{"collection":"myth-cosmogony","full_text_available":true,"graph_url":"https://unchartedknowledge.5gfusion.net/v2/api/page/gutenberg_22056/graph","html_url":"https://unchartedknowledge.5gfusion.net/v2/page/gutenberg_22056","id":"gutenberg_22056","license":"Public Domain (US)","rights_basis":"gutenberg_metadata_copyright_false","source":"gutenberg","source_url":"https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/22056","summary":null,"tags":["Category: Mythology, Legends & Folklore","Category: Nature/Gardening/Animals","Category: Poetry","Category: Travel Writing","Rainier, Mount (Wash.)"],"text":"Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Christine P. Travers and the\nOnline Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net\n\n\n\n\n\n[Transcriber's note: Obvious printer's errors have been corrected,\nall other inconsistencies are as in the original. Author's spelling\nhas been maintained.\n\nProbable typo:\nPages named by the author are under the format (p. xx).\nOriginal pagination of the book have been kept under the\nformat {p.xxx}.\n\nMissing page numbers correspond to blank pages.\n\nPage numbers corresponding to full page illustrations\n(which have been inserted in the caption of the illustration)\nmay seem out of order; the illustration having been moved out\nof the paragraph.\n\nThe illustrations of the page 31 and 89 share their captions\nwith the illustration above them.]\n\n\n\n\n                         THE MOUNTAIN\n                        THAT WAS \"GOD\"\n\n\n               BEING A LITTLE BOOK ABOUT THE GREAT\n              PEAK WHICH THE INDIANS NAMED \"TACOMA\"\n             BUT WHICH IS OFFICIALLY CALLED \"RAINIER\"\n\n\n                     By JOHN H. WILLIAMS\n\n\n             _O, rarest miracle of mountain heights,\n             Thou hast the sky for thy imperial dome,\n             And dwell'st among the stars all days and nights,\n             In the far heavens familiarly at home._\n                  --William Hillis Wynn: \"Mt. Tacoma; an Apotheosis.\"\n\n\n\n\n               Second Edition revised and greatly\n               enlarged, with 190 illustrations,\n               including eight colored halftones.\n\n\n\n\n                    TACOMA: JOHN H. WILLIAMS\n             NEW YORK: G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS: LONDON\n                            1911\n\n\n\n\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1905, By Kiser Photo Co.\nGreat Crevasses in the upper part of Cowlitz Glacier.]\n\n\n\n\nCopyright, 1910, 1911, by John H. Williams.\n\n\n{p.007}\n[Illustration: On the summit of Eagle Rock in winter.\nBoys looking over an 800-foot precipice.]\n\n\n\n\nFOREWORD.\n\n\nEvery summer there is demand for illustrated literature describing the\nmountain variously called \"Rainier\" or \"Tacoma.\" Hitherto, we have had\nonly small collections of pictures, without text, and confined to the\nfamiliar south and southwest sides.\n\nThe little book which I now offer aims to show the grandest and most\naccessible of our extinct volcanoes from all points of view. Like the\nglacial rivers, its text will be found a narrow stream flowing swiftly\namidst great mountain scenery. Its abundant illustrations cover not\nonly the giants' fairyland south of the peak, but also the equally\nstupendous scenes that await the adventurer who penetrates the harder\ntrails and climbs the greater glaciers of the north and east slopes.\n* * * *\n\nThe title adopted for the book has reference, of course, to the Indian\nnature worship, of which something is said in the opening chapter.\nBoth the title and a small part of the matter are reprinted from an\narticle which I contributed last year to the _New York Evening Post_.\nAttention is called to the tangle in the names of glaciers and the\nneed of a definitive nomenclature. As to the name of the Mountain\nitself, that famous bone of contention between two cities, I greatly\nprefer \"Tacoma,\" one of the several authentic forms of the Indian name\nused by different tribes; but I believe that \"Tahoma,\" proposed by the\nRotary Club of Seattle, would be a justifiable compromise, and satisfy\nnearly everybody. Its adoption would free our national map from one\nmore of its meaningless names--the name, in this case, of an\nundistinguished foreign naval officer whose only connection with our\nhistory is the fact that he fought against us during the American\nRevolution. Incidentally, it would also free me from the need of an\napology for using the hybrid \"Rainier-Tacoma\"! * * * Many of the\nillustrations show wide reaches of wonderful country, and their\ndetails may well be studied with a reading glass.\n\nI am much indebted to the librarians and their courteous assistants at\nthe Seattle and Tacoma public libraries; also to Prof. Flett for his\ninteresting account of the flora of the National Park; to Mr. Eugene\nRicksecker, of the United States Engineer Corps, for permission to\nreproduce his new map of the Park, now printed for the first time;\nand, most of all, to the photographers, both professional and amateur.\nIn the table of illustrations, credit is given the maker of each\nphotograph. The book is sent out in the hope of promoting a wider\nknowledge of our country's noblest landmark. May it lead many of its\nreaders to delightful days of recreation and adventure.\n\n  Tacoma, June 1, 1910.                      J. H. W.\n\nSecond Edition.--The text has been carefully revised, much new matter\nadded, and the information for tourists brought to date. The\nillustrations have been rearranged, and more {p.008} than fifty new\nones included. Views of the west and south sides, mainly, occupy the\nfirst half of the book, while the later pages carry the reader east\nand north from the Nisqually country.\n\nNearly five thousand negatives and photographs have now been examined\nin selecting copy for the engravers. In the table of illustrations I\nam glad to place the names of several expert photographers in\nPortland, San Francisco, Pasadena and Boston. Their pictures, with\nother new ones obtained from photographers already represented, make\nthis edition much more complete. For the convenience of tourists, as\nwell as of persons unable to visit the Mountain but wishing to know\nits features, I have numbered the landmarks on three of the larger\nviews, giving a key in the underlines. If this somewhat mars the\nbeauty of these pictures, it gives them added value as maps of the\nareas shown. In renewing my acknowledgments to the photographers, I\nmust mention especially Mr. Asahel Curtis of Seattle. The help and\ncounsel of this intrepid and public-spirited mountaineer have been\ninvaluable. Mr. A. H. Barnes, our Tacoma artist with camera and brush,\nwhose fine pictures fill many of the following pages, is about to\npublish a book of his mountain views, for which I bespeak liberal\npatronage.\n\nMy readers will join me in welcoming the beautiful verses written for\nthis edition by a gracious and brilliant woman whose poems have\ndelighted two generations of her countrymen.\n\nThanks are also due to Senator Wesley L. Jones, Superintendent E. S.\nHall of the Rainier National Park and the Secretary of the Interior\nfor official information; to Director George Otis Smith of the U. S.\nGeological Survey for such elevations as have thus far been\nestablished by the new survey of the Park; to A. C. McClurg & Co. of\nChicago, for permission to quote from Miss Judson's \"_Myths and\nLegends of the Pacific Northwest_\"; to Mr. Wallace Rice, literary\nexecutor of the late Francis Brooks, for leave to use Mr. Brooks's\nfine poem on the Mountain; to the librarians at the Public Library,\nthe John Crerar Library and the Newberry Library in Chicago, and to\nmany others who have aided me in obtaining photographs or data for\nthis edition.\n\nLovers of the mountains, in all parts of our country, will learn with\nregret that Congress, remains apparently indifferent to the\nconservation of the Rainier National Park and its complete opening to\nthe public. At the last session, a small appropriation was asked for\nmuch-needed trails through the forests and to the high interglacial\nplateaus, now inaccessible save to the toughest mountaineer; it being\nthe plan of the government engineers to build such trails on grades\nthat would permit their ultimate widening into permanent roads. Even\nthis was denied. The Idaho catastrophe last year again proved the\nnecessity of trails to the protection of great forests. With the\nloggers pushing their operations closer to the Park, its danger calls\nfor prompt action. Further, American tourists, it is said, annually\nspend $200,000,000 abroad, largely to view scenery surpassed in their\nown country. But Congress refuses the $50,000 asked, even refuses\n$25,000, toward making the grandest of our National Parks safe from\nforest fires and accessible to students and lovers of nature!\n\n  May 3, 1911.\n\n[Illustration: Winthrop Glacier and St. Elmo Pass, with Ruth Mountain\n(the Wedge) on right and Sour-Dough Mountains on left.]\n\n[Illustration: White Glacier and Little Tahoma, with eastern end of\nthe Tatoosh Range in distance.]\n\n\n\n\n{p.009} CONTENTS.\n\n                                                             Page.\n\n       The Mountain Speaks. Poem    Edna Dean Proctor          15\n\n    I. Mount \"Big Snow\" and Indian\n       Tradition                                               17\n\n   II. The National Park, its Roads\n        and its Needs                                          43\n\n  III. The Story of the Mountain                               77\n\n   IV. The Climbers                                           113\n\n    V. The Flora of the Mountain\n       Slopes                       Prof. J. B. Flett         129\n\n       Notes                                                  139\n\n\n\n\nILLUSTRATIONS.\n\n\nThe * indicates engravings made from copyrighted photographs. See\nnotice under the illustration.\n\n\nTHREE-COLOR HALFTONES.\n\n  Title.                            Photographer.            Page.\n\n  Spanaway Lake, with reflection\n    of the Mountain                 A. H. Barnes.       Frontispiece\n\n  View from Electron, showing west\n    side of the Mountain            Asahel Curtis              19\n\n  View northward from top of\n    Pinnacle Peak                   Dr. F. A. Scott            46\n\n  Looking Northeast from slope\n    of Pinnacle Peak                Dr. F. A. Scott            47\n\n  * Ice Cave, Paradise Glacier      A. H. Barnes               73\n\n  * Spray Park, from Fay Peak       W. P. Romans               92\n\n  Crevasse in Carbon Glacier        Asahel Curtis             109\n\n  North Mowich Glacier and the\n    Mountain in a storm             George V. Caesar          128\n\n\nONE-COLOR HALFTONES.\n\n  * Great crevasses in upper part\n    of Cowlitz Glacier              Kiser Photo Co.             6\n\n  On the summit of Eagle Rock in\n    winter                          George V. Caesar            7\n\n  Winthrop Glacier and St. Elmo\n    Pass                            Asahel Curtis               8\n\n  White Glacier and Little\n    Tahoma                          Asahel Curtis               9\n\n  White River Canyon, from\n    moraine of White Glacier        Dr. F. A. Scott            12\n\n  Telephoto view from near Electron,\n    showing plateau on the summit   Asahel Curtis              13\n\n  View of the Mountain from Fox\n    Island                          Charles Bedford            14\n\n  * The most kingly of American\n    mountains                       Romans Photographic Co.    16\n\n  Party of climbers on Winthrop\n    Glacier                         Asahel Curtis              17\n\n  Ice Terraces, South Tahoma\n    Glacier                         Rodney L. Glisan           17\n\n  Mineral Lake and the Mountain     A. H. Denman               18\n\n  Storm King Peak and Mineral\n    Lake                            A. H. Barnes               18\n\n  Nisqually Canyon                  Kiser Photo Co.            21\n\n  * North Peak, and South Mowich\n    Glacier                         A. H. Waite                22\n{p.010}\n\n  * Basaltic Columns, South\n    Mowich Glacier                  A. H. Waite                23\n\n  Mountain Goat                     A. H. Barnes               23\n\n  West side of summit, seen from\n    Tahoma Fork                     A. H. Barnes               24\n\n  Iron and Copper Mountains in\n    Indian Henry's                  A. G. Bowles, Jr.          25\n\n  Cutting steps up Paradise\n    Glacier                         Dr. F. A. Scott            25\n\n  Great Crag on ridge separating\n    North and South Tahoma Glacier  Dr. F. A. Scott            26\n\n  The Whistling Marmot              Asahel Curtis              26\n\n  View from Beljica, showing west\n    side of the Mountain            A. H. Barnes               27\n\n  * Mountain Pine                   E. S. Curtis               28\n\n  * Mount Wow, or Goat Mountain     E. S. Curtis               28\n\n  Rounded Cone of Mt. St Helen's    A. H. Barnes               29\n\n  * View northward from Simlayshe,\n    or Eagle Peak                   Pillsbury Picture Co.  30, 31\n\n  * Simlayshe, or Eagle Peak        Linkletter Photographic\n                                      Co.                      30\n\n  Exploring Ice Cave, Paradise\n    Glacier                         Dr. F. A. Scott            31\n\n  Junction of North and South\n    Tahoma Glaciers                 A. H. Denman               32\n\n  Anemones                          Miss Jessie Kershaw        32\n\n  * North Tahoma Glacier            A. H. Waite                33\n\n  * Snow Lake in Indian Henry's     A. H. Barnes               34\n\n  A fair Mountaineer                Asahel Curtis              35\n\n  Indian Henry's, seen from South\n    Tahoma Glacier                  A. H. Denman               36\n\n  * Southwest side of the Mountain,\n    seen from Indian Henry's        A. H. Barnes               37\n\n  Climbing Pinnacle Peak (2)        Asahel Curtis              38\n\n  A silhouette on Pinnacle Peak     Dr. F. A. Scott            39\n\n  * Rough Climbing                  E. S. Curtis               39\n\n  Ptarmigan                         Asahel Curtis              40\n\n  The Mountain, from Puyallup\n    river                           B. L. Aldrich, Jr.         40\n\n  Falls of the Little Mashell\n    river                           A. H. Barnes               41\n\n  Old Stage Road to Longmire\n    Springs                         A. H. Barnes               42\n\n  On Pierce County road, passing\n    Ohop Valley                     S. C. Lancaster            43\n\n  Cowlitz Chimneys                  S. C. Smith                43\n\n  * Old Road near Spanaway          A. H. Barnes               44\n\n  Automobile Party above Nisqually\n    Canyon                          Asahel Curtis              49\n\n  Prof. O. D. Allen's Cottage       Dr. F. A. Scott            49\n\n  \"Ghost Trees\"                     Mrs. H. A. Towne           50\n\n  Government Road in the Forest\n    Reserve                         S. C. Lancaster            51\n\n  \"Hanging Glacier,\" an ice fall\n    above the Cowlitz               Asahel Curtis              51\n\n  Leaving National Park Inn for\n    Paradise                        Linkletter Photo Co.       52\n\n  * On the Summit, showing\n    Columbia's Crest                Asahel Curtis              52\n\n  Paradise Valley or \"Park,\" and\n    Tatoosh Mountains               A. H. Barnes               53\n\n  On Government Road, a mile above\n    Longmires                       Linkletter Photo Co.       54\n\n  Road near \"Gap Point\"             Linkletter Photo Co.       54\n\n  Snout of Nisqually Glacier, and\n    Road Bridge                     Paul T. Shaw               55\n\n  Pony Trail Bridge across the\n    Nisqually                       Dr. H. B. Hinman           55\n\n  Road a mile above the Bridge      Asahel Curtis              56\n\n  On the Pony Trail to Paradise     Kiser Photo Co.            56\n\n  Sierra Club lunching on Nisqually\n    Glacier                         Asahel Curtis              57\n\n  A Mountain Celery                 Mrs. Alexander Thompson    57\n\n  Narada Falls, on Paradise River   Herbert W. Gleason         58\n\n  Washington Torrents, on Paradise\n    River                           A. H. Barnes               59\n\n  Portion of Paradise Park and\n    Tatoosh Range                   A. H. Barnes               59\n\n  View of the Mountain from the\n    Tatoosh, with key to landmarks  Herbert W. Gleason         60\n\n  Ice Bridge, Stevens Glacier       Dr. F. A. Scott            61\n\n  Tug of War                        Asahel Curtis              61\n\n  * Hiking through Paradise Valley\n    in Winter                       J. H. Weer                 62\n\n  * Tatoosh Range, from Reese's\n    Camp, in Winter                 J. H. Weer                 62\n\n  * Waterfall above Paradise\n    Valley                          Photo, W. E. Averett;\n                                    Copyright, Asahel Curtis   63\n\n  Looking from Stevens Glacier to\n    Mt. Adams                       Dr. F. A. Scott            64\n\n  Reese's Camp                      C. E. Cutter               64\n\n  Climbing the \"Horn\" on Unicorn\n    Peak                            Asahel Curtis              65\n\n  Stevens Canyon in October         A. H. Barnes               66\n\n  Sluiskin Falls                    A. H. Barnes               67\n\n  Eminent scientist practices the\n    simple life                     J. B. Flett                67\n\n  * Nisqually Glacier, with its\n    sources                         A. H. Barnes               68\n\n  Sierra Club on Nisqually Glacier  Asahel Curtis              69\n\n  * Lost to the World               Asahel Curtis              69\n\n  \"Sunshine\" and \"Storm\" (2)        Mrs. H. A. Towne           70\n{p.011}\n\n  Nisqually Glacier, from top of\n    Gibraltar                       Asahel Curtis              71\n\n  Measuring the ice flow in\n    Nisqually Glacier               Asahel Curtis              72\n\n  * Miss Fay Fuller Exploring a\n    Crevasse                        E. S. Curtis               72\n\n  Fairy Falls, in Goat Lick\n    Basin                           A. H. Barnes               75\n\n  * Gibraltar and its Neighbors     E. S. Curtis               76\n\n  Crossing Carbon Glacier           Asahel Curtis              77\n\n  * Reflection Lake and the\n    Mountain                        E. S. Curtis               77\n\n  Looking up from Cowlitz Chimneys\n    to Gibraltar                    Asahel Curtis              78\n\n  Divide of Paradise and Stevens\n    Glaciers                        A. H. Barnes               79\n\n  Old Moraine of Stevens Glacier    Asahel Curtis              79\n\n  Preparing for a night at Camp\n    Muir                            Asahel Curtis              80\n\n  The Bee Hive                      Asahel Curtis              80\n\n  Mazama Club on Cowlitz Chimneys   Kiser Photo Co.            81\n\n  Climbing Cowlitz Cleaver to\n    Gibraltar                       Asahel Curtis              81\n\n  Mazamas rounding Gibraltar        Rodney L. Glisan           82\n\n  Under the walls of Gibraltar      Asahel Curtis              83\n\n  One of the bedrooms at Camp Muir  A. H. Waite                83\n\n  Perilous position on edge of a\n    great crevasse                  Charles Bedford            84\n\n  Climbing the \"Chute,\" west side\n    of Gibraltar                    Asahel Curtis              85\n\n  Looking from top of Gibraltar to\n    the summit                      A. H. Waite                86\n\n  View south from Cowlitz Glacier\n    to Mt. Adams                    Charles Bedford            87\n\n  One of the modern craters         Asahel Curtis          88, 89\n\n  Steam Caves in one of the\n    craters                         Asahel Curtis              88\n\n  North Peak, or \"Liberty Cap.