{"collection":"myth-cosmogony","full_text_available":true,"graph_url":"https://unchartedknowledge.5gfusion.net/v2/api/page/gutenberg_41451/graph","html_url":"https://unchartedknowledge.5gfusion.net/v2/page/gutenberg_41451","id":"gutenberg_41451","license":"Public Domain (US)","rights_basis":"gutenberg_metadata_copyright_false","source":"gutenberg","source_url":"https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/41451","summary":null,"tags":["Category: American Literature","Category: History - Modern (1750+)","Category: Mythology, Legends & Folklore","Category: Travel Writing","Hawaii","Philippines"],"text":"THE SPELL OF THE\n HAWAIIAN ISLANDS AND\n THE PHILIPPINES\n\n\n\n\n THE SPELL SERIES\n\n _Each volume with one or more colored plates\n and many illustrations from original drawings\n or special photographs. Octavo, decorative\n cover, gilt top, boxed._\n\n _Per volume, net $2.50; carriage paid $2.70_\n\n\n BY ISABEL ANDERSON\n THE SPELL OF BELGIUM\n THE SPELL OF JAPAN\n THE SPELL OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS AND THE PHILIPPINES\n\n BY CAROLINE ATWATER MASON\n THE SPELL OF ITALY\n THE SPELL OF SOUTHERN SHORES\n THE SPELL OF FRANCE\n\n BY ARCHIE BELL\n THE SPELL OF CHINA\n THE SPELL OF EGYPT\n THE SPELL OF THE HOLY LAND\n\n BY KEITH CLARK\n THE SPELL OF SPAIN\n THE SPELL OF SCOTLAND\n\n BY W. D. MCCRACKAN\n THE SPELL OF TYROL\n THE SPELL OF THE ITALIAN LAKES\n\n BY EDWARD NEVILLE VOSE\n THE SPELL OF FLANDERS\n\n BY BURTON E. STEVENSON\n THE SPELL OF HOLLAND\n\n BY JULIA DE W. ADDISON\n THE SPELL OF ENGLAND\n\n BY NATHAN HASKELL DOLE\n THE SPELL OF SWITZERLAND\n\n\n THE PAGE COMPANY\n 53 Beacon Street\n Boston, Mass.\n\n\n\n\n [Illustration: _Mount Mayon_ (_See page 308_)]\n\n\n\n\n The SPELL of\n THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS\n AND THE PHILIPPINES\n\n _Being an Account of the Historical and Political Conditions\n of Our Pacific Possessions, together with Descriptions of the\n natural Charm and Beauty of the Countries and the strange and\n interesting Customs of their Peoples._\n\n\n _BY_\n _Isabel Anderson_\n\n _Author of \"The Spell of Japan,\" \"The Spell of Belgium,\" etc._\n\n\n ILLUSTRATED\n\n\n BOSTON\n THE PAGE COMPANY\n PUBLISHERS\n\n\n\n\n _Copyright, 1916, by_\n THE PAGE COMPANY\n\n _All rights reserved_\n\n\n Published in November, 1916\n Second Impression, June, 1917\n\n\n THE COLONIAL PRESS\n C. H. SIMONDS CO., BOSTON, U. S. A.\n\n\n\n\n I DEDICATE THIS BOOK WITH LOVE\n TO THE MEMORY OF MY GRANDFATHER\n\n WILLIAM F. WELD\n\n WHOSE SHIPS SAILED UPON THESE\n TROPICAL SEAS\n\n\n\n\nFOREWORD\n\n\nIt is my hope that this book about our islands in the Pacific ocean may\nbe of some interest, if for no other reason than that there is at\npresent so much discussion as to whether or not we should keep the\nPhilippines.\n\nSoon after the close of the Civil War my father, who was a naval\nofficer, was sent on a cruise on the Pacific and stopped for a time both\nat Honolulu and Manila. During this cruise he took part in the\noccupation and survey of Midway Island, as it is now called--_our first\npossession in Pacific waters_. Many years later, when my husband and I\nstarted on our first trip to the East, I asked my father if he would\ngive us letters of introduction to his many friends there. He replied,\n\"It is a long time since I visited the islands in the Pacific; if my\nfriends have forgotten me letters would do no good, and if they remember\nme letters are not necessary.\" Needless to say, they did remember him\nand extended to us the most cordial hospitality.\n\nThe charm of Hawaii will linger forever in our memory--those happy\nflower islands where the air is sweet with perfume and gay with the\nmusical strains of the ukulele. We lived there for a time before the\nIslands were annexed to the United States and, on another visit, we had\nthe privilege of accompanying the Secretary of War, Hon. J. M.\nDickinson, so that we had exceptional opportunities of seeing both\nHawaii and the Philippines, and of making the acquaintance of leaders\namong the Americans and the natives.\n\nWe found the Philippines especially fascinating on account of the great\nvariety they provide. The old world plazas, the flowering Spanish\ncourtyards, and the pretty women in their distinctive costume of pi\u00f1a\nare all enchanting. Nowhere else in the Far East are the\n_mestizos_--those of mixed blood--socially above the natives. The\nFilipinos are unique in that they are the only Asiatics who are\nChristians. Among the hills, near civilization, live the savages who\nindulge in the exciting game of head-hunting. The Moros, the Mohammedans\nof the southern islands, stand quite by themselves. They are very\npicturesque and absolutely unlike their neighbours.\n\nSecretary Dickinson and Governor Forbes we can never thank enough for\nthe thousand and one strange sights we saw, as enchanting as the tales\nwhich Scheherezade told during those far-off Arabian Nights. I only wish\nI could describe them in her delightful style! Of all the spells what is\nmore puissant than the spell of the tropics--the singing of dripping\nwater, the rustle of the palm in the breeze. In this land you forget all\ntrouble and dream of love and happiness, while the Southern Cross gleams\nbrightly in the sky.\n\nThere it is indeed true that\n\n \"The flower of love has leisure for growing,\n Music is heard in the evening breeze,\n The mountain stream laughs loud in its flowing,\n And poesy wakes by the Eastern Seas.\"\n\nI wish especially to say how grateful I am to those who have helped me\nin one way or another, with this book: Admiral George Dewey, General\nThomas Anderson, Major J. R. M. Taylor, Major William Mitchell, Mr.\nWilliam R. Castle, Jr., and Mr. C. P. Hatheway. Mr. R. K. Bonine was\nalso very kind in allowing me to reprint some of his photographs of\nHawaii. My thanks are also due to Miss Helen Kimball, Miss C. Gilman,\nMiss K. Crosby, and my husband, and to all the others who have been so\ngood as to encourage me in writing the \"Spell of the Hawaiian Islands\nand the Philippines.\"\n\n\n\n\nCONTENTS\n\n\n FOREWORD vii\n\n THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS\n\n CHAPTER PAGE\n I THE BRIGHT LAND 3\n II MYTHS AND MELES 29\n III THE FIVE KAMEHAMEHAS 48\n IV SERVANT AND SOIL 81\n V IN AND OUT 103\n\n THE PHILIPPINES\n\n I MANILA AS WE FOUND IT 123\n II THE PHILIPPINES OF THE PAST 148\n III INSURRECTION 180\n IV FOLLOWING THE FLAG 206\n V HEALING A NATION 224\n VI DOG-EATERS AND OTHERS 245\n VII AMONG THE HEAD-HUNTERS 270\n VIII INSPECTING WITH THE SECRETARY OF WAR 296\n IX THE MOROS 325\n X JOURNEY'S END 353\n\n BIBLIOGRAPHY 363\n\n INDEX 365\n\n\n\n\nLIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS\n\n\n PAGE\n MOUNT MAYON (_in full colour_) (_See page 308_) _Frontispiece_\n MAP OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 3\n ROYAL HAWAIIAN HOTEL 6\n HON. SANFORD B. DOLE 9\n SURF-BOATING (_in full colour_) 17\n MAKING POI (_in full colour_) 27\n INTERIOR OF HAWAIIAN GRASS HOUSE 33\n ANCIENT TEMPLE INCLOSURE 37\n A HULA DANCER (_in full colour_) 40\n QUEEN EMMA 65\n KING KALAKAUA AND STAFF 73\n \"THE TINY PLANTATION RAILWAY AMONG THE WAVING GREEN STALKS\" 82\n PINEAPPLE PLANTATION, ISLAND OF OAHU 88\n LEPER COLONY, ISLAND OF MOLOKAI 105\n SILVERSWORD IN BLOOM, IN THE CRATER OF HALEAKALA 108\n FIRE HOLE, KILAUEA 110\n ON THE SHORES OF KAUAI, THE \"GARDEN ISLAND\" 115\n MAP OF THE PHILIPPINES 121\n GOVERNOR GENERAL CAMERON FORBES 125\n THE PASIG RIVER (_in full colour_) 128\n MALACA\u00d1AN PALACE 136\n MRS. ANDERSON IN FILIPINA COSTUME 139\n \"UNDER THE BELLS\" 155\n JOSE RIZAL 170\n FORT SANTIAGO 172\n A GROUP OF FILIPINA LADIES 182\n AGUINALDO'S PALACE AT MALOLOS 191\n SAN JUAN BRIDGE 194\n GENERAL LAWTON 196\n BENGUET ROAD 212\n FIRST PHILIPPINE ASSEMBLY 215\n OSME\u00d1A, THE SPEAKER OF THE FIRST ASSEMBLY 217\n A CARABAO (_in full colour_) 225\n PENAL COLONY ON THE ISLAND OF PALAWAN 239\n THE PARTY AT BAGUIO 246\n IGOROT SCHOOL GIRL WEAVING 251\n IGOROT OUTSIDE HIS HOUSE 253\n ILONGOT IN RAIN-COAT AND HAT OF DEERSKIN 258\n ILONGOTS RETURNING FROM THE CHASE 260\n WOMAN OF THE BATAN ISLANDS WITH GRASS HOOD 264\n CONSTABULARY SOLDIERS 283\n RICE TERRACES 287\n IFUGAO COUPLE 289\n IFUGAO HEAD DANCE 293\n WEAPONS OF THE WILD TRIBES 295\n LANDING AT TOBACO 309\n A MORO _DATO_ AND HIS WIFE, WITH A RETINUE OF ATTENDANTS 325\n A MORO GRAVE 329\n A MORO _DATO'S_ HOUSE 336\n BAGOBO MAN WITH POINTED TEETH 339\n BAGOBOS WITH MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS 345\n BAGOBO WITH NOSE FLUTE 348\n MORO BOATS 350\n ONE DAY'S CATCH OF FISH 356\n VIEW IN ILOILO, ILOILO, SHOWING HIGH SCHOOL GROUNDS 358\n THE OLD AUGUSTINIAN CHURCH, MANILA 361\n\n\n\n\n[Illustration]\n\n\n\n\nTHE SPELL OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS AND THE PHILIPPINES\n\n\n\n\nTHE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER I\n\nTHE BRIGHT LAND\n\n\nOn our first trip to Hawaii we sailed from San Francisco aboard the\n_Gaelic_ with good, jolly Captain Finch. He was a regular old tar, and\nwe liked him. We little thought that in 1914 he would have the\nmisfortune to be in command of the _Arabic_ when it was torpedoed in the\nAtlantic. He showed great gallantry, standing on the bridge and going\ndown with his ship, but I take pleasure in adding that he was saved.\n\nWe had an ideal ocean voyage: calm, blue seas, with a favouring trade\nwind, a glorious moon, and strange sights of huge turtles, tropic birds,\nand lunar rainbows. We had, too, an unusual company on board--Captain\nGridley, of Manila Bay fame, then on his way to take command of the\n_Olympia_; Judge Widemann, a German who had lived for many years in\nHonolulu, and had married a Hawaiian princess; Mr. Irwin, a\ndistinguished American with a Japanese wife--all old friends of my\nfather, who, as a naval officer, made several cruises in the\nPacific--Dr. Furness of Philadelphia, a classmate of my husband's at\nHarvard, who was going out to study the head-hunters of Borneo; and Mr.\nCastle, grandson of one of the early missionaries to Hawaii. He has\nsince written a charming book on the Islands.\n\nAfter six days on the smooth Pacific, we caught sight of Oahu, the fairy\nisland on which Honolulu is situated. Diamond Head stretches far out\ninto the blue, like a huge lizard guarding its treasure--a land of\nfruits and flowers, of sugar-cane and palm. The first view across the\nbay of the town with its wreath of foliage down by the shore, just as\nthe golden sun was setting over the mountain range, was a picture to be\nremembered. And in the distance, above Honolulu, the extinct crater\ncalled Punchbowl could be seen, out of which the gods of old no doubt\ndrank and made merry.\n\nAn ancient Hawaiian myth of the creation tells how Wakea, \"the\nbeginning,\" married Papa, \"the earth,\" and they lived in darkness until\nPapa produced a gourd calabash. Wakea threw its cover into the air, and\nit became heaven. The pulp and seeds formed the sky, the sun, moon and\nstars. The juice was the rain, and out of the bowl the land and sea were\ncreated. This country they lived in and called it Hawaii, \"the Bright\nLand.\" There are many legends told of Papa by the islanders of the\nPacific. She traveled far, and had many husbands and children, among\nwhom were \"the father of winds and storms,\" and \"the father of forests.\"\n\nAs we approached the dock, we forgot to watch the frolicking porpoises\nand the silver flying fish, at sight of the daring natives on their\nboards riding the surf that broke over the coral reef. The only familiar\nface we saw on the wharf as we landed was Mr. George Carter, a friend of\nmy husband's, who has since been Governor of the Islands.\n\nOahu is a beautiful island, and the town of Honolulu at once casts its\nspell upon you, with the luxuriance of its tropical gardens. There is\nthe spreading Poinciana regia, a tree gorgeous with flowers of flame\ncolour, and the \"pride of India,\" with delicate mauve blossoms; there\nare trees with streaming yellow clusters, called \"golden showers,\" and\nsuperb date and cocoanut and royal palms, and various kinds of acacia.\nBougainvilleas, passion-flowers, alamanders and bignonias drape verandas\nand cover walls. There are hedges of hibiscus and night-blooming cereus,\nand masses of flowering shrubs. Everywhere there is perfume, colour and\nprofusion, the greatest wealth of vegetation, all kept in the most\nperfect freshness by constant little passing showers--\"marvelous rain,\nthat powders one without wetting him!\" Honolulu is well named, the word\nmeaning \"abundance of peace,\" for we found the gardens of the town\nfilled with cooing doves. It is said the place was called after a chief\nby that name in the time of Kakuhihewa, the only great king of Oahu who\nis mentioned before Kamehameha I.\n\nAt the time of this visit, in 1897, the total isolation of the Islands\nwas impressive, absolutely cut off, as they were, except for steamers.\nSometimes, moreover, Hawaii was three weeks without an arrival, so that\nthe coming of a steamer was a real event. To cable home, one had to send\nthe message by a ship to Japan and so on around the world.\n\nAfter a night at the old Royal Hawaiian Hotel, big and rambling, in the\ncenter of a pretty garden, we started housekeeping for ourselves in a\nlittle bungalow on the hotel grounds, with a Chinaman for maid of all\nwork. Here we lived as if in a dream, reveling in the beauty of land and\nsea, of trees and flowers, enjoying the hospitality for which the\nIslands are famous, and exploring as far as we could some of the\nenchanting spots of this heaven on earth.\n\n[Illustration: ROYAL HAWAIIAN HOTEL.]\n\nWe were pleased with our little house, with its wide veranda, or\n_lanai_, as it is called there, which we made comfortable and pretty\nwith long wicker chairs and Chinese lanterns. Mangoes falling with a\nthump to the ground outside, and lizards and all sorts of harmless\ncreatures crawling or flying about the house, helped to carry out the\ntropical effect.\n\nIn the four visits that we have made on different occasions we have\nfound the climate perfect; the temperature averages about 73 degrees.\nThe trade winds blowing from the northeast across the Pacific are\nrefreshing as well as the tiny showers, which follow you up and down the\nstreets. There is not a poisonous vine or a snake, or any other creature\nmore harmful than the bee; but I must confess that the first night at\nthe old hotel, the apparently black washstand turned white on my\napproach as the water bugs scuttled away. Nothing really troubled us but\nthe mosquitoes, which, by the way, did not exist there in the early\ndays, so must have been taken in on ships.\n\nThe Islands have been well called \"the Paradise of the Pacific\" and \"the\nplayground of the world.\" The five largest in the group, and the only\nimportant ones, are Hawaii, about the size of Connecticut, Maui, Oahu,\nKauai and Molokai. The small ones are not worth mentioning, as they have\nonly cattle and sheep and a few herdsmen upon them. They are formed of\nlava--the product of numberless volcanic eruptions--and the action of\nthe sea and the rain, combined with the warm climate and the moisture\nbrought by the trade winds, has resulted in the most varied and\nfascinating scenery. Mark Twain, who spent many months there, said of\nthem, \"They are the loveliest group of islands that ever anchored in an\nocean,\" and indeed we were of his opinion.\n\nAt that time the Islands formed an independent republic, under Sanford\nB. Dole as President, the son of Rev. Daniel Dole, one of the early\nmissionaries. He was educated at Punahou, meaning new spring, now called\nOahu College, and at Williams College in the States. He came to Boston\nto study law, and was admitted to the bar. But Hawaii called him, as if\nwith a forecast of the need she would have of his services in later\ndays, and he went back to Oahu, where he took high rank among the\nlawyers in the land of his birth, and became judge of the Supreme Court.\nAfter the direct line of Kamehameha sovereigns became extinct, and the\neasy-going rule of their successors culminated in the high-handed\nattempt of Queen Liliuokalani to restore the ancient rites and also to\nturn the island into a Monte Carlo, Judge Dole was the one man who\nunderstood both parties and had the confidence of both, and he was the\nunanimous choice of the best element of the population for president.\n\n[Illustration: HON. SANFORD B. DOLE.]\n\nOf course we visited the buildings and localities in Honolulu that were\nof interest because of their connection with the existing government or\ntheir history in the past. The Executive Building--the old palace, built\nby King Kalakaua and finished in the finest native woods--and the Court\nHouse, which was the Government Building in the days of the kings; the\nbig Kawaiahao Church, built of coral blocks in 1842, and the Queen's\nHospital, all are in the city, but they have often been described, so I\npass them by with only this mention. The first frame house ever erected\nin the Islands deserves a word, as it was sent out from Boston for the\nmissionaries. It had two stories, and in the early days its tiny rooms\nwere made to shelter four mission families and twenty-two native\nchildren, who were their pupils.\n\nOahu College, too, interested us. It was built on the land given by\nChief Boki to Hiram Bingham, one of the earliest missionaries, who\ndonated it to his coworkers as a site for a school for missionary\nchildren. The buildings stand in a beautiful park of ninety acres, in\nwhich are superb royal palms and the finest algaroba trees in Honolulu.\nLong ago, in the days of the rush for gold to California, boys were sent\nthere for an education from the Pacific Coast.\n\nThe great aquarium at Waikiki, the bathing suburb of Honolulu, I found\nparticularly fascinating. There does not exist in the world an aquarium\nwith fishes more peculiar in form or colouring than those at Waikiki,\nunless the new one in the Philippines now surpasses it. About five\nhundred varieties of fish are to be found in the vicinity of the\nIslands. The fish are of many curious shapes and all the colours of the\nrainbow. Some have long, swordlike noses, and others have fins on their\nbacks that look like feathers. One called the \"bridal veil\" has a lovely\nfilmy appendage trailing through the water. The unusual shapes of the\nbodies, the extraordinary eyes and the fine colouring give many of them\na lively and comical appearance. Even the octopus, the many-armed sea\ncreature, seemed wide awake and gazed at the onlookers through his glass\nwindow.\n\nAn afternoon was spent in the Bishop Museum, which is very fine and well\nequipped, its collection covering all the Pacific islands. I was chiefly\ninterested in the Hawaiian curios,--the finely woven mats of grass work\nand the implements of the old days. Here, too, was the famous royal\ncloak of orange, made of feathers from the _mamo_ bird.[1] It was a work\nof prodigious labour, covering a hundred years. This robe is one of the\nmost gorgeous things I have ever seen and is valued at a million\ndollars. There were others of lemon yellow and of reds, besides the\nplumed insignia of office, called _kahili_, which were carried before\nthe king. Our guide through the museum was the curator, Professor\nBrigham, who had made it the greatest institution of its kind in the\nworld.\n\nThis museum is a memorial, created by her husband, to Bernice Pauahi\nBishop, great-granddaughter of Kamehameha I and the last descendant of\nhis line. Bernice Pauahi was the daughter of the high chief Paki and\nthe high chieftainess Konia. She was born in 1831, and was adopted in\nnative fashion by Kinau, sister of Kamehameha III, who at that time had\nno daughters of her own. Her foster sister, Queen Liliuokalani, said of\nher, \"She was one of the most beautiful girls I ever saw.\"\n\nAt nineteen she married an American, Hon. Charles R. Bishop, who was\ncollector of customs in Honolulu at that time. She led a busy life, and\nused her ability and her wealth to help others. She understood not only\nher own race but also foreigners, and she used her influence in bringing\nabout a good understanding between them.\n\nIn 1883, the year before her death, she bequeathed her fortune to found\nthe Kamehameha School for Hawaiian boys and girls. This school has now a\nfine group of stone buildings not far from Honolulu.\n\nThe Lunalilo Home was founded by the king of that name for aged\nHawaiians. When we visited it, we were particularly interested in one\nold native who was familiar with the use of the old-time musical\ninstruments. This man, named Keanonako, was still alive two years ago.\nHe was taught by his grandfather, who was retained by one of the old\nchiefs. He played on three primitive instruments--a conch shell, a\njew's-harp and a nose flute. The last is made of bamboo, and is open at\none end with three perforations; the thumb of the left hand is placed\nagainst the left nostril, closing it. The flute is held like a clarinet,\nand the fingers are used to operate it. Keanonako played the different\nnotes of the birds of the forest, and really gave us a lovely imitation.\nThe musical instruments in use to-day are the guitar, the mandolin, and\nthe _ukulele_. The native Hawaiians are very musical and sing and play\nwell, but the music is now greatly mixed with American and European\nairs.\n\nIt was always entertaining to drive in the park, where we listened to\nthe band and watched the women on horseback. In those days the native\nwomen rode astride wonderfully well and looked very dignified and\nstately, but one does not see this superb horsemanship and the old\ncostumes any more. They did indeed make a fine appearance, with the\n_paus_, long flowing scarfs of gay colours, which some of them wore\nfloating over their knees and almost reaching the ground, while their\nhorses curvetted and pranced.\n\nOne of the amusements was to go down to the dock to see a steamer off\nand watch the pretty custom of decorating those who went away with\n_leis_--wreaths of flowers--which were placed around the neck till the\ntravelers looked like moving bouquets and the whole ship at last became\na garden. When large steamers sailed the whole town went to the wharf,\nand the famous Royal Hawaiian Band--which Captain Berger, a German, led\nfor forty years--played native airs for an hour before the time of\nsailing. It was an animated and pretty sight at the dock, for the\nnatives are so fond of flowers that they, too, wear leis continually as\nbands around their hats, and they bring and send them as presents and in\ncompliment. Steamers arriving at the port were welcomed in the same\ncharming fashion.\n\nJudge Widemann kindly asked us to dine and view his wonderful hedge of\nnight-blooming cereus. The good old Judge who had married the Princess\nhad three daughters; two of the girls were married to two brothers, who\nwere Americans. All the daughters were attractive, and the youngest, who\nwas the wife of a German, was remarkably pretty. It was strange at first\nto see brown-skinned people in low-necked white satin dinner gowns, and\nto find them so cultured and charming.\n\nWe dined with Mr. and Mrs. Castle, also with old Mrs. Macfarlane at\nWaikiki. We enjoyed our evening there immensely. Sam Parker, \"the prince\nof the natives,\" and Paul Neumann, and Mrs. Wilder, too, all great\ncharacters in those days, were very kind to us. Many of them have passed\naway, but I shall always remember them as we knew them in those happy\nhoneymoon months.\n\nAll the mystic spell of those tropical evenings at Waikiki lives in\nthese lines by Rupert Brooke:\n\n \"Warm perfumes like a breath from vine and tree\n Drift down the darkness. Plangent, hidden from eyes,\n Somewhere an eukaleli thrills and cries\n And stabs with pain the night's brown savagery.\n And dark scents whisper; and dim waves creep to me,\n Gleam like a woman's hair, stretch out, and rise;\n And new stars burn into the ancient skies,\n Over the murmurous soft Hawaiian sea.\"\n\nI took great pleasure in going to Governor Cleghorn's place. He is a\nScotchman who married a sister of the last king, and was at one time\ngovernor of this island. Many years ago, my father brought home a\nphotograph of their beautiful daughter, then a girl of fourteen, who\ndied not long after. Mr. Cleghorn's grounds were superb--old avenues of\npalms and flowering shrubs, and shady walks with Japanese bridges, and\npools of water filled with lilies. A fine view of the valley opened out\nnear the house. There were really two connected houses, which were large\nand built of wood, with verandas. One huge room was filled with\nportraits of the Hawaiian royal family and some prints of Queen Victoria\nand Prince Albert. There were knickknacks everywhere, and teak-wood\ntables and chairs, _poi_ bowls made by hand, and primitive stone tools.\nWe were served with lemonade by two Japanese servants in the pretty\ncostume of their land, while tea was served by a picturesque Chinese\nwoman at a table on the veranda.\n\nBesides these informal entertainments, there were various official\nfunctions. One was a delightful musicale at President Dole's house, in\nthe midst of his lovely tropical garden; also a dinner at the Consul\nGeneral's, besides several parties on the naval vessels at the station.\nCaptain Book gave us a dinner and dance on his ship, the _Marian_. We\nhad breakfast one day on the flagship _Philadelphia_ with Admiral and\nMrs. Beardsley--the Admiral was in command of the station. Captain\nCotton of the _Philadelphia_ also gave us a boating party by moonlight,\nfollowed by a little dance aboard ship.\n\n[Illustration: _Surf-Boating_]\n\nAfter lunching with the American Minister, Mr. Sewall, one day, we sat\non his lanai at Waikiki and watched the surf-boating, which was\nmost exciting, even from a distance, as the canoes came in at racehorse\nspeed on the crest of the breakers. That day L. and I put our bathing\nsuits on, as we did indeed several times, got into an outrigger canoe\nwith two native boys to handle it, and started for the reef. They\nskilfully paddled the boat out between the broken waves, waiting for the\nchance to move on without meeting a foaming crester, and then hurrying\nto catch a smooth place. At last we got out far enough and turned,\nwatching over our shoulders for a big fellow to come rolling in. Then\nthe boys paddled wildly and allowed the crest, as it broke, to catch and\nlift the boat and rush it along on top of the roaring foam, right up to\nthe beach. On one of our trips our oarsmen were a little careless and we\nwere upset. But instead of swimming in shore we swam out to sea and\npushed the boat until we were well beyond the breakers, where we could\nright it again and get in--which, for those not used to it, is not a\nparticularly easy thing to accomplish. The people on the shore became\nfrightened about us and sent out another boat to pick us up, for we were\nquite far out and there were many sharks around.\n\nBy the way, one hears it questioned even to-day whether sharks really\ndo eat men, notwithstanding two men were bitten lately while bathing as\nfar north as on the New Jersey coast. I will simply say I have seen a\nblack diving boy at Aden with only one leg, as the other was bitten off\nby a shark, and have myself even worn black stockings when bathing in\ntropical seas because it is said sharks prefer white legs to black.\n\nAn old friend of mine, an admiral in the navy, tells this extraordinary\nstory--that a sailor was lost overboard from his ship, and that inside a\nshark caught the very same day was found the sailor's head. Here is\nanother story even more remarkable than that, taken from Musick's book\non Hawaii:\n\n\"Why, sharks are the most tractable creatures in the world when you know\nhow to handle them. It takes a great deal of experience and skill to\nhandle a good-sized shark, one of the man-eating species, but the Kanaka\nboys know exactly how to master them. I used to have a fish pond over on\nthe other side of Oahu, and at high tide sometimes as many as half a\ndozen full-grown sharks would come in the pond at a time, and when it\nwas low tide it left them in the pond, which would be so shallow the\nsharks could not turn over. The native boys used to go to that pond,\njump astride the sharks and ride them through the water. It was great\namusement to see them riding races around the pond on the backs of the\nsharks.\n\n\"Now, if you don't believe this story, if you will charter the ship I\nwill take the whole party to the very pond in which the sharks are\nridden for horses. If I can't show you the pond, I will pay the expense\nof the ship.\"\n\nA long drive up into the mountains back of the town one morning, took us\nto Mt. Tantalus, two thousand or more feet high, from which there are\nsplendid views of the plain below and the sea beyond and mountain ranges\non each side. To-day there are many pretty summer villas built on its\nslopes. While we were looking down on the town and harbour far below us,\nwe saw little puffs of white smoke, and long after could just hear the\nbooming of the guns of the warships, American, English, and Japanese,\nsaluting in honour of the President of this little island republic, who\nwas visiting one of the vessels. Then we climbed higher yet, through\nwoods of _koa_ trees, bordered by thickets of the lantana, with its\nmany-coloured flowers, up till we could look down into the dead crater\nof Punchbowl and over Diamond Head, and far off across the sparkling\nocean, while the steeply ravined and ribbed mountains seemed to fall\naway suddenly beneath our feet.\n\nPunchbowl, where in the early days the natives offered human sacrifices,\n\"is for the most part as red as clay, though a tinge of green in its\nrain-moistened chinks suggests those bronzes of uncertain antiquity.\" On\nthis mountain top a myth tells us how a human being was first made--a\nman to rule over this island. The gods molded him from the clay of the\ncrater, and as they were successful and he came to life, they made from\nhis shadow a woman to keep him company. Indeed, many of the natives\nstill believe in gods and fairies, in shark men, owls, and ghosts, and\nthey will tell you stories of the goddess of the crater even to-day.\n\nWhen we last visited this island thirteen years later with our Secretary\nof War, Mr. Dickinson, we saw many changes. We were taken to the\nAlexander Young Hotel in the center of the town, and to the great hotel\nat Waikiki. The old hotel, where we stayed years before, had changed\nhands and was sadly run down. How pretty and green everything was, and\nhow marvelous were the flowers! Many new and rare species had been\nplanted.\n\nThe changes have been gradual, but to-day Honolulu is a modern,\nup-to-date American town, with business blocks of brick. The Makapuu\nPoint Light is one of the largest in the world, and Diamond Head crater\nhas been made into one of the strongest fortifications of modern times.\nGreat men-of-war are to be seen off Honolulu, and Pearl Harbour has been\ndredged. The army quarters on this island are quite fine. There are good\ngolf links, and on the polo field you see excellent players; the field\nis also used for aviation. The finely equipped Children's Hospital, the\nNormal School, and the McKinley High School were interesting\ninstitutions that had sprung up since our first visit.\n\nTo-day, out of a total population in all the Islands of 209,830,\nHonolulu has over 50,000. Many new houses and beautiful gardens are to\nbe seen. The island now has, of course, cable and wireless communication\nwith the mainland, electric cars and lights, telephones, the telegraph\nand numberless motors--in fact, every luxury is to be found. There are a\nnumber of clubs, of which the University is especially popular, and the\nPacific, or British, Club is the oldest. The graduates of women's\ncolleges have formed a club of their own. Schools and charitable\ninstitutions and missionary societies are numerous, and the Y. M. C. A.\nbuilding is very prominent.\n\nThe city now has many churches, which are well attended. The Episcopal\ncathedral, of stone brought from England, is especially fine. The\nCatholic cathedral and convent have long been established. It was a\nCatholic priest who first brought the algaroba tree from Central America\nsixty years ago and planted it in the city of Honolulu. The descendants\nof that one tree have reclaimed great sandy wastes and clothed them with\nfodder for cattle.\n\nOur motor trip to Pearl Harbour took us past Mr. S. M. Damon's charming\nnew place with its delightful Japanese garden. We motored to the Pali, a\nprecipice that drops one thousand feet to the plains which stretch to\nthe sea, where in the old days we had gone so often. Now, a stone tablet\non its summit bears the following inscription:\n\n\"Erected by the Daughters of Hawaii in 1907 to commemorate the battle of\nNuuanu, fought in this valley in 1795, when the invading Kamehameha I\ndrove the forces of Kalanikupule, king of Oahu, to the Pali and hurled\nthem over the precipice, thus establishing the Kamehameha dynasty.\"\n\nIn these days of aeroplanes, I gather this myth of the Bird-man of the\nPali from \"Legends of old Honolulu,\" by Westervelt:\n\nNamaka was a noted man of Kauai, but he left that island to find some\none whom he would like to call his lord. He excelled in spear-throwing,\nboxing, leaping and flying. He went first to Oahu, and in Nuuanu Valley\nhe met Pakuanui, a very skilful boxer, and they prepared for a contest\nat the Pali. Pakuanui could not handle Namaka, who was a \"whirlwind\naround a man,\" so he became angry and planned to kill him. Namaka was as\n\"slimy as a fish.\" \"The hill of the forehead he struck. The hill of the\nnose he caught.\" Like a rainbow bending over the _hau_-trees he was, as\nhe circled around Pakuanui. At a narrow place Pakuanui gave him a kick\nthat knocked him over the precipice, expecting him to be dashed to\npieces. \"But Namaka flew away from the edge.... The people who were\nwatching said, ... He flew off from the Pali like an Io bird, leaping\ninto the air ... spreading out his arms like wings!\"\n\nThis panorama is one of the wonders of the world; land and sea, coral\nreef and mountains, green meadow and shining sand, spread out before\none's eyes at the Pali. As the road makes a sharp turn and begins to\ndescend toward the valley, we encounter the full force of the trade\nwinds, for through this pass a gale is always blowing. To quote from\nCharles W. Stoddard, \"If you open your mouth too wide, you can't shut it\nagain without getting under the lee of something--the wind blows so\nhard.\"\n\nFrom the Pali we went on to Pearl Harbour, where the United States\nGovernment is constructing a great naval station. This harbour, the\nfinest in the Islands, is a deep lagoon, entered from the ocean by a\nnarrow channel three miles in length. At the inner end it expands and\ndivides into two \"lochs,\" which are from thirty to sixty feet deep and\nwith a shore line of some thirty miles. Algaroba forests cover the\nshores, and the fertile countryside, in which are rice, sugar and banana\nplantations, promises abundant supplies for the troops stationed here.\n\nPearl Harbour has really been in our possession ever since the\nReciprocity Treaty with Hawaii was signed in Harrison's\nadministration.[2] As it covers ten square miles, the whole navy of this\ncountry could find anchorage there, and be in perfect safety. Not only\nhas the bar that obstructed the entrance to the channel been removed,\nthe long, narrow channel straightened, and a huge drydock constructed in\nwhich our largest ships of war could be repaired, but barracks, repair\nshops, a power house, hospitals, a powder magazine, and all the other\nbuildings needed to make a complete station have been erected at a cost\nof more than ten millions of dollars. Before the drydock was finished it\nwas partially destroyed by an upheaval. The natives' explanation was\nthat the dock was built over the home of the Shark-god, and that he\nresented this invasion of his domain.\n\nThe island of Oahu will soon be a second Gibraltar, we hope. The channel\nfrom the sea is guarded by Fort Kamehameha. Fort Ruger is at the foot of\nDiamond Head, Fort DeRussy near Waikiki Beach; at Moanalua is Fort\nShafter, and at the entrance of Honolulu Harbour, Fort Armstrong. There\nare more than eleven thousand troops stationed there to-day, consisting\nof field artillery, cavalry, infantry, engineers, signal corps,\ntelephone and telegraph corps, and it is said there will soon be fifteen\nthousand or more.[3]\n\nA Hawaiian feast, such as they had in the old days, was given in honour\nof the Secretary of War, so we were taken to the house of a member of\nthe royal family. I was surprised to see how fine these residences were.\nThis man was only part native, and really one would not have suspected\nfrom his appearance that he had any Hawaiian blood at all. His wife was\na fat native in a _holoku_--a mother hubbard--who directed the feast,\nbut did not receive.\n\nThe bedroom in which we took off our wraps opened out of the big ball\nroom. There was a bright-coloured quilt on the bed, and on the walls\nwere many photographs and cheap prints. Here were also royal feather\nplumes in vases and more polished poi bowls.\n\nThe inclosure where we feasted--or had the _luau_ or \"bake\"--which led\nout of the ball room, was half open with a cover of canvas and banana\nleaves. It contained a long table covered with flowers and fruit, bowls\nand small dishes. There were no forks nor spoons, nor anything but one's\nfingers to eat with. At the end of the meal a wooden dish was passed for\nus to wash our fingers. Some of the dishes contained raw fish with a\nsauce. A cocoanut shell held rock salt, the kind that is given to\ncattle, and a small bowl was filled with a mixture of sweet potato and\ncocoanut. That was the best dish of all. The roasted sweet potato was\ngood, too, and pork, sewed up in _ti_ leaves and roasted with hot\nstones, was another delicacy. The drink was made of fruits and was very\nsweet. And, of course, we had poi.\n\n[Illustration: _Making Poi_]\n\nPoi is described as \"one-finger\" or \"two-finger\" poi--thick or thin.\nNative Hawaiians like it a few days old, when it is sour. Fortunately,\nas this was only one day old, I was able to put one finger-full of the\npasty stuff in my mouth, and, on a dare, I ventured another. Poi is made\nfrom the taro root, which is boiled till soft, then pounded and mixed\nwith water. Why I was not ill after this feast I don't know, as I tried\nmangoes, grapes, watermelon, and pineapple, as well as all the other\nthings. Leis of pink carnations were put about our necks. Hawaiian music\nwith singing went on during the meal, and afterward we danced.\n\nThe company was certainly cosmopolitan. One of the people who interested\nme most was a Hawaiian princess, really very pretty, dressed in the\nheight of fashion. Her father was English. Another interesting person\nwas the daughter of a full-blooded Chinaman, her mother being half\nHawaiian. Her husband was an American. She told me with great pride that\nher boys were both very blond. A wild Texan army man also roused my\ninterest, from the point of view of character study; and I must not\nforget an Englishwoman, who said, on departure, \"Us is going now.\" We\nfound it all very diverting and the people so kind and hospitable that\nwe enjoyed every minute of our stay.\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER II\n\nMYTHS AND MELES\n\n\nNative Hawaiians--big, generous, happy, good-looking folk, athletic and\nfond of music--are in physical characteristics, in temperament, in\nlanguage, traditions and customs, so closely related to the Samoans, the\nMaoris of New Zealand, and the other inhabitants of Polynesia, that it\nis clear they belong to the same race. Although Hawaii is two thousand\nmiles from any other land, the people are so much like the natives of\nthe South Sea Islands that I do not see how the relationship can be\nquestioned. Distance, too, means little, for we hear that only lately a\nJapanese junk was caught in a storm and the mast destroyed, yet it was\nswept along by the Japan current and in an exceedingly short time was\nwashed up on the shore near Vancouver, with most of the sailors still\nalive. The adventurous boatmen who first landed on the island of Hawaii,\nhowever, must not only have crossed two thousand miles of ocean in their\ncanoes but crossed it in the face of opposing trade winds and ocean\ncurrents.\n\nThe Polynesians of those early days, like the ancient Chaldeans, studied\nthe heavenly bodies, and so, on their long voyages, were able to guide\ntheir course by the stars. Their vessels, which were double canoes, like\nthose of the modern Samoans, were from fifty to one hundred feet long\nand carried a large company of people, with provisions, animals, idols,\nand everything that was needed for a long voyage or for colonizing a\nstrange island.\n\nThe legends of that earliest time tell of Hawaii-loa, who sailed from\nthe west to the Islands, which he named for himself. The coming of Wakea\nand Papa also belonged to that period. While they are mentioned as the\ncreators of the earth, they are said in another version of the story to\nhave come from Savaii in Samoa. They brought with them the _tabu_, which\nis common to all Polynesia.\n\nLittle is to be learned, however, of the history of Hawaii from the\nfolklore of Pacific Islanders until about the year 1000 A. D. If we\nmay believe their traditions, this was a time of great restlessness\nthroughout all Polynesia, when Hawaii was again visited and held\ncommunication with other islands, peopled by the same race. It is\ninteresting to remember that this was the century when the Norsemen were\nstriking out across the Atlantic, showing that there were daring\nnavigators on both sides of the globe.\n\nPaao, one of the heroes from Samoa, who settled in Hawaii, became high\npriest. He introduced the worship of new gods and increased the number\nof tabus. The great temple built by him was the first in the shape of a\nquadrangle--previously they had been three-sided. Afterward, he went\nback to Samoa and returned with Pili, whom he made ruler, and from whom\nthe Kamehamehas were descended.\n\nFrom the Hawaiian _meles_, or songs, we may picture their life. The men\nwere skilful fishermen, using hooks of shell, bone, or tortoise shell,\nnets of _olona_-fiber or long spears of hard wood. The bait used in\nshark fishing was human flesh. When it was thrown into the water and the\nshark was attracted to it, the fishermen sprang overboard and fought the\nfish with knives of stone and sharp shark's teeth. No doubt it was an\nextremely exciting sport.\n\nAlong the shores of the Islands are the walls of many fish-ponds, some\nof which, though very old, are still in use and bid fair to last for\ncenturies longer. Usually they were made by building a wall of lava rock\nacross the entrance to a small bay, and the fish were kept in the\ninclosure. The wall was built loosely enough to allow the water to\npercolate through it, and sluice gates were added, which could be opened\nand closed. They were at first owned by kings and chiefs, and were\nprobably built by the forced labour of the people. Tradition has it that\nthe wall of Wekolo Pond at Pearl Harbour was built by natives who formed\na line from shore to mountain and passed lava rock from hand to hand\nuntil it reached the shores over a mile away, without once touching the\nground. Some of the ponds in the interior of the Islands have been\nturned into rice fields and taro patches, especially on Oahu.\n\nThe sports and games of the Hawaiians, of which there were many, were\nnearly all associated with gambling. Indeed, it was the betting that\nfurnished most of the excitement connected with them. At the end of a\nday of games, many of the people would have staked and lost everything\nthey owned in the world.\n\nBoxing, surf-riding and hurling the _ulu_--a circular stone disk, three\nor four inches in diameter--were some of the favourite amusements, as\nwell as tobogganing, which is interesting as a tropical adaptation of\nsomething that we consider a Northern sport. The slide was laid out on a\nsteep hillside, that was made slippery with dry _pili_ grass. The\nsled, of two long, narrow strips of wood joined together by wicker work,\nwas on runners from twelve to fourteen feet long, and was more like our\nsleds than modern toboggans. The native held the sled by the middle with\nboth hands, and ran to get a start. Then, throwing himself face\ndownward, he flew down the hill out upon the plain beyond, sometimes to\na distance of half a mile or more.\n\n[Illustration: INTERIOR OF HAWAIIAN GRASS HOUSE.]\n\nThe old Hawaiians were not bad farmers, indeed, I think we may call them\nvery good farmers, when we consider that they had no metal tools of any\ndescription and most of their agricultural work was done with the _o-o_,\nwhich was only a stick of hard wood, either pointed at one end or shaped\nlike a rude spade. With such primitive implements they terraced their\nfields, irrigated the soil, and raised crops of taro, bananas, yams,\nsweet potatoes, and sugar-cane.\n\nMost of the houses of primitive Hawaiians were small, but the grass\nhouses of the chiefs were sometimes seventy feet long. They were all\nsimply a framework of poles thatched with leaves or the long grass of\nthe Islands. Inside, the few rude belongings--mats, calabashes, gourds,\nand baskets for fish--were all in strange contrast to the modern luxury\nwhich many of their descendants enjoy to-day. The cooking was done\nentirely by the men, in underground ovens. Stones were heated in these;\nthe food, wrapped in ti leaves, was laid on the stones and covered with\na layer of grass and dirt; then water was poured in through a small\nopening to steam the food.\n\nThe mild climate of Hawaii makes very little clothing necessary for\nwarmth, and before the advent of the missionaries the women wore only a\nshort skirt of _tapa_ that reached just below the knees, and the men a\nloin-cloth, the _malo_. Tapa, a sort of papery cloth, is made from the\nbark of the paper mulberry.\n\nHawaiians say that in the earliest days their forefathers had only\ncoverings made of long leaves or braided strips of grass, until two of\nthe great gods, Kane and Kanaloa, took pity upon them and taught them to\nmake _kiheis_, or shoulder capes.\n\nTapa making was an important part of the work of the women. It was\nsometimes brilliantly coloured with vegetable dyes and a pattern put on\nwith a bamboo stamp. Unlike the patterns which our Indians wove into\ntheir baskets and blankets, each one of which had its meaning, these\nfigures on the tapa had no special significance, so far as is known. By\nlapping strips of bark over each other and beating them together, the\ntapa could be made of any desired size or thickness.\n\nIn the old legends, Hina, the mother of the demi-god Maui, figures as\nthe chief tapa maker. The clouds are her tapas in the sky, on which she\nplaces stones to hold them down. When the winds drive the clouds before\nthem, loud peals of thunder are the noise of the rolling stones. When\nHina folds up her clouds the gleams of sunlight upon them are seen by\nmen and called the lightning.\n\nThe sound of the tapa beating was often heard in the Islands. The story\nis told, that the women scattered through the different valleys devised\na code of signals in the strokes and rests of the mallets by which they\nsent all sorts of messages to one another--a sort of primitive\ntelegraphy that must have been a great comfort and amusement to lonely\nwomen.\n\nIn the early days, marriage and family associations fell lightly on\ntheir shoulders, and even to-day they are somewhat lax in their morals.\nThe seamen who visited the Islands after their discovery by Captain Cook\nbrought corruption with them, so that the condition of the natives when\nthe first missionary arrived was indescribable. A great lack of family\naffection perhaps naturally followed from this light esteem of\nmarriage. The adoption and even giving away of children was the\ncommonest thing, even among the high chiefs and kings, and exists more\nor less to-day.\n\nThere were three distinctly marked classes even among the ancient\nHawaiians--chiefs, priests, and common people--proving that social\ndistinctions do not entirely depend upon civilization. The chief was\nbelieved to be descended from the gods and after death was worshiped as\na deity.\n\nThe priestly class also included sorcerers and doctors, all called\n_kahuna_, and were much like the medicine men among the American\nIndians. As with most primitive peoples--for after all, when compared\nthey have very similar tastes and customs--diseases were supposed to be\ncaused by evil spirits, and the kahuna was credited with the power to\nexpel them or even to install them in a human body. The masses had\nimplicit belief in this power, and \"praying to death\" was often heard of\nin the old days.[4]\n\nAncient Hawaiians wrapped their dead in tapa with fragrant herbs, such\nas the flowers of sugar-cane, which had the property of embalming\nthem. They were sometimes buried in their houses or in grottoes dug in\nthe solid rock, but more frequently in natural caves, where the bodies\nwere dried and became like mummies. Sometimes the remains were thrown\ninto the boiling lava of a volcano, as a sacrifice to Pele.\n\n[Illustration: ANCIENT TEMPLE INCLOSURE.]\n\nIt is said no Hawaiians were ever cannibals, but in the early days\nman-eaters from the south visited these Islands and cooked their victims\nin the ovens of the natives. Human bones made into the shape of fish\nhooks were thought to bring luck, especially those of high chiefs, so,\nas only part of Captain Cook's body was found and he was considered a\ngod, perhaps his bones were used in this way.\n\nThe _heiaus_, or temples, developed from Paao's time into stone\nplatforms inclosed by walls of stone. Within this inclosure were sacred\nhouses for the king and the priests, an altar, the oracle, which was a\ntall tower of wicker work, in which the priest stood when giving the\nmessage of his god to the king, and the inner court--the shrine of the\nprincipal idol. One of the most important heiaus, which still exists,\nalthough in ruins, is the temple of Wahaula on the island of Hawaii.\n\nThere was much that was hard and cruel about this religion. The idols\nwere made hideous that they might strike terror to the worshipers. Human\nsacrifices were offered at times to the chief gods. The idols of the\nnatives were much like those of the North American Indians, but the\nKanakas are not like the Indians in character.\n\nThe oppressive tabu was part of the religion, and the penalty for\nbreaking it was death. The word means prohibited, and the system was a\nset of rules, made by the chiefs and high priests, which forbade certain\nthings. For instance, it was tabu for women to eat with men or enter the\nmen's eating house, or to eat pork, turtles, cocoanuts, bananas and some\nkinds of fish. There were many tabu periods when \"no canoe could be\nlaunched, no fire lighted, no tapa beaten or poi pounded, and no sound\ncould be uttered on pain of death, when even the dogs had to be muzzled,\nand the fowls were shut up in calabashes for twenty-four hours at a\ntime.\" Besides the religious tabus there were civil ones, which could be\nimposed at any time at the caprice of king or chiefs, who would often\nforbid the people to have certain things because they wished to keep\nthem for themselves.\n\nOne is apt to think that in those early days the natives of these\nheavenly islands must have been happy and free-living, without laws and\ndoing as they wished, with plenty of fruit and fish to eat; but it was\nnot so at all, for they were obliged to crawl in the dust before their\nking; they were killed if they even crossed his shadow.\n\nAs a pleasant contrast to all these grim features, the Hawaiians, like\nthe ancient Israelites, had cities of refuge, of which there were two on\nthe island of Hawaii. Here the murderer was safe from the avenger, the\ntabu-breaker was secure from the penalty of death, and in time of war,\nold men and women and children could dwell in peace within these walls.\n\nThe curious belief in a second soul, or double, and in ghosts, the\ndoctrines of a future state, and the peculiar funeral rites, all of\nwhich formed part of the native religion, seem strange to many\npresent-day Christian Hawaiians.\n\nIn all Polynesia the four great gods were Kane, \"father of men and\nfounder of the world,\"[5] Kanaloa, his brother, Ku, the cruel one, and\nLono, to whom the New Year games were sacred. These four were also the\nchief deities of Hawaiians.\n\nBesides the great gods there was a host of inferior deities, such as the\ngod of the sea, the god of the fishermen, the shark god, the goddess of\nthe tapa beaters, Laka, the goddess of song and dance, who was very\npopular, and Pele, the goddess of volcanoes. Still lower in the scale\nwere the demi-gods and magicians of marvelous power, like Maui, for whom\nthe island of Maui is said to be named, who pulled New Zealand out of\nthe sea with his magic fish hook and stole the secret of making fire\nfrom the wise mud hens. His greatest achievement was that of lassoing\nthe sun and forcing him to slacken his speed. He was a hero throughout\nPolynesia, and his hook is said to have been still preserved on the\nisland of Tonga in the eighteenth century.\n\nLike most primitive peoples, the Hawaiians danced in order that their\ngods might smile upon them and bring them luck, or to appease the\ndreaded Pele and the other gods of evil. The much-talked of _hula_ began\nin this way as a sacred dance before the altar in a temple inclosure,\nwhile the girls, clad in skirts of grass and wreaths of flowers, chanted\ntheir songs. There was grace in some of the movements, but on the\nwhole the dances are said to have been \"indescribably lascivious.\" After\nthe missionaries arrived, the hula was modified, and to-day it has\nalmost died out.\n\n[Illustration: _A Hula Dancer_\n_With some concession in costume to Western conventions_]\n\nMany of the old chants were addressed to Laka, sometimes called the\n\"goddess of the wildwood growths.\" These meles had neither rime nor\nmeter and were more like chants or recitatives, as the singers used only\ntwo or three deep-throated tones. Curiously enough the verses suggest\nthe modern _vers libre_. The chants include love songs, dirges and name\nsongs--composed at the birth of a child to tell the story of his\nancestors--besides prayers to the gods and historical traditions. As\nsome of these early songs have real vigour and charm, I give a few\nexamples.\n\nThe following is a very old chant of Kane, Creator of the Universe:\n\n \"The rows of stars of Kane,\n The stars in the firmament,\n The stars that have been fastened up,\n Fast, fast, on the surface of the heaven of Kane,\n And the wandering stars,\n The tabued stars of Kane,\n The moving stars of Kane;\n Innumerable are the stars;\n The large stars,\n The little stars,\n The red stars of Kane. O infinite space!\n The great Moon of Kane,\n The great Sun of Kane\n Moving, floating,\n Set moving about in the great space of Kane.\n The Great Earth of Kane,\n The Earth squeezed dry by Kane,\n The Earth that Kane set in motion.\n Moving are the stars, moving is the Moon,\n Moving is the great Earth of Kane.\"[6]\n\nI find the meles to Laka especially pretty, such as these, taken from\nEmerson's \"Unwritten Literature of Hawaii\":\n\n \"O goddess Laka!\n O wildwood bouquet, O Laka!\n O Laka, queen of the voice!\n O Laka, giver of gifts!\n O Laka, giver of bounty!\n O Laka, giver of all things!\"\n\n \"This is my wish, my burning desire,\n That in the season of slumber,\n Thy spirit my soul may inspire,\n Altar dweller,\n Heaven guest,\n Soul awakener,\n Bird from covert calling,\n Where forest champions stand,\n There roamed I too with Laka.\"\n\nThis one from the same collection is interesting in its simplicity and\nstrength:\n\n \"O Pele, god Pele!\n Burst forth now! burst forth!\n Launch a bolt from the sky!\n Let thy lightnings fly!...\n Fires of the goddess burn.\n Now for the dance, the dance,\n Bring out the dance made public;\n Turn about back, turn about face;\n Dance toward the sea, dance toward the land,\n Toward the pit that is Pele,\n Portentous consumer of rocks in Puna!\"\n\nThe Hawaiian myths, I find, are not nearly so original or so full of\ncharm as the Japanese and Chinese stories, and the long names are\ntiresome. They have, moreover, lost their freshness, their individuality\nand their primitive quality in translation and through American\ninfluence. They had been handed down entirely by word of mouth until the\nmissionaries arrived. Many of the myths bear some resemblance to Old\nTestament stories as well as to the traditions told by the head-hunters\nof the Philippines. The legends of the volcano seem more distinctly\nHawaiian.\n\nThere are many legends of Pele as well as chants in her honour, which\ngenerally represent her as wreaking her vengeance on mortals who have\nbeen so unfortunate as to offend her. I quote one that is told to\naccount for the origin of a stream of unusually black lava, which long,\nlong ago flowed down to the coast on Maui:\n\n\"A withered old woman stopped to ask food and hospitality at the house\nof a dweller on this promontory, noted for his penuriousness. His _kalo_\n(taro) patches flourished, cocoanuts and bananas shaded his hut, nature\nwas lavish of her wealth all around him. But the withered hag was sent\naway unfed, and as she turned her back on the man she said, 'I will\nreturn to-morrow.'