{"collection":"mor","html_url":"https://unchartedknowledge.5gfusion.net/browse/mor/hou/hou04.htm","path":"mor/hou/hou04.htm","source_url":"https://sacred-texts.com/mor/hou/hou04.htm","text":"History of Utah, 1540-1886, by Hubert Howe Bancroft, [1889]\nFrancisco Vazquez De Coronado at C\u00edbola\u2014Expedition of Pedro De Tobar and Father Juan De Padilla\u2014They Hear of a Large River\u2014Garc\u00eda Lopez De C\u00e1rdenas Sent in Search of It\u2014The First Europeans to Approach Utah\u2014Route of C\u00e1rdenas\u2014Mythical Maps\u2014Part of the Northern Mystery\u2014Journey of Dominguez and Escalante\u2014the Course They Followed\u2014The Rivers They Crossed\u2014the Comanches\u2014Region of the Great Lakes\u2014Rivers Timpanogos, San Buenaventura, and Others\u2014the Country of the Yutas\u2014Route From Santa F\u00e9 to Monterey\u2014the Friars Talk of the Lake Country\u2014Return of the Spaniards to Zu\u00f1i and March to Santa F\u00e9.\nAs Francisco Vazquez de Coronado was journeying from Culiacan to the north and east in 1540, he rested at C\u00edbola, that is to say Zu\u00f1i, and while waiting for the main army to come forward, expeditions were sent out in various directions. One of these, consisting of twenty men under Pedro de Tobar, and attended by Father Juan de Padilla, proceeded north-westward, and after five days reached Tusayan, or the Moqui villages, which were quickly captured. Among other matters of interest, information was here given of a large river yet farther north, the people who lived upon its banks being likewise very large.\nReturning to C\u00edbola, Tobar reported what had been said concerning this river; whereupon Captain Garc\u00eda Lopez de C\u00e1rdenas was sent with twelve men to explore it, Pedro de Sotomayor accompanying to\nchronicle the expedition. Obtaining at Tusayan, where he was well received, guides and carriers, with an ample supply of provisions, C\u00e1rdenas marched for twenty days, probably in a north-westerly direction, 1\nthrough a desert country until he discovered the river, but from such high banks that he could not reach it. It was the river called the Tizon, and it flowed from the north-east toward the south-west. It seemed to the Spaniards when they first descried it that they were on mountains through which the river had cut\na chasm only a few feet wide, but which if they might believe the natives was half a league across. In vain for several days, with their faces toward the south and west, they sought to escape from the mountains that environed them, and descend to the river, for they were suffering from thirst. At length\none morning three of the lightest and most active of the party crept over the brink and descended until they were out of sight. They did not return till toward evening, when they reported their failure to reach the bottom, saying that the river, and distances and objects, were all much larger than they seemed to the beholder above, rocks apparently no higher than a man being in fact larger than the cathedral at\nClick to enlarge\nPROBABLE ROUTE OF C\u00c1RDENAS.\n[paragraph continues] Seville. Compelled by thirst they retired from the inhospitable stream, and finally returned to Tusayan and C\u00edbola.\nIt was not necessary in those days that a country should be discovered in order to be mapped; even now we dogmatize most about what we know least. It is a lonely sea indeed that cannot sport mermaids and monsters; it were a pity to have so broad an extent of land without a good wide sheet of water in it; so the Conibas Regio cum Vicinis Gentibvs shows a large lake, called Conibas, connecting by a very wide\nClick to enlarge\nMAP FROM MAGIN, 1611.\nriver apparently with a northern sea. I give herewith another map showing a lake large enough to swallow\n[paragraph continues] Utah and Idaho combined, and discharging its waters by two great rivers into the Pacific. This species of geography was doubtless entirely satisfactory to the wise men of this world until they came to know better about it. If the reader will look over the chapters on the Northern Mystery in my History of the\nClick to enlarge\nMAP BY JOHN HARRIS, 1705.\n[paragraph continues] Northwest Coast he may learn further of absurdities in map-making.\nA more extended and pronounced exploration was that of two Franciscan friars, one the visitador comisario\nof New Mexico, Francisco Atanasio Dominguez, and the other ministro doctrinero of Zu\u00f1i, Silvestre Velez de Escalante, who set out from Santa F\u00e9 July 29, 1776, for the purpose of discovering a direct route to Monterey, on the seaboard of Alta California. New Mexico had now been known nearly two and a half centuries; the city of Santa F\u00e9 had been founded over a century and a half, Monterey had been occupied since 1770, and yet there had been opened no direct route westward with the sea, communication between Mexico and Santa F\u00e9 being by land, the road following the Rio Grande. In his memorial of March 1773, while in Mexico, Father Jun\u00edpero Serra had urged that two expeditions be made, one from Sonora to California, which was carried out the following year by Captain Anza, and one froth New Mexico to the sea, which Dominguez and Escalante now proposed to undertake. Again in 1775 Anza made a similar journey, this time leaving at the junction of the Colorado and Gila Father Garc\u00e9s who ascended the former stream to the Mojave country, whence crossing to Mission San Gabriel he proceeded to the Tulare Valley. There he heard from the natives of a great river coming in from the east or northeast. 