\"     A. W. Archer               89\n\n  Goat Peaks, glacier summits in\n    the Cascades                    Kiser Photo Co             90\n\n  Ice-bound lake in Cowlitz Park    S. C. Smith                93\n\n  Crevasses in Cowlitz Glacier      S. C. Smith                93\n\n  Crossing a precipitous slope on\n    White Glacier                   A. W. Archer               94\n\n  * Climbing Goat Peaks in the\n    Cascades                        S. C. Smith                94\n\n  Looking up White Glacier to\n    Little Tahoma                   Dr. F. A. Scott            95\n\n  The Mountain seen from top of\n    Cascade Range                   S. C. Smith                96\n\n  Great Moraine built by Frying-Pan\n    Glacier on \"Goat Island\"        J. B. Flett                96\n\n  Coming around Frying-Pan Glacier,\n    below Little Tahoma             Dr. F. A. Scott            97\n\n  Sunrise above the clouds, Camp\n    Curtis                          Asahel Curtis              97\n\n  Looking up from Snipe Lake,\n    below Interglacier              Dr. F. A. Scott            98\n\n  Passing a big Crevasse on\n    Interglacier                    Asahel Curtis              98\n\n  View North from Mt. Ruth to\n    Grand Park                      J. B. Flett                99\n\n  Camp on St. Elmo Pass, north side\n    of the Wedge                    Asahel Curtis             100\n\n  East Face of Mountain, with route\n    to summit                       Asahel Curtis             100\n\n  Admiral Peter Rainier                                       101\n\n  First picture of the Mountain,\n    from Vancouver's \"Voyage\"                                 101\n\n  Climbers on St. Elmo Pass         A. W. Archer              102\n\n  St. Elmo Pass, from north side    A. W. Archer              102\n\n  Russell Peak, from Avalanche\n    Camp                            Asahel Curtis             103\n\n  Avalanche Camp                    Asahel Curtis             103\n\n  Looking up Winthrop Glacier from\n    Avalanche Camp                  Asahel Curtis             104\n\n  Looking across Winthrop Glacier\n    to Steamboat Prow               Asahel Curtis             104\n\n  View south from Sluiskin Mountains\n    across Moraine Park             Asahel Curtis             105\n\n  Part of Spray Park                George Caesar             106\n\n  Climbing the seracs on Winthrop\n    Glacier                         Dr. F. A. Scott           107\n\n  Ice Pinnacles on the Carbon       A. W. Archer              107\n\n  Among the Ice Bridges of Carbon\n    Glacier                         Asahel Curtis             108\n\n  Building Tacoma's electric power\n    plant on the Nisqually (3)      George V. Caesar          111\n\n  Hydro-electric plant at Electron                            112\n\n  Cutting canal to divert White\n    River to Lake Tapps                                       112\n\n  Mystic Lake, in Moraine Park      Asahel Curtis             113\n\n  Glacier Table on Winthrop\n    Glacier                         Asahel Curtis             113\n\n  Carbon River and Mother\n    Mountains                       Dr. F. A. Scott           114\n\n  * Oldest and Youngest of the\n    Climbers                        C. E. Cutter              115\n\n  * P. B. Van Trump on his old\n    Camp Ground                     E. S. Curtis              115\n\n  Lower Spray Park, with Mother\n    Mountains beyond                Asahel Curtis             116\n\n  * John Muir, President of the\n    Sierra Club                     J. Edward B. Greene       116\n\n  Coasting in Moraine Park          Asahel Curtis             117\n\n  Sunset on Crater Lake             George V. Caesar          117\n\n  * Amphitheatre of Carbon Glacier  Asahel Curtis             118\n\n  * Avalanche falling on Willis\n    Wall                            Photo, Lea Bronson;\n                                    Copyright, P. V. Caesar   119\n{p.012}\n\n  * Birth of Carbon River           A. H. Waite               120\n\n  The Mountaineers building trail\n    on Carbon Moraine               Asahel Curtis             121\n\n  The Mountaineers lunching in a\n    crevasse                        Asahel Curtis             121\n\n  Looking southeast from Mt. Rose   George V. Caesar          122\n\n  Looking south from Mt. Rose,\n    across Crater Lake              George V. Caesar          123\n\n  * Looking up North Mowich Valley  Asahel Curtis             124\n\n  * Spray Falls                     Asahel Curtis             125\n\n  * A Rescue from a Crevasse        E. S. Curtis              126\n\n  Returning from the Summit         Asahel Curtis             126\n\n  * View across Moraine Park and\n    Carbon Glacier to Mother\n    Mountains                       Asahel Curtis             129\n\n  Senecio                           Mrs. Alexander Thompson   129\n\n  A 14-foot Fir, near Mineral Lake  A. H. Barnes              130\n\n  Indian Pipe                       J. B. Flett               131\n\n  Floral Carpet in Indian Henry's\n   Park                             A. H. Barnes              131\n\n  Mosses and Ferns in the Forest\n    Reserve                         Charles Bedford           132\n\n  A Bank of White Heather           Asahel Curtis             133\n\n  Hellebore                         Mrs. Alexander Thompson   133\n\n  Alpine Hemlock and Mountain\n    Lilies                          Mrs. H. A. Towne          134\n\n  Mountain Asters                   A. H. Barnes              134\n\n  Studying the Phlox                J. B. Flett               135\n\n  Squaw Grass, or Mountain Lily     Miss Jessie Kershaw       135\n\n  Avalanche Lilies                  Asahel Curtis             136\n\n  * Moraine Park, Sluiskin\n    Mountains and Mystic Lake       Asahel Curtis             136\n\n  Sunrise in Indian Henry's         A. H. Barnes              137\n\n  Anemone Seed Pods                 Asahel Curtis             138\n\n  Wind-swept Trees on North Side    George V. Caesar          139\n\n  Lupines                           Herbert W. Gleason        139\n\n  * The Mountain, seen from Green\n    River Hot Springs               C. E. Cutter              140\n\n  Glacial debris on lower Winthrop  Asahel Curtis             142\n\n  An Alpine Climbers' Cabin        From Whymper's \"Chamonix\n                                   and Mt. Blanc\"             144\n\n[Illustration: White River Canyon, from the terminal moraine of White\nGlacier. A fine example of glacial sculpture. The river seen in the\ndistance is 2,000 feet below the plateau through which the glacier has\ncarved this valley.]\n\n[Illustration {p.013}: Telephoto view from near Electron, 20 miles,\nshowing vast summit plateau left when the Mountain blew its head off.\n1. Crater Peak, built by the two small, modern craters. 2. South Peak,\nor Peak Success. 3. North Peak, or Liberty Cap. 4. North Tahoma\nGlacier. 5. Puyallup Glacier. 6. South Mowich Glacier. 7.\nNorth Mowich Glacier. 8. Snow Cap above Carbon Glacier. The summit\npeaks (1, 2 and 3) form a triangle, each side of which is two miles or\nmore in length.]\n\n[Illustration {p.014}: View of the Mountain from Fox Island,\nforty-two miles northwest, with part of Puget Sound in the\nforeground.]\n\n\n\n\n{p.015} THE MOUNTAIN SPEAKS.\n\n\n  I am Tacoma, Monarch of the Coast!\n      Uncounted ages heaped my shining snows;\n  The sun by day, by night the starry host,\n      Crown me with splendor; every breeze that blows\n      Wafts incense to my altars; never wanes\n  The glory my adoring children boast,\n      For one with sun and sea Tacoma reigns.\n\n          Tacoma--the Great Snow Peak--mighty name\n              My dusky tribes revered when time was young!\n          Their god was I in avalanche and flame--\n              In grove and mead and songs my rivers sung,\n              As blithe they ran to make the valleys fair--\n          Their Shrine of Peace where no avenger came\n              To vex Tacoma, lord of earth and air.\n\n  Ah! when at morn above the mists I tower\n      And see my cities gleam by slope and strand,\n  What joy have I in this transcendent dower--\n      The strength and beauty of my sea-girt land\n      That holds the future royally in fee!\n  And lest some danger, undescried, should lower,\n      From my far height I watch o'er wave and lea.\n\n          And cloudless eves when calm in heaven I rest,\n              All rose-bloom with a glow of paradise,\n          And through my firs the balm-wind of the west,\n              Blown over ocean islands, softly sighs,\n              While placid lakes my radiant image frame--\n          And know my worshippers, in loving quest,\n              Will mark my brow and fond lips breathe my name:\n\n  Enraptured from my valleys to my snows,\n      I charm my glow to crimson--soothe to gray;\n  And when the encircling shadow deeper grows,\n      Poise, a lone cloud, beside the starry way.\n      Then, while my realm is hushed from steep to shore,\n  I yield my grandeur to divine repose,\n      And know Tacoma reigns forevermore!\n\n  South Framingham, Mass.\n  March, 1911.                         Edna Dean Proctor\n\n[Illustration {p.016}: Copyright, 1906, By Romans Photographic Co.\nThe most kingly of American mountains, seen from beautiful Lake\nWashington, Seattle, distance sixty miles.]\n\n{p.017}\n[Illustration: A party of climbers on Winthrop Glacier.]\n\n\n\n\nTHE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS \"GOD.\"\n\nI.\n\nMOUNT \"BIG SNOW\" AND INDIAN TRADITION.\n\n  Long hours we toiled up through the solemn wood,\n      Beneath moss-banners stretched from tree to tree;\n  At last upon a barren hill we stood,\n      And, lo, above loomed Majesty.\n\n  --_Herbert Bashford: \"Mount Rainier.\"_\n\n\nThe great Mountain fascinates us by its diversity. It is an\ninspiration and yet a riddle to all who are drawn to the mysterious or\nwho love the sublime. Every view which the breaking clouds vouchsafe\nto us is a surprise. It never becomes commonplace, save to the\ncommonplace.\n\n[Illustration: Ice Terraces on South Tahoma Glacier. These vast steps\nare often seen where a glacier moves down a steep and irregular\nslope.]\n\nOld Virgil's gibe at mankind's better half--\"varium et mutabile semper\nfemina\"--might have been written of this fickle shape of rock and ice\nand vapor. One tries vainly, year after year, to define it in his own\nmind. The daily, hourly change of distance, size and aspect, tricks\nwhich the Indian's mountain {p.018} god plays with the puny\ncreatures swarming more and more about his foot; his days of frank\nneighborliness, his swift transformations from smiles to anger, his\nfits of sullenness and withdrawal, all baffle study. Even though we\nlive at its base, it is impossible to say we know the Mountain, so\nvarious are the spells the sun casts over this huge dome which it is\nslowly chiseling away with its tools of ice, and which, in coming\ncenturies, it will level with the plain.\n\n[Illustration: Mineral Lake and the Mountain. Distance, eighteen\nmiles.]\n\nWe are lovers of the water as well as the hills, out here in this\nnorthwestern corner of the Republic. We spend many days--and should\nspend more--in cruising among the hidden bays and park-like islands\nwhich make Puget Sound the most interesting body of water in America.\nWe grow a bit boastful about the lakes that cluster around our cities.\nNowhere better than from sea level, or from the lakes raised but\nlittle above it, does one realize the bulk, the dominance, and yet the\ngrace, of this noble peak. Its impressiveness, indeed, arises in part\nfrom the fact that it is one of the few great volcanic mountains whose\nentire height may be seen from tide level. Many of us can recall views\nof it from Lake Washington at Seattle, or from American or Spanaway\nLake at Tacoma, or from the Sound, which will always haunt the memory.\n\n[Illustration: Storm King Peak and Mineral Lake, viewed from near\nMineral Lake Inn.]\n\nEarly one evening, last summer, I went with a friend to Point\nDefiance, Tacoma's fine park at the {p.021} end of the promontory\non which the city is built. We drank in refreshment from the picture\nthere unrolled of broad channels and evergreen shores. As sunset\napproached, we watched the western clouds building range upon range of\ngolden mountains above the black, Alp-like crags of the Olympics.\nThen, entering a small boat, we rowed far out northward into the\nSound. Overhead, and about us, the scenes of the great panorama were\nswiftly shifted. The western sky became a conflagration. Twilight\nsettled upon the bay. The lights of the distant town came out, one by\none, and those of the big smelter, near by, grew brilliant. No Turner\never dreamed so glorious a composition of sunlight and shade. But we\nwere held by one vision.\n\n[Illustration {p.019}: View from Electron, showing west side of the\nmountain, with a vast intervening country of forested ranges and deep\ncanyons.]\n\n{p.021}\n[Illustration: Nisqually Canyon.\n\n  ... \"Where the mountain wall\n  Is piled to heaven, and through the narrow rift\n  Of the vast rocks, against whose rugged feet\n  Beats the mad torrent with perpetual roar:\n  Where noonday is as twilight, and the wind\n  Comes burdened with the everlasting moan\n  Of forests and far-off waterfalls.\"--Whittier.]\n\nYonder, in the southeast, towering above the lower shadows of harbor\nand hills, rose a vast pyramid of soft flame. The setting sun had\nthrown a mantle of rose pink over the ice of the glaciers and the\ngreat cleavers of rock which buttress the mighty dome. The rounded\nsummit was warm with beautiful orange light. Soon the colors upon its\nslope changed to deeper reds, and then to amethyst, and {p.023}\nviolet, and pearl gray. The sun-forsaken ranges below fell away to\ndark neutral tints. But the fires upon the crest burned on, deepening\nfrom gold to burnished copper, a colossal beacon flaming high against\nthe sunset purple of the eastern skies. Finally, even this great light\npaled to a ghostly white, as the supporting foundation of mountain\nridges dropped into the darkness of the long northern twilight, until\nthe snowy summit seemed no longer a part of earth, but a veil of\nuncanny mist, caught up by the winds from the Pacific and floating far\nabove the black sky-line of the solid Cascades, that\n\n  * * * heaven-sustaining bulwark, reared\n  Between the East and West.\n\n[Illustration {p.022}: Copyright, 1900, By A. H. Waite. North Peak,\nor Liberty Cap, and South Mowich Glacier in storm, seen from an\naltitude of 6,000 feet, on ridge between South Mowich and Puyallup\nGlaciers. The glacier, 2,000 feet below, is nearly half a mile wide.\nNote the tremendous wall of ice in which it ends.]\n\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1900, By A. H. Waite. Basaltic Columns, part\nof the \"Colonnade\" on south side of South Mowich Glacier. These\ncurious six-sided columns of volcanic rock are similar to those\nbordering the Cowlitz Glacier.]\n\n[Illustration: Mountain Goat, an accidental snap-shot of the fleet and\nwary Mazama; godfather of the famous Portland mountain club.]\n\nAnd when even that apparition had faded, and the Mountain appeared\nonly as an uncertain bulk shadowed upon the night, then came the\nmiracle. Gradually, the east, beyond the great hills, showed a faint\nsilver glow. Silhouetted against this dim background, the profile of\nthe peak grew definite. With no other warning, suddenly from its\nsummit the full moon shot forth, huge, majestic and gracious, flooding\nthe lower world with brightness. Clouds and mountain ranges alike\nshone with its glory. But the great peak loomed blacker and more\nsullen. Only, on its head, the wide crown of snow gleamed white under\nthe cold rays of the moon.\n\n[Illustration {p.024}: West Side of the summit, seen from Tahoma Fork\nof the Nisqually, on road to Longmire Springs. Note the whiteness of\nthe glacial water. This stream is fed by the united Tahoma glaciers.\nSee pp. 32 and 37.]\n\n{p.025}\n[Illustration: Iron and Copper Mountains (right) in Indian Henry's.\nThe top of Pyramid Peak shows in the saddle beyond with Peak Success\ntowering far above.]\n\nNo wonder that this mountain of changing moods, overtopping every\nother eminence in the Northwest, answered the idea of God to the\nsimple, imaginative mind of the Indians who hunted in the forest on\nits slopes or fished in the waters of Whulge that ebbed and flowed at\nits base. Primitive peoples in every land have deified superlative\nmanifestations of nature--the sun, the wind, great rivers, and\nwaterfalls, the high mountains. By all the tribes within sight of its\nsummit, this pre-eminent peak, variously called by them Tacoma\n(Tach-ho'ma), Tahoma or Tacob, as who should say \"The Great Snow,\" was\ndeemed a power to be feared and conciliated. Even when the\nmissionaries taught them a better faith, they continued to hold the\nMountain in superstitious reverence--an awe that still has power to\nsilence their \"civilized\" and very unromantic descendants.\n\n[Illustration: Cutting steps up Paradise Glacier.]\n\nThe Puget Sound tribes, with the Yakimas, Klickitats and others living\njust beyond the Cascades, had substantially the same language and\nbeliefs, though differing much in physical and mental type. {p.026}\nEast of the range, they lived by the chase. They were great horsemen\nand famous runners, a breed of lithe, upstanding, competent men, as\nkeen of wit as they were stately in appearance. These were \"the noble\nRed Men\" of tradition. Fennimore Cooper might have found many a hero\nworthy of his pen among the savages inhabiting the fertile valley of\nthe Columbia, which we now call the Inland Empire. But here on the\nCoast were the \"Digger\" tribes, who subsisted chiefly by spearing\nsalmon and digging clams. Their stooped figures, flat faces, downcast\neyes and low mentality reflected the life they led. Contrasting their\nheavy bodies with their feeble legs, which grew shorter with disuse, a\nTacoma humorist last summer gravely proved to a party of English\nvisitors that in a few generations more, had not the white man seized\ntheir fishing grounds, the squatting Siwashes would have had no legs\nat all!\n\n[Illustration: Great Crag on the ridge separating the North and South\nTahoma Glaciers, with Tahoma Fork of the Nisqually visible several\nmiles below. This rock is seen right of center on page 27.]\n\n[Illustration: The Marmot, whose shrill whistle is often heard among\nthe crags.]\n\nStolid and uninspired as he seemed to the whites, the Indian of the\nSound was not without his touch of poetry. He had that imaginative\ncuriosity which marked the native {p.028} American everywhere. He\nwas ever peering into the causes of things, and seeing the\nsupernatural in the world around him.[1]\n\n              [Footnote 1: Among those who have studied the Puget\n              Sound Indians most sympathetically is the Rev. Mr.\n              Hylebos of Tacoma. He came to the Northwest in 1870,\n              when the census gave Tacoma a white population of\n              seventy-three. In those days, says Father Hylebos, the\n              Tacoma tideflats, now filled in for mills and railway\n              terminals, were covered each autumn with the canoes of\n              Indians spearing salmon. It was no uncommon thing to see\n              at one time on Commencement Bay 1,800 fishermen. This\n              veteran worker among the \"Siwashes\" (French\n              \"_sauvages_\") first told me the myths that hallowed the\n              Mountain for every native, and the true meaning of the\n              beautiful Indian word \"Tacoma.\" He knew well all the\n              leaders of the generation before the railways: Sluiskin,\n              the Klickitat chief who guided Stevens and Van Trump up\n              to the snow-line in 1870; Stanup, chief of the\n              Puyallups; Kiskax, head of the Cowlitz tribe; Angeline,\n              the famous daughter of Chief Seattle, godfather of the\n              city of that name, and many others.]\n\n[Illustration {p.027}: View from Beljica, showing the deeply indented\nwest side of the Mountain. Beginning at extreme right, the glaciers\nare, successively: Kautz, South Tahoma, North Tahoma and Puyallup. In\nthe left foreground is the canyon of Tahoma Fork of the Nisqually,\nwhich is fed by the Tahoma glaciers.]\n\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1897, By E. S. Curtis. Mountain Pine, one of\nthe last outposts of the forest below the line of eternal snow.]\n\nTo the great Snow Mountain the Indians made frequent pilgrimages, for\nthey thought this king of the primeval wild a divinity to be reckoned\nwith. They dreaded its anger, seen in the storms about its head, the\nthunder of its avalanches, and the volcanic flashes of which their\ntraditions told. They courted its favor, symbolized in the wild\nflowers that bloomed on its slope, and the tall grass that fed the\nmowich, or deer.\n\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1897, By E. S. Curtis. Mount Wow, or Goat\nMountain, above Mesler's.]\n\nAs they ascended the vast ridges, the grandeur about them spoke of the\nmountain god. There were groves of trees he must have planted, so\norderly were they set out. The lakes of the lofty valleys seemed\ncalmer than those on the prairies below, the foliage brighter, the\nferns taller and more graceful. The song of the waterfalls here was\nsweeter than the music of the tamahnawas men, their Indian sorcerers.\nThe many small meadows close to the snow-line, carpeted in deepest\ngreen and spread with flowers, were the gardens of the divinity,\ntended by his superhuman agents. Strange as it may seem, the\nnature-worship of the silent Red Man had many points in common with\nthat of the imaginative, volatile Greek, who {p.030} peopled his\nmountains with immortals; and no wood in ancient Greece was ever\nthronged with hamadryads more real than the little gods whom the\nIndian saw in the forests watered by streams from Tacoma's glaciers.\n\n[Illustration {p.029}: Rounded Cone of Mt. St. Helens, seen from\nIndian Henry's, forty-five miles away.]\n\n[Illustration: View northward in early summer from Eagle Peak, at\nwestern end of the Tatoosh. Gibraltar Rock and Little Tahoma break the\neastern sky-line. On the extreme right lies Paradise Valley, still deep\nin snow, with the canyon of Paradise River below it. Next is seen the\nNisqually Glacier, with Nisqually River issuing from its snout. Then\ncome Van Trump Glacier (an \"interglacier\"), and the big Kautz Glacier,\ndropping into its own deep canyon. Beyond the Kautz, Pyramid Peak and\nIron and Copper Mountains rise on the Indian Henry plateau. The Tahoma\nGlaciers close the view westward.]\n\n[Illustration {p.031}: Copyright, 1907, By Pillsbury Picture Co.]\n\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1909, By Linkletter Photo. CO. Eagle Peak\n(Indian name, Simlayshe) at west end of the Tatoosh. Altitude about\n6,000 feet. A pony trail three miles long leads up from the Inn.]\n\nCountless snows had fallen since the mountain god created and\nbeautified this home of his, when one day he grew angry, and in his\nwrath showed terrible tongues of fire. Thus he ignited an immense fir\nforest on the south side of the peak. When his anger subsided, the\nflames passed, and the land they left bare became covered with blue\ngrass and wild flowers--a great sunny country where, before, the dark\nforest had been. Borrowing a word from the French _coureurs des bois_\nwho came with the Hudson's Bay Company, the later Indians sometimes\ncalled this region \"the Big Brule\"; and to this day some Americans\ncall it the same. But for the Big Brule the Indians had, from ancient\ntimes, another name, connected with their ideas of religion. It was\ntheir Saghalie Illahe, the \"Land of Peace,\" Heaven. Our name,\n\"Paradise Valley,\" {p.031} given to the beautiful open vale on the\nsouth slope of the Mountain, is an English equivalent.\n\nHere was the same bar to violence which religion has erected in many\nlands. The Hebrews had their \"Cities of Refuge.\" The pagan ancients\nmade every altar an asylum. Mediaeval Christianity constituted all its\nchurches sanctuaries. Thus, in lawless ages, the hand of vengeance was\nstayed, and the weak were protected.\n\n[Illustration: Exploring an Ice Cave, Paradise Glacier.]\n\nSo, too, the Indian tradition ordained this home of rest and refuge.\nIndian custom was an eye for an eye, but on gaining this mountain\nhaven the pursued was safe from his pursuer, the slayer might not be\ntouched by his victim's kindred. When he crossed its border, the\nwarrior laid down his arms. Criminals and cowards, too, were often\nsent here by the chiefs to do penance.\n\n[Illustration: Junction of North and South Tahoma Glaciers, viewed\nfrom Indian Henry's. The main ice stream thus formed, seen in the\nforeground, feeds Tahoma Fork of the Nisqually River. The Northern\npart of North Tahoma Glacier, seen in the distance beyond the wedge of\nrocks, feeds a tributary of the Puyallup.]\n\nThe mountain divinity, with his under-gods, figures in much of the\nSiwash {p.032} folklore, and the \"Land of Peace\" is often heard of.\nIt is through such typical Indian legends as that of Miser, the greedy\nhiaqua hunter, that we learn how large a place the great Mountain\nfilled in the thought of the aborigines.\n\n[Illustration: Anemones, a familiar mountain flower.]