{"collection":"myth-cosmogony","full_text_available":true,"graph_url":"https://unchartedknowledge.5gfusion.net/v2/api/page/gutenberg_42893/graph","html_url":"https://unchartedknowledge.5gfusion.net/v2/page/gutenberg_42893","id":"gutenberg_42893","license":"Public Domain (US)","rights_basis":"gutenberg_metadata_copyright_false","source":"gutenberg","source_url":"https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/42893","summary":null,"tags":["Adams, Mount (Wash.)","Cascade Range","Category: History - American","Category: Mythology, Legends & Folklore","Category: Nature/Gardening/Animals","Category: Travel Writing","Columbia River","Hood, Mount (Or.)","Saint Helens, Mount (Wash.)"],"text":"Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this file\n      which includes the more than 200 original illustrations.\n      See 42893-h.htm or 42893-h.zip:\n      (https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/42893/pg42893-images.html)\n      or\n      (https://www.gutenberg.org/files/42893/42893-h.zip)\n\n\n      Images of the original pages are available through\n      Internet Archive. See\n      https://archive.org/details/guardiansofcolu00willrich\n\n\nTranscriber's note:\n\n      Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).\n\n      Text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=).\n\n\n\n\n\nTHE GUARDIANS OF THE COLUMBIA\n\n           *       *       *       *       *\n\nTHE MOUNTAIN\n\n\n    I hold above a careless land\n            The menace of the skies;\n    Within the hollow of my hand\n            The sleeping tempest lies.\n    Mine are the promise of the morn,\n            The triumph of the day;\n    And parting sunset's beams forlorn\n            Upon my heights delay.\n                       --Edward Sydney Tylee\n\n           *       *       *       *       *\n\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT DR. U. M. LAUMAN\n\nDawn on Spirit Lake, north side of Mt. St. Helens.\n\n    \"Night's candles are burnt out, and jocund day\n          Stands tiptoe on the misty mountain tops.\" Shakespeare.]\n\n\nTHE GUARDIANS OF THE COLUMBIA\n\nMount Hood, Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens\n\nby\n\nJOHN H. WILLIAMS\n\nAuthor of \"The Mountain That Was 'God'\"\n\n\n    _And mountains that like giants stand\n    To sentinel enchanted land._\n              SCOTT: \"The Lady of the Lake.\"\n\n\nWith More Than Two Hundred Illustrations\nIncluding Eight in Colors\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTacoma\nJohn H. Williams\n1912\n\n\n\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nClimbing the last steep slope on Mount Hood, from Cooper's Spur, with\nropes anchored on summit.]\n\n    Copyright, 1912, by John H. Williams\n\n\n\n[Illustration: Willamette River at Portland, with ships loading wheat\nand lumber for foreign ports.]\n\n\n\n\nFOREWORD\n\n\nIn offering this second volume of a proposed series on Western mountain\nscenery, I am fortunate in having a subject as unhackneyed as was that\nof \"The Mountain that Was 'God.'\" The Columbia River has been described\nin many publications about the Northwest, but the three fine snow-peaks\nguarding its great canyon have received scant attention, and that mainly\nfrom periodicals of local circulation.\n\nThese peaks are vitally a part of the vast Cascade-Columbia scene to\nwhich they give a climax. Hence the story here told by text and picture\nhas necessarily included the stage upon which they were built up. And\nsince the great forests of this mountain and river district are a factor\nof its beauty as well as its wealth, I am glad to be able to present a\nbrief chapter about them from the competent hand of Mr. H. D. Langille,\nformerly of the United States forest service. A short bibliography, with\nnotes on transportation routes, hotels, guides and other matters of\ninterest to travelers and students, will be found at the end.\n\nAccuracy has been my first aim. I have tried to avoid the exaggeration\nemployed in much current writing for the supposed edification of\ntourists. It has seemed to me that simply and briefly to tell the truth\nabout the fascinating Columbia country would be the best service I could\nrender to those who love its splendid mountains and its noble river. A\nmass of books, government documents and scientific essays has been\nexamined. This literature is more or less contradictory, and as I cannot\nhope to have avoided all errors, I shall be grateful for any correction\nof my text.\n\nIn choosing the illustrations, I have sought to show the individuality\nof each peak. Mountains, like men, wear their history on their\nfaces,--none more so than Hood's sharp and finely scarred pyramid; or\nAdams, with its wide, truncated dome and deeply carved slopes; or St.\nHelens, newest of all our extinct volcanoes--if, indeed, it be\nextinct,--and least marred by the ice, its cone as perfect as\nFujiyama's. Each has its own wonderful story to tell of ancient and\noften recent vulcanism. Let me again suggest that readers who would get\nthe full value of the more comprehensive illustrations will find a\nreading glass very useful.\n\nThanks are due to many helpers. More than fifty photographers,\nprofessional and amateur, are named in the table of illustrations.\nWithout their co-operation the book would have been impossible. I am\nalso indebted for valued information and assistance to the librarians at\nthe Portland and Tacoma public libraries, the officers and members of\nthe several mountaineering clubs in Portland, and the passenger\ndepartments of the railways reaching that city; to Prof. Harry Fielding\nReid, the eminent geologist of Johns Hopkins University; Fred G.\nPlummer, geographer of the United States forest service; Dr. George Otis\nSmith, director of the United States geological survey; Judge Harrington\nPutnam, of New York, president of the American Alpine Club; Messrs.\nRodney L. Glisan, William M. Ladd, H. O. Stabler, T. H. Sherrard, Judge\nW. B. Gilbert, H. L. Pittock, George H. Himes, John Gill, C. E. Rusk,\nand others in Portland and elsewhere.\n\nThe West has much besides magnificent scenery to give those who visit\nit. Here have been played, upon a grander stage, the closing acts in the\ngreat drama of state-building which opened three hundred years ago on\nthe Atlantic Coast. The setting has powerfully moulded the history, and\nwe must know one if we would understand the other. Europe, of course,\noffers to the American student of culture and the arts something which\ntravel here at home cannot supply. But every influence that brings the\ndifferent sections of the United States into closer touch and fuller\nsympathy makes for patriotism and increased national strength.\n\nThis, rather than regret for the two hundred millions of dollars which\nour tourists spend abroad each year, is the true basis of the \"See\nAmerica First\" movement. According to his capacity, the tourist commonly\ngets value for his money, whether traveling in Europe or America. But\nEastern ignorance of the West is costing the country more than the drain\nof tourist money.\n\nThis volume is presented, therefore, as a call to better appreciation of\nthe splendor and worth of our own land. Its publication will be\njustified if it is found to merit in some degree the commendation given\nits predecessor by Prof. W. D. Lyman, of Whitman College, whose\ndelightful book on the Columbia has been consulted and whose personal\nadvice has been of great value throughout my work. \"I wish to express\nthe conviction,\" writes Prof. Lyman, \"that you have done an inestimable\nservice to all who love beauty, and who stand for those higher things\namong our possessions that cannot be measured in money, but which have\nan untold bearing upon the finer sensibilities of a nation.\"\n\nTacoma, June 15, 1912.\n\n[Illustration: Mount Adams, seen from south slope of Mount St. Helens,\nnear the summit, showing the Cascade ranges below. Note the great burn\nin the forest cover of the ridges. \"Steamboat Mountain\" is seen in the\ndistance beyond. Elevation of camera, nearly 9,000 feet.]\n\n\n\n\n[Illustration: Looking up the Columbia at Lyle, Washington.]\n\n\n\n\nCONTENTS\n\n\n  I. THE RIVER.\n\n    Dawn at Cloud Cap Inn--The geological dawn--Cascade-Sierra\n    uptilt--Rise of the snow-peaks--An age of vulcanism--Origin\n    of the great Columbia gorge--Dawn in Indian legend--The\n    \"Bridge of the Gods\"--Victory of Young Chinook--Dawn of\n    modern history--The pioneers and the state builders             15\n\n\n  II. THE MOUNTAINS.\n\n    Portland's snowy sentinels--Ruskin on the mountains--Cascades\n    vs. Alps--Mount Hood and its retreating glaciers--The\n    Mazamas--A shattered crater--Mount Adams--Lava and ice\n    caves--Mount St. Helens--The struggle of the forest on the\n    lava beds--Adventures of the climbers--The Mazamas in\n    peril--An heroic rescue                                         57\n\n\n  III. THE FORESTS, by HAROLD DOUGLAS LANGILLE.\n\n    Outposts at timber line--The alpine parks--Zone of the great\n    trees--Douglas fir--From snow-line to ocean beach--Conservation\n    and reforestation                                              123\n\n\n  NOTES                                                          140\n\n\n\n\nILLUSTRATIONS\n\n\nThe * indicates engravings from copyrighted photographs. See notice\nunder the illustration.\n\nTHREE-COLOR HALFTONES.\n\n        Title                                    Photographer    Page\n  *Dawn on Spirit Lake, north side of Mount\n          St. Helens                   Dr. U. M. Lauman  Frontispiece\n  *St. Peter's Dome, with the Columbia and\n          Mount Adams                             G. M. Weister    20\n  *Nightfall on the Columbia                     Kiser Photo Co.   37\n  *Columbia River and Mount Hood, from White\n          Salmon,  Washington                    Kiser Photo Co.   56\n  *Mount Hood, with crevasses of Eliot glacier     G. M. Weister   73\n  *Ice Castle and crevasse, Eliot glacier          G. M. Weister   92\n  *Columbia River and Mount Adams, from Hood\n          River, Oregon                         Benj. A. Gifford  109\n  An Island of Color--Rhododendrons and Squaw\n          Grass                                    Asahel Curtis  127\n\n\nONE-COLOR HALFTONES.\n\n        Title                                     Photographer   Page\n\n  *Climbing to summit of Mount Hood from Cooper\n          Spur                                     G. M. Weister    6\n  Willamette River and Portland Harbor             G. M. Weister    7\n  Mount Adams, from south slope of Mount St.\n          Helens                                   G. M. Weister    8\n  Columbia River at Lyle                         William R. King    9\n  Mount Hood, seen from the Columbia at\n          Vancouver                             L. C. Henrichsen   14\n  Trout Lake and Mount Adams           Prof. Harry Fielding Reid   15\n  Mount St. Helens, seen from the Columbia,\n  with railway bridge                               C. S. Reeves   15\n  *View up the Columbia, opposite Astoria          G. M. Weister   16\n  Astoria in 1813                              From an old print   16\n  *View north from Eliot glacier                   G. M. Weister   17\n  Columbia Slough, near mouth of the\n          Willamette                            George F. Holman   18\n  *Cape Horn                                     Kiser Photo Co.   19\n  Mount Hood, seen from Columbia Slough         L. C. Henrichsen   21\n  *Campfire of Yakima Indians at Astoria\n          Centennial                             Frank Woodfield   21\n  Sunset at mouth of the Columbia                Frank Woodfield   22\n  Portland, the Willamette, and Mounts\n          Hood, Adams and St. Helens           Angelus Photo Co.   22\n  \"The Coming of the White Man\"                 L. C. Henrichsen   23\n  \"Sacajawea\"                                      G. M. Weister   23\n  Sunset on Vancouver Lake                    Jas. Waggener, Jr.   24\n  Fort Vancouver in 1852                  From an old lithograph   24\n  *Rooster Rock                                    G. M. Weister   25\n  Seining for Salmon on the lower Columbia       Frank Woodfield   25\n  *The Columbia near Butler, looking\n          across to Multnomah Falls              Kiser Photo Co.   26\n  Captain Som-kin, chief of Indian police         Lee Moorehouse   26\n  *Multnomah Falls in Summer and Winter (2)      Kiser Photo Co.   27\n  *View from the cliffs at Multnomah Falls       Kiser Photo Co.   28\n  *The broad Columbia, seen from Lone Rock       Kiser Photo Co.   29\n  Castle Rock, seen from Mosquito Island         Kiser Photo Co.   29\n  *The Columbia opposite Oneonta Gorge and\n          Horsetail Falls                        Kiser Photo Co.   30\n  An Original American                            C. C. Hutchins   30\n  *View from elevation west of St. Peter's\n          Dome                                   Kiser Photo Co.   31\n  *Oneonta Gorge                                   G. M. Weister   32\n  Looking up the Columbia, near Bonneville          H. J. Thorne   33\n  Salmon trying to jump the Falls of the\n          Willamette                          Jas. Waggener, Jr.   33\n  *In the Columbia Canyon at Cascade             Kiser Photo Co.   34\n  *The Cascades of the Columbia                    G. M. Weister   35\n  *Fishwheel below the Cascades, with\n          Table Mountain                           G. M. Weister   36\n  *Sunrise on the Columbia, from top of\n          Table Mountain                         Kiser Photo Co.   36\n  Looking down the Columbia below the\n          Cascades                                   L. J. Hicks   38\n  *Wind Mountain and submerged forest              G. M. Weister   39\n  Steamboat entering Cascades Locks                G. M. Weister   39\n  Moonlight on the Columbia, with clouds\n          on Wind Mountain                          C. S. Reeves   40\n  *White Salmon