\n\n\"This was Pele, goddess of the volcano, and she kept her word, and came\nback the next day in earthquakes and thunderings, rent the mountain, and\nblotted out every trace of the man and his dwelling with a flood of\nfire.\"\n\nAnother story goes that in the form of a maiden the goddess appeared to\na young chief at the head of a toboggan slide and asked for a ride on\nhis sled. He refused her, and started down without her. Soon, hearing a\nroar as of thunder and looking back, he saw a lava torrent chasing him\nand bearing on its highest wave the maiden, whom he then knew to be the\ngoddess Pele. Down the hill and across the plain his toboggan shot,\nfollowed by the flaming river of molten rock. The chief, however,\nreached the ocean at last and found safety in the waters.\n\nThis condensed story of the Shark King is also a typical Hawaiian tale:\n\nThe King Shark, while sporting in the water, watched a beautiful maiden\ndiving into a pool, and fell in love with her. As king sharks can\nevidently take whatever form they please, he turned himself into a\nhandsome man and waited for her on the rocks. Here the maiden came one\nday to seek shellfish, which she was fond of eating. While she was\ngathering them a huge wave swept her off her feet, and the handsome\nshark man saved her life. As a matter of course, she straightway fell in\nlove with him. So it happened that one day they were married; but it was\nonly when her child was born that the shark man confided to her who he\nreally was, and that he must now disappear. As he left, he cautioned her\nnever to give their child any meat, or misfortune would follow.\n\nThe child was a fine boy, and was quite like other children except that\nhe bore on his back the mark of the great mouth of the shark. As he grew\nolder he ate with the men instead of the women, as was the custom, and\nhis grandfather, not heeding the warning but wishing to make his\ngrandson strong, so that some day he might become a chief, gave him the\nforbidden meat. When in company, the boy wore a cape to cover the scar\non his back, and he always went swimming alone, but when in the water he\nremembered his father, and it was then that he would turn into a shark\nhimself. The more meat the boy ate the more he wanted, and in time it\nwas noticed that children began to disappear. They would go in bathing\nand never return. The people became suspicious, and one day they tore\nthe boy's mantle off him and saw the shark's mouth upon his back. There\nwas great consternation, and at last he was ordered to be burned alive.\nHe had been bound with ropes and was waiting for the end, but while the\nfire was kindling he called on his father, King Shark, for help, and so\nit was that he was able to burst the ropes and rush into the water,\nwhere he turned into a shark and escaped.\n\nThe mother then confessed that she had married the Shark King. The\nchiefs and the high priests held a council and decided that it would be\nbetter to offer sacrifices to appease him rather than to kill the\nmother. This they did, and for that reason King Shark promised that his\nson should leave the shores of the island of Hawaii forever. It was\ntrue, he did leave this island, but he visited other islands and\ncontinued his bad habits, until one day he was really caught just as he\nwas turning from a man into a shark on the beach in shallow water. He\nwas bound and hauled up a canyon, where they built a fire from the\nbamboo of the sacred grove. But the shark was so large that they had to\nchop down one tree after another for his funeral pyre, until the sacred\ngrove had almost disappeared. This so angered the god of the forest that\nhe changed the variety of bamboo in this region; it is no longer\nsharp-edged like other bamboo on the Islands.\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER III\n\nTHE FIVE KAMEHAMEHAS\n\n\nHawaiian myths and traditions are confused and unreliable, and we know\nlittle real history of the \"Bright Land,\" the \"Land of Rainbows,\" before\nthe coming of Captain Cook, in 1778. We do know, however, that, in those\nearly days, the different tribes continually carried on a savage warfare\namong themselves. Not until the latter part of the eighteenth century\ndid there arise a native chieftain powerful enough to subdue all the\nislands under his sway and bring peace among the warring tribes. This\nchief was Kamehameha I, or Kamehameha the Great, often called the\nNapoleon of the Pacific. The authentic history of Hawaii really begins\nwith his reign. His portrait in the Executive Building in Honolulu shows\nhim as a stern warrior.\n\nThe Japanese, as well as the Spaniards, had long known of the existence\nof islands in that part of the Pacific Ocean. Tradition tells of some\nshipwrecked Spanish sailors and some Japanese who settled there at a\nvery early date. These Islands were, however, brought to the notice of\nthe civilized world for the first time by Captain Cook.\n\nThe Englishmen were received by the simple natives with awe and wonder,\nCaptain Cook himself was declared by the priests to be an incarnation of\nLono, god of the forest and husband of the goddess Laka, and abundant\nprovisions were brought to the ship as an offering to this deity. Had\nthe natives been even decently treated, there would have been no tragic\nsequel to the story, but Cook's crew were allowed complete and\nunrestrained license on shore. As it was, there was no serious trouble\nduring their first visit, but when they returned in a few months and\nagain exacted contributions the supplies were given grudgingly. The\nEnglish vessel sailed away, but was unfortunately obliged to put back\nfor repairs, and it was then that the fight occurred between the\nforeigners and the natives in which Captain Cook met his death. It was\nthis famous voyager who gave the name of Sandwich Islands to the group,\nin honour of his patron, Lord Sandwich. They were known by that name for\nmany years, but it was never the official designation, and is now seldom\nused.\n\nThe discovery of the Islands by Englishmen and Americans was fraught\nwith evil consequences to the natives, as they brought with them new\ndiseases, and they also introduced intoxicating liquors, and it soon\nbecame the custom for whaling vessels in the Pacific to call there and\nmake them the scene of debauchery and licentiousness. It has been said\nthat at that time sea captains recognized no laws, either of God or man,\nwest of Cape Horn. We must not fail to note, however, that even in those\nearly days there were a few white men who really sought the good of the\nHawaiians.\n\nIsaac Davis and John Young were two of these men. When the crew of an\nAmerican vessel was massacred these two were spared, and they continued\nto live in the Islands until their death. They were a bright contrast to\nmost seamen who visited Hawaii at that period. They accepted the\nresponsibility imposed by their training in civilization, exerting a\ngreat influence for good, and were even advisers and teachers of King\nKamehameha I.\n\nCaptain George Vancouver, who visited the Islands three times in the\nlast decade of the eighteenth century under commission from the British\nGovernment, was another white man whose work there was wholly good. He\nlanded the first sheep and cattle ever seen there, and induced the king\nto proclaim them tabu for ten years so that they might have time to\nincrease, after which women were to be allowed to eat them as well as\nmen. He introduced some valuable plants, such as the grapevine, the\norange and the almond, and brought the people seeds of garden\nvegetables. He refused them firearms. Under his direction the first\nsailing vessel was built there and called the _Britannia_. Vancouver so\nwon over the natives by his kind treatment that the chiefs ceded the\nIslands to Great Britain and raised the British flag in February, 1794.\nHe left them with a promise to come again and bring them teachers of\nChristianity and the industries of civilization. His death, however,\nprevented his return, and Great Britain never took formal possession.\n\nKamehameha I, who, at the time of Cook's arrival, was only a chief on\nthe island of Hawaii, joined in the tribal wars, conquered the other\nchiefs of that island, and became king. While this conquest was in\nprogress, an eruption of Kilauea destroyed a large part of the opposing\narmy and convinced Kamehameha that Pele was on his side.\n\nThe subjugation of Maui and Oahu followed. At the great battle fought in\nthe Nuuanu Valley, the king of Oahu was defeated and driven with his\narmy over the Pali. Kamehameha was twice prevented from invading Kauai,\nbut some years later it was ceded to him by its ruler.\n\nAfter the conquest of Oahu was completed, in 1795, it was Kamehameha's\nwork to build up a strong central government. According to the feudal\nsystem that had existed in the Islands up to that time, all the land was\nconsidered to belong to the king, who divided it among the great chiefs,\nthese in turn apportioning their shares among the lesser chiefs, of whom\nthe people held their small plots of ground. All paid tribute to those\nabove them in rank. Kamehameha I, in order to increase his own power and\ndestroy that of the chiefs, distributed their lands to them in widely\nseparated portions rather than in large, continuous tracts, as had been\nthe custom previously.\n\nKamehameha was elected by the chiefs as king of all the Hawaiian\nIslands, and founded the dynasty called by his name, under which his\npeople had peace for nearly eighty years. He adroitly used the tabu to\nstrengthen his power, and availing himself of the wise advice of the few\nbenevolent foreigners whom he knew, he sought in every way to further\nthe best interests of his people. He has been called \"one of the\nnotable men of the earth.\"\n\nThe bronze statue of Kamehameha I stands in front of the Judiciary\nBuilding in Honolulu. The anniversary of the birthday of the great ruler\noccurs in June, and is celebrated by the natives far and near. His\nstatue is dressed in his royal cape of bird feathers and decorated with\nleis of flowers by the sons and daughters of Hawaii.\n\nThe strength of character of Kamehameha I is shown in many ways, but\nespecially in the stand he took in regard to liquor, which was having a\ndisastrous effect on his people. When he became convinced that alcoholic\ndrinks were injurious, he decided never to taste them again.\n\nBefore the close of his life, he made a noble effort to prevent the use\nof liquor by his people. All the chiefs on the island of Hawaii were\nsummoned to meet in an immense grass house, which he had ordered built\nat Kailua, the ancient capital, solely for this council. When they were\nall assembled the King entered in his magnificent cape of mamo bird\nfeathers, and drawing himself up to his full height, uttered this\ncommand:\n\n\"Return to your homes, and destroy every distillery on the island! Make\nno more intoxicating liquors!\"\n\nAt the death of Kamehameha I, in 1819, his son Liholiho succeeded him as\nKamehameha II. Unfortunately, he did not carry out his father's wishes.\nHe was like his father in nothing but name, being weak and dissipated,\nand easily influenced by the unscrupulous foreigners who surrounded him.\nMany changes took place in his reign, but so strong had the government\nbeen made by his father that it survived them all. Fortunately, too, an\nable woman, one of the wives of the first Kamehameha, was associated\nwith the King as Queen Regent.\n\nBefore the end of the year 1819 the Hawaiians had burned their idols and\nabolished tabu. It was the influence of Europeans that had led to these\nradical changes. Early in the nineteenth century the trade in sandalwood\nsprang up, in return for which many manufactured articles were imported,\nespecially rum, firearms and cheap ornaments. This trade brought\nincreased numbers of foreigners to the Islands, and their sneers\nundermined the faith of the people in their old gods without offering\nthem any other religion as a substitute.\n\nIn this connection, we are told that twice Kamehameha I made an effort\nto learn something about Christianity. When he heard that the people of\nTahiti had embraced the new faith, he inquired of a foreigner about it,\nbut the man could tell him nothing. Again, just before his death, he\nasked an American trader to tell him about the white man's God, but, as\na native afterward reported to the missionaries, \"He no tell him.\" This\ngreatest of the Hawaiians prepared the way, but he himself died without\nhearing of Christ.\n\nThe Hawaiians had now swept their house clean, and they were ready for\nan entirely new set of furnishings. In a land far away beyond the\nPacific these were preparing for them, and the short reign of this\nsecond Kamehameha was made memorable not only by the changes already\nmentioned but also by the coming of the missionaries, in 1820.\n\nObookiah, whose real name was Opukahaia, was a young Hawaiian who\nshipped as seaman on a whaler about 1817, and was taken to New Haven,\nwhere he found people who befriended him and undertook to give him an\neducation. They sent him to the Foreign Mission School which had been\nestablished at Cornwall, Connecticut, for young men from heathen lands.\nAmong his mates were four others from his native islands. It had been\nhis purpose to carry the Christian religion to his home, but he was\ntaken seriously ill at the school and on his death-bed he pleaded with\nhis new friends not to forget his country. His appeal led the first\nmissionaries to embark for those far-away shores. Three young Hawaiians\nfrom the school went with them as assistants.\n\nWhen the Christian teachers arrived, it is said that the captain of the\nship sent an officer ashore with the Hawaiian boys. After awhile they\nreturned, shouting out their wonderful news:\n\n\"Liholiho is king. The tabus are abolished. The idols are burnt. There\nhas been war. Now there is peace.\"\n\nThe missionaries received a cordial welcome from some of the natives of\nhigh station. The former high priest met them with the words,\n\n\"I knew that the wooden images of gods carved by our own hands could not\nsupply our wants, but I worshiped them because it was a custom of our\nfathers.... My thought has always been, there is only one great God,\ndwelling in the heavens.\"\n\nThe chief Kalaimoku, neatly dressed in foreign clothes, boarded the\nship, accompanied by the two queen dowagers, and welcomed each of the\nnewcomers in turn with a warm hand clasp. One of the queens asked the\nAmerican women to make her a white dress while they were sailing along\nthe coast, to wear on meeting the King. When she went ashore in her new\nwhite mother hubbard, a shout greeted her from hundreds of throats!\nBecause the gown was so loose that she could both run and stand in it,\nthe natives called it a holoku, meaning \"run-stand.\" It became the\nnational dress. The queens afterward sent the missionaries sugar-cane,\nbananas, cocoanuts and other foods, as a token of their pleasure.\n\nThe Americans were received kindly by the King after explaining their\nmission and were allowed to remain in the Islands. They had many trials\nand privations, but they were strong in their faith, and within twenty\nyears they had the joy of baptizing thousands of converts.\n\nKamehameha II, fearing the Russians--one trader had actually gone so far\nas to hoist the Russian flag over some forts that he had built--visited\nthe United States with his queen and then went on to England to ask for\nprotection, which was promised them by George IV. They both died there,\nin 1824, and their remains were sent home in a British man-of-war,\ncommanded by Lord Byron, cousin of the poet.\n\nWhen Kamehameha III was made ruler, all the unprincipled white men in\nOahu immediately set to work to lead him into every form of dissipation,\nbut they were not to succeed with him as they had with his predecessor.\nThere were men of ability in that band of missionaries, and they had\ngreat influence with him. These faithful advisers had a large share in\nframing the liberal constitution which he granted.\n\nIt is of special interest to note that, the year before the constitution\nwas adopted, a Bill of Rights was promulgated, which set forth the\nfundamental principles of government and is often called the Hawaiian\nMagna Charta. An eminent writer has given us the provisions of this\ndocument.\n\nIt asserts the right of every man to \"life, limb, liberty, freedom from\noppression, the earnings of his hand, and the productions of his mind,\nnot however, to those who act in violation of the laws. It gave natives\nfor the first time the right to hold land in fee simple; before that the\nKing had owned all the land, and no one could buy it. In this document\nit is also declared that 'protection is hereby secured to the persons of\nall the people, together with their lands, their building lots and all\ntheir property while they conform to the laws of the kingdom,' and that\nlaws must be enacted for the protection of subjects as well as rulers.\"\n\nA commission was also formed to determine the ownership of the land. By\nthis commission one-third of all the land was confirmed to the King,\none-third to the chiefs, and one-third to the common people. As far as\npossible the people's share was so divided that each person received the\npiece of ground that he was living on. The King and many of the chiefs\nturned over one-half of their share to the Government, which soon held\nnearly one-third of all the landed property in the kingdom.\n\nThe first constitution was framed in 1840. About ten years later an\nimproved one was adopted. The legislature was to meet in two houses. The\nnobles were to be chosen by the King for life, and were not to be more\nthan thirty in number. There were to be not less than twenty-four\nrepresentatives, who were to be elected by the people. The Supreme Court\nwas to be composed of three members--a chief justice and two associate\njustices. Four circuit courts were to be established, and besides the\njudges for these, each district was to have a judge who should settle\npetty cases.\n\nIt was in 1825, early in the reign of Kamehameha III, that Kapiolani,\ndaughter of the high chief Keawe-mauhili, of Hilo, defied the power of\nPele. Having become a Christian, she determined to give her people an\nobject lesson on the powerlessness of their gods. With a retinue of\neighty persons she journeyed, most of the way on foot, one hundred miles\nto the crater of Kilauea. When near the crater, she was met by the\npriestess of Pele, who threatened her with death if she broke the tabus.\nBut Kapiolani ate the sacred _ohelo_ berries without first offering some\nto the goddess, and undaunted, made her way with her followers down five\nhundred feet to the \"Black Ledge.\" There, on the very margin of the\nfiery lake of Halemaumau, she addressed her followers in these ringing\nwords:\n\n\"Jehovah is my God. He kindled these fires.... I fear not Pele. If I\nperish by the anger of Pele, then you may fear the power of Pele; but if\nI trust in Jehovah, and he should save me from the wrath of Pele, then\nyou must fear and serve the Lord Jehovah. All the gods of Hawaii are\nvain!\" Then they sang a hymn of praise to Jehovah, and wended their way\nback to the crater's rim in safety.\n\nIt was during the reign of Kamehameha III that the United States, France\nand Great Britain recognized the independence of the Hawaiian Islands.\nBefore this news reached the Pacific, however, Lord George Paulet, a\nBritish naval officer, took possession and hoisted the British flag,\nbecause the King refused to yield to his demands. Five months later,\nAdmiral Thomas, in command of Great Britain's fleet in the East,\nappeared at Honolulu and restored the country to the natives. In\nrecognition, an attractive public park was named for him. At the\nthanksgiving service held on that day, the King uttered the words which\nwere afterward adopted as the motto of the nation, the translation of\nwhich is: \"In righteousness is the life of the land.\"\n\nThe independence of Hawaii was only once again threatened by a foreign\npower, when a French admiral took possession of the fort and the\ngovernment buildings at Honolulu for a few days. Indeed, that\nindependence was not only recognized but guaranteed by France, England\nand the United States.\n\nMany of the missionaries settled in Hawaii, and their descendants have\nbecome rich and prominent citizens. Hawaii owes much to them. So far as\nlay in their power, they taught the people trades and introduced New\nEngland ideals of government and education. Two years after they arrived\na spelling book was printed, and a few years later the printing office\nsent out a newspaper in the native language. The first boarding school\nfor boys was started by Lorrin Andrews in 1831, on Maui, and it was not\nlong after that one was established for girls. The Hilo boarding school,\nwhich came later, was the one that General Armstrong took many\nsuggestions from for his work for the coloured people, at Hampton\nInstitute in Virginia. Indeed, so eager were the Hawaiians to learn of\ntheir new teachers that whole villages came to the mission stations,\ngray-haired men and women becoming pupils, and the chiefs leading the\nway.\n\nAs early as 1835, Hoapili, governor of Maui, made the rule that all\nchildren over four years of age should attend school, and no man or\nwoman who was unable to read and write should hold office or receive a\nlicense to marry. Soon after that laws were passed making attendance at\nschool compulsory. Any man who had a child under eight years of age, and\ndid not send him to school, was to suffer various penalties, among them\nto forfeit the right to cut the kinds of timber that the king set apart\nfor the use of the people. To make this provision emphatic, the\nfollowing sentence was added: \"All those kinds of timber are tabu to\nthose parents who send not their children to school.\" An anecdote of\nthis transition period is found in a book written by one who styled\nhimself simply _Haole_ (a foreigner). In the valley of Halawa, on the\nisland of Molokai, he was entertained at the house of the district\njudge, a full-blooded Hawaiian. Among the furnishings of the house were\na table, a bedstead, some chairs, even a rocking chair. He gives an\namusing description of his evening meal in this house.\n\n\"First of all, the table was covered with a sheet just taken off the\nbed. The table service consisted of a knife, fork and spoon, procured\nfrom the foot of a long woolen stocking, a single plate, a tumbler, and\na calabash of pure water from a neighbouring spring. The eatables were\ncomposed of fresh fish, baked in wrappers of the ti leaf, a couple of\nboiled fowls, a huge dish of sweet potatoes, and another of boiled tara\n(taro?).... The last thing served upon the table was something which the\nfamily had learned to designate by the name of 'tea' in English. This\nwas emptied into large bowls, and was intended for the family group,\nmyself included....\n\n\"The cook was a strapping Kanaka, rather more than six feet in height,\nand would have weighed nearly three hundred pounds. While I was the only\noccupant of the table, the family had formed a circle on their mats,\nwhere they were discussing their supper with the utmost eagerness. _He_\ndevoted his entire attention to me. He was a good specimen of a well\npoi-fed native. I could see his frame to advantage, for his sole dress\nconsisted of a short woolen shirt and the malo; and his head of hair\nresembled that of the pictured Medusa. When I first sat down to the\ntable, he took up my plate, and with a mouthful of breath, which was\nreally a small breeze, he blew the dust from it.\n\n\"This act occasioned me no small merriment. But when, in supplying me\nwith 'tea,' he took up a bowl and wiped it out with the corner of his\nflannel shirt, I could refrain no longer. I laughed until my sides\nfairly ached and the tears streamed down my face.... For a moment the\nfamily were taken by surprise, and so was this presiding deity of\nculinary operations. But on a second outburst from myself, they felt\nreassured, and joined with me in my laughter. The cook, however, seemed\nto feel that I had laughed at some one of his blunders; so he dipped the\nbowl in a calabash of water, washed it out with his greasy fingers, and\nagain wiped it out with that same shirt lap. This was done three times,\nin answer to the laughter it was impossible for me to restrain. And\nwhen he had filled the bowl with tea, and saw that it remained untasted,\nhe put a large quantity of sugar into the huge tea-kettle, shook it up,\nplaced it at my right elbow, and told me to drink _that_!\n\n\"The evening was closed with solemn devotions. The best bed in the house\nwas placed at my disposal; and upon it was replaced the sheet on which I\nhad just before supped, and on which I slept during that night. The bed\nwas carefully stuffed with a soft downy substance, resembling raw silk,\nbut called by the natives _pulu_, and culled from the tree-fern. The\npillows were stuffed with the same material.\"\n\n[Illustration: QUEEN EMMA.]\n\n\nKamehameha III was succeeded by his nephew and adopted son Kamehameha\nIV. Although he had a violent temper, he had many good qualities. His\nwife was Queen Emma, granddaughter of John Young, who was very English\nin her tastes. It was in her honour that the King founded the Queen's\nHospital, and it was probably due to her influence that he started the\nAnglican mission and made an excellent translation of the English prayer\nbook into the Hawaiian language. The harbour of Honolulu was enlarged by\nhim and other improvements were made, and the cultivation of rice was\nintroduced. After his death, which occurred in San Francisco, Queen Emma\nmade an attempt to obtain the crown, but was unsuccessful.\n\nIt was about this time, thirty years before my first visit to Hawaii,\nthat my father, Lieutenant Perkins of the U. S. S. _Lackawanna_, was\nordered to the Pacific, and for two years was stationed at Honolulu. He\nspent much of his spare time in traveling over the Islands, even to\ntheir remotest corners. He enjoyed visiting the ranches and joining in\nthe exciting though perilous occupation of driving wild cattle down from\nthe mountains, where one's safety depended almost wholly on skilful\nhorsemanship. He ascended to the great crater of Kilauea, went to every\ninteresting locality, studied the natives, attended their feasts and\nlearned their customs. These things were described in his letters, and\nsuch a newspaper bit as the following gives a glimpse of the duties of a\nnaval officer.\n\n\"The whaling bark, _Daniel Wood_, of New Bedford, was wrecked on the\nFrench Frigates Shoal, April 14th. Captain Richard and a portion of the\ncrew arrived at Honolulu after a passage of 450 miles in an open boat.\nThe U. S. S. _Lackawanna_ immediately sailed for the scene of the wreck\nto rescue the remainder of the crew.\"\n\nAnother clipping records this amusing incident: \"The Commander of the\nBritish war vessel _Chanticleer_, at Honolulu, set his band playing\n'Dixie,' alongside the United States steamer _Lackawanna_. The latter\nretorted with 'Wearing of the Green.'\"\n\nWhile the _Lackawanna_ was at Honolulu, an event occurred which was\nreferred to in the discussions of Congress with regard to Hawaiian\nmatters in the session of 1892-1893, as illustrating the policy of our\nGovernment. The official record of the Government affords a very\ncomplete story of how the United States became the possessor of what is\nnow called Midway Island. It was first known as Brooks Island, but was\nrenamed by our navy department, principally on the unofficial suggestion\nof the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, in recognition of its\ngeographical position on the route from Hawaii to Japan.\n\nThe attention of Mr. Welles, then Secretary of the Navy, was called to\nthis island as possibly destined to prove of early importance as a\ncoaling station for United States vessels cruising in these waters.\nSecretary Welles issued an order to Rear Admiral Thatcher, commanding\nthe _Lackawanna_ or some other suitable vessel to search for the island\nand having found it, to take possession in the name of the United\nStates.\n\nMy father's letters give an account of this trip. August 4th, 1867, he\nwrote:\n\n \"Just now we are sailing along quietly, although we have been\n greatly startled and had a few moments of terrible anxiety. One of\n the men, while furling the top-gallant sail, lost his hold and fell\n overboard. Of course, falling from such a height, we all thought he\n was killed. The life buoys were cut away, and the ship hove to, and\n the boat sent for him, which picked him up and found him but little\n hurt after all. It was such a narrow escape, we were all greatly\n relieved when we got him aboard all right. Except this, we are\n sailing along day after day in perfect monotony, and for two months\n or more we shall not see a strange face or hear a word of news from\n home. But the weather is delightful, and my health is good.\"\n\n\n \"August 24th.\n\n \"Breakers have been reported from the masthead, and I hope it is\n the island we are looking for.\"\n\n\n \"August 27th.\n\n \"Yes, it proved to be the land we were seeking, and now we are\n lying at anchor off Brooks Island, called after the captain who\n discovered it a few years ago; and probably never before or since\n has there been any one there. It is low and sandy, about six miles\n long, and its inhabitants are only sea gulls and other sea birds,\n seals and turtles. Never having seen human beings before, they are\n not in the least afraid of us, and we can catch as many of them as\n we wish. I have been fishing and caught a boatload of fish and\n eleven turtles, each one of the latter weighing two hundred pounds\n and over. We are going to remain here and survey the island, but\n to-day it has come on to rain, and we are all cooped up on board\n the ship.\"\n\n\n \"August 28th.\n\n \"Pleasant weather has come again, and I have been out hunting and\n fishing. Shot seventeen curlew, hauled the seine, caught a boatload\n of fish and three large turtles; hunted for shells, but could not\n find any.\n\n \"We are going to have quite a ceremony and take possession of the\n islands for the United States.\"\n\n\nCaptain William Reynolds, the officer in command of the _Lackawanna_,\nwas very proud of having been concerned in taking possession of the\nfirst island beyond our own shores ever added to the dominion of the\nUnited States. In his report he well describes the somewhat dramatic and\nspectacular performance.\n\n\"I have the honour to report that on Wednesday, the 28th of August,\n1867, in compliance with the orders of the Hon. Secretary of the Navy of\nMay 28th, I took formal possession of Brooks Island and reefs for the\nUnited States. Having previously erected a suitable flagstaff I landed\non that day, accompanied by all the officers who could be spared from\nthe ship, with six boats armed and equipped, and under a salute of\ntwenty-one guns, and with three cheers, hoisted the national ensign, and\ncalled on all hands to witness the act of taking possession in the name\nof the United States.\n\n\"The ceremony of taking possession over, the howitzers and small-arm men\nand marines were exercised at target-firing. Having hauled the seine and\nprocured an abundant supply of fish, the men cooked their dinner on\nshore, and the rest of the day was spent pleasantly, picnic fashion upon\nthe island.... I sincerely hope that this will by no means be the last\nof our insular annexations. I venture to name the only harbour at this\nisland after the present Hon. Secretary of the Navy, and to call its\nroadstead after the present Hon. Secretary of State (Seward).\"\n\n\"In 1869,\" writes C. S. Alden, in his life of Commodore Perkins,\n\"Congress appropriated $50,000 for deepening the entrance of the\nharbour; the work was begun, but the amount proved insufficient for\ncompleting the plan. One hundred miles to the west, Lieutenant-Commander\nSicard, of the U. S. S. _Saginaw_, who had the duties of inspecting and\nassisting in this work, had the misfortune to wreck his ship on a reef.\nThe hazardous voyage of Lieutenant Talbot with three men in a small boat\nsailing over 1500 miles to Kauai, Hawaiian Islands, to gain succour, and\nthe drowning of all but one of the men just as they reached their\ndestination and were pushing through the surf to make a landing, is one\nof the thrilling tales of the sea. Nothing further seems to have been\ndone by our Government until three or four decades later, when it sought\nto insure safety to navigation by establishing there a lighthouse and\nbuoys. After the visits of the _Lackawanna_ and the _Saginaw_, the\nislands were deserted until the Pacific Commercial Cable Company placed\nthere a station in the San Francisco-Manila line, maintaining about\nforty men. This is the intermediate station between Honolulu and\nGuam.\"[7]\n\nKamehameha V was the older brother of the last King, and a man of\nautocratic temper, who promulgated a new constitution that increased the\npowers of the king and decreased those of the people. He was called\nPrince Lot before he came to the throne. During his reign the leper\ncolony on Molokai was started, in an effort to stop the spread of\nleprosy. As every one knows, it was here that Father Damien, the\nCatholic priest, devoted his life to caring for the sufferers and\nfinally succumbed to the disease. The King died in 1872, the last of his\nline. Just before his death, he turned to Mrs. Bishop and asked her to\nbecome queen. She refused, thinking she could serve her people better in\nsome other way, and the King passed away without naming his successor.\n\nIt was suggested that either the sister of Kamehameha V or one of the\nhigh chiefs should be placed on the throne, but Prince Lunalilo, the\nnearest male relative, was elected in 1874 by the people. He was thus\nthe first Hawaiian monarch to be chosen by popular vote. His reign,\nhowever, lasted little more than a year.\n\n[Illustration: KING KALAKAUA AND STAFF.]\n\nDavid Kalakaua, a high chief, was the choice of the people to succeed\nLunalilo. The Reciprocity Treaty with the United States was the great\ncommercial event of this reign. By this sugar and some other products\nwere admitted into America free of duty.\n\nThis last of all the kings sought continually to regain the authority\nlost by the crown when the first constitution was granted, and his\ngovernment kept growing more arbitrary and corrupt. Finally, so much\nfeeling was roused that the foreign element compelled Kalakaua to\nproclaim a new constitution, by which he lost the power he had\npreviously possessed and white men gained more control of the\ngovernment. Two years later, the \"Wilcox rebellion,\" headed by Robert W.\nWilcox, a half-breed, was the unsuccessful attempt of the natives to\nassert themselves against the whites. It was, however, promptly put\ndown.\n\nKalakaua was kind-hearted, popular, and possessed a dignity and ease of\nmanner that made him at home in any society, although he was dissipated\nand corrupt and could be \"hail fellow well met\" with carousers. Captain\nLucien Young says of him in his book, \"Real Hawaii\":\n\n\"Kalakaua was only a high chief, in no way related to the extinct royal\nfamily, and was reputed to be the illegitimate son of a negro cobbler,\nwho had emigrated to the Islands from Boston.\"\n\nOn the other hand, the sister of Kalakaua, Liliuokalani, who followed\nhim, gives the following account of their pedigree:\n\n\"My father's name was Kapaakea; my mother was Keohokalole; the latter\nwas one of the fifteen counselors of the King, Kamehameha III. My\ngreat-grandfather Keawe-a-Heulu, the founder of the dynasty of the\nKamehamehas, and Keona, father of Kamehameha I, were own cousins, and my\ngreat-grandaunt was the celebrated Queen Kapiolani, one of the first\nconverts to Christianity.\"\n\nKing Kalakaua was the author of the Hawaiian national hymn, which was\nset to music by Captain Berger, leader of the Royal Hawaiian Band. It\ncertainly testifies to a firm belief in the \"divine right of kings.\"\n\n \"Hawaii's very own,\n Look to your sovran Lord,\n Your chief that's heaven-born,\n Who is your King;\n\n \"Men of Hawaii's land,\n Look to your native chiefs,\n Your sole, surviving lords,\n The nation's pride.\n\n \"Men of Hawaiian stock,\n My nation ever dear,\n With loins begirt for work,\n Strive with your might.\n\n REFRAIN:\n\n \"Protector, heaven-sent,\n Kamehameha great,\n To vanquish every foe,\n With conquering spear.\"\n\nKalakaua died in San Francisco and his body was taken home in a United\nStates man-of-war. His funeral was one of barbaric splendour with kahili\nbearers, superb feather cloaks, and as was the custom, with bearers who\nhad shaved half their faces and heads.\n\nUnder the kings the Hawaiians had a coat of arms. It had on the first\nand fourth quarters of the shields eight red, white and blue stripes,\nwhich represented the eight inhabited islands. On the yellow background\nof the second and third quarters were the tabu sticks--white balls with\nblack staffs. These were a sign of protection, as well as of tabu. In\nthe center of the shield is a triangular flag, the _puela_, lying\nacross two spears. This also was a sign of tabu and protection. The\nbackground represents a royal mantle. At the sides are the supporters in\nfeather cloaks and helmets, the one on the right carrying a spear, the\none on the left a kahili, or staff used only on state occasions. Above\nthe shield is the crown, ornamented with twelve taro leaves. Below is\nthe national motto.\n\nNotwithstanding she had married an American, John C. Dominis of\nMassachusetts, Liliuokalani was even more determined than her brother\nhad been to restore the ancient privileges of the monarch. She revived\nthe old Hawaiian customs, and decided to proclaim a new constitution\ngiving to herself increased power. The English Minister and his\nfollowers were on the Queen's side, but those who composed the American\nmission element were distinctly the best citizens, and this element\nconquered.\n\nA Citizen's Committee of Safety was formed, then a Provisional\nGovernment was established, and a delegation sent to Washington to\nrequest annexation to the United States. A treaty of annexation was\ndrawn up, but it was not acted upon by the Senate before President\nHarrison's term of office ended and President Cleveland's began. In the\nmeantime, Mr. Stevens, our Minister to Hawaii, had, at the request of\nthe Provisional Government, put the Islands under the protection of the\nGovernment of the United States. Emissaries of the Queen told their\nstory to President Cleveland, who sent a special Commissioner to the\nIslands to report on conditions there. After receiving his report, which\nwas far from impartial, the President sent an urgent request--really a\ndemand--to the Provisional Government to restore the Queen to power. It\nwas impossible for free-born Americans to accede to such a demand, and\nthey replied through Hon. S. B. Dole that the Government \"respectfully\nand unhesitatingly declines to entertain the proposition of the\nPresident of the United States that it should surrender its authority to\nthe ex-Queen.\" Then, in 1894, despairing of immediate annexation, they\nformed a republic with Mr. Dole as president.\n\nIt was proposed by some of the people that Princess Kaiulani, Mr.\nCleghorn's daughter and the Queen's niece, should be proclaimed queen,\nand a Regency with Mr. Dole at its head established until the Princess\ncame of age. But the American element did not feel that an honest\ngovernment would be insured by this means. Kaiulani, who was being\neducated in England, came here and issued an appeal to Americans, but\nwas unable to awaken sympathy. She died soon after.\n\nThe new Republic of Hawaii thus began its history under the leadership\nof the man of whom it is said that he \"throughout his life had been\nidentified with all that was least partizan and most upright in the\nIslands.\" It is interesting to note that a vast amount of political\nwire-pulling was guarded against in the constitution then adopted by the\nprovision that the President at the close of his term of six years\nshould be \"ineligible to re\u00eblection for the next succeeding term.\"\n\nThe last native uprising, said to have been instigated by the ex-Queen,\noccurred in 1895, but was quickly put down. Among the few who lost their\nlives at this time was Charles L. Carter, brother of Governor Carter.\nLiliuokalani was tried for treason, with nearly two hundred of her\nfollowers, but having formally renounced all claim to the Hawaiian\nmonarchy and taken the oath of allegiance to the republic, she was\npardoned. None of the rebels were executed, their sentence being\ncommuted in various ways.\n\nAt this time, trouble arose over the large immigration from Japan; the\nJapanese contract labourers showed a bad spirit; a Japanese man-of-war\nappeared and also a British war vessel; and it was seen that only\nannexation to the United States could prevent the Islands from falling\ninto the hands of some foreign power. They were formally annexed to the\nAmerican republic in 1898. The Territory of Hawaii--this is now the\nofficial title of the Islands--has the same form of government as the\nother territories of the United States.[8]\n\nAs was indeed fitting, the first governor of Hawaii was Hon. S. B. Dole.\nThe governor and the secretary of the territory are appointed by the\nPresident. Of the fifty senators and thirty members of the House of\nRepresentatives about one-half are Hawaiians. There are two official\ndelegates to Washington, one of whom is Prince Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole,\nusually called Prince Cupid.\n\nA series of able men have succeeded Mr. Dole, who in 1903 was appointed\nto another office.[9] Hon. George R. Carter was the next governor until\nhis resignation in 1907. Judge Walter F. Frear held the position from\nthat time until 1913, when Governor Pinkham was appointed, who is still\nat the head of affairs in the territory.\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER IV\n\nSERVANT AND SOIL\n\n\nAs Americans have always been leaders in the Islands, so they were the\nfirst to begin the cultivation of sugar, which is the chief occupation.\nThey commenced by using their own capital, and then gradually interested\ncapitalists from the mainland. The Reciprocity Treaty between the United\nStates and the Islands in 1876 gave a great impetus to the sugar\nindustry. Capital, particularly from this country, was invested in the\nIslands, until at present crops of more than 600,000 tons are shipped\naway in a year.\n\nOne of the largest sugar plantations in the world is that of the\nHawaiian Commercial Sugar Company on the island of Maui. It was Mr.\nClaus Spreckles who bought crown land of the Hawaiian Princess Ruth and\nby his influence with King Kalakaua secured irrigation water for this\ntract at a nominal rental, then formed a stock company to carry on the\nplantation. The yearly product of these miles of cane fields alone is\n60,000 tons.\n\nOn Maui, Kauai and Hawaii skilfully engineered tunnels have brought down\nthe water needed for sugar raising. On Oahu artesian wells have reached\n\"the water of magic power.\"\n\nWe enjoyed an excursion to Judge Widemann's plantation of Waianae on\nOahu. Here we saw a sugar-cane mill and wide meadows and brakes of the\nthick growth, and the whole process of the work--the crushing of the\ncane into molasses, the refining into sugar--and rode on the tiny\nplantation railway among the waving green stalks, while the blue sea\nsparkled on one side, and bare, gaily coloured mountains rose above us\non the other.\n\nSugar raising in Hawaii probably furnishes the most perfect example of\nscientific agriculture to be found under the flag of the United States.\n\"Think of always plowing two feet deep,\" writes a friend, \"and not\nhaving to wait for rain, but telephoning to the engineer to start the\npumps--of knowing at the end of a crop just what elements and the amount\nof each have been taken from the soil--of searching the world for\nparasites to destroy the insect enemies of the cane--of collecting and\nrecording the life history of all the insects found in countries\nbordering the Pacific and all the islands within its borders, so that\nwhen some new pest appears, its origin and characteristics will be\nknown--of sending men out to wherever sugar-cane is grown, in order to\nstudy and record its diseases, and giving the planter coloured\nillustrations of symptoms, so that he may know them in advance of their\narrival and be able to check the pest--of the skilful manipulation of\nthe soil, so that there is a constant increase in the production.\"\n\n[Illustration: \"THE TINY PLANTATION RAILWAY AMONG THE WAVING GREEN\nSTALKS.\"]\n\nIn harvesting the cane a path is first opened through the jungle, then\nthe men, armed with knives like butchers' cleavers, go in among the\ndense growth to cut the stalks. After they have \"stripped\" a field in\nthis way, the cane must be sent to the mill within twenty-four hours, or\nthe juice will ferment.\n\nHere the Japanese women play their part--for, among the Japanese, the\nwomen as well as the men work on the plantations. They gather up the\nstalks, which are not very heavy but are decidedly unwieldy, and if the\nfield is on high land take them to wooden flumes through which water is\nrun from the irrigation ditches. The women toss the great twelve-foot\nstalks into the rapid stream which carries them down to a loading place\nfor cane-cars. Here the flume branches into five \"fingers,\" at the head\nof which stands a man who opens one finger after another, until the\ncars standing under them are filled in turn.\n\nInside the cars are men who stack the cane as it tumbles in, so that\neach car carries a maximum load, laid in good order for the next process\nat the mill. Here, too, is an automatic \"giant-hand\" on an endless belt,\nthe \"fingers\" of which, as it revolves, clutch the stalks of cane like\njackstraws and pass them up to a wide belt that extracts every drop of\njuice so completely that the refuse is fit only for fuel for the\nfurnaces. After the various processes of boiling down, evaporating,\ncrystallizing and drying, the raw sugar is shoveled into gunny-sacks,\nwhich are filled to weigh exactly one hundred pounds each. Again the\nwomen take hold, and sew up the bags. The cost of raising and marketing\nsugar is from forty-five to seventy-five dollars a ton.\n\nJapanese women who work on the sugar plantations may be seen sometimes\nknee-deep in muddy-watery soil near the flumes, or again out in the\ndriest, hottest part of a newly plowed field. They have discarded their\nusual Japanese dress for a mixed costume, consisting of a close-fitting\nwaist of dark, figured, Japanese cotton cr\u00eape, a scant skirt to the\nknee, khaki gaiters, and their own heavy cotton \"bootees.\" To protect\ntheir hair from dust and their necks from the sun, they wear a piece of\nJapanese toweling, which is tied across the back of the head and hangs\ndown on the shoulders. On top of this is perched a cheap American sailor\nhat. The effect is certainly startling. Some take their tiny babies in\nbright-figured swaddling clothes with them, and put up a little shelter\ntent of cloth and sticks, where the youngsters lie and sleep.\n\nMost of the women who do agricultural work are Japanese. A few years\nago, when a ship-load of people came from Madeira, the women told the\nimmigration authorities that they had come to work on the plantations.\nBut, after a very short time, they retired from this sort of labour for\nthe much pleasanter and more remunerative business of making Madeira\nembroidery. Among the Chinese the women rarely go out of their own homes\nto work, although Oriental servants prevail all over these Islands. Some\nof the younger generation of Portuguese girls go out as nursemaids in\nwhite families, but the majority of that race make sewing and\ndressmaking or \"clerking\" their means of support. It is surprising,\nindeed, to see how few of the employees in any store are \"white\";\nbookkeepers, clerks, etc., are usually young part-Hawaiians or\npart-Chinese.\n\nFrom the beginning, when sugar was ready for export, it was rarely\nshipped from the Hawaiian Islands in any but American bottoms. The\nAmerican-Hawaiian Steamship Company--the largest fleet sailing under the\nStars and Stripes and numbering twenty-eight vessels--the Oceanic\nSteamship Company, and the Matson Navigation Company, were all formed\nlargely because of the favourable contracts they were able to make for\ncarrying sugar, and the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, which plied\nbetween California and the Far East, stopped at Honolulu because of the\nprofit to be made by carrying freight from the Islands. American\nshipping on the Pacific, however, has always been at a disadvantage,\nbecause foreign ships can be built more cheaply than ours and are\nusually subsidized.\n\nAs if these drawbacks were not enough, during the present Congress the\nSeaman's Act, somewhat modified now to be sure, has had a disastrous\neffect on American shipping on the Pacific Ocean. The American boats\nused to carry crews of well trained Chinamen. Under this act the\nmajority of the crew must be English-speaking sailors and they cannot be\nprocured in sufficient numbers nor can such boats generally be run with\nsufficient economy to compete with foreign flags. So trans-Pacific trade\nhas been given over almost entirely to the Japanese, who have especially\nfine passenger ships on that route to-day. As, according to our laws,\nthese boats are not permitted to carry passengers or freight between\nAmerican ports, the service between the Islands and the United States\nhas been seriously crippled with consequent increase in rates of\ncarriage. A resident in the Islands writes, \"When the last Pacific Mail\nsteamer sailed from Honolulu Harbour, all flags were at half mast and\nHawaii was in mourning.\"\n\nStill, the planters are cheerful. For 1916, they look forward to an\nestimated production of 603,000 tons and a continuance of the present\nhigh prices, which will enable them not only to pay good dividends but\nalso to install labour-saving machinery and to make other improvements,\nby which they will produce sugar more cheaply when the present era of\nhigh prices is over. The shipments of raw sugar from Hawaii for the year\nending June 30, 1915, sold for more than $51,000,000.\n\nNext in importance to the sugar industry is the production of\npineapples. These are raised only on the higher ground. The land is as\ncarefully prepared as a garden, and the soil thoroughly pulverized. The\nplants are set in furrows, and there are sometimes as many as twelve\nthousand to the acre. They mature their fruit in about two years. When\nthe pineapple ripens, from the lower part of the stump suckers appear,\nwhich bear fruit one year later. These in turn grow suckers that come\ninto bearing the following year. Besides these there are slips, that\nspring from the upper part of the parent plant. New plants are grown not\nonly from suckers and slips, but also from the crowns of the fruit, and\ngrowers consider them all about equally good. The plants almost never\nproduce seeds, and when found, they are used for experimental purposes\nonly.\n\nThere are 24,000 acres of land in the pineapple plantations of the\nIslands, and most of them are on Oahu. There is never any frost, and as\nthere are no serious insect pests which attack the fruit the crop is a\nvery fine one. Nor is irrigation necessary, so that thousands of acres\nunavailable for sugar have brought in millions of dollars to those who\nown or rent these plantations.\n\n[Illustration: PINEAPPLE PLANTATION, ISLAND OF OAHU.]\n\nThe fields are carefully picked over every day or two, and only\nperfectly ripe fruit is gathered. Hawaiian pineapples are rich in sugar\nwhen fully matured, but if picked green, they contain little sugar, and\ngain none after they are taken from the plant. Extensive experiments\nhave shown that the Smooth Cayenne variety is far superior to all\nothers, and it is now the only one grown in the Islands. In no instance\nare the fields more than a few miles from the cannery, and the fruit is\nput in the tins as soon as possible after it is picked. The Hawaiian\ncanneries are equipped with labour-saving machinery. Aside from grading\nthe slices and filling the cans, all the work is done by machines. The\nemployees who handle the fruit wear rubber gloves with gauntlets, and\nthe most modern sanitary methods are observed throughout. Every night\neverything in the factory is washed, steamed and scrubbed as clean as\npossible.\n\nWhen the fruit arrives at the cannery, it passes into a machine which\nfirst cuts off both ends, then takes out the core and removes the rind.\nIt is then conveyed to another, which slices the whole pineapple in one\noperation. From here it passes on a moving belt in front of a line of\nworkers, who select the perfect cylindrical pieces for the first grade.\n\nFrom the packing table the tins go to the syrup machine, where the fruit\nis covered with a syrup made of clear water and granulated sugar, thence\nto the exhaust box and double sealer, where it is heated and the cover\nsealed on the can. Then the can is conveyed to the cooker, where it is\nsubmerged in boiling water from twenty to thirty-five minutes, after\nwhich it is left in the cooling room about twelve hours, and then\nstacked in the warehouse until required for shipment.\n\nThe history of this industry is interesting. Only small amounts were\ncanned previous to the year 1901. There has been a steady increase ever\nsince, with a total output in 1914 of over 2,000,000 cases from nine\ncanneries. Nothing like this rapid increase in production and\ndistribution has ever been known before in the canned-fruit trade.\nCalifornia, as every one knows, is the greatest fruit-producing section\nin the world, and her canned fruits are found in practically every\nmarket, yet her average total pack, of every variety except apples, from\n1901 to 1910, was only about one-third more than the pack of Hawaiian\npineapples alone in 1914. The total value of those shipped to the United\nStates for the year ending June 30, 1915, was nearly $6,000,000.\n\nBesides the other important staples raised by the planters for export,\ncoffee and rice are produced in large quantities--over 3,000,000 pounds\nof each. The coffee grown in the district of Kona is famous. The Chinese\nare especially good at market gardening. The Hawaiians also plant taro\nfor poi, which, although now manufactured by machinery, is still their\nfavourite food, and is also eaten by the whites. Doctors pronounce it\nmost digestible and strengthening. Duke Kahanamoku, a native who has\nalways lived on poi, is the champion swimmer of the world. It is true\nthat not only poi but also the climate is favourable to our race as\nwell, for white boys brought up in Hawaii have proved themselves to be\nstrong, all those who have gone into athletics in American colleges\nhaving made fine records.\n\nIn addition to the products of the large plantations, wool, hides and\nskins from the ranches are exported to a considerable extent. The\nShipman stock ranch, near Hilo, has been carried on for more than forty\nyears. The Parker ranch, however, is the largest, having 18,000 head of\ncattle--Herefords and Holsteins. The long pods of the algaroba tree\nfurnish a large part of the feed for cattle and horses. This is the\ncarob tree of the New Testament, the pods of which were the husks that\nthe Prodigal Son fed to the swine he tended. In the earlier days, guano\nfrom the bird islands was exported, for use as a fertilizer.\n\nWhile plantation life in the Islands may be monotonous for the resident,\nit is full of interest for the tourist who really takes time to see it.\nAn effort is made by the planters to furnish recreation for their\nlabourers. At Waialua on Oahu a large hall has been built, where\nmoving-picture shows are given at intervals, political meetings are\nheld, and there are dances for the white colony. The latter have tennis\ncourts near their homes and hold tournaments, to which they invite\nplayers from other plantations. As work is over at four o'clock--the\nhours being from five to eleven in the morning and two to four in the\nafternoon--the men who work in mill, store or office can play every\nafternoon.\n\nThe Portuguese, Japanese and Hawaiian boys have formed a baseball team,\nwhich represents the plantation in a league of such teams. There are\nmatch games by this league at different places every Sunday. The\nJapanese at Waialua have a theater, the occasional performances at which\nare announced during the day by a man who drives through all parts of\nthe plantation in a hack covered with Japanese signs, beating a drum.\n\nThe native Hawaiians in country districts often present \"tableaux\" for\nthe benefit of their church or some charity fund. A friend of mine told\nme she had once gone to a representation of \"Adam and Eve\" which would\nhave seemed either sacrilegious or ridiculous if done by any but these\ningenuous, grown-up children. The minister of the church played the part\nof Satan, in a bright red union suit with a long tail; a large native,\nin flowing white robes, with a Santa Claus beard and mask, took the part\nof the Deity and banished Adam and Eve, in brown union suits the colour\nof their skin, from the Garden of Eden. Other tableaux gave very vivid\nportrayals of scenes from ancient days of royalty, with its attendant\npomp and ceremony, and old Hawaiian legends. One of these was about\nPaahana, a young Hawaiian girl, who was afraid of the white settlers,\nand ran away to the mountains, building herself a shelter of grass among\nthe bushes. Finally she was discovered by the white missionaries, who\ntried to approach her, but she was wild with fear, and vanished from\nsight into the forest. This story was told in verse, sung to the tune of\n\"Mauna Kea,\" a hula dance.