\n\nThis myth also explains why no Red Man could ever be persuaded to an\nascent beyond the snow line. As to the Greek, so to the Indian the\ngreat peaks were sacred. The flames of an eruption, the fall of an\navalanche, told of the wrath of the mountain god. The clouds that\nwrapped the summit of Tacoma spelled mystery and peril. Even so shrewd\nand intelligent a Siwash as Sluiskin, with all his keenness for\n\"Boston chikamin,\" the white man's money, refused to accompany Stevens\nand Van Trump in the first ascent, in 1870; indeed, he gave them up as\ndoomed, and bewailed their certain fate when they defied the\nMountain's wrath and started for the summit in spite of his warnings.\n\n[Illustration {p.033}: Copyright 1910, A. H. WAITE. North Tahoma\nGlacier, flowing out of the huge cleft in the west side, between North\nand South Peaks. A great rock wedge splits the glacier, turning part\nof the ice stream northward into the Puyallup, while the other part,\non the right pours down to join South Tahoma Glacier. Note how the\npromontory of rock in the foreground has been rounded and polished by\nthe ice. Compare this view with pages 32 and 37.]\n\n[Illustration {p.034}: Snow Lake in Indian Henry's, surrounded by\nAlpine firs, which grow close to the snow line. Elevation about 6,000\nfeet.]\n\nThe hero of the Hiaqua Myth is the Indian {p.035} Rip Van\nWinkle.[2] He dwelt at the foot of Tacoma, and, like Irving's worthy,\nhe was a mighty hunter and fisherman. He knew the secret pools where\nfish could always be found, and the dark places in the forest, where\nthe elk hid when snows were deepest. But for these things Miser cared\nnot. His lust was all for hiaqua, the Indian shell money.\n\n              [Footnote 2: This legend is well told in \"Myths and\n              Legends of the Pacific Northwest,\" a delightful book by\n              Katharine B. Judson of the Seattle Public Library\n              (Chicago, A. C. McClurg & Co.). See also Prof. W. D.\n              Lyman's papers in \"Mazama\" Vol. 2, and \"The\n              Mountaineer,\" Vol. 2; and Winthrop's \"Canoe and\n              Saddle.\"]\n\n[Illustration: A fair Mountaineer at the timber line. Note her\nequipment, including shoe calks.]\n\nNow, Miser's totem was Moosmoos, the elk divinity. So Miser tried,\neven while hunting the elk, to talk with them, in order to learn where\nhiaqua might be found. One night Moosmoos persuaded him that on top of\nthe Mountain he would find great store of it. Making him two elk-horn\npicks, and filling his ikta with dried salmon and kinnikinnick, he\nclimbed in two nights and a day to the summit. Here he found three big\nrocks, one like a camas root, one like a salmon's head, the third like\nhis friendly Moosmoos. Miser saw that Moosmoos had told him truly.\n\n[Illustration {p.036}: View of Indian Henry's Hunting Ground from a\npoint on South Tahoma Glacier, looking across to Copper and Iron\nMountains, with Mt. St. Helens above the clouds far beyond. This\nfamous upland plateau or \"park\" gets its name from the fact that it\nwas, years ago, the favorite haunt of a celebrated Indian hunter.]\n\n[Illustration {p.037}: Southwest side of the Mountain as seen from\nIndian Henry's, showing North and South Tahoma Glaciers meeting in\nforeground, and Kautz Glacier on extreme right.]\n\nAfter long digging, Miser overturned the rock that was like the elk's\nhead. Beneath lay a vast quantity of hiaqua. This he strung on elk's\nsinews--enough of it to make him the richest of men. Then he hurried\nto depart. But he left no thank-offering to the tanahnawas powers.\nThereupon the whole earth shook with a mighty convulsion, and the\nmountain shot forth terrible fires, which melted the snows and poured\nfloods down the slopes, where they were turned to ice again by the\nbreath of the storm-god. And above the roar of torrents and the crash\nof thunder, {p.038} Miser heard the voices of all the tamahnawas,\nhissing: \"Hiaqua! Hiaqua! Ha, ha, Hiaqua!\"\n\n[Illustration: Climbing Pinnacle Peak, in the Tatoosh. Elevation 6,500\nfeet. The route leads up from Paradise Valley, over the steep snow\nfield shown in the lower view, and thence by a difficult trail to the\nsummit.]\n\nPanic-stricken at the results of his greed, Miser threw down his load\nof treasure to propitiate the angry tamahnawas. But the storm-god\nhurled him down the mountain side. Miser fell into a deep sleep. Many,\nmany snows after, he awoke to find himself far from the summit, in a\npleasant country of beautiful meadows carpeted with flowers, abounding\nin camas roots, and musical with the song of birds. He had grown very\nold, with white hair falling to his shoulders. His ikta was empty,\nsave for a few dried leaves. Recognizing the scene about him as\nSaghalie Illahe, he sought his old tent. It was where he had left it.\nThere, too, was his klootchman, or wife, grown old, like himself.\nThirty snows, she said, she had awaited his return. Back they went to\ntheir {p.039} home on the bank of the Cowlitz, where he became a\nfamous tamahnawas man, and spent the rest of his days in honor, for\nhis tribesmen recognized that the aged Indian's heart had been\nmarvelously softened and his mind enriched by his experience upon the\npeak. He had lost his love for hiaqua.\n\n[Illustration: A silhouette on Pinnacle Peak, with Paradise Valley and\nthe Nisqually Glacier below.]\n\nAmong the familiar myths of the Mountain was one of a great flood, not\nunlike that of Noah. I quote Miss Judson's version:\n\n     WHY THERE ARE NO SNAKES ON TAKHOMA.\n\n     A long, long time ago, Tyhce Sahale became angry with his people.\n     Sahale ordered a medicine man to take his bow and arrow and shoot\n     into the cloud which hung low over Takhoma. The medicine man shot\n     the arrow, and it stuck fast in the cloud. Then he shot another\n     into the lower end of the first. Then he shot another into the\n     lower end of the second. He shot arrows until he had made a chain\n     which reached from the cloud to the earth. The medicine man told\n     his klootchman and his children to climb up the arrow trail. Then\n     he told the good animals to climb up the arrow trail. Then the\n     medicine man climbed up himself. Just as he was climbing into the\n     cloud, he looked back. A long line of bad animals and snakes were\n     also climbing up the arrow trail. Therefore the medicine man\n     broke the chain of arrows. Thus the snakes and bad animals fell\n     down on the mountain side. Then at once it began to rain. It\n     rained until all the land was flooded. Water reached even to the\n     snow line of Takhoma. When all the bad animals and snakes were\n     drowned, it stopped raining. After a while the waters sank again.\n     Then the medicine man and his klootchman and the children climbed\n     out of the cloud and came down the mountain side. The good\n     animals also climbed out of the cloud. Thus there are now no\n     snakes or bad animals on Takhoma.\n\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1897, by E. S. Curtis. Rough Climbing, an\nillustration of perils encountered in crossing the glaciers.]\n\nChildish and fantastic as they seem to our wise age, such legends show\nthe Northwestern Indian struggling to interpret the world about him.\nLike savages everywhere, he peopled the unknown with spirits good and\nbad, and mingled his conception of a beneficent deity with his ideas\nof the evil one. Symbolism pervaded his crude but very positive mind.\nEver by his side the old Siwash felt the Power that dwelt on Tacoma,\nprotecting and aiding him, or leading him to destruction. Knowing\n{p.040} nothing of true worship, his primitive intelligence could\nimagine God only in things either the most beautiful or the most\nterrifying; and the more we know the Mountain, the more easily we\nshall understand why he deemed the majestic peak a factor of his\ndestiny--an infinite force that could, at will, bless or destroy. For\nto us, too, though we have no illusions as to its supernatural powers,\nthe majestic peak may bring a message. Before me is a letter from an\ninspiring New England writer, who has well earned the right to\nappraise life's values. \"I saw the great Mountain three years ago,\"\nshe says; \"would that it might ever be my lot to see it again! I love\nto dream of its glory, and its vast whiteness is a moral force in my\nlife.\"\n\n                          Perpetual\n  And snowy tabernacle of the land,\n  While purples at thy base this peaceful sea,\n  And all thy hither slopes in evening bathe,\n  I hear soft twilight voices calling down\n  From all thy summits unto prayer and love.\n\n  --_Francis Brooks: \"Mt. Rainier.\"_\n\n[Illustration: Ptarmigan, the Grouse of the ice-fields. Unlike its\nneighbor, the Mountain Goat, this bird is tame, and may sometimes be\ncaught by hand. In winter its plumage turns from brown to white.]\n\n[Illustration: The Mountain, seen from Puyallup River, near Tacoma.]\n\n[Illustration {p.041}: Falls of the Little Mashell River, near\nEatonville and the road to the Mountain.]\n\n[Illustration {p.042}: Old Stage Road to Longmire Springs and the\nNational Park Inn, showing the tall, clear trunks of the giant firs.]\n\n{p.043}\n[Illustration: On Pierce County's splendid scenic road to the\nMountain. Passing Ohop Valley.]\n\n\n\n\nII.\n\nTHE NATIONAL PARK, ITS ROADS AND ITS NEEDS.\n\n     There are plenty of higher mountains, but it is the decided\n     isolation--the absolute standing alone in full majesty of its own\n     mightiness--that forms the attraction of Rainier. * * * It is no\n     squatting giant, perched on the shoulders of other mountains.\n     From Puget Sound, it is a sight for the gods, and one feels in\n     the presence of the gods.--_Paul Fountain: \"The Seven Eaglets of\n     the West\"_ (London, 1905).\n\n\nThe first explorers to climb the Mountain, forty years ago, were\ncompelled to make their way from Puget Sound through the dense growths\nof one of the world's greatest forests, over lofty ridges and deep\ncanyons, and across perilous glacial torrents. The hardships of a\njourney to the timber line were more formidable than the difficulties\nencountered above it.\n\n[Illustration: Cowlitz Chimneys, seen from basin below Frying-Pan\nGlacier.]\n\nEven from the East the first railroad to the Coast had just reached\nSan Francisco. Thence the traveler came north to the Sound by boat.\nThe now busy cities of Seattle and Tacoma were, one, an ambitious\nvillage of 1,107 inhabitants; the other, a sawmill, with seventy\npersons living around it. They were frontier settlements, outposts of\n{p.044} civilization; but civilization paid little attention to them\nand their great Mountain, until the railways, some years later, began\nto connect them with the big world of people and markets beyond the\nRockies.\n\n[Illustration: On the way out from Tacoma, over the partly wooded\nprairie, the automobilist sees many scenes like this old road near\nSpanaway Lake.]\n\nHow different the case to-day! Six transcontinental railroads now\ndeliver their trains in the Puget Sound cities. These are: The\nNorthern Pacific, which was the first trunk line to reach the Sound;\nthe Great Northern; the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy; the Chicago,\nMilwaukee & Puget Sound; the Oregon-Washington (Union Pacific), and\nthe Canadian Pacific. A seventh, the North Coast, is planned.\n\n[Illustration {p.046}: View Northward from top of Pinnacle Peak in\nthe Tatoosh range to Paradise Valley, Nisqually Glacier and Gibraltar\nRock, eight miles away.]\n\n[Illustration {p.047}: Looking Northeast from slope of Pinnacle Peak,\nacross Paradise, Stevens, Cowlitz and Frying Pan Glaciers. These two\nviews form virtually a panorama.]\n\nArriving in Seattle or Tacoma, the traveler has his choice of quick\nand enjoyable routes to the Mountain. He may go by automobile, leaving\neither city in the morning. After traveling one of the best and most\ninteresting roads in the country--the only one, in fact, to reach a\nglacier--he may take luncheon at noon six thousand feet higher, in\nParadise Park, overlooking great glaciers and close to the line of\neternal snow. Or he may go by the comfortable trains of the Tacoma\nEastern (Milwaukee system) to Ashford, fifty-five miles from Tacoma,\nand then by automobile stages, over a picturesque portion of the fine\nhighway just mentioned, to the National Park Inn at Longmire Springs\n(altitude 2,762 feet). Lunching there, he may then go on, by coach\nover the new government road, or on horseback over one of the most\ninviting mountain trails in America, or afoot, as many prefer. Thus he\n{p.049} gains Paradise Park and its far-reaching observation\npoint, Camp of the Clouds (elevation, 5,800 feet). From the Inn, too,\nanother romantic bridle path leads to Indian Henry's famous Hunting\nGround, equally convenient as a base of adventure.\n\n[Illustration: Automobile Party above Nisqually Canyon, Pierce County\nRoad to the Mountain.]\n\n[Illustration: Prof. O. D. Allen's cottage, in the Forest Reserve,\nwhere the former Yale professor has for years studied the flora of the\nMountain.]\n\nWhether the visitor goes to the Mountain by train or by automobile,\nhis choice will be a happy one. For either route leads through a\ncountry of uncommon charm. Each of them, too, will carry the visitor\nup from the Sound to the great and beautiful region on the southern\nslopes which includes the Tahoma, Kautz, Nisqually, Paradise and\nStevens canyons, with their glaciers and the wonderful upland plateaus\nor \"parks\" that lie between.\n\n[Illustration: \"Ghost Trees\" in Indian Henry's. These white stalks\ntell of fires set by careless visitors.]\n\nHere let him stay a day or a month. Every moment of his time will be\ncrowded with new experiences and packed with enjoyment. For here is\nsport to last for many months. He may content himself with a day spent\nin coasting down a steep snow-field in midsummer, snowballing his\ncompanions, and climbing Alta Vista to look down on the big Nisqually\nglacier in the deep bed which it has {p.050} carved for itself, and\nup its steep slopes to its neve field on the summit. Or he may explore\nthis whole region at his leisure. He may climb the hard mountain\ntrails that radiate from Longmires and Paradise. He may work up over\nthe lower glaciers, studying their crevasses, ice caves and flow. He\nwill want to ascend some of the tempting crags of the ragged Tatoosh,\nfor the panorama of ice-capped peaks and dark, forested ranges which\nis there unfolded. After a week or two of such \"trying-out,\" to\ndevelop wind and harden muscle, he may even scale the great Mountain\nitself under the safe lead of experienced guides. He may wander at\nwill over the vast platform left by a prehistoric explosion which\ntruncated the cone, and perhaps spend a night of sensational novelty\n(and discomfort) in a big steam cave, under the snow, inside a dead\ncrater.\n\nThe south side has the advantage of offering the wildest alpine sport\nin combination with a well-appointed hotel as a base of operations.\nHence the majority of visitors know only that side. Everybody should\nknow it, too, for there is not a nobler playground anywhere; but\nshould also know that it is by no means the only side to see.\n\nOne may, of course, work around from the Nisqually canyon and\nParadise, east or west, to the other glaciers and \"parks.\" It is quite\npracticable, if not easy, to make the trip eastward from Camp of the\nClouds, crossing Paradise, Stevens and Cowlitz glaciers, and thus to\nreach the huge White glacier on the east side and Winthrop and Carbon\nglaciers on the north. Every summer sees more and more visitors making\nthis wonderful journey.\n\nBut the usual way to reach the great north side, especially for\nparties which carry camp equipment, is by a Northern Pacific train\nover the Carbonado branch to Fairfax. This is on Carbon river, five\nmiles from the northwest corner of the National Park. Thence the\ntraveler will go by horse or afoot, over a safe mountain trail, to\nSpray Park, the fascinating region between Carbon and North Mowich\n{p.051} glaciers. Standing here, on such an eminence as Fay Peak or\nEagle Cliff, he may have views of the Mountain in its finest aspects\nthat will a thousand times repay the labor of attainment.\n\n[Illustration: Government Road in the Forest Reserve.]\n\n[Illustration: \"Hanging Glacier,\" or ice fall, above Cowlitz Glacier.]\n\nA visit to this less known but no less interesting side involves the\nnecessity of packing an outfit. But arrangements for horses and\npackers are easily made, and each year an increasing number of parties\nmake Spray Park their headquarters, spending, if they are wise, at\nleast a week in this wide region of flowering alpine valleys and\ncommanding heights. From there they go south, over the west-side\nglaciers, or east, across the Carbon and through the great White river\ncountry. They camp on the south side of the Sluiskin mountains, in\nMoraine Park, and there have ready access to Carbon and Winthrop\nglaciers, with splendid views of the vast precipices that form the\nnorth face of the Mountain. Thence they climb east and south over the\nWinthrop and White glaciers. They visit the beautiful Grand Park and\nSummerland, and either make the ascent to the summit from \"Steamboat\nProw\" on the \"Wedge,\" over the long ice slope of the White glacier, or\ncontinue around to the Paradise country and Longmire Springs.\n\n{p.052}\n[Illustration: Leaving the National Park Inn at Longmire Springs for\nParadise Park.]\n\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1909, By Asahel Curtis. On the Summit,\nshowing Columbia's Crest, the great mound of snow that has, most\ncuriously, formed on this wide, wind-swept platform. This, the actual\ntop of the Mountain, is 14,363 feet above sea level.]\n\nThe west side has been less visited than the others, but there is a\ntrail from the North Mowich to the Nisqually, and from this\nadventurous explorers reach North and South Mowich and Puyallup\nglaciers. No one has yet climbed the Mountain over those glaciers, or\nfrom the north side. A view from any of the trails will explain why.\nThe great rock spines are more precipitous than elsewhere, the\nglaciers more broken; and the summit is fronted on either side by a\nhuge parapet of rock which hurls defiance at anything short of an\nairship. Doubtless, we shall some day travel to Crater Peak by\naeroplanes, but until these vehicles are equipped with {p.054}\nrunners for landing and starting on the snow, we shall do best to plan\nour ascents from the south or east side.\n\n[Illustration {p.053}: Paradise Valley or \"Park,\" and Tatoosh\nMountains, from slope below Paradise Glacier. The highest of the peaks\nare about 7,000 feet above sea level and 1,700 feet above the floor of\nthe valley.]\n\n[Illustration: On the Government Road a mile above Longmires, bound\nfor the Nisqually Glacier.]\n\n[Illustration: Near \"Gap Point,\" where the road turns from the\nNisqually canyon into that of Paradise River.]\n\nI have thus briefly pointed out the favorite routes followed in\nexploring the National Park. The time is fast approaching when it will\nbe a truly national recreation ground, well known to Americans in\nevery State. The coming of new railways to Puget Sound and the\ndevelopment of new facilities for reaching the Mountain make this\ncertain.[3]\n\n              [Footnote 3: For details as to rates for transportation,\n              accommodations and guides, with the rules governing the\n              National Park, see the notes at end of the book.]\n\n[Illustration: Snout of Nisqually Glacier, with the river which it\nfeeds. Though much shrunken since the epoch when it filled the whole\ncanyon, the glacier is still a vast river of ice; and its front, seen\nseveral hundred yards above the bridge, rises sheer 500 feet. The new\nroad to Narada Falls and Paradise Park crosses the Nisqually here.\nAutomobiles are not permitted to go above this point.]\n\nEvery step taken for the conservation of the natural beauty of the\nPark and its opening to proper use and enjoyment is a public benefit.\nOutside the national reserves, our lumbermen are fast destroying the\nforests; but, if properly guarded against fire, the great Park forest\nwill still teach future generations how lavishly Nature plants, just\nas the delightful glacial valleys and towering landmarks teach how\npowerful and artistic a sculptor she is. Experienced travelers and\nalpinists {p.055} who have visited the Mountain unite in declaring\nits scenery, combining as it does great vistas of ice with vast\nstretches of noble forest, to be unequaled elsewhere in America, and\nunsurpassed anywhere. In the fascination of its glacial story, as well\nas in the grandeur of its features, it has few rivals among the great\npeaks of the world. The geologist, the botanist, the weary business\nman, the sportsman, all find it calling them to study, to rest, or to\nstrenuous and profitable recreation. Here is a resource more lasting\nthan our timber. When the loggers shall have left us only naked\nranges, without the reserves, the Park may yield a crop more valuable.\n\n[Illustration: Pony bridge over the Nisqually, on trail to Paradise.\nNote the granite boulders which the stream has rounded in rolling them\ndown from the glacier.]\n\n*[Illustration: The road a mile above the bridge, overlooking\nNisqually Canyon and Glacier.]\n\n*[Illustration: On the Pony Trail to Paradise. This trail winds\nthrough the dense forest above Longmires, crosses the Nisqually, and\nthen follows Paradise River, with its miles of picturesque cascades.\nIt is one of the most beautiful mountain paths in America.]\n\nUntil recent years this was known only to the hardy few who delight in\ndoing difficult things for great rewards. But that day of isolation\nhas passed. The value of the Park to the whole American people is more\n{p.056} and more appreciated by them, if not yet by their official\nrepresentatives. While Congress has dealt less liberally with this\nthan with the other great National Parks, what it has appropriated has\nbeen well spent in building an invaluable road, which opens one of the\nmost important upland regions to public knowledge and use. This road\nis a continuation of the well-made highway maintained by Pierce County\nfrom Tacoma, which passes through an attractive country of partly\nwooded prairies and follows the picturesque Nisqually valley up the\nheavily forested slopes to the Forest Reserve and the southwestern\ncorner of the Park. The public has been quick to seize the opportunity\nwhich the roads offered. The number of persons entering the Park, as\nshown by the annual reports of the Superintendent, has grown {p.057}\nfrom 1,786 in 1906 to more than 8,000 in 1910. In the same period, the\nYellowstone National Park, with its greater age, its wider\nadvertising, its many hotels, its abundance of government money,\nincreased its total of visitors from 17,182 to 19,575.\n\n[Illustration: Sierra Club lunching on Nisqually Glacier. The huge ice\nwall in the distance is the west branch of the Nisqually, and is\nsometimes miscalled \"Stevens Glacier.