River and its Gorge (2)          Kiser Photo Co.   41\n  Looking down the Columbia Canyon from\n          White Salmon, Washington                  S. C. Reeves   42\n  An Oregon Trout Stream                        L. C. Henrichsen   42\n  Looking up the Columbia from Hood\n          River, Oregon                             F. C. Howell   43\n  *Hood River, fed by the glaciers of\n          Mount Hood                            Benj. A. Gifford   43\n  A Late Winter Afternoon; the Columbia\n          from White Salmon                       C. C. Hutchins   44\n  *Memaloose Island                                G. M. Weister   44\n  \"Gateway to the Inland Empire;\" the\n          Columbia at Lyle                       Kiser Photo Co.   45\n  \"Grant Castle\" and Palisades of the\n          Columbia below The Dalles                G. M. Weister   46\n  *The Dalles of the Columbia, lower\n          channel                                  G. M. Weister   47\n  Cabbage Rock                                    Lee Moorehouse   47\n  A True Fish Story of the Columbia              Frank Woodfield   48\n  The Zigzag River in Winter                      T. Brook White   48\n  *The Dalles, below Celilo                        G. M. Weister   49\n  The \"Witch's Head,\" an Indian picture rock      Lee Moorehouse   50\n  Village of Indian tepees, Umatilla Reservation  Lee Moorehouse   50\n  Mount Adams, seen from Eagle Peak                Asahel Curtis   51\n  A Clearing in the Forest; Mount Hood from\n          Sandy, Oregon                         L. C. Henrichsen   51\n  An Indian Madonna and Child                     Lee Moorehouse   52\n  Finished portion of Canal at Celilo             Ed. Ledgerwood   52\n  *Sentinels of \"the Wallula Gateway\"              G. M. Weister   53\n  *Tumwater, the falls of the Columbia at\n          Celilo                                 Kiser Photo Co.   54\n  *Summit of Mount Hood, from west end\n          of ridge                                 G. M. Weister   55\n  North side of Mount Hood, from ridge west\n          of Cloud Cap Inn                      George R. Miller   57\n  Winter on Mount Hood                          Rodney L. Glisan   57\n  *Watching the Climbers, from Cloud Cap Inn       G. M. Weister   58\n  Lower end of Eliot glacier, seen from\n          Cooper Spur                            E. D. Jorgensen   59\n  Snout of Eliot glacier                       Prof. W. D. Lyman   59\n  Cone of Mount Hood, seen from Cooper Spur       F. W. Freeborn   60\n  Cloud Cap Inn                                 George R. Miller   60\n  *Portland's White Sentinel, Mount Hood           G. M. Weister   61\n  *Ice Cascade on Eliot glacier, Mount Hood        G. M. Weister   62\n  Portland Snow-shoe Club members on Eliot\n          glacier in Winter                     Rodney L. Glisan   62\n  *Snow-bridge over great crevasse, Eliot\n          glacier                                  G. M. Weister   63\n  *Coasting down east side of Mount Hood,\n          above Cooper Spur.                       G. M. Weister   63\n  *Mount Hood, from hills south of The\n          Dalles                                   G. M. Weister   64\n  *Mount Hood, from Larch Mountain                   L. J. Hicks   65\n  Butterfly on summit of Mount Hood                  Shoji Endow   66\n  Portland Snow-shoe Club and Club House (2)    Rodney L. Glisan   66\n  Fumarole, or gas vent, near Crater Rock            L. J. Hicks   66\n  Looking across the head of Eliot glacier           Shoji Endow   67\n  Mount Hood at night, from Cloud Cap Inn        William M. Ladd   67\n  Climbing Mount Hood; the rope anchor (2)\n                                George R. Miller and Shoji Endow   68\n  North side of Mount Hood, from moraine of\n          Coe glacier                  Prof. Harry Fielding Reid   69\n  *Looking west on summit, with Mazama\n          Rock below                               G. M. Weister   70\n  Summit of Mount Hood, from Mazama Rock          F. W. Freeborn   70\n  Mount Hood, from Sandy Canyon                      L. J. Hicks   71\n  Crevasses of Coe glacier (2)                  Mary C. Voorhees   72\n  *Crevasse and Ice Pinnacles on Eliot glacier     G. M. Weister   74\n  Mount Hood, seen from the top of Barret Spur\n                                       Prof. Harry Fielding Reid   75\n  Ice Cascade, south side of Mount Hood      Prof. J. N. LeConte   75\n  Little Sandy or Reid glacier, west side of\n          Mount Hood                              Elisha Coalman   76\n  Portland Y. M. C. A. party starting for\n          the summit                               A. M. Grilley   76\n  Crater of Mount Hood, seen from south\n          side                                       L. J. Hicks   77\n  South side of Mount Hood, from\n          Tom-Dick-and-Harry Ridge                L. E. Anderson   78\n  Crag on which above view was taken                H. J. Thorne   78\n  Part of the \"bergschrund\" above Crater Rock      G. M. Weister   79\n  Prof. Reid and party exploring Zigzag glacier    Asahel Curtis   79\n  Mazamas near Crater Rock (2)                     Asahel Curtis   80\n  Portland Ski Club on south side of Mount Hood  E. D. Jorgensen   81\n  Mount Hood Lily                              William L. Finley   81\n  Mazama party exploring White River\n          glacier (2)                              Asahel Curtis   82\n  Newton Clark glacier, seen from Cooper Spur        Shoji Endow   83\n  Looking from Mount Jefferson to Mount Hood         L. J. Hicks   83\n  *Shadow of Mount Hood                            G. M. Weister   84\n  Snout of Newton Clark glacier        Prof. Harry Fielding Reid   84\n  *Mount Hood and Hood River                    Benj. A. Gifford   85\n  Lava Flume near Trout Lake                      Ray M. Filloon   86\n  Y. M. C. A. party from North Yakima at Red\n          Butte                                  Eugene Bradbury   86\n  Ice Cave in lava bed near Trout Lake            Ray M. Filloon   87\n  *Mount Adams, from northeast side of Mount\n          St. Helens                               G. M. Weister   88\n  Mount Adams, from Trout Creek at Guler             L. J. Hicks   89\n  Climbers on South Butte                         Ray M. Filloon   89\n  Dawn on Mount Adams, telephotographed from\n          Guler at 4 a.m.                            L. J. Hicks   90\n  Foraging in the Snow                           Crissie Cameron   90\n  *Steel's Cliff, southeast side of Mount Hood     G. M. Weister   91\n  Mazamas Climbing Mount Adams                     Asahel Curtis   93\n  Mount Adams from lake, with hotel site above         Ed. Hess    93\n  Climbing from South Peak to Middle Peak           L. J. Hicks    94\n  Mount Adams, seen from Happy Valley             Asahel Curtis    94\n  Mount Adams, from Snow-plow Mountain                 Ed. Hess    95\n  *Wind-whittled Ice near summit of Mount Adams     S. C. Smith    95\n  Mazama glacier and Hellroaring Canyon (2)     William R. King    96\n  Nearing the Summit of Mount Adams, south side     Shoji Endow    97\n  Ice Cascade, above Klickitat glacier           Ray M. Filloon    97\n  An Upland Park                                  H. O. Stabler    97\n  Mount Adams and Klickitat glacier   Prof. Harry Fielding Reid    98\n  Storm on Klickitat glacier, seen from the\n          Ridge of Wonders                    Prof. W. D. Lyman    99\n  Snow Cornice and Crevasse, head of\n          Klickitat glacier (2)  H. V. Abel and Ray M. Filloon    100\n  Mount Adams, from the Northeast     Prof. Harry Fielding Reid   101\n  *Mount Adams, from Sunnyside, Washington        Asahel Curtis   102\n  Crevasse in Lava glacier                      Eugene Bradbury   102\n  North Peak, with the Mountaineers\n          starting for the summit                  W. M. Gorham   103\n  Snow-bridge over Killing Creek                   W. H. Gorham   103\n  Route up the Cleaver, north side of\n          Mount Adams                           Eugene Bradbury   104\n  Looking across Adams glacier                    Carlyle Ellis   104\n  \"The Mountain that was 'God'\" seen from\n          Mount Adams                             Asahel Curtis   105\n  Northwest slope of Mount Adams      Prof. Harry Fielding Reid   106\n  Mount Adams from the southwest              Prof. W. D. Lyman   107\n  Scenes in the Lewis River Canyon (3)       Jas. Waggener, Jr.   108\n  *Mount Adams from Trout Lake                  Kiser Photo Co.   110\n  Scenes on Lava Bed, south of Mount St.\n          Helens (3)                         Jas. Waggener, Jr.   111\n  Lava Flume, south of Mount St. Helens      Jas. Waggener, Jr.   112\n  Entrance to Lava Flume                       Rodney L. Glisan   112\n  Mount St. Helens, seen from Portland         L. C. Henrichsen   113\n  *Mount St. Helens, from Chelatchie Prairie\n                                             Jas. Waggener, Jr.   114\n  Mount St. Helens, seen from Twin Buttes        Ray M. Filloon   115\n  Canyons of South Toutle River            U. S. Forest Service   116\n  Lower Toutle Canyon                        Jas. Waggener, Jr.   116\n  Northeast side of Mount St. Helens           Dr. U. M. Lauman   117\n  Mazamas on summit of Mt. St. Helens\n          shortly before sunset          Marion Randall Parsons   117\n  Mount St. Helens in Winter                   Dr. U. M. Lauman   118\n  Mount St. Helens, north side, from near\n          the snow line                        Dr. U. M. Lauman   119\n  Glacier Scenes, east of the \"Lizard.\" (2)    Dr. U. M. Lauman   120\n  *Finest of the St. Helens glaciers              G. M. Weister   121\n  *Road among the Douglas Firs                    Asahel Curtis   122\n  Ships loading lumber at one of\n          Portland's mills                        The Timberman   123\n  Outposts of the Forest                            Shoji Endow   123\n  Alpine Hemlocks at the timber line             Ray M. Filloon   124\n  Mazamas at the foot of Mount St. Helens          E. S. Curtis   124\n  A Lowland Ravine                                 E. S. Curtis   125\n  *The Noble Fir                                Kiser Photo Co.   125\n  Dense Hemlock Forest                            G. M. Weister   126\n  Mount Hood, from Ghost-tree Ridge            George R. Miller   126\n  *A Group of Red Cedars                          Asahel Curtis   128\n  Road to Government Camp                         A. M. Grilley   129\n  Firs and Hemlocks, in Clarke County,\n          Washington                         Jas. Waggener, Jr.   130\n  *Where Man is a Pigmy                           G. M. Weister   130\n  Hemlock growing on Cedar log                    Asahel Curtis   131\n  Tideland Spruce                               Frank Woodfield   131\n  Sugar Pine, Douglas Fir and Yellow Pine    Jas. Waggener, Jr.   132\n  Yellow Cedar, with young Silver Fir              H. D. Norton   133\n  *One of the Kings of Treeland                Benj. A. Gifford   133\n  *Firs and Vine Maples                      Jas. Waggener, Jr.   134\n  Log Raft                                     Benj. A. Gifford   134\n  A \"Burn\" on Mount Hood, overgrown with\n          Squaw Grass                             Asahel Curtis   135\n  *A Noble Fir                                 Benj. A. Gifford   136\n  Western White Pine                                    Unknown   136\n  A Clatsop Forest                               H. D. Langille   137\n  Carpet of Firs                                     J. E. Ford   137\n  Winter in the Forest, near Mount Hood         E. D. Jorgensen   138\n  Rangers' Pony Trail                               A. P. Cronk   138\n  Forest Fire on East Fork of Hood River        William M. Ladd   139\n  Reforestation; three generations of\n          young growth                           H. D. Langille   139\n  Klickitat River Canyon                        William R. King   144\n\n\nMAPS.\n\n  The Scenic Northwest                                             13\n  Mount Hood                                                       58\n  Mount Adams                                                      87\n  Mount St. Helens                                                107\n\n[Illustration: THE SCENIC NORTHWEST\n\nRelief Map to accompany\n\n\"THE GUARDIANS _of the_ COLUMBIA\"\n\nby John H. Williams\n\nDesigned by G. H. Mulldorfer.--Portland.]\n\n[Illustration: A Gray Day on the Columbia. Telephotograph of Mount Hood\nfrom the river opposite Vancouver Barracks.]\n\n\n\n\n[Illustration: Trout Lake and Mount Adams.]\n\n\n\n\nTHE GUARDIANS OF THE COLUMBIA\n\n\n\n\nI.\n\nTHE RIVER\n\n      The Columbia, viewed as one from the sea to the\n      mountains, is like a rugged, broad-topped picturesque\n      old oak, about six hundred miles long, and nearly a\n      thousand miles wide, measured across the spread of its\n      upper branches, the main limbs gnarled and swollen\n      with lakes and lake-like expansions, while innumerable\n      smaller lakes shine like fruit among the smaller\n      branches.--_John Muir._\n\n\nON a frosty morning of last July, before sunrise, I stood upon the\nbelvedere of the delightful Cloud Cap Inn, which a public-spirited man\nof Portland has provided for visitors to the north side of Mount Hood;\nand from that superb viewpoint, six thousand feet above sea level,\nwatched the day come up out of the delicate saffron east. Behind us lay\nEliot Glacier, sloping to the summit of the kindling peak. Before us\nrose--an ocean!\n\n[Illustration: Mount St. Helens, seen from the Columbia at Vancouver,\nwith railway bridge in foreground.]\n\nNever was a marine picture of greater stress. No watcher from the\ncrags, none who go down to the sea in ships, ever beheld a scene more\nawful. Ceaselessly the mighty surges piled up against the ridge at our\nfeet, as if to tear away the solid foundations of the mountain. Towers\nand castles of foam were built up, huge and white, against the sullen\nsky, only to hurl themselves into the gulf. Far to the north, dimly\nabove this gray and heaving surface were seen the crests of three\nsnow-mantled mountains, paler even than the undulating expanse from\nwhich they emerged. All between was a wild sea that rolled across sixty\nmiles of space to assail those ghostly islands.