2 Indeed it was long the prevailing opinion that there existed such a stream in that vicinity. From the Tulare country Garc\u00e9s returned to San Gabriel and Mojave, and thence proceeded to the villages of the Moquis. From this place he probably wrote to Santa F\u00e9 concerning the rumor of this river; for all through the journey of Dominguez and Escalante they were in search of it. 3\nThe party consisted in all of nine persons. Besides the two priests there were Juan Pedro Cisneros, alcalde mayor of Zu\u00f1i, Bernardo Miera y Pacheco, capitan miliciano of Santa F\u00e9, and five soldiers. 4 Having implored divine protection, on the day before named they took the road to Abiqui\u00fa, passed on to the Rio Chama, and on the 5th of August reached a point called Nieves, on the San Juan River, three leagues below the junction of the Navajo. Thence they passed down the north bank of the San Juan, crossing the several branches, until on the 10th they found themselves on a branch of the Mancos, some distance from the San Juan, and beyond the line of the present state of Colorado. 5 The 12th they camped on the north bank of the Rio Dolores, in latitude 38\u00b0 13\u00b4, 6 and were there joined by two natives from Abiqui\u00fa, who had deserted their homes to follow the expedition. 7\nThey now followed the general course of the Dolores 8 until the 23d, when they left the San Pedro, which flows into the Dolores near La Sal, and crossed\nover north-east to Rio San Francisco, 9 and again to the Rio San Javier 10 on the 28th, their course being for some distance east of north.\nNot far from their path was a rancher\u00eda of Yutas, which the Spaniards visited, endeavoring to obtain guides to the land of the Timpanogos, Timpangotzis, or Lagunas, where they had been told to look for\nClick to enlarge\nESCALANTE'S ROUTE FROM SANTA F\u00c9 TO UTAH LAKE\n[paragraph continues] Pueblo towns. A Laguna guide was there, but the Yutas did all in their power to dissuade the explorers\nfrom proceeding, pretending ignorance of the country and danger from the Comanches. But the 3d of September saw them again on their way. Pursuing a north-west course, the second day they crossed and camped on the north bank of the Rio San Rafael, or Colorado, 11 in latitude 41\u00b0 4\u00b4. Their course thence was north-westerly, and on the 9th they crossed a river called San Clemente, 12 flowing west. Signs of buffaloes were abundant, and on the 11th they killed one. Two days afterward they crossed the Rio de San Buenaventura, 13 the boundary between the Yutas and the Comanches, in latitude 41\u00b0 19\u00b4, at a place which the priests call Santa Cruz. Here were six large black poplars, on one of which they left an inscription. After resting two days they took the course of the San Buenaventura south-west ten leagues, and from a hill saw the junction of the San Clemente. Descending a little farther they found a river flowing in from the west, following which they reached a branch the 17th, naming it the San Cosme. 14\nFrom this point they proceeded westward, following up the Uintah, across the Duchesne, and over the mountains, with no small difficulty, to a river which they called Pur\u00edsima, 15 and which they followed till on the 23d they came in sight of the lake which the natives called Timpanogos, but which is known now as Utah Lake.\nSeveral reasons combined to bring the Spaniards so far to the north of what would be a direct road\nfrom Santa F\u00e9 to Monterey. First, Escalante entertained a theory that a better route to the Pacific could be found northward than toward the south. Then there was always a fascination attending this region, with its great and perpetual Northern Mystery; perhaps the Arctic Ocean came down hereabout, or at least an arm of the Anian Strait might be found; nor were forgotten the rivers spoken of by different persons on different occasions as flowing hence into the Pacific. And last of all it may be that the rumor of Pueblo villages in this quarter carried the explorers further north than otherwise they would have gone.\nHowever this may have been, they were now of opinion that they had penetrated far enough in a northerly direction, and from this point must take a southerly course. There were here no town builders like the Moquis and Zu\u00f1is, as the priests had been led to suppose, but there were wild Indians, and the first they had seen in this vicinity. At first these savages manifested fear, but when assured that the strangers had not come to harm them, and were in no way leagued with the dreaded Comanches, they welcomed them kindly and gave them food. They were simple-minded and inoffensive, these native Yutas, very ready to guide the travellers whithersoever they would go; but they begged them to return and establish a mission in their midst; in token of which, and of their desire to adopt the Christian faith, they gave the priests a kind of hieroglyphic painting on deerskin. 