\" As seen here, it forms a\n\"hanging glacier,\" which empties into the main glacier over the\ncliff.]\n\nFor one thing, these roads have put it within the power of\nautomobilists from all parts of the Coast to reach the grandest of\nAmerican mountains and the largest glaciers of the United States south\nof Alaska. They connect at Tacoma, with excellent roads from Seattle\nand other cities on the Sound, as well as from Portland and points\nfarther south. The travel from these cities has already justified the\nconstruction of the roads, and is increasing every year. Even from\nCalifornia many automobile parties visit the Mountain. The railway\ntravel is also fast increasing, and the opening this year of its\ntranscontinental service by the Milwaukee Railway, which owns the\nTacoma Eastern line to Ashford, is likely soon to double the number of\nthose who journey to the Mountain by rail.\n\n[Illustration: A Mountain Celery.]\n\n[Illustration: Narada Falls, 185 feet, on Paradise River (altitude,\n4,572 feet). Both trail and road pass it. \"Narada\" is an East Indian\nword meaning \"peace.\" The name was given many years ago by a party of\nTheosophists who visited the falls. Happily, the effort to change the\nname to \"Cushman Falls\" has failed.]\n\nThe new government road to Paradise and the trails {p.058}\nconnecting with it have, however made only a fraction of the Park\naccessible. The most important work for the conservation of this great\nalpine area and its opening to the public still remains to be done.\nCongress is now asked to provide funds for the survey and gradual\nextension of the road to the other plateaus on all sides of the peak.\nPending the construction of the road, it is highly important that, as\nsoon as the surveys can be made, bridle trails be built on the easy\ngrades thus established. Not only are these roads and trails much\nneeded for the convenience of visitors to the Mountain, but, with the\ncloser approach of logging operations, they are year by year becoming\nmore necessary to the proper policing of the Park and its protection\nagainst forest fires. For want of them, great sections of forest\nwithin the Park are liable to be swept away at any time, before the\nrangers could find their way over the scant and broken trails now\nexisting. The request for better access to the other sides of the\nMountain has received the earnest indorsement of the Washington\nlegislature, the commercial organizations of the entire Coast, and the\nseveral mountain clubs in different parts of the country. Only\nCongress remains blind to its importance.\n\nCongressional action affecting this immediate area began in 1899. A\ntract eighteen miles square, 207,360 acres, to be known as \"Ranier\nNational Park,\"[4] was {p.059} withdrawn from the 2,146,600 acres of\nthe Pacific Forest Reserve, previously created. The area thus set\napart as \"a public park for the benefit and enjoyment of the people\"\n(Act of March 2, 1899) was already known to a few enthusiasts and\nexplorers as one of the world's great wonderlands. In 1861 James\nLongmire, a prospector, had built a trail from Yelm over Mashell\nmountain and up the Nisqually river to Bear Prairie. This he extended\nin 1884 to the spot now known as Longmire Springs, and thence up the\nNisqually and Paradise rivers to the region now called Paradise Park.\nPart of this trail was widened later into a wagon road, used for many\nyears by persons seeking health at the remarkable mineral springs on\nthe tract which the Longmires acquired from the government before the\nestablishment of the Forest Reserve.\n\n              [Footnote 4: For some years, Congress and the Interior\n              Department spelled it \"Ranier\"! A well-known Congressman\n              from Seattle corrected their spelling of the name of the\n              forgotten admiral, and it has since been officially\n              \"Rainier National Park.\"]\n\n[Illustration: Washington Torrents, on Paradise River; a series of\nfalls a mile in length, seen from the new road to Paradise and still\nbetter from the pony trail.]\n\n[Illustration: Portion of Paradise Park and the Tatoosh Range.]\n\nThe Longmire road, rough as it was, long remained the best route; but\nin 1903 the Mountain found a tireless friend in the late Francis W.\nCushman, representative from this State, who persuaded Congress to\nauthorize the survey and construction of a better highway. Work was\nnot begun, however, until 1906. The {p.061} yearly appropriations\nhave been small, and total only $240,000 for surveys, construction and\nmaintenance, to the end of the last session.\n\n[Illustration {p.060}: View from north side of the Tatoosh. 1. Crater\nPeak. 2. South Peak, or Peak Success. 3. Nisqually Glacier, with\nfeeders. 4. Gibraltar Rock. 5. Camp Muir, on Cowlitz Cleaver. 6.\nCathedral Rocks. 7. Little Tahoma. 8. Paradise Glacier. 9. Alta Vista.\n10. Camp of the Clouds. 11. Reese's Camp. 12. Sluiskin Falls. 13.\nParadise River and Valley. 14. Mazama Ridge. 15. Reflection Lake. 16.\nVan Trump Glacier. 17. Von Trump Park. 18. Kautz Glacier. 19.\nPyramid Peak. 20. Tahoma Glaciers. 21. Indian Henry's. Dotted line\nshows South-side route to the summit.]\n\n[Illustration: Ice Bridge, Stevens Glacier.]\n\n[Illustration: Mountain Sports. Tug of War between teams picked from\nthe feminine contingent of the Mountaineers.]\n\nThe road, as now open to Paradise valley, is a monument to the\nengineering skill of Mr. Eugene Ricksecker, United States Assistant\nEngineer, in local charge of the work. Over its even floor you go from\nthe west boundary of the Forest Reserve up the north bank of the\nNisqually river, as far as the foot of its glacier. Crossing on the\nbridge here, you climb up and up, around the face of a bluff known as\nGap Point, where a step over the retaining wall would mean a sheer\ndrop of a thousand feet into the river below. Thus you wind over to\nthe Paradise river and famous Narada Falls, switch back up the side of\nthe deep Paradise canyon to the beautiful valley of the same name\nabove, and, still climbing, reach Camp of the Clouds and its\npicturesque tent hotel. The road has brought you a zigzag journey of\ntwenty-five miles to cover an air-line distance of twelve and a gain\nin elevation of 3,600 feet. It is probably unique in its grades. It\nhas no descents. Almost everywhere it is a gentle climb. {p.062}\nBelow Longmire Springs the maximum grade is 2.5 per cent., and the\naverage, 1.6 per cent. Beyond, the grade is steeper, but nowhere more\nthan 4 per cent.\n\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1911, By J. H. Weer. Tatoosh Mountains and\nParadise Park in Winter.]\n\nThe alignment and grades originally planned have been followed, but\nfor want of funds only one stretch, a mile and a quarter, has yet been\nwidened to the standard width of eighteen feet. Lacking money for a\nbroader road, the engineers built the rest of it twelve feet wide.\nThey wisely believed that early opening of the route for vehicles to\nParadise, even though the road be less than standard width, would\nserve the public by making the Park better known, and thus arouse\ninterest in making it still more accessible. It will require about\n$60,000 to complete the road to full width, and render it thoroughly\nsecure.\n\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1911, By J. H. Weer.\nHiking through Paradise in Winter.]\n\nOf still greater importance, however, to the safety of the Park and\nits opening to public use is the carrying out of Mr. Ricksecker's fine\nplan for a road around the Mountain. His new map of the Park, printed\nat the end of this volume, shows the route proposed. Leaving the\npresent road near Christine Falls, below the Nisqually glacier, he\nwould double back over the hills to Indian Henry's, thence dropping\ninto the canyon of Tahoma {p.064} Fork, climbing up to St. Andrew's\nPark, and so working round to the Mowich glaciers, Spray Falls, and\nthe great \"parks\" on the north. The snout of each glacier would be\nreached in turn, and the high plateaus which the glaciers have left\nwould be visited.\n\n[Illustration {p.063}: Copyright, 1910, By Asahel Curtis. Waterfall\nfrom snowfields on ridge above Paradise Valley.]\n\n[Illustration: Looking from Stevens Glacier down into Stevens Canyon,\nand across the Tatoosh and Cascade ranges to Mt. Adams.]\n\nCrossing Spray Park, Moraine Park and Winthrop glacier's old bed, the\nroad would ascend to Grand Park and the Sour-Dough country--a region\nunsurpassed anywhere on the Mountain for the breadth and grandeur of\nits views. More descents, climbs and detours would bring it to the\nfoot of White glacier, and thence through Summerland and Cowlitz Park,\nand westward to a junction with the existing road in Paradise. Its\nelevation would range between four and seven thousand feet above the\nsea. The route, as indicated on the contour map, suggests very plainly\nthe engineering feats involved in hanging roads on these steep and\ndeeply-carved slopes.\n\n[Illustration: Reese's Camp, a tent hotel on a ridge in Paradise Park,\nbelow Camp of the Clouds (Elevation, 5,557 feet). This is the usual\nstarting point of parties to the summit over the South-side route, via\nGibraltar. See p. 60.]\n\nBetween eighty and a hundred miles of construction work would be\nrequired, costing approximately $10,000 a mile. Including the\ncompletion of the present {p.067} road to standard width, Congress\nwill thus have to provide a round million if it wishes to give\nreasonable protection to the Park and fully achieve the purpose of\n\"benefit and enjoyment\" for which it was created. Such a road would\njustify the Congress which authorizes it, immortalize the engineers\nwho build it, and honor the nation that owns it.\n\n[Illustration {p.065}: Climbing the \"horn\" on the summit of Unicorn\nPeak, the highest crag in the Tatoosh (Elevation, about 7,000 feet).\nThe man who first reached the top is dimly seen in the shadow on the\nleft.]\n\n[Illustration {p.066}: Stevens Canyon in October, with Mt. Adams over\neastern end of Tatoosh range on right, and Cascade range on left. The\nsnow summits on the Cascade sky-line are \"Goat Peaks.\" Goat Lick Basin\nis in lower left corner of the picture.]\n\n[Illustration: Sluiskin Falls, 150 feet, just below Paradise Glacier,\nnamed after Sluiskin, the famous Indian who guided Van Trump and\nStevens to the snow line in 1870.]\n\nTalking with President David Starr Jordan of Stanford University a few\nweeks ago, I found that famous climber of mountains greatly interested\nin the project for better roads and trails in the National Park. \"How\nmuch will the whole thing cost?\" he asked. I told him.\n\n[Illustration: An eminent scientist practices the simple life in camp\nnear the Timber Line.]\n\n\"Why, a million dollars would pay for the upkeep of one of our\nbattleships for a whole year!\" exclaimed the great advocate of\ndisarmament. Whether Congress can be induced to value scenery as\nhighly as battleships remains to be seen. It has already done very\nwell by the Yellowstone National Park, where $2,142,720 of government\nmoney had been spent on road building and administration up to July 1,\n1910. No one who knows the glories of that park will deem the amount\nexcessive. But with its still grander scenery, its important glaciers,\nits priceless forests, and the greater population within easy reach of\nits opportunities for study and recreation, the claims of the Rainier\nNational Park are at least equal to those of the Yellowstone, and they\nshould be as liberally met.\n\n[Illustration {p.068}: Nisqually Glacier, with its sources in the\nsnow field of the summit. On the right is Gibraltar Rock and on the\nextreme left Kautz Glacier flows down from Peak Success. Note the\nmedial moraines, resulting from junction of ice streams above. These\napparently small lines of dirt are often great ridges of rocks, cut\nfrom the cliffs. The picture also illustrates how the marginal\ncrevasses of a glacier point down stream from the center, though the\ncenter flows faster than the sides.]\n\n{p.069}\n[Illustration: The Sierra Club on Nisqually Glacier. This active\nCalifornia organization sent a large party to the Mountain in 1905.]\n\nIt is not desired that the whole sum named be appropriated at once.\nIndeed, the recommendation of the engineers has been far more modest.\nAs far back as 1907, Maj. H. M. Chittenden of the United States\nEngineer Corps, in charge, wrote as follows in his report to the\nSecretary of War:\n\n     A bridle trail around the Mountain, just under the glacier line,\n     is absolutely essential to the proper policing of the Park, and\n     very necessary for the convenience of tourists, if they are\n     really to have access to the attractions of the Park. The trail\n     should be so located that in time it may be enlarged into a wagon\n     road.\n\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1909, Asahel Curtis. Lost to the World,\n7,500 feet above sea level, with an ocean of cloud rising.]\n\nThis recommendation has been indorsed by Major Chittenden's successor,\nMaj. C. W. Kutz, and may be taken as expressing the conviction of the\ngovernment {p.070} engineers as to the minimum of work needed in the\nPark at once. For the necessary surveys and the building of the\ntrails, Mr. Ricksecker informs me that $50,000 will probably be\nenough. This is so insignificant in comparison with the good sought\nand the value of the national property to be protected and made\naccessible that its immediate appropriation by Congress should be\nbeyond question. Nevertheless, half that amount has twice been asked\nfor in measures introduced by Senator S. H. Piles, but in neither case\ndid the appropriation pass both houses. It is to be hoped that the\npresent Congress will give the full amount of $50,000, which will\nenable the surveys to be completed over the entire route, and trails\nto be built on most, if not all, of that route. Their widening into\npermanent roads will follow in due time, when the wonders of glacier,\ncanyon and forest which they make accessible are once known.\n\n[Illustration: \"Sunshine.\" View of the Mountain from above Sluiskin\nFalls at 3 P.M.]\n\n[Illustration: \"Storm.\" View near the same point an hour later.]\n\nThe road recently completed to Paradise Valley should be widened, by\nall means, and made safer by retaining walls at every danger point.\nBut it is doubtful whether automobiles will ever be permitted above\nthe bridge at the Nisqually glacier. Some automobile owners regard the\nPark as an automobile-club preserve, and insist that nothing more be\ndone toward the opening of its {p.072} scenery or the conservation\nof its forest until it is made safe for them to run their touring cars\ninto Paradise. This is unfortunate, because it betrays ignorance of\nthe purpose of Congress in creating the National Parks, namely, the\neducation and enjoyment of all the people, not the pleasure of a\nclass. Moreover, no matter how wide or well-guarded the road may be\nabove the bridge, it can never be wide enough to prevent a reckless\nchauffeur from causing a terrible fatality. It is necessarily a very\ncrooked road, hung upon the high ledges of precipitous cliffs. While\nthe road is safe for coaches drawn by well-broken horses and driven by\ntrustworthy drivers, it would be criminal folly to open it to the\ncrowd of automobiles that would rush to Paradise Valley. If\nautomobiles are permitted to go beyond the Nisqually glacier, it\nshould be only when in charge of a park officer.\n\n[Illustration {p.071}: Looking down on Nisqually Glacier from top of\nGibraltar Rock, with storm clouds veiling the Mountain.]\n\n[Illustration: Measuring the Ice Flow in Nisqually Glacier. In 1905\nProf. J. N. Le Conte of Berkeley, Cal., established the fact that this\nglacier has an average flow, in summer, of 16.2 inches a day. The\nmovement is greater at the center than on the sides, and greater on\nthe convex side of a curve than on the concave side. It thus is a true\nriver, though a slow one. The measurements are taken by running a line\nfrom one lateral moraine to the other with a transit, setting stakes\nacross the glacier at short intervals, and ascertaining the advance\nthey make from day to day.]\n\nEven from the older and wider roads of the Yellowstone automobiles\nhave been excluded, although there are no large cities near by, as\nthere are here, to send hundreds of cars into that park on any\npleasant day. The automobilists will be wise to accept their privilege\nof access to the foot of the glacier, and use it with care, too.\nSeveral serious accidents have already occurred, and if greater care\nis not exercised, the Interior Department will apply the Yellowstone\nrule, at least to the extent of stopping all cars at Longmires.\n\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1897, By E. S. Curtis. Miss Fay Fuller\nexploring a crevasse.]\n\n[Illustration {p.073}: Copyright 1906, By A. H. Barnes. Ice Cave,\nParadise Glacier.]\n\nQuestions like this, involving conflict between the interests of a\nclass and the vital needs of the Park as a public institution,\n{p.075} give especial emphasis to the recommendation made by\nSecretary Ballinger on his last annual report. Owing to the great\nnumber and extent of the National Parks, and the inefficiency of the\npresent \"perfunctory policy\" in their administration, Mr. Ballinger\nasked Congress to put the management of these institutions under a\nBureau of National Parks, conducted by a competent commissioner, and\norganized for efficient field administration and careful inspection of\nall public work and of the conduct of concessionaries. Regarding the\nneed of such a systematic and scientific organization for the\ndevelopment of the parks, he says:\n\n     A definite policy for their maintenance, supervision and\n     improvement should be established, which would enable them to be\n     gradually opened up for the convenience of tourists and campers\n     and for the careful preservation of their natural features.\n     Complete and comprehensive plans for roads, trails, telegraph and\n     telephone lines, sewer and water systems, hotel accommodations,\n     transportation, and other conveniences should be made before any\n     large amount of money is expended. The treatment of our national\n     parks, except as regards the Yellowstone, has not heretofore had\n     the benefit of any well-considered or systematic plans. In all of\n     them the road and trail problems for public travel and\n     convenience to enable tourists to obtain the benefits of scenic\n     beauties are primary, but sewage, water, and electric-power\n     problems are after all of equal importance.\n\n[Illustration: Fairy Falls in Goat Lick Basin, below Stevens Glacier.]\n\nIn line with Secretary Ballinger's report, Senator Flint of California\nintroduced a bill authorizing the creation of such a bureau in the\nInterior Department. The bill failed to get through at the last\nsession, but I am informed by Senator Jones that it will be\nreintroduced. Its purpose is of great public importance, and the\nindorsement of the very intelligent directors of the Sierra Club in\nCalifornia argues well for its form. Every person interested in the\ndevelopment of our National Parks to fullest usefulness and the proper\nconservation of their natural beauty should work for the passage of\nthe bill.\n\n[Illustration {p.076}: Copyright, 1897, By E. S. Curtis. Gibraltar and\nits Neighbors, showing a mile of the deeply crevassed ice-field inside\nthe angle of which the great crag is the apex. On the left are Cowlitz\nCleaver and the Bee-Hive; on the right, Cathedral Rocks.]\n\n{p.077}\n[Illustration: Crossing Carbon Glacier. On the ice slopes, it\nis customary to divide a large party into companies of ten, with an\nexperienced alpinist at the head of each. Note the medial moraines on\nthe glacier.]\n\n\n\n\nIII.\n\nTHE STORY OF THE MOUNTAIN.\n\n     I asked myself, How was this colossal work performed? Who\n     chiseled these mighty and picturesque masses out of a mere\n     protuberance of earth? And the answer was at hand. Ever young,\n     ever mighty, with the vigor of a thousand worlds still within\n     him, the real sculptor was even then climbing up the eastern sky.\n     It was he who planted the glaciers on the mountain slopes, thus\n     giving gravity a plough to open out the valleys; and it is he\n     who, acting through the ages, will finally lay low these mighty\n     monuments, * * * so that the people of an older earth may see\n     mould spread and corn wave over the hidden rocks which at this\n     moment bear the weight of the Jungfrau.--_John Tyndall: \"Hours of\n     Exercise in the Alps.\"_\n\n     The life of a glacier is one eternal grind.--_John Muir._\n\n\nOur stately Mountain, in its youth, was as comely and symmetrical a\ncone as ever graced the galaxy of volcanic peaks. To-day, while still\nyoung as compared with the obelisk crags of the Alps, it has already\ntaken on the venerable and deeply-scarred physiognomy of a veteran. It\nis no longer merely an overgrown boy among the hills, but, cut and\ntorn by the ice of centuries, it is fast assuming the dignity and\ninterest of a patriarch of the mountains.\n\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1897, By E. S. Curtis. Reflection Lake,\nbelow Pinnacle Peak and the Mountain.]\n\nTo some, no doubt, the smooth, youthful contours of an active volcano\nseem more beautiful than the rugged grandeur of the Weisshorn. The\nperfect cone of Mt. St. Helens, until recently in eruption, pleases\nthem more than the broad dome of Mt. Adams, rounded by an explosion in\nthe unknown past. But for those who love nature and the story written\nupon its {p.079} face, mountains have character as truly as men,\nand they show it in their features as clearly.\n\n[Illustration {p.078}: Looking up from Cowlitz Chimneys to Gibraltar\nand the summit. 1, Crater and Columbia's Crest. 2, Peak Success. 3,\nUpper snow fields of Nisqually Glacier. 4, Gibraltar Rock. 5, Cowlitz\nCleaver. 6, Cathedral Rocks. 7, Little Tahoma. 8, Cowlitz Glacier. 9,\nIngraham Glacier, emptying into the Cowlitz.]\n\n[Illustration: Divide of Paradise and Stevens Glaciers. Once probably\nseparated by a chine of rock, they are now one save for a slight\nelevation in their bed, which turns them respectively toward Paradise\nValley and Stevens Canyon.]\n\n[Illustration: Old Moraine of Stevens Glacier. Now comparatively small\nand harmless, this glacier did heavy work in its prime. Witness,\nStevens Canyon (p. 66) and this huge pile of debris, showing that some\ntime ago the glacier, finding a cliff in its way, cut it down and\ndumped it here.]