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nView up the Columbia on north side, opposite Astoria. Noon rest of the\nnight fishermen. Much of the fishing on the lower Columbia is done at\nnight with gill-nets from small boats. The river is here six miles\nwide.]\n\nYet the tossing breakers gave forth no roar. It was a spectral and\npantomimic ocean. We \"had sight of Proteus rising from the sea,\" but no\nTriton of the upper air blew his \"wreathed horn.\" Cold and uncanny, all\nthat seething ocean was silent as a windless lake under summer stars. It\nwas a sea of clouds.\n\n[Illustration: Astoria in 1813, showing the trading post established by\nJohn Jacob Astor.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nLooking north from lower end of Eliot Glacier on Mount Hood, across the\nCascade ranges and the Columbia River canyon, twenty-five miles away, to\nMount Adams (right), Mount Rainier-Tacoma (center), and Mount St. Helens\n(left). These snow-peaks are respectively 60, 100, and 60 miles\ndistant.]\n\nSwiftly the dawn marched westward. The sun, breaking across the eastern\nridges, sent long level beams to sprinkle the cloud-sea with silver. Its\ntouch was magical. The billows broke and parted. The mists fled in\npanic. Cloud after cloud arose and was caught away into space. The\ntops of the Cascade ranges below came, one by one, into view. Lower and\nlower, with the shortening shadows, the wooded slopes were revealed in\nthe morning light. Here and there some deep vale was still white and\nhidden. Scattered cloud-fleeces clung to pinnacles on the cliffs.\nNorthward, the snow-peaks in Washington towered higher. Great banks of\nfog embraced their forested abutments, and surged up to their glaciers.\nBut the icy summits smiled in the gladness of a new day. The reign of\ndarkness and mist was broken.\n\n    Never did sun more beautifully steep\n    In his first splendor valley, rock or hill.\n\nClearer and wider the picture grew. Below us, the orchards of Hood River\ncaught the fresh breezes and laughed in the first sunshine. The day\nreached down into the nearer canyons, and saluted the busy, leaping\nbrooks. Noisy waterfalls filled the glens with spray, and built rainbows\nfrom bank to bank, then hurried and tumbled on, in conceited haste, as\nif the ocean must run dry unless replenished by their wetness ere the\nsun should set again. Rippling lakes, in little mountain pockets,\nsignaled their joy as blankets of dense vapor were folded up and quickly\nwhisked away.\n\n[Illustration: Columbia Slough in Winter, near the mouth of the\nWillamette.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.\n\nCape Horn, tall basaltic cliffs that rise, terrace upon terrace, on the\nnorth side of the Columbia, twenty-five miles east of Portland. Lone\nRock is seen in the distance.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nSt. Peter's Dome, an 800-foot crag on the south bank of the Columbia;\nMt. Adams in the distance\n\n    \"Uplift against the blue walls of the sky\n            Your mighty shapes, and let the sunshine weave\n    Its golden network in your belting woods;\n            Smile down in rainbows from your falling floods,\n    And on your kingly brows at morn and eve\n            Set crowns of fire.\"--Whittier.]\n\n[Illustration: Mount Hood, seen from Columbia Slough.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, FRANK WOODFIELD\n\nCampfire of Yakima Indians gathered at the Astoria Centennial, 1911, to\ntake part in \"The Bridge of the Gods,\" a dramatization of Balch's famous\nstory. The celebration of the one hundredth anniversary of the Astor\ntrading post at the mouth of the Columbia was made noteworthy by a\nrevival of Indian folk lore, in which the myth of the great tamahnawas\nbridge held first place.] Thirty miles northeast, a ribbon of gold\nflashed the story of a mighty stream at The Dalles. Far beyond, even to\nthe uplands of the Umatilla and the Snake, to the Blue Mountains of\neastern Washington and Oregon, stretched the wheat fields and stock\nranges of that vast \"Inland Empire\" which the great river watered; while\nwestward, cut deep through a dozen folds of the Cascades, the chasm\nit had torn on its way to the sea was traced in the faint blue that\ndistance paints upon evergreen hills. Out on our left, beyond the\nmountains, the Willamette slipped down its famous valley to join the\nlarger river; and still farther, a hundred and fifty miles away, our\nglasses caught the vague gray line of the Pacific. Within these limits\nof vision lay a noble and historic country, the lower watershed of the\nColumbia.\n\n    Earth has not anything to show more fair.\n\n\n[Illustration: Sunset at the mouth of the Columbia. Cape Hancock on\nright, Point Adams on left. View from river off Astoria.]\n\n[Illustration: Northern part of Portland, showing the Willamette River\nflowing through it, and indicating relative position of the three\nsnow-peaks. Mount Hood (right) and Mount St. Helens (left) are each\nabout fifty miles away, while Mount Adams, seen between, is twenty miles\nfarther.]\n\n[Illustration: \"The Coming of the White Man\" and \"Sacajawea,\" statues in\nPortland City Park which commemorate the aboriginal Americans.]\n\nWide as was the prospect, however, it called the imagination to a still\nbroader view; to look back, indeed,--how many millions of years?--to an\nearlier dawn, bounded by the horizons of geological time. Let us try to\nrealize the panorama thus unfolded. As we look down from some aerial\nviewpoint, behold! there is no Mount Hood and no Cascade Range. The\nvolcanic snow-peaks of Oregon and Washington are still embryo in the\nwomb of earth. We stand face to face with the beginnings of the\nNorthwest.\n\nFar south and east of our castle-in-the-air, islands rise slowly out of\na Pacific that has long rolled, unbroken, to the Rocky Mountains. We\nsee the ocean bed pushed above the tide in what men of later ages will\ncall the Siskiyou and the Blue Mountains, one range in southwestern, the\nother in eastern, Oregon. A third uptilt, the great Okanogan, in\nnorthern Washington, soon appears. All else is sea. Upon these primitive\nuplands, the date is written in the fossil archives of their ancient sea\nbeaches, raised thousands of feet above the former shore-line level. At\na time when all western Europe was still ocean, and busy foraminifers\nwere strewing its floor with shells to form the chalk beds of France and\nEngland, these first lands of our Northwest emerged from the great deep.\nIt is but a glimpse we get into the immeasurable distance of the\nPaleozoic. Its time-units are centuries instead of minutes.\n\n[Illustration: Sunset on Vancouver Lake, near Vancouver, Washington.]\n\n[Illustration: Fort Vancouver in 1852.]\n\nAnother glance, as the next long geological age passes, and we perceive\na second step in the making of the West. It is the gradual uplift of a\nthin sea-dike, separating the two islands first disclosed, and\nstretching from the present Lower California to our Alaska. It is a\nfolding of the earth's crust that will, for innumerable ages, exercise a\ncontrolling influence upon the whole western slope of North America. At\nfirst merely a sea-dike, we see it slowly become a far-reaching range of\nhills, and then a vast continental mountain system, covering a broad\nregion with its spurs and interlying plateaus. \"The highest mountains,\"\nour school geographies used to tell us, \"parallel the deepest oceans.\"\nSo here, bordering its profound depths, the Pacific ocean, through\ncenturies of centuries, thrust upward, fold on fold, the lofty ridges of\nthis colossal Sierra-Cascade barrier, to be itself a guide of further\nland building, a governor of climate, and a reservoir of water for\nvalleys and river basins as yet unborn.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nRooster Rock, south bank of the Columbia.]\n\n[Illustration: Seining for salmon on the lower Columbia.]\n\nBehind this barrier, what revolutions are recorded! The inland sea, at\nfirst a huge body of ocean waters, becomes in time a fresh-water lake.\nIn its three thousand feet of sediment, it buries the fossils of a\nstrange reptilian life, covering hundreds of thousands of years. Cycle\nfollows cycle, altering the face of all that interior basin. Its vast\nlake is lessened in area as it is cut off from the Utah lake on the\nsouth and hemmed in by upfolds on the north. Then its bed is lifted up\nand broken by forces of which our present-day experiences give us no\nexample. Instead of one great lake, as drainage proceeds, we behold at\nlast a wide country of many lakes and rivers. Their shores are clothed\nin tropical vegetation. Under the palms, flourish a race of giant\nmammals. The broad-faced ox, the mylodon, mammoth, elephant, rhinoceros,\nand mastodon, and with them the camel and the three-toed horse, roam the\nforests that are building the coal deposits for a later age. This story\nof the Eocene and Miocene time is also told in the fossils of the\nperiod, and we may read it in the strata deposited by the lakes.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.\n\nThe Columbia near Butler, looking across to Multnomah Falls.]\n\n[Illustration: Captain Som-Kin, chief of Indian police, Umatilla\nreservation.]\n\n[Illustration: Multnomah Falls in Summer and Winter. This fascinating\ncascade, the most famous in the Northwest, falls 720 feet into a basin,\nand then 130 feet to the bank of the Columbia below.\n\nPHOTOS COPYRIGHT, KISER]\n\nAge succeeds age, not always distinct, but often overlapping one\nanother, and all changing the face of nature. The Coast Range rises,\nshutting in vast gulfs to fill later, and form the valleys of the\nSacramento and San Joaquin in California and the Willamette in Oregon,\nwith the partly filled basin of Puget Sound in Washington. Centering\nalong the Cascade barrier, an era of terrific violence shakes the very\nfoundation of the Northwest. Elevations and contours are changed. New\nlake beds are created. Watersheds and stream courses are remodeled. Dry\n\"coulees\" are left where formerly rivers flowed. Strata are uptilted and\nriven, to be cross-sectioned again by the new rivers as they cut new\ncanyons in draining the new lakes. Most important of all, outflows of\nmelted rock, pouring from fissures in the changing earth-folds, spread\nvast sheets of basalt, trap and andesite over most of the interior.\nInnumerable craters build cones of lava and scori\u00e6 along the Cascade\nuptilt, and scatter clouds of volcanic ashes upon the steady sea winds,\nto blanket the country for hundreds of miles with deep layers of future\nsoil.\n\nA reign of ice follows the era of tropic heat. Stupendous glaciers grind\nthe volcanic rocks, and carving new valleys, endow them with fertility\nfor new forests that will rise where once the palm forests stood. With\nadvancing age, the earth grows cold and quiet, awakening only to an\noccasional volcanic eruption or earthquake as a reminder of former\nviolence. The dawn of history approaches. The country slowly takes on\nits present shape. Landscape changes are henceforth the work of milder\nforces, erosion by streams and remnant glaciers. Man appears.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.\n\nView from the cliffs at Multnomah Falls (seen on right). Castle Rock is\nin distance on north side.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.\n\nThe broad Columbia, seen from Lone Rock, a small island east of Cape\nHorn. Shows successive ranges of the Cascades cut by the river, with\nArcher and Arrowhead Mountains and Castle Rock in distance on north\nside.]\n\n[Illustration: Castle Rock, a huge tower of columnar basalt, 1146 feet\nhigh, on north bank of the Columbia, forty miles east of Portland. View\nfrom Mosquito Island.]\n\nThroughout the cycles of convulsion and revolution which we have\nwitnessed from our eyrie in the clouds, the vital and increasing\ninfluence in the building of the Northwest has been the Cascade upfold.\nFirst, it merely shuts in a piece of the Pacific. Rising higher, its\ncondensation of the moist ocean wind feeds the thousand streams that\nconvert the inland seas thus enclosed from salt to fresh water, and\nfurnish the silt deposited over their floors. The fractures and faults\nresulting from its uptilting spread an empire with some of the largest\nlava flows in geological history. It pushes its snow-covered volcanoes\nupward, to scatter ashes far to the east. Finally, its increasing height\nconverts a realm of tropical verdure into semi-arid land, which only its\nrivers, impounded by man, will again make fertile.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.\n\nThe Columbia, opposite Oneonta Bluffs and Gorge, and Horsetail Falls.]\n\n[Illustration: An original American--\"Jake\" Hunt, former Klickitat\nchief, 112 years old. He is said to be the oldest Indian on the\nColumbia.]\n\nIn all this great continental barrier, throughout the changes which we\nhave witnessed, there has been only one sea-level pass. For nearly a\nthousand miles northward from the Gulf of California, the single outlet\nfor the waters of the interior is the remarkable canyon which we first\nsaw from the distant roof of Cloud Cap Inn. Here the Columbia, greatest\nof Western rivers, has cut its way through ranges rising more than 4,000\nfeet on either hand. This erosion, let us remember, has been continuous\nand gradual, rather than the work of any single epoch. It doubtless\nbegan when the Cascade Mountains were in their infancy, a gap in the\nprolonged but low sea-dike. The drainage, first of the vast salt lake\nshut off from the ocean, and then of the succeeding fresh-water lakes,\nhas preserved this channel to the sea, cutting it deeper and deeper as\nthe earth-folds rose higher, until at last the canyon became one of the\nmost important river gorges in the world. Thus nature prepared a vast\nand fruitful section of the continent for human use, and provided it\nwith a worthy highway to the ocean.