\n\nThese entertainments are never complete without a dance for young and\nold, to music sung and played by a quintette of native boys. Besides the\nukulele and the taro-patch, which is a large ukulele with five strings\ninstead of four, they use the mandolin, violin, guitar and bass-viol.\nThe Hawaiians, being naturally musical, have a keen sense of time and\nrhythm. The Filipinos are also fond of dancing, and in the Libby,\nMcNiel and Libby pineapple cannery, where many of this nationality are\nemployed, dances are held to make them more contented with their\nisolated life.\n\nAmong the plantation labourers there is never the abject poverty that is\nknown in the Far East for, in addition to steady wages, houses, water,\nfuel and doctor's services are all provided for them. Although the\nclimate is semi-tropical sunstroke is unknown. The men who work around\nthe machinery and the boiling sugar wear as few clothes as possible, and\nthe women who sew up the bags of sugar as fast as they are filled, have\nadopted the cool and comfortable but hideous Hawaiian garb of the\nholoku. The heat from the great boilers in the mill is sometimes hard\nfor the white men to bear, but I have never heard of a case of\nheat-prostration. As a large part of the school work must be done on\nthe plantations I insert the following description, given me by one of\nthe teachers of the school at Waialua, Oahu, the largest outside of\nHonolulu.\n\n\"As the pupils are almost entirely foreign, the first grade has three\ndivisions, to accommodate the number who enter it until they are able to\nspeak enough English to be properly graded. Sometimes one finds here\nchildren of twelve to fourteen years who have just come to Hawaii. As a\nrule, they work hard to get out of the 'baby-grade,' and are quickly\npromoted.\n\n\"I was the only white teacher in the school besides the principal. The\nother teachers were Hawaiian, half-white and Chinese Hawaiian girls who\nhad gone through the Honolulu Normal School. They are good teachers,\nkind and patient, and can instruct children in the same slow manner in\nwhich they themselves learn. There was also a young Hawaiian man, a\nNormal graduate, who could help in many extra ways, such as map-drawing,\nchorus-leading, games, etc.\n\n\"Fifteen nationalities were represented in the various grades--Hawaiian,\nChinese, Japanese, Portuguese, Filipino, Spanish, Korean, Porto Rican,\nand a few Scotch, English, Canadians, Germans and Americans, as well as\nRussians and Italians. Besides the pure bloods there were many mixtures,\nsuch as American-Hawaiian, Chinese-Hawaiian, Japanese-Portuguese,\nGerman-Hawaiian, etc.\n\n\"The Japanese and Chinese were the best pupils in every way. The\nHawaiians were tractable, but stupid; Portuguese, smart but mischievous.\nSchool hours were from nine to twelve, and from half past twelve to two.\nMost of the children came from long distances, and after the plantation\nschool was dismissed, the Japanese children went to a Japanese school\nfor two hours.\n\n\"In the first grade, I taught reading, writing and 'rithmetic; also\nnature-study, in simple form, story-work, folk songs and dances. These\nlast helped them a great deal in the new vocabulary, as they loved that\npart of the day's program.\n\n\"It was interesting to note the habits of the different nationalities at\nrecess, especially in regard to their luncheon. The Japanese usually\nwere together out in the yard. They each had their little tin pail with\ntop and bottom section, in which they carried fish and cold rice. I\nnever got a very close look at it, to know how the fish was cooked, but\nI could smell it afar off! They seemed very shy, and would try to hide\ntheir lunch as I walked past. The Chinese were even shyer about their\nlunch, for they never gathered together, as the other nationalities did,\nbut went to some secluded spot and nibbled away at an orange or\nsomething else.\n\n\"The Portuguese usually brought long rolls of bread, which had been cut\nopen and a red jelly-like substance spread all along the inside. They\nalso had fruit, and especially the mango in its season.\n\n\"A little Japanese store nearby kept cakes and pastries, which were very\npopular when the children had money, but the greatest delicacy sold\nthere seemed to be a rubbery substance, which looked like a piece of\nresin, but could be shaved in long strips. They called it dry squid, but\nit did not seem like the dry squid I've tried to masticate at native\nluaus, and I never did find out just what it was.\n\n\"The schools are all supported by the territorial government, which in\nturn receives the plantation taxes, so the plantations themselves do not\ndirectly support the schools, although the children of the labourers\ncomprise nine-tenths of the pupils outside Honolulu.\n\n\"There is compulsory attendance until the age of fourteen, and at\nWaialua a school policeman--a Hawaiian--went all over the plantations\non horseback and found out if any of the children were ill or playing\ntruant.\"\n\nEach nationality is housed more or less by itself in small, one-story\nhouses built in rows, each group called a camp. The white men employed\nas chemists, bookkeepers and clerks in the general store usually live in\na group near the buildings where they are employed. They are German,\nScotch, Norwegian, English and Danish. Few Americans go into this work\nnow, although a number did in years past start out as time-keepers and\nhave become managers. The Kanaka does not make a good manager, but if he\nhas some one to direct him he works well, and he can learn almost any\ntrade; of course he is at his best as a sailor, and he is such a\nwonderful rider that he makes an excellent cowboy.\n\nAt Waialua there is a small hospital where the labourers are treated\nfree, and in at least one of the outlying camps there is a small cottage\nthat is used as a dispensary. The plantation doctor has charge of the\nschool children, vaccinating all that need it at the opening of the\nschool year and watching them for signs of trachoma or leprosy.\n\nSocial work on plantations has not been carried on with a central\norganization as yet, and the welfare of the labourers depends on the\nattitude of the managers, who all belong to the Sugar Planters'\nAssociation. This holds yearly meetings of a week or more in Honolulu,\nwhen managers from all the Islands talk over questions pertaining to\ntheir interests.\n\nThe agricultural situation in the Islands has been carefully studied by\nthe Bureau of Agriculture and Forestry, which reports that there are no\nother crops than sugar and pineapples which can be recommended as a\nreliable industry for the territory. This is true for several important\nreasons.\n\nIn the first place, from an agricultural point of view Hawaii is not a\ntropical country, and the strictly tropical crops do not find optimum\nclimatic conditions. Neither has Hawaii a temperate climate, and the\nstaple products of the temperate zone cannot be relied upon.\n\nThe distance from the mainland markets imposes a serious handicap.\nMoreover, both inter-island and inter-community transportation is\ndifficult and expensive, because Hawaii is a group of comparatively\nsmall, mountainous islands with very few harbours.\n\nIt should be borne in mind, moreover, that the area of cultivated land\nin Hawaii is very small, the amount reclaimable still smaller, while\nthe needs of a growing population must be met. This, of course, means\nintensive cultivation and a high average rate of wealth production per\nacre. In the ten-year period from 1900 to 1910, the population increased\n24.6 per cent and the area of tillable land 3.6 per cent. The census\nreports also show that Hawaii is already cultivating its land far more\nintensively than the mainland states; for example, it supports\ntwenty-two times as many persons per acre of improved arable land as the\nagricultural state of North Dakota. Clearly, the problem in Hawaii is\npeculiarly difficult.\n\nIt is true, also, that practically all tropical industries demand a\nplentiful supply of cheap labour. Labour in Hawaii is neither cheap nor\nplentiful. In this respect, the Islands are at a disadvantage compared\nwith nearly all tropical countries, but much money has been spent on the\nindustries, and the results are certainly encouraging.\n\nHow to secure cheap labour has always been a serious question for the\nplanters. The Bureau of Immigration was established in 1876. When the\nReciprocity Treaty with the United States was signed, several thousand\nPortuguese were sent for by the government and the planters, and many\nof them have remained in the country and become good citizens. About the\nyear 1888, however, it was decided that the Chinese and the Japanese\nshould be encouraged to come, because the cost of transportation for\nthem was so much less. For some years the larger part of the labourers\nwere of these two nationalities. The Japanese are still far in excess of\nall others, numbering over 93,000. After annexation, when the Congress\nof the United States prohibited immigration by the yellow races, Hawaii\nwas obliged to seek a supply from other sources. Filipinos, of whom\nthere are only 8,000, are next in number to the Japanese; Portuguese,\nChinese, Spaniards, and Porto Ricans stand next.\n\nAfter the expenses of the voyage were paid, the labourers did not always\nkeep their agreement to work, so contract labour was introduced.\nAlthough some objections have been made to the contract system in\nHawaii, it must have proved fairly satisfactory to both parties, for in\nthose days a large number of labourers would sign a second contract on\nthe same terms, showing at least that they were well treated and paid\naccording to agreement.\n\nIn some cases, Chinese and Japanese labourers remained in the Islands\nafter their contract expired, and settled there permanently. Many of\nthe Chinese became merchants. The Portuguese went into fruit raising,\nand the Japanese kept mostly to the coffee plantations. In those days,\nthe Japanese had labour unions, and they were sometimes troublesome.\n\nHawaii, owing to the lack of coal and iron and other minerals, can never\nbe a manufacturing country, hence must always depend largely upon the\nUnited States for such goods. The Islands spend a large part of\n$60,000,000 yearly for imported articles, although, since Hawaii is a\nterritory of the United States, goods received from the American\nmainland are not classified in census returns as imports.\n\nWith the opening of the Panama Canal, the Hawaiian Islands are a\nnecessary coaling station between the Atlantic Coast and the Far East.\nIn anticipation of increased traffic, the harbours have been enlarged,\nnew wharves built, a floating drydock installed, the channel widened and\ndeepened in the harbour of Honolulu, breakwaters built at Hilo and\nKahului, modern freight- and coal-handling apparatus provided, and fuel\noil depots established.\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER V\n\nIN AND OUT\n\n\nHonolulu itself the traveler may perhaps be able to see in a day, with\nAmerican rush, while the steamer stops on the way to Japan. To take\ntrips on Oahu, go surf-riding, indulge in a luau, visit the plantations,\nand make an excursion to the volcanoes in the other islands, you must\nstay at least a few weeks, so that you may really see it all and have\ntime to dream of its wonderful beauties.\n\nHonolulu is the oldest, and so by far the most attractive, town in the\nIslands. Besides visits to Waikiki, the Pali, and Punchbowl, there are\nmany delightful excursions on the island of Oahu. The Trail and Mountain\nClub has made excellent paths to the mountain tops, where you can get\nsuperb views. The lovely falls of Kaliuwaa are especially celebrated,\nwhile a trip to Hauula is pleasant. The coral gardens are entrancing,\nand near these one can see the largest wireless station in the Islands.\nIn the great pineapple district, Wahiawa, there is a good hotel and\nfine bass fishing, and not far away is a big military camp.\n\nTo-day the excursion to the other islands is made fairly comfortable on\nthe steamers of the Inter-Island Navigation Company, and one can motor\nto the very brink of Kilauea. But at the time of our first visit the\njourney was something to be endured, for the sake of the wonders at the\nend. The story has been often told by travelers, yet it may be worth\nwhile to recount our own experiences.\n\nThe trip certainly could not be recommended for pleasure in those days.\nThe tiny boat was loaded down with pigs and cattle and sickly smelling\nsugar. The crossings were far worse than the English Channel, and our\nwretched little steamer reeled before the winds and tossed upon the\nwaves. To add to our discomfort, the boat was by no means swift, and\nhours were consumed between the innumerable small landing-places. When\nwe had the pleasure of stepping on solid earth once more, we found very\npoor hotels, if you could call them by that name, and finally, we were\ndisappointed in the volcano itself, which was not active enough to suit\nus.\n\n[Illustration: LEPER COLONY, ISLAND OF MOLOKAI.]\n\nAt our departure from Honolulu, we were quite covered with leis by the\nkind friends who gathered at the dock to see us off. Our boat plunged\nalmost immediately into the high seas of the channel between Oahu and\nMolokai. As we passed the latter island, we had a distant view of the\nleper colony, on a triangle of level land, at the foot of a precipice\nthree thousand feet high that effectually guards the patients from the\nlandward side.\n\nAt first the lepers resisted the attempt to banish them to the colony,\nand their relatives, who seemed to have no fear of the disease,\nconcealed those who were afflicted, but this opposition decreased as the\nnatives learned that the lepers were to be supported in comfort by the\nGovernment. They have a school, a library, newspapers, musical\ninstruments, a theater, even moving-picture shows now, I am told--in\nshort, everything is done to make their lives as pleasant and\ncomfortable as possible.\n\nMark Twain writes of a beautiful custom in the colony. \"Would you\nexpect,\" he says, \"to find in that awful leper settlement a custom\nworthy of transplanting to your own country? When death sets open the\nprison door of life there the band salutes the very soul with a burst of\ngolden music.\"\n\nOn this island where the natives have retained their primitive habits\nand beliefs more than on the others of the group, the Poison God was\nsaved at the time the idols were destroyed, a hundred years ago. It was\nkept here in charge of kahunas until near the end of the last century,\nand it is not definitely known whether it may not even now be in\nexistence. This hideous image seems to have had the power to kill those\nwho handled it. It has been suggested that it was made of some poisonous\nwood, and only the priests knew how to hold it without harm.\n\nThe boat reeled on through another rough passage to the double island of\nMaui, consisting of two great mountain peaks joined by a low isthmus of\nlava, which by degrees filled up the channel between the two original\nislands. We made endless stops, and by means of small boats took on and\noff freight, cattle, and passengers--native, Chinese and Japanese.\n\nOur first landing was at Lahaina, once the capital of the group and the\nrendezvous for all the whaling ships in the Pacific. Now it is a\ndilapidated village, attractive only for its beautiful situation.\n\nAt Wailuku, at the northern end of the isthmus, was the home of \"Father\nAlexander,\" well known as one of the early missionaries. The name\nWailuku means \"Water of Destruction.\" A great battle was fought near\nhere by Kamehameha the Great.\n\nUnfortunately we were unable to see the Ditch Trail, so well described\nby Jack London, or visit the famous Iao Valley, of which we had read\nsuch glowing descriptions. The entrance to this \"gulch\" is by a dark,\nwooded gorge that broadens out into an amphitheater surrounded by\nprecipices as lofty as those of the Yosemite. These cliffs are covered\nwith masses of trees, shrubs, and graceful, feathery ferns, which are\nveiled in turn by the mists from a thousand waterfalls. At the head of\nthe valley stands the Needle, a natural watch-tower--of rock, but green\nwith a luxuriant vegetation--to which the defeated army retreated in the\nbattle of the Wailuku.\n\nEast Maui consists entirely of the huge extinct volcano of Haleakala,\n\"house built by the sun.\" This, the largest extinct volcano on the\nsurface of the globe, lifts its enormous crater, twenty miles in\ncircumference, to the height of ten thousand feet above the sea. Some\ntitanic eruption blew off the top of the mountain and scooped it out to\nthe depth of two thousand feet. From the bottom of this vast cavity rise\nmany cones--the largest a hill of seven hundred feet--and there are two\ngreat gaps in the walls, through which lava flows once made their way\ndown to the plain. Here and there on the desert that forms the floor of\nthe crater are scattered clumps of silversword, with long leaves shining\nin the sun. This plant grows only at a high altitude. Hunting for it is\nlike hunting for the edelweiss in Switzerland. Its nearest botanical\nrelative is found in the Himalaya Mountains. From the highest point of\nthe rim of Haleakala these plants are said to appear about the size and\nbrightness of silver dollars.\n\nGlad enough we were to land at Hilo--Hawaiian for \"new moon.\" It takes\nits name from the superb crescent of the bay, two miles in length,\nperhaps the most beautiful on the shores of the Pacific Ocean. At one\nend of the semicircle is Cocoanut Island, crowded with glorious palms\nthat seem eager for the salt water, stretching their heads far out over\nit, as if they would drink it up. As it is on the windward side of the\nisland, the trade winds bring Hilo a yearly rainfall of 150 inches, and\nthe result is seen in the luxuriance of the vegetation, which nearly\nhides the buildings of the little city in its depths. With the bay in\nfront, the dense forest belt in the rear, and the towering masses of\nMauna Kea and Mauna Loa in the background, the situation of Hilo is\nglorious in its beauty.\n\n[Illustration: SILVERSWORD IN BLOOM, IN THE CRATER OF HALEAKALA.]\n\nOn the thirty-mile trail to the crater we passed first between the\nbrakes of cane plantations, then through a fine tropical forest. Among\nthe trees we could see many gay and beautiful flowers, curious fruits\nand enormous tree ferns, while in the interior were lovely glades and\nthe little bungalows of the coffee planters. But the island was only\njust being developed, so there were numbers of ranches in the first\nstages of raw newness.\n\nA search through the forests on some of the islands would disclose the\nbeautifully coloured landshells. These exquisite little creatures grow\non the leaves of the trees. Many of the native birds have become\nextinct; there were originally seventy varieties. Game birds, however,\nhave been introduced from America and China, and from other countries\nboth north and south, including wild turkeys, quail, pheasants and\nducks.\n\nWe arrived at the crater late at night, to find only a miserable hotel\nwith a drunken proprietor. (Liars had told us it was good.) We were\nforced to pass the night there, but stayed the next day only long enough\nto visit the crater.\n\nKilauea was for us a great disappointment. It is not imposing in its\nsituation, lying low on the gradual slope of Mauna Loa. We had been\nthrilled by pictures of the great pit of Halemaumau, the \"house of\neverlasting fire.\"[10] We had read of fountains of fire thrown a\nthousand feet into the air, of great fissures from which burst clouds of\ndeadly sulphurous vapours, of indescribable terrors as huge billows of\nglowing lava surged against the rim of the pit, of changing colours,\nmarvelous beauty, of ropes and serpents of cooling rock in a myriad\nwrithing and contorted shapes, of raging floods pouring down to the\nplain in rivers of fire from one-half to two miles in width. But alas!\nnone of these wonders were for us. We saw only a far-stretching lake of\ncold, black lava, over which we could walk for miles, as safe as if we\nwere at home. Out of a pit in the center rose a column of white\nvapour--which did not even smell infernal. Pele was sleeping.\n\nWe had three days to wait in Hilo until our steamer should be ready to\nreturn to Honolulu. The hotel was a funny little one, near the sea, but\nwe were fairly comfortable, and amused ourselves in various ways. For\none thing, we tried several of the delicious tropical fruits that were\nto be had here--water-lemons, mangoes, papayas, mountain apples and\nguavas. We went on a picnic, and some one was kind enough to lend me a\nriding habit and a pony that had won some races. I rode astride, in\nnative fashion. This was my first but by no means my last experience of\nthis most natural and comfortable mode of riding. Then I had an old\nnative woman to _lomi-lomi_ me--Hawaiian for massage--as I was very lame\nfrom my long rides, and I was as much amused by her as benefited by her\ntreatment.\n\n[Illustration: FIRE HOLE, KILAUEA.]\n\nWe decided this was our opportunity to see a hula, and asked the\ncoachman at the hotel to make arrangements for us at a native house. As\npart of the preparations, he gave the performers some wine, so the dance\nwas in full swing when we arrived. They had made leis, which they put on\nus and also on themselves. A fat but good looking native woman in a\nholoku danced, while some others played. Another pretty native woman\nsaid she was dying to dance, but her husband, a white man, was not\nwilling, and the last time she did it he beat her, so she did not dare\nto try again. It was a strange scene--the native house, the dim lights,\nand the wild, suggestive dance.\n\nThe trip back to Honolulu, though only two hundred miles in length,\noccupied two nights and a day of rough and tumble sailing, after which\nwe were happy to get to our bungalow and Chinaman once more.\n\nNow, the Inter-Island boats leave Honolulu twice a week for Hilo and\nonce a week for Kona and Kau, on the lee side of the island. It is quite\na different trip from that in the old days. On the way to Hilo the first\nlanding is usually at Kawaihae, an insignificant village, of no interest\nexcept for the great heiau of Kamehameha I, the last heathen temple\nerected in the Islands, dating from 1791. It is over two hundred feet\nlong and one hundred feet wide, and the walls are twelve feet thick at\nthe base. When this temple was dedicated to the favourite war-god of the\nKing, besides vast quantities of fruit and great numbers of hogs and\ndogs, eleven human beings were sacrificed on the altar.\n\nHilo is to-day a modern city of 10,000 people, and the shipping point\nfor all the sugar raised on the windward side of the island. A\nbreakwater now in process of construction will make its harbour a\nperfectly safe anchorage for merchant ships.\n\nOne may make the entire circuit of the island by motor from Hilo. On a\nbranch road from the highway to Kilauea is Green Lake, an emerald-tinted\nsheet of water occupying an old crater. In the forest surrounding this\nlake the rare pink begonia, an exquisite plant, used to grow, but I am\ntold by Mr. Castle it has become extinct.\n\nContinuing to the southwest, the road passes through the district of Kau\nto Kona. Here, indeed, is the \"Paradise of the Pacific.\" Protected from\nthe trade winds by the huge mountain masses of Mauna Loa and Hualalai,\nit enjoys mild breezes from the west, which blow in from the sea all day\nlong but give place at sunset to a wind from the mountain that cools the\nnight. The Hawaiians have a saying that in Kona \"people never die; they\ndry up and blow away.\" Daily showers toward sunset and at night keep the\nvegetation ever fresh and green, and make this a rich agricultural\nregion.\n\nHonaunau, in Kona, contains the largest of the \"cities of refuge,\" in\nthe walls of which are stones weighing several tons raised as high as\nsix feet from the ground. Within these massive walls were three large\nheiaus, also houses for the priests and refugees. The gates were always\nopen, and the fugitive who had crossed the threshold was absolutely\nsafe. Old men, women, little children, defeated soldiers, all were\nreceived here, and when once the great gods had taken them under their\nprotection, they were safe even, when they returned to their homes.\n\nIt was on the coast of Kona, at Kaawaloa, that Captain Cook was killed\nby the natives. A monument has been erected there, which bears this\ninscription: \"In Memory of the Great Circumnavigator Captain James Cook,\nR. N., who discovered these islands on the 18th of January, A. D. 1778,\nand fell near this spot on the 14th of February, A. D. 1779. This\nmonument was erected in November, A. D. 1874, by some of his fellow\ncountrymen.\"\n\nAt Kailua, a seashore village further north, is the old palace of the\nkings of the islands. This is far from imposing in its appearance. At\nthis place one may watch a primitive method of shipping cattle. With\ntheir horns tied to the side of a rowboat, the poor creatures are\ndragged through the water to the steamer, then are hoisted on board by\npulleys.\n\nThe road passes next through the Kohala district, in which the town of\nthat name is of interest as the birthplace of Kamehameha the Great. The\nKohala ditch, twenty-five miles long, brings water from the mountains to\nthe sugar plantations, fifteen miles of the way through tunnels. One may\nleave the main road here and take a horseback ride along this ditch,\nfrom which one can enjoy the magnificent scenery of the Waipio and\nWaimanu valleys, enormous \"gulches,\" separated by sheer precipices\nhundreds of feet in height.\n\n[Illustration: ON THE SHORES OF KAUAI, THE \"GARDEN ISLAND.\"]\n\nThe trip to Kauai, the \"Garden Island,\" from Honolulu, requires but a\nsingle night, but is a rough passage. At Waimea Captain Cook made his\nfirst landing on the Islands. Here, too, is the ruined fort built by a\nRussian trader, and over which the Russian flag was raised.\n\nThe trip through the Waimea Gulch, which is called a miniature Grand\nCanyon of the Colorado, rewards the traveler with magnificent scenery.\nAt the deepest part the cliffs are 3,000 feet high and the valley is a\nmile in width. It is said that \"in the decomposing rocks the colours are\nas vivid as though volcanic fires were still at work.\"\n\nOn the shore, at the extreme western point of the island, are the\nBarking Sands, a row of sand dunes. \"The wind on the sands makes them\nrustle like silk; to slide down them produces a sound like thunder; to\nstamp on them makes them cry out in different cadences.\" Not far away is\nan old bathing beach, where a bath was supposed to bring good luck.\n\nAt Hanalei River is one of the most ancient of the deep-water fish\nponds. According to an old tradition, this was built in a single night\nby Menehunes, a mythical race of dwarfs, who were noted for their\nindustry and mechanical skill and their feats of engineering.\n\nEverywhere one is struck by the preponderance of Japanese among the\ninhabitants. Since this great war broke out, Japan has taken from\nGermany the Ladrone Islands, just north of Guam, on the way to the\nPhilippines. She has also taken the Marshall Islands, which bring her\noutposts fifteen hundred miles nearer to the Pacific coast of America.\nIf we are inclined to be a bit pessimistic over the future fate of\nHawaii, perhaps a piece of recent news from Nippon may encourage us.\n\nJapan has just passed a law permitting Japanese to become American\ncitizens. As nearly half the present inhabitants of the Islands are\nJapanese and 4,000 Japanese children are born there in a year, this is\nan interesting consideration when difficulties between Japan and America\nare talked of. The Japanese-American Citizens' Association was organized\nby a few Japanese who are citizens by right of birth, and has grown to a\nmembership of more than fifteen hundred. It takes an interest in\nmunicipal affairs, discusses the questions of the day, and teaches young\nHawaiian-born Japanese the principles and duties of good citizenship.\nRev. S. Sokabe, of Honolulu, gives its members the following advice:\n\n\"Hawaiian-born Japanese have a great mission to-day. The Japanese of\nHawaii must become the pacificators should trouble come between Japan\nand America.... You owe it to yourselves to do this. Learn to be good\nAmerican citizens, and then you will be able to help in case of trouble.\nYou can do more to keep peace than ambassadors and ministers.... If\ntrouble should come with Japan, you must remember that you are the sons\nof the President, not the sons of the Emperor.\"\n\nUnder the old Japanese law Japanese born in Hawaii were still subjects\nof Japan. Under the law lately enacted by the Diet and House of Peers of\nJapan, which went into effect June 1, 1916, all Japanese born in a\nforeign country have the right at the age of fifteen to decide whether\nthey will become subjects of Japan or of the country of their birth;\nthey must, however, first get the consent of their parents before giving\nup their citizenship in Japan.\n\nPatriotic Americans should no longer think of Hawaii as she was eighteen\nyears ago at the time of annexation. Then the Japanese labourer on the\nsugar plantations was an alien and un-American. Now he is a factor and\nhis children a greater factor in the American civilization of the\nPacific!\n\nMoreover, to show how American and patriotic most of the islanders are,\nI give an account of the celebration of Washington's Birthday, when a\nsplendid parade took place. It included the military and naval forces of\nthe Islands, as well as Hawaiians, Chinese and Japanese--all helping to\nmake it a success.\n\nThe native police led the procession on horseback. In quick succession\nthe troops of the cavalry rode by, saluting the Governor as they passed\nthe reviewing stand. The First Field Artillery followed, with their\nguns. Then the \"Dough Boys\"--as the infantry men are called--companies\nfrom the Second and the Twentieth United States Infantry; after these\ncame the bluejackets from the four United States warships lying in the\nharbour, with their field pieces, each manned by a gun crew; then the\nmarines and the Red Cross brigade. The cadets of the school for young\nHawaiians and the National Guard of Hawaii presented a fine military\nappearance.\n\nOne of King Kalakaua's descendants, Prince Kuhio, and his brother's son,\nlittle Prince Kalakaua, were among the leaders; also the so-called\nIsland Princesses, all on horseback. They were chosen to represent the\nfive large islands, and had escorts of young girls on horseback dressed\nin the pau, followed by some lively cowboys on ponies.\n\nThen came the floats, from which confetti were thrown. One float\nrepresented an elaborate tableau of a battle between the new Chinese\nrepublic and the old Manchu dynasty. Some took the part of the new army\nwith their modern uniforms, and others in the old costumes lay very\nrealistically dead behind their guns.\n\nAs evening came on the Japanese people began to assemble in the park\ndown in the Oriental quarter, and from there marched to the palace\ngrounds, then past the four American battleships at the docks, where\nthey gave their _banzai_ for the sailors, and were given in return a\nhearty American \"three cheers,\" showing the good feeling between the two\ncountries.\n\nIn view of the strategic value of the Islands, which, for more than\nfifty years, American naval officers have endeavoured to impress upon\nour Government, it is pleasant to learn of the loyalty and whole-hearted\nAmericanism of the people of Hawaii. If Oahu, Guam and the Panama Canal\nare well fortified and sufficient numbers of troops and warships are\nstationed at these posts they will protect our Pacific coast better\nthan any number of harbour defenses.\n\nAnd now, with the banzai of these newest Americans ringing in our ears,\nwe must say our \"_Aloha_,\" to these dream Islands, almost too perfect to\nbe real. We say farewell, but the Spell of Hawaii will always be upon\nus.\n\n\n\n\n[Illustration: PHILIPPINE ISLANDS]\n\n\n\n\nTHE PHILIPPINES\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER I\n\nMANILA AS WE FOUND IT\n\n\nHigh on the bridge of the Pacific Mail Steamer _Siberia_ we stood as we\npassed through the Boca Chica--the narrow channel--into the historic\nwaters of Manila Bay. On one side was the mountainous island of\nCorregidor, rising steeply out of the sea and masking in its tropic\ngrowth many batteries and guns, on the other was the splendid mountain,\nMariveles, and in the distance fine ranges rising from the sparkling\nocean. Far away on the horizon, across the huge bay, lay Manila, the\ncapital of the Philippine Islands.\n\nThree weeks before we had left Hawaii, two days later we had steamed by\nMidway Island. Then we passed a few days in Japan, and coasted along the\nsuperb island of Formosa, rightly named \"the beautiful\"--where great\nmountains dipped down into the still sea--and now we were entering the\nPhilippines, the real objective point of the official party--there were\neight of us--in which we were so fortunate as to be included. We were\nat last going to see the interesting results of Spanish rule for three\ncenturies, upon which were being grafted all the energy and scientific\nand social knowledge of the twentieth-century American.\n\nAlthough both Hawaii and the Philippines are under American rule, they\nare like different worlds. The Land of the Palm and Pine is a much\nbigger problem for the United States than Hawaii. The latter is nearer\nhome, a smaller group of islands, and is quite Americanized. It is the\ncommercial hub of the Pacific, an important coaling station, an outlying\nprotection for the California coast. The natives are of Polynesian\nextraction and American education; they are quite unlike the Filipinos\nin character, who are Malaysian and have had centuries of Spanish\ninfluence. The Filipinos clamour for independence, the Moros and the\nwild tribes must be carefully handled, while the Hawaiian is contented\nwith his lot. Besides the necessity of maintaining an army in the\nPhilippines so far from home, one hundred and one other difficulties are\nto be considered. With these facts in mind, we looked forward to\ninteresting experiences in the Islands, and we were not disappointed.\n\n[Illustration: GOVERNOR GENERAL CAMERON FORBES.]\n\nAs we approached Manila, some small scout boats, all flag bedecked,\ncame out and joined us, and fell in behind in procession, then larger\nboats, one bringing the excellent Constabulary Band, which played gaily.\nAnother, which had officials on board, exchanged greetings with us\nacross the water, and others with unofficial people added their welcome.\nQuarantine was made easy, and all difficulties with customs officials\nwere spared us. When we reached the dock it was massed with the people\nwho had landed from the boats and with crowds from the town.\n\nAt once Governor General Cameron Forbes came on board to greet the\nSecretary of War, and then followed a reception, the guests ranging from\nthe apostolic delegate in his robes, the consular officials and insular\nofficers, and the army and navy in spotless gold-braided uniforms, to\nthe leading citizens, very intelligent looking and well mannered, and\nmembers of the Assembly. The dock was lined with troops, who paid the\nmilitary honours.\n\nAfter the reception on shipboard the Secretary and Mrs. Dickinson and\nthe official members of the party were whirled off in autos, with a\nsquadron of cavalry clattering along as escort. Another motor was\nwaiting for us, and we soon joined the procession as it moved to the\npalace.\n\nWe were much interested in the sights in the streets. There were\nnumbers of _carromatos_, little covered two-wheeled carriages, drawn by\nstocky Filipino ponies. The streets in this part of the town are wide,\nand the houses have overhanging balconies, in Spanish style. In honour\nof the Secretary, the buildings were draped with flags. Near the wharf\nthe land had lately been filled in, and great docks were in\nconstruction. There was a new boulevard near the old Luneta, and an\navenue named after President Taft, besides a big hotel and a hospital\nthat had then just been finished. The harbour was filled with vessels,\nelectric cars were running, and autos were to be seen, so at first it\nall looked quite up to date, until you met a carabao slowly swaying down\nthe street, hitched to a two-wheeled cart, with a brown boy in red\ntrousers, _pi\u00f1a_ shirt and a big straw hat sitting on his back--\"carry\nboy,\" as Secretary Dickinson named the animal. The \"carry boys\" do not\nlike white people, and sometimes charge them, stamping and goring them\nwith their horns, but a small Filipino boy seems to have perfect control\nof them, and if they are allowed occasionally to wade in a puddle, which\ncools them off, they do not \"go _loco_,\" or crazy.\n\nIt was in the palace of Malaca\u00f1an, or Government House, as it is\nsometimes called, that Secretary and Mrs. Dickinson and ourselves\nstayed with the Governor General. This is a large, rambling structure in\na garden by the Pasig River. Under the porte-coch\u00e8re we entered a stone\nhall, off which were offices, then went up a long flight of stairs to a\nbig hall looking into a court. This hall was hung with oil paintings of\nSpanish governors, quite well done by native artists, and in the center\nstood a huge one-piece table of superb _nara_ wood, covered with\ngleaming head-axes and spears, _bolos_, _krisses_, _campilans_, and\n_lantankas_, used by the wild tribes and Moros.\n\nOur rooms were large and empty, as was the entire palace--indeed, so are\nall the houses on account of the heat. The polished floors, too, are\nmade of huge planks, sometimes of such valuable tropical woods as\nrosewood and mahogany, and are left bare. It took a little time to\naccustom ourselves to the hard beds with rattan bottoms, covered only by\ntwo sheets. They were carved and four-posted, and draped with mosquito\nnetting. Two little brown lizards squeaked at us in a friendly manner,\nand crept down the walls, out of curiosity, no doubt, little ants kept\nbusily crawling across the room in a line, and the mosquitoes that hid\nin my clothes in the rack during the daytime buzzed about at night. The\nheat was great, notwithstanding the electric fan, but the sliding\nscreens that formed the sides of the room gave us some relief. These\nshutters are like Japanese _shoji_, made of small panes of an opalescent\nshell to soften the intensity of tropic sunlight, with green slit bamboo\nshades pulled halfway down.\n\nWhen I used to write or read I sat on my rattan bed under the mosquito\nnetting; there I could look out of the parted sides of the house to the\nred hibiscus border of the garden stretching along the narrow Pasig.\nBoatmen, in conical straw hats, perched at the ends of their _bancas_,\npaddled the hollowed-out logs rapidly through the water, or floated idly\nby, smoking their cigarettes; these boats were loaded to the gunwale\nwith green grasses, and had canopies of matted straw. Launches, too,\ncame chugging past, towing the big high poops covered with\nstraw-screened _cascos_. Over beyond the river was a flat all in a green\ntangle, with the thatched _nipa_ houses on their stilts. For the palace\nstands outside the more thickly settled parts of the city, which in turn\nsurround the walled town.\n\n[Illustration: _The Pasig River_]\n\nManila to-day is a curious mixture of native _nipa_ shacks and old\nSpanish churches and forts with the up-to-date American buildings and\nimprovements. There are the different quarters, as in all cities of\nthe Orient--Chinese, native and so on--and each has its own distinctive\nsights. The street smells, which are never lacking in a city, reminded\nus of India.\n\nThe walled city has picturesque gates breaking through the old gray\nbattlements--the massive wall was begun in 1590--and ancient sentry\nhouses at the corners, while behind rise the white balconies of old\nconvents and monasteries, and buildings now used for government\npurposes, and towers of churches. The old moats have been filled up for\nsanitary reasons and are being made into wide sweeps of lawn and flower\ngardens, and the famous Malecon, the drive beneath the city walls, which\nwas once upon the sea front, has been removed too far inland by the\nfilling of the harbour to retain its old charm.\n\n\"Intramuros\" (within the walls) more than half the land belongs to the\nChurch, and church buildings abound. These are really inferior, compared\nwith those we saw in Mexico, but some of them are very old. The\nAugustinian Church, finished in 1605, has enormously thick walls and a\nstone crypt of marvelous strength.\n\nIn the center of the town is Plaza McKinley, but the main business\nstreet is the narrow Escolta, made to look still narrower by the\noverhanging second stories of the buildings.\n\nWe visited the botanical gardens, a shaded park with winding paths\nbeneath acacias and mango trees. We drove, too, through the narrow\nstreets of the suburb of San Miguel, where we looked into tangled\ngardens of tropical plants, behind which were houses with broad verandas\nand wide-opening sides, covered by a wonderful screen of a sort of mauve\nmorning glory, which blooms, however, all day long.\n\nThe native houses are built of bamboo with braided grass walls and\nthatched roofs, and are raised on stilts because of the rainy season. We\nwent to order some embroidery one day of a Tagalog woman. Climbing a\nladder into a small house, we saw the whole family sitting on the floor,\nworking over a long frame. In some of these shacks they have a small\nroom for visitors, with chairs and a table, and cheap prints of the\nVirgin on the walls. Under the house are kept usually a pig and a pony.\nOne woman was very successful--she not only had waist patterns to show\nand to sell, but had a standing order from Marshall Field, in Chicago.\nWe also visited a still more prosperous embroidery house, built of\nstucco, with a courtyard. These people were Spanish _mestizos_.\n\nA visit to the cigarette factory to which we were taken by Mr. Legarda\nshowed us one of the characteristic industries of the city and gave us\nan idea of the deftness and quickness of those who are employed in this\nwork. The little women who pack the cigarettes can pick up a number of\nthem and tell in a twinkle by the feeling just how many they hold, and\nthe cigar wrappers work with greatest rapidity and sureness and make a\nperfect product. It was all very clean and fresh, with hundreds of\nemployees in the large, airy rooms. A band played as we went through the\nbuilding, and we had a generous luncheon and received innumerable\npresents from the managers.\n\nOpportunity was given us for sundry little exploring trips into the\nsuburbs of Manila.[11] We rode on horseback, in company with Secretary\nDickinson, Governor Forbes and General Edwards, among little native\nshacks, through overgrown lanes beyond the city, and along the beach,\nwhere we saw fishermen's huts and men mending their nets, to the Polo\nClub. The Governor, who was most generous in giving money of his own to\nbenefit the Islands, not only built the clubhouse and laid out the field\nat his own expense, but even imported Arabian horses and good Western\nponies. This club is a fine thing to keep army officers in good\ncondition and give them exercise and amusement, as well as to bring good\nhorses into the Islands. The clubhouse, of plaited grasses, bamboo and\nwood, is on the edge of the beach, from which one can see the beautiful\nsunsets across the bay and catch the faint line of the mountains in the\ndistance. It all seemed very far-away and tropical and enchanting.\n\nThe English-speaking residents of Manila have various other clubs, among\nwhich the Army and Navy, the English, and the University are perhaps the\nmost important. The Officers' Club, at Fort McKinley (seven miles from\nManila) has a superb situation, commanding a fine view of the mountains.\n\nAs we landed in Manila early Sunday morning, we were in time for service\nin the Episcopal cathedral, which had just been built. This is a\nhandsome building in the Spanish style, large and airy, with an\neffective altar. It was erected by an American friend of Bishop Brent,\nthe Episcopal bishop, who has done fine work in the Islands. According\nto a story that is related of this good man, he made a journey at one\ntime into the interior of Luzon, where he found the natives sadly in\nneed of instruction in ways of personal cleanliness. As soon as he\nreached the mail service again, he wrote to America for a ton of soap,\nwhich was duly shipped to him and used for the purification of the\naborigines.\n\nI was glad to visit also Bishop Brent's orphan school, consisting\nprincipally of American-mestizo children. The native women, when\ndeserted by their white lovers, generally marry natives, who often\nill-treat these half-white children, and sometimes sell them as slaves.\nMiss Sibley, of Detroit, was in charge of this school, which was in a\nbig, comfortable house near the native shacks on the edge of the town,\nand had twelve pupils at that time.\n\nA convent of Spanish nuns on a small island in the river, interested me\ngreatly. It was then under the supervision of the government, for it was\nat that time not only a convent but also a poorhouse, a school for\norphans, an asylum for insane men and women, and a reformatory for bad\nboys. The embroidery done at the convent was better than that made by\nthe natives in their houses, as the thread used was finer. The nuns\ncharged more than the natives, but they would also cut and sew, thus\nfinishing the garments. Articles embroidered by native women were never\nmade up by them, but had to be taken to a Chinese tailor.\n\nThe linen must first be bought, however, so I tried to do a little\nshopping in the city, but found it very unsatisfactory. The shops are\npoor, and, as one traveler has said, you can get nothing you want in\nthem, but plenty of things you don't want, for which you can pay a very\nhigh price.\n\nOne day I was taken to a cockpit, where a cockfight was to come off.\nThis is one of the characteristic amusements of the Filipinos, which\nthey have engaged in since the year 1500. It is so popular that it would\nbe difficult to put a stop to it all at once, but it has been restricted\nby the government to Sundays and legal holidays, which is something of a\nvictory. (They are also passionately fond of horse racing, in regard to\nwhich other restrictions have been made.) Outside, beggars, old and\nblind, were crawling over the ground; natives strolled around, petting\ntheir birds, which they carried under their arms; and vendors with dirty\ntrays of sweetmeats wandered about. We bought our tickets and passed\ninto the rickety amphitheater.\n\nCocks were crowing, and such a howling as went on, the audience all\nlooking toward us as we entered. It seemed as if they were angry with us\nfor stepping into the arena, and yet there was no other way to reach the\nseats. Our guides pointed to a shaky ladder that led into a gallery, but\nwe preferred to sit far back in the chairs about the pit. There were\nnatives, Chinese, and mestizos present. We soon discovered that they\nwere not angry with us, but we had entered at a moment when the betting\nwas going on, and the cocks in the ring were so popular that there was\ngreat excitement.\n\nEach cock was allowed to peck the neck of the other and get a taste of\nblood, while they were still held under their owners' arms. The fighting\ncocks did not look quite like ours. They were armed for the fray with\nsharp \"slashers\" attached to their spurs. When the betting had subsided\nthe cocks were left to themselves in the ring, and they generally went\nfor each other at once. What a hopping and scuttling! Feathers flew, the\ncrowd cheered, and the cocks went at each other again and again until\nthey were hurt or killed. The referee then decided upon the victor.\nSometimes the cocks did not seem to interest the crowd, and then their\nowners would take them out of the ring before fighting; at times the\ncocks refused to fight. It was not so exciting as I had expected, and\nwhen we considered that the birds were to be eaten anyway, it did not\nseem so cruel and terrible as I thought it would.\n\nSpeaking of cocks being eaten, the principal foods of the Filipinos are\nfowls and eggs, as well as rice, fish and carabao meat, but as the\n\"carry-boys\" are good workers they are not often eaten. Pigs are kept by\nthe Filipinos, and are put on a raised platform for about six weeks\nbefore killing, so as to keep them clean and fatten them with good food.\nSalads, crawfish and trout, as well as cocoanut milk, red wine and wild\ncoffee, are among the things they live on. Army people in the Islands\noften have, in addition, wild deer and wild boar which are shot by the\nAmerican officers, besides excellent game birds, such as the minor\nbustard, jungle fowl, wild chicken, quail, snipe and duck.\n\n[Illustration: MALACA\u00d1AN PALACE.]\n\nI was asked to receive with the Secretary and Mrs. Dickinson and General\nand Mrs. Edwards, at the Governor General's reception at Malaca\u00f1an,\nwhere we stood in line and shook hands with some seventeen hundred\npersons. It was a remarkable scene. The palace, which opens up\nhandsomely, and the terrace overhanging the river, were outlined by a\nmyriad electric lights, while launches came and went with guests, and\nthe Philippine Constabulary Band played in the interior court. The papal\ndelegate was there in his canonicals, with his accompanying monsignors,\nand barefooted friars in cowls. There were foreign consuls in their\nuniforms, and many Filipina women, with pretty manners and dainty ways,\nsome in their native dress, which is so quaint and gaily coloured.\nInsurrecto generals came, too, who looked like young boys, and members\nof the high courts, very wise and dignified.\n\nAfter most of the guests had arrived, there was a _rigodon_ of honour,\nin which all took part. The rigodon is the dance of the Filipinos, and\nof so much importance to them that it was considered essential that the\nSecretary and his party should be able to join in it. Accordingly, we\nhad all practised it on the ship before reaching Manila. It is said that\nex-President Taft won much of his way into the hearts of these island\npeople by his skill and evident delight in this dance, which is\nsomething like a graceful and dignified quadrille, with much movement\nand turning.\n\nTo show that traveling in an official party is not \"all play and no\nwork,\" I may just note the program carried out by the men on the day\nfollowing this reception. Rising at six o'clock and taking an early\nbreakfast, they went on board the commanding general's yacht and cruised\nacross Manila Bay to visit the new defenses on the island of Corregidor,\nwhich rises a sheer five hundred feet out of the water. For hours they\nmoved from one place to another in the heat, inspecting huge guns and\nmortars and barracks and storehouses, all hidden away so as not to be\nseen from the sea, although great gashes in the cliffs showed where the\ntrolley roads and the inclined planes ran. It is really the key to our\npossessions in the Far East. Thousands of men were working like ants all\nover the place. It was two o'clock before the party reached the tip-top,\nwhere they had a stand-up luncheon at the quarters of the commanding\nofficer. Then they came back to the yacht, and fairly tumbled down just\nwherever they happened to be for a siesta. They were then taken to\nCavite, ten miles away, which is one of the two naval stations. There\nthey landed again and visited the picturesque old Spanish fortifications\nand the quarters.\n\n[Illustration: MRS. ANDERSON IN FILIPINA COSTUME.]\n\nA _baile_, or ball, was given in honour of the Secretary by the\nPhilippine Assembly, at their official building, where all the ladies of\nour party wore the Filipina dress. This is ordinarily made of pi\u00f1a\ncloth, a cheap, gauzy material, manufactured from pineapple fiber. The\nwaist, called _camisa_, is made with winglike sleeves and a stiff\nkerchief-like collar, named _panuela_. The skirt may be of any material,\nquite often a handsome brocade, and among the Tagalogs a black silk\nopen-work apron finishes the costume. The white suits and uniforms of\nthe men and the bright-coloured dresses made this ball a gay and lively\nscene. The band played incessantly, and after the Secretary and Mrs.\nDickinson had stopped receiving at the head of the stairs, there was a\nrigodon, which we all danced in as stately a manner as we could. But my\nmost vivid recollection of the ball is of the heat and the pink\nlemonade, which poisoned a hundred people and made me deadly ill all\nthat night.\n\nThe Governor General gave a big dinner for the Secretary of War at the\npalace one evening. We assisted also at the opening of the new\ntheater--which is called the finest in the Far East--at which Marshall\nDarrach gave recitations from Shakespeare. I must not forget the gala\nperformance at the new theater, too, which was arranged by the society\npeople of the city. All the performers were amateurs, so we rather\ndreaded the evening, which promised to be interminable, but everything\nwas so good that the time passed quickly. The little ladies sang quite\nacceptably, and played the violin and the piano; and a lot of tiny tots,\nchildren of the best people, gave an amusing vaudeville that really was\nexceedingly funny and was much applauded. We could hardly believe that\nit was all amateur.\n\nThe Government Dormitory for Girls, which we visited, I found most\ninteresting. There were one hundred and fifty, eight sleeping in each\nroom. These girls came from different provinces all over the Islands. As\nthere are so many distinct dialects, some of them could understand one\nanother only in English, and no other language is allowed to be spoken.\nOne of the girls made a speech in English welcoming the Secretary and\ndid it extremely well. Having learned, among other things, to cook, they\ngave us delicious tea and cakes and candies on a half-open veranda among\nthe vines and Japanese lanterns. Some were taking the nurses' course,\nwhich seemed to be the most popular. These pretty girls danced for us in\ntheir stiff, bright-coloured costumes, swaying and waving their hands,\nand turning and twirling in their languid but dignified manner. It\nappeared to be a mixture of a Spanish and a native dance, and was\naltogether quite charming.\n\nA morning with Mr. Worcester at the Bureau of Science was most\ndelightful. This bureau is so much more than a museum of scientific\nspecimens that I cannot begin to do justice to it in a single paragraph.\nIt was started at first as a Bureau of Government Laboratories in charge\nof the chemical and biological work of the government, the departments\nof zo\u00f6logical and botanical research were subsequently added, and\nfinally the Bureau of Ethnology and the Bureau of Mines were\nincorporated with it. Not only were all these departments co\u00f6rdinated\nunder one head, preventing overlapping and securing economy and\nefficiency of administration, but this work was correlated with that of\nthe Philippine General Hospital and the College of Medicine and Surgery.\nWhen this comprehensive plan was formed all the scientific work of the\ngovernment was carried on in \"a hot little shack,\" and the scheme was\ncommonly referred to as \"Worcester's Dream,\" but at the time of our\nvisit the dream had come true. The departments were manned by thoroughly\ntrained men from the States, and the Bureau of Science was one of the\nworld's greatest scientific institutions.\n\nThe Philippine Bureau of Science \"is now dead.\" When the Democratic\nAdministration took charge it was announced that all theoretical\ndepartments, such as ethnology, botany, ornithology, photography and\nentomology (!) were to be \"reduced or eliminated.\" It was afterward made\nplain that all work which was considered practical would be continued,\nbut the mischief had been done, the men who made the institution had\nleft, and under present conditions it is impossible to secure others who\nare equally competent in their place. Our only consolation is to be\nderived, as Mr. Worcester himself says, \"from contemplating the fact\nthat pendulums swing.\"\n\nThough so recently established, the museum contained in 1910 a wonderful\nexhibit of the plants and animals of the Islands. We took a peep into\nthe butterfly room, where we admired some rare and lovely ones with a\nfeathery velvet sheen the colour of the sea. We saw also the huge brown\nAtlas moth touched with coral, like a cashmere shawl, with eyes of\nmother-of-pearl on his wings. We noticed that the females were larger\nthan the males, and even those of the same variety often differed\ngreatly in colour. In one case a female was big, and brown and violet\nin colour, while her mate was small, and blue and yellow.