\n\nNowhere is this better exemplified than in the monarch of the\nCascades. No longer the huge conical pimple which a volcano erected on\nthe earth's crust, it bears upon it the history of its own explosion,\nwhich scattered its top far over the landscape, and of its losing\nbattle with the sun, which, employing the heaviest of all {p.080}\ntools, is steadily destroying it. It has already lost a tenth of its\nheight and a third of its bulk. The ice is cutting deeper and deeper\ninto its sides. Upon three of them, it has excavated great\namphitheaters, which it is ceaselessly driving back toward the heart\nof the peak. As if to compensate for losses in size and shapeliness,\nthe Mountain presents the most important phenomena of glacial action\nto be seen in the United States.\n\n[Illustration: Climbers preparing for a night at Camp Muir (altitude\n10,000 feet), in order to get an early start for the summit. This is\non the Cowlitz Cleaver, below Gibraltar. John Muir, the famous\nmountain climber, selected this spot as a camp in 1888. A stout cabin\nshould be built here to shelter climbers.]\n\n[Illustration: The Bee-Hive, a landmark on Cowlitz Cleaver, below\nGibraltar.]\n\nIn its dimensions, however, it is still one of the world's great\npeaks. The Rainier National Park, eighteen miles square--as large as\nmany counties in the East--has an elevation along its western and\nlowest boundary averaging four thousand feet above sea level. Assuming\na diameter for the peak of only twenty miles, the {p.081} area\noccupied by this creature of a volcano exceeds three hundred square\nmiles. Of its vast surface upwards of 32,500 acres, or about fifty-one\nsquare miles, are covered by glaciers or the fields of perpetual snow\nwhich feed them. A straight line drawn through from the end of North\nTahoma glacier, on the west side, to the end of White glacier, on the\neast, would be thirteen miles long. The circumference of the crest on\nthe 10,000-foot contour is nearly seven miles. Its glacial system is,\nand doubtless has long been, the most extensive on the continent,\nsouth of Alaska; it is said by scientists to outrank that of any\nmountain in Europe. The twelve primary glaciers vary in length from\nthree to eight miles, and from half a mile to three miles in width.\nThere are nearly as many \"interglaciers,\" or smaller ice streams which\ngather their snow supply, not from the neve fields of the summit, but\nwithin the wedges of rock which the greater glaciers have left\npointing upward on the higher slopes.\n\n[Illustration: Mazama Club on Cowlitz Chimneys, looking across the\nice-stream of the Cowlitz Glacier.]\n\n[Illustration: Climbing Cowlitz Cleaver to Gibraltar. This hacked and\nweather-worn spine left by the glaciers forms one wing of a great\ninverted V, with Gibraltar as its apex. On the other side of it is a\ndrop of several thousand feet to Nisqually Glacier.]\n\nThe geological story may be told in a few untechnical words. As those\nfolds in the earth's crust which parallel the coast were slowly formed\nby the lateral pressure of sea upon land, fractures often occurred in\nthe general incline thus {p.082} created. Through the fissures that\nresulted the subterranean fires thrust molten rock. In many cases, the\nexpulsion was of sufficient amount and duration to form clearly\ndefined volcanic craters. The most active craters built up, by\ncontinued eruptions of lava and ashes, a great series of cones now\nseen on both sides of the Cordillera, that huge mountain system which\nborders the Pacific from Behring sea to the Straits of Magellan.\nTacoma-Rainier is one of the more important units in this army of\nvolcanic giants.\n\n[Illustration: Mazamas rounding Gibraltar--a reminiscence of the\nascent by the Portland club in 1905. The precipice rises more than\n1000 feet above the trail which offers a precarious footing at the\nhead of a steep slope of loose talus.]\n\nUnlike some of its companions, however, it owes its bulk less to lava\nflows than to the explosive eruptions which threw forth bombs and\nscoriae. It is a mass of agglomerates, with only occasional strata of\nsolid volcanic rock. This becomes evident to one who inspects the\nexposed sides of any of the canyons, or of the great cliffs, Gibraltar\nRock, Little Tahoma or Russell Peak. It is made clear in such pictures\nas are on this page and the next.\n\nThis looseness of structure accounts for the rapidity with which the\nglaciers are cutting into the peak, and carrying it away. Most of them\ncarry an extraordinary amount of debris, to be deposited in lateral or\nterminal moraines, or dropped in streams which they feed. They are\nrivers of rock as well as of ice.\n\n[Illustration: Under the walls of Gibraltar.]\n\n{p.083} That the glaciers of this and every other mountain in the\nnorthern hemisphere are receding, and that they are now mere pygmies\ncompared with their former selves, is well known. What their\ndestructive power must have been when their volume was many times\ngreater than now may be judged from the moraines along their former\nchannels. Some of these ridges are hundreds of feet in height. As you\ngo to the Mountain from Tacoma, either by the Tacoma Eastern railway\nor the Nisqually canyon road, you find them everywhere above the\nprairies. They are largest on the north side of the Mountain, because\nthere the largest glaciers have been busy. Many of them, on all sides,\nare covered with forests that must be centuries old.\n\nEven now, diminished as they are, the glaciers are fast transporting\nthe Mountain toward the sea. Wherever a glacier skirts a cliff, it is\ncutting into its side, as it cuts into its own bed below. From the\noverhanging rocks, too, debris falls as a result of \"weathering.\" The\ndaily ebb and flow of frost and heat help greatly to tear down the\ncliffs. Thus marginal moraines built of the debris begin to form, on\nthe ice, far up the side of the peak. As the glacier advances, driven\nby its weight and the resistless mass of snow above, it is often\njoined by another glacier, bringing its own marginal moraines. Where\nthe two meet, a medial moraine results. (See illustrations, pp. 68 and\n77.) Some medial moraines are many feet high. Trees are found growing\non them. In Switzerland houses are built upon them. Often the debris\nwhich they transport, as the ice carries them forward, includes rocks\nas big as a ship.\n\n[Illustration: One of the bedrooms at Camp Muir.]\n\n[Illustration {p.084}: A perilous position on the edge of a great\ncrevasse. Cowlitz Glacier, near end of Cathedral Rocks.]\n\nA glacier's flow varies from a hundred to a thousand feet or more a\nyear, depending upon {p.085} its volume, its width, and the slope of\nits bed. As the decades pass, its level is greatly lowered by the\nmelting of the ice. More and more, earth and rocks accumulate upon the\nsurface, as it travels onward, and are scattered over it by the rains\nand melting snow. At last, in its old age, when far down its canyon,\nthe glacier is completely hidden, save where crevasses reveal the ice.\nOnly at its snout, where it breaks off, as a rule, in a high wall of\nice, do we realize how huge a volume and weight it must have, far\nabove toward its sources, or why so many of the crevasses on the upper\nice fields seem almost bottomless.\n\n[Illustration: Climbing the \"Chute,\" west side of Gibraltar. Here the\nguides cut steps in the ice.]\n\nThese hints of the almost inconceivable mass of a glacier, with its\nmillions of millions of tons, suggest how much of the Mountain has\nalready been whittled and planed away. But here we may do better than\nspeculate. The original surface of the peak is clearly indicated by\nthe tops of the great rocks which have survived the glacial\nsculpturing. These rise from one to two thousand feet above the\nglaciers, which are themselves several thousand feet in depth. The\nbest known of them is the point formed by Gibraltar and the ridges\nthat stretch downward from it, Cowlitz Cleaver and Cathedral Rocks,\nmaking a great inverted V. Eastward of this, another V with its apex\ntoward the summit, is called Little Tahoma; and beyond, still another,\nSteamboat Prow, forming the tip of \"The Wedge.\"\n\nSpines of rock like these are found on all sides of the peak. They\nhelp us to estimate its greater circumference and bulk, before the\nglaciers had chiseled so deep.\n\n[Illustration: Looking from top of Gibraltar to the Summit. Elevation\nof camera, 12,300 feet. In distance is seen the rim of the crater. The\nroute to this is a steady climb, with 2,000 feet of ascent in one mile\nof distance. Many detours have to be made to avoid crevasses. Note the\nbig crevasse stretching away on right--a \"Bergschrund,\" as the Swiss\ncall a break where one side falls below the other. The stratification\non its side shows in each layer a year's snow, packed into ice.]\n\n{p.086} But they do even more. Wherever lava flows occurred in the\nbuilding of the Mountain, strata formed; and such stratification is\nclearly seen at intervals on the sides of the great rocks just\nmentioned. Its incline, of course, is that of the former surface. The\nstrata point upward--not toward the summit which we see, but far above\nit. For this reason the geologists who have examined the aretes most\nclosely are agreed that the peak has lost nearly two thousand feet of\nits height. It blew its own head off!\n\nSuch explosive eruptions are among the worst vices of volcanoes. Every\nvisitor to Naples remembers how plainly the landscape north of\nVesuvius tells of a prehistoric decapitation, which left only a low,\nbroad platform, on the south rim of which the little Vesuvius that\nmany of us have climbed was formed by later eruptions, while a part of\nthe north rim is well defined in \"Monte Somma.\" Similarly, here at\nhome, Mt. Adams and Mt. Baker are truncated cones, while, on the other\nhand, St. Helens and Hood are still symmetrical.\n\nLike Vesuvius, too, Rainier-Tacoma has built upon the plateau left\nwhen it lost its head. Peak Success, overlooking Indian Henry's, and\nLiberty Cap, the northern elevation, seen from Seattle and Tacoma, are\nnearly three miles apart on the west side of the broad summit. These\nare parts of the rim of the old crater. East of the line uniting them,\nand about two miles from each, the volcano built up an elevation now\nknown as Crater Peak, comprising two small adjacent craters. These\nburnt-out craters are now filled with snow, and where the rims touch,\na big snow-hill rises--the strange creature of eddying winds that\nsweep up through the great flume cut by volcanic explosion and\nglacial action in the west side of the peak. (See pp. 14, 27, and 52.)\n\n[Illustration {p.087}: View South from Cowlitz Glacier: elevation,\n8,000 feet. Seven miles away are the huge eastern peaks of the\nTatoosh. The Cascades beyond break in Cispus Pass, and rise, on the\nleft, to the glacier summits called Goat Peaks. The truncated cone of\nMt. Adams, more than forty miles away, crowns the sky-line.]\n\n{p.088}\n[Illustration: These views show the larger of the two comparatively\nmodern and small craters on the broad platform left by the explosion\nwhich decapitated the Peak. Prof. Flett measured this crater, and\nfound it 1,600 feet from north to south, and 1,450 feet from east to\nwest. The other, much smaller, adjoins it so closely that their rims\ntouch. Together they form an eminence of 1,000 feet (Crater Peak), at\na distance of about two miles from North Peak (Liberty Cap) and South\nPeak (Peak Success). At the junction of their rims is the great snow\nhill (on right of view) called \"Columbia's Crest.\" This is the actual\nsummit. The volcano having long been inactive, the craters are filled\nwith snow, but the residual heat causes steam and gases to escape in\nplaces along their rims.]\n\n[Illustration {p.089}]\n\nThis mound of snow is the present actual top. Believing it the highest\npoint in the United States south of Alaska, a party of climbers, in\n1894, named it \"Columbia's Crest.\" This was long thought to be the\nMountain's rightful distinction, for different computations by experts\ngave various elevations ranging as high as 14,529 feet, with none\nprior to 1902 giving less than 14,444 feet. Even upon a government map\npublished as late as 1907 the height is stated as 14,526 feet. In view\nof this variety of expert opinion, the flattering name, not\nunnaturally, has stuck, in spite of the fact that the government\ngeographers have now adopted, for the Dictionary of Altitudes, the\nheight found by the United States Geological Survey in 1902, 14,363\nfeet. That decision leaves the honor of being the loftiest peak\nbetween Alaska and Mexico to Mt. Whitney in the California Sierra\n(14,502 feet).\n\n[Illustration: Steam Caves in one of the craters. The residual heat of\nthe extinct volcano causes steam and gases to escape from vents in the\nrims of the two small craters. Alpinists often spend a night in the\ncaves thus formed in the snow.]\n\n{p.089}\n[Illustration: North Peak, named \"Liberty Cap\" because of its\nresemblance to the Bonnet Rouge of the French Revolutionists.\nElevation, about 14,000 feet. View taken from the side of Crater Peak.\nDistance, nearly two miles.]\n\nThe definitive map of the National Park which was begun last summer by\nthe Geological Survey, with Mr. Francois E. Matthes in charge, will\nestablish the elevations of all important landmarks in the Park. Among\nthese will be the Mountain itself. Whether this will add much, if\nanything, to the current figure of the Dictionary is uncertain. In any\ncase, the result will not lessen the pride of the Northwest in its\ngreat peak. A few feet of height signify nothing. No California\nmountain masked behind the Sierra can vie in majesty with this lonely\npile that rises in stately grandeur from the shores of Puget Sound.\n\n[Illustration {p.090}: Goat Peaks, glacier summits in the Cascades,\nsoutheast of the Mountain. Elevation, about 8,000 feet, A branch of\nthe Cowlitz is seen flowing down from the glaciers above.]\n\n[Illustration {p.091}: Copyright 1907, By W. P. Romans. Spray Park,\nfrom Fay Peak, showing the beautiful region between the Carbon and\nNorth Mowich Glaciers.]\n\n{p.093}\n[Illustration: Ice-bound Lake in Cowlitz Park, with top of\nLittle Tahoma in distance.]\n\n[Illustration: Crevasses in Cowlitz Glacier, with waterfall dropping\nfrom Cowlitz Park, over basaltic cliffs.]\n\nThe wide area which the Mountain thrusts far up into the sky is a\nhighly efficient condenser of moisture. Near to the Pacific as it is,\nits broad summit and upper slopes collect several hundred feet of snow\neach year from the warm Chinooks blowing in from the west. On all\nsides this vast mass presses down, hardened into solid granular neve,\nto feed the twelve primary glaciers. Starting eastward from Paradise\nValley, these principal ice-streams are: Cowlitz and Ingraham\nglaciers; White or White River glacier, largest of all; Winthrop\nglacier, named in honor of Theodore Winthrop, in whose romance of\ntravel, \"The Canoe and the Saddle,\" the ancient Indian name \"Tacoma\"\nwas first printed; Carbon, North and South Mowich, Puyallup, North and\nSouth Tahoma, Kautz and Nisqually glaciers. The most important\nsecondary glaciers, or \"interglaciers,\" rising within the great rock\nwedges which I have described, are called Interglacier, Frying-Pan,\n{p.094} Stevens, Paradise and Van Trump. All of these are of the true\nAlpine type; that is, they are moving rivers of ice, as distinguished\nfrom \"continental glaciers,\" the ice caps which cover vast regions in\nthe Arctic and Antarctic.\n\n[Illustration: Crossing a precipitous slope on White Glacier. Little\nTahoma in distance.]\n\nIn thus naming the glaciers, I have followed the time-honored local\nusage, giving the names applied by the earliest explorers and since\nused with little variation in the Northwest. There has been some\nconfusion, however, chiefly owing to a recent government map. For\ninstance, in that publication, White glacier, properly so called\nbecause it is the main feeder of the White river, was named Emmons\nglacier, after S. F. Emmons, a geologist who was one of the first to\nvisit it. It is interesting to note that in his reports Mr. Emmons\nhimself called this the White River glacier. On the other hand, the\nmap mentioned, after displacing the name White from the larger glacier\nto which it logically belongs, gave it to the ice-stream feeding\nanother branch of the White river, namely, the glacier always locally\ncalled the Winthrop, and so called by Prof. Russell in his report to\nthe Geological Survey in 1897.\n\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1910, By S. C. Smith. Climbing Goat Peaks,\nin the Cascades, with the Mountain twenty miles away.]\n\n[Illustration {p.095}: Looking up White Glacier (right), from a point\non its lower end, showing vast amount of morainal debris carried down\nby this glacier. Little Tahoma in middle distance; Gibraltar and\nCathedral Rocks on extreme right; \"Goat Island\" on left. Elevation of\ncamera, about 4,500 feet. Note the \"cloud banner\" which the crag has\nflung to the breeze.]\n\n{p.096}\n[Illustration: The Mountain seen from the top of Cascade\nrange, with party starting west over the forest trails for Paradise.]\n\n[Illustration: Great moraine built by Frying-Pan Glacier on side of\n\"Goat Island.\"]\n\nSimilarly, North and South Mowich, names of the streams to which they\ngive birth, were miscalled Willis and Edmunds glaciers, after Bailey\nWillis, geologist, and George F. Edmunds, late United States senator,\nwho visited the Mountain many years ago. The Mowich rivers were so\nnamed by the Indians from the fact that, in the great rocks on the\nnorthwest side of the peak, just below the summit, they saw the figure\nof the mowich, or deer. The deer of rock is there still--he may be\nseen in several pictures in this volume,--and so long as he keeps to\nhis icy pasture it will be difficult to displace his name from the\nglaciers and rivers below. The southern branch of the great Tahoma\nglacier, locally called South Tahoma glacier, this map renamed Wilson\nglacier, for A. D. Wilson, Emmons's companion in exploration. Finally,\nthe name of General Hazard Stevens, who, {p.097} with Mr. Van Trump,\nmade the first ascent of the peak in 1870, was misplaced, being given\nto the west branch of the Nisqually, whereas the general usage has\nfixed the name of that pioneer upon the well-defined interglacier east\nof the Paradise, and above Stevens canyon, which in its prime it\ncarved on the side of the Mountain. General Stevens himself writes me\nfrom Boston that this is the correct usage.\n\n[Illustration: Coming around Frying-Pan Glacier, below Little Tahoma.]\n\nSuch errors in an official document are the more inexcusable because\ntheir author ignored local names recognized in the earlier\npublications of the government and its agents. In such matters, too,\nthe safe principle is to follow local custom where that is logical and\nestablished. The new map prepared by Mr. Ricksecker, and printed\nherewith, returns to the older and better usage. Unless good reason\ncan be shown for departing from it, his careful compilation should be\nfollowed. Willis Wall, above Carbon Glacier, appropriately recalls the\nwork of Bailey Willis. The explorations of Emmons and Wilson may well\nbe commemorated by landmarks as yet unnamed, not by displacing fit\nnames long current.\n\nIn connection with his survey of the Park, Mr. Matthes has been\nauthorized to collect local testimony as to established names within\nthat area, and to invite suggestions as to appropriate names for\nlandmarks not yet definitely named. His report will doubtless go to\nthe National Geographic Board for final decision on the names\nrecommended. Thus, in time, we may hope to see this awkward and\nconfusing tangle in mountain nomenclature straightened out.\n\n[Illustration: Sunrise above the clouds, seen from Camp Curtis, on the\nWedge, (altitude 9,500 feet); White Glacier below. This camp was named\nby the Mountaineers in 1909, in honor of Asahel Curtis, the Seattle\nclimber.]\n\n{p.098}\n[Illustration: Looking up from \"Snipe Lake,\" a small pond below\nInterglacier, to the head of Winthrop Glacier and Liberty Cap.]\n\nThe written history of the Mountain begins with its discovery by\nCaptain George Vancouver. Its first appearance upon a map occurs in\nVancouver's well-known report, published in 1798, after his death:\n\"Voyage of Discovery to the North Pacific Ocean and around the World,\n1790-1795.\"\n\nIt was in the summer of 1792, shortly after Vancouver had entered the\nSound, he tells us, that he first saw \"a very remarkable high round\nmountain, covered with snow, apparently at the southern extremity of\nthe distant snowy range.\" A few days later he again mentions \"the\nround snowy mountain,\" \"which, after my friend Rear-Admiral Rainier, I\ndistinguished by the name of Mount Rainier.\" Nearly all of Captain\nVancouver's friends were thus distinguished, at the cost of the Indian\nnames, to which doubtless he gave no thought. Sonorous \"Kulshan\" and\nunique \"Whulge\" were lost, in order that we might celebrate \"Mr.\nBaker\" and \"Mr. Puget,\" junior officers of Vancouver's expedition.\n\n[Illustration: Passing a big crevasse on Interglacier. Sour-Dough\nMountains on the right, with Grand Park beyond: St. Elmo Pass in\ncenter, Snipe Lake and Glacier Basin in depression.]\n\n[Illustration {p.099}: View north from Mt. Ruth (part of the Wedge), with\nInterglacier in foreground, the Snipe Lake country below, Sour-Dough\nMountains on right, Grand Park in middle distance, and Mt. Baker, with\nthe summits of the Selkirks, far away in Canada, on the horizon.]\n\n{p.100}\n[Illustration: Camp on St. Elmo Pass, north side of the Wedge, between\nWinthrop Glacier and Interglacier. Elevation, 9,000 feet. Winthrop\nGlacier and the fork of White River which it feeds are seen in\ndistance below. The man is Maj. E. S. Ingraham, a veteran explorer of\nthe Mountain, after whom Ingraham Glacier is named.]\n\n[Illustration: East face of the Mountain, from south side of the\nWedge, showing route to the summit over White Glacier.]\n\nHappily, the fine Indian name \"Tacoma\" was not offered up a sacrifice\nto such obscurity. Forgotten as he is now, Peter Rainier was, in his\ntime, something of a figure. After some ransacking of libraries, I\nhave found a page that gives us a glimpse of a certain hard-fought\nthough unequal combat, in the year 1778, between an American privateer\nand two British ships. It is of interest in connection with \"Mount\nRainier,\" the name recognized by the Geographic Board at Washington in\n1889 as official.\n\n     On the 8th of July, the 14-gun ship Ostrich, Commander Peter\n     Rainier, on the Jamaica station, in company with the 10-gun armed\n     brig Lowestoffe's Prize, chased a large brig. After a long run,\n     the Ostrich brought the brig, which was the American privateer\n     Polly, to action, and, after an engagement of three hours'\n     duration (by which time the Lowestoffe's Prize had arrived up and\n     {p.101} taken part in the contest), compelled her to surrender.