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.\n\nView from 2,300 foot elevation, west of St. Peter's Dome. The Columbia\nhere hurries down from The Cascades with a speed varying in different\nseasons from six to ten miles per hour. Mosquito Island lies below, with\nCastle Rock opposite. Beyond, the beautiful wooded ridges rise to 4,100\nfeet in Arrowhead and Table Mountains, and the snowy dome of Mount Adams\ncloses the scene, fifty miles away.]\n\nOver this beautiful region we may descry yet another dawn, the\nbeginnings of the Northwestern world according to Indian legend. The\nColumbia River Indian, like his brothers in other parts of the country,\nwas curious about the origin of the things he beheld around him, and\noppressed by things he could not see. The mysteries both of creation and\nof human destiny weighed heavily upon his blindness; and his mind,\npathetically groping in the dark, was ever seeking to penetrate the\ndistant past and the dim future. So far as he had any religion, it was\nconnected with the symbols of power in nature, the forces which he saw\nat work about him. These forces were often terrible and ruinous, so his\ngods were as often his enemies as his benefactors. Feeling his\npowerlessness against their cunning, he borrowed a cue from the \"animal\npeople,\" Watetash, who used craft to circumvent the malevolent gods.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nOneonta Gorge, south side of the Columbia, thirty-three miles east of\nPortland.]\n\nThese animal people, the Indian believed, had inhabited the world before\nthe time of the first grandfather, when the sun was as yet only a star,\nand the earth, too, had grown but little, and was only a small island.\nThe chief of the animal people was Speelyei, the coyote, not the\nmightiest but the shrewdest of them all. Speelyei was the friend of\n\"people\". He had bidden people to appear, and they \"came out.\"\n\n[Illustration: Looking up the Columbia, near Bonneville. The main\nchannel of the river is on right of the shoal in foreground.]\n\n[Illustration: Salmon trying to jump the Falls of the Willamette at\nOregon City.]\n\nOne of the most interesting attempts to account for the existence of the\nRed Man in the Northwest is the Okanogan legend that tells of an island\nfar out at sea inhabited by a race of giant whites, whose chief was a\ntall and powerful woman, Scomalt. When her giants warred among\nthemselves, Scomalt grew angry and drove all the fighters to the end of\nthe island. Then she broke off the end of the island, and pushing with\nher foot sent it floating away over the sea. The new island drifted far.\nAll the people on it died save one man and one woman. They caught a\nwhale, and its blubber saved them from starving. At last they escaped\nfrom the island by making a canoe. In this they paddled many days. Then\nthey came to the mainland, but it was small. It had not yet grown much.\nHere they landed. But while they had been in the canoe, the sun had\nturned them from white to red. All the Okanogans were their children.\nHence they all are red. Many years from now the whole of the mainland\nwill be cut loose from its foundations, and become an island. It will\nfloat about on the sea. That will be the end of the world.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.\n\nIn the Columbia Canyon at Cascade, with train on the \"North Bank\" road.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nThe Cascades of the Columbia. The narrow, rock-filled channel has a fall\nof thirty-seven feet in four miles. Here the river meets the tides from\nthe ocean, 160 miles away. On the opposite bank, at right, is seen Table\nMountain, 4,100 feet, the north abutment of the legendary \"Bridge of the\nGods.\"]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nFishwheel below the Cascades, with Table Mountain on north side of\nriver.]\n\nTo the aboriginal Americans in the Northwest the great river, \"Wauna\" in\ntheir vocabulary, was inevitably a subject of deep interest. It not only\nfurnished them a highway, but it supplied them with food. Their most\nfascinating myths are woven about its history. One of these told of the\nmighty struggle between Speelyei and Wishpoosh, the greedy king beaver,\nwhich resulted in breaking down the walls of the great lakes of the\ninterior and creating a passage for their waters through the mountains.\nThus the Indians accounted for the Columbia and its canyon.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.\n\nSunrise on the Columbia; view at 4 a. m. from top of Table Mountain.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.\n\nNightfall on the Columbia.\n\n    \"O love, they die in yon rich sky,\n          They faint on hill or field or river:\n    Our echoes roll from soul to soul,\n          And grow forever and forever.\"--Tennyson.]\n\nBut first among the river myths must always be the Klickitat legend of\nthe famous natural bridge, fabled to have stood where the Cascades of\nthe Columbia now are. This is one of the most beautiful legends\nconnected with the source of fire, a problem of life in all the northern\nlands. Further, it tells the origin of the three snow-peaks that are the\nsubject of this book.\n\n[Illustration: Looking down the Columbia below the Cascades, showing\nmany ranges cut by the river. On the left of the scene is \"Sliding\nMountain,\" its name a reminder that the hillsides on both banks are\nslowly moving toward the stream and compelling the railways occasionally\nto readjust their tracks.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nWind Mountain and remnant of submerged forest, above the Cascades, at\nlow water.]\n\n[Illustration: Steamboat entering Cascade Locks.]\n\nIn the time of their remote grandfathers, said the Klickitats, Tyhee\nSaghalie, chief of the gods, had two sons. They made a trip together\ndown the river to where The Dalles are now. The sons saw that the\ncountry was beautiful, and quarrelled as to its possession. Then\nSaghalie shot an arrow to the north and an arrow to the west. The sons\nwere bidden to find the arrows, and settle where they had fallen. Thus\none son settled in the fair country between the great river and the\nYakima, and became the grandfather of the Klickitats. The other son\nsettled in the Willamette valley and became the ancestor of the large\nMultnomah tribe. To keep peace between the two tribes, Saghalie raised\nthe great mountains that separate those regions. But there were not yet\nany snow-peaks. The great river also flowed very deep between the\ncountry of the Klickitats and the country of the Multnomahs. That the\ntribes might always be friendly, Saghalie built a huge bridge of stone\nover the river. The Indians called it the tamahnawas bridge, or bridge\nof the gods. The great river flowed under it, and a witch-woman, Loowit,\nlived on it. Loowit had charge of the only fire in the world.\n\n[Illustration: Moonlight upon the Columbia, with clouds on Wind\nMountain. Looking up the river from the Cascades.]\n\n[Illustration: White Salmon River and its Gorge, south of Mount Adams.\n\nPHOTOS COPYRIGHT, KISER]\n\nLoowit saw how miserable the tribes were without fire. Therefore she\nbesought Saghalie to permit her to give them fire. Saghalie granted her\nrequest. Thus a fire was kindled on the bridge. The Indians came there\nand obtained fire, which greatly improved their condition. Saghalie was\nso much pleased with Loowit's faithfulness that he promised the\nwitch-woman anything she might ask. Loowit asked for youth and beauty.\nSo Saghalie transformed her into a beautiful maiden.\n\n[Illustration: Looking down the Columbia Canyon from the cliffs at White\nSalmon, Washington.]\n\n[Illustration: An Oregon Trout Stream.]\n\nMany chiefs fell in love with Loowit because of her beauty. But she paid\nheed to none till there came two other chiefs, Klickitat from the north,\nWiyeast from the west. As she could not decide which of them to accept\nas her husband, they and their people went to war. Great distress came\nupon the people because of this fighting. Saghalie grew angry at their\nevil doing, and determined to punish them. He broke down the tamahnawas\nbridge, and put Loowit, Wiyeast and Klickitat to death. But they had\nbeen beautiful in life, therefore Saghalie would have them beautiful in\ndeath. So he made of them the three famous snow-peaks. Wiyeast became\nthe mountain which white men call Mount Hood; Klickitat became Mount\nAdams; Loowit was changed into Mount St. Helens. Always, said Saghalie,\nthey should be clothed in garments of snow.\n\n[Illustration: Looking up the Columbia from Hood River, Oregon.]\n\nThus was the wonderful tamahnawas bridge destroyed, and the great river\ndammed by the huge rocks that fell into it. That caused the Cascade\nrapids. Above the rapids, when the river is low, you can still see the\nforests that were buried when the bridge fell down and dammed the\nwaters.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, B. A. GIFFORD\n\nHood River, fed by the glaciers of Mount Hood.]\n\nThis noteworthy myth, fit to rank with the folk-lore masterpieces of any\nprimitive people, Greek or Gothic, is of course only a legend. The\nIndian was not a geologist. True, we see the submerged forests to-day,\nat low water. But their slowly decaying trunks were killed, perhaps not\nmuch more than a century ago, by a rise in the river that was not caused\nby the fall of a natural bridge, but by a landslide from the mountains.\n\n[Illustration: A Late Winter Afternoon. View across the Columbia from\nWhite Salmon to the mouth of Hood River, showing the Hood River Valley\nwith Mount Hood wrapped in clouds.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nMemaloose Island, or Island of the Dead, last resting place of thousands\nof Indians. The lone monument is that of Maj. Victor Trevitt, a\ncelebrated pioneer, who asked to be buried here among \"honest men.\"]\n\nThere is a slow and glacier-like motion of the hillsides here which from\ntime to time compels the railways on either bank to readjust their\ntracks. The rapids at the Cascades, with their fall of nearly forty\nfeet, are doubtless the result of comparatively recent volcanic action.\nShaking down vast masses of rock, this dammed the river, and caused it\nto overflow its wooded shores above. But to the traveler on a steamboat\nbreasting the terrific current below the government locks, as he looks\nup to the towering heights on either side of the narrowed channel, the\ninvention of poor Lo's untutored mind seems almost as easy to believe as\nthe simpler explanation of the scientist.\n\n[Illustration: \"Gateway to the Inland Empire.\" Towering cliffs of\nstratified lava that guard the Columbia on each bank at Lyle,\nWashington.]\n\nRemarkable as is this fire myth of the tamahnawas bridge, the legend\ninspired by the peculiarities of northwestern climate is no less\nbeautiful. This climate differs materially, it is well known, from that\nof eastern America in the same latitude. The Japan Current warms the\ncoast of Oregon and Washington just as the Gulf Stream warms the coast\nof Ireland. East of the Cascade Mountains, the severe cold of a northern\nwinter is tempered by the \"Chinook\" winds from the Pacific. A period of\nfreezing weather is shortly followed by the melting of the snow upon the\ndistant mountains; by night the warm Chinook sweeps up the Columbia\ncanyon and across the passes, and in a few hours the mildness of spring\ncovers the land.\n\n[Illustration: \"Grant Castle\" and Palisades of the Columbia, on north\nside of the river below The Dalles.]\n\nSuch a phenomenon inevitably stirred the Indian to an attempt to\ninterpret it. Like the ancients of other races, he personified the\nwinds. The Yakima account of the struggle between the warm winds from\nthe coast and the icy blasts out of the Northeast will bear comparison\nwith the Homeric tale of Ulysses, buffeted by the breezes from the bag\ngiven him by the wind-god Aeolus.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nThe Dalles of the Columbia, lower channel, east of Dalles City. The\nriver, crowded into a narrow flume, flows here at a speed often\nexceeding ten miles an hour.]\n\nFive Chinook brothers, said the Yakima tradition, lived on the great\nriver. They caused the warm winds to blow. Five other brothers lived at\nWalla Walla, the meeting place of the waters. They caused the cold\nwinds. The grandparents of them all lived at Umatilla, home of the\nwind-blown sands. Always there was war between them. They swept over the\ncountry, destroying the forests, covering the rivers with ice, or\nmelting the snows and causing floods. The people suffered much because\nof their violence.\n\n[Illustration: Cabbage Rock, a huge freak of nature standing in the open\nplain four miles north of The Dalles. Apparently, the lava core of a\nsmall extinct crater.]\n\nThen Walla Walla brothers challenged Chinook brothers to wrestle.\nSpeelyei, the coyote god, should judge the contest. He should cut off\nthe heads of those who fell.\n\n[Illustration: A True Fish Story of the Columbia, where four- and even\nfive-foot salmon are not uncommon.]\n\nThe crafty Speelyei secretly advised the grandparents of Chinook\nbrothers that if they would throw oil on the ground, their sons would\nnot fall. This they did. But Speelyei also told the grandparents of\nWalla Walla brothers that if they would throw ice on the ground, their\nsons would not fall. This they did. So the Chinook brothers were thrown\none after another, and Speelyei cut off their heads, according to the\nbargain. So the five Chinook brothers were dead.