16\nThen the Spaniards talk of the country, and of the people about them. They are in the valley and by the lake of Nuestra Se\u00f1ora de la Merced de los\nClick to enlarge\nTIMPANOGOS VALLEY.\n[paragraph continues] Timpanogos, 17 and north of the river San Buenaventura are the mountains which they have just crossed, extending north-east and south-west some seventy leagues, and having a width of forty leagues. From the surrounding heights flow four rivers of medium size, discharging their waters into the lake, where thrive fish and wild fowl. The valley which surrounds this lake extends from south-east to north-west sixteen Spanish leagues; it is quite level, and has a width of ten or twelve leagues. Except the marshes on the lake borders the land is good for agriculture. Of the four rivers which water the valley the southernmost, which they call Aguas Calientes, passes through rich meadows capable of supporting two large towns. The second, three leagues from the first, flowing northerly, and which they call the San Nicol\u00e1s, fertilizes enough good land to support one large town or two smaller ones. Before reaching the lake it divides into two branches, on the banks of which grow tall poplars and alders. The third river, which is three and a half leagues to the north-east, and which they call the San Antonio de Padua, carries more water than the others, and from its rich banks, which would easily support three large towns, spring groves of larger trees. Santa Ana, they call the fourth river, which is north-west of the San Antonio, and not inferior to the others 18\u2014so they are told, for they do not visit it. Besides these rivers, there are good springs of water both on plain and mountain-side; pasture lands are abundant, and in parts the fertile soil yields such quantities of flax and hemp that it seems they must have been planted there by man. On the San Buenaventura the Spaniards had been\ntroubled by the cold; but here the climate is so delightful, the air so balmy, that it is a pleasure to breathe it, by day and by night. In the vicinity are other valleys equally delightful. Besides the products of the lake the Yutas hunt hares, and gather seeds from which they make atole. They might capture some buffaloes in the north-north-west but for the troublesome Comanches. 19 They dwell in huts of osier, of which, likewise, many of their utensils are made; some of them wear clothes, the best of which are of the skins of rabbits and antelopes. There are in this region many people, of whom he who would know more may consult the Native Races.\nThe Spaniards are further told by the Yutas of a large and wonderful body of water toward the northwest, and this is what Father Escalante reports of it. \"The other lake, with which this communicates,\" he says, \"occupies, as they told us, many leagues, and its waters are injurious and extremely salt; because the Timpanois 20 assure us that he who wets any part of his body with this water, immediately feels an itching in the wet part. We were told that in the circuit of this lake there live a numerous and quiet nation, called Puaguampe, which means in our language Sorcerers; they speak the Comanche language, feed on herbs, and drink from various fountains or springs of good water which are about the lake; and they have their little houses of grass and earth, which latter forms the roof. They are not, so they intimated, enemies of those living on this lake, but since a certain time when the people there approached and killed a man, they do not consider them as neutral as before.\n[paragraph continues] On this occasion they entered by the last pass of the Sierra Blanca de los Timpanogos, which is the same in which they are, by a route north one fourth north-west, and by that same way they say the Comanches make their raids, which do not seem to be very frequent.\" 21\nContinuing their journey the 26th of September with two guides, the Spaniards bend their course south-westwardly in the direction of Monterey, through the Sevier lake and river region, which stream they call Santa Isabel. The 8th of October they are in latitude 38\u00b0 3\u00b4 with Beaver River behind them. Passing on into what is now Escalante Valley they question the natives regarding a route to the sea, and as to their knowledge of Spaniards in that direction. The savages know nothing of either. Meanwhile winter is approaching, provisions are becoming low, the way to the sea must be long and difficult; therefore the friars resolve to abandon the attempt; they will continue south, turning perhaps to the east until they come to the Colorado, when they will return to Santa F\u00e9 by way of the Moqui and Zu\u00f1i villages.