\n\nIn the next room were beetles, some of which were like the matrix of\nturquoise, and others had shimmering, changeable shades of green and\nbronze. There were beetles like small turtles, and long, horned beetles\nlike miniature carabaos.\n\nAfterward we visited the birds. Bright-coloured sun birds, with long\nbeaks, which feed on the honey of flowers; clever tailor birds, small\nand brown, with green heads and gray breasts, which sew leaves together\nwith vegetable fiber to make their nests; birds of whose nests the\nChinese make their famous soup, and the blue kingfishers, of whose\nbrilliant feathers these same Chinese make jewelry; fire-breasted birds,\ntoo, and five-coloured birds. There were birds that build their nest\nfour feet or more under the ground, and hornbills, that wall up their\nwives in holes in the trees while they are hatching their eggs, the\nmales bringing them food and dropping it through a small opening. There,\ntoo, I saw the fairy bluebird.\n\nNear by, we visited an orchid garden, and passed under gates and bamboo\ntrellises dripping with every kind of orchid. The Philippines are the\nparadise of these remarkable plants, and many are the adventures that\ncollectors of them have had in the interior of these Islands.\n\nThen we passed into the Jesuit chapel and museum. We were greeted at the\ndoor by several black-robed priests, who smiled and bowed and talked all\nat once. They escorted us first to the museum, where there were cases of\nshells--heart-shaped shells, trumpet shells, scalloped shells big enough\nfor a bathtub--all kinds of shells, and the paper nautilus, which is not\na shell but an egg case. Then there were land shells, polished red and\ngreen, Venus' flower baskets, exquisite glass sponges, corals of all\nkinds--fine branches of the red and the white--and an enormous turtle\nthat weighed fifteen hundred pounds.\n\nIn the cases at the side of the room were animals of the country--flying\nmonkeys, with sucking pads on their toes to help them climb the trees,\nbig, furry bats and flying lizards. A tiny buffalo, which was discovered\nonly a few years ago up in the hills, and a small spotted deer were in\nthe collection. A big monkey-catching eagle, white and brown, was here,\nand the paroquet that carries leaves for her nest in her red tail, as\nwell as a pigeon with ruffs of green and blue about her neck, and a\nbald crown, which was caused, the natives say, by flying so high that\nher head hit the sky.\n\nNumerous entertainments and receptions were crowded into that too short\nvisit to Manila. July 25th had been declared a national holiday. A\nmusical program was given in honour of the Secretary by five thousand\nManila school children. One afternoon Mrs. Dickinson received some of\nthe Filipina ladies, who sang and played on the piano quite well.\n\nAnother day the officers and ladies at Fort McKinley entertained the\nparty at luncheon at the Officers' Club. Before luncheon there was a\nmilitary review in which the troops from all over the islands\nparticipated, followed by some good shell firing out in the chaparral,\nas under war conditions, and a display of wireless work. A special drill\nwas given by Captain Tom Anderson--the son of General Anderson--whose\ncompany was one of the best drilled in the army, and went through the\nmanual and marching with only one order given, counting to themselves in\nsilence the whole seventeen hundred counts, all in perfect unison.[12]\n\nIn the Secretary of War's speech that afternoon he took occasion to say,\n\"General Duvall, you have not said too much in favour of the Army. You\nhave not overdrawn the picture, for a steadier moving column or brighter\neyed men and a more soldierly set of men I have never seen anywhere.\"\n\nThe reception by General and Mrs. Duvall was a brilliant affair, chiefly\nof the army and navy. The handsome house with its wide verandas stood in\na garden overlooking Manila Bay.\n\nOn the Luneta there was, one evening, the largest gathering that had\nassembled on that historic plaza since the days of the \"Empire,\" for the\nSecretary of War was expected to be there. The people hoped that he\nbrought with him a proclamation of immediate independence to be\nannounced at that time. The Luneta had once been at the edge of the\nwater, but a great space had been filled in beyond it, and buildings\nwere going up--a large hotel, which would make all the difference in the\nworld to tourist travel in the Philippines, and a huge Army and Navy\nClub--so that it was planned to remove the Luneta farther out some day,\nagain to the water's edge. On this particular evening, the oval park was\ncrowded with picturesque people, almost all the men in white, the\nsoldiers in their trig khaki, and the women in their gaily coloured\ndresses and panuelas. Rows of carriages circled round and round, as the\ntwo bands played alternately. After a time we left our automobiles and\nwalked in the throng. A magnificent sunset was followed by the gorgeous\ntints of the afterglow, and dusk came on and evening fell while we\nwatched and were watched. Soon a thousand electric lights, that were\ncarried in rows around the plaza and over the kiosks of the bands,\nsparkled out in the darkness. The beauty of the scene, the animation of\nthe crowd, driving or walking in groups, and the refreshing coolness\nafter the heat of the day, made this a lasting memory.\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER II\n\nTHE PHILIPPINES OF THE PAST\n\n\nHow have the Philippines come to present such a unique combination of\nSpanish and Malay civilization? Let us look into their past. We find for\nthe early days myths and legends, preserved by oral tradition. Two\nquaint stories told by the primitive mountain people, which show how\nthey believe the Islands first came into being and how the first man and\nwoman entered into this world, are worth transcribing for their na\u00efve\nsimplicity:\n\n\"A long time ago there was no land. There were only the sea and the sky.\nA bird was flying in the sky. It grew tired flying. It wanted something\nto rest upon. The bird was very cunning. It set the sea and sky to\nquarreling. The sea threw water up at the sky. The sky turned very dark\nand angry. Then the angry sky showered down upon the sea all the\nIslands. That is how the Islands came.\"\n\nThis second tale is even more child-like:\n\n\"A great bamboo grew on one of the Islands. It was very large around,\nlarger than any of the others. The bird lit on the ground and began to\npeck the bamboo. A voice inside said, 'Peck harder, peck harder.' The\nbird was frightened at first, but it wanted to know what was inside. So\nit pecked and pecked. Still the voice said, 'Peck harder, peck harder.'\nAt last a great crack split the bamboo from the bottom to the top. Out\nstepped a man and a woman. The bird was so frightened that it flew away.\nThe man bowed very low to the woman, for they had lived in different\njoints of the bamboo and had never seen each other before. They were the\nfirst man and woman in the world.\"\n\nThese natives believe there are good and evil spirits, and they invoke\nthe agency of the latter to explain the mystery of death. They say the\nfirst death occurred when the evil spirit lightning became angry with\nman and hurled a dangerous bolt to earth.\n\nThe first suggestion of real history is found in the traditions that\ntell of Malays from the south who came and settled on these islands. It\nis said a race of small black people were already here--the\nNegritos--who resembled the African negroes, and who retired into the\nhills before the invaders.\n\nNext we hear of a Mohammedan priest who came to the southern\nPhilippines and gave the people his religion. His followers have to this\nday been called Moros.\n\nIt was more than two centuries before Captain Cook visited Hawaii, that\nwhite men discovered the Philippines. Magellan, the famous Portuguese\nnavigator, while sailing in the service of Spain, landed on Mindanao and\nCebu, and took possession of the group in the name of the Spanish king.\nBefore starting from Seville on this voyage around the world, Magellan\nhad already spent seven years in India and sailed as far as Sumatra, so\nhe already knew this part of the world. This time he was in search of\nthe Spice Islands and of a passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific\nOcean. He had touched first at Teneriffe and then crossed the Atlantic\nto Brazil, making his way along the coast of South America. There were\nmany hardships and difficulties to contend with, and mutiny in the fleet\nresulted in several deaths. But, as we all know, he persevered, and on\nthe 15th of October, 1520, discovered the straits which were named after\nhim.\n\nThe Ladrones were reached after fourteen tedious weeks, and on St.\nLazarus' day, in 1521, the Philippines were sighted and named by him for\nthe saint. In the early times they were sometimes referred to by the\nSpaniards as the Eastern, and later as the Western, Islands. They were\nfinally named the Philippines by Ruy Lopez de Villalobos, after his\nking, Philip the Second.\n\nMagellan was quite unlike Captain Cook, whose visit to Hawaii has been\nmentioned. He was a nobleman and full of the religious enthusiasm that\nfired the Spaniards of his day. He was accompanied by several friars,\nwho at once began missionary work among the natives, and only a week\nafter his arrival the Cebuan chief and his warriors were baptized into\nthe Christian faith. Unfortunately, Magellan took sides with the Cebuans\nin their warfare against a neighbouring tribe, and in the battle he was\nkilled. After his death, the same chieftain turned on Magellan's\nfollowers, but some escaped to their ships. Out of two hundred and fifty\nmen who had set sail three years before, only eighteen, after suffering\nincredible hardships on the long journey by way of India and the Cape of\nGood Hope, returned safely to Spain.\n\nThe next explorer who touched at the Islands was the Englishman, Sir\nFrancis Drake, of Spanish Armada fame, who sailed in 1570 on a voyage\nround the world. We also hear of another Briton, William Dampier, a\nnoted free-booter, who, in 1685, tried to cross the Isthmus of Panama\nwith Captain Sharp. Three times he sailed round the world, and touched\nat the northern as well as the southern Philippine Islands.\n\nMagellan, Drake and Dampier gave the western world much knowledge of the\nFar East, but did not remain long enough in the Islands to have any\ngreat or lasting influence over the natives. The work of civilizing them\nwas left to Legaspi and the Spanish friars, who were the first real\nsettlers.\n\nIn 1565, the Philippines were occupied by an expedition under Miguel\nLopez de Legaspi, _alcalde_ of the City of Mexico, who was charged to\nopen a new route to Java and the Southern Islands. On his return voyage\nhe was to examine the ports of the Philippines, and, if expedient, to\nfound a colony there. In any case he was to establish trade with the\nIslands. The viceroy of Mexico charged him that the friars with the\nexpedition were to be treated with the utmost consideration, \"since you\nare aware that the chief thing sought after by His Majesty is the\nincrease of our holy Catholic faith and the salvation of the souls of\nthose infidels.\"\n\nCebu was occupied, and Manila was taken and made the seat of\ngovernment. The occupation of the Islands was not exactly by force of\narms, for there was no fighting, although they found the islands well\npopulated and the people more or less armed. The natives seemed to\nrecognize and submit to a better government and religion than they had\never known. The reports of the Spaniards of the time speak of the\nsuccess of small expeditions of perhaps a hundred men, who took over\nwhole provinces. These soldiers were accompanied by Spanish priests, who\nsettled among the people, preaching Christianity in the native tongues.\nThe friars persuaded them to give up their continual feuds and submit to\nthe central authority which the friars represented.\n\nLegaspi brought with him from Mexico four hundred Spanish soldiers.\nLater eight hundred more arrived, and civilian Spaniards, both married\nand single, sailed to the Islands as settlers. In 1591, according to the\nrecords of Spanish grants, there were 667,612 natives under Spanish\nrule, and twenty-seven officials to enforce the laws and preserve order.\nIt was reported that in a majority of the grants there was peace,\njustice and religious instruction. There were Augustinian, Dominican and\nFranciscan friars as well as secular clergy. These men were not only\npriests but also fighters and organizers, and did fine work for many\nyears, until long-continued possession of power gradually made the\norders corrupt and grasping.\n\nUpon their first arrival, the Spaniards found the people established in\nsmall villages, or _barangays_, where the chief lived surrounded by his\nslaves and followers. It was considered wise to continue this system,\nruling the villages through the local chieftain, whom the Spaniards\ncalled _cabeza de barangay_. Churches were erected, convent houses were\nbuilt about them, and the natives were urged to gather near by. It was\nordered that \"elementary schools should be established, in which the\nIndians will be taught not only Christian doctrine and reading and\nwriting but also arts and trades, so that they may become not only good\nChristians but also useful citizens.\"\n\nSo at the end of the sixteenth century the Philippines were at peace.\nThe natives were allowed to move from one town to another, but they were\nrequired to obtain permission, in order to prevent them from wandering\nabout without religious instruction. The tendency of the Malays is to\nseparate into small groups, and they have never been dwellers in large\ntowns. The Spanish priests, therefore, found a constant effort\nnecessary to keep them concentrated about the churches \"under the\nbells.\"\n\n[Illustration: \"UNDER THE BELLS.\"]\n\nThe fervour of religious reform which started in Germany was followed by\nan equal fervour within the Roman Catholic Church. The period of Julius\nII and Leo X was over; the Council of Trent had met. Ignatius Loyola had\nseen his visions and sent forth his company, and Spain was full of\npriests eager to serve God with the same stern energy which the previous\ngeneration had shown in the search for lands and gold and fabulous gems.\nNo duty was so grave as that of conformity to the Church, no stigma so\ngalling as that of heretic. To convert the heathen was an obligation\nbinding upon all men. All Spanish colonies were missions; the\nPhilippines were always rather a mission than a colony.\n\nUntil the revolt of 1896, Spain never found it necessary to hold the\nIslands by armed force; her dominion there was based rather on her\nconquest of the minds and souls of men. There had been a few uprisings,\nhowever, and early in the eighteenth century a Spanish governor and his\nson were murdered by a mob. But notwithstanding occasional difficulties,\nin the main there was peace until the civil service of the Philippines\nwas assimilated with that of Spain. Then officials became dependent upon\ntheir supporters at home, and were changed with every change of the\nministry. Some Spaniard writing at the time said that with the opening\nof the Suez Canal Spanish office holders descended on the Islands like\nlocusts.\n\nAt the end of the nineteenth century, the Spanish army had grown to\n17,859 of all ranks, only 3,005 of whom were Spaniards, and there was a\nconstabulary of over 3,000 officers and men, who were almost entirely\nnatives. The rule of Spain was secured by a native army. There could\nhave been no widespread discontent, or that army would not have remained\ntrue to its allegiance, especially as its recruits were obtained by\nconscription.\n\nThe chronicles remind us, however, that the Spaniards did not have\nthings all their own way. In the early days, they were at first friendly\nwith the Chinese, and Mexico carried on a flourishing trade with China\nby way of Manila until the pirate Li Ma Hong raided the Islands. The\nSpaniards were on good terms with the Japanese until the latter\nmassacred the Jesuit friars in Japan. When the Shogun Iyeyasu expelled\nthe priests he sent away even those who were caring for the lepers, and\nas a final insult, he sent to Manila three junks loaded with lepers,\nwith a letter to the governor general of the Philippines, in which he\nsaid that, as the Spanish friars were so anxious to provide for the poor\nand needy, he sent him a cargo of men who were in truth sore afflicted.\nOnly the ardent appeals of the friars saved these unfortunates and their\ncontaminated vessels from being sunk in Manila Bay. Finally the governor\nyielded, and these poor creatures were landed and housed in the leper\nhospital of San Lazaro, which was then established for their reception\nand which remains to-day.\n\nThe Spanish governors were also hampered by the lack of effective\nsupport from the older colony of Mexico, which was so much nearer than\nthe home land that they naturally turned to it for aid. One of them\nwrote pathetically to the King of Spain:\n\n\"And for the future ... will your Majesty ordain that Mexico shall\nfurnish what pertains to its part. For, if I ask for troops, they send\nme twenty men, who die before they arrive here, and none are born here.\nAnd if I ask for ammunition, they laugh at me and censure me, and say\nthat I ask impossible things. They retain there the freight money and\nthe duties; and if they should send to this state what is yours, your\nMajesty would have to spend but little from your royal patrimony.\"\n\nThe Portuguese were a source of anxiety to the colonists until Portugal\nfell into the hands of Spain. The Dutch, too, who were growing powerful\nin the Far East, even took Formosa, which brought them altogether too\nnear, but they were driven out of that island by the great Chinese\npirate Koxinga.[13]\n\nFrom the time of Legaspi to the end of Spanish rule there were\noccasional attacks upon the Chinese residing in the archipelago, who\nwere never allowed to live in the Islands without exciting protest and\ndislike, based partly upon religious, partly upon commercial grounds.\nDuring the last one hundred years of Spanish supremacy, the greatest\ndanger to their power was the presence of the Chinese. Efforts to\nexclude them were never effective or long enduring, and yet it was felt\nthat the men who came as labourers and traders were the advance guard of\nan innumerable host. In business the Malay has never been the equal of\nthe shrewd Chinaman, and although the latter might be converted and take\na Spanish name, yet it was always gravely suspected that a search would\nfind joss sticks smoldering in front of the tutelary deity of commerce\nhidden behind the image of the Virgin in his chapel.\n\nSo the Chinaman, like the Jew in medieval Europe, carried on his trade\nin constant danger of robbery and murder. This antipathy did not,\nhowever, extend to Filipina women, many of whom married the foreigners.\nAmong the leaders in the Filipino insurrection against the United\nStates, Aguinaldo, two of his cabinet, nine of his generals, and many of\nhis more important financial agents were of Chinese descent.\n\nIn 1762 the English swooped down upon Manila, but they held the capital\nonly two years, for, by the Treaty of Paris, the lands they had taken\nwere returned to Spain. It is said the English conquest, brief as it\nwas, brought good results to the Islands.\n\nBefore going on to the struggle against the friars, I wish to quote\nfrom my father's letters describing his experiences in the Philippines\ntwenty years before American occupation.\n\n\n \"At Sea, December 2, 1878.\n\n\"Yesterday I left Manila, where I have been since the 6th of last\nmonth.... Our first days there were spent in firing salutes and\nexchanging visits, and going through all the forms which are customary\nwhen a government vessel comes into a foreign port. Admiral Patterson\nsent me here to settle a stabbing affray on board the American barque\n_Masonic_, and that took up my attention at first. In the evenings I\nwent to the opera, and visited the sights of the city. On account of\nearthquakes, all the buildings are but one story high. The customs,\nfashions, etc., are Spanish. Every one was polite and I found it very\npleasant; but, as you might expect, after a little while I grew\nrestless. I heard that there was some beautiful scenery in the interior,\nand I resolved to go on an investigating trip and see it. Our\nvice-consul, Mr. Yongs, and another gentleman went with me.\n\n\"From Manila we went in a boat up a short river, which had its rise in a\nlarge lake, about twenty-five miles long, that we crossed in a steamer.\nI think I never saw such quantities of two things as were on that\nlake--namely, ducks and mosquitoes.\n\n\"From the lake we continued our journey in two-horse vehicles, like the\n_volantes_ of Havana, and in these we went from village to village, on\nour way to the mountains. We were very well treated. The Spanish\nauthorities at Manila provided us with whatever we required. The\nvillages were clusters of thatched huts around a church, and the\nreligion seemed to be a curious mixture of Roman Catholic Christianity\nand pagan superstition, as I concluded from the style of the pictures\nwith which the churches were adorned. These were chiefly representations\nof hell and its torments. Devils, with the traditional tails and horns,\nand armed with pitchforks, were turning over sinners in lakes of burning\nbrimstone....\n\n\"We found the natives very musical; they sang and played on a variety of\ninstruments, and they were rather handsome. The women had, without\nexception, the longest and most luxuriant hair I ever saw in all my\ntravels. You know it is a rare thing among us for a woman to have hair\nthat sweeps the ground, but here the exception is the other way; nearly\nevery woman I saw had hair between five and six feet in length.\n\n\"I was told that back among the mountains there existed tribes whom the\nSpaniards have never been able to conquer, and no one dares to venture\namong them, not even the priests. Our road was constantly ascending, and\nas we advanced toward the interior the scenery became beautiful. Peaks\nof mountains rose all about us; plains and valleys stretched out,\ncovered with tropical vegetation; picturesque villages, clustering\naround their churches, were visible here and there; and in the distance\nwere glimpses of the sea, sparkling and bright in the sun.\n\n\"I was told of a wonderful ravine among the mountains that was worth\nseeing and I decided to visit it, especially as it was a favourable\ntime; the river, by which it had to be approached, was then high, and\nits fifteen cascades, which usually had to be climbed past, dragging the\ncanoe, were reduced to four. I took three natives with me, and we\nascended successfully. I have called it a ravine, but a gorge would be a\nbetter term, for it is worn directly through the mountain by a large\nriver, and the rock rises up on each side, as sheer and straight as if\ncut by machinery.\n\n\"After I had ascended a certain distance, I stopped for a time to\nexamine all the wild magnificence about me. The rocky wall on each side\nwas so high that when I looked up I could see the stars shining in that\nbright noonday, as if it were night. Huge birds came flapping up the\ngorge far above my head; and yet they were far below the top of the\nmountain of rock. I do not know how many feet it rose, but I never saw\nany precipice where the impression of height was so effectually\ngiven--it seemed immense.\n\n\"Beneath us was the deep, broad stream, looking very dark in the\ntwilight that such a shadow made, and I could not help feeling\nawestruck. But the opening of the gorge framed as smiling and cheerful a\nlandscape as could possibly be devised, to contrast with the inner\ngloom. It was a wide, varied and splendid view of the country beyond,\nsloping to the distant sea, and all of it as aglow with light and colour\nas sea and land could be, beneath a tropic sun.\n\n\"Descending the river on our way out, I had a characteristic adventure,\nwhich will make me satisfied for a time. We had passed two of the rapids\nin safety, but as we approached the third, the canoe struck on a rock or\nsomething in the current, bow on, and swinging round, half filled with\nwater. The natives in the end of the canoe nearest the rock sprang out\nand clung to the vines which hung over its sides, but the other man and\nI went over the fall in the half-swamped canoe, and were wholly at the\nmercy of the stream, with an unusually good prospect of getting a good\ndeal more of it.\n\n\"The fall once passed through, the current drove us toward the shore, if\nthat is what you would call a precipice of rock, running straight down\nfar below the surface of the water. I succeeded in grasping the vines\nand pulling the canoe after me by my feet. The water was quite close by\nthe rock, and the other two men, crawling down to us, hung on with me,\nand bailed out the boat till it was safely afloat, and then we went down\nthe rest of the way without accident.\"\n\n\nBefore the middle of the last century, life in the Philippines must have\nbeen, for Spaniards and natives alike, one long period of siesta. The\nsound of the wars and the passing of governments and kings in Europe\nmust have seemed to these loiterers in a summer garden like the drone of\ndistant bees. After that period conditions changed rapidly. In 1852, the\nJesuits returned to the Philippines; in 1868, the reactionary Queen\nIsabella II fled from Spain, because of the rise of republicanism; in\n1869, the Suez Canal was opened. All these events had their influence,\nbut the return of the Jesuits was of dominating importance.\n\nThroughout the nineteenth century the sole idea of the Tagals was to get\nrid of the friars, and for several reasons, which I will explain as\nbriefly as possible. The Roman Catholic clergy are divided into regular\nand secular. Members of the secular clergy are subordinate to the\nbishops and archbishops, through whom the decrees of the Holy See are\npromulgated. The regular clergy, monks and friars, are subordinate to\nprovincials elected for comparatively short terms of office by members\nof their own order. The Jesuits form a group by themselves but belong\nrather to the regular than the secular.\n\nOver three hundred years after the conversion of the Filipinos, the\nSpanish monks and friars considered it still unsafe to admit natives\ninto the hierarchy of the Catholic Church. _The secular clergy were\nmostly natives, the regular clergy were Spaniards._ Naturally this\ncondition of affairs in time produced friction.\n\nTo understand the case in regard to the Jesuits, it is necessary to go\nback nearly a century. In 1767, the King of Spain issued a decree\nexpelling the Jesuits from his possessions. Their property was\nconfiscated, their schools were closed, and they were treated as enemies\nof the state. They had been among the earliest missionaries in the\nPhilippines, and were probably the wealthiest and most influential of\nall the clergy there. Their departure left no priests for the richest\nparishes in the provinces of Cavite and Manila, which had been their\nsphere of influence. The question at once arose as to who would succeed\nthem, and as it happened, the Archbishop of Manila who had to answer it\nwas a member of the secular clergy, a Spanish priest to be sure, but of\nliberal tendencies. Consequently, he filled the parishes with native\npriests, who continued to occupy them until the return of the Jesuits.\n\nNow the parish priest was the most influential man in the community. As\nnative priests used this influence to build up the prestige of the\nseculars, the ecclesiastical feuds which arose became embittered by\nracial antagonism.\n\nWhen a royal order was received permitting the return of the Jesuits it\nbecame at once necessary to find places for them in the ecclesiastical\ngovernment. Spain decided that the parishes of Cavite and Manila should\nbe henceforth filled by members of the order of Recollets, who were to\ntransfer their missions in Mindanao to the Jesuits. The Archbishop\nprotested against this increase in the power of the regular clergy, and\nthe Governor General assembled his council to act upon the protest. All\nthe members of the council who were born in Spain voted against the\nArchbishop. All those born in the Philippines voted for him. The\nregulars gained another victory over the seculars; the native was\npublicly informed that he was not fit to administer the parishes of his\nown people, and he saw himself definitely assigned to the position of\nlay brother or of curate. Whatever threads of attachment there had been\nbetween the opposing factions broke on the day of that decision, and\nevery native priest from that moment became a center of disaffection and\nof the propaganda of hatred of the friars. This was perhaps the real\nbeginning of the movement which continued, now secretly, now openly,\nuntil it broke out in actual revolt in 1872. The Spaniards put down this\nuprising of the Tagalogs with such cruelty that they feared a later\nretaliation, and sought help from the friars. This the friars gave them,\nin return for added wealth and power, which was granted, of course, at\nthe expense of the vanquished natives.\n\nWorcester writes in one of his earlier books, \"During the years 1890-93,\nwhile traveling in the archipelago, I everywhere heard the mutterings\nthat go before a storm. It was the old story: compulsory military\nservice; taxes too heavy to be borne, and imprisonment or deportation\nwith confiscation of property for those who could not pay them; no\njustice except for those who could afford to buy it; cruel extortion by\nthe friars in the more secluded districts; wives and daughters ruined;\nthe marriage ceremony too costly a luxury for the poor; the dead refused\nburial without payment of a substantial sum in advance; no opportunity\nfor education; little encouragement for industry and economy, since to\nacquire wealth meant to become a target for officials and friars alike;\nthese and a hundred other wrongs had goaded the natives and half-castes\nuntil they were stung to desperation.\"\n\nThe dissensions in the Philippines which ended in the rebellion of\n1896-7 began with disagreements among the Spaniards themselves. A\nprogressive party arose before which the clerical or conservative party\nslowly but steadily lost ground, and the legislation of modern Spain was\nby degrees introduced into the Islands. The country was not able to\nendure the taxation which would have been necessary to raise the\nrevenues to carry out this legislation. Hence laws which were passed\nagainst the advice of the Spanish clergy in the Philippines were left\nlargely in their hands for execution, not because they were loved or\ntrusted, but because they were the only Spanish functionaries who knew\nthe language and the people and whose residence in the Islands was a\npermanent one. If the friars had used their power wisely and\nunselfishly, there would have been no trouble, but they used it too\noften simply to keep the people down and extort money, for which they\ngave little return.\n\nBy degrees the mestizos took sides. The Chinese mestizos soon grew\nrestive under this priestly government, and aided the progressive\nSpanish party in Manila. As time passed they had it borne in upon them\nthat revolution might pay.\n\nThe insurrection of 1896-7 was planned and carried out under the\nauspices of a society local to the Philippines, called the \"Katipunan,\"\nthe full title of which may be translated as \"Supreme Select Association\nof the Sons of the People.\" According to Spanish writers on the subject,\nit was the outgrowth of a series of associations of Freemasons formed\nwith the expressed purpose of securing reforms in the government of the\nPhilippines, but whose unexpressed and ultimate object was to obtain\nthe independence of the archipelago. As if to accomplish this purpose,\na systematic attack was made on the monastic orders in the Philippines,\nto undermine their prestige and to destroy their influence upon the\ngreat mass of the population. The honorary president of the Katipunan\nwas Jos\u00e9 Rizal, whose name was used, without his permission, to attract\nthe masses to the movement.\n\nRizal was born in 1861 not far from Manila. He came of intelligent\nstock. After his early training at the Jesuit school in Manila and the\nDominican university, Rizal went to Spain, where he took high honors at\nthe University of Madrid in medicine and philosophy. Post-graduate work\nin France and Germany followed.\n\nHe was an ardent patriot, and in order to awaken his countrymen to the\nneed of reform, although he was a Roman Catholic, he published while in\nGermany his book called \"Noli Me Tangere,\"--Touch Me Not--which dealt\nwith the immoral life of the friars. An English translation has been\nissued with the title, \"The Social Cancer.\" The circulation of the book\nin the Islands was forbidden, but it was read by most of the educated\nFilipinos. In reading it, one is again and again struck by the author's\nclear comprehension of the needs and the difficulties of the Filipinos,\nand the calm, unprejudiced way in which their problems are discussed.\n\n[Illustration: JOSE RIZAL.]\n\nIn 1891, Rizal began the practice of medicine in Hongkong. Meanwhile,\nthe Spanish authorities, in their desire to get him into their power,\nworked upon his feelings by persecuting his mother. The trick was\nsuccessful, and he returned to Manila, where he was soon arrested, and\nbanished to the island of Mindanao.\n\nThe most powerful leader of the insurrection was Andres Bonifacio, a\npassionate and courageous man of little education. He sent an agent to\nDr. Rizal to aid him in escaping from his place of exile and to request\nhim to lead the Katipunan in open revolt. Rizal refused, believing that\nthe Filipinos were not yet ready for independence. Bonifacio resolved to\nproceed without him.\n\nBonifacio assured his audience that when he gave the signal the native\ntroops would join them. It was of great importance to the success of his\nplan that the army, as in 1872, was engaged in operations against the\nMoros. There were available in Manila only some three hundred Spanish\nartillery, detachments amounting to four hundred men, including seamen,\nand two thousand native soldiers. The plot was discovered, but Bonifacio\nescaped from Manila, and sent out orders for an uprising in that part\nof Luzon which had been organized by the Katipunan. Manila was attacked,\nbut the rebels were repulsed. Martial law was proclaimed in eight\nprovinces of Luzon, followed by wholesale executions. Many of those\narrested on suspicion \"were confined in Fort Santiago, one batch being\ncrowded into a dungeon for which the only ventilation was a grated\nopening at the top, and one night the sergeant of the guard carelessly\nspread his sleeping-mat over this, so the next morning some fifty-five\nasphyxiated corpses were hauled away.\"\n\nJust before the outbreak, Rizal received permission to join the army in\nCuba as surgeon, but on the way there was arrested and brought back to\nManila. His fate was now sealed. The trial by court-martial was a farce.\nOn a December day in 1896 he was led to execution.\n\nRizal was undoubtedly the noblest and most unselfish of the Filipino\nleaders, and his execution was not only a crime but a blunder on the\npart of the Spanish authorities. From his prison he issued an address to\nthe Filipinos remarkable for its moderation and its condemnation of the\n\"savage rebellion,\" stating that the education of the people must\nprecede any truly beneficial reforms, and urging them to go back to\ntheir homes. The Spanish officials deemed this not sufficiently\n\"patriotic\" to be published, and sentenced its author to the death of a\ntraitor by shooting in the back. To-day he is the national hero of the\nFilipinos.\n\n[Illustration: FORT SANTIAGO.]\n\nThe seacoast towns were under the leadership of Emilio Aguinaldo, a\nyoung radical, who was already a recognized leader among the local\ndisaffected. The Spaniards had not expected this outbreak in Cavite.\nAguinaldo had personally assured the governor of the province of his\ndevotion to Spain, but when fighting began isolated Spanish officers\nwere killed and their families carried into captivity. The difficulties,\nof the Spaniards were increased by the fact that the defense of Manila\nand Cavite until reinforcements arrived, would be largely in the hands\nof native troops, among whom the Katipunan was known to have been at\nwork. But the troops of the old native regiments--the men who for years\nhad followed Spanish officers--were on the whole faithful, and it was\nlargely due to them that Manila and Cavite were held.\n\nThe leaders in the insurrection were of that class who called themselves\n_ilustrados_, enlightened, a class whose blood is, in almost every case,\npartly Spanish or partly Chinese. The supremacy of the friars was\npassing, and men of this class intended to be the heirs to their\ndomain. The idea of forming a republic and even of adopting the titles\nappropriate to a republic to designate the functionaries of a Malay\ndespotism was an afterthought.\n\nReinforcements arrived from Spain, and by June 10, 1897, the\ninsurrection was broken, and Aguinaldo with his remaining adherents had\ntaken refuge at Biacnabato, some sixty miles from Manila. He was now\nwithout a rival, for Bonifacio had dared to attempt his life, had been\nbrought before a court-martial, had been condemned to death and had\ndisappeared.\n\nAguinaldo, who now called himself not only Generalissimo of the Army of\nLiberation but President of the Revolutionary Government, had adopted\nguerilla warfare, and the Spanish commands were forced to follow an\nenemy who was never dangerous to large bodies, but who always was to\nsmall ones--an enemy who, wearing no uniform, upon the approach of a\nlarge body became peaceful labourers in the fields along the road, but\nwere ready to pick up their rifles or bolos and use them against a small\nparty or a straggler. Still, whatever they had fought for at first, the\ninsurgent leaders were now fighting for their own safety.\n\nThe governor general sought in various ways to gain the support of the\ncountry. He called for Filipino volunteers, and, curiously enough, they\nresponded with enthusiasm. The rapidity with which they were recruited\nwas probably largely due to the activity of the friars. This added to\nthe hatred of them felt by the class of natives represented by\nAguinaldo.\n\nBetween June and December, 1897, the time was spent in an obscure\nbargaining, the outcome of which was the so-called Treaty of Biacnabato,\nwhich Primo de Rivera--the governor general--has stated was merely a\npromise to pay a money bribe to the insurgents if they would cease a\ncombat in which they had lost hope of success but which they could still\nprolong to the detriment of the resources and the prestige of Spain.\n\nThe result of the bargainings was that Spain agreed to pay eight hundred\nthousand Mexican dollars for the surrender of Aguinaldo and his\nprincipal leaders and the arms and ammunition in their possession. An\namnesty was proclaimed. Aguinaldo and his leaders were sent to Hongkong\nunder escort, where they declared themselves loyal Spanish subjects.\nPrimo de Rivera returned to Spain. As he received in return for the\nmoney only about two hundred rifles and a little ammunition, it is not\nprobable that he made any of the promises of changes in the government\nof the archipelago which the Filipinos have insistently stated since\nthen were the real objects of the agreement.\n\nWhatever may have been the true motives which actuated the Spanish\ngovernor general in adopting this method of terminating a successful\ncampaign, he succeeded in purchasing only an armistice and not a peace.\nOn January 23, 1898, a Te Deum was sung in the cathedral of Manila to\nmark the re\u00ebstablishment of peace in the archipelago.\n\nThe insurgent leaders had been bought off and their followers had\nsurrendered their arms.\n\nAs Spanish dominion in the Philippines was now about to close, let us\nstop a moment to inquire what it had brought to the Islands. It may have\nbeen hard and utterly unprogressive, but it turned the tribes of Luzon\nand the Visayas from tribal feuds and slave-raiding expeditions to\nagriculture.\n\nTo accomplish these results required untiring energy and a high\nenthusiasm among the missionaries. They had lived among savages,\nspeaking their tongue, until they had almost forgotten their own. Spain\nhad ceased to be everything to them; their order was their country.\nSpanish officials came and went, but the ministers of the Church\nremained, and as they grew to be the interpreters of the wants of the\npeople, in many cases their protectors against spoliation, power fell\ninto their hands. It is rather interesting to learn that in 1619, in the\nreign of Philip III, it was proposed to abandon the Philippines on\naccount of their useless expense to Spain, but a delegation of friars\nfrom the Islands implored him not to abandon the twenty thousand\nChristians they had converted, and the order was countermanded.\n\nSpanish dominion left the people Christians, whereas, if the Islands had\nnot been occupied by Spain, their people would in all probability to-day\nbe Mohammedan. The point of view of the Spanish friars may not be ours,\nbut when their efforts are judged by the good rather than the evil\nresults, it can still be said that Spain gave Christianity and a long\nterm of peace to the Philippine archipelago. The Filipinos are the only\nChristian Asiatics.\n\nBut Philippine history was to take an unexpected turn. The\nSpanish-American war broke out, and a new factor appeared upon the scene\nin the shape of Commodore Dewey and his fleet. We all know the story of\nthe battle of Manila Bay, but we may just recall it briefly.\n\nIt was the night of April 30, 1898, that the American Asiatic squadron,\nwhich had received its orders at Hongkong, arrived off the Philippines.\nThey took a look first into Subig Bay, but seeing no enemy, they made\ntheir way into Manila Bay by the Boca Grande entrance. There were\nrumours of mines in the channel and big guns in the forts, but Dewey\ntook the chance, and the fleet steamed in at night. The ships formed two\ncolumns, the fighting ships all in one line, and the auxiliary vessels\nabout twelve hundred yards behind. They moved at the rate of their\nslowest vessel.\n\nBlack thunder clouds at times obscured even the crescent moon that\npartially lighted their course, but occasional lightning flashes gave\nthe bold Americans a glimpse of frowning Corregidor and the sentinel\nrock of El Fraile. The ships were dark except for one white light at the\nstern of each as a guide to the vessel next in line. As the _Olympia_\nturned toward El Fraile her light was seen by a Spanish sentry. A sheet\nof flame from the smokestack of the _McCulloch_, a revenue cutter\nattached to the fleet, also betrayed its presence to the enemy at the\nsame moment. El Fraile and a battery on the south shore of the bay at\nonce opened fire, which was returned by the ships to such good purpose\nthat the battery was silenced in three minutes. Slowly, steadily,\nDewey's ships steamed on, and at dawn discovered the gray Spanish\nvessels lying in front of the naval arsenal at Cavite, over on the\ndistant shore to the right. Admiral Montojo's flagship, the _Reina\nCristina_, and the _Castilla_, and a number of smaller vessels, formed a\ncurved line of battle, which was protected in a measure by the shore\nbatteries. The Spaniards had one more ship than the Americans, but the\nlatter had bigger guns.\n\nSilently the American squadron advanced across the bay, with the Stars\nand Stripes flying from every ship. At quarter past five on the morning\nof May 1st, the Spanish ships fired their first shots. When less than\nsix thousand yards from their line, Dewey gave the famous order to\nCaptain Gridley, in command of the _Olympia_: \"You may fire when you're\nready, Gridley.\"\n\nTwo hours later, the _Reina Cristina_ had been burned, the _Castilla_\nwas on fire, and all but one of the other Spanish vessels were abandoned\nand sunk. Dewey gave his men time for breakfast and a little rest, then\nshelled and silenced the batteries at Cavite. Soon after noon the\nSpaniards surrendered, having lost 381 men and ten war vessels. Seven\nAmericans were slightly wounded, but none were killed. So ended this\nfamous battle.\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER III\n\nINSURRECTION\n\n\nAdmiral Dewey took a great liking to General Anderson, \"Fighting Tom\"\n(L.'s cousin), the first military officer to command the American forces\nin the Philippines. On one occasion the Admiral fired a salute well\nafter sundown (contrary to naval regulations) to compliment him on his\npromotion to the rank of major general, and scared the wits out of some\nof the good people ashore. General Anderson has given me a few notes\nabout his experiences at that time, which are of special interest.\n\n\"When in the latter part of April, 1898, I received an order relieving\nme from duty in Alaska and ordering me to the Philippines, I was engaged\nin rescuing a lot of people who had been buried by an avalanche in the\nChilcoot Pass. I took my regiment at once to San Francisco, and there\nreceived an order placing me in command of the first military expedition\nto the Philippines. This was the first American army that ever crossed\nan ocean. We were given only two days for preparation. We were not given\na wagon, cart, ambulance, or a single army mule, nor boats with which to\nland our men. I received fifty thousand dollars in silver and was\nordered to render what assistance I could. I had never heard of\nAguinaldo at that time, and all I knew of the Philippines was that they\nwere famous for hemp, earthquakes, tropical diseases and rebellion.\n\n\"We stopped at Honolulu on the way over, although the Hawaiian Islands\nhad not been annexed. The Kanakas received us with enthusiasm and\nassured us that the place was a paradise before the coming of the\nmissionaries and mosquitoes. From there we went to Guam, where we found\nnude natives singing 'Lucy Long' and 'Old Dan Tucker,' songs they had\nlearned from American sailors.\n\n\"When we reached Cavite the last day of June, Admiral Dewey asked me to\ngo ashore and call on Aguinaldo, who, he assured me, was a native chief\nof great influence. Our call was to have been entirely informal, but\nwhen we approached the house of the Dictator we found a barefooted band\nin full blare, the bass-drummer after the rule of the country being the\nleader. The stairway leading to Aguinaldo's apartment was lined on\neither side by a strange assortment of Filipino warriors. The Chief\nhimself was a small man in a very long-tailed frock coat, and in his\nhand he held a collapsible opera hat. I saw him many times afterward and\nalways thus provided. He asked me at once if I could recognize his\nassumption. This I could not do, so when a few days later I invited him\nto attend our first Fourth of July he declined. He further showed his\ndispleasure by failing to be present at the first dinner to which we\nAmerican officers were invited. There for the first time we met Filipina\nladies. They were bare as to their shoulders, yet in some mysterious way\ntheir dresses remained well in place. In dancing there was a continuous\nshuffling on the floor because their slippers only half covered their\nlight fantastics, rendering them more agile than graceful.\n\n\"In returning from visiting the Tagalog Chief we saw a headless statue\nof Columbus. I asked a native to explain how Christopher had lost his\nhead. The reply was that they beheaded him because they did not wish to\nbe discovered.\n\n\"Soon after I got to Cavite, I was invited with the officers of my staff\nto attend a dinner given in my honour. At the symposium I was asked\nto state the principles upon which the American government was founded.\nI answered, 'The consent of the governed, and majority rule.'\nBuencamino, the toastmaster, replied, 'We will baptize ourselves to that\nsentiment,' upon which he emptied his champagne glass on his head. The\nothers likewise wasted their good wine.\n\n[Illustration: A GROUP OF FILIPINA LADIES.]\n\n\"When General Merritt arrived he first came ashore at a village behind\nthe line we had established where Aguinaldo was making his headquarters.\nRain was falling in torrents at the time, but Aguinaldo, who must have\nknown of the presence of the new Governor General, failed to ask him to\ntake shelter in his headquarters. Naturally General Merritt was\nindignant and directed that thereafter any necessary business should be\nconducted through me. This placed me in a very disagreeable position. At\nfirst I thought I could conciliate and use the Filipinos against the\nSpaniards, but General Merritt brought an order from President McKinley\ndirecting that we should only recognize the Filipinos as rebellious\nsubjects of Spain. Aguinaldo reproached me bitterly for my change of\nconduct toward him, but because of my orders I could not do otherwise,\nnor could I explain the cause.\n\n\"We soon drifted into open hostility. I found but one man who appeared\nto understand the situation, and he was the much hated Archbishop\nNozaleda. After we took Manila he invited me to come to see him. He\nremarked in the course of our conversation that when we took the city by\nstorm he expected to see our soldiers kill the men and children and\nviolate the women. But instead he praised us for having maintained\nperfect order. For reply I quoted the Latin, '_Parcere subjectis, et\ndebellare superbos._' Which prompted him to say in Spanish to a Jesuit\npriest, 'Why, these people seem to be civilized.' To which the Jesuit\nreplied, 'Yes, we have some colleges in their country.'\n\n\"The statement that we seemed to be civilized calls for an explanation.\nI found many Filipinos feared American rule might prove more severe on\nthem than the Spanish control. In a school book that I glanced at in a\nSpanish school was the enlightening statement that the Americans were a\ncruel people who had exterminated the entire Indian population of North\nAmerica.\"\n\nThe battle of Manila Bay was fought and won, as we well remember, on May\nDay. Through the kind offices of the British consul the Spanish admiral\ncame to an understanding with Dewey. Surgeons were sent ashore to\nassist in the care of the wounded Spaniards, and sailors to act as\npolice. The cable was cut, and the blockade was carried into effect at\nonce. The foreign population was allowed to leave for China. German\nmen-of-war kept arriving in the harbour, until there were five in all.\nIt was known that Germany sympathized with Spain, and only the timely\narrival of some friendly English ships, and the trenchant diplomacy of\nour admiral, prevented trouble.\n\nAll the rest of that month, and the next, and still the next, the fleet\nlay at anchor, threatening the city with its guns, but making no effort\nto take it. The people lived in constant fear of bombardment from the\nships which they could so plainly see from the Luneta on their evening\npromenades. But they could not escape, for Aguinaldo's forces lay\nencamped behind them in the suburbs. In fact, the refugees were seeking\nsafety within the walls of the city, instead of fleeing from it, for\nwhile they had no love for the Spaniards, and were fellow countrymen of\nthe rebel chieftain, they preferred to take their chances of bombardment\nrather than risk his method of \"peaceful occupation.\"\n\nOf course there was no co\u00f6peration between the Americans and the\nFilipinos, although both wanted the same thing and each played somewhat\ninto the other's hand. Admiral Dewey refused to give Aguinaldo any naval\naid, and the _insurrectos_ on at least two occasions found it profitable\nto betray our plans to the common enemy.\n\nThe delay in taking the city was caused by Dewey's shortage of troops.\nHe could have taken it at any time, but could not have occupied it. The\nSpanish commander made little attempt at defense. A formal attack on one\nof the forts satisfied the demands of honour. When the city surrendered,\non August 13th, the Americans were in the difficult position of guarding\nthirteen thousand Spanish soldiers, of keeping at bay some fourteen\nthousand plunder-mad Filipinos, and of policing a city of two hundred\nthousand people--all with some ten thousand men!\n\nThe way in which it was accomplished is in effective contrast with\nEuropean methods. When our troops broke the line of trenches encircling\nManila they pressed quickly forward through the residence district to\nthe old walled town, which housed the governmental departments of the\ncity. Here they halted in long lines, resting calmly on their arms until\nthe articles of capitulation were signed. It took but an hour or so to\narrange for the disposition of our troops among the various barracks and\nfor the removal of the disarmed Spanish garrison to the designated\nplaces of confinement. Then command was passed along by mounted officers\nfor the several regiments to proceed to their quarters for the night. In\ncolumns of four they marched off with the easy swing and unconcern of\ntroops on practice march. A thin cordon of sentinels appeared at easy\nhailing distance along the principal streets, and the task was\naccomplished.\n\nBy noon next day they had a stability as great as though they had been\nthere for years. Not a woman was molested, not a man insulted, and the\nchildren on the street were romping with added zest to show off before\ntheir new-found friends. The banks felt safe to open their vaults, and\nthe merchants found a healthily rising market. The ships blockaded and\nidling at anchor in the harbour discharged their cargoes, the customs\nduties being assessed according to the Spanish tariff by bright young\nvolunteers, aided by interpreters. The streets were cleaned of their\naccumulated filth, and the courts of law were opened. All this was done\nunder General Anderson's command, and it seems to me is much to his\ncredit.\n\nA daughter of General Anderson's, who was there at the time with her\nfather, writes: \"Days of intense anxiety followed the opening of\nhostilities. The Filipinos were pushed back more and more, but we feared\ntreachery within the city. We heard that they were going to poison our\nwater supply, that they were going to rise and bolo us all, that every\nservant had his secret instructions. Also, that Manila was to be burned.\nThere proved to be something in this, for twice fires were started and\ngained some headway, and we women were banished to the transports\nagain.\"\n\nAguinaldo had demanded at least joint occupation of the city, and his\nfull share of the loot as a reward for services rendered. We can imagine\nhis disgust at being told that Americans did not loot, and that they\nintended to hold the city themselves. If there had been no other reason\nfor refusing him, the conduct of his troops in the suburbs would have\nfurnished a sufficient one, for they were utterly beyond control,\nassaulting and plundering their own brother Filipinos and neutral\nforeigners, as well as Spaniards, and torturing their prisoners. But\nthis refusal, justifiable as it certainly was, marked the real beginning\nof the insurrection against American rule, though there was no\nimmediate outbreak.\n\nAguinaldo was a mestizo school teacher when, in 1896, he became leader\nof the insurrection against Spain. The money with which Spain hoped to\npurchase peace was to be paid in three instalments, the principal\ncondition being that the Filipino leaders should leave the Islands. This\nthey did, going to Hongkong, where the first instalment was promptly\ndeposited in a bank. The second instalment, to Aguinaldo's great\ndisgust, was paid over to Filipinos left in the Islands, and the last\none was not paid at all. This was just as well for him, because his\nfellow insurrectionists were already demanding of him an accounting for\nthe funds in Hongkong, and had him summoned to court for the purpose.\nThis proceeding he wisely avoided by leaving for Europe in disguise.\n\nHe got only as far as Singapore, however, for there--in April of '98--he\nheard of the probability of American interference in the Islands and\ninterviewed our consul. The go-between for this interview was an\nunscrupulous interpreter, whose intrigues were destined to have\nfar-reaching effects for us. It has been charged that both our consul at\nSingapore and the one at Hongkong committed this nation to a policy\nfavouring Philippine independence, but the whole question of American\npledges finally resolves itself into a choice between the word of an\nAmerican admiral and a Chinese mestizo.\n\nWhen Spain had failed to pay over to Aguinaldo the balance of the peace\nmoney, he had promptly gone to work to organize another revolution from\nthe safe harbourage of Hongkong. His flight to Singapore had interrupted\nthis, but now, with the Americans so conspicuously there to \"help,\" it\nwas a simple matter to put his plans in operation.\n\nA month after the battle of Manila Bay Aguinaldo proclaimed himself\n\"president\" (in reality military dictator) of the \"Filipino Republic.\"\nBut this republic existed only on paper. Dewey accurately states the\ncondition of affairs when he says, \"Our fleet had destroyed the only\ngovernment there was, and there was no other government; there was a\nreign of terror throughout the Philippines, looting, robbing,\nmurdering.