\n\nBut the oldest of them left an infant son. The child's mother brought\nhim up to avenge the killing of his kinsmen. So the son grew very\nstrong, until he could pull up great fir trees as if they were weeds.\nThen Walla Walla brothers challenged Young Chinook to wrestle. Speelyei\nshould judge the contest. He should cut off the heads of those who fell.\nSecretly Speelyei advised Young Chinook's grandparents to throw oil on\nthe ground last. This they did. So Walla Walla brothers were thrown one\nafter another by Young Chinook, until four of them had fallen. Only the\nyoungest of them was left. His heart failed him, and he refused to\nwrestle. Speelyei pronounced this sentence upon him: \"You shall live,\nbut you shall no longer have power to freeze people.\" To Young Chinook,\nhe said: \"You must blow only lightly, and you must blow first upon the\nmountains, to warn people of your coming.\"\n\n[Illustration: The Zigzag river in winter, south side of Mount Hood.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT G. M. WEISTER\n\nThe Dalles. This name, meaning literally flat stones, was given by the\nearly French-Canadian voyageurs to the twelve-mile section below Celilo,\nwhere, the Columbia has cut through the level lava strata, forming a\nchannel in some places less than 200 feet wide and nearly 200 feet deep\nat low water. At higher stages the river fills many lateral channels and\nroars past many islands of its own carving.]\n\nThe last dawn of all opens upon the white man's era. On the Columbia,\nrecorded history is recent, but already epic. Its story is outside the\npurpose of this volume. But it is worth while, in closing our brief\nglance at the field, to note that this story has been true to its\nsetting. Rich in heroism and romance, it is perhaps the most typical, as\nit is the latest, chapter in the development of the West. For this land\nof the river, its quarter-million square miles stretching far northward\nto Canada, and far eastward to the Yellowstone, built about with\ncolossal mountains, laced with splendid waterways, jeweled with\nbeautiful lakes, where upheaval and eruption, earthquake and glacier\nhave prepared a home for a great and happy population, has already been\nthe scene of a drama of curious political contradictions and remarkable\npopular achievement.\n\n[Illustration: The \"Witch's Head,\" an Indian picture rock at the old\nnative village of Wishram, north side of the Columbia near Celilo Falls.\nThe Indians believe that if an unfaithful wife passes this rock, its\neyes follow her with mute accusation.]\n\n[Illustration: Village of Indian Tepees, Umatilla Reservation, near\nPendleton, Oregon. Many of these Indians are rich landowners, but they\nprefer tents to houses.]\n\nThe Columbia River basin, alone of all the territories which the United\nStates has added to its original area, was neither bought with money nor\nannexed by war. Its acquisition was a triumph of the American pioneer.\nMany nations looked with longing to this Northwest, but it fell a prize\nto the nation that neglected it. Spain and Russia wished to own it.\nGreat Britain claimed and practically held it. The United States\nignored it. For nearly half a century after the discovery of the river\nby a Yankee ship captain, Robert Gray, in 1792, and its exploration by\nJefferson's expedition under Lewis and Clark, in 1805, its ownership was\nin question. For several decades after an American merchant, John Jacob\nAstor, had established the first unsuccessful trading post, in 1811, the\ncountry was actually ruled by the British through a private corporation.\nThe magic circle drawn about it by the Hudson's Bay Company seemed\nimpenetrable. Held nominally by the American and British governments in\njoint occupancy, it was in fact left to the halfbreed servants of a\nforeign monopoly that sought to hold an empire for its fur trade, and to\nexclude settlers because their farms would interfere with its beaver\ntraps. Congress deemed the region worthless.\n\n[Illustration: Mount Adams, seen from Eagle Peak in the Rainier National\nPark. View shows some of the largest earth-folds in the Cascade Range,\nwith the great canyon of the Cowlitz, one of the tributaries of the\nColumbia River. Elevation of camera 6,000 feet.]\n\n[Illustration: A clearing in the forest. Mount Hood from Sandy,\ntwenty-five miles west of the peak.]\n\nBut while sleepy diplomacy played its game of chess between Washington\nand London, the issue was joined, the title cleared and possession taken\nby a breed of men to whom the United States owes more than it can ever\npay. From far east came the thin vanguard of civilization which, for a\ncentury after the old French and Indian war, pushed our boundaries\nresistlessly westward. It had seized the \"dark and bloody ground\" of\nKentucky. It had held the Ohio valley for the young republic during the\nRevolution. It had built states from the Alleghanies to the Mississippi.\nAnd now, dragging its wagons across the plains and mountains, it burst,\nsun-browned and half-starved, into Oregon. Missionaries and traders,\nfarmers, politicians and speculators, it was part of that army of\nrestless spirits who, always seeing visions of more fertile lands and\nrising cities beyond, stayed and long in no place, until at last they\nfound their way barred by the Pacific, and therefore stayed to build the\ncommonwealths of Oregon, Washington and Idaho.\n\n[Illustration: An Indian Madonna and Child. Umatilla Reservation.]\n\n[Illustration: Finished portion of Canal at Celilo, which the Government\nis building around Tumwater Falls and The Dalles.]\n\nThe arena of their peaceful contest was worthy of their daring. \"'A land\nof old upheaven from the abyss,' a land of deepest deeps and highest\nheights, of richest verdure here, and barest desolation there, of dense\nforest on one side, and wide extended prairies on the other; a land of\ncontrasts, contrasts in contour, hues, productions, and history,\"--thus\nProfessor Lyman describes the stage which the pioneers found set for\nthem.\n\nThe tremendous problems of its development, due to its topography, its\nremoteness, its magnificent distances, and its lack of transportation,\ndemanded men of sturdiest fiber and intrepid leading. No pages of our\nhistory tell a finer story of action and initiative than those which\nenroll the names of McLoughlin, the great Company's autocratic governor,\nnot unfitly called \"the father of Oregon,\" and Whitman, the martyr, with\nthe frontier leaders who fashioned the first ship of state launched in\nthe Northwest, and their contemporaries, the men who built the first\ntowns, roads, schools, mills, steamboats and railways.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT G. M. WEISTER\n\nThe grim sentinels of \"the Wallula Gateway,\" huge basaltic pillars that\nrise on the south bank of the river, where it crosses the\nWashington-Oregon line. View looking south.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.\n\nTumwater, the falls of the Columbia at Celilo; total drop, twenty feet\nat low water. In Summer, when the snow on the Bitter Root and Rocky\nMountains is melting, the river rises often more than sixty feet.\nSteamboats have then passed safely down. Wishram, an ancient Indian\nfishing village, was on the north bank below the falls, and Indians may\noften still be seen spearing salmon from the shores and islands here.]\n\nMacaulay tells us that a people who are not proud of their forebears\nwill never deserve the pride of their descendants. The makers of Old\nOregon included as fair a proportion of patriots and heroes as the\nimmigrants of the Mayflower. We who journey up or down the Columbia in a\nluxurious steamer, or ride in a train _de luxe_ along its banks, are the\nheirs of their achievement. Honor to the dirt-tanned ox-drivers who\nseized for themselves and us this empire of the river and its guardian\nsnow-peaks!\n\n            A lordly river, broad and deep,\n    With mountains for its neighbors, and in view\n    Of distant mountains and their snowy tops.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT. G. M. WEISTER\n\nSummit of Mount Hood, viewed from western end of the ridge, showing\nnorth side of the peak in July.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.\n\nColumbia River and Mt. Hood, seen from White Salmon, Washington.\n\n                                \"Beloved mountain, I\n    Thy worshiper, as thou the sun's, each morn\n          My dawn, before the dawn, receive from thee;\n    And think, as thy rose-tinted peak I see,\n          That thou wert great when Homer was not born,\n    And ere thou change all human song shall die.\"--Helen Hunt Jackson.]\n\n\n\n\n[Illustration: North side of Mount Hood, from ridge several miles west\nof Cloud Cap Inn. View shows gorges cut by the glacier-fed streams.\nCooper Spur is on left sky line. Barret Spur is the great ridge on\nright, with Ladd glacier canyon beyond. Coe glacier is in center.]\n\n\n\n\nII.\n\nTHE MOUNTAINS.\n\n    Silent and calm, have you e'er scaled the height\n    Of some lone mountain peak, in heaven's sight?\n                                    --_Victor Hugo._\n\n      There stood Mount Hood in all the glory of the alpen\n      glow, looming immensely high, beaming with\n      intelligence. It seemed neither near nor far.... The\n      whole mountain appeared as one glorious manifestation\n      of divine power, enthusiastic and benevolent, glowing\n      like a countenance with ineffable repose and beauty,\n      before which we could only gaze with devout and lowly\n      admiration.--_John Muir._\n\n[Illustration: Winter on Mount Hood. The roof of the club house of the\nPortland Snow-shoe Club is seen over the ridge.]\n\nFROM the heights which back the city of Portland on the west, one may\nhave a view that is justly famous among the fairest prospects in\nAmerica. Below him lies the restless city, busy with its commerce.\nWinding up from the south comes the Willamette, its fine valley narrowed\nhere by the hills, where the river forms Portland's harbor, and is lined\non either side with mills and shipping. Ten miles beyond, the Columbia\nflows down from its canyon on the east, and turns northward, an\nexpanding waterway for great vessels, to its broad pass through the\nCoast Range. In every direction, city and country, farm and forest,\nvalley and mountain, stretches a noble perspective. From the wide rivers\nand their shining borders, almost at sea level, the scene arises,\nterrace upon terrace, to the encircling hills, and spreads across range\nafter range to the summits of the great Cascades.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT G. M. WEISTER\n\nWatching the climbers from the plaza at Cloud Cap Inn, northeast side of\nMount Hood. Immediately in front, Eliot glacier is seen, dropping into\nits canyon on the right. On the left is Cooper Spur, from which a sharp\nascent leads to the summit of the peak.]\n\nDominating all are the snow-peaks, august sentinels upon the horizon. On\na clear day, the long line of them begins far down in central Oregon,\nand numbers six snowy domes. But any average day includes in its glory\nthe three nearest, Hood, Adams, and St. Helens. Spirit-like, they loom\nabove the soft Oregon haze, their glaciers signaling from peak to peak,\nand their shining summits bidding the sordid world below to look upward.\n\n[Illustration: Mount Hood, elevation 11,225 feet]\n\nNature has painted canvases more colorful, but none more perfect in its\nstrength and rest. Here is no flare of the desert, none of the\nflamboyant, terrible beauty of the Grand Canyon. It is a land of warm\nocean winds and cherishing sunshine, where the emeralds and jades of the\nvalleys quickly give place to the bluer greens of evergreen forests that\ncover the hill country; and these, in turn, as distance grows, shade\ninto the lavenders and grays of the successive ranges. The white peaks\ncomplete the picture with its most characteristic note. They give it\ndistinction.\n\n[Illustration: Lower end of Eliot glacier, seen from Cooper Spur, and\nshowing the lateral moraines which this receding glacier has built in\nrecent years.]\n\n[Illustration: Snout of Eliot glacier, its V-shaped ice front heavily\ncovered with morainal debris.]\n\nSuch a panorama justifies Ruskin's bold assertion: \"Mountains are the\nbeginning and end of all natural scenery.\" Without its mountains, the\nview from Council Crest would be as uninteresting as that from any tower\nin any prairie city. But all mountains are not alike. In beginning our\njourney to the three great snow-peaks which we have viewed from Portland\nheights, it is well to define, if we may, the special character of our\nNorthwestern scene. We sometimes hear the Cascade district praised as\n\"the American Switzerland.\" Such a comparison does injustice alike to\nour mountains and to the Alps. As a wild, magnificent sea of ice-covered\nmountain tops, the Alps have no parallel in America. As a far-reaching\nsystem of splendid lofty ranges clothed in the green of dense forests\nand surmounted by towering, isolated summits of snowy volcanoes, the\nCascades are wholly without their equal in Europe. This is the testimony\nof famous travelers and alpinists, among them Ambassador Bryce, who has\nwritten of our Northwestern mountain scenery:\n\n      We have nothing more beautiful in Switzerland or\n      Tyrol, in Norway or in the Pyrenees. The combination\n      of ice scenery with woodland scenery of the grandest\n      type is to be found nowhere in the Old World, unless\n      it be in the Himalayas, and, so far as we know,\n      nowhere else on the American continent.\n\n[Illustration: Cone of Mount Hood, seen from Cooper Spur on northwest\nside. A popular route to the summit leads along this ridge of volcanic\nscori\u00e6 and up the steep snow slope above.]\n\n[Illustration: Cloud Cap Inn, north side of Mount Hood. Elevation 5,900\nfeet.]