\nSome of the party object to this abandonment of\npurpose. They have come far; they can surely find a way: why turn back? To determine the matter prayers are made and lots cast, the decision being against Monterey. As they turn eastward, the 11th, in latitude 36\u00b0 52\u00b4, they are obliged to make bread of seeds purchased from the natives, for their supplies are wholly exhausted. Reaching the Colorado the 26th, twelve days are passed in searching for a ford, which they find at last in latitude 37\u00b0, the line dividing Utah from Arizona. Their course is now south-east, and the 16th of November they reach Oraybi, as they call the residence of the Moquis. There they are kindly received; but when for food and shelter they offer presents and religious instruction the natives refuse. Next day the Spaniards visit Xongopabi, and the day after Gualpi, at which latter place they call a meeting and propose to the natives temporal and spiritual submission. The Moquis will be friendly they say, but the further proposals they promptly decline. Thereupon the friars continue their way, reaching Zu\u00f1i November 24th and Santa F\u00e9 the 2d of January 1777. 22\n2:1 I say probably, though in my own mind there is little doubt. The Spaniards were exploring northward. They had lately traversed the region to their south-west, and instead of wishing to retrace their steps they would be likely to keep up well away from their former track. It is true that one narrative gives the direction as west; but then the same writer places Tusan, or Tusayan, west of C\u00edbola, which if the latter be Zu\u00f1i, and the former Moqui, is incorrect. Then, if their direction from the Moqui towns was the same as this writer declares it to have been in travelling to that place, the Spaniards at this time certainly struck the Colorado within the limits of the present Utah. Escalante, Carta de 28 Oct. 1775, MS., placed Moqui west of Zu\u00f1i, but a little north of west, with the Yutas their neighbor on the north. It is sufficiently plain that C\u00edbola was Zu\u00f1i, and Tusayan Moqui, and as a matter of fact the latter is in a north-westerly direction from the former. That they went due west and crossed the Little Colorado without any mention of that stream is not likely; because, first, it is not twenty days distant from the Moquis, and the stream when reached does not answer to their description. It was the great river they wished to find, and a northwest course would be the most direct. Further than this, it is stated plainly that the point at which they discovered the river was much nearer its source than where the Spaniards had previously seen it. Upon the direction then taken hangs the question as to the first Europeans to enter Utah. I deem the matter of sufficient importance to give both the originals and the translations of two of the most complete and reliable narratives of the expedition. The first and fullest we find in the Relation de Casta\u00f1eda of Coronado's expedition, Ternaux-Compans, s\u00e9rie i. tom. ix. 61-5, which reads as follows:\n'Comme don P\u00e9dro de Tobar avait rempli sa mission, il revint sur ses pas et rendit compte au g\u00e9n\u00e9ral de ce qu\u2019il avait vu. Celui-ci fit partir sur-le-champ don Garci-Lopez de Cardenas et douze autres personnes pour aller visiter cette rivi\u00e8re; cet officier fur tr\u00e8s-bien re\u00e7u et parfaitement trait\u00e9 par les indiens de Tusayan, qui lui donn\u00e8rent des guides pour continuer sa route. Nos soldats partirent charg\u00e9s de vivres, les indiens les ayant avertis qu\u2019il fallait traverser un d\u00e9sert de vingt journ\u00e9es de long avant d\u2019entrer dans un pays habit\u00e9. Apr\u00e8s ces vingt journ\u00e9es de marche ils arriv\u00e9rent en effet \u00e1 cette rivi\u00e8re, dent les bords sont tellement \u00e9lev\u00e9s qu\u2019ils croyaient \u00eatre \u00e1 trois ou quatre lieues en l\u2019air. Le pays est couvert de pins bas et rabougris; il est expos\u00e9 au nord, et le froid y est si violent, que, quoique l\u2019on f\u00fbt en \u00e9t\u00e9, ou pouvait \u00e1 peine le supporter. Les Espagnols march\u00e8rent pendant trois jours le long de ces montagnes, esp\u00e9rant toujours trouver une descente pour arriver ne paraissait pas avoir plus d\u2019une brasse de large, la rivi\u00e8re qui, d\u2019en haut, et qui, selon les Indiens, avait plus d\u2019une demi-lieue; mais il fut impossible de s\u2019y rendre. \u00e9tant parvenus deux ou trois jours apr\u00e8s dans un endroit o\u00f9 la descente leur parut plus facile, le capitaine Melgosa, Juan Galeras et un soldat qui \u00e9taient les plus l\u00e9gers de la bande, r\u00e9solurent de faire une tentative. Ils descendirent jusqu\u2019\u00e1 ce que ceux qui \u00e9taient rest\u00e9s en haut les eussent perdus de ven. Ils revinrent vers les quatre heures du soir, disant qu\u2019ils avaient trouv\u00e9 tant des difficult\u00e9s, qu\u2019ils n\u2019avaient pu arriver jusqu\u2019en bas; car ce qui d\u2019en haut semblait facile, ne l\u2019\u00e9tait pas du tout quand en approchait. Ils ajout\u00e8rent qu\u2019ils \u00e9taient parvenus \u00e1 environ un tiers de la descente, et