\" A form of municipal election was held, but if a candidate\nnot favoured by the insurgents was elected, he was at once deposed. One\ncandidate won his election by threatening to kill any one who got the\noffice in his place. Persons \"contrary minded\" were not allowed to\nvote. These happenings hardly suggest a republican form of government,\nbut they are typical of conditions at that time.\n\n[Illustration: AGUINALDO'S PALACE AT MALOLOS.]\n\nNaturally the self-styled president was not recognized by the American\nofficials, and they were justified, as is shown by the fact that before\nthe year was up Aguinaldo himself had come to realize that he could not\nmaintain order among his people, and tried to resign from his office.\n\nMeanwhile his lack of recognition by the Americans, and his exclusion\nfrom the spoils of war, so far as Manila was concerned, showed him that\nhis only hope of achieving his ambitions lay in driving these\ninterlopers from the Islands. But for the time being, while awaiting a\npropitious moment for attack, he occupied himself and his men by\nconquering the Spaniards in the outlying provinces. Since there was no\nco\u00f6peration among the Spanish forces, he was quite successful. Having\nproclaimed the republic with himself at the head, he felt justified in\nmaintaining, with the aid of his booty, a truly regal state in his\npalace at Malolos, aping the forms and ceremonies of the Spanish\ngovernors in Manila.\n\nAs fast as Church property, or property belonging to Spaniards, fell\ninto his hands, it was confiscated and turned over to the State--if\nAguinaldo can be considered the State. His houses and those of his\ngenerals were furnished from Spanish possessions, all title deeds were\nsystematically destroyed or hidden, and administrators were appointed\nfor the property.\n\nAt the beginning of the new year (1899), he turned his attention to the\nAmericans, and Manila. Because our forces seemed reluctant to fight, the\nFilipinos, like the Mexicans to-day, believed that they must be cowards\nand afraid to meet them. A Mexican paper has recently told its readers\nwhat a simple matter it would be, if war were declared, for their troops\nto cross the border and crush such slight opposition as may be offered\nto the capture of Washington. So it is no wonder that the Filipinos felt\nconfident of success, especially after their victories over the\nSpaniards in the outlying regions.\n\nBy January, Admiral Dewey, General Anderson and General Merritt had left\nthe Philippine Islands and General Otis was in command. He announced\nthat the government of the United States would be extended over the\nislands of the archipelago. Next day Aguinaldo retorted with what was\nvirtually a declaration of war. From then on he and his advisers\nhastened their preparations for the conflict. Members of the native\nmilitia who were living in Manila under the protection of the American\ngarrison were warned to stand ready to receive the signal which should\nstart the sack and pillage of the city and the massacre of its\ninhabitants. By the end of January there were about thirty thousand\nFilipinos under arms fronting the American lines outside the city, all\nkeyed up for the moment when they should be let loose to drive the\nAmericans into the sea. This time the spoils of Manila should not be\nsnatched from them!\n\nThe signal for the advance was to be a conflagration in Manila. Ten\nthousand militiamen were to rise, set fire to the city, free the Spanish\nprisoners of war, arm them with arms stored in the arsenal, and attack\nthe Americans. They were to be promptly aided in this last detail by the\nthirty thousand Filipinos waiting outside, who, surrounding the city,\nwould drive back the fourteen thousand American soldiers upon their\nburning citadel and upon the two hundred thousand Filipinos, who would\nby this time have joined their countrymen. If everything had worked out\nas he had planned, Aguinaldo might very probably have entered the city.\n\nHe chose a night early in February, at a time when he knew the American\nreinforcements which had been ordered could not yet have arrived. Firing\nbegan about nine o'clock in the evening, near the San Juan bridge, and\ncontinued during the night. Meanwhile, the militia in the city tried to\nassemble, but the groups were promptly fired on and dispersed. In the\nmorning the ships of Dewey's fleet opened fire from the flanks of the\nAmerican line. A little later our troops sprang forward and swept their\nantagonists before their fierce attack. In this encounter the Filipinos\nlost about eight hundred, and the Americans two hundred and fifty.\n\nFor a week the insurgents were quite demoralized, and no wonder, for\nthis was not the way they had expected the \"cowardly\" Americans to act.\nBut when they saw that our men did not follow up their advantage by\npursuit, their courage revived and they began once more to believe those\nthings which they wished to believe. Our troops had to stay where they\nwere because they had not sufficient transportation to take them\nanywhere else, because the enemy within the city still needed their\nattention, and because their reinforcements had not arrived.\n\nWhen these came, General Otis divided his forces. General MacArthur\nbegan a movement from his right against the insurgents, who contested\nevery village and locality capable of defense, and burned every train\nbefore abandoning it to American hands. The insurgent capital, Malolos,\nwas occupied. In April, General Lawton took Santa Cruz. The American\ncasualties during these operations were about ten thousand officers and\nmen, but the sick report listed fifteen per cent of the expedition,\nmostly from heat prostration.\n\n[Illustration: SAN JUAN BRIDGE.]\n\nGeneral Lawton, who went out early in 1899, and was killed in December\nof the same year at San Mateo, is believed to have been perhaps the most\nable of our commanders.\n\nUniformly the Filipinos lost, but when their courage waned their\nofficers would announce that they had won a big victory somewhere else.\nIn one day, they reported, we had lost twenty-eight thousand men, in a\nregion where in the entire month we had lost but fifty-six. On another\noccasion they announced that two thousand colonels had been killed. They\nmust have thought our troops were all from Kentucky.\n\nAll summer and into the fall this more or less formal and regular\nwarfare continued. But by that time Aguinaldo had decided that while a\nconcentrated field army might appear more impressive to foreigners and\nbe better for advertising purposes, it was not effective for his\npurpose, and some change must be made. The discontent among the\nconservative men who still had anything to lose was increasing, while\nthe labourers in the fields, the fishermen, and the great masses of the\npeople were growing weary of the war and the exactions of the commanders\nof their troops. The spell which Aguinaldo had cast over Luzon was\nalmost broken. The war was nearly over, it seemed--in a civilized\ncountry it would have been over.\n\nTo the Americans it appeared that the insurrection had been destroyed,\nand that all they now had to do was to sweep up the remnants of the\ninsurgent forces by a system of police administration not likely to be\neither difficult or dangerous. In November, MacArthur had his force\nready to strike anything within reach, but there seemed to be nothing\nwithin reach to strike. He soon came to the conclusion that there was no\norganized resistance left, that the insurgent army had broken into\nfragments which would soon become banditti. The disbandment of the\ninsurgent field forces, which the American authorities took to mean the\ncoming of a general submission to our rule, was followed by a long\nperiod of inactivity. This, of course, strengthened the impression, but\nthe time was being used by the Filipinos to prepare for a new method\nof warfare and to organize for resistance by means of a general banding\nof the people together in support of the guerillas in the field.\n\n[Illustration: GENERAL LAWTON.]\n\nTo obtain this necessary co\u00f6peration the leaders announced the\ninflexible principle that every native residing within the limits of the\narchipelago owed active individual allegiance to the insurgent cause.\nThis was enforced by severe penalties, including burial alive, which\nwere systematically exacted. There was little resistance on the part of\nthe victims, who accepted the new policy with a curious combination of\nloyalty, apathy, ignorance and timidity.\n\nIn this way there arose a strange system of dual government, in many\ncases the town officials openly serving the Americans while they were\nsecretly aiding the insurrection, and with apparently equal solicitude\nfor both. Each town was the base for the neighbouring guerillas, and\nwhen a band was too hard pressed it would dissolve and take refuge in\nits own community. This was easy enough to accomplish, with the aid of\nthe people, for it took very little to transform a Filipino soldier into\na good imitation of a peaceful native.\n\nSeveral months before the formal declaration of guerilla warfare in\nNovember of 1899, the Filipino commanders had adopted a policy of\noccupying a succession of strong defensive positions and forcing our\narmy to a never ending repetition of tactical deployments. This they did\nwith such skill that they were for a time successful. The native force\nwould hover within easy distance of the American camps, but would avoid\nclose conflict and temporarily disband. This would not be regarded by\nthem as a calamity, but simply as a change from one form of action to\nanother, and even a positive advantage.\n\nBy February of 1900, General Bates had succeeded in scattering the\nlarger bodies in the south of Luzon, and while some of the Filipino\nleaders and their followers abandoned the cause, which they saw was\nhopeless, others returned to the life of bandits, which in many cases\nhad probably been their profession before the war. When their guns were\ngone they took up the knife and the torch. They did not cease to call\nthemselves soldiers of the republic, but they were not in reality.\n\nBy September General MacArthur, who had succeeded General Otis in\ncommand of the American forces in the Islands, realized that the\nopposition to American control came from the towns, and that the\nguerilla bands could not exist without their support. At first he\nthought that on account of the efficiency of his troops, the natives\nwould be actuated both by conviction and self-interest to support him.\nBut four months later he saw that further pressure was needed to secure\nthis. So he ordered that all persons suspected of contraband traffic\nwith insurgent organizations should be arrested and sent to Manila. In\nJanuary, 1901, he ordered the deportation to Guam of twenty-six Filipino\nleaders, sympathizers, and agents, who were to remain there until peace\nhad been formally declared. Two months later, Aguinaldo was captured by\nthe dare-devil Funston of \"the Suicide Squad.\"\n\nThe effect of this measure was to alarm the leaders, of course, who now\nrealized that they could be held responsible for their acts. Orders were\nalso issued that all men who surrendered should be disarmed but released\nat once, while those captured in the field or arrested in the towns\nshould be held in custody till the end of the war. A letter was found,\nwritten by a bandit leader, in March, saying that he was ordered to\n\"proceed more rapidly\" with his operations, \"as Bryan ordered Emilio\n(Aguinaldo) to keep the war going vigorously until April.\" However true\nthat may have been, it is certain that the encouragement which the\ninsurgents received from the country they were fighting much prolonged\nhostilities and caused the loss of many lives on both sides.\n\nIt is hard to realize at this distance the lengths to which the\nanti-imperialists went, or were willing to go, in those days. Governor\nPack told me of an experience he had with one of them--a New Englander\nof good family and American antecedents. Pack was on his way out to the\nIslands at the time, and on arriving at Hongkong received the tidings of\nMcKinley's assassination. He was surprised to see this man, a\nfellow-passenger, rush up to a Filipino with the news and shake his\nhand, congratulating him on what had happened. The Governor, then a\nyoung civilian, could not forget the shocking incident and later, when\nthey shared the same stateroom on the small boat for Manila, he\ndiscovered papers which proved that his companion intended to furnish\naid and encouragement to any natives who wished to fight against\nAmerican \"tyranny.\" This discovery gave Pack his appointment as one of\nthe seven lieutenant governors of the hill tribes. But the other man was\npunished only by being refused entrance to the Islands. It was the\nstupid and foolish fashion in America then--as indeed it still is--to\ncall this particular form of treason Idealism, and be lenient with it.\n\nOur soldiers found it difficult to take seriously the bands of half\nnaked men, who, they knew, had been pillaging the villages of their own\nrace. It was true that these bands were difficult to pursue and capture,\nbut an army which fought only from ambush, whose detachments fell only\nupon stragglers and carefully avoided the main body of its enemy, and\nwhich showed no regard for the sacredness of a flag of truce, could not\ninspire much respect. Plunder appeared to be the sole excuse for its\nexistence, and the pompous titles assumed by its commanders were amusing\nfor the leaders of robbers. The Americans followed the retreating\nbandits without hatred and without fear. But they became weary of the\neternal pursuit, and felt a growing irritation.\n\nThe Filipinos, however, felt very differently about their soldiers, and\nit is only fair to give their side too, especially as it may throw some\nlight on the Mexican situation. Even the richest and most highly\neducated men found nothing to laugh at in these poor bands which were\nafter all composed of their own people fighting and suffering for a\ncause which they could at least understand, whether or not they\nsympathized with it. They did not regard the pillaging, tortures, and\nmurders to which the Filipinos subjected their own people as we did.\nThey called the robbery \"collecting contributions for the support of the\nwar.\" As for the murders--in the Orient to kill is an immemorial right\nof the rulers of men. What if they did fight disguised as peaceful\ncountry folk? They were a weak people fighting against a strong. They\nwere naked and they were hungry, and they were fighting for a cause.\nTheir arms were often of little use, and they made powder out of match\nheads and cartridge shells out of the zinc roofs of parish buildings,\nand even then they had only ammunition enough to fire a few volleys and\nthen run. But men so armed had forced the United States to send out\nnearly seventy thousand well equipped soldiers to subdue them. To the\nnative Filipino, as perhaps to the Mexican to-day, the ragged and half\nsavage figures of the guerillas stood for their vision of a united race.\n\nBut it was natural that our troops could not understand this, and that\nthey should gradually become embittered against their antagonists. The\nofficers, by the necessary division of our forces, found themselves\nconfronted with conditions utterly alien to their experience. They had\nto live in native houses or churches, in the midst of four or five\nthousand people whose language they did not speak, and whose thoughts\nwere not their thoughts. Most of them were young men. They came from all\nover the United States, and were neither monsters nor saints, but good\nexamples of their time and country.\n\nWhen these officers learned that the dignified Asiatics who called upon\nthem daily, who drank with them, who talked with them, and who held\noffices under our government, were also spies of the guerilla leaders,\nsecretly aiding those who were anxious to win the price set on their\nheads, they were hardly pleased. When they found that every movement of\nthe guerillas was reported to them just too late to be of any use, while\nevery movement of their own small forces was promptly made known to the\nenemy, and when they were present at the disinterment of the twisted\nbodies of the men who had been buried alive because they were loyal to\nus, they decided that stricter measures were necessary. This was a state\nof war. Within wide limits their will was law. Upon their judgment hung\nnot merely their lives and those of their men, but the honour of their\ncountry and their regiment. Perhaps in some cases they met cruelty with\ncruelty, but they at least tried to be honest and just. And the people\ncame to realize this, and also that they were not afraid, with the\nresult that whole communities transferred their allegiance from their\nown guerilla leaders to a single young American, not because he\nunderstood them or sympathized with them, but because he was a man whom\nthey could trust and respect.\n\nIt was July of 1902, four years after our taking of Manila, before the\nIslands could be officially declared pacified. Let us hope that the\nlessons which we learned then may not be forgotten in our dealings with\nMexico.[14]\n\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER IV\n\nFOLLOWING THE FLAG\n\n They taught Filipinos the right way to work,\n And they taught as if teaching were fun;\n They taught them to spell and to build themselves roads,\n And the best way to handle a gun.\n Were their salaries so big that the task was worth while?\n Did they save a centavo of pay?\n Have the average men an account with the bank?\n Never a cent--not they.\n\n So we haven't a job and we haven't a cent,\n And nobody cares a damn;\n But we've done our work and we've done it well,\n To the glory of Uncle Sam,\n And we've seen a lot, and we've lived a lot\n In these islands over the sea--\n Would we change with our brothers grown rich at home?\n Praise be to God--not we.\n\n _From \"The Swan Song,\" in the Manila Bulletin._\n\n\nIt is, strangely enough, to the influence of that arch anti-imperialist,\nWilliam Jennings Bryan, that we owe the ratification of the Treaty of\nParis, which not only ended the war with Spain but expressly provided\nfor the purchase of the Philippine Islands. The Democrats were opposed\nto the treaty and were powerful enough in the Senate to have held it\nup, had not Bryan used his authority to secure the two-thirds vote\nneeded for its ratification. It is amusing to note that a year later,\nafter enabling us to acquire the islands, he used all his power to\nprevent our keeping them. He was at this time in need of a popular plank\nin his third presidential platform, and the sorrows of the Filipinos\nsuited his purpose admirably.\n\nSoon after the Treaty of Paris, and long before the end of the\ninsurrection, McKinley appointed a commission of experts to go out to\nthe Islands and report to him on conditions there. They found a country\nwhose civilization was, to put it hopefully, at a standstill. It was too\nbig a problem to be straightened out by a few ambitious Filipinos. The\nCommission returned to America convinced of the necessity of our\noccupation.\n\nCongress soon passed a special organic act for the organization of a\ncivil government in the Islands, to succeed the military rule then in\nforce. In 1900, President McKinley appointed the second Commission,\nheaded by Mr. Taft, which was instructed to assume control of the\nIslands, gradually relieving the army wherever conditions allowed of\ntheir doing so.\n\nThis Commission had five members, three of them lawyers (two of whom\nhad been on the bench), and two professors. Its functions were at first\nlegislative and judicial, but in 1901, when the president of the\nCommission, Mr. Taft, became Governor General of the Islands, the other\nmembers were given the portfolios of the different departments and\nexecutive power in the pacified parts of the Islands. Dean C. Worcester,\na member of the earlier Commission and already an authority on the\nPhilippines, became the first Minister of the Interior; Luke E. Wright,\nthe Vice Governor, had the Department of Commerce and Police; H. C. Ide,\nformer Chief Justice of Samoa, had charge of Finance and Justice, while\nProfessor Moses was put at the head of Public Instruction. Governor Taft\nbecame really the \"Father of the Philippines,\" for when he left the\nIslands in 1904 to become Secretary of War he had even higher authority\nover them than he had had as governor, while still later, as President\nof the United States, he was able to see that the same high standard of\nappointments was maintained.[15]\n\nMcKinley charged this Commission that their work was \"_not to subjugate,\nbut to emancipate_.\" We made many mistakes, for we were new to the\nbusiness and dealing with a strange people, but until very lately even\nthe selfishness which is supposed to be inherent in party politics has\nbeen absent in our dealings with this people, whom we considered our\nsacred charge. No one ever asked an American official in the Islands\nwhat his politics were. Even the governorship itself was out of the\nreach of the spoilsman. Of the five governors who were appointed by the\nRepublican administrations, only one besides the first governor belonged\nto the dominant party, and he was in office but a few months.\n\nSince the Taft Commission first organized, several changes have taken\nplace. Filipino members have been added, and it has acquired the\ncharacter of an upper house, rather than a legislature. The work of a\nlower house is done by the Assembly, made up of eighty-one members\nchosen by the people of the Christian tribes. They have no authority\nover the Moro and other non-Christian tribes, which are legislated for\nby the Commission directly. To-day the Filipinos control their\nmunicipal and county governments, but their finances are kept under\nsupervision.\n\nThe problems which the Commissioners had to solve were many and varied.\nTrade was at a standstill. During the last normal year under Spain the\nexports from the Islands had amounted to about sixteen million dollars.\nBy 1912 they had more than trebled. There was also a currency problem.\nCoins from everywhere--Mexico, China, America, India--were in common\ncirculation, with almost daily fluctuations in value. The Islands now\nhave their own money on a gold basis. Then, close on the heels of the\ninsurrection, came a famine. Locusts swept over the land and destroyed\nwhat little grain the war had left. The natives in some parts of the\narchipelago ate the locusts, however, and liked them, making the work of\nthe officials more difficult. Grain shipped from America decayed in the\nstorehouses before it could be distributed, and, as if that were not\nenough, carabaos died by the thousand from rinderpest.\n\nBut the most difficult of all was the problem of the friar lands.\nThousands of acres of valuable land had been acquired during Spanish\nrule by the different orders of monks, and held by them with great\nprofit. One of the chief causes of Aguinaldo's rebellion was the\nexactions of these wealthy churchmen, which galled a patient people into\nfinal revolt, and during the ascendancy of the insurgent government\nresulted in the confiscation of Church property and the flight of the\nfriars. These men took refuge in Manila, and petitioned the new\ngovernment for a settlement of their claims. Their legal rights were not\nto be disputed, but to return them to their property and protect them\nthere would have brought on us the increased enmity of a people whose\nfriendship we were trying to win. The friends of the friars were no\nfriends of the people. It was decided to have the Philippine Government\nbuy these lands from the Church, which was accordingly arranged. Even\nthis was not a popular solution, but seems to have been the best that\ncould be done under the circumstances. One-third of these lands are\nstill vacant.\n\nRoad building was one of the most baffling of the problems. The people\nhad no appreciation of the necessity for good roads, and would not pay\nfor them nor help keep them in repair when they were built. For years\nthe Commission toiled at the seemingly hopeless task, and it was not\nuntil Governor Forbes went out there from Boston that anything definite\nwas accomplished. His native city should be very proud of his\nbrilliantly successful administration, the proofs of which met us at\nevery turn during our stay in the archipelago, and convinced us of the\nfatal mistake it is to allow such a position as Governor of the\nPhilippines to become the prize of politicians. To the native mind his\nname became inseparably connected with roads. _Caminero_ means a road\nman, and Cameron Forbes is of course known to the Filipino as \"Caminero\nForbays.\" He had been a commissioner five years when made governor\ngeneral, which office he held for four more. When Mr. Wilson became\npresident, Governor Forbes was advised not to tender his resignation,\nfor it was believed the new administration would wish to keep the\nIslands clear of the spoil system.\n\nSuddenly out of a clear sky, the Governor General received this\ncablegram from the Insular Bureau:\n\n\"Harrison confirmed August 21st. The President desires him to sail\nSeptember 10th. Will it be convenient to have your resignation accepted\nSeptember 1st. Harrison to accept and take the oath of office September\n2nd. The President desires to meet your convenience. Should Harrison\ntake linen, silver, glass, china and automobiles? What else would you\nsuggest? Wife and children will accompany him. Please engage for him\nservants you leave.\"\n\n[Illustration: BENGUET ROAD]\n\nWorst of all, it was given out to the papers before the Governor\nreceived it, so that certain anti-American sheets in Manila had the\npleasure of flaunting the news on their front pages for him to read.\nSurely some more considerate and courteous method of retiring a fine\nadministrator might have been devised than this abrupt and rude\ndismissal, and it would seem that petty household matters might have\nbeen kept separate.\n\nSecretary Worcester, also a native of New England, who is the greatest\nliving authority on the Islands, and whose achievements with the wild,\nnon-Christian tribes had been marvelous--to say nothing of his other\nexcellent work--had also of course to resign. Forbes, by the way, is not\na Republican, but neither is he a Democrat, and Independents are not\npolitically useful.\n\nThe work of the administration immediately preceding that of Governor\nHarrison is worth at least a partial summary. Besides building roads,\nestablishing a good health resort at Baguio, systematizing the work of\nthe government, reducing the number of bureaus, cutting down expenses\nand eliminating duplication of work, and numerous other public services,\nGovernor Forbes succeeded in accomplishing the following:\n\nThe reorganization of the merchant marine.\n\nThe construction of aids to navigation--buoys, lighthouses and beacons,\nwharves and harbours.\n\nThe removal of restrictions from shipping.\n\nThe establishment of a policy for the exclusive use of permanent\nmaterials in construction, practically all the construction in the\nIslands being done of reinforced concrete and selected woods.\n\nThe passage of a law providing for proper development of irrigation,\nlaying aside an annual sum for that purpose.\n\nThe establishment of a cadastral law for registering law titles. \"Under\nthis system it was possible to get land titles settled, one of the most\ndifficult and important problems confronting any government and one\nbearing directly on the welfare of the people in various ways.\n\n\"A general system was adopted of loaning to provinces and municipalities\nto encourage them in the construction of public works, particularly\nthose of a revenue-bearing nature; most especially markets, which\nimproved the sanitary condition of the food supply and proved both\npopular with the people and profitable for the municipalities; these\nmarkets usually paid for themselves in five years from the increased\nrevenues.\n\n[Illustration: FIRST PHILIPPINE ASSEMBLY.]\n\n\"The Governor's influence was used throughout to make the instruction in\nthe schools practical in its nature; children were taught to make things\nthat would prove to be salable and which would give them a living. The\ndignity of labour was emphasized. Encouragement was given to foster the\nconstruction of railroads.\n\n\"The establishment of a postal savings bank encouraged the children to\ninvest. Prizes were given for that child or school which showed the best\nrecord.\" (Governor Forbes took an especial interest in the latter.)\n\nThe first general election was held in the Islands on the third of July,\n1907, to choose delegates for the Assembly. Before that the Philippine\nCommission had been the sole legislative body. The delegates were chosen\nfrom the thirty-five Christian provinces. At that time only a minute\npercentage of the population, even among the Filipinos, was qualified to\nmeet the simple conditions which would enable them to vote, and to-day\nthe percentage is far from large. The electorate consists mainly of two\nclasses, the ilustrados, or educated natives and mestizos,[16] and the\n_taos_, or peasants. The latter are not only ignorant but indifferent,\nwith no vision beyond what their eyes can see, and no interest in who\ngoverns them, so long as crops are good and taxes low. One of the tasks\nof our representatives is to educate and awaken these people to\nresponsible citizenship. It is a task still far from accomplishment.\n\nIt must be admitted that the work of the Assembly to-day, after eight\nyears of fair trial, does not encourage Filipinization of the service.\nIt is fortunate--at times--that the two legislative bodies have equal\npower not only to initiate legislation but to block the passage of each\nother's bills. In this way the Commission has been able to hold up some\nof the freak legislation sent up to it by the lower body. The Manila\n_Times_ has published a list of the laws which were wanted by the\nFilipino assemblymen recently. They spent the valuable time of the\nentire first session talking them over and the Commission refused to\nconcur. One was to increase their own salaries, of course. Another\nwas to erect monuments to all the ilustrados who had cried \"_Bajo los\nAmericanos_\" most loudly. Others wanted to fly the Philippine flag above\nthe American on all masts, to make a legal holiday of the birthday of\nRizal's grandmother, and to free all prisoners, no matter what their\ncrimes.\n\n[Illustration: OSME\u00d1A, THE SPEAKER OF THE FIRST ASSEMBLY.]\n\nAs may be imagined, a body of men which can pass such bills is quite\ncapable of blocking the sane legislation which comes to them for\napproval, and unfortunately they have the power to do this. The way in\nwhich the slavery question was handled illustrates their methods.\n\nSlavery was known to exist in the Islands, and to take two\nforms,--actual slavery, where one person was sold by another, and a sort\nof semi-slavery, or peonage, where a man sold his services for debt.\n\nThe peon was given his keep, but the interest on his debt was added\nfaster than he could earn. He was really a slave, except that he had\nsold himself rather than been sold by another. But his debts might be\nbought and sold, so that it amounted to the same thing in the end.\nInterest was sometimes as high as ten per cent a month, while fifty\ncents a month was allowed for his services. Worcester in his book tells\nof a man who borrowed $1.25, which he and his wife and children worked\nseveral years in the effort to repay; but by that time the amount had\nbecome $37.50!\n\nSpain had nominally abolished slavery long before, but it had continued\nin force in both the Christian and non-Christian provinces. The\nlegislators themselves held peons. The law of Congress creating the\nPhilippine Government prohibited slavery, but there are no penalties\nattached, so it could not be enforced.\n\nThe Filipinos denied that slavery existed in the Islands. Worcester made\na careful investigation, and an exhaustive report on both slavery and\npeonage. All but a few copies of this report were burned by a Filipino\nofficial. It was a subject which neither the Filipino politician nor\ntheir self-styled friends the anti-imperialists wished to see discussed\nin print. The Manila papers had been absolutely silent on the subject,\nand even the anti-slavery legislation which was finally forced through,\nafter having been tabled again and again without so much as the briefest\nformality of discussion, passed unnoticed. It was a sore subject, and\nthe Filipino method of treating a sore subject is not to heal it, but to\nrefrain from discussing it.\n\nThere is no question but we have given the Filipinos too much power for\ntheir own good. They now, under the Democratic Administration, have five\nmembers in the Commission, to America's four. They have to-day much\npower--only colonies such as Canada and Australia have more, while Egypt\nhas been given less in a generation than the Filipinos have received in\nten years.\n\nThe present governor, Francis Burton Harrison, has been severely\ncriticized. His party was pledged to a rapid Filipinization which has\nproved disastrous, for it was devised by men wholly ignorant of the\nsituation. The destruction of the wonderful civil service system so\ncarefully built up in the early days as an object lesson to Spanish-bred\npoliticians, is only one of many changes which have been brought about.\n\nWe have certainly lost prestige in the Islands under the Democratic\nAdministration. Filipinos no longer remove their hats during the playing\nof the Star Spangled Banner on the Luneta, so Governor Harrison finally\ntried to discontinue the playing of the national anthem. The American\ncommunity would not stand this, however, so it was resumed. In many\nother ways the Filipinos have become \"cocky.\" This of course does not\napply to the tao, who plods along regardless of politics.\n\nA friend wrote me recently, \"I don't think I could give you a more\naccurate idea of what most Americans and British, and even intelligent\nnatives, think of this Democratic administration than to repeat a\nconversation I overheard in the Fort McKinley cars one morning between\ntwo coloured American soldiers. They began by laughing at Harrison's\n'give them what they want' speech, and speaking of the Filipinos as\n'spoiled children.' 'Well,' said one dusky brave, 'we have one more year\nof this rotten administration, then, thank Gawd, we'll have a white\nman's government!'\"\n\nProfessor Thomas Lindsey Blayney writes in one of the magazines: \"I\ntalked with business men, native and foreign educators, clergymen, army\nand navy officers, editors American and British, and many Filipinos of\nundoubted patriotism and intelligence, and I do not hesitate to assure\nyou that the demoralizing tendency of the policies of the present\nAmerican administration in the Islands is deserving of the widest\npublicity.\" The situation, he says, \"is bidding fair to become a\nnational disgrace if we allow politics and sentiment to take the place\nof reason and justice.\" He goes on to say, \"There is no phenomenon of\nour national life more passing strange than that which induces many of\nour good people to accept the statements of paid emissaries of the\nFilipino junto, or some of our new and inexperienced officials at\nManila, rather than those of our fellow countrymen of long\nadministrative experience in the Islands.... The loss of men like\nGovernor Forbes, Mr. Worcester, Dr. Heiser, and others, is looked upon\nas a distinct setback in the development of better and more stable\ninstitutions in the entire Orient in the interest of humanity as a\nwhole.\"\n\nAll of which only bears out what Lord Cromer told Mr. Forbes--\"If your\npersonnel employed in the administration of dependencies at a distance\nbecomes subject to change with changing political parties, you are\ndoomed to failure in your effort to govern countries overseas.\"\n\nThere has recently been a great financial depression in the Islands, due\npartly to hoarding against threatened independence, and partly to the\ndifficulty the new Filipino officials of the Bureau of Internal Revenue\nfind in collecting the usual amount. A slump in real estate followed\nquickly upon the news that we might shortly leave the Islands.\nRinderpest, the cattle plague which had worked such havoc and which had\nfinally been conquered after tremendous expenditure of money and energy,\nbroke out again immediately upon the substitution of Filipinos for\nwhite men in the service. Some time the good people at home will learn\nthat giving a child candy because it cries for candy is not always the\nbest thing for the child. The Filipinos are in many ways children,\ndelightful ones, with charming manners, but needing a firm and even rule\ntill they come of age and take over their own affairs. Most Filipinos of\nintelligence realize this. In fact, they have of late been rushing in\npetitions signed by their best and most influential citizens urging the\nretention of the Islands in their present standing.\n\nWhat the Filipino wishes for himself depends upon the man. Only one in\nten, among the civilized tribes, knows anything about the discussion of\nindependence. The taos would like independence if they believe it to be\nwhat their politicians have told them--freedom to do as they please, and\nexemption from taxes. Otherwise they are not interested.\n\nWhen the Jones bill was being discussed a Moro elevator boy at the War\nDepartment in Washington was asked, \"If the Filipinos are given their\nindependence, how will you feel?\" \"I am an American now,\" he answered,\n\"but if that happen--I go back, and with the Moros fight the\nFilipinos!\"\n\nMost people fail to realize that the Islands are no financial burden to\nthis country. They are, and have always been, wholly self-supporting.\nTheir revenues pay their bills, and their taxes, incidentally, are the\nlowest in the civilized world. We keep soldiers there but only the cost\nof their transportation is extra.\n\nOur rule in the Philippines has been the greatest of all paradoxes, a\nbenevolent despotism working ardently for its own destruction. This is\nvery unusual, and rather fine. We ought to be proud of what we have\ndone, and very anxious to see the work well finished. Good men have\ngiven their lives for it, and few of those who lived have come out after\nyears of thankless toil in a tropical land, with as much as they had\nwhen they went into the service. We owe it to them and to our helpless\nwards, as well as to our national honour, to see the thing through.\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER V\n\nHEALING A NATION\n\n\nThe sanitary conditions which existed in the Islands twenty odd years\nago would seem to us appalling, but perhaps they were no worse than\nthose of some other tropical countries at that time. Even the most\nprogressive colonizers, like the English, had given up trying radical\nreforms, contenting themselves with making passably healthful\nconditions, especially for the European part of the towns. The\ncombination of climate and native inertia seemed to them one which it\nwas difficult and almost hopeless to combat. So it remained for us to\nprove that the thing could be done--that a tropical country could be\nmade sanitary and hygienic for all its inhabitants, whether they were\nwhite or brown or yellow, and whether they wanted it made so or not. If\nwe had done nothing else for our restless dependency, that achievement\nwould be a sufficient crown of glory.\n\nManila was then, as it still is, the most highly civilized spot in the\nIslands. As I have said, much of the walled city was built of stone\nand plaster, but many of the natives in the suburbs lived in one-room\nhouses made of wood and raised on stilts. No provision whatever was made\nfor drainage or for the removal of garbage. Each house was a law unto\nitself and very often an offense unto its neighbours.\n\n[Illustration: _A Carabao_]\n\nA large part of the city drained, directly or indirectly, into the Pasig\nRiver. Here, also, the carabao, which is not a fastidious animal, went\nfor his mud baths, and the women washed their clothes. This river\nfurnished drinking water for all who lived near enough to share the\nprivilege. It was said to have a flavour like the Ganges, which they\nsorely missed later on when a purer supply was substituted.\n\nThe medieval wall, which allowed for many damp, unhealthy corners,\ninterfered with municipal ventilation. No cleansing winds can sweep\nthrough a city whose every street ends in a high wall. Outside was a\nstagnant moat which made a convenient breeding place for the industrious\nmosquito.\n\nThe local market used to be a community dwelling for all the vendors,\nwho lived there, reveling in their filth. Their children were born\nthere, also their dogs, pigs, cats, and chickens. It was so vile\nsmelling that no American dared go into it. Never being cleaned, it was\nthe center from which disease was spread to the city.\n\nThese markets were the first places to be cleaned by the Americans. The\nfirst step was always to burn up the entire shed, and then build an iron\nand concrete structure, which could be washed down every night with a\nhose. Only the night watchman was allowed to live there.\n\nThis is only typical of changes made in every department, from market to\nschool, from custom house to palace. To tell a long story very shortly,\ngaps have been opened in the city walls to let in the air, the moat has\nbeen filled in with soil dredged from the bay to make a field for\nsports, nearby marshes have been reclaimed and old wells filled up,\nwhile a sewerage system and a method of collecting refuse have of course\nbeen established. The new water system has cut the death rate from\nwater-borne diseases in half. To stop an epidemic whole districts of\nhuts which could not be fumigated were burned and others were sprayed\nwith strong disinfectants by fire engines. Slowly the people are being\ntaught the rules of hygiene. The new and up-to-date medical school is\nturning out very good doctors, and the school of nursing, most excellent\nnurses, who are gentle, cheerful and dainty.\n\nThe modern hospitals were at first regarded with suspicion by the\nnatives, who went with the greatest reluctance for treatment. But to-day\nthe difficulty is to keep them out. A toothache is excuse enough for a\nweek's sojourn with free board. The native doctor often is a skilful\ngrafter, and has to be watched, otherwise he may pass in all his poor\nrelations, more to give them food and rest than for illness. A friend\nwas much annoyed while sick in a Manila hospital by some Filipina girls\nin pink and lilac hospital gowns who were romping through the corridors.\nHer nurse explained that they were passed in by the native doctor. One\nof these physicians had every bed in his ward filled with patients who\nwere not ill but just enjoying themselves. Some of these doctors abuse\ntheir authority in other ways. One of them, it was discovered, used to\ngo to San Lazaro, the hospital for contagious diseases, and take friends\nwho were detained there with leprosy to ride in public vehicles.\n\nBut aside from occasional abuses by natives, the work which has been\ndone for the public health in Manila is an example of what has been\naccomplished elsewhere. In many of the provincial towns the introduction\nof artesian wells has brought the death rate tumbling down to half its\nformer size. The work was carried on under disadvantages at first, for\nit was the butt of much ridicule and abuse--the former from abroad, the\nlatter from the native press. Medical authorities in other parts of the\nFar East laughed at our efforts to create better conditions for the\nFilipinos, and told us that Orientals were incapable of sanitary\nreforms. Before long, these same men were seeking to learn by what magic\nwe had accomplished what they had hardly dared even attempt, and were\nsending delegates to Manila to study our methods.[17]\n\nWhen Americans went there they found the Filipinos a race of\nsemi-invalids. Those who had managed to survive the various scourges\nwhich were constantly sweeping the Islands were often infected with\nhookworm or similar parasites which sapped their vitality. Many of them\nwere tubercular, and most of them were under-fed. The laziness which\nmade several Filipino workmen equal to one American was much of it due\nto actual physical weakness. As a people, they are showing a marked\nimprovement in energy and activity. It was from changes of this sort\nthat the would-be benevolent anti-imperialists laboured to save them.\n\nOf course, a great deal remains for us to do. Half the babies still die\nbefore they are a year old. Only a beginning has been made in stamping\nout tuberculosis. The people have not yet been educated out of that\nfatalism which makes them prefer acceptance of evil to fighting it. But\nas fast as they learn English they come under our educative influence\nmore and more.\n\nDr. Richard P. Strong, whom we knew when we were in the Islands and who\nis now at the Harvard Medical School lecturing on tropical diseases, has\ndone many notable things in various parts of the world. We all know\nabout his wonderful work in the northern part of China, when the\npneumonic plague[18] was raging there a few years ago, and still later\nhis heroism among the typhus-stricken soldiers of Serbia. But we do not\nall know that, among other things, he has discovered a cure for a\ndreadful skin disease called yaws, which has been prevalent in the\nPhilippines. A doctor in Bontoc cured a case with a single injection of\nsalvarsan. The \"case\" was so delighted that he escaped from the\nhospital before a second injection could be given him, rushed home to\nhis native village, and returned a day or so later with a dozen or more\nof his neighbours who were suffering from the same trouble.\n\nWe were fortunate in traveling through the Islands with Dr. Heiser, who\nhad entire control of the health conditions there for many years--in\nfact, until the Democratic administration. To him is largely due the\npractical disappearance of smallpox from the Philippines. When the\nAmericans took over the country there were sometimes over fifty thousand\ndeaths a year from this one disease. The change is the direct result of\nthe ten million vaccinations which were performed by American officials.\nAn effort was made to entrust the vaccinating to Filipino officials, but\nepidemics kept breaking out, and it was discovered that their work was\nbeing done chiefly on paper.\n\nIn a recent letter a friend writes, \"The other day one of our servants,\nCrispin, was ill. I tried to get him to go to the hospital, but he\ninsisted he was not sick. I did not enjoy having him wait on the table,\nfor I thought he had measles. So I took him to the hospital myself and\ntold him to do what the doctor said. When I returned home a telephone\ncall summoned us to the hospital to be vaccinated at once, for Crispin\nhad the smallpox! They sent him to San Lazaro, where he had a good time,\nand came home smiling, while we spent a miserable ten days waiting to\nsee what was going to happen to us. The native _saindados_ came promptly\nto disinfect, but all they did was to put a bucket of something in the\ncenter of the room. I soon saw that they were not going to be thorough,\nso after ten minutes, just as they were going away, I called them back\nand telephoned to the board of health, asking if no American sanitary\nofficer was coming. They said no, that Filipinos had been put in all the\nwhite men's places. So I went to work myself, burning bedding, clothes\nand hangings, and opening every trunk and closet. It was a revelation to\nthose two little natives, who thought they had done enough before.\"\n\nApparently the natives had the same aversion to the preventive method of\nvaccination that some of our own countryfolk have, for Dr. Heiser writes\nof the early work in the field: \"Formerly ... the lives of the\nvaccinators were seriously threatened by persons who refused to be\nvaccinated. However, after much persuasion, a considerable number of the\ninhabitants were vaccinated. Shortly afterwards smallpox was introduced\nand the death rate among the unvaccinated became alarming; the people\nthemselves then noted that in spite of the fact that the vaccinated\npersons frequently came in constant contact with the disease they did\nnot contract it, while the unvaccinated died in large numbers. This led\nto urgent request being made for vaccination and the vaccinators who\npreviously found their lives in constant danger were welcomed.\"\n\nBut perhaps Dr. Heiser's greatest work has been done in freeing the\nIslands of the worst-feared disease of all times and nations--leprosy. I\nwas walking along the street with him one day when he noticed the\nswollen ear lobes of a man near by. It was one of the first symptoms of\nleprosy. He stopped and spoke to the man and walked with him to the\nhospital. The disease is not really so much to be feared as people\nthink, for it is seldom inherited and is not easily contagious.\n\nWe had planned to go to Culion, the beautiful island where thousands of\nlepers have been taken to live or to die, and where they have every care\nand comfort that science and unselfish devotion can give them.\nUnfortunately for us, the Secretary of War was obliged to cut the trip\nshort, owing to official business in Manila, so we did not go there. We\nheard so much about the place that this was a real disappointment.\n\nThe island is a day's sail from Manila. It is well forested, and has\nhills and fertile valleys and a fine harbour. The more important\nbuildings of the town which the authorities knew would be needed by the\nthousands of lepers then at large, were built from the foundations\nentirely of concrete, for sanitary reasons and economy. Besides hundreds\nof houses, one finds there to-day a theater, a town hall, a school,\ndining halls, hospitals, stores, docks and warehouses. Water, lighting\nand sewerage systems were also constructed, and a separate settlement\nwas built for the non-leprous employees.\n\nCulion is really a leper's heaven. The people have perfect freedom, and\nlive normal lives, farming or fishing when they are able, carrying on\ntheir own government, having their own police force, playing in the band\nif they are musical, giving theatrical performances. They have social\ndistinctions, too--those better born take the place denied them in the\nouter world because of their affliction. Here they are again Somebody.\n\nWhen Americans took possession of the Islands there were six thousand\nlepers at large. Two things evidently had to be done--first, prevent a\nfurther spread of the disease; and second, cure those who already had\nit, if this were possible.\n\nSegregation of all known cases, as fast as accommodations could be\nprovided for them, was the immediate necessity. The colony at Culion was\nopened in 1906 with five hundred patients. These went reluctantly to\ntheir new abode, but once settled there, found it so much to their\nliking that they wrote home enthusiastically, and after that the\nauthorities had no difficulty in persuading others to go. Indeed, the\nplight of these poor outcasts had been pitiful enough. They were so\nneglected that in one of the larger cities they had been known to go\ninto the markets and handle the produce, as a protest against their\ntreatment.\n\nMore than eight thousand have been transferred to Culion in all, and\nto-day every known leper in the Philippines is there. New cases are\nstill occasionally found, but even the worst provinces are now\npractically free from the historic scourge. It was that remarkable man,\nDr. Heiser, who not only organized and carried out this great\nundertaking, but who himself saw to the smallest details. Many times he\nis known to have carried the loathsome patients in his own arms.\n\nThe second problem, that of finding a cure, was not so easily solved.\nBut it has been found, and our nation had the credit of finding it--\"the\nfirst definite cure ever established,\" Dr. Heiser says. Two methods were\ntried out very carefully, both with some success. The first was the\nx-ray, which brought a marked improvement in most of the cases where it\nwas used, and an apparent cure in one case. The other method was the use\nof chaulmoogra oil. This remedy had been known and used in the Far East\nfor some time, but it could rarely be given long enough to produce much\neffect, because it was so unpleasant to swallow. Our doctors, however,\ndevised ways of injecting it, after mixing it with resorcin and\ncamphorated oil, so that there were no ill effects. Already several\ncures have resulted.\n\nTen years ago there were forty thousand users of opium in the Islands.\nIn five years that number was reduced ninety-five per cent, and most of\nthose still addicted to the drug are Chinese. In the last few years,\nmoreover, cholera and bubonic plague have been practically wiped out,\nbut, of course, a few other tropical diseases still exist.\n\nThe Philippine Assembly recently conceived the brilliant idea of cutting\ndown expenses by halving the health appropriation. Dr. Heiser got\npermission to speak before them, but instead of talking a few minutes,\nas they expected, he spoke for three days. He told them that if they did\nnot give him the money he needed for the work, he would be forced to\neconomize by setting free the criminally insane, who, he promised,\nshould be given tags stating that they had been set free by order of the\nAssembly. Also, he said, he would have to send back many of the lepers\nto their friends. It proved to be the way to deal with the child-like\nlegislators, who in the end gave him what he wanted. Since that,\nhowever, he has resigned, and his loss will be sadly felt. Indeed, there\nhas already been an outbreak of cholera since he left.\n\nRegenerative work among the Filipinos has by no means been confined to\ntheir bodies, however, for besides the educational advance that has been\nmade in their schools, which I have mentioned elsewhere, their prisons\nhave become sources of light instead of darkness. It is true that\npenology in the Philippines has gone ahead with great strides.\n\nIn Bontoc, for instance, there is a prison which the commissioner in\ncharge of the province proudly called his \"university.\" Its inmates are\nmen of the mountains. In the old days they would have been sent to\nBilibid prison in Manila, where few of them lived over two years. A\nlonger term meant practically a death sentence. This provincial jail is\nsituated in the high and healthy capital of the province, and is kept\nclean and sanitary by the prisoners themselves. The men are well fed and\ncared for, and they are taught trades, and made to work at them, too, so\nthat they learn industry along with technical skill.\n\nBilibid prison is a huge institution. It occupies several acres of land\nin the heart of the city of Manila, its buildings radiating from a\ncommon center, so that the guard in the high tower at the hub can\noverlook anything that occurs. High walls surround the whole, patrolled\nby watchful guards and mounted with gatling guns. It is an extraordinary\ninstitution, inherited from Spanish rule, but, like everything else,\ncompletely changed since then. The wives of men committed there were\nconsidered widowed in those days, since so few survived a long term, and\nwere free to marry again. There has been some confusion of late years,\nbecause most of the prisoners not only come out alive, but healthier\nthan when they went in. So prison \"widows\" who remarried found that\nthey had not counted on American methods. Bilibid, though in many ways\nstill rather experimental, is a great success.\n\nThere are extensive shops, and the prisoners are kept at work all the\ntime. Some make silverware, carriages, and furniture, while others do\nthe cooking and washing for the prison, make their clothes, and run a\nlaundry, not only for their own use, but for outside custom. Many are\nemployed in road building and on fortifications. Each man learns a trade\nduring his term of imprisonment, and so is better able to earn an honest\nlivelihood than when he entered. I have been told that Bilibid\n\"graduates\" are in demand because of their honesty and industry. No\nbetter recommendation for a prison could be desired.\n\nBesides the shops, there is a school in which they are taught English.\nThe day we visited the prison we saw a teacher there who had been a\nguest at the Governor's table, but as he had forged a check he was\npaying the penalty. Most of the attendants in the up-to-date prison\nhospital were Spaniards who were in for life sentences and who made very\ngood nurses. Part of this institution is devoted to consumptives, of\nwhom there are so many in the Islands, and they receive treatment\naccording to the best and latest methods.\n\n[Illustration: PENAL COLONY ON THE ISLAND OF PALAWAN.]\n\nWe were much interested in the kitchens, and the manner in which food\nwas issued to several thousands in only six minutes. It was all\nwonderfully systematized.\n\nLate in the afternoon we went up into the central tower to watch the\n\"retreat.\" The prisoners' band, which had played for us as we entered\nthe prison gates, now took its place in the courtyard below and began to\nplay. Out of the workrooms trooped hundreds of convicts, who were\nsearched for hidden implements and then released to take their position\nin military formation. The different groups marched to their quarters\nand, standing outside, went through a series of exercises to the music\nof the band. They seemed to enjoy this very much, and later, still to\nthe music, marched gaily off to get their rations.