\n\nIn his celebrated chapter of the \"Modern Painters\" which describes the\nsculpture of the mountains, Ruskin draws a picture of the Alps that at\nonce sets them apart from the Cascades:\n\n      The longer I stayed among the Alps, the more I was\n      struck by their being a vast plateau, upon which\n      nearly all the highest peaks stood like children set\n      upon a table, removed far back from the edge, as if\n      for fear of their falling. The most majestic scenes\n      are produced by one of the great peaks having\n      apparently walked to the edge of the table to look\n      over, and thus showing itself suddenly above the\n      valley in its full height. But the raised table is\n      always intelligibly in existence, even in these\n      exceptional cases; and for the most part, the great\n      peaks are not allowed to come to the edge of it, but\n      remain far withdrawn, surrounded by comparatively\n      level fields of mountain, over which the lapping\n      sheets of glacier writhe and flow. The result is the\n      division of Switzerland into an upper and lower\n      mountain world; the lower world consisting of rich\n      valleys, the upper world, reached after the first\n      steep banks of 3,000 to 4,000 feet have been\n      surmounted, consisting of comparatively level but most\n      desolate tracts, half covered by glacier, and\n      stretching to the feet of the true pinnacles of the\n      chain.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nPortland's White Sentinel, Mount Hood. Telephoto view from City Park,\nshowing a portion of the city, with modern buildings and smoke of\nfactories.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nIce cascade on Eliot glacier, Mount Hood.]\n\nNothing of this in the Cascades! Instead, we have fold upon fold of the\nearth-crust, separated by valleys of great depth. The ranges rise from\nlevels but little above the sea. For example, between Portland and\nUmatilla, although they are separated by the mountains of greatest\nactual elevation in the United States, there is a difference of less\nthan two hundred and fifty feet, Umatilla, east of the Cascades, being\nonly two hundred and ninety-four feet above tide. Trout Lake, lying\nbelow Mount Adams, at the head of one of the great intermountain\nvalleys, has an elevation of less than two thousand feet.\n\n[Illustration: Portland Snow-shoe Club members on Eliot glacier in\nwinter.]\n\nThus, instead of the Northwestern snow-peaks being set far back upon a\ngeneral upland and hidden away behind lesser mountains, to be seen only\nafter one has reached the plateau, thousands of feet above sea level,\nthey actually rise either from comparatively low peneplanes on one side\nof the Cascades, as in the case of St. Helens, or from the summit of one\nof the narrow, lofty ridges, as do Hood and Adams. But in either case,\nthe full elevation is seen near at hand and from many directions--an\nelevation, therefore, greater and more impressive than that of most of\nthe celebrated Alpine summits.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nSnow-bridge over great crevasse, near head of Eliot glacier.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nCoasting down east side of Mount Hood, above Cooper Spur. Mount Adams in\ndistance.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nMount Hood from the hills south of The Dalles, showing the comparatively\ntimberless country east of the Cascades. Compare this treeless region,\nas well as the profile of Mount Hood here shown, with the view from\nLarch Mountain.]\n\nFamous as is the valley of Chamonix, and noteworthy as are the glaciers\nto which it gives close access, its views of Mont Blanc are\ndisappointing. Not until the visitor has scaled one of the neighboring\n_aiguilles_, can he command a satisfactory outlook toward the Monarch of\nthe Alps. And nowhere in Switzerland do I recall a picture of such\nmemorable splendor as greets the traveler from the Columbia, journeying\neither southward, up the Hood River Valley toward Mount Hood, or\nnorthward, up the White Salmon Valley toward Trout Lake and Mount Adams.\nHere is unrolled a wealth of fertile lowlands, surrounded by lofty\nranges made beautiful by their deep forests and rising to grandeur in\ntheir snow-peaks.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, L. J. HICKS\n\nMount Hood, seen from Larch Mountain, on the Columbia River. View\nlooking southeast across the heavily forested ranges of the Cascades to\nthe deep canyons below Ladd and Sandy glaciers.]\n\n[Illustration: Butterfly on the summit of Mount Hood.]\n\nLeaving the canyon of the Columbia, in either direction the road follows\nswift torrents of white glacial water that tell of a source far above.\nIt crosses a famous valley, among its orchards and hayfields, but always\nin view of the dark blue mountains and of the snow-covered volcanoes\nthat rise before and behind, their glaciers shining like polished steel\nin the sunlight. So the visitor reaches the foot of his mountain. Losing\nsight of it for a time, he follows long avenues of stately trees as he\nclimbs the benches. In a few hours he stands upon a barren shoulder of\nthe peak, at timber line. A new world confronts him. The glaciers reach\ntheir icy arms to him from the summit, and he breathes the winds that\nsweep down from their fields of perennial snow.\n\n[Illustration: Members of Portland Snow-shoe Club on way to Mount Hood\nin winter, and at their club house, near Cloud Cap Inn.]\n\n[Illustration: Fumarole, or gas vent, near Crater Rock.]\n\nIt is all very different from Switzerland, this quick ascent from\nbending orchards and forested hills to a mighty peak standing white and\nbeautiful in its loneliness. But it is so wonderful that Americans who\nlove the heights can no longer neglect it, and each year increasing\nnumbers are discovering that here in the Northwest is mountain scenery\nworth traveling far to see, with very noble mountains to climb, true\nglaciers to explore, and the widest views of grandeur and interest to\nenjoy. Such sport combines recreation and inspiration.\n\n[Illustration: Looking across the head of Eliot glacier from near the\nsummit of Mount Hood.]\n\nThe traveler from Portland to either Mount Hood or Mount Adams may go by\nrail or steamer to Hood River, Oregon, or White Salmon, Washington.\nThese towns are on opposite banks of the Columbia at its point of\ngreatest beauty. Thence he will journey by automobile or stage up the\ncorresponding valley to the snow-peak at its head. If he is bound for\nMount Hood his thirty-mile ride will bring him to a charming mountain\nhotel, Cloud Cap Inn, placed six thousand feet above the sea, on a ridge\noverlooking Eliot glacier, Hood's finest ice stream.\n\n[Illustration: Mount Hood at night, seen from Cloud Cap Inn. This view\nis from a negative exposed from nine o'clock until midnight.]\n\nIf Mount Adams be his destination, a ride of similar length from White\nSalmon will bring him merely to the foot of the mountain. The stages\nrun only to Guler, on Trout Lake, and to Glenwood. Each of these\nvillages has a comfortable country hotel which may be made the base for\nfishing and hunting in the neighborhood. Each is about twelve miles from\nthe snow-line. At either place, guides, horses and supplies may be had\nfor the trip to the mountain. Glenwood is nearer to the famous\nHellroaring Canyon and the glaciers of the southeast side. Guler is a\nfavorite point of departure for the south slope and for the usual route\nto the summit.\n\nAnother popular starting point for Mount Adams is Goldendale, reached by\na branch of the North Bank railway from Lyle on the Columbia. This route\nalso leads to the fine park district on the southeastern slope, and it\nhas a special attraction, as it skirts the remarkable canyon of the\nKlickitat River. Many parties also journey to the mountain from North\nYakima and other towns on the Northern Pacific railway. Hitherto, all\nsuch travel from either north or south has meant a trip on foot or\nhorseback over interesting mountain trails, and has involved the\nnecessity of packing in camp equipment and supplies. During the present\nsummer, a hotel is to be erected a short distance from the end of Mazama\nglacier, at an altitude of about sixty-five hundred feet, overlooking\nHellroaring Canyon on one side, and on the other a delightful region of\nmountain tarns, waterfalls and alpine flower meadows. Its verandas will\ncommand the Mazama and Klickitat glaciers, and an easy route will lead\nto the summit. With practicable roads from Goldendale and Glenwood, it\nshould draw hosts of lovers of scenery and climbing, and aid in making\nthis great mountain as well known as it deserves to be.\n\n[Illustration: Climbing Mount Hood, with ropes anchored on the summit\nand extending down on east and south faces of the peak.]\n\n[Illustration: North side of Mount Hood, seen from moraine of Coe\nglacier. This glacier flows down from the summit, where its snow-field\nadjoins that of Eliot glacier (left). West of the Coe, the Ladd glacier\nis seen, separated from the former by Pulpit Rock, the big crag in the\nmiddle distance, and Barrett Spur, the high ridge on the right.]\n\nVisitors going to Mount Hood from Portland have choice of a second very\nattractive hotel base in Government Camp, on the south slope at an\naltitude of thirty-nine hundred feet. This is reached by automobiles\nfrom the city, over a fair road that will soon be a good road, thanks\nto the Portland Automobile Club. The mountain portion of this highway is\nthe historic Barlow road, opened in 1845, the first wagon road\nconstructed across the Cascades. As the motor climbs out of the Sandy\nRiver valley, and grapples the steep moraines built by ancient\nicefields, the traveler gets a very feeling reminder of the pluck of\nCaptain Barlow and his company of Oregon \"immigrants\" in forcing a way\nacross these rugged heights. But the beauty of the trip makes it well\nworth while, and Government Camp gives access to a side of the peak that\nshould be visited by all who would know how the sun can shatter a big\nmountain with his mighty tools of ice.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nLooking west on summit of Mount Hood, with Mazama Rock below.]\n\n[Illustration: Summit of Mount Hood, from Mazama Rock, showing the\nsun-cupped ice of midsummer.]\n\n[Illustration: Mount Hood, seen from Sandy River canyon, six miles west\nof snow line. This important picture begins with Barrett Spur and Ladd\nglacier on the north sky line (left). On the northwest face of the peak\nis the main Sandy glacier, its end divided by a ridge into two parts.\nThe forested \"plowshare\" projecting into the canyon is Yocum Ridge.\nSouth of it the south branch of the Sandy river flows down from a\nsmaller glacier called the Little Sandy, or Reid. The broad bottom of\nthis canyon and the scored cliffs on its sides show that it was formerly\noccupied by the glacier.]\n\nThe hotel here was erected in 1900 by O. C. Yocum, under whose competent\nguidance many hundreds of climbers reached the summit of Mount Hood. The\nHotel is now owned by Elisha Coalman, who has also succeeded to his\npredecessor's office as guide. During the last year he has enlarged his\ninn, and he is now also building comfortable quarters for climbers at a\ncamp four miles nearer the snow line, on the ridge separating White\nRiver glacier from Zigzag glacier.\n\n\nMOUNT HOOD.\n\nMount Hood is the highest mountain in Oregon, and because of a general\nsymmetry in its pyramidal shape and its clear-cut, far-seen features of\nrock and glacier, it has long been recognized as one of the most\nbeautiful of all American snow peaks. Rising from the crest of the\nCascades, it presents its different profiles and variously sculptured\nfaces to the entire valley of the Columbia, east and west, above which\nit towers in stately magnificence, a very king of the mountains, ruling\nover a domain of ranges, valleys and cities proud of their allegiance.\n\n[Illustration: Crevasses on Coe glacier.]\n\nOn October 20, 1792, Lieutenant Broughton, of Vancouver's exploring\nexpedition in quest of new territories for His Majesty George III.,\ndiscovered from the Columbia near the mouth of the Willamette, \"a very\ndistant high snowy mountain, rising beautifully conspicuous,\" which he\nstrangely mistook to be the source of the great river. Forthwith he\nnamed it in honor of Rear Admiral Samuel Hood, of the British Admiralty\nwho had distinguished himself in divers naval battles during the\nAmerican and French Revolutions.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nMount Hood, with Crevasses of Eliot Glacier in foreground.\n\n                              \"Evermore the wind\n    Is thy august companion; yea, thy peers\n            Are cloud and thunder, and the face sublime\n    Of the blue mid-heaven.\"--Henry Clarence Kendall.]\n\nThe mountain has been climbed more often than any other American\nsnow-peak. The first ascent was made on August 4, 1854, from the south\nside, by a party under Captain Barlow, builder of the \"immigrant road.\"\nOne of the climbers, Editor Dryer of _The Oregonian_, published an\naccount of the trip in which, with more exactness than accuracy, he\nplaced the height of the mountain at 18,361 feet! The most notable\nascent by a large party took place forty years later, when nearly two\nhundred men and women met on the summit, and there, with parliamentary\ndispatch bred of a bitter wind, organized a mountain club which has\nsince become famous. For its title they took the name \"mazama,\" Mexican\nfor the mountain goat, close kin to the Alpine chamois. Membership was\nopened to those who have scaled a snow-peak on foot. By their\npublications and their annual climbs, the Mazamas have done more than\nany other agency to promote interest in our Northwestern mountains.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nCrevasses and Ice Pinnacles on Eliot Glacier, Mount Hood.]