\n     * * * * Captain Rainier was wounded by a musket ball through the\n     left breast; he could not, however, be prevailed upon to go\n     below, but remained on deck till the close of the action. He was\n     posted, and appointed to command the 64-gun ship Burford.\n     (_Allen: \"Battles of the British Navy,\"_ Vol. I., London, 1872).\n\n[Illustration: Admiral Peter Rainier, of the British Navy, in whose\nhonor Captain George Vancouver, in 1792, named the great peak \"Mt.\nRainier.\"]\n\nBefore quitting with Vancouver and eighteenth-century history of the\nMountain, I note that our peak enjoyed a further honor. Captain\nVancouver records an interesting event that took place on the\nanniversary of King George's birth;--\"on which auspicious day,\" he\nsays, \"I had long since designed to take formal possession of all the\ncountries we had lately been employed in exploring, in the name of,\nand for, His Britannic Majesty, his heirs and successors.\" And he did!\n\n[Illustration: First picture of the Mountain, from Vancouver's \"Voyage\nof Discovery,\" London, 1798.]\n\nAfter Vancouver's brief mention, and the caricature of our peak\nprinted in his work, literature is practically silent about the\nMountain for more than sixty years. Those years witnessed the failure\nof England's memorable struggle to make good Vancouver's \"annexation.\"\nOregon was at last a state. Out of its original area Washington\nTerritory had just been carved. In that year of 1853 {p.102} came\nTheodore Winthrop, of the old New England family, who was destined to\na lasting and pathetic fame as an author of delightful books and a\nvictim of the first battle of the Civil War. Sailing into what is now\nthe harbor of the city of Tacoma, he there beheld the peak. We feel\nhis enthusiasm as he tells of the appeal it made to him.\n\n[Illustration: Climbers on St. Elmo Pass, seen from the upper side.]\n\n[Illustration: St. Elmo Pass from north side. The name was given by\nMaj. Ingraham in 1886 because of a remarkable exhibition of St. Elmo's\nfire seen here during a great storm. A cabin is needed at this\nimportant crossing.]\n\n[Illustration: Avalanche Camp (11,000 feet), on the high, ragged chine\nbetween Carbon and Winthrop. Carbon Glacier, seen below, has cut\nthrough a great range, leaving Mother Mountains on the left and the\nSluiskins, right.]\n\n     We had rounded a point, and opened Puyallop Bay, a breadth of\n     sheltered calmness, when I was suddenly aware of a vast white\n     shadow in the water. What cloud, piled massive on the horizon,\n     could cast an image so sharp in outline, so full of vigorous\n     detail of surface? No cloud, but a cloud compeller. It was a\n     giant mountain dome of snow, swelling and seeming to fill the\n     aerial spheres, as its image displaced the blue deeps of tranquil\n     water. Only its splendid snows were visible, high in the\n     unearthly regions of clear blue noonday sky.\n\n     Kingly and alone stood this majesty, without any visible consort,\n     though far to the north and the south its brethren and sisters\n     dominated their realms. Of all the peaks from California to\n     {p.103} Frazer's River, this one before me was royalest. Mount\n     Regnier[5] Christians have dubbed it, in stupid nomenclature\n     perpetuating the name of somebody or nobody. More melodiously the\n     Siwashes call it Tacoma,--a generic term also applied to all snow\n     peaks. Tacoma, under its ermine, is a crushed volcanic dome, or\n     an ancient volcano fallen in, and perhaps not yet wholly\n     lifeless. The domes of snow are stateliest. There may be more of\n     feminine beauty in the cones, and more of masculine force and\n     hardihood in the rough pyramids, but the great domes are calmer\n     and more divine.\n\n              [Footnote 5: Winthrop's error was a common one at that\n              time and has remained current till to-day. The admiral's\n              grandfather, the Huguenot exile, was \"Regnier,\" but his\n              descendants anglicized the patronymic into \"Rainier.\"]\n\n     No foot of man had ever trampled those pure snows. It was a\n     virginal mountain, distant from human inquisitiveness as a marble\n     goddess is from human loves. Yet there was nothing unsympathetic\n     in its isolation, or despotic in its distant majesty. Only the\n     thought of eternal peace arose from this heaven-upbearing\n     monument like incense, and, overflowing, filled the world with\n     deep and holy calm.\n\n     Our lives demand visual images that can be symbols to us of the\n     grandeur or the sweetness of repose. The noble works of nature,\n     and mountains most of all,\n\n                        \"have power to make\n  Our noisy years seem moments in the being\n  Of the eternal silence.\"\n\n     And, studying the light and the majesty of Tacoma, there passed\n     from it and entered into my being a thought and image of solemn\n     beauty, which I could thenceforth evoke whenever in the world I\n     must {p.104} have peace or die. For such emotion years of\n     pilgrimage were worthily spent. (\"_The Canoe and the Saddle_,\"\n     published posthumously in 1862).\n\n[Illustration: Russell Peak, from Avalanche Camp, 2,500 feet below.\nNamed for Prof. Israel C. Russell, geologist.]\n\n[Illustration: Looking up Winthrop Glacier from Avalanche Camp.]\n\n[Illustration: Looking across Winthrop Glacier from Avalanche Camp to\nSteamboat Prow (the Wedge) and St. Elmo Pass. Elevation of camera,\n11,000 feet.]\n\nIn the controversy over the Mountain's name, some persons have been\nmisled into imaging Winthrop a fabricator of pseudo-Indian\nnomenclature. But his work bears scrutiny. He wrote before there was\nany dispute as to the name, or any rivalry between towns to confound\npartisanship with scholarship. He was in the Territory while Captain\nGeorge B. McClellan, was surveying the Cascades to find a pass for a\nrailroad. He was in close touch with McClellan's party, and doubtless\nknew well its able ethnologist, George Gibbs, the Harvard man whose\nworks on the Indian languages of the Northwest are the foundation of\nall later books in that field. Although he first learned it from the\nIndians, in all likelihood he discussed the name \"Tacoma\" with Gibbs,\nwho was already collecting material for his writings, published in the\n{p.107} report of the Survey and in the \"Contributions\" of the\nSmithsonian Institution. Among these are the vocabularies of a score\nof Indian dialects, which must be mentioned here because they are\nconclusive as to the form, meaning and application of the name.\n\n[Illustration {p.105}: View south from the Sluiskin Mountains across\nMoraine Park to the head of Carbon Glacier. Elevation of camera, 6,500\nfeet. Moraine Park, below, was until recently the bed of an\ninterglacier. On the extreme left, Avalanche Camp and Russell Peak are\nseen between Carbon and Winthrop Glaciers.]\n\n[Illustration {p.106}: Portion of Spray Park, with north-side view of\nthe Mountain, showing Observation Rock and timber line. Elevation of\ncamera, 7,000 feet.]\n\n[Illustration: Climbing the seracs of Winthrop Glacier.]\n\nIn his vocabulary of the Winatsha (Wenatchee) language, Gibbs entered:\n\"T'koma, snow peak.\" In that of the Niswalli (Nisqually), he noted:\n\"Takob, the name of Mt. Rainier.\" \"T'kope,\" Chinook for white, is\nevidently closely allied. Gibbs himself tells us that the Northwestern\ndialects treated b and m as convertible. \"Takob\" is equivalent to\n\"Takom\" or \"T'koma.\" Far, then, from coining the word, Winthrop did\nnot even change its Indian form, as some have supposed, by modifying\nthe mouth-filling \"Tahoma\" of the Yakimas into the simpler, stronger\nand more musical \"Tacoma.\" This is as pure Indian as the other, and\nWinthrop's popularization of the word was a public service, as\nperpetuating one of the most significant of our Indian place-names.\n\nI have said thus much, not to revive a musty and, to me, very amusing\nquarrel, but because correspondents in different parts of the country\nhave asked regarding facts that are naturally part of the history of\nthe Mountain. Some would even have me stir the embers of that ancient\ncontroversy. For instance, here is the _Bulletin of the Geographical\nSociety of Philadelphia_ taking me to task:\n\n     This book would also do a great service if it would help\n     popularize the name \"Tacoma\" in spite of the Mountain's official\n     designation \"Rainier\"--a name to which it has no right when its\n     old Indian name is at once so beautiful and appropriate. It is to\n     be regretted that a more vigorous protest has not been made\n     against the modern name, and also against such propositions as\n     that of changing \"Narada Falls\" to \"Cushman Falls.\"\n\n[Illustration: Ice pinnacles on the Carbon.]\n\nThe mistaken attempt to displace the name of Narada Falls was\nstill-born from the start, and needed no help to kill it. There are\nmany unnamed landmarks {p.108} in the National Park ready to\ncommemorate Mr. Cushman's ambition to make the Mountain a real\npossession of all the people. As to the other matter--the name of the\npeak itself,--that may safely be left to the American sense of humor.\nBut what I have said is due in justice to Winthrop, one of the finest\nfigures in our literary history. His work in making the peak known\ndemands that his name, given by local gratitude to one of its\nimportant glaciers, shall not be removed.\n\n[Illustration: Among the ice bridges of the Carbon.]\n\nA word about the industrial value of the Mountain may not be without\ninterest in this day of electricity. Within a radius of sixty miles of\nthe head of Puget Sound, more water descends from high levels to the\nsea than in any other similar area in the United States. A great part\nof this is collected on the largest peak. Hydraulic engineers have\nestimated, on investigation, an average annual precipitation, for the\nsummit and upper slopes, of at least 180 inches, or four times the\nrainfall in Tacoma or Seattle. The melting snows feed the White,\nPuyallup and Nisqually rivers, large streams flowing into the Sound,\nand the Cowlitz, an important tributary of the Columbia. The minimum\nflow of these streams is computed at more than 1200 second feet, while\ntheir average flow is nearly twice that total.\n\nThe utilization of this large water supply on the steep mountain\nslopes began in 1904 with the erection of the Electron plant of the\nPuget Sound Power Company. For this the water is diverted from the\nPuyallup river ten miles from the end of its glacier, and 1750 feet\nabove sea level, and carried ten miles more in an open flume to a\nreservoir, from which four steel penstocks, each four feet in\ndiameter, drop it to the power house 900 feet below. The plant\ngenerates 28,000 horse power, which is conveyed to Tacoma, twenty-five\nmiles distant, at a pressure of 60,000 volts, and there is distributed\nfor the operation of street railways, lights and factories in that\ncity and Seattle.\n\n[Illustration {p.109}: Mountain Climbers in Crevasse on Carbon\nGlacier.]\n\nA more important development is in progress on the larger White river\nnear Buckley, where the Pacific Coast Power Company is diverting the\nwater by a dam and eight-mile canal to Lake Tapps, elevation 540 feet\nabove tide. From this {p.111} great reservoir it will be taken\nthrough a tunnel and pipe line to the generating plant at Dieringer,\nelevation 65 feet. The 100,000 horse power ultimately to be produced\nhere will be carried fifteen miles to Tacoma, for sale to\nmanufacturers in the Puget Sound cities.\n\n[Illustration]\n\n[Illustration: Building Tacoma's Electric Power Plant on the Nisqually\nCanyon. Upper view shows site of retention dam, above tunnel; middle\nview, end of tunnel, where pipeline crosses the canyon on a bridge;\nlower view, site of the generating plant (see p. 21).]\n\n[Illustration]\n\nBoth these plants are enterprises of Stone & Webster, of Boston. A\ncompetitive plant is now nearing completion by the city of Tacoma,\nutilizing the third of the rivers emptying into the Sound. The\nNisqually is dammed above its famous canyon, at an elevation of 970\nfeet, where its minimum flow is 300 second feet. The water will be\ncarried through a 10,000-foot tunnel and over a bridge to a reservoir\nat La Grande, from which the penstocks will carry it down the side of\nthe canyon {p.112} to the 40,000 horse-power generating plant built\non a narrow shelf a few feet above the river. The city expects to be\nable to produce power for its own use, with a considerable margin for\nsale, at a cost at least as low as can be attained anywhere in the\nUnited States.\n\n[Illustration: Hydro-electric plant at Electron, on the Puyallup\nRiver, producing 28,000 h. p.]\n\nThe rocks of which the Mountain is composed are mainly andesites of\ndifferent classes and basalt. But the peak rests upon a platform of\ngranite, into which the glaciers have cut in their progress. Fine\nexposures of the older and harder rock are seen on the Nisqually, just\nbelow the present end of its glacier, as well as on the Carbon and in\nMoraine Park. This accounts for the fact that the river beds are full\nof granite bowlders, which are grinding the softer volcanic shingle\ninto soil. Thus the glaciers are not only fast deforming the peak.\nThey are \"sowing the seeds of continents to be.\"\n\n[Illustration: Cutting canal to divert White River into Lake Tapps.]\n\n{p.113}\n[Illustration: Mystic Lake in Moraine Park.]\n\n\n\n\nIV.\n\nTHE CLIMBERS.\n\n     Climb the mountains, and get their good tidings. Nature's peace\n     will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will\n     blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy,\n     while cares will drop off like autumn leaves.--_John Muir._\n\n     Upwards--towards the peaks, towards the stars, and towards the\n     great silence!--_Ibsen._\n\n\nGiven good muscles and wind, the other requisites for an ascent of the\nMountain are a competent guide and grit. It offers few problems like\nthose confronting the climber of the older and more crag-like Alps.\nThere are no perpendicular cliffs to scale, no abysses to swing across\non a rope. If you can stand the punishment of a long up-hill pull,\nover loose volcanic talus and the rough ice, you may safely join a\nparty for Gibraltar Rock and the summit. But the ascent should not be\nattempted without first spending some time in \"try-outs\" on lower\nelevations, both to prepare one's muscles for climbing and descending\nsteep slopes, and to accustom one's lungs to the rarer atmosphere of\nhigh altitudes. Such preparation will save much discomfort, including,\nperhaps, a visit of \"mountain sickness.\"\n\n[Illustration: Glacier Table on Winthrop Glacier. This phenomenon is\ndue to the melting of the glacier, save where sheltered by the rock.\nUnder the sun's rays, these \"tables\" incline more and more to the\nsouth, until they slide off their pedestals.]\n\nAnother warning must be given to the general tourist. Do not try to\nclimb the Mountain without guides. The seasoned alpinist, of course,\nwill trust to previous experience on other peaks, and may find his\nclimb here comparatively safe and easy. But the fate of {p.115} T.\nY. Callaghan and Joseph W. Stevens, of Trenton, N. J., who perished on\nthe glaciers in August, 1909, should serve as a warning against\nover-confidence. Unless one has intimate acquaintance with the ways of\nthe great ice peaks, he should never attack such a wilderness of\ncrevasses and shifting snow-slopes save in company of those who know\nits fickle trails.\n\n[Illustration {p.114}: Carbon River below its Gorge, and Mother\nMountains. This range was so named because of a rude resemblance to\nthe up-turned face of a woman seen here in the sky-line, while the\nview of snowy Liberty Cap beyond and the milky whiteness of the stream\ngave rise to the pleasing fiction that the Indian name of the peak\nmeant \"nourishing breast.\" \"Tacoma\" meant simply the Snow Mountain.]\n\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1910, By C. E. Cutter. Oldest and youngest\nclimbers, Gen. Hazard Stevens and Jesse McRae. General Stevens, with\nP. B. Van Trump, in 1870, made the first ascent. In 1905, he came west\nfrom Boston and joined the Mazamas in their climb. The picture shows\nhim before his tent in Paradise Park. He was then 63 years old.]\n\nUnder the experienced guides, many climbers reach Crater Peak each\nsummer, and no accidents of a serious nature have occurred. The\nsuccessful climbers numbered one hundred and fifty-nine in 1910. Many\nmore go only as far as Gibraltar, or even to McClure Rock (Elevation,\n7,385 feet), and are well rewarded by the magnificent views which\nthese points command of the south-side glaciers and aretes, with the\nranges lying below. The name \"McClure Rock\" is a memorial of the\nsaddest tragedy of the Mountain. Over the slope below this landmark\nProf. Edgar McClure of the University of Oregon fell to his death on\nthe night of July 27, 1897. He had spent the day in severe scientific\nlabor on the summit, and was hurrying down in the moonlight, much\nwearied, to Reese's Camp for the night. Going ahead of his companions,\nto find a safe path for them, he called back that the ice was too\nsteep. Then there was silence. Either he slipped in trying to\nre-ascend the slope, or he fainted from exhaustion. His body was found\non the rocks below by his comrades of the Mazama Club.\n\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1897, By E. S. Curtis. P. B. Van Trump, on\nhis old campground, above Sluiskin Falls, where he and Gen. Stevens\ncamped in 1870.]\n\nIf one is going the popular route and is equal to so long and unbroken\na climb, he may start with his guide from Reese's before dawn, and be\non Columbia's Crest by 11 o'clock. But climbers frequently go up\nCowlitz Cleaver in the evening, and spend the night at Camp Muir (see\npp. 60 and 80). This ledge below Gibraltar gets its name from John\nMuir, the famous mountaineer, who, on his ascent in 1888, suggested it\nas a camping place because the presence of pumice indicated the\n{p.116} absence of severe winds. It offers none of the conveniences\nof a camp save a wind-break, and even in that respect no one has ever\nsuffered for want of fresh air. It is highly desirable that a cabin be\nerected here for the convenience of climbers. Such shelters as the\nAlpine clubs have built on the high shoulders of many peaks in\nSwitzerland are much needed, not only at Muir, but also on the Wedge,\nas well as inside one of the craters, where, doubtless a way might be\nfound to utilize the residuary heat of the volcano for the comfort of\nthe climbers.\n\n[Illustration: Lower Spray Park, with Mother Mountains beyond. One of\nthe most beautiful alpine vales in the great Spray Park region.]\n\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1909, By J. Edward B. Greene.\nJohn Muir, President of the Sierra Club and foremost of American\nmountaineers\n\n  \"His daily teachers had been woods and rills,\n  The silence that is in the starry sky,\n  The sleep that is among the lonely hills.\"]\n\nGoing to the summit by this route, the important thing is to pass\nGibraltar early, before the sun starts the daily shower of icicles and\nrocks from the cliff over the narrow trail (see p. 83). This is the\nmost dangerous point, but no lives have been lost here. Everywhere, of\ncourse, caution is needed, and strict obedience to the {p.117} guide.\nOnce up the steep flume caused by the melting of the ice where it\nborders the rock (p. 85), the climber threads his way among the\ncrevasses and snow-mounds for nearly two miles, until the crater is\nreached (pp. 86, 88, 89).\n\n[Illustration: Coasting in Moraine Park in the August sunshine.]\n\nThe east-side route (p. 100) involves less danger, perhaps, but it is\na longer climb, with no resting places or wind-breaks. It has been\nused less, because it is farther from Paradise Valley. Starting from a\nnight's encampment on the Wedge (p. 97), parties descend to White\nglacier, and, over its steep incline of dazzling ice, gain the summit\nin eight or nine hours.\n\n[Illustration: Sunset on Crater Lake, north of Spray Park, with the\nMountain in distance.]\n\nThe first attempt to scale the Mountain was made in 1857 by Lieutenant\n(later General) A. V. Kautz. There is no foundation for the claim\nsometimes heard that Dr. W. F. Tolmie, Hudson's Bay Company agent at\nFort Nisqually, who made a botanizing trip to the lower slopes in\n1833, attempted the peak. Lieutenant Kautz, with two companions from\nfort Steilacoom, climbed the arete between the glacier now named after\nhim and the Nisqually glacier, but fearing a night on the summit, and\nknowing nothing of the steam caves in the crater, he turned back when\nprobably at the crest of the south peak. Writing in the _Overland\nMonthly_ for May, 1875, he says that, \"although there were points\nhigher yet, the {p.120} Mountain spread out comparatively flat,\"\nhaving the form of \"a ridge perhaps two miles in length, with an angle\nabout half-way, and depressions between the angle and each end of the\nridge, which gave the summit the appearance of three small peaks.\"\n\n[Illustration {p.118}: Copyright, 1909, By Asahel Curtis. Amphitheatre\nof Carbon Glacier, the most noteworthy example of glacial sculpture\nupon the Mountain. It is nearly three miles wide. No other glacier has\ncut so deeply into the side of the peak. The Carbon was once two\nglaciers, separated by a ridge, of which a remnant is still seen in\nthe huge spine of rock extending down from Liberty Cap.]\n\n[Illustration {p.119}: Photo By Lea Bronson. Copyright, 1909, By P. V.\nCaesar. Avalanche falling on Willis Wall, at head of Carbon Glacier\namphitheatre. The cliff, up to the snow cap on the summit, is more\nthan 4,000 feet high and nearly perpendicular. Avalanches fall every\nday, but this picture of a big one in action is probably unique.\nWillis Wall was named for Bailey Willis, the geologist.]\n\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1909, By A. H. Waite. Birth of Carbon\nRiver, with part of Willis Wall visible in distance. The great height\nof this ice front appears on noting the man near the river.]