que de l\u00e0, la rivi\u00e8re paraissait d\u00e9j\u00e0 tr\u00e8s grande, ce qui confirmait ce que les indiens avaient dit. Ils assur\u00e8rent que quelques rochers que l\u2019on voyait d\u2019en haut, et qui paraissait \u00e0 peine de la hauteur d\u2019un homme \u00e9taient plus hauts que la tour de la cath\u00e9drale de S\u00e9ville. Les Espagnols cess\u00e8rent p. 3 de suivre les rochers qui bordent la rivi\u00e8re, parce qu\u2019on y manquait d\u2019eau. Jusque-l\u00e0 ils avaient \u00e9t\u00e9 oblig\u00e9s chaque soir de s\u2019avancer une lieue ou deux dans l\u2019int\u00e9rieur pour en trouver. Quand ils eurent march\u00e9 pendant trois ou passaient cette route, ils emmenaient avec eux des femmes charg\u00e9es de calebasses remplies d\u2019eau, et qu\u2019ils en enterraient une partie pour les retrouver au retour; que d\u2019ailleurs ils parcouraient en un jour autant de chemin que les Espagnols en deux. Cette rivi\u00e8re \u00e9tait celle del Tizon. On arriva beaucoup plus pr\u00e8s de sa source que de l\u2019endroit o\u00fa Melchior Diaz et ses gens l\u2019avaient travers\u00e9e, et l\u2019on sut plus tard que les Indiens dont on avant parl\u00e9 taitent de la m\u00eame nation que ceux que Diaz avait vus. Les Espagnols revinrent donc sur leurs pas, et cette exp\u00e9dition n\u2019eut pas d\u2019autre r\u00e9sultat. Pendant la marche, ils arriv\u00e8rent \u00e0 une cascade qui tombait d\u2019un rocher. Los guides dirent que les cristaux blancs qui pendaient \u00e0 l\u2019entour \u00e9taient du sel. On en recueillit une quantit\u00e9 que l\u2019on emports, et qu\u2019on distribua \u00e0 C\u00edbola, o\u00f9 l\u2019on rendit compte par crit au g\u00e9n\u00e9ral de tout ce que l\u2019on avait vu. Garci-Lopez avait emmen\u00e9 avec lui un certain P\u00e9dro de Sotomayor, qui \u00e9tait chroniqueur de l\u2019exp\u00e9dition. Tous les villages de cette province sont rest\u00e9s nos alli\u00e9s, mais on ne les a pas visit\u00e9s depuis, et l\u2019on n\u2019a tent\u00e9 aucune d\u00e9couverte de ce c\u00f4t\u00e9.'\nAs soon as Don P\u00e9dro de Tobar had fulfilled his mission, he returned and gave the general an account of what he had seen. The latter immediately ordered Don Garci-Lopez de C\u00e1rdenas, and 12 other persons, to go and visit that river; this officer was well received and politely treated by the Indians of Tusayan, who furnished him with guides to continue his journey. Our soldiers departed loaded with provisions, the Indians having notified them that it was necessary to travel 20 days through a desert before entering any inhabited country. After this 20 days march, they arrived at that river whose banks are of such a height that it seemed to them that they were three or four leagues up in the air. The country is covered with low and stunted pines, exposed to the north, and the cold is so violent that, although it was summer, one could hardly endure it. The Spaniards during three days skirted those mountains, always in the hope of finding a descent to reach the river, which from above appeared to be no more than a fathom in width, and which, according to the Indians, was more than half a league wide; but all their efforts were vain. Two or three days later, they arrived at a place where the descent seemed easier; Captain Melgosa Juan Galeras and a soldier who were the lightest men of the band, resolved to make an attmept. They descended until those who had remained on the top had lost sight of them. They returned at about four o'clock in the afternoon, saying they had found so many difficulties that they could not reach the bottom; for, what seemed easy from above was not at all so when approaching the water. They added that they came down about one third of the descent, and that even from there the river seemed very large. This statement confirmed what the Indians had said. The three men affirmed that some rocks seen from above and which appeared to he of the height of a man, were higher than the tower of the cathedral of Seville. The Spaniards stopped following the rocks that bordered the river on account of the lack of water. Until then, they had been obliged to advance one or two leagues in the interior to find p. 4 some. When they had marched during three or four days, the guides declared to them that it was impossible to go further, that water would not be found before four days; that when the Indians travelled on this road, they took with them women who carried calabashes filled with water, and they buried a certain part, so that they might find it when returning; and besides they made in one day as many miles as the Spaniards would in two. This was the river del Tizon. They arrived much nearer to its source than the place Where Melchor Diaz anti his people had crossed, and it was known later that the Indians spoken of belonged to the same nation as those seen by Diaz. The Spaniards therefore came back, and the expedition had no other result. While marching, they arrived at a cascade falling from a rock. The guides affirmed that the white crystals hanging around were salt. A quantity of it was gathered, carried away, and distributed at C\u00edbola, where a written account of all that had been seen was sent to the general. Garci-Lopez had taken with him a certain Pedro de Sotomayor, who was the chronicler of the expedition. All the villages of this province have remained our allies, but they have not been visited since, and no attempt at discovery has been made in that direction.