\n\n[Illustration: Mount Hood, seen from the top of Barrett Spur. On the\nleft, cascading down from the summit, is Coe glacier; on the right, Ladd\nglacier. The high cliff separating them is \"Pulpit Rock.\"]\n\n[Illustration: Ice Cascade, south side of Mount Hood, near head of White\nRiver glacier.]\n\nMount Hood stands, as I have said, upon the summit of the Cascades. The\nbroad and comparatively level back of the range is here about four\nthousand feet above the sea. Upon this plane the volcano erected its\ncone, chiefly by the expulsion of scori\u00e6 rather than by extensive lava\nflows, to a farther height of nearly a mile and a half. There is no\nreason to suppose that it ever greatly exceeded its present altitude,\nwhich government observations have fixed at 11,225 feet. Its diameter\nat its base is approximately seven miles from east to west.\n\n[Illustration: Little Sandy or Reid glacier, west side of Mount Hood.]\n\nCompared with Mount Adams, its broken and decapitated northern neighbor,\nMount Hood, although probably dating from Miocene time, is still young\nenough to have retained in a remarkable degree the general shape of its\noriginal cone. But as we approach it from any direction, we find\nabundant proof that powerful destructive agents have been busy during\nthe later geological ages. Already the summit plateau upon which the\npeak was built up has been largely dissected by the glaciers and their\nstreams. The whole neighborhood of the mountain is a vastly rugged\ndistrict of glacial canyons and eroded water channels, trenched deep in\nthe soft volcanic ashes and the underlying ancient rock of the range.\nThe mountain itself, although still a pyramid, also has its story of age\nand loss. Its eight glaciers have cut away much of its mass. On three\nsides they have burrowed so deeply into the cone that its original\nangle, which surviving ridges show to have been about thirty degrees,\nhas on the upper glacial slopes been doubled. This is well illustrated\nby the views shown on pages 58, 61, 69 and 71.\n\n[Illustration: Portland Y. M. C. A. party starting for the summit at\ndaybreak. South side of Mount Hood.]\n\n[Illustration: Crater of Mount Hood, seen from south side. Its north rim\nis the distant summit ridge. Steel's Cliff (right) and Illumination Rock\n(left) are parts of east and west rims. The south wall has been torn\naway, but the hard lava core remains in Crater Rock, the cone rising in\ncenter. Note the climbers ascending the \"Hog-back\" or ridge leading from\nCrater Rock up to the \"bergschrund,\" a great crevasse which stretches\nacross the crater at head of the glaciers. The ridge in foreground is\nTriangle Moraine. On its right is White River glacier; on left, the\nfan-shaped Zigzag glacier.]\n\nThis cutting back into the mountain has greatly lessened the area of the\nupper snow-fields. The reservoirs feeding the glaciers, are therefore\nmuch smaller than of old, but, by way of compensation, present a\nseries of most interesting ice formations on the steeper slopes. In this\nrespect, Mount Hood is especially noteworthy among our Northwestern\nsnow-peaks. While larger glaciers are found on other mountains, none are\nmore typical. The glaciers of Hood especially repay study because of\ntheir wonderful variety of ice-falls, terraces, seracs, towers, castles,\npinnacles and crevasses. Winter has fashioned a colossal architecture of\nwild forms.\n\n    Ye ice-falls! ye that from the mountain's brow\n    Adown enormous ravines slope amain,--\n    Torrents, methinks, that heard a mighty voice,\n    And stopped at once amid their maddest plunge!\n    Motionless torrents! silent cataracts!\n\n[Illustration: South side of Mount Hood, seen from crag on\nTom-Dick-and-Harry Ridge, five miles from the snow-line. A thousand feet\nbelow is the hotel called \"Government Camp,\" with the Barlow road, the\nfirst across the Cascades. On left are Zigzag and Sand canyons, cut by\nstreams from Zigzag glacier above.]\n\n[Illustration: Crag on which above view was taken.]\n\nThe visitor who begins his acquaintance with Mount Hood on the north\nside has, from Cloud Cap Inn, four interesting glaciers within a radius\nof a few miles. Immediately before the Inn, Eliot glacier displays its\nentire length of two miles, its snout being only a few rods away. West\nof this, Coe and Ladd glaciers divide the north face with the Eliot. All\nthree have their source in neighboring reservoirs near the summit, which\nhave been greatly reduced in area. This, with the resulting shrinkage\nin the glaciers, is shown by the high lateral moraines left as the width\nof the ice streams has lessened. On the east slope is a fine cliff\nglacier, the Newton Clark, separated from the Eliot by Cooper Spur, a\nlong ridge that furnishes the only feasible north-side route for\nclimbers to the summit.\n\n[Illustration: Part of the \"bergschrund\" above Crater Rock. A\nbergschrund is a crevasse of which the lower side lies much below its\nupper side. It is caused by a sharp fall in the slope, or by the ice at\nthe head of a glacier pulling away from the packed snow above.]\n\nClimbing Cooper Spur is a tedious struggle up a long cinder slope, but\nit has its reward in fine views of the near-by glaciers and a wide\noutlook over the surrounding country. A tramp of three miles from the\nInn covers the easier grade, and brings the climber to a height of eight\nthousand feet. A narrow, snow-covered chine now offers a windy path to\nthe foot of the steeper slope (See p. 60). The climb ends with the\nconquest of a half-mile of vertical elevation over a grade that tests\nmuscle, wind and nerve. This is real mountaineering, and as the novice\nclutches the rocks, or carefully follows in the steps cut by the guide,\nhe recalls a command well adapted to such trying situations: \"Prove all\nthings; hold fast that which is good.\" But the danger is more apparent\nthan real, and the goal is soon reached.\n\n[Illustration: Prof. Harry Fielding Reid and party exploring Zigzag\nglacier, south side of Mount Hood. Illumination Rock is seen beyond.]\n\nThe south-side route, followed by the Barlow party of 1854, was long\ndeemed the only practicable trail to the summit. Many years later,\nWilliam A. Langille discovered the route up from Cooper Spur. The only\naccident charged against this path befell a stranger who was killed in\ntrying to climb it without a guide. Its steepness is, indeed, an\nadvantage, as it requires less time than the other route. Climbers\nfrequently ascend by one trail and descend by the other, thus making the\ntrip between Cloud Cap Inn and Government Camp in a day.\n\n[Illustration: Mazamas climbing the \"Hog-back,\" above Crater Rock, and\npassing this rock on the descent.]\n\nThe actual summit of Mount Hood is a narrow but fairly level platform, a\nquarter of a mile long, which is quickly seen to be part of the rim of\nthe ancient crater. Below it, on the north, are the heads of three\nglaciers already mentioned, the Eliot, Coe and Ladd; and looking down\nupon them, the climber perceives that here the mountain has been so much\ncut away as to be less a slope than a series of precipices, with very\nlimited benches which serve as gathering grounds of snow. (See pp. 55,\n67 and 70.) These shelves feed the lower ice-streams with a diet of\navalanches that is year by year becoming less bountiful as this front\nbecomes more steep. Soon, indeed, geologically speaking, the present\nsummit, undermined by the ice, must fall, and the mountain take on a new\naspect, with a lower, broader top. Thus while the beautiful verse which\nI have quoted under the view of Mount Hood from White Salmon (p. 56) is\nadmirable poetry, its last line is very poor geology. This, however,\nneed not deter any present-day climbers!\n\nOn the south side of the summit ridge a vastly different scene is\npresented. Looking down over its easy slope, one recognizes even more\nclearly than from the north-side view that Mount Hood is merely a wreck\nof its former graceful cone, a torn and disintegrating remnant, with\nvery modest pretensions to symmetry, after all, but still a fascinating\nexhibit of the work of such Gargantuan forces as hew and whittle such\npeaks.\n\n[Illustration: Portland Ski Club on south side of Mount Hood, above\nGovernment Camp.]\n\nThe crater had a diameter of about half a mile. Its north rim remains in\nthe ridge on which our climber stands. All the rest of its circumference\nhas been torn away, but huge fragments of its wall are seen far below,\non the right and left, in \"cleavers\" named respectively Illumination\nRock and Steel's Cliff. One of these recalls several displays of red\nfire on the mountain by the Mazamas. The other great abutment was\nchristened in honor of the first president of that organization.\n\nApart from these ridges, the entire rim is missing; but below the\nspectator, at what must have been the center of its circle, towers a\ngreat cone of lava, harder than the andesitic rocks and the scori\u00e6 which\ncompose the bulk of the mountain. This is known as Crater Rock. It is\nthe core of the crater, formed when the molten lava filling its neck\ncooled and hardened. Around it the softer mass has worn down to the\ngeneral grade of the south slope, which extends five miles from just\nbelow the remaining north rim at the head of the glaciers to the\nneighborhood of Government Camp, far down on the Cascade plateau. The\ngrade is much less than thirty degrees. Over the slope flow down two\nglaciers, the Zigzag on the west, and the White River glacier on the\neast, of Crater Rock.\n\n[Illustration: Mount Hood Lily.\n\n(_L. Washingtonianum_)]\n\nIt is sometimes said that the south side of the old summit was blown\naway by a terrific explosion. That is improbable, in view of Crater\nRock, which indicates a dormant volcano when the south side was\ndestroyed. The mountain was doubtless rent by ice rather than by fire.\nThe mass of ice and snow in and upon the crater broke apart the\ncomparatively loose wall, and pushed its shattered tuffs and cinders far\ndown the slopes. Forests were buried, old canyons were filled, and the\nwhole southwest side of the mountain was covered with the fan-shaped\noutwash from the breach. Through this debris of the ancient crater the\nstreams at the feet of the glaciers below are cutting vast ravines which\ncan be seen from the heights above. (See illustrations, pp. 77-81.)\n\n[Illustration: Mazama party exploring White River glacier, Mount Hood.]\n\nThe central situation of Mount Hood makes the view from its summit\nespecially worth seeking. From the Pacific to the Blue Mountains, south\nalmost to the California line, and north as far, it embraces an area\nequal to a great state, with four hundred miles of the undulating\nCascade summits and a dozen calm and radiant snow-peaks. The Columbia\nwinds almost at its foot, and a multitude of lakes, dammed by glacial\nmoraines and lava dikes, nestle in its shadow. This view \"covers more\nhistory,\" as Lyman points out, than that from any other of our peaks.\nAbout its base the Indians hunted, fished and warred. Across its flank\nrolled the great tide of Oregon immigration, in the days of the ox-team\nand settler's wagon. It has seen the building of two states. It now\nlooks benignly down upon the prosperous agriculture and growing cities\nof the modern Columbia basin, and no doubt contemplates with serenity\nthe time when its empire shall be one of the most populous as it is one\nof the most beautiful and fertile regions in America. No wonder the\nshapely mountain lifts its head with pride!\n\n[Illustration: Newton Clark glacier, east side of Mt. Hood, seen from\nCooper Spur, with Mt. Jefferson fifty miles south.]\n\nReturning to the glaciers of the north side, we note that all three end\nat an altitude close to six thousand feet. None of them has cut a deep,\nbroad bed for itself like the great radiating canyons which dissect the\nRainier National Park and protect its glaciers down to a level averaging\nfour thousand feet. Instead, these glaciers lie up on the side of Mount\nHood, in shallow beds which they no longer fill; and are banked between\ndouble and even triple border moraines, showing successive advances and\nretreats of the glaciers. (See illustration, top of p. 59.) The larger\nmoraines stand fifty to a hundred feet above the present ice-streams,\nthus indicating the former glacier levels. No vegetation appears on\nthese desolate rock and gravel dikes. The retreat of the glaciers was\ntherefore comparatively recent.\n\n[Illustration: Looking from Mount Jefferson, along the summits of the\nCascades, to Mount Hood.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nShadow of Mount Hood, seen from Newton Clark glacier shortly before\nsunset. View shows two branches of East Fork of Hood River, fed by the\nglacier, and the canyon of the East Fork, turning north. Beyond it\n(left) are Tygh Hills and wheat fields of the Dufur country. On the\nright is Juniper Flat, with the Deschutes canyon far beyond.]\n\n[Illustration: Snout of Newton Clark glacier.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, B. A. GIFFORD\n\nMount Hood and Hood River, seen from a point twenty miles north of the\nmountain.]\n\nEliot glacier has been found by measurement near its end, to have a\nmovement of about fifty feet a year. On the steeper slope above, it is\ndoubtless much greater. All the three glaciers are heavily covered, for\ntheir last half mile, with rocks and dirt which they have freighted down\nfrom the cliffs above, or dug up from their own beds in transit. None of\nthe lateral moraines extends more than two or three hundred yards below\nthe snout of its glacier. Each glacier, at its end, drops its remnant of\nice into a deep V-shaped ravine, in which, not far below, trees of good\nsize are growing. Hence it would not seem that these north-side\nglaciers have ever extended much farther than they do at present. The\nravine below Eliot glacier, however, half a mile from the snout, is said\nto show glacial markings on its rocky sides. It is evident, in any case,\nthat the deep V cuttings now found below the glaciers are work of the\nstreams. If these glaciers extended farther, it was at higher levels\nthan their present stream channels. As the glaciers receded, their\nstreams have cut the deep gorges in the soft conglomerates. Between\nEliot and Coe glaciers are large snow-fields, ending much farther up\nthan do the glaciers; and below these, too, the streams have trenched\nthe slope. (See illustration, p. 57.)