\n\nA long-term prisoner with two years of good conduct to his credit is\ngiven the privilege of going to the penal colony on the island of\nPalawan. This island is one of the more southern ones, and is the place\nwhere the Spanish sent their convicts in the old days. But the present\ncolony, which was established by Governor Forbes, is very different from\nthe former one. It was once a malarial jungle, but now is a healthy,\nthoroughly up-to-date and successful reform institution.\n\nOur visit to this place was one of the most interesting features of our\nwhole trip. Palawan itself is a curiosity, for it has an underground\nriver which has been explored for two miles beneath a mountain. But the\npenal settlement is unique.\n\nLeaving the steamer at Puerto Princessa, a quaint little town with\ncharming old Spanish gardens, we were met by a launch which took us up\nthe Iwahig River to the colony. This launch, which was gaily decked with\nflags, was manned by convicts, the engineer himself being under a\nsentence of nineteen years for murder. After an hour's sail up the\ntropical river, we reached our destination. At the wharf we were greeted\nby Mr. Lamb, superintendent of the colony, a Dominican priest, and a\ncrowd of prisoners who were enjoying a holiday.\n\nWe were driven to headquarters, near a pretty plaza with hedges and\nflowers, surrounded by several two-story barracks built of bamboo and\nnipa, where the prisoners live. As we walked about the plaza we visited\nthe hospital and the chapel, as well as the main office and the\nsuperintendent's house.\n\nThe penal settlement is located on a reservation of two hundred and\nseventy square miles. At the time of our visit there were in all eleven\nhundred convicts--Filipinos for the most part, with a few Moros--and\nonly three white men to keep them in order. The prisoners had all come\nfrom Bilibid prison.\n\nIn its management, the colony is somewhat like the George Junior\nRepublic for boys in America. The prisoners elect their own judges and\nmake some of their own laws, subject to the approval of the\nsuperintendent. A majority verdict will convict, but the superintendent\nhas the right to veto any measures. Men who break the laws are locked\nup, but can be released on bail.\n\nThe police force is composed of convicts, of course. The chief of police\nwhen we were there was a murderer who had earned his pardon but\npreferred to remain in the settlement. If a prisoner tries to escape he\nis followed, and occasionally one is shot. The attempt is seldom made,\nfor it is difficult to get away, and the men are, moreover, quite\ncontent to live there. Once thirty-five convicts did make a break for\nliberty, but beyond the confines of the settlement they found themselves\nin the midst of the savage Mangyans, by whom some were killed. Of the\nrest, those who were not captured alive returned of their own free will\nand were consigned again to Bilibid, which is considered a great\npunishment.\n\nFor good behaviour, convicts may earn the right to have a house of their\nown, with their family, one bull or carabao, and a little farm to\ncultivate. There were then a hundred and eighty of these farmers, who\nraised their crops on shares, the government receiving half. They had to\nreport to headquarters by telephone every other day and undergo a weekly\ninspection as well. Every year they were obliged to plant cocoanuts,\nwhich in a few years were expected to bring in large returns. Already\ngreat quantities of yams were being shipped to Bilibid, and in a short\ntime enough cattle would be delivered there to supply, in part at least,\nthe meat demand of that prison. The colony suggests the possible\nsolution of the meat question for the American army in the Philippines,\nas they were successfully raising calves from native cows by Indian\nbulls.\n\nAlthough the majority of the prisoners were engaged in farming, they\nwere often given the privilege of selecting the kind of work that they\npreferred, and were divided accordingly, their hats and the signs on the\nsleeves of their prison clothes showing what grade of convict they\nbelonged to and what work they did. They were paid in the money of the\ncolony, which was good nowhere else.\n\nThere were about forty women on the reservation. The men might marry if\nthey earned the privilege, or if already married, they might have their\nwives and children come to live with them. There were six marriages the\nyear we were there. After receiving their pardons, they could remain on\nthe island if they wished, their work being credited toward the purchase\nof their farms, but they had to continue under the laws of the colony.\n\nAt the main office we saw four prisoners who were about to be pardoned.\nGovernor Forbes very kindly asked me to hand them their pardons and ask\nany questions I wished. One, a _bandolero_, or brigand, was small and\nwizened. Another, who looked much like him, when asked what crime he had\ncommitted, laughed and answered, \"Bigamy!\" A third, a stolid, thickset\nfellow, had the best face of them all, but showed no emotion whatever\nwhen I gave him his pardon. He also had been a brigand.\n\nThe convicts gave an exhibition fire drill for us at the barracks. The\nnatives are born climbers, and scramble down the poles with the agility\nof monkeys. They also play baseball, of course. They are remarkably\nmusical and have a good band.\n\nWe had luncheon with Mr. and Mrs. Lamb in their pretty bamboo and nipa\ncottage. Mrs. Lamb was a frail little woman, but strong in spirit, for\nshe did not seem at all afraid to live in this land of evil men. She\ntold us that the three murderers whom she had as servants were very\nefficient, and were devoted to her little four-year-old son.\n\nWhen our visit ended we were driven in a wagon to the river, accompanied\nby a troop of prisoners who ran alongside shouting good-bys. At the\nwharf they lined up while Mr. Lamb and the priest bowed us politely\naboard the launch.\n\nThese intrepid countrymen of ours, who are healing and uplifting a whole\npeople, seem to me to be true missionaries. The time may come when the\nwork which they are doing will set a standard for us stay-at-homes to\nfollow, that is, if we send the right kind of men out there. As the song\nsays,\n\n \"Ah, those were the days when the best men won,\n The survival of those that were fit--\n When the work to be done counted everything,\n And politics nary a bit.\"\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER VI\n\nDOG-EATERS AND OTHERS\n\n\nThe natives of the Philippines are Malays, as I have said, but they are\nsometimes classified as Christian, Pagan and Mohammedan Malays. The\nChristian and educated tribes live near the coast on the lowlands and\nare called Filipinos. They have intermarried greatly with the Spaniards\nand Chinese. There are twenty-seven non-Christian tribes in the\nIslands--about four hundred thousand in number in the Mountain Province\nof Luzon alone. These hill people are seldom seen, although during the\nlast few years most of the tribes have come under government influence\nand head-hunting has been more or less given up. These dwellers in the\nmountains include the aborigines who were driven out of the valleys by\nthe Malays, and also the Malays of the earlier migration, who refused to\nembrace the Mohammedanism of the Moros of the southern islands or the\nChristianity of the Spaniards.\n\nWe were fortunate in having the opportunity to see some of the\ndog-eaters and other hill people. Our party was divided, and while\nseveral of the men went into the heart of the head-hunting country, the\nrest of us took the train to Baguio, the mountain capital. What a night\nit was! The heat was frightful, and swarms of mosquitoes added to the\ntorture. But at sunrise, as I sat on the back platform while the train\nsteamed through rows of cocoanut palms, past little huts and stations, I\nwas reminded of this verse:\n\n \"Mighty, luminous and calm\n Is the country of the palm,\n Crowned with sunset and sunrise,\n Under blue unbroken skies,\n Waving from green zone to zone,\n Over wonders of its own;\n Trackless, untraversed, unknown,\n Changeless through the centuries.\"\n\nLeaving the tropics behind, we climbed up, up among the glorious\nmountains. At last the train stopped at a little station, and we took\nthe motors that were waiting and went on higher and higher into\ncloudland, where the tall pines grew and the mountains rose into the\nsky. We had indeed ascended \"into Paradise from Purgatory.\" As one\nresident in Manila expressed it: \"The heavenly coolness, the sweet\npine air and the exquisite scenery give you new life after the years\nspent in the heat, glare, dust and smells of the lowlands.\"\n\n[Illustration: THE PARTY AT BAGUIO.]\n\nWe were passing over the far-famed Benguet Road, one of the finest\nhighways in the world, which wound in and out through the gorges of the\nmountains, repeatedly crossing the river that roared beneath. For twenty\nmiles we zigzagged up the slopes, with widening views of great hills\nopening before us, and cascades bursting out from beneath the mountains,\ntill we came out on the plateau of Baguio, five thousand feet above the\nsea.\n\nThis road, which has been a favourite theme for discussion by\npoliticians, was opened to traffic in 1905. It is true that the cost of\nthe roadway was beyond what anybody had anticipated, on account of the\nmany bridges that had to be repaired each year after the rainy season,\nand also after the destructive typhoons that sweep over the island--one\nin 1911 brought a rainfall of forty-six inches in twenty-four\nhours--which hurl avalanches of d\u00e9bris from the mountain slopes. For\nthis reason a new road from Bauang to Baguio has been commenced, not\nnearly so direct but requiring only a few bridges, and it is to be hoped\nwill prove successful and more economical than the other.\n\nBaguio, in the midst of glorious mountain scenery, where the temperature\nnever goes above eighty and the nights are deliciously cool, really is\nan ideal health resort for a tropical country. The Philippines have Mr.\nWorcester and Mr. Forbes to thank for this blessing. Government\nbuildings were erected, and the whole force of the government was moved\nup there for the hot season, with the rich return of the improved health\nand greater efficiency of the employees. A hospital for tuberculosis was\nbuilt, and a much needed school for American children, the Jesuit\nobservatory was established, and Camp John Hay was laid out as a\npermanent military post. Many people bought land and put up little\nbungalows. A teachers' camp was started by the Bureau of Education for\nAmerican teachers from all over the Islands, where they had not only\nrest and recreation but the mental brushing up of good lectures after\nmonths in lonely stations.\n\nWhen the Democratic Administration began its changes in the Philippines,\ngovernment offices were ordered to be kept in Manila throughout the\nyear, consequently only the higher officials were able to go to Baguio,\nwith a result patent to every one in the lessened efficiency of the\nforce. But within the last two or three years, the Filipinos have come\nto appreciate the place, which was a revelation to them. Now rich and\npoor manage to go there, and they have taken possession. The benefits of\nBaguio and the Benguet Road are felt even in Manila, where Americans are\nbeginning to get fresh garden peas, summer squash, wax beans and real\nstrawberries(!). A friend writes, \"If the time ever comes when we can\nhave real cow's milk and cream, then our food will be as good as\nanywhere in the States.\"\n\nWe had a glorious week at Topside, Governor Forbes's attractive\nbungalow, and speedily became as enthusiastic in our praises of Baguio\nas every one else who has ever been there. I rode all day long on Black\nCrook, the most perfect polo pony in the world, through the mists and\nthe sunlight and into the rainbow shades of the setting sun, where the\nclouds turned the colour of cockatoos' wings and the tints of the fish\nfrom the China Sea.\n\n \"Cloud Maidens that float on forever,\n Dew-sprinkled, fleet bodies, and fair,\n Let us rise from our Sire's loud river,\n Great Ocean, and soar through the air\n To the peaks of pine-covered mountains\n Where the pines hang as tresses of hair.\"\n\nI played my first polo game at Baguio on the club grounds. Squash Pie,\nCalico Pie and other delightful names were given to the native ponies,\nwhich are small but very strong.\n\nWe went to the government stock farm, where they are trying experiments\nin breeding horses. They had a native pony there that had been well fed\nand taken care of for some time, in order to show the difference between\nit and the forlorn animals that one might see anywhere in the towns. The\nnative Spanish pony has greatly degenerated. At this farm they had a\nbeautiful Arabian stallion and a Morgan stallion from Vermont. It is\nsaid that the first generation of American horses does well in the\nPhilippines, but after that the climate and the change in food cause\nthem to deteriorate. Besides, they are rather too big for mountain\ncavalry. The Arabian stallion and the native mare are said to breed the\nbest kind of horse for this country. Black Scotch cattle and Australian\ncattle, which are raised at the government farm, do well. Sheep do not\npay, for, to begin with, there is no market for the wool. Goats do well,\nand goats' milk is in great demand. The natives use principally the\ncarabao and the native cattle, which look like small Jersey cows but are\nnot very good.\n\nAnother day, Mrs. Whitmarsh, from Boston, gave us a tea in a little\nhouse hung with orchids and Japanese lanterns, and we visited Mr.\nWhitmarsh's gold mine. Some of us went on horseback down into the valley\nto see the tunnels. We washed a pan of ore in the brook and found at the\nbottom little fine gold specks. The Benguet Igorots have mined gold for\ncenturies.\n\n[Illustration: IGOROT SCHOOL GIRL WEAVING.]\n\nAt Baguio we visited missionary and government schools and Camp John\nHay, where Captain Hilgard gave us a reception. At the government school\nthe Igorot boys are taught, among other things, to make attractive\nmission furniture, while the girls learn to weave, and very pretty\nthings they make. These girls wear short blue skirts and little jackets,\nand have their hair in two long black braids that hang on either side of\ntheir faces. A Turkish towel, worn as a turban, on which to rest\nburdens, seemed to be the fashion in head gear with them. Loads are also\ncarried by the Igorots on their backs, hung by straps over the forehead.\n\nIt was an Igorot child in this school who wrote the following article\nupon Mrs. Dickinson's visit at Baguio:\n\n\"It was yesterday morning very early when we started from here to the\nPost Office to meet a lady named Mrs. Dickinson. So early we all went\ndown the brook to take our bath. After we had taken our bath we had\nbreakfast. I was late so Ina scolded me, but I am glad she did it so\nthat some day I won't do it again. Then we were all line up in two by\ntwo. When we got up to the Post Office she was not there so we waited\nfor her an hour or two. After waiting for them they arrived suddenly.\nThere were some ladies who accompanied Mrs. Dickinson. We were very much\npleased to see her and she was much pleased too. The first time that she\ncame in the Philippine Islands from America and she is soprice\n(surprised). We sang three songs and the National Anthem and waving our\nflags on the road. When we finished singing they clapped their hands. I\ngave her a bouquet of pink flowers. This we did it for our honour of\nMrs. Dickinson not because she is more kind or lovely lady but because\nshe is the wife of Mr. Dickinson. This Secretary of War is the leader of\nthose who have authorities. He is responsible of them. After that we\ncame right back. Miss B. came for school. We cleaned the schoolroom and\nthe yard so that they will be so tidy when they come to see the school\nat three o'clock. We fixed the two bridges and we trimmed the road\nlittle bit for their automobiles to dance on. But they left them on the\nroad yonder because they afraid might the bridges will do them\ndamage. So they walked from there to here, and when they went back, they\nwalked from here to there again, making them a journey.\"\n\n[Illustration: IGOROT OUTSIDE HIS HOUSE.]\n\nDoctor White, the missionary at Baguio, and his sister took me one day\nto the tombs of the Igorots. High on the hills looking toward the sea\nare great natural rocks with cracks in them, one of which looked like\nthe Sphinx. Here we got off our ponies, tied them, and entered on foot a\ntangled path leading to a cavern. In the faint light that sifted through\nwe saw a coffin, some baskets and some hats, and farther on, concealed\nand yet overlooking a fine view, were more wooden coffins. Some of these\nhad fallen apart so that we could see the remains of bones and clothes.\nWhen an Igorot dies the body is usually tied in a sitting position on\nthe top of a pole in the house and smoked for several days over a fire\nbuilt underneath it. Meanwhile, the family kill and cook all the pigs\nand carabaos and ponies, if the man owned any, and then gather around\nand have what they call a _ca\u00f1ao_, or feast. Afterward the bones and\nskulls of the carabaos are hung about the house to show their neighbours\nwhat a rich man he was.\n\nSome of us went one day to Mirador, the typhoon station, on a high hill\noverlooking the sea. It is in charge of a Jesuit priest, who predicts\nthe approach of typhoons and puts up storm signals, in this way\npreventing great loss of life. We were shown the instruments, which give\nwarning of earthquakes as well as typhoons, and given sherry that was\nfifty years old, delicious cake, and flowers from his garden, and we saw\nhis goats climbing up the steep crags. He told us with a chuckle that he\nhad traded his dog to an Igorot for a cow.\n\nOn Sunday we visited the dog market, but alas! we saw no dogs, as on\naccount of cholera in the vicinity, it was forbidden to sell any. A few\ndays before we had seen several men leading a number of lean and lanky\nones along the road, and these were all for sale, to be killed and\neaten. Long-haired canines are not popular, the short-haired kind are\npreferred.\n\nVice-Governor Gilbert had a ca\u00f1ao, or feast, in front of his house one\nmorning. A line of partly dressed dog-eaters arrived, bowing as they\npassed. They proved to be the chiefs or head men, who had put on what\nclothes they possessed for this occasion. They were brown, bare-legged\nmen with gee strings, as they call the woven cloth hanging about their\nwaists. Some had coats on, but nothing underneath, and only an old hat\nto complete the costume.\n\nThe Benguet Igorots, or dog-eaters, are small but strong, and remind one\nof our American Indians. They are peaceful farmers now, but in days gone\nby they fought their neighbours on the north, and so lances and shields\nare still to be found among them. \"The first American civil provincial\ngovernment established in the Philippines was in Benguet, and\ngovernmental control has been continuously exercised there since\nNovember 23, 1900. They are gladly availing themselves of the\nopportunity now afforded for the education of their children, but insist\nthat this education be practical.\"\n\nIn order to show the progress that had been made in the Philippines, a\nparty of Igorots were brought to the St. Louis Exposition. Part of the\nexhibit was a model schoolroom. Visitors were amazed at the bright,\neager little children, and at their keen interest in their lessons. But\nthey were even more amazed one day to see these same model pupils when a\ndog suddenly barked outside. For the school simply went to pieces, the\nchildren making for the nearest door. The last seen of them, they were\nin full cry after the unfortunate dog.\n\nAlthough we found the dog-eaters interesting, there are other tribes of\nfar greater interest, such as the Negritos, the warlike Ilongots and\nthe Tingians, as well as the people of the Bashee rocks of the north,\nwho are hardly ever seen.\n\nThe Negritos are diminutive and uncivilized black people who live to-day\nin a few mountain areas. They are the aborigines of the islands in this\npart of the world, and are as primitive as the Australian blacks, having\nno social or political organization but that of the family. They live in\nhollow trees or under little lean-tos of grass and brush, and subsist\nprincipally by hunting and fishing, at which they are very expert. Their\nweapons are poisoned arrows and the blow gun. The poison, which is made\neither from the leaf of a tree or from decomposed meat, is placed in the\narrow-head of hollow bone. On striking, it injects the poison into the\nflesh as a hypodermic needle would do, quickly resulting in death.\n\nThe only agricultural implement of the Negritos is a pointed stick\nhardened in the fire. To prepare the ground for cultivation, on the\nspace they wish to clear they girdle the trees, which will soon die.\nThey are then set on fire and the ashes distributed over the soil.\nLater, holes are made with the pointed sticks, and _camotes_, sugar-cane\nand tobacco are planted.\n\nThese people are very timid, and if their suspicions are aroused in the\nslightest manner, they immediately disappear into the forest. Very\nlittle success has attended any effort to civilize them. Their religion\nis nature worship with many local divinities and good and bad spirits of\nall sorts.\n\nThey ornament their bodies with scar patterns, made by cutting the skin\nwith sharp pieces of bamboo and then rubbing dirt into the wounds. In\nthis respect they are like no other tribes in the Islands but resemble\nthe most primitive of the native Africans, who also make scar patterns.\nThe men often shave the crowns of their heads in order, they say, \"to\nlet the heat out.\" The Negritos, like the Bagobos of the south,\nsometimes point their front teeth, but not by filing them as one might\nsuppose. They are chopped off with a bolo.\n\nWorcester says the Negritos \"believe that each family must take at least\none head per year or suffer misfortune in the form of sickness, wounds,\nstarvation or death.\" Heads are buried in the ground under the \"houses\"\nof the men who take them.\n\nIn regard to the Tingians of northern Luzon I also quote from Worcester,\nwho has given us the most reliable account of them:\n\n\"The women of this tribe ornament their arms with a series of bracelets\nand armlets, which often extend from wrist to shoulder. They constrict\nthe middle of the forearm during early girlhood and continue to wear\ntight armlets on the constricted portion throughout life, so that their\nforearms become somewhat hourglass-shaped, this being considered a mark\nof great beauty in spite of the unsightly swelling of the wrists which\nresults....\n\n\"Their cooking utensils are taken to the river and scrubbed with sand\nafter every meal. If a wife offers her husband dirty or soggy rice to\neat, the offense is said to afford ground for divorce....\n\n\"When a man dies, whether his death be natural or due to violence, the\nother members of his family repair by night to some village of their\nenemies, cut pieces from their turbans, and throw them down on the\nground. This is interpreted as an intimation that they will return and\ntake heads sometime within six months, and they believe that the dead\nman knows no peace until this is done.\"\n\nThe Ilongots, who live in the province of Nueva Viscaya, are especially\nwild and great head-hunters. They are striking figures in their deerskin\nrain-coats. No young man can take to himself a bride until he has\nbrought back a head to prove his prowess. The favourite time for\nthese gruesome excursions of the tribe is when the blossoms of the fire\ntree show their red beacons on the mountain sides. As an especial mark\nof beauty and valour, because a good deal of pain has to be endured in\nthe process, the men cut off the upper front teeth on a line with the\ngums.\n\n[Illustration: ILONGOT IN RAIN-COAT AND HAT OF DEERSKIN.]\n\nWoe betide the man who rides a white horse into the Ilongot country, for\nabove all things white hair is desired, and unless he stands guard over\nit, he will find its mane missing and its tail cropped to the skin.\n\nMost of the mountain people still retain their ancient myths and\ntraditions. Even among these Ilongots there are tales of the long ago\nwhen they came across a \"great water\" to their present abode. This, of\ncourse, merely explains the general migration of the Malay tribes. By\nthe way, this Malay migration is still in progress, and is exemplified\nby the Samal boatmen who come from Borneo and further south in Malaysia\nto the southern Philippines.\n\nAll the wild people have customs of their own, which distinguish them,\nespecially the manner in which they cut their hair and wear their loin\ncloths. They have slightly different methods of fighting, some fighting\nsingly with a kind of sword, others in pairs with spears and arrows,\nwhile the sword is used only to decapitate the fallen enemy. Others\ndisplay considerable ability in organization and operate large bands,\nunder especially designated chiefs. All are very fond of dancing and\nhave different dances to represent war, love and the chase.\n\nThey have their own explanations for everything, and their stories about\nthe creation of the various birds and animals are quite interesting and\nnot unlike those found among some tribes of aborigines in North America.\nOne of them relates that one day the Creator was making the different\nbirds. Before him lay bodies, wings, necks, heads and feet. He would\nbegin with the body and build it up with appropriate parts, so that it\ncould apply itself to the purpose for which it was intended. In every\ncase, the Creator was particular not to put on the wings before the bird\nwas complete, for fear that it would take flight in an imperfect\ncondition. One day while he was engaged in making an especially fine\nspecimen of the feathered world, the evil spirit approached and engaged\nthe Good Spirit in conversation. Ordinarily he would have attacked the\nEvil One and quickly put him to flight, but as the bird was nearly\nfinished and already imbued with the spark of life he wished to complete\nhim. But the Creator's anger that the Evil One should overlook his work,\nbecame so great that, without thinking, he put on the wings before the\nlegs had been fitted. Instantly the bird flew off. In haste the Creator\ngrabbed the first pair of legs he could lay his hands on and threw them\nat it. They attached themselves exactly where they struck the bird, near\nthe tail. This is the reason, so the story goes, that the loon's legs\nare so far back that he cannot walk in an upright position on land. His\npeculiarly sad cry is a lament because he must stay in the water\npractically all the time and cannot enjoy himself on land as other good\nbirds do.\n\n[Illustration: ILONGOTS RETURNING FROM THE CHASE.]\n\nMany of the people who live along the foot of the mountain ranges,\nalthough Christianized sufficiently to contribute to the Roman Catholic\nchurches, still retain many of their aboriginal customs, especially\nthose pertaining to marriage, birth and death.\n\nBeyond the shores of Luzon, stretching northward for nearly two hundred\nmiles, is an interesting archipelago of diminutive islands known as the\nBashee Rocks, the Batan and the Babuyan Islands.[19] The natives still\nretain many of the characteristics which were observed by Dampier in his\nvisit to these islands in the seventeenth century.\n\nThe inhabitants of the Batan group are like those living on the Japanese\nisland of Botel Tobago, which is only sixty miles north of our most\nnorthern possession.[20] No missionaries or other persons had been\nallowed by the natives to land on their shores until a few Japanese\npolice arrived in 1909. They are mentioned in passing because they are a\npresent-day example of what the people in the northern islands of the\nPhilippine group were before the coming of the white men and the friars.\nTheir dwellings are very peculiar. Each family has a stone-paved court\nsurrounded by a low wall of stone. Within this enclosure they have three\nhouses: one with its sides sunk down into the ground, in order to give\nprotection from high winds; one with ordinary walls for use during\nnormal weather; and a third built on poles about ten feet above the\nground for use during the hot season. From these elevated houses a\nconstant watch is maintained for schools of fish. The people are expert\nfishermen and make excellent nets, and they have beautiful boats with\nhigh bows and sterns.\n\nIn Dampier's day the people were friendly and hospitable, as they are at\nthe present time. They valued iron more than gold, and gladly exchanged\nit for iron. The ancient diggings are still to be seen, but the \"pay\ndirt\" is of such a low grade that it is not worth while to work it. The\nprecious metal is washed out by the natives in cocoanut shells, which\ntake the place of our prospectors' \"gold pan.\" Many gold ornaments of\nattractive design are still to be found in these islands. Some of those\ntaken from graves remind one strongly of Chaldean work.\n\nThe graves of the ancient inhabitants were placed high upon the\nmountains, some near the smoking craters of the volcanoes, others on the\ncrests of the non-volcanic hills. It is supposed that the graves near\nthe smoking craters were those of persons who had a bad reputation in\nthe community, while those on the tops of the ridges contained the\nbodies of the good, and that by this method of burial the ideas of\nheaven and hell were carried out in a practical manner. The bodies were\nplaced in _ollas_, or earthenware jars, some of which had a high glaze\nand were profusely ornamented. The corpse was inserted into the jar in a\nsitting position, and the orifice was sealed by placing an inverted olla\nover the mouth of the first. These jars were then placed on end and a\nsmall pyramid of stones built around them, on the top of which a little\ntree was planted. A number of these graves ranged around the edge of a\nsmoking sulphur crater are an uncanny sight, which the natives take good\ncare to avoid.\n\nThe women of the Batan Islands, when walking or working out of doors,\nwear a distinctive headdress, consisting of a long grass hood, which\nstretches from the forehead to below the hips. It protects the head and\nback from the sun, wind and rain, so that it is worn at all times and in\nall seasons. It is one of the most original and useful of all primitive\ngarments.\n\nDuring the dry season but little rain falls in these islands, and as\nthere are few streams or springs, every means is employed to catch\nthe least drop. Even the trees in the yards have pieces of rattan\ntwisted around their trunks and larger branches, to make the water drop\noff into earthen jars.\n\n[Illustration: WOMAN OF THE BATAN ISLANDS WITH GRASS HOOD.]\n\nDuring the autumn migration of hawks and eagles from the north, men are\nstationed on the thatched roofs of the high dwellings to seize the birds\nby the feet as soon as they alight. Great numbers are caught in this\nmanner every year and form quite an element of the food supply.\n\nMany of the islands are excellent places for the production of cattle.\nItbayat Island, unique because its shores are higher than the interior,\nhas many thousand head of excellent cattle. The coast is so precipitous\nthat when they are exported they have to be lowered to the water's edge\nby means of a block and tackle, as at Tangier. They then have to swim\nout to the waiting ship, where they are hoisted by their horns to the\ndeck.\n\nAnother of the cattle islands is called Dalupiri. This beautiful spot\nwas given in its entirety to Aldecoa and Company of Manila by the\nSpanish government. In fact, when the United States first took\npossession of the Philippines, this company claimed sovereignty over the\nisland, but this, of course, was not recognized by the United States\nGovernment. The cattle that are pastured here are a cross between the\nblack Spanish bulls of fighting lineage and the humped cattle of India.\nGreat care is taken that the stock be well kept up, and for this purpose\nthere is a constant weeding out of undesirables. The method in which\nthis is done is both interesting and very exciting. The cattle roam at\nwill and are very wild and hard to approach; as a result they have to be\nhunted with great care. About twenty men are employed in their capture,\nall of whom are mounted on hardy little horses. Four of them are\nlassoers and the rest huntsmen. The lassos are nooses attached to the\nends of bamboo poles about twelve feet long. The rope from the noose, to\nthe length of about twenty-five feet, is coiled around the bamboo pole\nand tied to it four feet from the lower end. When the lasso is thrown\nover an animal's head the pole is dropped by the rider, the rope unwinds\nand drags the pole along the ground, until it catches on a rock or a\nbush and stops the mad career of the animal.\n\n\"We started out early one morning,\" Major Mitchell writes me, \"to cut\nseveral young bulls out of a herd of about five hundred cattle. Led by\nthe manager of the island, we galloped over the rough surface of the\ncoral-bound hilltops and through deep, waving grass until one of the\nhuntsmen signaled that the herd was in sight. A careful inspection was\nmade of the herd with a telescope, and the animals for capture were\nselected and carefully pointed out to the lassoers, who immediately took\nup their posts in concealment beside a little plain. The huntsmen then\nproceeded under cover to points around the herd which would enable them\nto drive the cattle on to the little plain where the lassoers could get\nin their work. After a wait of about a half hour, the horn of the chief\nhuntsman pealed forth and was answered by the yells of his companions;\nthe herd, unable to go in another direction, dashed for the little\nplain, followed by its pursuers. Crouching behind some low bushes the\nlassoers waited until the cattle, now in full stampede, had come within\nfifty yards, when in a twinkling they dashed into the midst of the\ngalloping herd.\n\n\"After a terrific race one lasso held true on a fine young bull, while\nthe rest scampered off into the ravines and water courses. The dragging\nbamboo pole soon brought him to a stop, and after several charges at his\ncaptors, two more lassos were placed on him, and he was securely\nfastened and dragged to a tree, against which his head was tied. A\nlittle saw was produced from somewhere, and his gallant horns were cut\noff short. An old, sedate carabao, who seemed to be perfectly at home,\nmade his appearance, the young bull was tied to the carabao's harness\nand towed off toward the corral. At first he tried frantically to gore\nthe carabao, but as his horns had been removed no harm resulted. The\ncarabao did not mind it in the least but continued tranquilly on his\nway. Three more bulls were captured on that day; each furnished\nexceedingly fast and interesting sport. I have seen mounted work of a\ngreat many kinds, such as pig sticking, stag hunting, and hunting of\nmany kinds of game, including our own fox hunting and polo, but never\nhave I seen any mounted work which required more dash, nerve, good\njudgment and endurance than that displayed by these herdsmen of the\nnorthern islands.\"\n\nAlthough these islands are bounded on the north by the Balintan Channel,\nthrough which some of the shipping passes from America to the southern\npart of China, they are seldom visited. This is because, as I have said\nbefore, there are no ports, not even good anchorages. During the typhoon\nseason they are exposed to the full force of these great hurricanes,\nwhile the waters are infested with hidden rocks and coral ledges. The\nU. S. cruiser _Charleston_ ran aground on a coral reef east of the\nisland of Camaguin in 1900 and sank immediately. During the\nRusso-Japanese war the fleet of the Russian Admiral Rojesvenski passed\non either side of Batan Island. The Japanese had observers on the summit\nof Mt. Iraya on this island, who are supposed to have signaled by\nheliograph to Mt. Morrison in Formosa of the coming of the fleet. The\ngreat armada could be seen from this mountain for more than one hundred\nmiles.\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER VII\n\nAMONG THE HEAD-HUNTERS\n\n\nWhen the Americans first came to the Philippines, most of the mountain\ncountry could be reached only on foot over dangerous trails. Very large\ntracts were unexplored, and the head-hunting tribes, who are found\nnowhere but in this northern part of Luzon, pillaged the neighbouring\ntowns. A state of order has now been established, except in parts of\nKalinga and Apayao.\n\nThe Mountain Province, the home of the head-hunters, includes the\nsub-provinces of Benguet, Lepanto, Amburayan, Bontoc, Ifugao, Kalinga\nand Apayao. The officers of the provinces are a governor, a\nsecretary-treasurer, a supervisor in charge of the road and trail work\nand the construction of public buildings, and seven lieutenant\ngovernors. All these officers are appointed by the governor general.\nThey live on horseback, undergo great hardships and also take great\nrisks.\n\nThe manners and customs of these head-hunting tribes differ somewhat.\nEach one, for instance, has a different mode of treating the captured\nhead when it is brought in, but all celebrate a successful hunt with a\nca\u00f1ao, or festival. The Ifugaos place the head upon a stake and hold\nweird ceremonial dances around it, followed by speech making and the\ndrinking of _bubud_, as they call their wine; afterward the skull of the\nvictim is utilized as a household ornament. Venison and chicken are\nserved at such feasts and the large fruit-eating bats, which are\nconsidered delicacies. If one of the tribe has been so unfortunate as to\nhave his head taken, they berate the spirit at the funeral, \"asking him\nwhy he had been careless enough to get himself killed.\"\n\nThe most picturesque of the head-hunting tribes that my husband saw were\nthe Kalingas, who are different from all other natives of Luzon. It is\nsaid that the Spaniards took fifteen hundred Moros into this part of the\ncountry more than a hundred years ago, so they may have founded this\ntribe. At all events, the Kalingas are superbly developed, tall and\nslight, some of the men having handsome and almost classical features.\n\nNeither the men nor the women cut the hair, which, in the case of the\nmen, is banged in front and tied up with rags behind, some wearing nets\nto keep it out of their eyes. Although the women have abundant hair they\nuse \"switches,\" into which they stick beautiful feathers. The men also\ndecorate themselves in the same way. On the back of the head they often\nwear little caps woven of beautifully stained rattan and covered with\nagate beads, and these are used as pockets in which small articles are\ncarried. Great holes are pierced in the lobes of their ears, into which\nare thrust wooden ear plugs, with tufts of red and yellow worsted.\nAlmost every Kalinga woman wears a pair of heavy brass ear ornaments and\nsometimes a solid piece of mother-of-pearl cut like a figure eight.\n\nThe Kalingas are particularly warlike, their very name meaning \"enemy\"\nor \"stranger,\" and endeavours to bring them under government control\nwere begun only a few years ago. There are still some _rancherias_ which\nthe lieutenant governor has not yet visited, as it seemed best to wait\nand bring the people to terms by peaceful means.\n\nWhile we were enjoying ourselves at Baguio, the Secretary of War,\nGovernor Forbes, Secretary Worcester, General Edwards, and my husband\nstarted north into the mountains to see some of the strange tribes that\nwere gathering from far and wide to meet the great _Apo_, or chief, as\nthey called Secretary Dickinson. I give the account of the trip in my\nhusband's own words:\n\nOn Saturday night, July 31st, after the Assembly baile, we motored to\nthe docks and went aboard the transport _Crook_ for the trip northward.\nWe were made very comfortable on this big transport, with deck cabins,\nbut we all slept on the open deck by preference and had a pleasant run\ntill in the morning we were entering Subig Bay, a splendid vast harbour\nbetween great mountains, the narrow entrance guarded by Isola Grande.\nHere we landed and visited the batteries, and although it was a small\nisland it was a stewing hot walk about it--especially as the Secretary\nsets a great pace--till a torrential shower came up and drove us to the\ncommanding officer's house, where we had a bite of breakfast--and all\nthe breakfasts at the posts which we have visited have been so good!\n\nGeneral Duvall had come up from Manila on his yacht _Aguila_, and on\nboard of her we crossed the bay to Olongapo, where there is the present\nnaval station. The great hulk of the famous floating dock _Dewey_ was\nlooming up there, just floated again after her mysterious sinking\nwhich, even now, they do not seem to be able to explain.\n\nThe guard was out with the band, and the honours were paid and the\nmarines paraded, but soon another severe tropical storm broke, and drove\nsome of us back to the ship while the others went on to another\nbreakfast at the Officers' Club. This storm suggested a typhoon, but\nthere had been no warning from the Jesuit observatory at Manila, and so\nwe rejoined the _Crook_ out by Isola Grande and went to sea without\nfear.\n\nThis is the rainy and typhoon season but the warnings of severe storms\nare so carefully given that they have lost their terrors now-a-days; and\nthis year, so far, there hasn't been a disturbance, much to our comfort,\nas it has permitted the carrying out of all our plans. It is a most\nunusual thing for such good weather to continue. The hot season is over,\nand this is called the intermediate, but it is the time of rains on this\ncoast, the seasons differing slightly on the different coasts and in the\ndifferent islands. So all that night we cruised up the coast through\nshowers of rain and lightning, passing by Bolinao Light, which we had\nfirst sighted as we approached the Philippines.\n\nBefore daylight we stopped off Tagudin, and through the darkness could\nbe seen the dim shadow of land and mountains, and a light burning on the\nbeach as a beacon. With dawn we saw a wonderful tropical shore develop\nbefore us, of low land fringed with palm, surrounded by beautiful\nmountain ranges, a tiny village on the beach, and a crowd of people\ngathered together. Soon a surf-boat put out and brought aboard the\ngovernors of the nearby provinces--Early and Gallman, brave, ready men,\nwho have taken these wild people in hand and become demi-gods among\nthem--and after a bite of breakfast we were all taken ashore through the\nsurf, very handily, and the Secretary was welcomed by a native band and\nthe chief men of the neighbourhood and crowds of half naked natives.\n\nThe Ilocanos of the northwest coast of Luzon are a fine, kindly race,\nbut there had also come down from the interior a lot of small brown men\nto pack in our baggage, Bontoc Igorots, head-hunters and dog-eaters, of\nwhom we were to see more in their own country. These little fellows at\nfirst seemed like dwarfs; but soon after, as we saw them better, they\nproved small but well formed and well nourished, strong, gentle little\npeople. They ran forward and seized our packages and disappeared down\nthe trail in a wild, willing manner. Off they trotted while we were\npacked into carromatos, dragged by weedy, diminutive native horses,\nwhich are wonderfully powerful for their size. We went, after greeting\nthe people, off down the trail, through the outskirts of Tagudin (we\ndidn't go into the town, which was somewhat to one side, as there had\nbeen some cholera there), with its nipa houses of plaited grass, perched\nup above the ground, many decorated in honour of the occasion. We\nrattled along an excellent road (for we have certainly done wonders in\nroad-building here), past paddy fields, where the slow carabao grazed\nwith little children perched on their backs, past troops of natives,\nwith their loads, standing alongside.\n\nGovernor General Forbes had made the most wonderful preparations for the\ntrip. It was the first time that any American officials (only Insular\nofficials previously) had gone in to these wild people, and of course\nthe Secretary is the highest in rank that can visit the Islands since he\nis the one through whom the President governs the Philippines and the\nPresident can never come. The trip was unique and all the arrangements\nwere extraordinary. For a new trail had been planned into the mountains\nbut was not due to be done for eight months, and yet thousands of these\nwild men had been called in and helped to finish the road so much the\nmore quickly (for we were the first party to pass over it, and some of\nthe bridges had only been finished the night before we passed), eagerly\nand willingly, when they were told that the great Apo was coming in to\nvisit them. Forbes had sent to Hongkong for some rick'shaws and had had\nmen trained to pull and push them, but these had not stood the test well\nand we didn't have the need or the chance to use them; he also had had\npalanquin chairs brought over from China and men taught in a way to\ncarry them, and these we did use on some of the steep descents. But we\nrode horses, excellent ones, from Forbes's own stable, almost all the\nway.\n\nEvery three kilometers, companies of Igorots and Ifugaos were stationed\nto act as _cargadores_ and rush along the baggage by relays, and this\nthey did with shouts and cheers as quickly as we traveled. Tiffin and\nbreakfasts had been prepared all along the way. Every eventuality had\nbeen anticipated, and it was really too well done, for it made our\ntraveling seem so easy that we had to think hard to realize into what\nout-of-the-way places we were going. A few days before it would have\nbeen necessary to work our way over the perpendicular old trails, with\ndifficulty finding bearers for our packs, and we would have been\ncompelled to carry our own food, a severe trip and a hard undertaking.\nWe went in absolutely unarmed and without escort, and yet nearly every\nnative that we saw, after we reached the hills, carried his spear and\nhead ax; but there wasn't a suggestion of danger. People were brought\ntogether on this occasion from different tribes who two years ago would\nhave killed each other at sight, and yet to-day were dancing with each\nother.\n\nWe were accompanied by the governors of the sub-provinces as we passed\nthrough them, and an unarmed orderly and Sergeant Doyle, who had charge\nof Governor Forbes's horses, and generally by a shouting horde of\nnatives. The Secretary proved a wonder; well mounted, as he was, he led\non at a great pace, till it seemed a sort of endurance test. I was more\nthan pleased to find that I stood it as I did, for we traveled four days\nout of the five for forty miles a day, and rode most of it a-horseback.\nI came out finally in much better form than when I went in.\n\nAnd so, from the beach where we landed, the carromatos carried us across\nthe low coast plain, over new bridges on which the inscriptions stated\nthat they had been finished for the passage of the Secretary and his\nparty, and under triumphal arches made of bamboo which welcomed him; all\nthe natives whom we passed saluted, and many wished to shake hands or\nonly touch the hand as we passed, till we came into the foothills, and\nover them into a little village of nipa huts among the bamboo and\ntropical trees, where we found our horses waiting. Here we mounted and\nstarted off at a good pace over the well built road that trailed around\ncliff and crag as we worked into the mountains, a procession, a\ncavalcade, winding in and out. We traveled along the valley of a river,\nthat later became a gorge with steep cliffs and precipitous sides; all\nthe natives were out to greet the Secretary; and finally we came to a\ntiny village where we had a drink of refreshing cocoanut water, all the\npeople standing about or hanging out of the windows of the simple\nhouses, which looked very clean and neat. We trailed on along the narrow\nroad, cut into the rock in many places, really a remarkable road, and up\nthe gorge with the rushing river below us. The mountains rose high and\nopened up in lovely velvety greens, and shaded away into the blues of\ndistance. We stopped at a little native rest house, above a ford in the\nriver, where we found a luncheon prepared for us, but it was a hurried\nluncheon, and on we went climbing a winding trail that zigzagged up the\nsteep mountainside, through tropical tangle of bamboo and fern and great\noverhanging trees with trailing parasites--the ghost tree, the hard\nwoods, and some with a beautiful mauve flower at the top that even Mr.\nWorcester couldn't tell me the name of (he said he had been so busy\ninventing names for the birds that he hadn't had time yet to find names\nfor trees). And below the views opened up wider and more splendid, and\nrange on range of mountains rose above each other, while the precipices\ngrew deeper and more terrifying.\n\nAnd suddenly, as we came to a turn in the trail, there appeared above us\na most picturesque sight against the skyline, some Ifugao warriors,\nlithe, beautifully formed men, whose small size was lost in their\nsymmetry, with spears in their hands, turbans of blue wrapped about\ntheir heads, and loin cloths of blue with touches of red and yellow in\ntheir streaming ends that hung like an apron before and like a tail\nbehind; their handsome brown bodies like mahogany. They had belts made\nof round shells from which hung their bolos. These were the head men of\na company of Ifugaos who had come this far to greet the party and they\nstood so gracefully on the point above us; and around the turn we found\nthe rest of the band, stunning looking fellows, standing at attention in\nline behind their lances, which were stuck in a row in the ground. Here\nwe had another tiffin, while these warriors seized and scampered off\nwith our luggage.\n\nFrom this time on, as we traveled, we found reliefs of these picturesque\npeople, waiting their turn at carrying, and then all would join in the\nprocession, and shouting a cheer like American collegians, their war\ncry, they would rush on and frighten us to death with the risk of going\nover the steep places. Away off in the distance, re\u00ebchoing through the\nvalleys, we could hear the cheers and cries, very musical, of others of\nour party as they traveled along. Soon we began to be greeted by the\ntom-toms of natives who had come out to honour the Secretary, and by\ntheir singing as we approached, and then they would dance round in a\nstrange way as we passed on.\n\nThe Ifugaos had come to meet the Secretary from several days' journey\naway, mostly through Bontoc Igorot country, all armed, and yet there\nhadn't been a sign of trouble. And these Ifugaos, who two years ago were\nwild head-hunters, have been brought into wonderful control by their\ngovernor, Gallman. There are some one hundred and twenty thousand of\nthese picturesque people, among whom head-hunting is now nearly stamped\nout; though there are sporadic cases doubtless. These little savages,\ntoo, appear most gentle and tractable, most willing and laughing, in the\nrough tumbling of the trail; and they have proved very clever, for they\nwere the builders of the roads over which we traveled (we were told that\nthey could drill rock better than Americans, on a few months' practice,\nand that they have sat for a few days and watched Japanese bricklayers\nset brick, and then done it as well as the Japanese). But indeed their\n_sementeras_--their paddy fields--their terracing, which they have\npractised for hundreds of years, is the most wonderful in the world, and\nthere is nothing even in Japan to compare with their work of this kind.\nTheir great game of head-hunting has taught them cleverness, and they\nare full of snap and go.\n\nThe Ifugao is a great talker and has all the gestures of an orator. When\nhe begins a speech he first gives a long call to attract attention, then\nclimbs a stand fifteen feet high by means of a ladder. He generally\nbegins his remarks by stating that he is a very rich man, and goes on\nto praise himself and his tribe, and at the end of his harangue he often\nhimself leads off in the applause by loudly clapping his hands. He has\nbecome a fine rifleman and is a fearless fighter. In clout, coat and\ncap, and a belt of ammunition, with legs bare, he travels incredible\ndistances and makes a good constabulary soldier. The Governor General is\nanxious to form them into a militia, but they lose their grip, we were\ntold, when they are taken down from the hills to the plain.\n\n[Illustration: CONSTABULARY SOLDIERS.]\n\nAnd so we went on up to over four thousand feet, to where the pass broke\nthrough the mountain, and there before us was a vast valley with a\nsplendid plain beyond, and in the middle of it, on a prominence, we\ncould see Cervantes, where we were to stop our first night. It seemed so\nnear and yet proved many miles away as we traced our way down the steep\ncoasts of the valley and the view of the plain below widened and the\nranges of mountains beyond rose into finer heights. We twisted and\ntrailed zigzag down the pine-clad slopes, for the change of vegetation\n(due to the mountain range, which divided a different climate on either\nside of it) in passing over the ridge had been remarkable, and though we\nhad seen rare orchids and begonias as we mounted, we descended from the\nsame height through pine and pasture.\n\nWhen finally we reached the plateau and had crossed a river bed we were\nmet by the people of the village of Cervantes--many girls in gay dress\nriding astride on their midget ponies, and men and boys on their rugged\nlittle mounts. These escorted the party under the triumphal arches into\nthe grass streets of the pretty village, where the simple public\nbuildings were decorated, and the local band played, till we finally\nwere taken to the houses where we were to spend the night, the Secretary\nand the Governor and Clark and myself going to the Lieutenant\nGovernor's. He was married to a Filipina wife. And here I must say that\nwe met several of these Filipina wives of white men, and they had most\nperfect manners and self possession and real grace (and this one was a\ngood cook). The house was a best class native house and more comfortable\nthan we had anticipated, though there were sounds and smells that rather\ndisturbed us. There was a reception and baile at the municipal building\nin the evening, where we had to go and dance a rigodon, each partnered\noff with some dainty little Filipina lady. And then we did hurry home to\nrest, for we had been up since half after four that morning and were to\nstart next morning a little after five.\n\nThe next day's trail was very fine, for we started off over a river\nwhich we crossed on a flying bridge, a swinging car on a cable, while\nthe horses were forded; and then we had splendid but slow climbing up\nthe gorge of one river after another, coasting the mountainside, where\nwe could see the mark of the trail many miles ahead above us and part of\nour procession trailing along in single file or rushing along with\ndistant shout, as the little willing native cargadores carried their\nloads up and up. Above us rose Mount Data, with its mysterious waterfall\nthat seems to come right out of its peak, and clouds circled about us,\nand below the valleys streaked away into the distance and the ranges\nrose higher and higher, and the play of light and shadow was beautiful\non the greens and grays and browns and blues of the distances. We began\nto see rancherias, the native villages, perched up on the hills, the\nthatched roofs like haystacks, with blue smoke at times coming through;\nand paddy fields began to climb the upper valleys in their terraces,\nwith the pale green rice, and fringes of the banana palm of which the\nhemp is made. In places the red croton was planted on the terraces for\nluck, and in the ravines which we crossed there were cascading falls\nand pools.\n\nWe rose higher and higher over another range, and at the tip-top of the\ntrail another group of Igorots were dancing and playing their tom-toms\nas we passed, and rushed alongside to touch fingers. Soon we passed\nthrough a village built in a stony gorge where a river ran down. The\nhouses consisted of conical thatched roofs supported on four wooden\npiers with ladders leading up into the roofs where the people lived. The\nfoundations were terraced in stone and the paths were stone-terrace, and\nit all looked very neat and clean. On our way back we stopped for tiffin\nat this same village and had the women come and show us how they weave,\nfor it was a place famed for its weaving. This time our tiffin was\nfarther on, at a rest-house with a splendid view, and it had been laid\nout so prettily with temporary flower beds and bamboo arches. The\nBelgian priest from a town nearby had come to join us at luncheon, and\nalthough he spoke no English I had a pleasant time with him in French,\nfor he proved to be a sort of relative of our cousins the de Buisserets;\nhis name was Padre Sepulchre, one of a band of Belgians belonging to no\norder but educated highly for missionary priesthood, who have been\nsent out, since our occupation, by the Pope, and many of whom are rich\nand gentlemen born. This one had already in two years spent some twenty\nthousand dollars gold of his own money in his town. Another such\nmissionary we met at Bontoc, and several at other places, and all are\nsaid to do good work.