\nThe other is from a relation by an unknown author, found in the archives of the Indies, and printed in Pacheco and C\u00e1rdenas, Col. Doc., xiv. 321-3, under title of Relacion del suceso de la Jornada que Francisco Vazquez hizo en el descubrimiento de C\u00edbola, and from which I give the extract covering the same incident:\n'Vuelto D. Pedro de Tobar, \u00e9 dada relacion de aque\u00f1os pueblos, luego despach\u00f3 \u00e1 D. Garc\u00eda Lopez de C\u00e1rdenas, maestre de campo, por el mesmo camino que habia venido D. Pedro, \u00e9 que pasase de aquella provincia de Tuzan, al Poniente, \u00e9 para ida \u00e9 vuelta de la jornada \u00e9 descobrimiento, le se\u00f1alo ochenta dias de t\u00e9rmino de ida \u00e9 vuelta, el qual fu\u00e9 echado adelante de Tuzan con guias de los naturales que decian que habia adelante, poblado, aunque lejos, andadas cincuenta leguas de Tuzan al Poniente, \u00e9 ochenta de C\u00edbola, hall\u00f3 una barranca de un rio que fu\u00e9 imposible por una parte ni otra hallarle baxada para caballo, ni aun para pi\u00e9, sino por una parte muy traba-xosa, por donde tenia casi dos leguas de baxada. Estaba la barranca tan scantillada de pe\u00f1as, que apenas podian ver el rio, el cual, aunque es segun dicen, tanto \u00f3 mucho mayor que el de Sevilla, de arriba aparescia un arroyo; pot manera que aunque con harta diligencia se busc\u00f3 pasada, \u00e9 por muchas partes no se halla, en la cual estuvieron artos dias con mucha necesidad de agua, que no la hallaban, \u00e9 la del rio no se podian aprovechar della aunque la vian; \u00e9 \u00e1 esta causa le fu\u00e9 forzado \u00e1 don Garcia Lopez volverse \u00e1 donde hallaron; este rio venia del Nordeste \u00e9 volvia al Sur Sudueste, por manera que sin falta ninguna es aquel donde Ileg\u00f3 Melchor Diaz.'\nDon Pedro de Tobar having returned, and having made a report concerning those towns, D. Garc\u00eda Lopez de C\u00e1rdenas, maestre de campo, was ordered to take the same route by which Don Pedro had come, and to go on from the province of Tuzan to the westward. He was given 80 days in which to make the journey, from his departure until his return. He went on beyond Tuzan, accompanied by Indian guides, who told him that farther on there was a settlement. Having gone 50 leagues to the westward of Tuzan, and 80 from C\u00edbola, he came to the ca\u00f1on of a river adown the side of which there was no descent practicable for home, nor even for those on foot, except p. 5 by a way full of difficulties, and nearly two leagues in length. The side of the ca\u00f1on was of rock so steep that the river was barely discernible, although, according to report, it is as great as the river of Seville, or greater; and from above appeared a brook. During many days, and in many places, a way by which to pass the river was sought in vain. During this time there was much suffering from a lack of water, for although that of the river was in view, it was unattainable. For this reason Don Garc\u00eda Lopez was forced to return. This river comes from the north-east, and makes a bend to the south-south-eastward; hence, beyond a doubt, it must be that reached by Melchor Diaz.\nThus the reader will be able to determine the matter for himself as clearly as may be. For details on Coronado's expedition see the following authorities, p. 6 though comparatively few of them make mention of the adventures of Captain C\u00e1rdenas on the Colorado: Ramusio, Viaggi, iii. 359-63; Hakluyt's Voy., iii. 373-9; Mota-Padilla, Conq. N. Gal., iii. 14, 158-69; Torquemada, i. 609-10; Herrera, dec. vi. lib. ix. cap. xi.-xii.; Beaumont, Hist. Mich., MS., 407-22, 482-546, 624-5; Oviedo, iv. 19; Villagrd, Hist. N. Mex., 19 et seq.; Gomara, Hist. Ind., 272-4; Bernal Diaz, Hist. Verdad., 235; Benzoni, Hist. Mundo Nuovo, 107; Ribas, Hist. Triumphos, 26-7; Venegas, Not. Cal., i. 167-9; Clavigero, Storia Cal., 153; Alegre, Hist. Comp. Jesus, i. 233-8; Salmeron, in Doc. Hist. Mex., 3d ser. pt. iv. 7-9; Noticias, in Id., 671-2; Cavo, Tres Siglos, i. 127-9; Lorenzana, in Cort\u00e9s, Hist. Mex., 325. These might be followed by a long list of modem writers, for which I will refer the reader to Hist. North Mexican States, this series.\n8:2 On Father Font's map, 1777, are laid down two rivers entering the region of the Tulare lakes from the north-east, one the Rio de San Phelipe, and the other called the Rio de que se Viene Noticia por el P. Garces. See Font's Journal, MS.; Serra, Memorial, March 1773, MS.; Garc\u00e9s, Diario, 246-348; Forbes' Hist. Cal., 157-62; Arch. Cal., Prov. Rec., MS., i. 47-8, vi. 59; Palou, Not., ii. 281-2; Hist. Cal.; Hist..New Mew.; Hist. North Mex. States, this series.