\n\nIt was not until August 17, 1870, thirteen years after Kautz's partial\nvictory, that the Mountain was really conquered. This was by P. B. Van\nTrump of Yelm and Hazard Stevens, son of the first governor of\nWashington, who had distinguished himself in the Civil War, and was\nthen living at Olympia as a Federal revenue officer. Each of these\npioneers on the summit has published an interesting account of how\nthey got there, General Stevens in the _Atlantic Monthly_ for\nNovember, 1876, and Mr. Van Trump in the second volume of _Mazama_. In\nStevens's article, \"The Ascent of Takhoma,\" his acquaintance with the\nIndians of the early territorial period, gives weight to this note:\n\n     Tak-ho-ma or Ta-ho-ma among the Yakimas, Klickitats, Puyallups,\n     Nisquallys and allied tribes is the generic term for mountain,\n     used precisely as we use the word \"Mount,\" as Takhoma Wynatchie,\n     or Mount Wynatchie. But they all designate Rainier simply as\n     Takhoma, or The Mountain, just as the mountain men used to call\n     it \"Old He.\"\n\nSluiskin, an Indian celebrity whom they employed as a guide, led the\nyoung men the longest and hardest way, taking them over the Tatoosh\nmountains instead of directly up the Nisqually and Paradise canyons.\nFrom the summit of that range, they at last looked across the Paradise\nvalley, and beheld the great peak \"directly in front, filling up the\nwhole view with an indescribable aspect of magnitude {p.121} and\ngrandeur.\" Below them lay \"long green ridges projected from the snow\nbelt, with deep valleys between, each at its upper end forming the bed\nof a glacier.\"\n\n[Illustration: The Mountaineers building trail on the lateral moraine\nof Carbon Glacier. Without such trails, the \"tenderfoot\" would fare\nbadly.]\n\nDescending from the Tatoosh, the explorers camped near a waterfall\nwhich they named Sluiskin Falls, in honor of their guide. Sluiskin now\nendeavored, in a long oration, to dissuade them from their folly.\nAvalanches and winds, he said, would sweep them from the peak, and\neven if they should reach the summit, the awful being dwelling there\nwould surely punish their sacrilege. Finding his oratory vain, he\nchanted a dismal dirge till late in the night, and next morning took\nsolemn leave of them.\n\n[Illustration: The Mountaineers lunching in a crevasse on White\nGlacier, 13,000 feet above the sea, on their ascent in 1909. Even\nLittle Tahoma, on the left, is far below.]\n\nStevens describes their ascent by the now familiar path, over Cowlitz\nCleaver and past Gibraltar. From the top of that \"vast, square rock\nembedded in the side of the Mountain,\" they turned west over the upper\nsnow-fields, and thus first reached the southern peak, which they\nnamed \"Peak Success,\" to commemorate their victory.\n\n     This is a long, exceedingly sharp, narrow ridge, springing out\n     from the main dome for a mile into mid-air. On the right, the\n     snow descended in a steep, unbroken sheet into the tremendous\n     {p.124} basin which lies between the southern and the northern\n     peaks, and which is enclosed by them as by two mighty arms.[6]\n     Sheltered behind a pinnacle of ice, we fastened our flags upon\n     the Alpine staffs, and then, standing erect in the furious blast,\n     waved them in triumph with three cheers.\n\n              [Footnote 6: See illustration, page 14.]\n\n[Illustration {p.122}: Looking southeast from Mt. Rose, above Eunice\nLake, with Mother Mountains on left, and Spray Park in distance on\nright of center. Shows outposts of alpine firs and hemlocks on the\ntimber line.]\n\n[Illustration {p.123}: Looking south from Mt. Rose, across Crater Lake\nto North Mowich Glacier and Mowich Ridge. This was taken from near the\nsame place as the preceding view, and eight miles from the Mountain.\nEagle Cliff, a celebrated view point, is on the right, overlooking\nMowich canyon.]\n\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1909, By Asahel Curtis. Looking up Mowich\nValley. One of the densely wooded regions in the National Park that\nneed trails as a means of protection against fires.]\n\nIt was now five o'clock. They had spent eleven hours in the ascent,\nand knowing it would be impossible to descend before nightfall, they\nsaw nothing to do but burrow in the loose rock and spend the night as\nbest they could. The middle peak, however, was evidently higher, and\nthey determined first to visit it. Climbing the long ridge and over\nthe rim of the crater, they found jets of steam and smoke issuing from\nvents on the north side.\n\n     Never was a discovery more welcome! Hastening forward, we both\n     exclaimed, as we warmed our benumbed extremities over one of\n     Pluto's fires, that here we would pass the night, secure against\n     freezing to death, at least.... A deep cavern extended under the\n     ice. Forty feet within its mouth we built a wall of stones around\n     a jet of steam. Inclosed within this shelter, we ate our lunch\n     and warmed ourselves at our natural register. The heat at the\n     orifice was too great to bear for more than an instant. The steam\n     wet us, the smell of sulphur was nauseating, and the cold was so\n     severe that our clothes froze stiff when turned away from the\n     heated jet. We passed a miserable night, freezing on one side and\n     in a hot steam-sulphur bath on the other.\n\nIn October of the same year, S. F. Emmons and A. D. Wilson, of the\nGeological Survey, reached the snow-line by way of the Cowlitz valley\nand glacier, and ascended the peak over the same route which Stevens\nand Van Trump had discovered and which has since been the popular path\nto Crater Peak. The Kautz route, by the cleaver between Kautz and\nNisqually glaciers, has recently been found {p.125} practicable,\nthough extremely difficult. In 1891 and again the next summer, Mr. Van\nTrump made an ascent along the ridge dividing the Tahoma glaciers. In\n1905, Raglan Glascock and Ernest Dudley, members of the Sierra Club\nparty visiting the Mountain, climbed the Kautz glacier, and finding\ntheir way barred by ice cascades, reached the summit by a thrilling\nrock climb over the cliff above the South Tahoma glacier. This\nprecipice (see p. 37) they found to be a series of rock terraces,\noften testing the strength and nerve of the climbers. In _Sunset\nMagazine_ for November, 1895, Mr. Glascock has told the story of their\nstruggle and reward.\n\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1909, By Asahel Curtis. Spray Falls, a\nsplendid scenic feature of the north side, where it drops more than\nfive hundred feet from the Spray Park table-land into the canyon of\nNorth Mowich Glacier.]\n\n     Here the basalt terminated, and a red porous formation began,\n     which crumbled in the hand. This part of the cliff lay a little\n     out from the perpendicular, and there was apparently no way of\n     surmounting it. I looked at my watch. It was 4:15. In a flash the\n     whole situation came to me. It would be impossible to return and\n     cross the crevasses before dark. We could not stay where we were.\n     Already the icy wind cut to the bone.\n\n     \"We must make it. There is no going back,\" I said to Dudley. I\n     gave him the ice ax, and started to the ascent of the remaining\n     cliff. I climbed six feet, and was helpless. I could not get\n     back, nor go forward. One of my feet swung loose, and I felt my\n     hands slipping. Then I noticed above me, about six or eight\n     inches to my right a sharp, projecting rock. It was here or\n     never. I gave a swing, and letting go my feet entirely, I reached\n     the rock. It held, and I was swinging by my hands over a\n     two-hundred-foot void. I literally glued myself to the face of\n     the rock, searching frantically for knob or crevasse with my\n     feet. By sheer luck, my toe found a small projection, and from\n     here I gradually worked myself up until I came to a broken cleft\n     in the cliff where it was possible to brace myself and lower the\n     rope to Dudley. This last ascent had only been fifteen feet, and,\n     in reality, had taken but three or four minutes, but to me it\n     seemed hours.\n\n     At 7:45, we reached the summit of the south peak. Here we stopped\n     to look down on Camp Sierra. Long shadows spread their mantle\n     across the glaciers, and in the east lay the phantom {p.126}\n     mountain--the shadow of Rainier. A flash of light attracted our\n     attention. We saw that our companions had been watching our\n     progress.\n\n[Illustration: A rescue from a crevasse.]\n\nThe White glacier route on the east side was first used in 1885 by a\nparty from Snohomish. The same glacier was traversed by the\nWillis-Russell party in 1896. The first woman to make the ascent was\nMiss Fay Fuller, of Tacoma, in 1890, over the Gibraltar route.\n\nThe north and northwest sides, as I have said, are as yet unconquered.\nSome members of the Mountaineers have a theory that the summit can be\nreached from Avalanche Camp by climbing along the face of Russell\nPeak, and so around to the upper snowfield of Winthrop glacier. They\nhave seen mountain goats making the trip, and propose to try it\nthemselves. Whether they succeed or not, this trail will never be\npopular, owing to daily landslides in the loose rock of the cliff.\n\n[Illustration: Returning from the summit. The Mountaineers ending a\nmemorable outing in 1909. Winthrop Glacier in foreground, Sluiskin\nMountains in distance.]\n\nIn 1897 and 1905, the Mazama Club of Portland sent parties to the\nMountain, each making the ascent over the Gibraltar route. The Sierra\nClub of California was also represented in the latter year by a\ndelegation of climbers who took the same path to the summit. In 1909,\nthe Mountaineers Club of Seattle spent several weeks on the Mountain,\nentering the National Park by the Carbon trail, camping in Moraine\nPark on the north side, exploring Spray Park and the Carbon glacier,\ncrossing Winthrop glacier to the Wedge, and thence climbing White\nglacier to the summit. Many members of the Appalachian Club and\nAmerican Alpine Clubs and of European organizations of similar purpose\nhave climbed to Crater Peak, either in company with the Western clubs\nnamed, or in smaller parties. Noteworthy accounts of these ascents\nhave been printed in the publications of the several clubs, as well as\nin magazines of wider circulation, and have done much to make the\nMountain known to the public. The principal articles are cited in a\nbibliographical note at the end of this volume.\n\n[Illustration {p.128}: Looking down from Ptarmigan Ridge into the\nCanyon of the North Mowich Glacier and up to the cloud-wreathed Peak.]\n\n{p.129}\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1909, By Asahel Curtis. View looking west\nacross Moraine Park and Carbon Glacier to Mother Mountains.]\n\n\n\n\nV.\n\nTHE FLORA OF THE MOUNTAIN SLOPES.\n\nBy PROF. J. B. FLETT.[7]\n\n              [Footnote 7: Prof. Flett knows the Mountain well. He has\n              spent many summers in its \"parks,\" has climbed to its\n              summit four times, has visited all its glaciers, and has\n              made a remarkable collection of its flowers. In addition\n              to the chapter on the botany of the National Park, this\n              book is indebted to him for several of its most valuable\n              illustrations.]\n\n     Of all the fire-mountains which, like beacons, once blazed along\n     the Pacific Coast, Mount Rainier is the noblest in form. Its\n     massive white dome rises out of its forests, like a world by\n     itself. Above the forests there is a zone of the loveliest\n     flowers, fifty miles in circuit and nearly two miles wide, so\n     closely planted and luxuriant that it seems as if Nature, glad to\n     make an open space between woods so dense and ice so deep, were\n     economizing the precious ground, and trying to see how many of\n     her darlings she can get together in one mountain\n     wreath--daisies, anemones, columbines, erythroniums, larkspurs,\n     etc., among which we wade knee-deep and waist-deep, the bright\n     corollas in myriads touching petal to petal. Altogether this is\n     the richest subalpine garden I ever found, a perfect floral\n     elysium.--_John Muir: \"Our National Parks.\"_\n\n\nNo one can visit the Mountain without being impressed by its wild\nflowers. These are the more noticeable because of their high color--a\ncommon characteristic of flowers in alpine regions. As we visit the\nupland meadows at a season when the spring flowers of the lowlands\nhave gone to seed, we find there another spring season with flowers in\nstill greater number and more varied in color.\n\n[Illustration: Senecio.]\n\nThe base of the Mountain up to an altitude of about 4,000 feet is\ncovered by a somber forest of evergreens composed of the white and\nblack pines; Douglas, Lovely and Noble firs; the white cedar; spruce,\nand hemlock. There are found also several deciduous trees--large-leafed\nmaple, {p.130} white alder, cottonwood, quaking aspen, vine and\nsmooth-leafed maples, and several species of willows. Thus the silva\nof the lower slopes is highly varied. The forest is often interrupted\nby the glacial canyons, and, at intervals, by fire-swept areas.\n\n[Illustration: A 14-foot Fir, near Mineral Lake.]\n\nAmong these foothills and valleys, lies the region of the virgin\nforest. This area is characterized by huge firs and cedars, all tall,\nstraight and graceful, without a limb for 75 to 100 feet. This is\nprobably the most valuable area of timber in the world, and it is one\nof the grandest parts of the Park. A death-like silence generally\npervades this cool, dark region, where few kinds of animal life find a\ncongenial abode. Occasionally the stillness is disturbed by the\nDouglas squirrel, busily gnawing off the fir cones for his winter's\nsupply, or by the gentle flutter of the coy wren, darting to and fro\namong the old, fallen logs. The higher forms of vegetable life are\nalso restricted to a few odd varieties. The most common of these are\nsuch saprophytes as _pterospora andromedea_, _allotropa virgata_, the\nso-called barber's pole, and the Indian pipe. This curious, waxy white\nplant is generally admired by all who see it, but it quickly\ndisappoints those admirers who gather it by turning black.\n\nThe mosses, liverworts, and lichens take possession of the trees and\ncover them with a unique decoration. The licorice fern often gains a\nfoothold on the trees thus decorated, and grows luxuriantly, embedded\nin the deep growth of these plants.\n\nIt is nearly impossible to get through this region without following a\nroad or trail. For the safety of its priceless forest, there are far\ntoo few trails. In case of a forest fire it would be impossible to\nreach some areas in time to combat it with any success. Many beautiful\nregions in the lower parts of the Park are {p.131} wholly\ninaccessible. These should be opened with proper roads and trails, not\nonly for their own safety, but also for the benefit of visitors.\n\n[Illustration: Indian Pipe.]\n\nThe alpine meadows begin to appear at an altitude of about 5,000 feet.\nThe real alpine trees, with their trim, straight trunks and drooping\nbranches, are in strange contrast to their relatives of the lower\naltitude. The principal trees of the meadow area are the alpine fir,\nthe alpine hemlock, and the Alaska cedar. These constitute the greater\npart of the silva of Paradise Valley. There are a few trees of the\nLovely fir in the lower part of the valley, and a few white-barked\npines overlooking the glaciers at timber line.\n\n[Illustration: Floral Carpet in Indian Henry's Park, showing \"Mountain\nHeliotrope,\" more properly Valerian, and other flowers growing near\nthe snow line.]\n\n[Illustration {p.132}: Mosses and Ferns, in the forest reserve, on way\nto Longmire Springs.]\n\n{p.133}\n[Illustration: A bank of White Heather.]\n\nThe trees of the park zone differ greatly on different slopes. On the\nnortheast and east, the white-barked pine and the alpine spruce form\nno small part of the tree groups. The white-barked pine branches out\nlike the scrub oak on the prairie. It is never seen at a low altitude.\nThe alpine spruce bears numerous cones all over the tree, and has\nsharp leaves, though not so sharp as its relative, the tideland\nspruce.\n\n[Illustration: Hellebore (Veratrum Viride).]\n\nNot only is there a difference in the trees on the different slopes of\nthe Mountain, but there is a marked difference in the herbaceous\nplants as well. _Hesperogenia Strictlandi_ is a small, yellow plant of\nthe celery family. This is very abundant, both in Spray Park and also\nin the country east of the Carbon Glacier, but rare on the south side.\n_Gilia Nuttallii_, a large, phlox-like plant, is abundant only in the\nIndian Henry region. Two anemones, one buttercup, three willows and\none senecio seem to be confined to the White River country. The moss\ncampion has been found only on Mowich.\n\nThe most noticeable and abundant flower on all slopes is the avalanche\nlily (_erythronium montanum_). This plant comes up through several\ninches of the old snow crust, and forms beautiful beds of pure white\nflowers, to the exclusion of nearly all other plants. There are often\nfrom seven to nine blossoms on a stem. This has other popular names,\nsuch as deer-tongue and adder-tongue. There is also a yellow species,\ngrowing with the other, but less abundant. It seldom has more than one\n{p.134} or two flowers on a stem. The yellow alpine buttercup\ngenerally grows with the erythroniums. It also tries to rush the\nseason by coming up through the snow. The western anemone is a little\nmore deliberate, but is found quite near the snow. It may be known by\nits lavender, or purple flowers; and later by its large plume-like\nheads, which are no less admired than the flowers themselves.\n\n[Illustration: Alpine Hemlock and Mountain Lilies. In the struggle for\nexistence at the timber line, flowers prosper, but trees fight for\nlife against storm and snow.]\n\nThe plants just mentioned are the harbingers of spring. Following them\nin rapid succession are many plants of various hues. The mountain\ndock, mountain dandelion, and potentilla seldom fail to appear later.\nThe asters, often wrongly called daisies, are represented by several\nspecies, some of which blossom early, and are at their best along with\nthe spring flowers. The great majority of the composite family bloom\nlater, and thus prolong the gorgeous array. The lupines add much to\nthe beauty of this meadow region, both at a low altitude, and also in\nthe region above timber line. Their bright purple flowers, in long\nracemes, with palmate leaves, are very conspicuous on the grassy\nslopes. Between timber line and 8,500 feet, Lyall's lupine grows in\ndense silk mats, with dark purple flowers--the most beautiful plant in\nthat zone.\n\n[Illustration: Mountain Asters.]\n\nFour different kinds of heather are found on the Mountain. The red\nheather is the largest and the most abundant. It grows at a lower\naltitude than the others, and is sometimes, erroneously, called Scotch\nheather. There are two kinds of white heather. One forms a prominent\npart of the {p.135} flora, often growing with the red. The other is\nless conspicuous and grows about timber line. The yellow heather also\ngrows at the same altitude, and is larger and more common than the\nothers. It often forms beautiful areas where other vegetation is rare.\nThe white rhododendron is a beautiful shrub of the lower meadows. Its\ncreamy white blossoms remind one of the cultivated azalea. There are\nseveral huckleberries, some with large bushes growing in the lower\nforest area, others small and adapted to the grassy meadows.\n\n[Illustration: Studying the Phlox.]\n\n[Illustration: Squaw Grass, or Mountain Lily. (Xerophyllum tenax)]\n\nThe figwort family has many and curious representatives. The\nrose-purple monkey-flower is very common and conspicuous in the lower\nmeadows, along the streams. It is nearly always accompanied by the\nyellow fireweed. Higher up, large meadow areas are arrayed in bright\nyellow by the alpine monkey-flower. Above timber line, two\npentstemons, with matted leaves and short stems with brilliant purple\nand red flowers, cover large rocky patches, mixed here and there with\nlavender beds of the alpine phlox; while the amber rays of the golden\naster, scattered through these variegated beds, lend their {p.136}\ncharm to the rocky ridges. The Indian paint-brush, the speedwell, the\nelephant's trunk, and the pigeon bills are all well-known members of\nthe large figwort family which does much to embellish the Mountain\nmeadows. The valerian, often wrongly called \"mountain heliotrope,\" is\nvery common on the grassy slopes. Its odor can often be detected\nbefore it is seen. The rosy spiraea, the mountain ash, and the wild\ncurrant, are three common shrubs in this area. There are also numerous\nsmall herbaceous plants of the saxifrage family, some forming dense\nmats to the exclusion of other plants. The mertensias, polemoniums,\nand shooting stars add much to the purple and blue coloring.\n\n[Illustration: Avalanche Lilies (Erythronium montanum), sometimes\ncalled deer tongues, forcing their way through the lingering snow.]\n\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1909, By Asahel Curtis. Moraine Park,\nSluiskin Mountains and Mystic Lake.]\n\nTwo liliaceous plants of low altitude are always objects of marked\ninterest. The Clintonia, popularly called alpine beauty, begins in the\nforest area, and continues up to the lower meadows. This may be known\nby its pure white blossoms and blue berries. Its leaves are oblong in\ntufts of from two to four. They spring up near the roots. The other is\nxerophyllum, mountain lily, sometimes called squaw grass, because it\nis used by the Indians in basket making. This has tall {p.138} stems\nwith small fragrant flowers and coarse grass-like leaves.\n\n[Illustration {p.137}: Sunrise in Indian Henry's Park, with view of\nthe southwest slope and Peak Success, showing Purple Asters, with\nbunches of Hellebore in center of the flower field.]\n\n[Illustration: Anemone Seed Pods.]\n\nThe orchid family has a few curious saprophytic representatives on the\nlower slopes. Mertin's coral-root is one of the most common. This\ngenerally grows in clusters in the mossy woods, along the trail or\ngovernment road above Longmire Springs. It is very common all around\nthe mountain at an altitude of 3,000 to 4,500 feet. With it, grow two\ntway-blades and the rattlesnake plantain. In bogs, two species of\npiperia, with long spikes of greenish flowers, are abundant. In drier\nsituations, a small form of the ladies' tresses is easily recognized\nby its spiral spike of small white flowers, which are more or less\nfragrant. In some of the swamps at the base of the mountain grows\n_Limnorchis leucostachys_. This is one of our most fragrant flowers,\nas well as one of the most beautiful, with its long spike of pure\nwhite blossoms.