\n\n[Illustration: RICE TERRACES.]\n\nWe started off after tiffin on the long trail that wound down the gorge\nof El Chico de Cagayan River, on our way to Bontoc. Villages became more\nnumerous and were very picturesque, on the spurs of mountain above the\nriver, or embowered in coffee trees, where the mountain coasts were\npatched with pineapple plantations. And the paddy fields grew in terrace\nafter terrace, most splendid engineering by these primitive people,\nrising above each other up into the clouds, fitting into the contours of\nthe mountainsides, the terrace walls overgrown with green, and the pale\ngreen paddy within, and little cascades carrying the water down from\nterrace to terrace, most lovely, like some great hanging gardens; little\nbrown people were stooping at work in them, all naked, but with their\nclothes covered by leaves and balanced on their heads, to be kept dry;\nfor there were showers and cloud effects that added to the beauty of\nthe panorama as we passed. The terraces add beauty and interest to the\neye by their succession of levels, and as we traveled into the country\nthey became more frequent and complete. Curiously enough, the Bontoc\nIgorots have forest laws and a forest service of their own. The\nmountainsides of their rough country are sparsely timbered with pine,\nwhich has grown very scarce near some of the larger settlements. Forests\nin the vicinity of such settlements are divided up into small private\nholdings claimed by individuals, whose right thereto is recognized by\nthe other members of the tribe. In many places it is forbidden to cut\ntrees until they have reached a large size, although the lower branches\nare constantly trimmed off and used for firewood. Forest fires are kept\ndown to facilitate reforestation, and young trees are planted. Such\nforesight on the part of a primitive people is certainly unusual.\n\nSo we trailed all day, till toward half after five we turned a point and\ncame to Bontoc, after a procession of natives had come streaming out\nsome miles up the gorge to meet the party. Bontoc is the capital of the\nMountain Province and was the goal of our journey.\n\nThe native town is very dirty and is acknowledged to be one of the worst\nof the native villages; in the more savage places the towns are said\nto be cleaner. We walked through it, where the terraced stone walks pass\nby stone pits where the pigs wallow, and by thatched houses which have\nno exit for the smoke and so are filthy and in dreadful condition. We\nsaw the communal shacks in which the unmarried and widowed members live\nwith their peculiar rights, and the sties where the old men resort to\ntalk, and we stood outside the wretched place where the skulls are kept,\nand some heads, all black and smoked, were brought out in a basket from\nthe secret recesses for us to see.\n\n[Illustration: IFUGAO COUPLE.]\n\nSome of these Bontoc Igorots are skilful smiths, and they make excellent\nearthen pots and clay pipes. They have interesting athletic sports of\ntheir own and take to those of the Americans. They are especially fond\nof beads, which are wound in their hair or hung about the neck, and\ngreatly value large white stones, caring little for agates, so highly\nprized by the Kalingas.\n\nInto Bontoc for this great occasion had been brought warriors and women\nfrom the Kalingas and Ifugaos, with Igorots from about, some from a\ndistance of several days' travel; and for the first time these warring\ntribes, who only two years before were taking each other's heads, came\npeacefully together, and watched each other with as much interest as\nthey watched us.\n\nThe adventures of the American lieutenant governors read like romances,\nand here they were before us with their following: the Kalingas more\ndangerous and warlike than the Ifugaos, and the Ifugaos more picturesque\nand interesting than the Igorots, and all together making a\nnever-to-be-forgotten scene.\n\nThere were, too, several small companies of native constabulary, for\nthese hill men make splendid soldiers and take great pride in their arms\nand uniform, and have proved loyal to the death. All the different\ntribes and the constabulary had turned out to receive the Secretary, and\nit was a vociferous and noisy yelling crowd that streamed about in\nirregular procession. We were, some of us, taken to a government house\nthat was comfortable, and took our meals at a club which the officials\nhave built and which is quite pathetically complete, and that evening we\ndid little before turning in--the first evening since we had landed in\nthe Islands when we were able to turn in at a reasonable hour with the\nprospect of sleeping as late as we pleased next day.\n\nNext day was a day of festivities, a ca\u00f1ao, for from morning till night\nthere was dancing by these fantastic peoples, whom so few white men\nhave ever seen. We were waked early enough, alas! by the _ganzas_--the\ntom-toms--and there were parades of the different tribes through the\ntown. A small grandstand had been erected in the plaza, and there we\nstood with the Secretary and the few white teachers and the missionaries\nfrom about, while the procession was reviewed.\n\nThe constabulary came first, dressed only in loin cloths of different\ncolours below the waist, but with the regulation khaki uniform blouse\nand cap above. They are officered by Americans and a few natives, and\nare most military, notwithstanding the strange appearance of their bare\nlegs. Some companies were very well drilled, and they gave exhibitions\nof different manuals as well as any regular white soldiers might have\ndone.\n\nThe wild Kalingas came past next, most picturesque, with their feather\nheaddresses of red and yellow, and spears and head axes, and their\nbrightly coloured loin cloths, and the women in scant but gay garments,\nand not at all ashamed in their nakedness. And these gave their\ncharacteristic dances, with outstretched arms, hopping and prancing\nabout in a circle, all the time looking down into the center of the\ncircle about which they dance (where the head of the decapitated is\nsupposed to be). There were innumerable tom-toms, which they play with\nvariations, so as to make much rhythm and movement, and the women joined\nin the dancing, more moderately, some with big cigars in their mouths\nand looking extremely indifferent. Then, when they danced in a circle,\nsome would prance into the center with shield and ax and pretend attacks\nupon each other, and leap about and grow excited; and this sort of thing\nthey kept up all day (and part of the night, too) off and on.[21]\n\n[Illustration: IFUGAO HEAD DANCE.]\n\nThe Ifugaos followed and passed by, and gave their dances, which are the\nsame with a difference, but each was ended with a mighty shout, after\nwhich one of the head men would step forward and deliver a rattling\nspeech, and they greeted the Secretary variously but cordially--for they\nlike our American rule, indeed, they have never had any other, for the\nSpaniards never attempted to come in and control them.\n\nThen the Bontoc Igorots followed and gave exhibitions with noisy\ndemonstrations, and two _presidentes_, or chiefs, who six months before\nwere trying to kill each other, danced and pranced together, while the\ntom-toms beat and others hopped and circled round. Most of the men were\ntattooed, each tribe in its own peculiar manner, certain marks\nindicating that their bearer had killed his man and taken a head--some\nbore marks of many heads; one man dancing was known to have taken\nseventeen. Many of the women, too, were tattooed with a feather-like\npattern.\n\nAnd so the dances went on. In some the participants postured fighting\nand then represented wounded men; in others all were head men together;\nsome were rapid in motion, some slow, but all had real grace, that grace\nof the wild man; and all were finely formed and well-nourished and\nhealthy looking. When the dancing was over, the groups of savages in\ntheir fantastic dress squatting around the plaza behind their spears\nstuck in the ground, with bolo and head-ax and tom-tom, and the women\nstanding about, made a wonderful scene.\n\nAfter the dances and speeches the head men came up to the Secretary and\nhanded him weapons as gifts, sometimes their own, with which they had\noften fought. Mr. Dickinson, of course, received the chiefs and the head\nmen and women afterward, and presented them with shells and blankets and\nplumes in return. The bartering among them was rather amusing, as they\ntried to exchange what they had received and didn't want.\n\n[Illustration: WEAPONS OF THE WILD TRIBES.]\n\nAt the club in the evening of the second day, they gave us a remarkable\ndinner; all the Americans in the district were present; and the few\nFilipinos entertained us at a baile, and so our day was finished.\n\nWe started out at daylight next morning and hiked back by the same\ntrail; but the views seemed finer in their repetition than even when we\nfirst passed through them. We had had most superb weather, although it\nwas the rainy season, and had enjoyed the grand panoramas to the full;\nbut the last afternoon it came on to pour down in torrents, which we\nenjoyed too as an experience, for we came safely to Tagudin, where the\npeople and the band joined in sending us off, as they had received us,\nand we were safely taken out through quite a heavy surf and put on board\nthe Coast Guard boat _Negros_, and had a glass with ice in it again.\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER VIII\n\nINSPECTING WITH THE SECRETARY OF WAR\n\n\nAugust thirteenth is a holiday in the Philippine Islands, for it is\n\"Occupation Day,\" the anniversary of the fall of Manila and its\noccupation by the American army. The special event is a \"camp fire\" in\nthe evening at the theater, when the Philippine war veterans gather\ntogether and have addresses and refreshments. After a dinner with Tom\nAnderson at the Army and Navy Club, with its picturesque quarters in an\nold palace, intramuros, we attended this performance, sitting in the\nGovernor's box and listening to the happy self-laudation of the\n\"veterans,\" who all wore the blue shirt and khaki of war times.\n\nIt was toward midnight when we finally left and went out to our vessel,\nfor we were off for a trip among the southern islands on the cable\nsteamer _Rizal_. We sailed by the light of a full moon, and for a while\nhad a merry bobbery of it outside, after passing Corregidor. Soon,\nthough, we turned a point and had the monsoon following. In the morning\nwe woke to find ourselves steaming past the fine scenery of southern\nLuzon, with the volcano of Taal in the distance. Several times during\nthe Spanish occupation this volcano dealt death and destruction, and as\nlate as 1911 it claimed many victims.\n\nOur first landing place was at Kotta, on Luzon, where we started ashore\nin a small launch. It was a beautiful river of palms, but our boat got\nstuck in the mud and we were delayed. We finally reached the shore and\nwere put into automobiles. Then it was that I began to feel as if I had\njoined a circus parade. Escorted by bands and soldiers, our motors moved\nslowly along the streets. Everywhere people lined the way, while the\nwindows of the houses fairly dripped with heads.\n\nWe passed many little villages that looked prosperous, and processions\nof carts, showing that the people were active and busy. The road ran\nover picturesque bridges, for part of it was an old Spanish trail\nrejuvenated. At all the villages they had made preparations to receive\nthe Secretary, bands were out, the children stood by the roadside and\nwaved, and the women stood in rows to greet us. The municipal buildings\nwere decorated, the piazzas hung with festoons and lanterns. They all\nwanted to give us _comida_ and let off speeches, but it was impossible\nto live through such hospitalities, so we only halted at each place a\nfew minutes to shake hands.\n\nThe stop for the night was Lucena, the home of Mr. Quezon, Philippine\nCommissioner to the United States Congress. He traveled with us, and we\nfound him very attractive. The general opinion was that Quezon, Legarda,\nand Osme\u00f1a were \"playing to the gallery\" for political capital, but at\nthe same time they were supporting our administration. It is a good deal\nlike some of our friends in Congress, who make speeches along lines that\nthey know are absolutely untenable.\n\nAfter climbing into a bandstand, where we stood surrounded by people\npeering up at us, flowery speeches began, demanding independence. They\nwere the first of the kind we had heard. The Filipinos are good speakers\nand keen politicians. Among other remarks, an orator said: \"Many things\noccur to my mind, each of which is important, but among them there is\none which constitutes a fundamental question for the Filipinos and the\nAmericans. It is a question that interests equally the people of the\nUnited States and the people of the Philippine Islands. It is a question\nof life or death for our people, and it is a question also of justice,\nfor the people of the United States. The fundamental question is\nevidently, gentlemen, the question of a political finality of my\ncountry....\n\n\"We are very grateful for your visit, Mr. Secretary, and we hope that\nthe joy that we felt on your arrival may not be clouded, that it may not\nbe tempered, but rather that it shall be heightened, by seeing in you a\ntrue interpretation of the desires of the Philippine people, hoping that\non your return to the United States after your visit to the Philippine\nIslands, you will tell the truth as regards the aspirations of the\nPhilippine people.\"\n\nIn answering, the Secretary talked about the different subjects of\ninterest, such as the agricultural bank, land titles, etc. He continued:\n\n\"It is very gratifying to me, coming from America, and representing the\nGovernment in the position in which I stand, to hear such testimonials\nas you have given in regard to the men that America has sent to assist\nyou in advancing your interests.... America has been careful to send men\nin whom confidence can be reposed according to their previous character;\nand I want to say to you further, that America has given you here just\nas good government as she has given to her people at home.[22] In all\nestablished governments fair and just criticism is welcome and I shall\nnot therefore bear any spirit that would be resentful of any just\ncriticism.\n\n\"I shall be very glad while I am here to meet those who have the real\nwelfare of the Islands at heart and the development of this country. I\nhave many things to do and the time is comparatively short, but I shall\nendeavour so to conduct affairs as to be able to give audience to all\nlaw-abiding people who may desire to make any representations to me. I\nshall be at convenient periods here where I shall be accessible, and any\ncommunications which are addressed to me personally will receive proper\nconsideration. Now that states in a general way the object of my visit\nand the disposition that I propose to make of my time while here.\nGeneral Edwards, who is with me, as you know, is the Chief of the\nInsular Bureau. Certainly he, more than any other man in America,\nunderstands conditions in the Philippines, and his whole time, thought\nand mind are concentrated upon the problems connected with your\nwelfare, and he is working all the time to advance your interests. His\nfamiliarity with conditions from the time of America's occupation, the\nestablishment of civil government, the settling of the various\ncommercial questions that have arisen from time to time, make him the\nmost effective champion for the Philippine interests in America, and he\nhas not hesitated in Congress whenever your interests are at stake, to\nstand up and contend for your interests with vehemence that ought to\nmake him eligible to all option as a Philippine citizen....\n\n\"You have there a brilliant representative (Mr. Quezon), who is capable\nof presenting your views and aspirations, and of enforcing your wishes\nwith the most cogent arguments of which your cause is susceptible....\n\n\"Now as to immediate independence: we Americans understand by immediate,\nright away--to-day. Do you want us to get up and leave you now--to\ndepart from your country? You would find yourselves surrounded by graver\nproblems than have hitherto confronted you, if we should do so. I don't\npositively assert, but I suggest that you yourselves pause, and think\nwhether you might not be reaching forth and grasping a fruit which, like\nthe dead sea fruit, would turn to ashes upon your lips.\"[23]\n\nIt was at Lucena that my husband and I went to Captain and Mrs. S.'s\nhouse for the night. We sat on the piazza by moonlight, among beautiful\norchids, listening to the band playing in the distance, and gossiping. I\nwas interested in the servant problem, and Mrs. S. had much to tell me\nthat was new.\n\n\"Our native servants would much rather have a pleasant 'thank you' than\na tip,\" she said; \"if a tip is offered, the chances are that it will be\nrefused, for the boys feel that they would do wrong to accept it. They\nare very keen, though, about their _aguinaldos_--presents--at Christmas.\nEvery native who has done a hand's turn for me during the year will turn\nup Christmas Day to wish me a _feliz Pasquas_, and I am expected to give\nhim a present. My whole day is for my servants and their children, who\nseem to multiply at that time. When I asked my _cochero_, 'Lucio, how\nmany _ni\u00f1os_ have you?' he answered, 'Eleven, se\u00f1ora.' 'But how many\nunder fourteen, Lucio?' 'Eleven, se\u00f1ora!' He wanted all the presents\nthat he could get,\" she laughed.\n\n\"But if they don't take tips, do they get good wages?\" I asked.\n\n\"Not according to American ideas. A Filipino boy will work for small\npay, and stay a long time, in a cheerful home atmosphere. They are good\nservants, too,\" she continued, \"if you take the trouble to train them. I\ntrained a green boy to be a good cook by taking an American cook book\nand translating it into Spanish. They have a great reverence for books,\nand that boy thought he was very scientific. I've had him many years. We\nloaned him money to build his hut near us. He was a year paying it off,\nbut he paid off every cent. Now he has four children for Christmas\ngifts. When I went away on a visit, he asked me to bring him a gold\nwatch from America. So many years with us gave him that privilege. As we\nwere gone some time I think he feared we might not return, so he wrote\nus a letter.\" Seeing my interest, she got the letter and read it to me:\n\n \"My Dear Sir Capt.:\n\n \"In accompany the great respect to you would express at the bottom.\n It is a long time since our separation and I'm hardly to forget you\n because I have had recognized you as a best master of maine. So I\n remit best regard to you and Mrs. and how you were getting along\n both, and if you wish to known my condition, why, I'm well as\n ever.\n\n \"Sir Capt. If you will need me to cook for Mrs. why I'll be with\n you as soon as I can find some money.\n\n \"Please Sir Capt.\n \"Will you answer this letter for me?\n \"Very respectfully\n \"Yours, PEDRO.\"\n\n\"On returning from the United States I took Pedro back,\" Mrs. S. went\non, \"but I found I needed extra house boys. The first who presented\nhimself was Antonio, aged seventeen. He was a very serious, hard-working\nboy, whose only other service had been a year on an inter-island\nmerchant ship. I took him at once, for servants from boats are usually\nwell trained. He turned out well, and in a few months asked if he could\nsend for his little brother to be second boy to help him. I said he\ncould, so in due time Crispin smilingly presented himself. No questions\npassed as to salary or work. He was installed on any terms that suited\nme. A few weeks later, Antonio asked if he could bring his cousin in\njust to learn the work, so that he could find a place. I consented, and\nin time came Sacarius, gentle and self-effacing, and apparently intent\non learning, and always handy and useful. Again a favour was asked, this\ntime that the father of Antonio might come as a visitor for a three\nweeks' stay. He was very old, would not eat in my house, only sleep in\nthe servants' room, so again I consented. Father must have already been\non his way, permission taken for granted, for his arrival was almost\nsimultaneous. I found him sitting in my kitchen in very new and very\nclean white clothes, the saintliest old tao, with no teeth, white hair,\nand a perpetual smile. He rose and bowed low to me, but he couldn't\nspeak Spanish or English, so called his son to him to salute me for him\nformally. I returned it and made him welcome to my house. He bade them\ntell me he had journeyed far to tell me of his gratitude for my goodness\nto his family and that he had such _confienza_ in me that he had\ninstructed his sons never to leave me. The old fellow enjoyed himself\nthoroughly, and spent so much of his son's money that Antonio shipped\nhim home in a week.\"\n\n\"Are they spoiled by living with Americans?\"\n\n\"Yes, but it shows most in their clothes. Antonio dresses almost as well\nas his master,\" laughed Mrs. S. \"But he does not attempt to work in his\nbest clothes, wearing the regulation _muchacho_ costume without\nobjection, even though some of the army officers' muchachos are allowed\nto dress like fashion plates, and clatter round the polished floors in\ntheir russet shoes. A muchacho will spend his whole month's pay for a\nsingle pair of American russet shoes. They love russet, and the shoe\nstores flourish in consequence.\"\n\n\"How about their amusements?\" I inquired.\n\n\"Whenever they can get off they go to baseball games and the movies. The\nlittle girls wear American-made store dresses now, and great bunches of\nribbon in their hair, white shoes, and silk stockings. Some families who\nin the early days had hardly a rag on their backs now own motors. I\ndon't believe you could force independence on them! The se\u00f1oritas trip\nhome from normal school with their high-heeled American pumps, and paint\nenough on their faces to qualify for Broadway. The poor children have to\nswelter in knitted socks, knitted hoods, and knitted sweaters, just\nbecause they come from America. Filipino children are wonderful,\nthough--they never cry unless they are ill. They are allowed absurd\nliberty, but they don't seem to get spoiled. The Filipina women love\nwhite children intensely; the fair skins seem to charm them, and they\nreally can't resist kissing a blond child.\"\n\nWe certainly enjoyed our stay at Lucena. Mrs. S.'s house was so clean\nand homelike, with its pretty dining room and its broad veranda, and the\nbig shower bath which felt so refreshing. We went to sleep that night\nwatching the palm leaves waving in the moonlight.\n\nIn the early morning we all got into automobiles again and ran over fine\nroads built since the American occupation. We left the China Sea and\ncrossed the island to the Pacific, climbing a wonderful tropical\nmountain, where, by the way, we nearly backed off a precipice because\nour brakes refused to work, and we frightened a horse as we whizzed on\nto Antimonan. The churches here had towers something like Chinese\npagodas, and the big lamps inside were covered with Mexican silver. All\nthese island towns have a presidente and a board of governors, called\n_consejales_, and each province has a governor.\n\nManila hemp is one of the principal products of this prosperous\nprovince, and it is chiefly used to make rope. The plant from which this\nhemp is made looks very much like a banana plant. The stalk is stripped\nand only the tough fibers are used. They employ the cocoanut a good\ndeal to make oil, which is obtained from the dried meat, called copra.\nThey had a procession of their products here at Antimonan, which was\nvery interesting.\n\nThe hemp and cigar importations were first carried on by Salem captains\nin the fifties. The great American shipping firm in those days was\nRussell, Sturgis, Oliphant and Company. The Philippines were out of the\nline of travel, however, and few people went there except for trade. In\nfact, as far as I know, only one book was written by an American about\nthe islands before the American occupation.\n\nOn the _Rizal_ next morning, when I looked out of my porthole at dawn,\nit seemed to me as if I were gazing at an exquisite Turner painting.\nMount Mayon[24] was standing there majestically, superb in its cloak of\nsilver mist, which changed to fiery red. It is the most beautiful\nmountain in the world, more perfect in outline than Fuji. Mrs. Dickinson\nwas so inspired by its beauty that she wrote a poem, a stanza of which I\ngive:\n\n \"Mount Mayon, in lonely grandeur,\n Rises from a sea of flame,\n Type of bold, aggressive manhood,\n Lifting high a famous name\n 'Bove the conflict of endeavour\n Ranging round its earthly base,\n Where heartache and failure ever\n Stand hand-clasped face to face.\"\n\n[Illustration: LANDING AT TOBACO.]\n\nOur landing at Tobaco was made in the most novel way. As the water was\nshallow and the _Rizal_ could not get into the dock, three carabaos\nhitched to a wagon waded out till only their noses could be seen; we\nstepped on to the two-wheeled cart and sat in state on chairs while we\nwiggle-waggled through the water to the shore. There we went to the town\nhall and had a banquet with many brown men and a few little brown women.\nThe governor of the province spoke, and General Bandholtz responded in\nSpanish for the Secretary, who had gone ahead to close a government coal\nmine that was not proving successful. After the banquet we had an\nenchanting automobile ride, through quaint villages at the foot of the\ngreat mountain to Albay, where a review of the scouts was held by the\nSecretary in the setting sun.\n\nWhen our party dispersed for dinner L. and I were \"farmed out\" to the\nsuperintendent of schools, Mr. Calkins. The houses built for Americans\nwere all of wood with broad piazzas, much like summer cottages at home,\nwith the hall in which we dined in the center and the bedrooms leading\noff it.\n\nSo much has been written about the schools and the wonders in education\nin the Philippines that I shall not try to enlarge on this interesting\ntheme, other than to add my tribute to the government and the teachers,\nand also to the people who are wise enough to take advantage of the\nopportunities offered. Each little Juan and Maria, with their desire to\nlearn, may soon put to shame little John and Mary, if the latter are not\ncareful.\n\n\"It has not been a fad with them, as we feared it would be,\" one of the\nteachers told me; \"they have stuck to it. Many grown-ups in the family\nmake real sacrifices to keep their juniors in school. My little Filipina\ndressmaker is educating all her sister's children and sending her\nbrother to the law school. At first, too, we feared there would only be\na desire to learn English and the higher branches, but with a very\nlittle urging they are learning domestic science and the trades, showing\nthat they have a mind for practical matters after all.\"\n\nI begged her to tell me more about the natives, since she understood the\npeople so well, and what she said is worth repeating.\n\n\"Even in his grief the Filipino is a cheerful creature,\" she began;\n\"curiously enough, too, a death in the family is an occasion for general\nand prolonged festivities. An orchestra is hired for as many days as the\nwealth of the family permits, and a banquet is spread continuously at\nwhich all are welcome, even former enemies of the deceased. Strangers\nfrom the street can come; I've often wondered if the beggars imposed on\nthis custom, but there are very few of them, and they seem to respect\nit. The music drones on day after day. Sometimes only one instrument\nwill be left, the other players going out to smoke, or eat, or rest; but\nthey reassemble from time to time and keep it going. There is always\nmuch dancing, for the natives are great dancers and were not the last to\nlearn the one-step and hesitation. Even in their heel-less slippers they\nare very graceful. Of course masses are said, for they firmly believe\nthat these will take their departed to heaven. With this belief they are\nso happy, knowing the dear one is better off in heaven than here, that\nChopin's funeral march is quickly turned into waltz time, and the\n_fiesta_ waxes merry!\n\n\"In Spanish times each district had its band, which always played at the\nchurch festivals. Each church had its patron saint, and there was\nalways a saint's day fiesta going on in some district. In the churchyard\nbooths were spread as at our country fairs. Everything from toys to all\nkinds of chance games, of which they are so fond, was sold. The band\nplayed continuously and the people came in crowds. The Americans have\ncatered to this spirit in the yearly carnival which is given every\nFebruary. This carnival is more than a fiesta, though, for it is also an\nexhibition of their produce and handiwork. Their hats have always been\nfamous, as has their needlework, and under American encouragement the\nbasket-work exhibit has become one of the finest in the world. Some hemp\nbaskets, woven in colours, look as if they were made of lustrous silk. I\ncan't say which I like best, the finest of our Alaskan Indian, or\nApache, or Filipino baskets. Their shell work is lovely, too, and their\nbuttons are coming into the world's market for the first time.\n\n\"The Filipinos are also learning at the School of Arts and Trades to\ncarve their magnificent woods most skilfully, and are making furniture\nwhich will soon be coming to the States. In the early days a few\nChinamen had the monopoly of furniture carving and making. They copied\nthe very ornate pieces brought to Manila by the Spaniards from Spain\nand France in the native mahogany called nara, and in a harder and very\nbeautiful wood called _acle_, or in a still harder one known as\n_camagon_, a native ebony. American women soon began to search the\nsecond-hand stores and pawn shops for the originals, and had them\npolished and restored at Bilibid Prison. The expense, considering, was\nsmall. A single-piece-top dining table of solid mahogany is often nearly\neight feet in diameter and two or three inches thick.\"\n\nAnother of the teachers told me something of her experiences in the\nearly days, when she went out with her father, who was one of the first\nAmerican army officers there.\n\n\"When we landed we lived in an old Spanish palace,\" she said, \"which of\ncourse we proceeded to clean. That was the first thing all Americans did\non landing. We took eleven army dump-cart loads from the palace of every\nkind of dirt conceivable. Then we began washing windows and mirrors and\nlamps, which I am sure had never been touched with water before. The\nservants were so amazed that they were of very little use. They were\nmostly Chinese, and had never seen white women work before. The sight of\nsuch energy staggered them. Just when we got things running smoothly,\nfather was called home, and our cleaned house fell to his successor's\nwife, who wept and said she had never been put in such a dirty place.\n\n\"It was after this that my real adventures began. Father McKimmon was\nopening public schools, and wanted English taught. So he went among the\narmy girls and just begged us to give up a few of our good times and do\nsome of this work. I didn't see how I could teach people when I didn't\nknow their language, but he explained how simple it would be, and we\ncould learn Spanish at the same time.\n\n\"It was fun to work with the Spanish nuns. They were so interested in\nus, and their quaint, old-fashioned methods with the children amused me\nconstantly. Arms were always folded when they rose to recite, and it was\nalways 'Servidor de usted'--at your service--before they could sit down.\nThe nuns soon became pupils of ours, too. When the Spanish prisoners\nliberated by our men from the Filipinos were brought to Manila they were\nquartered in our school for a hospital. I never saw such starved wrecks.\nMany of them--young men--had no teeth left.\n\n\"More Americans were arriving on every transport, and a most delightful\nsociety was forming of army and navy people, government officials, and\nnaval officers of every nation, in addition to the original Spanish\npopulation and the small colonies of many countries. There were parties\nof all kinds, and as we trained our cooks into our own ways we ventured\non dinner parties. I shall never forget the first dinner I went to that\nwas cooked in Spanish style. There was every kind of wine I ever heard\nof, but no water. I wanted some, but it was not to be had. My host\napologized for not having provided any, but no one dared drink the city\nsupply. We sat down to table at nine and rose at twelve, and when the\nmen joined us at one they were all much amazed that I made the move to\ngo home.\n\n\"I left Manila to visit my brother in the provinces. Traveling in those\ndays was very different from what it is now. After leaving the\nManila-Dagupan Railroad there were no motors to go up the mountain;\ninstead of that, I rode an ancient American horse till I was tired and\nburning with the sun. Then my brother put me in a bull cart, and I sat\non the floor of that till the sun was preferable to the bumping. I\narrived at four in the afternoon and was put down in an empty room with\nmy trunk and a packing box. Being a good army girl, that packing box\nhad all the elements of comfort, but first there was cleaning to be\ndone. My brother was the commanding officer in that town, his house\nbeing at the corner of the Plaza, and an outpost. So he sent me a police\nparty--that is, ten native prisoners and an American sentry; they were\narmed with brooms and buckets. I said, 'Sentry, this room is very dirty.\nThe Captain sent these men here to clean it for me.' 'Yes, mam,' said\nthe sentry. 'Well,' I told him, 'I want the ceiling cleaned first, even\nthe corners!' He turned to his gentle prisoners with 'Here, _hombres_,\nyou shinny up that pole and _limpia_ those corners!' He didn't know much\nSpanish, but limpia means clean, and is the one essential word. I soon\nunpacked my box and turned it into an organdie-draped dressing table,\nafter out of it had come all that made the room livable.\n\n\"That night I was sleeping the sleep of the very tired when I was\nawakened by a blood-curdling shout, a gun was thrown to the floor, and a\nman's voice yelled for help. I simply froze--I couldn't move hand or\nfoot. The voice was in the outpost guard room, just under my own. Of\ncourse, I was sure the whole guard was overpowered and being boloed. I\nwaited for them to come to me as I lay there. Then I heard a man's\nvoice call from an upstairs window, 'What's the matter down there?' and\nthe answer, 'Number Four had a nightmare, sir--thought there was a goat\non his bunk.' Just as I was going to sleep again I threw out my hand in\nmy restlessness, and to my horror, clasped it round a cold, shiny\nboa-constrictor. Every large house has one in the garret to keep down\nthe rats. This time I gave the scream and sprang out of bed. But no\nsnake was to be found, and I decided it must have been the bed post. But\nwhat a night that was!\"\n\nWe re\u00ebmbarked at Legaspi and sailed on to the island of Samar, which is\nin the typhoon belt. Catbalogan is a town which has been visited by very\nsevere typhoons and terrible plagues, but by very few people. It is a\nsmall place, far away and forgotten, but the island of Samar is where\nthe massacre of the Ninth Infantry occurred--the massacre at Balangiga\nby the natives in 1902. There were triumphal arches of bamboo and\nflowers, and speeches in the town hall, Governor Forbes speaking in both\nEnglish and Spanish. Afterward eight small boys and girls dressed in\nred, white and blue danced for us enchantingly the Charcca and the Jota,\nclicking their little heels and snapping their little fingers in true\nSpanish style. Delicious sweetmeats were offered on the veranda, real\nnative dishes, and we drank cocoanut milk and ate cocoanut candy,\npreserves, nuts and cakes. Two half-Chinese girls who spoke English took\nvery good care of us.\n\nAs we left we looked out over the sea to the setting sun and watched a\nlonely fisherman standing on a rock throwing his net.\n\nNext morning from the _Rizal_, we saw across a stretch of calm water the\nblue ranges of the mountains of Bohol. Native bancas glided silently\nabout, and a straw-sailed boat drifted idly round the point, where the\npicturesque gray walls of the oldest Spanish fort in the Philippines\nstood guard. Its sentinel houses at the corners were all moss grown, and\npretty pink flowers were breaking out of the crevices of the rocks.\n\nWe landed at Cebu, which is the oldest town in the Islands, and passed\ndown a street lined with ancient houses whose second stories arcaded the\nsidewalk. They were all in good condition, in spite of their age, for\nthey were built of the wonderful hard woods that last forever. In fact,\nCebu has the look of a new and prosperous place, for there have been\nfires which burnt up many of the ramshackle houses and gave a chance to\nwiden the streets and replace the old structures with permanent looking\nbuildings. The American government has done wonders in deepening the\nharbour and building a sea wall, behind which concrete warehouses are\ngoing up.\n\nThere was a scramble to a review near the barracks, then another\nscramble to a reception at the house of the colonel commanding--a very\nnice but hot occasion--and then still another scramble to the dedication\nof a really excellent schoolhouse.\n\nA young priest took us to see the famous idol, the small black infant\nChrist. We went to the convent of the Dominicans near the church, and\npassed through its pretty, unkempt court, up a staircase with treads and\nhandrail richly carved in a wood which was hard as iron, and black with\nage. It was handsome work, such as we had been looking for and hadn't\nseen before. In the sacristy, too, and the robing room, there were\nscreens and paneling with richly detailed carvings. Passing down the\ngalleries of the convent, where we could see some of the friars at work,\nwe entered the special chapel where this holy image is kept. Several\ndoors were taken off a rather gaudily gilded altar, until at last the\nlittle figure was revealed. Its back was toward the room and it had to\nbe carefully turned--a small, brown, wooden doll, all dressed in cloth\nof gold, and bejeweled like the Bambino of Rome. It is considered a most\nsacred and wonderful heaven-sent idol.[25]\n\nAs we had heard speeches by Filipinos and head hunters, I was curious to\nknow what the Chinese would have to say, and that night there was an\nopportunity to find out, for we were invited to a dinner given by the\nChinese merchants. I quote from the speech made by Mr. Alfonso Zarata Sy\nCip, which was specially interesting:\n\n\"The Chinese have traded with these Islands since long before Confucius\nand Mencius,\" said Mr. Sy Cip; \"and for centuries we have been coming\nhere and assimilating with the Filipinos, and to-day we are deeply\ninterested in the welfare of the country. The Chinese have been called a\nnation of traders, the Jews of the East, but we are more than traders.\nWe are labourers, artisans, farmers, manufacturers, and producers.\n\n\"A very large percentage of the growth and development of the commerce\nand material interests of the Islands is due to the efforts of our\ncountrymen.\n\n\"The infusion of Chinese blood has strengthened and improved the\nFilipino people.\n\n\"Chinese labour is recognized all over the world as the best cheap\nlabour in existence. Since American occupation of these Islands you have\nexcluded our labour from entering. Why? Not for the reason that it would\ntend to lower the standard of living among Filipino labourers, because\nthe standard of living among Chinese labourers in the Philippines is\nhigher than among the Filipino labourers. Hence the introduction of\nChinese labourers would tend rather to improve conditions in this\nregard. You do not exclude him for the reason that he works for lower\nwages than the labourers of the country, because, on the contrary, the\nChinese labourer in the Philippines receives higher wages than the\nnative labourer, hence the introduction of Chinese labourers would tend\nrather to improve the condition of the native labourers as far as wages\nare concerned. You do not exclude him for the reason that he will not\nbecome assimilated with the natives of the country, because centuries of\nexperience have shown that Filipinos and Chinese do assimilate and\nreadily amalgamate, and the result, as I have already said, is an\nimprovement of the Filipino people. If you are excluding Chinese\nlabourers from the Philippines because of political reasons then I\nconfess such reasons, if they exist, have been carefully guarded as\nsecrets from the public.\n\n\"Lack of room is not a reason for excluding Chinese labourers, nor is\nlack of need for their services. In the great island of Mindanao alone\nit is doubtful if five per cent of the tillable land is under\ncultivation, and in other places it is the same. A large part of the\nrice consumed in these Islands is imported from other countries, yet we\nhave here the finest tropical climate in the world and the most\nproductive soil. Let a sufficient number of Chinese labourers come into\nthe Philippines and we will guarantee that in ten years we will be\nsending rice to the gates of Pekin and Tokyo.\"\n\nToward night we sailed on the _Rizal_ from Cebu for the land of the\nMoros. Out in the Sulu Sea, one felt very near heaven when the sky\nturned hazy gray in the afterglow, and the distant islands mauve, only\ntheir peaks flaming like volcanoes from the hidden sun. Then the big\nstars came out, like Japanese lanterns, and left a comet-like trail\nupon the dancing waters.\n\nFrom their holes below the cabin boys, Ah Sing and Sing Song, would pop\nout like slim white mice with their long black pigtails, with little cot\nbeds tucked under their arms which they would place in rows upon the\ndeck. Ah Sing would say, \"Cheih ko koe\" (that will do), and Sing Song\nwould answer, \"Hsiao hsin\" (be careful). Later, when the moon rose out\nof the sea and the Southern Cross appeared on the horizon, shadowy forms\nglided silently up the companionway. But the silence did not last. Some\none would call to Sing Song in pidgin English:\n\n\"Boy! go catchy whiskey, Tansan; top side, talky man little more fat!\"\nAnd some one else would say to Ah Sing,\n\n\"You fool boy, you catchy me one bath.\"\n\nAh Sing seemed to understand. He would wag his head and answer, \"You\ngood man, no talky all the time, makey me sick.\" And he would disappear.\n\nAt sight of a tall, genial man, the people in their cots would sing out,\n\"Doctor Heiser's a friend of mine, a friend of mine, a friend of mine,\"\netc. American judges, and Filipino congressmen and generals were of the\ncompany. Occasionally a whisper, very often a giggle, sometimes a\nclinking of glasses, and good night kisses, were heard, and then the\nsand man closed our eyes.\n\n[Illustration: A MORO _DATO_ AND HIS WIFE, WITH A RETINUE OF\nATTENDANTS.]\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER IX\n\nTHE MOROS\n\n\nOn reaching Mindanao, the land of the Moros, we went ashore at Camp\nOverton, where we were met by army officers and dougherties drawn by\nteams of six mules. After a hand-shake at the commanding officer's home,\nwe were furnished with a big escort of cavalry and started climbing up,\nup, among the hills. Soldiers were hidden in the tall grass all along\nthe way to make sure that nothing would happen to \"the great White\nSultan with the big Red Flag,\" as the Moros called the Secretary. Army\nmen could not go out alone, even in those days, for they were attacked\nby bands and killed, principally to get their weapons, which the Moros\nwere very keen to possess. The _datos_, the head men of the Moro tribes,\nwere allowed to have guns, but none of the other natives. A storm came\nup, however, not long ago on Lake Lanao, at Camp Keithley, and for fear\nthat his boat would upset, General Wood had a great deal of ammunition\nthrown overboard, which, it was discovered, was subsequently fished up\nby the natives.\n\nThe Moros are Mohammedan Malays. They came in their boats from islands\nfurther south, and in 1380 were converted to Islam by an Arab wise man,\nMakadum,[26] who made his way to Sulu and Mindanao.\n\nOne hears then of Raja Baginda, who came from Sumatra in 1450; his\ndaughter married Abu Bahr, the law giver, who established the Mohammedan\nChurch and, after his father-in-law's death, became sultan and founded a\ndynasty. In the old days the Moros were all pirates and slave traders.\nBoth Spanish and American authorities have tried to suppress slavery,\nbut it still exists. It is said a woman will bring about forty pesos.\n\nA dato's slaves to-day are well treated, and form part of the family. A\nslave, moreover, has a chance to rise in the social scale, for Piang,\nwhom we met, was once a slave, but became a powerful chief and a friend\nof the Americans.\n\nThe ruler of all the Moros is the Sultan of Sulu, whom we did not see\nbecause he was in Europe at the time we were in the Islands. It is said\nthat a few years ago he would sometimes appear in the market on the\nback of a slave, with an umbrella held over his head. Here he would stay\nwhile the people kissed his hands and feet. He may have changed his\ncustoms since his trip.\n\nDampier, who visited the northern islands of the Philippines, has also\nleft us notes of his stay on Mindanao, which are still true in the main.\nHe says:\n\n\"The island of Mindanao is divided into small states, governed by\nhostile sultans, the governor of Mindanao being the most powerful. The\ncity of Mindanao stood on the banks of the river, about two miles from\nthe sea. It was about a mile in length, and winded with the curve of the\nriver. The houses were built on posts from fourteen to twenty feet high,\nand in the rainy season looked as if built on a lake, the natives going\ntheir different ways in canoes. The houses are of one story, divided\ninto several rooms, and entered by a ladder or stair placed outside. The\nroofing consists of palm or palmetto leaves.... The floors of the\nhabitations are of wicker-work or bamboo.\n\n\"A singular custom, but which facilitated intercourse with the natives\nand vice versa, was of exchanging names and forming comradeship with a\nnative, whose house was thenceforth considered the home of the\nstranger.\"\n\nAlimund Din's name stands out in this meager Moro history beyond all\nothers, for he was the first and only Christian ruler in this land. Even\nbefore he became a Christian he was a reformer, and suppressed piracy.\nHe not only coined money but had both an army and a navy, and lived in\nsuch splendour as probably has not existed since those days, among the\nMoros.\n\nAlimund Din ruled about the middle of the eighteenth century, in the\ntime of Philip V of Spain. In return for ammunition to enable the\nSpanish to keep down piracy, he allowed the Jesuit fathers to enter his\ncountry. In time, however, they caused trouble among the Moros, and\ncivil war broke out, as Bautilan, a relative of Alimund Din's, preferred\nthe Mohammedan religion to the new ideas of the Jesuits. Alimund Din and\nhis followers took flight in boats, and in time reached Manila, where\nthey interceded for Spanish protection. The Spaniards showered him with\npresents, gave him a royal entrance into the city, and finally converted\nhim to Christianity. Later, he was sent back, escorted by Spanish ships,\nbut Bautilan's fleet attacked them. As the Spaniards suspected Alimund\nDin of becoming a Christian not entirely for Christianity's sake,\nthey threw him into prison. The throne was restored to him in 1763 by\nthe English, who occupied this part of the island for a short time.\n\n[Illustration: A MORO GRAVE.]\n\nThe Moros are not supposed to eat meat or drink wine, although they have\nbeen known to drink whiskey and soda with Americans, as well as eat pork\nand beans on occasions. There are no mosques in this region or holy\ndancing-girls (who can do no wrong) but there are Moro priests or\n_panditas_ who go from house to house. They have little education, but\nsome of them have traveled. It is the custom for a relative of the\ndeceased to watch and protect a Moro grave for many months. Such a\nmourner can sometimes be seen squatting near by under a yellow umbrella.\nThe Moros have as many wives as they can afford, but not more than they\ncan afford, for it is an insult to speak of a man's wife as \"begging\nbread.\"\n\nThe Moros are smaller than the East Indian Mohammedans, but are strong\nand slight, and have fine features. They appear especially cruel and\ndetermined because their teeth are black from _buyo_. In war time, many\nof the women fought beside the men, and it is supposed to be they who\nmutilated the Americans found dead on the field after battle. The\npeople whom we met on the road with their ponies loaded with hemp\nseldom smiled and did not bow, but they looked us straight in the eye,\nand there was no touch of sulkiness about them.\n\nIt is very difficult to distinguish the men from the women, as they\ndress much alike. But you see few of the latter on the road, for being\nMohammedans, most of them are kept at home. They are not veiled like\nother Moslem women, except when first married.\n\nThe costumes of the Moros differ to such a degree--and for no reason\nthat I could discover--that it is difficult to describe them. Many wear\ntight trousers, which are something like those of the Spaniards--so\ntight that they are sewn on the men and never come off until worn\nout--and are often bright red or yellow in colour. On the other hand,\nsome wear very loose, baggy trousers or skirts of different shades.\nIndeed, they are the most gaily dressed people I have ever seen, and\ntheir brown skins set off the vivid yellows and greens and reds and\nmagentas and purples of which their trousers and jackets and turbans and\nhandkerchiefs are made. The jackets have a Chinese appearance. The\nturbans might be old Aunt Dinah's of the South. The sashes, which are\nwoven in the Moro houses, are of silk, bright green and dark red being\nthe predominant colours. They are knotted on one side, generally a kriss\nor a bolo being held in the knot, and are tied about the waist so\ntightly that the men look almost laced, and perhaps that accounts for\ntheir womanish appearance.\n\nWhen the American army first occupied this region they treated the Moros\nwell and found them friendly. Take for instance Zamboanga in the south,\nan especially interesting region. When the American soldiers entered,\nthe Spanish guard left the garrison, and the Spanish population and the\npriests followed. The Americans found outside the town gates a large\nbarbed wire bird cage, where the Moros had been compelled to leave their\narms before entering the town at night, to avoid an uprising. The\ngovernment of Zamboanga at this time was reorganized by the American\nofficers. A Filipino presidente was appointed, a dato to head the Moros,\nand a Captain Chinese, as he was called, to manage his people, who were\nmostly merchants and pearl fishers.\n\nMindanao was under a military-civil government that worked wonders, for\nin a few years many of the Moros were brought under control, and they\nbecame loyal Americans, although they had always been bitter enemies of\nthe Filipinos and the Spaniards. They say they have found the Americans\nbrave, and have not been lied to by them, and so they seek our\nprotection. Although the Moro and the head-hunter are so different, they\nare alike in one respect--if they care for an official and have\nconfidence in him they do not want him changed. It is the man they are\nwilling to obey rather than the government. Of course, there are\nthousands of them, fierce as ever, back in the mountains, and they are\nstill fanatic and wild. Even among those who are under control, the\ngreatest care has to be exercised, for they have the hatred of the\nChristian deep in their hearts, and they may run amuck at any moment and\nkill till they are killed; but this is a part of their faith, they ask\nno quarter, and nothing stops them but death.\n\nBesides the danger of their attack by religious mania they have a great\ndesire for rifles, as I have said, and they are always \"jumping\" the\nconstabulary, attacking small parties suddenly from ambush and cutting\nthem down with their knives, or killing sentries; so that constant care\nhas to be used, and the sentinels walk at night in twos, almost back to\nback, so as to have eyes on all sides. A few weeks before we arrived\nthere had been several cases of \"jumping.\"\n\nAn American army officer told me the fights with the Moros generally\noccurred on the trails among the hills; as the foliage is so thick, it\nis easy for the natives to conceal themselves on either side, sometimes\nin ditches, and give the Americans a surprise. For this reason, a drill\nwas found necessary for single file fighting. Every other soldier was\ntaught to respond to the order of one and two. When an attack was made,\nthe \"ones\" shot to the right, the \"twos\" to the left. This proved\nsuccessful. The same officer said the Moros would often use decoys to\nlead the troops astray. Seeing fresh tracks, they would hasten on in\npursuit, and be led away from their supplies, while their enemy would be\nleft behind to attack them in the rear. Walking on the mountain trails\nwas very hard on the soldiers' shoes, and on one of these expeditions\ntheir boots gave out, so they were obliged to make soles for their shoes\nout of boxes and tie them on with leather straps.\n\nUp, up we drove; the clatter of the cavalry could be heard in front and\nbehind, and the dougherty, how it did rattle! It was a pretty sight to\nsee the party traveling through the tropical forests and winding across\nthe green uplands, with their pennons and the Secretary's red flag\n(which made a great impression on the natives, we heard), and the wagons\nrumbling along, with a rearguard behind and the scouts in the distance.\nJohn, the coloured man, snapped his whip, and the mules trotted along,\nand the air became cooler, and we drove over a plain where real mountain\nrice was planted. Occasionally a Moro shack could be seen in the\ndistance.\n\nAt an outpost, where we stopped to change mules, we saw a beautiful\nwaterfall, perhaps the loveliest that I had ever seen, called Santa\nMaria Cristina. From a greater height than Niagara it plunged down into\na deep valley of giant trees. It reminded me of a superb waterfall near\nSeattle.\n\nAt last we reached Camp Keithley, on the mountain plain, a forlorn lot\nof unpainted houses with tin roofs and piazzas, but beautifully\nsituated, like some station in the Himalayas. There was splendid\nmountain scenery disappearing into the distances, and views of the ocean\nfar away, and, on the other side, the great lake of Lanao, an inland sea\nmore than two thousand feet above the ocean, with imposing ranges about.\nThis lake, which has always been the center of Moro life, is surrounded\nby native villages, and the military post is important and much liked\nby the officers quartered there.\n\nThe Secretary, my husband and I were billeted on Major Beacom, the\ncommanding officer--Mrs. Dickinson had not felt quite equal to the trip.\nThe Major's house was very attractive, and his little German housekeeper\ngave us excellent food and made the orderlies fly about for our comfort.\n\nWe went almost at once to the market place, which was intensely\ninteresting. The gorgeous colours and gold buttons of the costumes were\nmagnificent. Brass bowls for chow were for sale, and betel-nut boxes\ninlaid with silver, and round silver ones with instruments attached to\nclean the ears and nose. There are four compartments in these betel-nut\nboxes--for lime, tobacco, the betel nut, and a leaf in which to wrap the\nmixture called buyo.\n\nHere we saw the spear and shield dance. The dancer had a headdress that\ncovered his forehead and ears, making him look quite ridiculous,\nabsolutely as though he were on the comic opera stage. With shield and\nspear he danced as swiftly and silently as a cat, creeping and springing\nuntil your blood ran cold, especially as you knew he had killed many a\nman.\n\nIn the afternoon, after reviewing the troops and inspecting the\nquarters, we crossed a corner of the lake and landed at a Moro village.\nIt was raining hard and the mud was deep. We waded through a street,\nfollowed by the people in their best clothes--one in a black velvet\nsuit, another in a violet velvet jacket. I saw only two women in the\nstreets; they were not veiled nor brilliantly dressed, but had red\npainted lips and henna on their nails. The Moro constabulary here wore\nred fezzes and khaki, and the officer in command at the time was of\nGerman birth.