\n8:3 Probably it was the San Joaquin, or the Sacramento, of which they heard. Concerning a route from New Mexico to California Humboldt says: 'En considerant les voyages hardis des premiers conquerans espagnols au p. 9 Mexique, an P\u00e9rou, et sur la rivi\u00e8re des Amazones, on est \u00e9tonn\u00e9 de voir que depuis deux si\u00e8clcs cette m\u00eame nation n\u2019a pas su trouver un chemin de terre dans la Nouvelle-Espagne, depuis Taos au port de Monterey.' Essai Pol., i. 317.\n9:4 Don Joaquin Lain, vecino de la misma villa, Lorenzo Olivares de la villa del Paso, Lucrecio Mu\u00f1iz, Andr\u00e9s Mu\u00f1iz, Juan de Aguilar y Simon Lucero.' Diario, in Doc. Hist. Mex., ser. ii. tom. i. 378.\n9:5 At the beginning of the journey their route was identical with what was later known as the old Spanish trail from Santa F\u00e9 to Los Angeles. Their course was at first north-west, but shortly after passing Abiqui\u00fa it pointed due north into Colorado, then west, and again north-west into Utah, being about the same as was later called the old Spanish trail from Santa F\u00e9 to Great Salt Lake. Captain J. N. Macomb of the topographical engineers has surveyed and mapped essentially the same trail.\n9:6 Probably not so far north by some 40\u00b4.\n9:7 Esta tarde nos alcanzaron un coyote y un gen\u00edzaro de Abiqui\u00fa, nombrados el primero Felipe y el segundo Juan Domingo; por vagar entre los gentiles, se huyeron sin permiso de sus superiores del dicho pueblo, pretestando querer acompa\u00f1arnos. No necesit\u00e1bamos de ellos; mas por evitar las culpas, que \u00f3 por su ignorancia \u00f3 por su malicia podian cometer andando mas tiempo solos entre los yutas, si intentabamos que regresasen, los admitimos por compa\u00f1eros.' Disrio, Doc. Hist. Mex., ser. ii. tom. i. 392.\n9:8 These streams are doubtless those emptying into the Colorado not far from its junction with the Bunkara: Latitude 39\u00b0 13\u00b4 is here given, but that must be too high. Philip Harry, in Simpson's Explor., 490, says that up to the point first touched on the Dolores the priests' path and Macomb's survey are identical, but that they here diverge.\n10:9 An affluent of the San Javier, or Grand River.\n10:10 Called by the Yutas Tomiche; to-day Grand River. It may here be observed that the route toward this region had been visited by Spaniards before, notably by Juan Mar\u00eda de Ribera in 1761, and Spanish names had been given to places, though the present Utah was probably not entered by him. Escalante states that the San Javier is formed by four small streams coming in above the point at which he crossed, and these, says Harry, Simpson's Explor., 490, correspond 'remarkably with the Uncompagre River, Grand River, Smith's Fork, and another large fork\u2026It seems evident that after crossing the San Xavier he follows up stream a different fork from what we call Grand River, but which fork he calls the main river, or San Xavier.' Gunnison maps his explorations, showing the mouth of this last named stream. In Simpson's Explor., 489, is given a map of the present expedition, but it does not conform in every particular to Escalante's text.\n11:11 Grand River; but the latitude given was about 1\u00b0 30\u00b4 too high.\n11:12 White River, the point of crossing being near the Utah line.\n11:13 Green River. The latitude given is at least 50\u00b4 too high. The crossing was above the junctions of White River and the Uintah with Green River. See Rep. Fr. Alonso de Posada, custodio de N. Mex., in Doc. Hist. Mex., i. 439.\n11:14 This is the north branch of the Uintah. Indeed the narrative of the explorers makes their route in this vicinity unmistakable.\n11:15 Now the Timpanogos. 'Proseguimos al noroeste media legua, pasamos \u00e1 la otra bands del rio, subimos una corta cuesta y divisamos la laguna y dila-tado valle de Nuestra Se\u00f1ora de la Merced de los Timpanogotzis\u2014as\u00ed lo nom-bramos desde aqu\u00ed.' Diario, Doc. Hist. Mex., s\u00e9rie ii. tom. i. 454.\n12:16 The Spaniards asked from them some token to show that they wished them to return, and the day after they brought them one; 'pero al traer la se\u00f1a vi\u00f3 un compa\u00f1ero, que no sabia el \u00f3rden dado, \u00e1 las figuras de ella, y rnostr\u00e1ndole la cruz del rosario, les di\u00f3 \u00e1 entender, que la pintasen sobre una de las figuras, y entonces la volvieron \u00e1 llevar, y sobre cada una pintaron una cruz peque\u00f1a; lo demas qued\u00f3 como antes y nos la dieron diciendo que la figura que per uno y otro lade tenia mas almagre, \u00f3 como ellos decian, sangre, representaba al capitan mayor, porque en las batalias con los cumanches habia recibido mas heridas: las otras dos que no estaban tan ensangren-tadas, a los otros dos capitanes inferiores al primero, y la que no tenia sangre ninguna, \u00e1 uno que no era capitan de guerra, pero era, do autoridad entre p. 13 ellos. Estas cuatro figuras de hombres estaban rudamente pintadas con tierra y almagre en un corto pedazo de gamuza.' Diario, Doc. Hist. Mex.. s\u00e9rie ii. tom. i. 462-3.\n14:17 Or, as it was also called, Timpagtzis, Timpanoautzis, \u00f3 Come Pescado. Doc. Hist. Mex., s\u00e9rie ii. tom. i. 464.