\n\nOf the ferns, the common brake is sometimes seen on the slopes near\nthe terminal moraines of the glaciers. On the old moraines and cliffs\nis found the pea fern (_cryptogramma acrostichoides_), so called\nbecause the pinnules of its fruiting fronds resemble those of a pea\npod. This dainty little fern with its two kinds of fronds is always\nadmired by mountain visitors. It is strictly a mountain fern. The deer\nfern also has two kinds of fronds, but this grows all the way from sea\nlevel to the glaciers, being at its best in the dense forest area. The\ndelicate oak fern grows in great abundance from Eatonville to the\ntimber line, and probably does more to beautify the woods than any\nother fern. The sword fern grows in dense, radiate clusters, all\nthrough the mossy woods. The fronds are often five or six feet in\nlength. The maidenhair fern is found along streams, waterfalls and\nmoist cliffs, reaching its highest development in the deep canyons cut\nthrough the dense forest.\n\nOn the very top of Pinnacle Peak and similar elevations, grows the\nbeautiful mountain lace fern (_cheilanthes gracillima._) Nearly every\ntourist presses a souvenir of it in his notebook. _Phegopteris\nalpesteris_ is abundant along the glacial valleys, where the tall\ngrasses and the beautiful array of alpine plants delight the eye.\nThese ferns and grasses give a rich green color to the varigated\nslopes where nature blends so many harmonious colors in matchless\ngrandeur in this great fairyland of flowers.\n\n{p.139}\n[Illustration: Wind Swept Trees on North Side, the last below the Snow\nline.]\n\nThe writer has a list of about three hundred and sixty species from\nthe Mountain. It includes only flowering plants and ferns. There are\nmore than twenty type species named from the Mountain, not a few of\nwhich are found nowhere else. Its geographical position makes it the\nboundary between the arctic plants from the North and the plants of\nOregon and California from the South. Its great altitude has a\nwonderful effect on plant life. This is seen in the trees at timber\nline, where snow rests upon them for months. Their prostrate trunks\nand gnarled branches give ample testimony to their extreme struggle\nfor existence. Where the ordinary plants cease to exist the snowy\nprotococcus holds undisputed sway on the extensive snow fields. This\nis a small one-celled microscopic plant having a blood red color in\none stage of its existence. Even in the crater, on the warm rocks of\nthe rim, will be found three or four mosses--I have noted one there\nwhich is not found anywhere else--several lichens, and at least one\nliverwort.\n\n[Illustration: Lupines.]\n\n{p.140}\n[Illustration: Copyright, 1910, by E. F. Cutter. The Mountain, as seen\nfrom a high ridge in the Cascades near Green River Hot Springs,\nshowing the north and east faces of the Peak, and Little Tahoma on the\nleft.]\n\n\n\n\nNOTES.\n\n\nRates, Trains, Hotel Accommodations.--The round-trip fare from Tacoma\nvia the Tacoma Eastern is $6.00. This includes railway transportation\nto Ashford and automobile-stage ride from Ashford to Longmire Springs\nand return. Tickets are good for the season. To parties of ten or more\ntraveling together a single ticket is issued at $5.00 per capita. A\nweek-end ticket, Saturday to Monday, is sold at $5.00. The rates from\nSeattle to the Springs are $1.50 more, in each case, than the Tacoma\nrates. The train schedule for 1911 follows:\n\n  SOUTHBOUND\n  Leave Seattle      7.45 A.M. and 12.30 P.M.\n  Arrive Tacoma      8.55 A.M. and  1.40 P.M.\n  Leave Tacoma       9.05 A.M. and  1.50 P.M.\n  Arrive Ashford    11.20 A.M. and  4.05 P.M.\n  Leave Ashford     11.30 A.M. and  4.15 P.M.\n  Arrive at Inn     12.45 P.M. and  5.30 P.M.\n\n  NORTHBOUND\n  Leave Inn          7.15 A.M. and  1.30 P.M.\n  Arrive Ashford     8.30 A.M. and  2.45 P.M.\n  Leave Ashford      8.40 A.M. and  2.55 P.M.\n  Arrive Tacoma     10.55 A.M. and  5.10 P.M.\n  Leave Tacoma      11.05 A.M. and  5.15 P.M.\n  Arrive Seattle    12.15 P.M. and  6.30 P.M.\n\nThe National Park Inn, Longmire Springs, provides excellent rooms in\nthe Inn, with a large number of well-furnished and comfortable tents\nnear by. The rates range from $2.50 to $3.75 a day, including meals.\nThe dining-room is under the Chicago, Milwaukee & Puget Sound\ndining-car management, which insures a satisfactory table.\n\nAt the older Longmire Hotel, the rate is $2.50 a day for room and\nboard. This hotel is open all the year, and in winter is much\nfrequented by persons seeking Winter sports, or making use of the\nmineral springs.\n\nThe springs are of great variety, and are highly recommended for their\nmedicinal virtues. Within an area of several acres, there are a score\nof these springs, varying from the normal temperature of a mountain\nstream almost to blood heat. Well-appointed bathhouses are maintained.\nFee, including attendance, $1.00.\n\nAt Reese's Camp, in Paradise Park, and at Mrs. Hall's similar tent\nhotel in Indian Henry's Park, the charge for meals, with a tent for\nsleeping, is $2.50 per day.\n\n\nStages, Horses, Guides.--The cost of getting from Longmire Springs to\nParadise or Indian Henry's is moderate. Many prefer to make the trips\non foot over the mountain trails. Parties are made up several times a\nday, under experienced guides, for each of these great \"parks,\" and\nsure-footed horses are provided for those who wish to ride, at $1.50\nfor the round trip. Guides and horses for the new trail to Eagle Peak\nare at the same rate. Guides may be had at the {p.141} National Park\nInn or at either of the \"camps\" for many interesting trips over the\nmountain trails. Horses also are furnished. The charge varies with the\nnumber in a party.\n\nStages carry passengers from the Inn over the government road to\nNisqually glacier, Narada Falls and Reese's Camp in Paradise Park. The\ncharge for the trip to Narada and return is $2.00; to Paradise and\nreturn, $3.00.\n\nFor those who wish to make the ascent to the summit over the Gibraltar\ntrail, trustworthy guides may be engaged at the Inn or at Reese's.\nArrangements should be made several days in advance. The cost of such\na trip depends upon the number in a party. The guides make a charge of\n$25 for the first member of the party, and $5 each for the others.\nThey furnish alpenstocks, ropes, and calks for the shoes of climbers\nat a reasonable charge. Each person should carry with him a blanket or\nextra coat and a small amount of food, for use in the event of being\non the summit over night. Still heavier clothing will be required if\nthe night is to be spent at Camp Muir. A sleeping-bag, which can be\neasily made, or purchased at any outfitter's, will prove invaluable to\ncampers. Ascents from other points than Reese's are usually made in\nspecial parties. All persons are warned not to attempt an ascent\nunless accompanied by experienced guides. Lives have been lost through\nneglect of this precaution.\n\nFor persons visiting the North Side, the Northern Pacific rate from\nTacoma to Fairfax is $1.25, and from Seattle to Fairfax, with change\nof cars at Puyallup, $1.75. Guides and horses may be engaged at\nFairfax for the Spray Park trail.\n\n\nAutomobiles and Motorcycles.--These vehicles are permitted to use the\ngovernment road, as far as the Nisqually glacier, under the following\nregulations of the Interior Department:\n\nNo automobile or motorcycle will be permitted within the Park unless\nits owner secures a written permit from the Superintendent, Edward S.\nHall, Ashford, Washington, or his representative. Applications must\nshow: Names of owner and driver, number of machine, and inclusive\ndates for which permit is desired, not exceeding one year, and be\naccompanied by a fee of $5 for each automobile and $1 for each\nmotorcycle. All permits will expire on December 31. Permits must be\npresented to the Superintendent or his authorized representatives at\nthe park entrance on the government road.\n\nAutomobiles and motorcycles will be permitted on the government road\nwest of Longmire Springs between the hours of 7 A.M. and 8.30 P.M.,\nbut no automobile or motorcycle shall enter the Park or leave Longmire\nSprings in the direction of the western boundary, later than 8 P.M.,\nthe use of automobiles and motorcycles to be permitted between\nLongmire Springs and Nisqually glacier between the hours of 9 A.M.\nand 9.30 P.M., but no automobile or motorcycle shall leave Longmire\nSprings in the direction of the glacier later than 7 P.M.\n\nWhen teams, saddle horses, or pack trains approach, automobiles and\nmotorcycles shall take position on the outer edge of the roadway,\ntaking care that sufficient room is left on the inside for them to\npass, and remaining at rest until they have passed, or until the\ndrivers are satisfied regarding the safety of their horses. Horses\nhave the right of way, and automobiles and motorcycles will be backed\nor otherwise handled to enable horses to pass with safety.\n\nSpeed shall be limited to 6 miles per hour, except on straight\nstretches where approaching teams, saddle horses, and pack trains will\nbe visible, when, if none are in sight, this speed may be increased to\nthe rate indicated on signboards along the road; in no event, however,\nshall it exceed 15 miles per hour. Signal with horn shall be given at\nor near every bend to announce to approaching drivers the proximity of\na machine.\n\nViolation of any of the foregoing rules, or the general regulations of\nthe Park, will cause the revocation of permit, subject the owner of\nthe automobile or motorcycle to any damages occasioned thereby and to\nejectment from the reservation, and be cause for refusal to issue a\nnew permit without prior sanction in writing from the Secretary of the\nInterior.\n\n\nLiterature of the Mountain.--Vancouver, Winthrop, Kautz, Stevens and\nVan Trump have been noted in the text. Other early accounts of, or\nreferences to, the Mountain may be found in _Wilkes: Narrative U. S.\nexploring expedition_. Phil. 1845, v. 4, 413, 415, 424; _U. S. War\nDep't: Explorations for railroad to Pacific, 1853-4_, v. 1, 192;\n_Gibbs: Journal Am. Geog. Soc._, v. 4, 354-357. {p.142} Gibbs's\nIndian vocabularies, published at different dates, were reprinted four\nyears after his death in _Contributions to Am. Ethnol._, v. 1. Wash.\n1877.\n\nFor Emmons's account of his exploration in 1870, see _Bulletin Am.\nGeog. Soc._ v. 9, 44-61. _Am. Jour. of Science_, v. 101, 157-167, and\n_Nation_ v. 23, 313. Prof. Israel C. Russell's studies of the peak are\nin _U. S. geol. survey, 5th an. rep._ 335-339 and _18th an. rep., part\n2_, 349-415. See also his _Glaciers of N. Am._, Bost. 1901, 62-67, and\n_Volcanoes of N. Am._, Bost. 1895, 241-246. For other accessible\nstudies consult _Wright: Ice age in N. Am. N. Y._ 1889, and _Muir: Our\nnational parks_, Bost. 1901.\n\nThe long controversy over the name of the peak is impartially reviewed\nin _Snowden: History of Washington_. N. Y. 1909, v. 4, 249-254.\nSnowden calls especial attention to an able paper by the late Thaddeus\nHanford of Olympia on the Indian names and recommending the name\nTacoma for the Territory, which was printed in the _Washington\nStandard_ in January, 1866. This article should be reprinted by the\nState Historical Society, as it represents a movement of considerable\nforce at one time against the inept and confusing name adopted for the\nState. The Indian evidence for the native name of the Mountain was\ncollected in _Wickersham: Is it \"Mt. Tacoma\" or \"Mt. Rainier?\"_,\npamphlet, Tacoma, 1893. The argument of an eminent traveler and author\nagainst \"Mt. Rainier\" may be found in _Finck: Pacific coast scenic\ntour_. N. Y. 1891, 209-213, 229-230; also in the same writer's more\nrecent article, _Scribner's Magazine_, v. 47, 234-5. See also _Lyman:\nThe Columbia river_. N. Y. 1909, p. 32, 352-370, and _The Mountains of\nWashington_, in _The Mountaineer_, v. 1, 7-10; and Charles F. Lummis's\neditorial articles in _Out West_, v. 23, 367 and 494. On the other\nhand, Prof. Davidson, in _Sierra Club Bulletin_, v. 6, 87-98, presents\nreasons on which that club accepted \"Mt. Rainier.\"\n\n_Wheeler: Climbing Mt. Rainier_, St. Paul, 1895, and _Plummer:\nIllustrated guide book to Mt. Tacoma_, Tacoma, n. d., are two\npamphlets now out of print.\n\nThe ascents by the Mazama, Sierra and Mountaineers clubs have\nfurnished material for a great variety of articles on the geology,\nbotany and glacier action, as well as many accounts of climbing\nadventures. _Mazama_, v. 2, _Sierra Club Bulletin_, v. 6, and _The\nMountaineer_, v. 1 and 2, are mainly devoted to this peak. For\narticles in periodicals of wider circulation, see _Review of Reviews_,\nv. 9, 163-171 (by Carl Snyder); _Out West_, v. 24, 365-395 (Willoughby\nRodman); _National geog. mag._, v. 20, 530-538 (Milnor Roberts);\n_Scribner's_ v. 22, 169-171 (I. C. Russell); _Outing_, v. 5, 323-332\n(J. R. W. Hitchcock), and v. 38, 386-392 (Ada Woodruff Anderson);\n_Overland_, n. s., v. 2, 300-312 (W. D. Lyman), v. 8, 266-278 (George\nBailey), v. 32, 114-123 (J. P. Montgomery), v. 46, 447-455 (Harry H.\nBrown), v. 55, 552-560 (A. W. McCully), and v. 56, 150-155 (A. W.\nMcCully); _Pacific monthly_, v. 8, 196-202 (John Muir); _The world\ntoday_, v. 9, 1047-53 (Anne Shannon Monroe); _Good words_, v. 42,\n101-114 (Arthur Inkersley); _Appalachia_, v. 7, 185-205 (Ernest C.\nSmith), and v. 11, 114-125 (W. A. Brooks); _Country life in Am._, v.\n14, 170-171 (C. E. Cutter); _The Northwest_, v. 1, 2-10 (Bailey\nWillis); _Outdoor life_, v. 26, 15-24 (Edna Cadwallader). Special\nstudies of the rocks of the peak may be found in _U. S. geol. sur.,\n12th an. rep. pt. 1_, 612 (J. P. Iddings), and in _Neues Jahrbuch_, v.\n1, 222-226, Stuttgart, 1885 (K. Oebeke).\n\n[Illustration: Glacial debris on lower part of Winthrop Glacier, with\nSluiskin Mountains beyond.]\n\n\n\n\n{p.143} INDEX.\n\n\nFigures in light face type refer to the text, those in the heavier\ntype to illustrations.\n\n  Adams, Mount, 77, 86, 64, 66.\n  Allen, Prof. O. D., cottage, 49.\n  Alta Vista, 49, 60.\n  American Alpine Club, 126.\n  Anemones, 32;\n    seed pods, 138.\n  Appalachian Club, 126.\n  Ascents, Kautz, 117;\n    Stevens and Van Trump, 120-4;\n    Emmons and Wilson, 124;\n    Glascock and Dudley, 125;\n    the mountain clubs, 126.\n  Automobiles, 57, 70-72, 141, 41, 49, 54.\n  Avalanche on Willis Wall, 119.\n  Avalanche Camp, 103, 104, 105.\n  Avalanche Lilies, 136.\n\n\n  Baker, Mount, 86, 98, 99.\n  Ballinger, Richard, H. 75.\n  Basaltic Columns,--South Mowich, 23;\n    on Cowlitz, 93.\n  Bashford, Herbert,--verse, 17.\n  Bee Hive, 76, 80.\n  Beljica, view from, 27.\n  Brooks, Francis,--verse, 40.\n\n\n  Cabins needed on the ridges, 116, 144.\n  Camp of the Clouds, 49, 61, 60.\n  Carbon river, 50, 103, 114.\n  Cascade Mountains, 66, 87, 90, 96.\n  Cathedral Rocks, 85, 76, 84, 78.\n  Chittenden, Maj. H. M., urges trail, 69.\n  Columbia's Crest, 86, 88, 52, 78.\n  Commencement Bay, 28.\n  Congress, action affecting the Park, 58, 59, 67, 70.\n  Cowlitz Chimneys, 43, 78, 81.\n  Cowlitz Cleaver, 85, 76, 78, 81.\n  Cowlitz Park, 64, 93.\n  Crater, 50, 88, 89.\n  Crater Lake, 117.\n  Crater Peak, 13, 86, 60, 89.\n  Curtis, Camp, on the Wedge, 97.\n  Cushman, Francis W., 59, 108.\n\n\n  Dudley, Ernest, 125.\n\n\n  Eagle Cliff, 51.\n  Eagle Peak (Simlayshe), 30, 31;\n    new trail to, 141.\n  Eagle Rock in winter, 7.\n  East-side route to summit, 117, 126, 100.\n  Edmunds, George F., 96.\n  Electric-power development, 108-112.\n  Electron, The Mountain from, 13, 19;\n    Power plant at, 108, 112.\n  Emmons, S. F., Geologist, 94-97.\n\n\n  Fairfax, trail from, 50.\n  Fair Mountaineer, A, 35.\n  Fairy Falls, 73.\n  Fay Peak, 51, 92.\n  Ferns, 132.\n  Fires, danger of forest, 8, 58, 130.\n  Flett, Prof., J. B., 129, n.\n  Flint, Frank P., U. S. Senator, 75.\n  Flood, Indian legend of the, 39.\n  Fox Island, the Mountain from, 14.\n  Fountain, Paul, quoted, 43.\n  Fuller, Miss Fay, 126, 72.\n\n\n  Gap Point, 61, 54.\n  \"Ghost Trees,\" 50.\n  Gibbs, George, on name \"Mt. Tacoma,\" 104, 107, 142.\n  Gibraltar Rock, 82, 85, 116, 121, 60, 68, 71, 76, 78, 81, 82, 83,\n    85, 86.\n  Glaciers, their number and work, 79-83;\n    moraines, 83, 68, 77, 79, 96;\n    rate of flow, 83, 72;\n    names, 93-97;\n    rivers, 108;\n    --Carbon, 50, 51, 77, 103, 105, 107, 108, 118, 119, 120, 121, 129;\n    --Cowlitz, 50, 93, 6, 51, 78, 81, 84, 87;\n    --Frying-Pan, 93, 41, 96, 97;\n    --Ingraham, 93, 78;\n    --Interglacier, 93, 98, 99;\n    --Kautz, 93, 27, 30, 37, 60, 68;\n    --North Mowich, 50-52, 96, 13, 123, 124, 128;\n    --South Mowich, 52, 13, 22, 23;\n    --Nisqually, 49, 31, 55, 57, 60, 68, 69, 71, 72, 78, 81;\n    --Paradise, 50, 94, 97, 25, 31, 60, 79;\n    --Puyallup, 52, 13, 27, 33;\n    --Stevens, 50, 97, 61, 64, 79;\n    --North Tahoma, 93, 13, 26, 27, 32, 33, 37;\n    --South Tahoma, 93, 17, 27, 32, 36, 37, 60;\n    --Van Trump, 94, 31, 60;\n    --White, 50, 81, 93, 9, 12, 94, 95, 96, 100, 121;\n    --Winthrop, 50, 51, 93, 94, 8, 17, 130, 103, 104, 107, 113, 126,\n      142.\n  Glascock, Raglan, 125.\n  \"Goat Island,\" moraine, 96.\n  Goat Mountain (Mt. Wow), 28.\n  Goat Peaks, 87, 90, 94.\n  Grand Park, 51, 64, 98, 99.\n  Green River, view of the Mountain from, 140.\n  Guides, 113, 141.\n\n\n  Hanging glaciers, 51, 57.\n  Heather, 133.\n  Hellebore, 133.\n  Hiaqua Hunter, Myth, 32-39.\n  Hood, Mt., 86.\n  Hylebos, P. F. (Rev.), 28, n.\n\n\n  Ice caves, 31, 73.\n  Indian Henry's Hunting Ground, 49, 25, 29, 32, 34, 36, 37, 40, 50,\n    131, 137;\n    --Mrs. Hall's Camp, 141.\n  Indians, nature worship of the Mountain, 25-31, 39;\n    Puget Sound tribes, 25, 26;\n    fear of the snow-peaks, 32, 121.\n  Ingraham, Maj. E. S., 100.\n  Interglaciers, 93.\n  Iron and Copper mountains, 25, 30.\n\n\n  Jones, Wesley L., U. S. Senator, 75.\n  Jordan, David Starr, 67.\n  Judson, Miss Katharine B. 35, 39.\n\n\n  Kautz, Gen., A. V., 117.\n  Kulshan, Indian name for Mt. Baker, 98.\n  Kutz, Maj. C. W., 69.\n\n\n  Liberty Cap (North Peak), 86, 22, 89, 114.\n  Little Tahoma, 82, 85, 9, 31, 60, 78, 79, 94, 121.\n  Longmire, James, trail and road, 59.\n  Longmire Hotel, 141.\n  Longmire Springs, 44, 51, 141, 52.\n  Lost to the World, 69.\n  Lupines, 139.\n\n\n  McClure, Prof. Edgar, death, 115.\n  Marmot, 26.\n  Matthes, Francois E., U. S. geologist, 89, 97.\n  Mazama (mountain goat), 23.\n  Mazama Club, 126, 81, 82.\n  Mazama Ridge, 60.\n  Mineral Lake, 18.\n  Moraine Park, 51, 126, 105, 113, 117, 129, 136.\n  Mosses and ferns, 132.\n  Mother Mountains, 103, 114, 116, 122, 129.\n  Mountaineers, The, 126, 61, 121, 126.\n  Mountain goat, 23.\n  Mountain Lily, 136, 135.\n  Mountain Pine, 28.\n  Muir John, quoted, 77, 113, 129;\n    Portrait, 116.\n  Muir, Camp, 115, 60, 80, 83.\n  Mystic Lake, 113.\n\n\n  Narada Falls, 61, 107, 58.\n  National Park, see Rainier Natl. Park.\n  National Parks, proposed Bureau of, 75.\n  National Park Inn, 44, 50, 52.\n  Nisqually Canyon, 21.\n  Nisqually Glacier (see Glaciers).\n  Nisqually river, 108, 111, 21, 24, 55.\n  North Peak (Liberty Cap), 13, 22, 89.\n\n\n  Ohop Valley, 43.\n\n\n  Pacific Forest Reserve, 59.\n  Paradise River, 59.\n  Paradise Valley, or Park, 30, 49-51, 61, 31, 39, 46, 53, 59, 60, 62.\n  Peak Success (South Peak), 86, 123-125, 13, 24, 25, 27, 33, 37, 60,\n    68, 78.\n  Phlox, 135.\n  Pierce County road, 43, 49.\n  Piles, S. H., U. S. Senator, 70.\n  Pinnacle Peak, 38, 39, 46, 47.\n  Point Defiance Park, 18.\n  Power-plants on the Mountain, 108-112, 111, 112.\n  Proctor, Miss Edna Dean, poem, \"The Mountain Speaks,\" 15.\n  Ptarmigan, 40.\n  Puget Sound 18, 25, 14;\n    named by Vancouver, 98.\n  Puyallup river, 108, 40.\n  Pyramid Peak, 25, 60.\n\n\n  Railways to Puget Sound, 44;\n    to the Mountain, 54, 57;\n    rates and time table, 140.\n  Rainier, Rear-Admiral Peter, 7, 98, 100, 103, n., 101.\n  Reese's Camp, 61, 115, 141, 64.\n  Reflection Lake, 60, 77.\n  Rainier National Park, 54;\n    increasing use of, 56, 57;\n    its creation, 58-9;\n    see also Roads.\n  Ricksecker, Eugene, engineer, 61, 62, 70, 97.\n  Rivers fed by the Mountain, 108.\n  Rocks of the Mountain, 82, 112.\n  Roads and trails, Pierce County's to the Mountain, 44, 56, 42, 43, 44,\n    49;\n    government road in National Park, 57-62, 51, 54, 55, 56;\n    trails 44, 45, 50-2, 55, 56, 121;\n    proposed road around the Mountain, 62-70;\n    need 58, 130.\n  Rough climbing, 39.\n  Russell, Prof. Israel C., 94.\n  Russell Peak, 82, 103, 105.\n\n\n  Saghalie Illahe, Indian land of peace, 30.\n  St. Elmo Pass, 8, 98, 100, 102, 104.\n  St. Helen's, Mt., 77, 86, 29, 36.\n  Seattle, 18, 43, 44, 108.\n  Senecio, 129.\n  Sierra Club, 75, 126, 57, 69.\n  Simlayshe (Eagle Peak), 30.\n  Siwashes, origin of term, 28, n.\n    See also Indians.\n  Sluiskin, guides Stevens and Van Trump, 28, 32, 120-1.\n  Sluiskin Falls, 67.\n  Sluiskin Mountains, 51, 103, 105, 126, 136, 142.\n  Snipe Lake, 98.\n  Snow Lake, 34.\n  Sour-Dough Mountains, 8, 98, 99.\n  Spanaway Lake, 4.\n  South Peak, see Peak Success.\n  Spray Falls, 125.\n  Spray Park, 50, 51, 92, 106, 116, 122.\n  Steamboat Prow, 51, 85, 104.\n  Steam Caves in Crater, 88.\n  Stevens, Gen. Hazard, 28, n., 32, 96, 97, 120-4, 115.\n  Stevens Canyon, 64, 66.\n  Storm King Peak, 18.\n  Summit, On the, 52;\n    South-side route to, 60;\n    East-side route, 100.\n  \"Sunshine\" and \"Storm,\" 70.\n\n\n  \"Tacoma,\" Indian name for the Mountain, 25, 100-7.\n  Tacoma (City) 18, 43, 44, 111.\n  Tatoosh Mountains, 50, 53, 59, 60, 62, 64, 87.\n  Tolmie, Dr. W. F., 117.\n  Trees in the National Park, 129-131, 139, 42, 130, 132.\n  Tyndall, Prof. John, quoted, 77.\n\n\n  Unicorn Peak, 65.\n  United States Geological Survey, 89.\n\n\n  Vancouver, Capt. George, discovers and names the Mountain, 98-101.\n  Van Trump, P. B., 28, n., 32, 120-5, 115.\n\n\n  Washington Lake, the Mountain from, 16.\n  Washington Torrents, 59.\n  Waterfall above Paradise Valley, 63.\n  Wedge, The, 51, 85, 8, 97, 99, 100.\n  White river, 110, 12, 112.\n  Whitney, Mt., 90.\n  Willis, Bailey, geologist, 96, 97.\n  Wilson, A. D., 96, 97.\n  Whulge, see Puget Sound.\n  Winthrop, Theodore, 93;\n    describes the Mountain, 102-4;\n    authority for his use of the Indian name, 104-7.\n  Wind-swept trees, 28, 139.\n  Wow, Mt. (Goat Mountain), 28.\n\n\n  Yellowstone National Park, 57, 67, 72.\n\n\n[Illustration {p.144}: A climbers' cabin on one of the shoulders of Mt.\nBlanc.]\n\n[Illustration: The Lakeside Press Chicago R. R. Donnelley & Sons Co.]\n\n[Illustration {p.145}: Map Of Puget Sound Country And Roads To Mt.\nRainier-tacoma]\n\n[Illustration {p.146}: Map of RAINIER NATIONAL PARK Compiled by EUGENE\nRICKSECKER U. S. Assistant Engineer FROM \"THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS\n'GOD'\"]","title":"The Mountain that was 'God': Being a Little Book About the Great Peak Which the Indians Named 'Tacoma' but Which is Officially Called 'Rainier'","tradition":"myth-cosmogony","translated_text":null,"word_count":28601}