\n\nAfter we had passed through a bamboo trail, we came into a little open\nplace with three fine Moro houses about, set up above the ground on\ngreat posts made of tree trunks. Unlike Filipino houses, they had\nfa\u00e7ades all carved in a rough and handsome sort of arabesque, painted in\nbright reds and blues, and with pointed roofs and coloured cloths\nfluttering out of the open spaces, they made fine effects. The long\ncracks in the walls served as peepholes, where the snapping black eyes\nof the many wives of the datos were peering out at us. In front, in the\nlittle green space, pennons were planted and there was a huge\nChinese-looking sea serpent, or dragon, on wheels, with a body of gaily\ncoloured stuffs, and a rearing movable head. This cavorted about in\ntime to the endless noise of the tom-toms. A crowd of natives stood\nround in their fanciful raiment.\n\n[Illustration: A MORO _DATO'S_ HOUSE.]\n\nInto one of these houses we were invited. We mounted the ladder to the\none large room in the front, into which the sliding panel shutters\nadmitted the air freely, so that it was cool and shaded. Here sat the\nwives and the slaves in a corner, playing on a long wooden instrument\nwith brass pans, which they struck, producing high and low sounds, with\na little more tune than the Igorots. The big room was bare, except for a\nlong shelf on which was some woven cloth and a fine collection of the\nnative brass work, for this is the center of the brass-workers.\n\nWe moved on through the little town of nipa houses to visit old Dato\nManilibang, whose house was not as fine as those we had seen before, but\nwhere we were admitted into two rooms. From the entrance we streaked\nmuddy feet across the bamboo-slatted floor into his reception room,\nwhere a sort of divan occupied one side--on which the Secretary was\nasked to sit. Behind this cushioned seat were piled the boxes with the\nchief's possessions, and here he sits in state in the daytime and sleeps\nat night. The women, who were huddled together on one side of the room,\nwore bracelets and rings, and one was rather pretty.\n\nAt dawn we were up and off again. What a day! We had two hours on a boat\ncrossing a lovely lake, surrounded by mountains, on the shore of which\nsome of the wildest Moros live. Our boat was a big launch, a sort of\ngunboat, which, strangely enough, the Spaniards had brought up here and\nsunk in the lake when the war came on, we were told, and which had been\nresurrected successfully. It was a steep climb up the opposite side of\nthe lake, but most of us scrambled up on horses, till we topped the\nridge and came to Camp Vickers, a station with fine air and outlook but\nrather small and pathetic.\n\nThe picturesque Moros had gathered here to greet the Secretary, and\ntheir wail of welcome was something strange and weird. A dato would come\nswinging by, followed in single file by his betel-box carrier, chow\nbearer and slaves. Some of the chiefs rode scraggly ponies, on high\nsaddles, with their big toes in stirrups of cord almost up under their\nchins, and with bells on the harness that rattled gaily. And, of course,\nthe tom-toms kept up their endless music.\n\nWe had two more hours of horseback riding--we hoped to see a boar hunt,\nbut owing to some misunderstanding, it did not come off. Then, after\na stand-up luncheon at Major Brown's, we started down the trail again in\na dougherty.\n\n[Illustration: BAGOBO MAN WITH POINTED TEETH.]\n\nIt was a beautiful drive through this forest on the island of Mindanao.\nWe first crossed open grassy uplands, then dipped down through the great\nglades of the most tropical forest I have ever seen, with towering hard\nwoods and tree ferns, with bamboos and clinging air plants and orchids,\nand there was mystery and wonder about the giant growths. The trees\nseemed taller than the elms of New England or the cedars of Oregon. They\ndripped with huge-leaved, clinging vines, which grew higgledy-piggledy,\ncovering everything. The grass, too, with waving purple tassels, grew\nhigher than a man's head, twice as high as the pigmy brown people who\nhave their houses in these trees.\n\nThe tree-dwellers just referred to are the Manobos and the Bagobos with\npointed teeth--for Mindanao is not entirely inhabited by Moros; there\nare supposed to be no less than twenty-four tribes on this island alone.\nThey build in trees, to escape the spear thrusts of their neighbours\nthrough the bamboo floors. We were to make their acquaintance later.\n\nA drenching rain came on that afternoon, through which the escort jogged\nalong, while we clung in our dougherties, nearly shaken to pieces, and\nreached Malabang, on the other side of the island, as much fatigued as\nif we had been on horseback all the way. The military post here was most\nattractive, with the prettiest of nipa houses for the officers, and the\nparade lined with shading palms, and flower-bordered walks--a charming\nstation. We were quartered with Lieutenant Barry and his wife, a\ndelightful young couple, in their thatched house, and dined with Major\nSargent, the commanding officer, who has written some good books on\nmilitary topics.\n\nThe Celebes Sea was calm and lovely when we left Malabang. We passed\nalong the coast of Mindanao toward a long lowland that lay between the\nhigh mountains of the island. This was the plain of the Cotobato, a\ngreat river which overflows its banks annually like the Nile and has\nformed a fertile valley that could be turned to good account. The mouth\nof the river is shallow, so that we were transferred to a stern-wheel\nboat that was waiting, and began to work our way up, against the rapid\ncurrent, past low, uninteresting banks that were proving rather\nmonotonous, when suddenly we turned a point and saw the town of\nCotobato.\n\nThe Moros and the other tribes were in their full splendour here. Soon,\ndown this tropical river, where crocodiles dozed and monkeys chattered\nand paroquets shrieked, there came a flotilla from the Arabian Nights,\nmanned by galley slaves. On the masts and poles of one of the barges\nfloated banners, and under the canopy of green sat a real Princess. Some\nof the boats were only dugouts with outriggers, but they were decorated,\ntoo, and all the tribes were dressed in silks and velvets of the\nbrightest colours.\n\nThere was great excitement and much cheering as we approached the\nlanding stage, and the troops stood at attention, while the rest of the\nshore was alive with the throng of natives in all the colours of the\nrainbow. The Secretary inspected the troops, and we saw for the first\ntime the Moro constabulary, wearing turbans and sashes, but with bare\nlegs; nevertheless, they looked very dashing. Indeed, the Moros were so\ndifferent in character and appearance from any people we had seen before\nthat they might as well have come down from the stars.\n\nThe Secretary was taken to meet the datos, as they stood in line\nbeneath the great trees, with the motley crowds of retainers behind\nthem, in such a medley of colours as I had never imagined before. The\nsunlight filtered through the trees upon the barbaric costumes, while\nthe gaily dressed women stood behind the men and peered over them. The\nbrown men looked dignified and very self-respecting, too, although the\nscene was like the setting of a comic opera, where the imagination had\nbeen allowed to run riot.\n\nThere we saw Dato Piang and Gimbungen, a very fat dato--what a\ndelightful bug-a-boo name--also Ynock, whose ear had been cut off in a\nfight, we were told; but strange as it may seem, he said he had clapped\nit onto his face again and tied it on, and it had grown there. So it\nhung attached somewhere down on his cheek, and gave him a very peculiar\nappearance. When the Moros conquered the Filipinos, this dato had the\ncaptured women stripped and made to walk before him, and then took them\noff to the mountains. When he was taken prisoner later by the Filipinos,\nhe was compelled to work in chains in the streets.\n\nUnder a canopy the Princess received us, a native woman whose descent\nwas traced for many hundreds of years--said to be a pure Moro, although\nshe looked rather Chinese--and who was recognized as of the highest\nsocial superiority, but had little political power. She herself was\ndraped in varied colours, while her chamberlain wore a brocade coat of\ncrimson and gold cloth. Behind her stood her maids bearing the gold\nbetel-nut boxes and chow trays and umbrellas of her rank.\n\nOur luncheon with the commanding officer, Major Heiberg, and his wife,\nwas eaten in delightful little kiosks of nipa and bamboo, which had been\nbuilt in a small palm grove. The dancing girls of the Princess, who had\nlong nails protected by silver covers, gave us a performance afterward.\nCuriously enough, their dance was very Japanese in character. Then some\nManobos, picturesque in short, skin-tight trousers and bolero jackets,\nwith bags and boxes beautifully worked in bright beads, danced a\ngraceful, monotonous step. The women have a swaying, snake-like dance\nwith waving arms and jingling of bracelets and \"hiplets,\" if I may be\nallowed to coin the word.\n\nAt last, after so many adventures, we found ourselves again on board the\n_Rizal_. An enchanting spot on this boat was a projection over the bow,\non which one could sit curled up high above the water. On this perch we\nfelt like the red-winged sea gulls that circled far above us. We passed\nover a sea of polished jade, which at night shone with phosphorescence\nlike gleaming silver.\n\nNext morning, August 23d, we approached Zamboanga. Five American ships,\nall decorated, came steaming out to meet us and fell in behind in order,\nmaking a lovely sight on the bright, smooth seas. As we neared the town,\nwe suddenly saw a large flotilla of native boats, with tom-toms beating\nand thousands of flags fluttering--such a gay sight! Banners of all\nshapes, streaming and flapping and waving, and such colours and\ncombinations of colours--stripes of green and purple and orange in\ndesigns of lemon and red and magenta, serpentine flags and square ones,\nhung in all sorts of ways, and brightly coloured canopies under which\nsat the sultans, and green umbrellas and yellow and--bang! off went\ntheir small lantankas, tiny native-made cannon--a most exciting\nreception!\n\nWe landed under triumphal arches and were driven in state carriages\nthrough lines of school children, who sang and threw us flowers from old\nSpanish gardens. The post was really beautiful, for it had much left\nfrom old Spanish times, and what had been done over had been done\nwith taste. The green parade had a terraced canal passing through it,\nand avenues of palm; the officers' quarters, smothered in flowering\nplants and fronting out over the glittering blue sea, were large and\nairy and finer than any we had seen before. It is considered one of the\nbest posts in the Philippines, and seemed cool and pleasant.\n\n[Illustration: BAGOBOS WITH MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS.]\n\nThere was the usual procession--first, the troops of the garrison and\nthe constabulary, then thousands of visiting Moros, Bagobos and Manobos,\nof every colour of skin and clothes, many of them whooping and leaping,\nand then a tiresome following of hundreds of Filipinos, who had joined\nin to make a political demonstration. It is said the Filipinos did not\nwish the Moros to take part in the procession.\n\nExciting times followed at the meeting after this parade, where both\nFilipino and Moro speakers were heard. Said a Filipino, addressing the\nSecretary:\n\n\"You have just visited our province and have just learned its\nconditions; at such places in it through which you have passed you must\nhave seen quite a number of Moros, but I believe that a separation ...\ncould very well be established, to the end that both people, the\nChristian Filipino and the Filipino Moro, might have the government\nthat corresponds respectively to each of them, for it is a very\nregrettable thing that on account of the presence of the latter we\nChristians should be unable to enjoy the liberties that reason and right\nwould grant us....\n\n\"I think it is my duty to advise you that the Moros who filed past the\ngrandstand were brought from remote and distant places with the\nexclusive purpose of giving greater \u00e9clat to your reception. Moreover,\nit must be borne in mind always, in dealing with the affairs of this\nprovince, that the Moros have no political influence, possess no\nproperty, nor help pay the expense of the government.\"\n\nThen Dato Mandi spoke:\n\n\"I am here, El Raja Mura Mandi, representing the Moros. As I look about,\nI see far more Moros than the Filipino contingent, and if that is so,\nthat is the reason it is called the Moro Province. (Tremendous applause\nfrom the Moros.)\n\n\"When first the Americans came here, from the very beginning, whatever\nthey asked me to do I did. I was loyal to them ever. Now I have heard a\nrumour that we Moros are in the hands of the Filipinos....\n\n\"If the American Government does not want the Moro Province any more\nthey should give it back to us. It is a Moro province. It belongs to\nus.\" (Tremendous applause by the Moros.)\n\nDato Sacaluran threw down the Moro challenge:\n\n\"I am an old man. I do not want any more trouble. But if it should come\nto that, that we shall be given over to the Filipinos, I still would\nfight.\" (Applause.)\n\nBut Hadji Nangnui, who spoke of himself as \"a Samal,\" made the clearest\nstatement of the Moro position:\n\n\"The Secretary of War must look the matter in the face. We are a\ndifferent race; we have a different religion; we are Mohammedans. And if\nwe should be given over to the Filipinos, how much more would they treat\nus badly, than they treated even the Spanish badly who were their own\nmothers and their own fathers in generations? How did they treat them?\nThink about it! Think twice! We far prefer to be in the hands of the\nAmericans, who are father and mother to us now, than to be turned over\nto another people.\" (Applause.)\n\nIn the evening we dined delightfully at the Pershings'. After dinner,\nthe Moros danced in the garden the spear and shield dance, and the\nBagobo women gave the scarf dance. The Bagobos still offer human\nsacrifices. Their caps, if tied in a certain way, show how many men they\nhave killed. Their dress is made of cloth which they weave from\ncarefully selected and dyed fibers of Manila hemp, and it is treated\nwith wax in such a way as to make it very smooth and durable. In the\nglow of the red light from Chino Charlie's famous lanterns, their\npicturesque costumes, gleaming with bead work, added much to the\nbrilliancy of the scene. They love music and make some large stringed\ninstruments. They also play the flute from the nose, with one nostril\nstopped up, like the Hawaiians.\n\nThe dancing under the palms in the garden, by the rippling seas, where\nthe moonlight flooded down radiantly, was quite like a strange dream.\n\nAt this dinner I was told the story given by Dean Worcester by which the\nMoros explain why they do not eat pork:\n\n\"Mahamoud had a grandson and a granddaughter.... As he was king of the\nworld, Christ came to his house to visit him. Mahamoud, jealous of him,\ntold him to prove his power by 'divining' what he had in a certain room,\nwhere, in fact, were his grandchildren. Christ replied that he had no\nwish to prove his power, and would not 'divine.' Mahamoud then vowed\nthat if he did not answer correctly, he should pay for it with his life.\nChrist responded, 'You have two animals in there, different from\nanything else in the world.' Mahamoud replied, 'No, you are wrong, and I\nwill now kill you.' Christ said, 'Look first, and see for yourself.'\nMahamoud opened the door, and out rushed two hogs, into which Christ had\nchanged his grandchildren.\"\n\n[Illustration: BAGOBO WITH NOSE FLUTE.]\n\nSome verses recited at General Pershing's dinner showed the feeling of\narmy officers about their life in the Philippines. A stanza runs:\n\n \"What is it makes us fret so hard\n In this benighted land?\n It isn't lack of courage\n And it isn't lack of 'sand.'\n It isn't fear of Moros\n Or Bagobos from the hills--\n It's the many great discomforts\n And the many, many ills.\"\n\nIt is interesting to read in a recent number of the Manila _Times_ that\nZamboanga, which seemed so like a picture handed down from Spanish days,\nhas absorbed a good share of American progressiveness and is said to\nstand in a class by itself among Philippine towns. Waterworks and a\nhydro-electric plant are under construction, the water for which is to\nbe brought along the mountainside, a part of the way through tunnels. To\ndig these, \"experienced Igorot tunnel makers from Benguet were\nimported,\" who are getting along amicably with the Moros.\n\nAt Jolo, or Sulu, we were again greeted by a Moro fleet and some diving\ngirls and boys.\n\nThis seemed the culmination of the picturesque in our trip. The\nmountains of the island are not high but rather cone-shaped, and as we\napproached the town we could see behind it the forested slopes of steep\nBud Dajo, where the great fight took place in 1906 and many Moros were\nkilled in the crater top of the volcano, to which they had retreated,\nand from which they challenged and threatened the American forces. It is\nan island of fierce, piratical Moros, and even the Americans had not\ntried to do much there. It was dangerous to go outside the little walled\ntown at all, and all the natives coming in were searched for their\nweapons, which were taken away at the gates. Only a few months before, a\nfanatic Moro tried to attack the gate guard, but fortunately was killed\nbefore fatally injuring any one.\n\n[Illustration: MORO BOATS.]\n\nThe walled town is a most artistic little Spanish place, built once\nupon a time by the exiled Spanish Governor Asturia, who made it a gem of\na town, with small balustraded plazas and a hanging-garden sea wall, and\na miniature wall with battlements and gates, and streets set out with\nshading trees. The pretty Officers' Club and quarters overhung the wall.\nThe gates of the town are closed at night, and all the natives must\nleave for their houses outside before the \"retreat,\" but there is a\nnative market and a town built out on piles over the water, which we\nvisited. We drove out to a plain, palm-fringed and backed by mountains,\nthat overlooked the sea, where there was a review of the cavalry and a\nlarge company of mounted Moros, who carried many American flags among\ntheir waving banners. Within the walls, in a grandstand in the little\nplaza, where the natives thronged, there was a meeting between the\nSecretary and the chief datos; and the Hadji, who had been Vizier of the\nSultan, made a wise speech, full of promise of loyalty. Our Governor had\nwon the good will of the people about him and the Hadji said that when\nhis people were certain of our good intentions they would come in\nwillingly and be loyal--but, for so many years, they had been misled by\nprevious rulers.\n\nWe amused ourselves by going to Chino Charlie's and buying lanterns,\nand lunched at the Officers' Club. Afterward we went out on the pier\ninhabited by the Chinese and looked for pearls--Jolo pearls are\nfamous--but we saw none of real value. We watched the Chinamen drying\ncopra, and went through their market, where water slugs were for sale.\nFinally, we sailed across the bay. Our visit to the Moros was full of\ncolour to the end, for the sun was setting gorgeously as we put out to\nsea.\n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER X\n\nJOURNEY'S END\n\n\nThe little coral island of Bancoran lies in the middle of the Sulu Sea,\nquite outside the usual routes of travel. It is inhabited only by birds,\nand people seldom or never go there. But we wanted to obtain, if we\ncould, some new species of gulls or terns for the Bureau of Science at\nManila, and also to enjoy the mysterious sea gardens which are found\namong the southern reefs. Just after tiffin the island was sighted,\nlying quite alone by itself in milky green water. The ship stopped and\nlaunches were dropped overboard, and a glass-bottomed boat which had\nbeen brought along for our use.\n\nThe afternoon was ideal--the sky blue and fleeced with snowy clouds\npiled high, while the intense sun shining on the water flashed back a\nhundred shades of blue and green and mauve. On one side of the island,\nwhich floated like an emerald among sapphires, outstanding rocks chafed\nthe seas into foaming surf, while on the other a long, narrow beach lay\nshimmering, pale yellow in the sunlight. The island itself was covered\nwith a thick jungle of trees, which were dotted with thousands of\nresting birds. As we drew nearer they saw us and were afraid, rising and\nsoaring and circling in the clear, pure air, and crying out at us. Flock\nafter flock of sea fowl flew wonderingly over our small craft, their\nwhite breasts tinted green with the light reflected from the water.\n\nIt was like a Robinson Crusoe island, lost out there in the lonely sea.\nBut there were shells of huge turtles, and bones of birds, which\nsuggested that sometime a feast must have been held there, so it was not\nwholly undiscovered and unexplored. Among the great roots of the trees\nthe birds had built their nests from leaves. The eggs in some of them\nwere white and about the size of hens' eggs. Several varieties of\nboobies and terns were found, some brown with green-blue eyes, others\nivory-white. A few specimens were shot, and one or two were taken back\nalive to the _Rizal_ for the museum. Previous to this visit the\nornithologists had never known to what islands the boobies and frigate\nbirds came to nest, although the scientists had long been searching for\nthe place, so the expedition was well worth while.\n\nBut the sea gardens interested me more than the birds or even the\nisland. If Alice could have had her choice in entering Wonderland, she\nwould surely have selected a doorway leading through a glass-bottomed\nboat, instead of dropping down a rabbit's hole. Beneath the water, which\nwas crystal clear, we could see a strange country with new flowers and\npeculiar creatures. Where it was sandy and shallow we saw below us\nfields of green sea grass, on which the fairies must surely have used\nlawn-mowers, it was so neatly kept.\n\nInterspersed among the fields were beds of feathery, lace-like\nvegetation unnamed in the language of our party. Passing one expanse\nafter another of this submarine pasturage, we saw depressions in the\ncoral, where tiny fishes played or unknown water creatures had\nestablished a little world for themselves and were living in its narrow\nconfines quite unconscious of what went on in the surrounding vastness.\n\nDrifting on into deeper water, we came to a ghost-like gray world of\ncurls and feathers, trembling with life, a forest of pale trees and\nswaying brown ones, of high hills and dark valleys, made by coral reefs.\nPretty rock gardens came into view, where there were cabbages with blue\nedges, sea anemones and purple fans, a huge toadstool, a giant fungus,\nand a cactus plant--at least, that is what they looked like to us. There\nwere rainbow shells, too, half hidden, and great blue starfish clinging\nto the rocks. In and out among the sponges and the brown coral branches,\nwhich were so much like antlers, swam curious fishes. Such gorgeous\ncolours--so vivid and in such brilliant combinations! Some were big\ngreen fellows, with needle noses; others were electric blue and silver;\nthere were black and yellow ones, too, and striped fishes that looked\nlike sly prisoners dodging their keepers.[27]\n\n[Illustration: ONE DAY'S CATCH OF FISH.]\n\nWe passed the greater part of the afternoon marooned on this far-away\nisland, some of us going bathing off the shallow, sandy beaches in the\nclear water. As evening came on we regretfully left the fairy island of\nBancoran, and sailed away by the rising moon.\n\nThe Penal Colony on Palawan, which I have described in another chapter,\nwas our next point of interest. We left there behind schedule and met a\nstronger current than we had expected, sweeping down the coast of Panay,\nso that it was no wonder that we were late in approaching Iloilo. This\nwas especially unfortunate, for very generous preparations had been made\nthere for the Secretary's reception and an interesting series of events\narranged, all of which was upset by the delay.\n\nIt was sunset when we finally sighted the town. As we cruised up the\nsteeply palisaded coast, with the low-lying foreground of Panay on the\nother side, backed by its fine ranges of mountains, the effects were\nmost beautiful. The old Spanish fort on its point looked mysterious in\nthe afterglow, and the skies were magnificently alight. A fleet of much\nbeflagged launches and steamers came out to meet the Secretary,\nwhistling a welcome, and turning, escorted the _Rizal_.\n\nNext to Manila, Iloilo is the most important port in the Islands, and\nhas a better climate than its rival. The people here are supposed to be\nwealthier and more aristocratic than elsewhere. The Payne bill, which\nhad been in operation only a short time, had brought such a return of\nprosperity to the land, and especially to the planters of this fertile\nprovince, that they were all very enthusiastic about Americans, and did\nall they could to express their gratitude.\n\nWe were invited for dinner at half after seven, but it was an hour later\nbefore we sat down to the long table in the large and rather empty room,\nwith its handsome Venetian mirrors at either end, and its sliding\nshutters wide open to the night. There were no ladies present except\nthose of our party. We could never tell how things would be\narranged,--sometimes there would be Filipina ladies, and sometimes there\nwould not; sometimes the ladies would all be placed together at one side\nof the table, and again they would be seated next to the men. While\nwaiting for dinner to be announced, we sat about in an airy room, with\nhalf-dressed servants peeping in at us, and a phonograph playing\nCaruso records.\n\n[Illustration: VIEW IN ILOILO, ILOILO, SHOWING HIGH SCHOOL GROUNDS.]\n\nAfter dinner we had a long drive out through the town, which seemed\nquite business-like and prosperous. They had rebuilt some of the fine,\nlarge, wide-open houses, most of which had been destroyed by the\ninsurrectos. (On the nearby island of Negros, we were told, there were\nmany fine _haciendas_ with great houses full of carved work which I was\nsorry not to see.) Passing through suburbs of nipa houses standing up on\ntheir stilts in the moonlight, we came to a plaza gaily illuminated, and\nto our destination, a mansion approached by a triumphal arch. In the\nbest houses the living rooms are on the second floor, just as in the\npoorer ones they are raised above the ground on stilts. So here we went\nupstairs to a great room hung with festoons of flags, where the little\nwomen in their bright and varied dresses passing and repassing made a\ngay scene. It was here, indeed, that we saw some of the prettiest and\nbest dressed women whom we met on our trip.\n\nMost of the following day was spent cruising along the coast of Panay,\npassing between its fine outlying islands, which reminded us of the\nInland Sea of Japan. In the afternoon we came to the entrance of the\nriver on which Capiz is located. The Secretary crossed overland on the\nfirst train to run on the new railway, in order to drive in the silver\nspikes that completed the line.\n\nNo dinners had been planned there for those of us who had come by ship,\nso we did not start up river until half after eight. Capiz is only four\nmiles from the mouth, but they were the longest miles we had ever\nexperienced, for by some mistake the pilot did not arrive, so we went in\na _Rizal_ launch without one. We just struggled along as well as we\ncould in the dark till the moon came up, which only mystified us the\nmore with its deceptive shadows. Half a dozen times we ran deep into mud\nbanks, and the sailormen were forced to jump overboard and shove us off.\nThey did not appear to enjoy doing this, and no wonder, for it was a\ncrocodile river.\n\nSwarms of fireflies, which gathered on favourite trees, made a very\nChristmas-like effect with their throbbing lights. They were lovely,\ntoo, in the dark shore shadows, and made sparkling reflections in the\nblack river stream. Watching them we could almost forget our troubles.\n\n[Illustration: THE OLD AUGUSTINIAN CHURCH, MANILA.]\n\nFinally, after much winding round and backing off, we turned a bend and\nsaw a line of little twinkling lights strung along the shore and on\nfloating barges, giving quite a Venetian effect and showing us the town\nby their reflection. Landing, we walked across the grassy square to the\nprovincial building, with its open courtyards, where there was to be a\nball. We danced a rigodon as usual, and stopped late with the Governor\nGeneral, who liked to show his interest in these functions, of which the\nFilipinos think so much. There were three bands, which vied with each\nother for applause.\n\nNext morning we got away early on our last leg for Manila and the end of\nour never-to-be-forgotten journey in the Land of Pine and Palm--that\nfar-away, unfamiliar country where your head gets full of strange\nthoughts, your body of queer feelings, and your heart has great\nlongings.\n\nWe crowded everything we could into those few last days in Manila, for\nwe were loath to think of leaving anything undone. Besides packing and\nshopping, there were teas and dinners, and the army and navy reception.\nThis was lovely, for it was held in the courtyard filled with trees\nwhich were hung with dim lanterns. The good looking officers with their\nwhite duck uniforms and brass buttons added to the attractiveness of the\nscene. The men of our party were even busier than we, for they had\nseveral banquets to which we were not invited. In my husband's journal I\nfind the chronicle of a typical day. After describing the events of a\nbusy morning, he says: \"In the afternoon, there was a reception to meet\nthe constabulary, at four; the opening of the new hospital, a most\ncomplete and wonderful one, at half after four; the laying of the corner\nstone at five for the new hotel, which is a very ambitious project and\nwill make all the difference in the world as far as touring in the\nPhilippines is concerned; in the evening, a dinner, and after that a\nreception, and a dance.\"\n\nManila seemed more picturesque, and to have even more atmosphere, as I\ncame to know it better. The old walls and churches and plazas and\ncorners and quarters; the Pasig with its cascos and bancas plying about;\nthe narrow streets winding through the suburbs, with old moss-covered\nwalls, and peeps of tangled gardens within, and balustraded terraces,\nand the bowers of the pink blossoming \"chain of love.\" It is indeed\nwell-named the Pearl of the Orient.\n\n\n\n\nBIBLIOGRAPHY\n\n\nATKINSON, F. W.: The Philippine Islands\n\nALEXANDER, MARY C.: The Story of Hawaii\n\nALEXANDER, W. D.: Brief History of the Hawaiian People\n\nAMERICAN GIRL, AN: Seven Weeks in Hawaii\n\nBANCROFT, HUBERT H.: The New Pacific\n\nBRIGGS, CHARLES W.: Progressive Philippines\n\nBLAIR, EMMA H.: The Philippine Islands\n\nBARRON, DAVID: History of the Philippines\n\nBISHOP, ISABELLA L.: The Hawaiian Archipelago\n\nBLACKMAN, WILLIAM F.: The Making of Hawaii\n\nCOAN, TITUS: Life in Hawaii\n\nCOAN, T. M.: Climate of Hawaii\n\n---- Hawaiian Ethnography\n\nCASTLE, WILLIAM R., JR.: Hawaii Past and Present\n\nCHAMBERS, H. E.: Constitutional History of Hawaii\n\nCROW, CARL: America and the Philippines\n\nCHAMBERLIN, FREDERICK: The Philippine Problem\n\nDAUNCEY, MRS. CAMPBELL: The Philippines\n\nDEVENS, JOHN B.: An Observer in the Philippines\n\nDAY, MRS. E. F.: Princess of Manoa\n\nEMERSON, N. B.: Unwritten Literature of Hawaii\n\nFEE, MARY H.: A Woman's Impressions of the Philippines\n\nFOREMAN, J.: The Philippine Islands\n\nFORNANDER, ABRAHAM: The Polynesian Race\n\nHAWAIIAN ANNUAL for 1915\n\nHAWAIIAN ISLANDS, Report of Commission of Agriculture and Forestry\n\nHAWAII, a Primer--answers to queries\n\nHITCHCOCK, C. H.: Hawaii and its Volcanoes\n\nJERNEGAN, PRESCOTT F.: A Short History of the Philippines\n\nJORDAN AND EDERMANN: Aquatic Resources of Hawaii\n\nLIBRARY OF CONGRESS: List of books on Hawaii\n\nLINDSEY, FORBES: The Philippines\n\nLE ROY, JAMES A.: Philippine Life in Town and Country\n\n---- Americans in the Philippines\n\nLAWRENCE, MARY S.: Old Time Hawaiians and their Wok\n\nLYMAN, H. M.: Hawaiian Yesterdays\n\nMOSES, MRS. M. E. B.: Unofficial Letters of an Official's Wife\n\nMAUS, L. M.: An Army Officer on Leave in Japan\n\nMUSICK, JOHN R.: Hawaii: our New Possession\n\nMATHER, HELEN: One Summer in Hawaii\n\nROBINSON, ALBERT G.: The War and the People\n\nSTODDARD, C. W.: South-sea Idyls\n\nSAWYER, FREDERICK H.: The Inhabitants of the Philippines\n\nSTEVENS, J. E.: Yesterdays in the Philippines\n\nTAFT, MRS. WILLIAM H.: Recollections of Full Years\n\nWESTERVELT, W. E.: Legends of Old Honolulu\n\nWORCESTER, DEAN C.: The Philippines, Past and Present\n\nWILLIAMS, D. R.: The Odyssey of the Philippine Commission\n\nYOUNG, LUCIEN: The Real Hawaii\n\n\n\n\nINDEX\n\n\n A\n\n Agriculture and Forestry, Bureau of, 99\n\n Aguinaldo, Emilio, 159, 173-175, 181-183, 188-193, 195-196, 199, 204\n\n Aldecoa and Company, 265\n\n Alden, C. S. (quoted), 71\n\n Alexander Young Hotel, 20\n\n Amburayan, 270\n\n Anderson, General Thomas, 72, 145, 180, 187, 192\n Captain Tom, 145, 296\n\n Andrews, Louis, 62\n\n Antipolo, 320\n\n Apayao, 270\n\n Archbishop of Manila, 166\n\n Armstrong, Fort, 25\n General, 62\n\n Army and Navy Club, 146, 296\n\n Assembly, 125, 138, 209, 215-217, 236\n\n Asturia, Governor, 351\n\n Atimonan, 307, 308\n\n Augustinian Church, 129\n\n\n B\n\n Babuyan Islands, the, 261\n\n Baginda, Raja, 326\n\n Bagobos, the, 257, 339, 345, 348\n\n Baguio, 213, 246-249, 251, 253, 272\n\n Bahr, Abu, 326\n\n Balangiga, 317\n\n Balintan Channel, 268\n\n Bancoran, 353, 357\n\n Bandholtz, General, 309\n\n Barry, Lieutenant, 340\n\n Bashee Rocks, 261, 262\n\n Batan (islands), 261, 262, 264, 269\n\n Bates, General, 198\n\n Bauang, 247\n\n Bautilan, 328\n\n Bay, Lake of, 131\n\n Beacom, Major, 335\n\n Beardsley, Admiral and Mrs., 16\n\n Benguet, 270\n Road, 247, 249\n\n Berger, Captain, 14, 74\n\n Biacnabato, 174\n Treaty of, 175\n\n Bilibid Prison, 237-239, 241, 242, 313\n\n Bill of Rights, 58\n\n Bingham, Hiram, 10\n\n Bishop, Bernice Pauahi, 11, 72\n Hon. Charles R., 12\n Museum, 11\n\n Black Crook, 249\n\n Blayney, Professor Thomas\n Lindsey (quoted), 220\n\n Boca Chica, 123\n\n Boca Grande, 178\n\n Bohol, 318\n\n Boki, Chief, 10\n\n Bolinao Light, 274\n\n Bonifacio, Andres, 171, 174\n\n Bontoc, 229, 236, 270, 287-289\n\n Book, Captain, 16\n\n Botel Tobago, 262\n\n Brent, Bishop, 132\n\n Brigham, Professor, 11\n\n _Britannia_, the, 51\n\n Bryan, William Jennings, 199, 206-207\n\n Bud Dajo, 350\n\n Buencamino, 183\n\n\n C\n\n Cagayan, 131\n\n Calkins, Mr., 309\n\n Capiz, 360\n\n Carter, General W. H., 26\n Charles L., 78\n George R., 78, 79\n Mr. George, 5\n\n Castle, Mr., 4, 14, 112\n Mrs., 14\n\n _Castilla_, the, 179\n\n Catbalogan, 317\n\n Cavite, 138, 166, 173, 179, 181, 182, 204\n\n Cebu, 150, 152, 318, 320, 322\n\n Celebes Sea, 340\n\n Cervantes, 283, 284\n\n Charcca, the, 317\n\n _Charleston_, the, 269\n\n Chinese, the (in the Philippines), 159\n\n Chino Charlie, 352\n\n Cleghorn, Governor, 15\n\n Cleveland, President, 77\n\n College of Medicine and Surgery, 141\n\n Commission, the (first), 207\n Commission, the second (or Taft), 207, 209-211, 215, 216, 219\n\n Constabulary Band, 125, 137\n\n Cook, Captain (James), 35, 37, 48, 49, 114, 115, 150\n\n Corregidor, 123, 138, 178, 296\n\n Cotobato (river), 340\n town, 341\n\n Cotton, Captain, 16\n\n Cromer, Lord, 221\n\n _Crook_, the, 273, 274\n\n Culion, 232-235\n\n\n D\n\n Dalupiri, 265\n\n Damien, Father, 72\n\n Dampier, William, 152, 262, 327\n\n Darrach, Marshall, 139\n\n Data, Mount, 285\n\n Daughters of Hawaii, the, 22\n\n Davis, Isaac, 50\n\n DeRussy, Fort, 25\n\n Dewey, Admiral, 177-181, 184, 186, 192\n (quoted), 190\n\n _Dewey_, the (dock), 273\n\n Diamond Head, 4, 19, 25\n\n Dickinson, Mr. (Secretary of War), 20, 125, 126, 127, 131, 136, 139,\n 145, 146, 232, 252, 272, 273, 277, 278, 279, 295, 299, 325, 337, 341\n Mrs., 125, 127, 136, 139, 140, 145, 251, 252, 308, 336\n\n Din, Alimund, 328\n\n Ditch Trail, 107\n\n Dole, Rev. Daniel, 8\n Sanford B., 8, 9, 16, 77-79\n\n Dominis, John C., 76\n\n Doyle, Sergeant, 278\n\n Drake, Sir Francis, 151\n\n Duvall, General, 146, 273\n Mrs., 146\n\n\n E\n\n Early, 275\n\n Education, Bureau of, 248\n\n Edwards, General, 131, 272, 300\n\n El Chico de Cagayan River, 287\n\n El Fraile, 178\n\n Emerson (quoted), 42\n\n Emma, Queen, 65, 66\n\n Escolta, the, 130\n\n Ethnology, Bureau of, 141\n\n\n F\n\n \"Father Alexander,\" 106\n\n \"Filipino Republic,\" the, 190\n\n Filipinos, 124, 136, 137, 171, 183, 185-189, 193, 195-196, 201, 215,\n 219, 222, 241, 245, 298, 342\n\n Finch, Captain, 3\n\n Forbes, Governor General Cameron, 125, 127, 131, 139, 212-215, 221,\n 239, 243, 248, 272, 276, 277, 283, 317, 361\n\n Fornander, A. (quoted), 42\n\n Frear, Judge Walter F., 80\n\n French Frigatis Shoal, 66\n\n Funston (General), 25, 199\n\n Furness, Dr., 4\n\n\n G\n\n Gallman, 275, 280\n\n Gilbert, Vice-Governor, 254\n\n Gimbungen (dato), 342\n\n Government Dormitory for Girls, 140\n\n Government Laboratories, Bureau of, 141\n\n Green Lake, 112\n\n Gridley, Captain, 3, 179\n\n Guam, 72, 119, 199, 262\n\n\n H\n\n Halawa, 63\n\n Haleakala, 107\n\n Halemaumau, 60, 110\n\n Hanalei River, 115\n\n Harrison, Governor General, 212, 213, 219\n\n Hauula, 103\n\n Hawaii (island of), 8, 39, 82\n Republic of, 78\n\n Hawaiian Commercial Sugar Company, 81\n\n Hawaiians (ethnology of), 29\n\n Heiberg, Major, 343\n\n Heiser, Dr., 221, 230-232, 234-236, 323\n\n Hilgard, Captain, 251\n\n Hilo, 60, 62, 91, 102, 108, 110, 112\n\n Hina, 35\n\n Hoapili, 62\n\n Honaunau, 113\n\n Honolulu, 4, 5, 6, 9, 10, 21, 25, 65, 67, 72, 102, 103, 104, 181\n\n Hualalai, 113\n\n\n I\n\n Iao Valley, 107\n\n Ide, H. C., 208\n\n Ifugao, 270\n Ifugaos, the, 271, 277, 280-283, 289, 293\n\n Igorots, the, 251, 253, 255, 277, 286, 288-290, 294, 337\n\n Ilocanos, the, 275\n\n Iloilo, 357-358\n\n Ilongots, the, 255, 258-259\n\n Immigration, Bureau of, 100\n\n Inter-Island Navigation Company, 104\n boats, 112\n\n Internal Revenue, Bureau of, 221\n\n Iraya, Mt., 269\n\n Irwin, Mr., 4\n\n Isabella II, Queen, 164\n\n Isola Grande, 273, 274\n\n Itbayat Island, 265\n\n Iwahig River, 240\n\n Iyeyasu, Shogun, 156\n\n\n J\n\n Japanese-American Citizens' Association, 116\n\n Japanese (women laborers), 83-85\n as Hawaiians, 116-118\n\n Jesuits, the, 164, 165, 166\n\n John Hay, Camp, 248, 251\n\n Jones Bill, the, 222\n\n Jota, the, 317\n\n\n K\n\n Kaawaloa, 114\n\n Kahanamoku, Duke, 91\n\n Kahului, 102\n\n Kailua, 53, 114\n\n Kaiulani, Princess, 77\n\n Kakuhihewa, 6\n\n Kalaimoku, 56\n\n Kalakaua, King, 9, 73-75, 81, 118\n Prince, 118\n\n Kalamba, 131, 204\n\n Kalanianaole, Prince Jonah Kuhio, 79\n\n Kalanikupule, 22\n\n Kalinga, 270\n\n Kalingas, the, 271, 272, 289-292\n\n Kaliuwaa, falls of, 103\n\n Kamehameha I (the Great), 6, 11, 22, 48, 50-54, 106\n heiau of, 112\n birthplace of, 114\n\n Kamehameha II, 54, 55, 57\n\n Kamehameha III, 6, 12, 57, 59, 65\n\n Kamehameha IV, 65\n\n Kamehameha V, 72\n\n Kamehameha, Fort, 25\n\n Kamehameha School, 12\n\n Kamehamehas, the, 31\n\n Kanaloa, 34, 39\n\n Kane, 34, 39, 41, 42\n\n Kapiolani, 59, 60, 74\n\n Katipunan, the, 169, 170-173\n\n Kau, 112, 113\n\n Kauai, 8, 71, 82, 115\n\n Kawaiahao Church, 9\n\n Kawaihae, 112\n\n Keanonako, 12, 13\n\n Keawe-Mauhili, 60\n\n Keithley, Camp, 325, 334\n\n Kilauea, 51, 60, 66, 104, 109, 112\n\n Kinau, 12\n\n Kohala, 114\n ditch, 114\n\n Kona, 91, 112, 113, 114\n\n Konia, 12\n\n Kotta, 297\n\n Koxinga, 158\n\n Ku, 39\n\n Kuhio, Prince, 118\n\n\n L\n\n _Lackawanna_, the, 66, 67, 68, 70, 71\n\n Ladrone Islands, the, 116, 150\n\n Lahaina, 106\n\n Laka, 40, 41, 42, 49\n\n Lamb, Mr., 240, 244\n Mrs., 244\n\n Lanao, Lake, 325, 334\n\n Lawton, General, 195\n\n Legarda, Mr., 131, 298\n\n Legaspi, Miguel Lopez de, 152, 153, 158\n Legaspi, 317\n\n Lepanto, 270\n\n Liholiho, 56\n\n Liliuokalani, Queen, 9, 12, 75-78\n\n Li Ma Hong, 156\n\n Lono, 39, 49\n\n Los Banos, 131\n\n Lucena, 298, 302, 307\n\n Lunalilo Home, 12\n Prince, 73\n\n Luneta, the, 126, 146, 185\n\n Luzon, 133, 172, 176, 196, 198, 245, 257, 261, 271, 275, 297\n\n\n M\n\n MacArthur, General, 194, 196, 198\n\n Macfarlane, Mrs., 15\n\n Macomb, General M. M., 25\n\n Magellan, 150, 151\n\n Makadum, 326\n\n Makapuu Point Light, 21\n\n Malabang, 340\n\n Malaca\u00f1an, Palace of, 126, 136\n\n Malays, 149, 154, 245, 326\n\n Malolos, 191, 195\n\n Mandi, Dato, 346\n\n Mangyans, 241\n\n Manila, 123, 124, 128, 152, 156, 157, 159, 160, 166, 171, 173, 186,\n 193, 199, 222, 227, 249, 314, 315, 328\n sight-seeing in, 128-147, 361-362\n\n Manila Bay, 3, 123, 138, 157, 178\n Battle of, 177, 184\n\n Manila-Dagupan Railroad, 315\n\n Manilibang, Dato, 337\n\n Manobos, the, 339, 343, 345\n\n _Marian_, the, 16\n\n Mariveles, 123\n\n Marshall Islands, 116\n\n Maui Island, 8, 40, 44, 51, 62, 81, 82, 106\n East, 107\n demi-god, 35, 40\n\n Mauna Kea, 108\n\n Mauna Loa, 108, 109, 113\n\n Mayon, Mount, 308\n\n _McCulloch_, the, 178\n\n McKimmon, Father, 314\n\n McKinley, Fort, 132, 220\n President, 183, 200, 207, 209\n\n Menehunes, the, 116\n\n Merritt, General, 183, 192\n\n Mexico, 152, 153, 156, 157, 204\n Mexicans, 192\n\n Midway Island (Brooks), 67, 69, 70, 123\n\n Mindanao, 150, 166, 171, 322, 325-327, 331, 339, 340\n\n Mines, Bureau of, 141\n\n Mirador, 253\n\n Mitchell, Major, 266\n\n Moanalua, 25\n\n Molokai, 8, 63, 73, 105\n\n Montojo, Admiral, 179\n\n Moros, the, 124, 150, 171, 209, 222, 241, 245, 322, 325-339, 341, 342,\n 345-348, 350-352\n\n Moro Province, 346\n\n Moses, Professor, 208\n\n Mountain Province, the, 270, 288\n\n Musick (quoted), 18\n\n\n N\n\n Namaka, 23\n\n Nangnui, Hadji, 347, 351\n\n Negritos, 149, 253, 256-257\n\n _Negros_, the, 295\n island of, 359\n\n Neumann, Paul, 15\n\n \"Noli Me Tangere\" (\"The Social Cancer\"), 170\n\n Nozaleda, Archbishop, 184\n\n Nueva Viscaya, 258\n\n Nuuanu, battle of, 22\n valley, 23, 51\n\n\n O\n\n Oahu, 4, 5, 6, 8, 18, 25, 32, 51, 52, 82, 88, 103, 119\n College, 8, 9\n\n Obookiah (Opukahaia), 55\n\n Ocampo, Pablo, 204\n\n \"Occupation Day,\" 296\n\n Olongapo, 273\n\n _Olympia_, the, 4, 178, 179\n\n Osme\u00f1a, Mr., 298\n\n Otis, General, 192, 194, 198\n\n Overton, Camp, 325\n\n\n P\n\n Paahana, 93\n\n Paao, 31, 37\n\n Pack, Governor, 200\n\n Pagsanjan, 131\n\n Paki, 12\n\n Pakuanui, 23\n\n Palawan, 239, 240, 357\n\n Pali, the, 22, 23, 24, 52, 103\n\n Panama Canal, 100, 119\n\n Panay, 357, 359\n\n Papa, 5, 30\n\n Parker, Sam, 15\n\n Pasig River, 127, 128, 225\n\n Patterson, Admiral, 160\n\n Paulet, Lord George, 61\n\n Payne Bill, 358\n\n Pearl Harbour, 21, 22, 24, 32\n\n Pele, 37, 40, 43, 44, 51, 60, 110\n\n Perkins, Commodore, 71\n\n Pershing, General, 349\n\n _Philadelphia_, the, 16\n\n Philip II, 151\n\n Philip III, 177\n\n Philip V, 328\n\n Philippine General Hospital, 141\n\n Piang, Dato, 326, 342\n\n Pili, 31\n\n Pinkham, Governor, 80\n\n Plaza McKinley, 129\n\n Poison God, the, 105\n\n Polo Club, 131\n\n Polynesia, 30, 39, 40\n\n Polynesians, 29, 30\n\n Puerto Princessa, 240\n\n Punahou, 8\n\n Punchbowl, 4, 19, 20, 103\n\n\n Q\n\n Queen's Hospital, 9, 65\n\n Quezon, Mr., 298, 301\n\n\n R\n\n Reciprocity Treaty, 24, 73, 81, 100\n\n _Reina Christina_, the, 179\n\n Reynolds, Captain William, 69\n\n Rivera, Primo de, 175\n\n Rizal, 131, 170-172\n\n Rizal, the, 296, 308, 309, 318, 322, 343, 354, 358\n\n Rojesvenski, Admiral, 269\n\n Root, Elihu, 300\n\n Royal Hawaiian Band, 14, 74\n\n Royal Hawaiian Hotel, the, 6\n\n Ruger, Fort, 25\n\n Russell, Sturgis, Oliphant and Company, 308\n\n Ruth, Princess, 81\n\n\n S\n\n Sacaluran, Dato, 347\n\n _Saginaw_, the, 71\n\n Samar, 317\n\n Sandwich Islands, 49\n\n San Lazaro, 157, 227, 231\n\n San Mateo, 195\n\n San Miguel, 130\n\n Santa Cruz, 195\n\n Santa Maria Cristina, 334\n\n Santiago, Fort, 172\n\n Sargent, Major, 340\n\n School of Arts and Trades, the, 312\n\n Science, Bureau of, 141, 142, 353\n\n Seaman's Act, 86\n\n Sepulchre, Padre, 286\n\n Sewall, Mr., 16\n\n Shafter, Fort, 25\n\n Shark King (story of), 45-47\n\n Sibley, Miss, 133\n\n Sicard, Lieutenant-Commander, 71\n\n Sokabe, Rev. S. (quoted), 117\n\n Spain, 155, 156, 158, 159, 167, 168, 175, 218\n\n Spreckles, Mr. Claus, 81\n\n Stevens, Mr. (Minister to Hawaii), 76\n\n Stoddard, Charles W. (quoted), 24\n\n Strong, Dr. Richard P., 229\n\n Subig Bay, 178, 273\n\n Suez Canal, the, 156, 164\n\n Sugar Planters' Association, 99\n\n Sulu, 326, 350\n Sea, 322, 353\n Sultan of, 326\n\n Sy Cip, Mr. Alfonso Tarata, 320\n\n\n T\n\n Taft, President, 126, 137, 207-209\n\n Tagalogs, the (Tagals), 139, 165, 167\n\n Tagudin, 274, 276, 295\n\n Talbot, Lieutenant, 71\n\n Tantalus, Mt., 19\n\n Thatcher, Rear Admiral, 67\n\n Thomas, Admiral, 61\n\n _Times_, the Manila, 216, 349\n\n Tingians, the, 256, 257\n\n Tobaco, 309\n\n Topside, 249\n\n Trail and Mountain Club, 103\n\n Treaty of Paris, the (c. 1762), 159\n 1899, 206, 207\n\n Twain, Mark (quoted), 8, 105\n\n\n V\n\n Vancouver, Captain George, 50, 51\n\n Villaloboz, Ruy Lopez de, 151\n\n Visayas, the, 176\n\n\n W\n\n Wahaula (temple of), 37\n\n Wahiawa, 103\n\n Waialua, 92, 95, 97, 98\n\n Waianae, 82\n\n Waikiki, 10, 15, 17, 20, 25, 103\n\n Wailuku, 106\n\n Waimanu (valley), 115\n\n Waimea, 115\n Gulch, 115\n\n Waipio (valley), 115\n\n Wakea, 4, 5, 30\n\n Wekolo Pond, 32\n\n Welles, Mr., 67\n\n White, Dr., 253\n\n Whitmarsh, Mrs., 250\n Mr., 251\n\n Widemann, Judge, 4, 14, 82\n\n Wilcox, Robert W., 73\n rebellion, 73\n\n Wilder, Mrs., 15\n\n Wilson, President, 79, 212\n\n Wisser, General J. P., 26\n\n Wood, General, 325\n\n Worcester, Mr. Dean C., 141, 142, 208, 213, 218, 228, 248, 272, 286, 300\n (quoted), 167, 217, 221, 257, 292, 348, 356\n\n Wright, Luke E., 208\n\n\n Y\n\n Ynock, 342\n\n Yongs, Mr., 160\n\n Young, Captain Lucien, 74\n\n Young, John, 50\n\n\n Z\n\n Zamboanga, 331, 343, 349\n\n\n\n\nFOOTNOTES:\n\n\n[1] When the mamo became rare the natives began to substitute the light\nyellow feathers growing under the wings of the _o-o_. This bird is now\nextinct.\n\n[2] In the first Reciprocity Treaty with Hawaii, which was signed in\nGrant's administration, there was no reference to Pearl Harbour. It was\nwhen the treaty was renewed in a revised form during the administration\nof President Harrison, that Hawaii ceded Pearl Harbour to the United\nStates as a naval base.\n\n[3] General M. M. Macomb was in command from 1911 to 1913, General\nFrederick Funston during 1914, General W. H. Carter followed and General\nJ. P. Wisser is there in command to-day.\n\n[4] Even to a late date this custom has been known in civilized\ncountries. In France a figure of one's enemy was modeled in wax and was\nslowly melted before the fire while being \"prayed to death.\"\n\n[5] The legend which ascribes the creation of man to Kane is only one of\nmany Hawaiian creation myths, in which other gods figure as fathers of\nthe human race.\n\n[6] A. Fornander, \"The Polynesian Race.\"\n\n[7] Guam belonged to Spain until Colonel Thomas Anderson stopped there\non his way to the Philippines with the first United States troops. The\nSpanish governor had not even heard that war was declared, and when the\nships fired, he thought it was a salute in his honour. He surrendered\nthe fifteen small islands; fourteen were given back to Spain in the\nTreaty of Paris and they were sold to Germany. Guam has an excellent\nharbour. It is under the control of the United States Navy at present.\nMarines are stationed there.\n\n[8] The party at present in power in the United States appears to have\ngiven very little attention to the Islands, except as a source of income\nfor deserving Democrats, if we may judge from the latest Democratic\nplatform. That document contains the promise, \"as soon as practicable,\nto give a territorial form of government to Hawaii.\" For eighteen years\nthey have had it!\n\n[9] When Mr. Dole's term as United States judge expired a few months\nago, President Wilson refused to reappoint him, though all Hawaii\npetitioned for him. The position was given to a Democrat.\n\n[10] Castle says Halemaumau really means, \"home of the _Maumau_ fern,\"\nthis fern having a leaf much like the curled and twisted lava in shape.\n\n[11] A trip to the Lake of Bay should be taken and to the fertile valley\nof the Cagayan. The gorge of Pagsanjan is very beautiful. Los Banos is\nan old bathing establishment not far from Kalamba, where Rizal was born.\nIt is part of a day's trip from Manila to this hot mineral spring, which\nwas a fashionable resort in days gone by. Now an American military\nhospital has been built there.\n\n[12] The American coloured troops in the Philippines certainly deserve\nmention. They were among the best fighters we sent out there.\n\n[13] Koxinga was really one of the most noted characters of the Orient\nat that time. He was the son of a Japanese mother and a Chinese father,\nand seldom has China had a man to compare with him in courage,\nenterprise and ability. At the age of twenty-two, he held one of the\nhighest military commands in his country. With his courage and natural\nability it was his purpose to carve out a kingdom for himself. Being as\nshrewd as he was bold, Koxinga made the acquaintance of a Dominican\nfriar in Amoy, whom he converted into an ambassador and sent to Manila.\nFortunately for the Spaniards, Koxinga's career was cut short by his\nearly death, in 1662, while still under forty years of age, and just as\nhe was making preparations to invade the Philippines.\n\n[14] To-day Aguinaldo seems to be a thoroughly \"reconstructed rebel,\" as\nthis incident told by General Anderson's daughter shows:\n\n\"While spending the day with friends who have a sugar estate near\nKalamba, our party was augmented by Aguinaldo, Pablo Ocampo and another\nilustrado whose name I've forgotten. They had come over from Cavite,\nwhere Aguinaldo has his farm, to see this estate with its modern sugar\nmachinery. After going over the farm very thoroughly with the party I\nfound myself next the former General at lunch. Conversation was\ndifficult, as he spoke no English and not very fluent Spanish. I timidly\nasked him in desperation of something to say, if he remembered my\nfather. On learning that he was the first Americano General to fight\nhim, over fifteen years before, he became most interested, and asked\nvery warmly to be remembered. When I told him my father was also retired\nand settled on his little farm he was pleased and said it was the real\nlife. I think he is sincerely a farmer and will not be lured back to the\nhazards of political life. He is a modest, quiet, diffident little\nnative of the pure Filipino type. He assured me that his children were\nmaking good progress in English and were at school working hard.\"\n\n[15] After Mr. Taft had made his journey to Rome to arrange the friar\nland question, he received a remarkable ovation upon his return to the\nPhilippines. When he was appointed Secretary of War, Manila was flooded\nwith posters bearing the words, in various languages, \"We want Taft,\"\nand such a host of petitions from influential citizens was sent to\nWashington that Mr. Roosevelt canceled the appointment. It was not until\nsome time later that it was renewed and Mr. Taft left the Philippines to\ntake his seat in the Cabinet at Washington.\n\n[16] It is difficult to realize the importance of the mestizo class in\nthe Philippines. There are about seventy-five thousand Spanish mestizos\nand half a million Chinese mestizos.\n\n[17] Any one who is inclined to regret American rule in the Islands is\ncordially invited to read chapter sixteen in Dean Worcester's book, \"The\nPhilippines, Past and Present.\"\n\n[18] The cause of the pneumonic plague is so little known that it may be\ninteresting to mention it here. The disease, it is said, is carried by\nmarmots. It had not broken out since the fourteenth century, because\nManchu hunters had for generations been taught not to kill marmots for\nthis very reason. But in late years, with the great demand for furs, new\nhunters who knew nothing of this, killed the diseased marmots and so\ncaused an epidemic.\n\n[19] The name \"Bashee,\" originally applied to the Batan Islands, was\nderived from an intoxicating drink of that name made from sugar-cane and\nberries. It is still used very liberally, especially on all festal\noccasions. When Dampier's ships first touched these shores the _Bashee_\nwas highly regarded by these ancient mariners.\n\n[20] Although we think of Japanese territory as far away from ours, here\nit approaches within sixty miles, as I have said, and within twenty-four\nmiles of Guam the Japanese have lately occupied the former German\nislands of the Mariana group. In Bering Straits we are within three\nmiles of Russian territory. There are two islands, the Diomedes, in the\ncenter of the strait, one of which is owned by Russia and the other by\nthe United States. We usually consider both Japan and Russia very far\noff, but their possessions are in fact almost as near ours as Canada and\nMexico.\n\n[21] An interesting passage from Worcester describes this Kalinga dance\nwith more detail:\n\n\"Into the ring steps the hero of the occasion, dressed in his best\nclothes, decked with his gaudiest ornaments, and bearing the shield,\nlance and head-ax used in the recent fights. Behind him there creeps\nalong the ground a strange, shrinking figure, clad in soiled garments,\nwith a dirty cotton blanket pulled over its head. The hero attracts\nattention to himself by emitting a squall which resembles nothing so\nmuch as the yell of a puppy when its tail is heavily trodden upon. He\nthen begins to speak in a monotonous and highly artificial voice, the\ntone and cadences of which are strongly suggestive of those of a\nJapanese actor. With word and gesture he describes his recent exploit,\nusing the shrinking figure beside him as a dummy to represent his fallen\nfoe. When he stops for breath the ganzas strike up again, and when their\nclangour ceases he resumes his narrative. After concluding his\npantomimic discussion of his latest exploit, he describes and boasts of\nprevious achievements. Incidentally he indulges in high stepping and\nhigh jumping and displays deadly skill in the manipulation of his\nweapons. The crowd grows even more excited and, during the intervals\nwhile the ganzas are playing, shrieks its approval and shrills its\nmonotonous war cry. Finally when his voice has grown hoarse and his\nmuscles are tired, the principal actor retires and another takes his\nplace. As darkness comes on, a blazing fire is lighted within the ca\u00f1ao\ncircle.\n\n\"Ultimately the young and vigorous warriors who participated in the\nrecent fight are succeeded by the old men, who have been kept at home by\nthe burden of years and infirmities. Strong drink has caused the dying\nfire in their veins to flare up for the moment. Each of them has a\nhistory of warlike deeds, which he proceeds to recount. The crowd\nalready knows his story by heart, and when the forgetfulness of age or\nthat of intoxication causes him to falter, prompts him and shouts with\nlaughter at the joke.\n\n\"Gradually the _basi_ begins to exert its stupefying effect; but so long\nas the music and dancing, and the shouting continue every one manages to\nkeep awake. At last, food is passed, and in the interval during which it\nis being consumed the liquor gets a fair chance to work. As the east\nbegins to glow with the coming dawn, men and women fall asleep in their\nplaces, or hasten to their homes, and the ca\u00f1ao ends, for the time being\nat least.\"\n\n[22] It is not so well known in this country as in the Far East that the\nfine code of laws which we have given the Philippines was drafted by our\ngreat statesman, Elihu Root, with the aid of some suggestions from Mr.\nWorcester.\n\n[23] I have taken a few remarks from several speeches.\n\n[24] The ascent of Mt. Mayon is dangerous except for experienced\nmountain climbers. The vista from the summit is said to surpass even the\nfamous view from Mt. \u00c6tna.\n\n[25] The Santo Ni\u00f1o of Cebu has a famous rival in the village of\nAntipolo where \"Our Lady of Peace and Prosperous Voyages\" is found. This\nimage was brought to the Islands in 1626 by the Spanish government. It\nis said the Virgin has crossed the Pacific eight times to and from\nMexico and each time \"calmed a tempest.\"\n\n[26] This great missionary is buried on the island of Sibutu.\n\n[27] Worcester writes in regard to fishing: \"There are barracudas of\nseven different species, some of which attain a length of six feet and\nweigh a hundred pounds or more. Bonitos of four different species have\nbeen taken, and afford fine sport. Croakers and groupers (locally known\nas _lapu-lapu_) are found in great variety. Hardtails and leather-jacks,\ncommonly called _dorados_, are also very abundant. They take the spoon\nfreely and fight well. There are also several species of mackerel and\n_pampano_, which are excellent table fish; and snappers, of which we\nhave thirty-four known species. The large red snappers fight well.\nSea-bass of two distinct species are common. Specimens weighing fifty to\nseventy-five pounds are frequently seen in the markets. The largest\nspecimen as yet recorded from the Islands weighed three hundred\nthirty-four and a fourth pounds.\n\n\"Swordfish, nine feet or more in length, may be taken during the cooler\nmonths. Tarpons up to five feet in length may be taken at the proper\nseason, off the mouths of large streams. The species are distinct from\nthat found in Atlantic waters, and the young take the fly freely.\n\n\"The great, or leaping, tunas are met with in large schools during the\nwinter months. The natives call them _cachareta_.\"","title":"The Spell of the Hawaiian Islands and the Philippines","tradition":"myth-cosmogony","translated_text":null,"word_count":79037}