\n14:18 There is no difficulty in recognizing these land-marks, the Uintah Mountains, the San Buenaventura, or Green River; and in the four streams of the valley, their Aguas Calientes is Currant Creek; the second, their San Nicol\u00e1s, though more than three leagues from the first, and not corresponding in every other particular, is the Spanish River; the San Antonio is the Provo; and the Santa Aria, the River Jordan.\n15:19 This is directly opposite the direction in which we would expect to find the Comanches of to-day; but the Utes applied the term comanche to all hostile Indians. Buffaloes were common in aboriginal times in Cache and Powder River valleys as well as in eastern Oregon and Bois\u00e9 valley.\n15:20 Yet another form for the name Timpanogos, as indeed before the end of the following page we have 'Timpanosis,' 'Timpanogotzis,' and 'Timpanogo.' See note 17 this chapter. On Froisett's map, published at Salt Lake City in 1875, is the 'Provo, or Timponayas' river.\n16:21 As this is the first account we have of the Great Salt Lake and its people I will give the original entire: 'La otra laguna con quien esta se cominica, ocupa, segun nos informaron, muchas leguas y sus aguas son nocivas \u00f3 estre-madamente saladas; porque nos aseguran los timpanois que el que se mojaba alguna parle del cuerpo con ellas, al punto sentia mucha comenzon en la parte mojada. En su circuito nos dijeron habita una nacion numerosa y quieta, que se nombra Puaguampe, que en nuestro vulgar dice hechiceros; la cual usa el idioma cumanche; se alimenta de las yervas, bebe de varias fuentes \u00fa ojos de buena agua, qne est\u00e1n en el circuito de la laguna, y tienen sus casitas de zacate y tierra, que era et techo de ellas. No son enemigos de los lagunas, segun insinuaron, pero desde cierta ocasion que se acercaron y les mataron un hombre, no los tienen por tan neutrales como antes. En esta ocasion entraron por la puerta final de la Sierra Blanca de los Timpanosis, que es la misma en que est\u00e1n, por el norte cuarta al noroeste, y por aqu\u00ed mismo dicen hacer sus entradas los cumanches, las que no parecieron ser muy frecuentes.' Diario, Doc. Hist. Mex., s\u00e9rie ii. tom. i. 468.\nMr Harry is evidently not very thoroughly versed in the Spanish language, or his manuscript copy of Escalante's journey is defective. For example he translates echizeros\u2014which being old Spanish he could not find in his modern dictionary\u2014'throwers or slingers' when the word \"witches,' or rather 'sorcerers' is clearly implied. Again he queries sacate, not knowing its meaning\u2014a common enough Mexican word, formerly written zacate, and signifying hay or grass. For further inaccuracies see his summary in Simpson's Explor., 494. Warren, Pacific Railroad Report, xi. 35, examined the same copy of Escalante's narrative, then in the Peter Force library, which was used by Harry.\n17:22 The journey into Utah of Dominguez and Escalante, as given in Doc. Hist. Mex., s\u00e9rie ii. tom. i. 375-558, under title of Diario y derrotero de los R. R. PP. Fr. Francisco Atanasio Dominguez y Fr. Silvestre Velez de Escalante, para descubrir el camino desde el Presidio de Santa F\u00e9 del Nuevo Mexico, al de Monterey, en la California Septentrional, is full and clear as to route and information regarding the country and its inhabitants. As must be expected in all such narratives it is tull of trivial detail which is tiresome, but which we can readily excuse for the worth of the remainder. The priests were close and intelligent observers, and have much to say regarding configuration, soil, climate, plants, minerals, animals, and people. A summary is given in Simpson's Explor., app. R by Philip Harry, from a manuscript copy of the original in the archives in the city of Mexico which answers the purpose therein required, but is not sufficiently reliable or exact for historical purposes. The map accompanying the summary is better, being for the most part correct. Of the two padres and what riley saw Humboldt says, Essai Pol.: 'Ce terrain est la continuation de la Cordill\u00e8re des Gru\u00ebs, qui se prolonge vers la Sierra Verde et vers le lac de Timpanogos, c\u00e9l\u00e8bre dans l'histoire mexicaine. Le Rio S. Rafa\u00ebl et le Rio S. Xavier sont les sources principales du fleuve Zaguananas, qui, avec le Rio de Nabajoa, forme le Rio Colorado: ce dernir a son embouchure dans le golfe de Californie. Ces r\u00e9gions abondantes en sel gemme out \u00e9t\u00e9 examinees, en 1777, par deux voyageurs remplis de z\u00e9le et d'intr\u00e9pidit\u00e9, moines de l'order de S. Francois, le p\u00e8re Escalante et le pere Antonio Velez.' From the last clause it is clear that Humboldt was confused as to names, Velez and Escalante belonging to the same person. Simpson, Explor., 13, enters upon a long dissertation over a simple and very transparent mistake. See also Hist. North Mex. States; Hist. New Mex.; and Hist. Cal., this series.","title":"History of Utah, 1540-1886: Chapter I. Discoveries of the Spaniards. 1540-1777.","type":"page"}