\n\n[Illustration: Lava Flume near Trout Lake, about thirty feet wide and\nforty feet high.]\n\n[Illustration: Y. M. C. A. party from North Yakima at Red Butte, an\nextinct volcano on north side of Mount Adams.]\n\nBetween Coe and Ladd glaciers is a high rocky ridge known as Barrett\nSpur, from which, at nearly 8,000 feet, one may obtain glorious views of\nthe peak above, the two glaciers sweeping down its steep face and the\nsea of ranges stretching westward. (See illustrations, pp. 69 and 75.)\nBarrett Spur may have been part of the original surface of the mountain,\nbut is more likely the remnant of a secondary cone, ice and weathering\nhaving destroyed its conical shape. From its top, the climber looks over\ninto the broad-bottomed canyon of Sandy River, fed by the large and\nsmall Sandy glaciers of the west slope. (See pp. 71 and 76.) This canyon\nand that of the Zigzag River, south of it, from Zigzag glacier, are\n\"plainly glacier-sculptured,\" as Sylvester declares. The same is true of\nthe canyon lying below the White River glacier, on the southeast slope.\nIn journeying to Government Camp, one may see abundant evidence of the\nglacial origin of the Sandy and Zigzag canyons. The White River Canyon\nhas been thoroughly explored and described by Prof. Reid.\n\nAll three of these wide U-shaped canyons were once occupied by great\nglaciers, which left their record in the scorings upon the sides of the\ngorges; in the mesas of finely ground moraine which they spread over the\nbottoms and through which the modern rivers have cut deep ravines; in\ntrees broken and buried by the glaciers in this drift; in the fossil ice\nlying beneath it, and in huge angular boulders left standing on the\nvalley floors, several miles from the mountain.\n\n[Illustration: Ice Cave in lava beds near Trout Lake.]\n\nSandy glacier extends three hundred feet farther down the slope than do\nthe north-side glaciers, but the Zigzag and White River glaciers,\nflowing out of the crater, end a thousand feet higher. This is due not\nonly to the smaller reservoirs which feed them and to their southern\nexposure, but also doubtless to the easier grade, which holds the ice\nlonger on the slope. On the east side of the peak is a broad ice-stream,\nthe Newton Clark glacier, which also ends at a high altitude, dropping\nits ice over a cliff into deep ravines at the head of East Fork of Hood\nRiver. This glacier, well seen from Cooper Spur, completes the circuit\nof the mountain. (See pp. 83 and 84.)\n\n[Illustration: Mount Adams, elevation 12,307 feet.]\n\nSylvester suggests that Mount Hood may not be extinct but sleeping. For\nthis, however, there is little more evidence that may be discovered on\nother Northwestern peaks. About Crater Rock, steam jets are found, gas\nescapes, and the rocks are warm in many places. \"Fumaroles\" exist, where\nthe residuary heat causes openings in the snow bed. Sylvester reports\ndense smoke and steam issuing from Crater Rock by day and a brilliant\nillumination there at night, in August, 1907. But volcanoes sometimes\ncontradict prophecy, and no further intimations of trouble having since\nbeen offered, this display may be deemed the last gasp of a dying\nmonster rather than an awakening toward new life.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nTelephoto view of Mount Adams, from the northeast side of Mount St.\nHelens, at elevation of 7,000 feet, overlooking the densely timbered\nranges of the Cascades.]\n\n\nMOUNT ADAMS.\n\n[Illustration: Mount Adams from Trout Creek, at Guler, near Trout Lake;\ndistance twelve miles.]\n\n[Illustration: Climbers on South Butte, the hard lava neck of a crater\non south slope, left by weathering of the softer materials of its cone.\nElevation, 7,800 feet. The usual route to summit leads up the talus on\nright.]\n\nGoing up the White Salmon Valley toward Mount Adams, the visitor quickly\nrealizes that he is in a different geological district from that around\nMount Hood. The Oregon peak is mainly a pile of volcanic rocks and\ncinders ejected from its crater. Little hard basalt is found, and in all\nits circumference I know of only one large surface area of new lava.\nThis is a few miles north of Cloud Cap, and so recent that no trees\ngrow on it. But north of the Columbia, one meets evidences of\ncomparatively recent lava sheets in many parts of the valley. Some\nobviously have no connection with Mount Adams; they flowed out of\nfissures on the ridges. But these beds of volcanic rock become more\napparent, and are less covered with soil, as we approach the mountain,\nuntil, long before timber line is reached, dikes and streams of basalt,\nas yet hardly beginning to disintegrate, are found on all sides of the\npeak.\n\n[Illustration: Dawn on Mount Adams, telephotographed from Guler, at 4 a.\nm., showing the three summit peaks, of which the middle one is the\nhighest. The route of the climbers is up the south slope, seen on\nright.]\n\n[Illustration: Foraging in the snow. The Mount Adams country supports\nhundreds of large flocks of sheep.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER\n\nSteel's Cliff, southeast side of Mount Hood. In the distance is seen\nJuniper Flat, in eastern Oregon.]\n\nThe form and slope of Mount Adams tell of an age far greater than Mount\nHood's, but its story is not, like that of Hood, the legible record of a\nsimple volcanic cone. It wholly lacks the symmetry of such a pile.\nViewed from a distance, it sits very majestically upon the summit of one\nof the eastern ranges of the Cascades. As we approach, however, it is\nseen to have little of the conical shape of Hood, still less that of\ngraceful St. Helens, which is young and as yet practically unbroken. Its\nsummit has been much worn down by ice or perhaps by explosions. Some\nof its sides are deeply indented, and all are vastly irregular in angle\nand markings--here a face now too steeply cut to hold a glacier, but\nshowing old glacial scorings far down its slope; there another terraced\nand ribbed with waves and dikes of lava. The mountain is a long ridge\nrather than a round peak, and close inspection shows it to be a\ncomposite of several great cones, leaning one upon another,--the product\nof many craters acting in successive ages. On its ancient, scarred\nslopes, a hundred modern vents have added to the ruggedness and interest\nof the peak. Many of these blowholes built parasitic cones, from which\nthe snows of later centuries have eroded the loose external mass,\nleaving only the hard lava cores upstanding like obelisks. Other vents\nbelched out vast sheets of rock that will require a century more of\nweathering to make hospitable even to the sub-alpine trees most humble\nin their demands for soil.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER.\n\nIce Castle and great Crevasse, near the head of Eliot Glacier, Mt. Hood.\n\n\n    \"Touched by a light that hath no name,\n          A glory never sung,\n    Aloft on sky and mountain wall\n          Are God's great pictures hung.\"--Whittier.]\n\n[Illustration: Mazamas climbing a 40\u00b0 stairway of shattered basalt,\nnorth side of Mount Adams.]\n\n[Illustration: Mount Adams from one of the many lakes on its southeast\nslope. On ridge above, near the end of Mazama glacier, a hotel is to be\nerected.]\n\nMount Adams therefore presents a greater variety of history, a more\ncomplex and fascinating problem for the student to unravel, than any of\nits neighbors. This interest extends to the district about it, a\ncountry of new lava flows covering much of the older surface. The same\nconditions mark the region surrounding the newer peak, St. Helens,\nthirty miles west. In each district, sheets of molten rock have been\npoured across an ancient and heavily forested land. Thus as we travel up\nthe rich valleys leading from the Columbia to either peak, we meet\neverywhere the phenomena of vulcanism.\n\n[Illustration: Climbers ascending from South Peak to Middle Peak on\nMount Adams, with the \"bergschrund\" above Klickitat glacier on right.\nThis central dome is about 500 feet higher than South Peak.]\n\n[Illustration: Mount Adams, seen from Happy Valley, south side.\nElevation about 7,000 feet. Mazama glacier is on right.]\n\nThe lava sheet flowing around or over a standing or fallen tree took a\nperfect impression of its trunk and bark. Thousands of these old tree\ncasts are found near both Adams and St. Helens. Where the lava reached a\nwatercourse, it flowed down in a deeper stream, a river of liquid rock.\nLava is a poor conductor of heat; hence the stream cooled more quickly\non the surface than below. Soon a crust was formed, like the ice over a\ncreek in winter. Under it the lava flowed on and out, as the flood\nstopped, leaving a gallery or flume. Later flows filled the great drain\nagain and again, adding new strata to its roof, floor and sides, and\nlessening its bore. Long after the outflows ceased, weathering by heat\nand frost broke openings here and there. Many of the flumes were choked\nwith drift. But others, in the newer lava beds, may be explored for\nmiles. It was from the lava caves of northern California that the Modoc\nIndians waged their famous war in the Seventies.\n\n[Illustration: Mount Adams, from Snow-Plow Mountain, three miles\nsoutheast of the snow line; elevation 5,070 feet, overlooking the broad\n\"park\" country west of Hellroaring Canyon.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, S. C. SMITH\n\nWind-whittled ice near the summit of Mount Adams.]\n\nThe disintegration of the lava galleries in the Mount Adams field has of\ncourse produced caves of all sorts and sizes. Where one of these is\nclosed at one end with debris, so that the summer air cannot circulate\nto displace the heavier cold remaining from winter, the cave, if it has\na water supply, becomes an ice factory. The Trout Lake district has\nseveral interesting examples of such _glacieres_, as they have been\nnamed, where one may take refuge from July or August heat above ground,\nand, forty feet below, in a cave well protected from sun and summer\nbreeze, find great masses of ice, with more perhaps still forming as\nwater filters in from a surface lake or an underground spring. The\nColumbia River towns as far away as Portland and The Dalles formerly\nobtained ice from the Trout Lake caves, but at present they supply only\nsome near-by farmers.\n\n[Illustration: Mazama glacier, at head of Hellroaring Canyon. Upper view\nshows floor of canyon, a mile below the glacier, with the \"Ridge of\nWonders\" on right. Lower view is from ridge west of the canyon, near end\nof Mazama glacier, elevation nearly 7,000 feet. Note great lateral\nmoraine which the glacier has built on left.]\n\nMount Adams is ascended without difficulty by either its north or south\nslope. On the east and west faces, the cliffs and ice cascades appall\neven the expert alpinist. As yet, so far as I can learn, no ascents have\nbeen made over these slopes. The southern route is the more popular one.\nIt leads by well-marked trails up from Guler or Glenwood, over a\nsuccession of terraces clad in fine, open forest; ascends McDonald\nRidge, amid increasing barriers of lava; passes South Butte, a decaying\npillar of red silhouetted against the black rocks and white snow-fields;\ncrosses many a caldron of twisted and broken basalt,--\"Devil's Half\nAcres\" that once were the hot, vomiting mouths of drains from the fiery\nheart of the peak; scales a giants' stairway tilted to forty degrees,\noverlooking the west branch of Mazama glacier on one side and a small\nunnamed glacier on the other; and at last gains the broad shoulder which\nprojects far on the south slope. (See illustrations, pp. 89 and 93.)\n\n[Illustration: Nearing the summit, south side.]\n\n[Illustration: Upper Ice Cascade of Klickitat glacier.]\n\nHere, from a height of nine thousand feet, we look down on the low, wide\nreservoir of Mazama glacier on the east, and up to the ice-falls above\nKlickitat glacier on the higher slopes beyond. The great platform on\nwhich we stand was built up by a crater, three thousand feet below the\nsummit. The climb to it has disclosed the fact that the mountain is\ncomposed mostly of lava. Some of the ravine cuttings have shown lapilli\nand cinders, but these are rarer than on the other Northwestern peaks.\nThe harder structure has resisted the erosion which is cutting so deeply\ninto the lower slopes of Hood. On Mount Adams, not only do the glaciers,\nwith one or two notable exceptions, lie up on the general surface of the\nmountain, banked by their moraines; but their streams have cut few deep\nravines.\n\n[Illustration: An Upland \"Park,\" west of Hellroaring Canyon.]\n\n[Illustration: Mount Adams, from the Ridge of Wonders, showing the great\namphitheater or \"cirque\" of Klickitat glacier, fed by avalanches from\nthe summit plateau. This is the most important example of glacial\nsculpture on the mountain. Beyond, on the right, is seen the head of\nRusk glacier, while on the left is Mazama glacier. Note the stunted\nsub-alpine trees scattered thinly over this ridge, even up to an\naltitude of 7,000 feet.]\n\n[Illustration: Storm on Klickitat Glacier, seen from the Ridge of\nWonders.]\n\nFrom this point, the route becomes steeper, but is still over talus,\nuntil the first of the three summit elevations, known as South Peak, is\nreached. This is only five hundred feet below the actual summit, Middle\nPeak, which is gained by a short, hard pull, generally over snow.\n(See p. 94.) The north-side route is up a long, sharp ridge between Lava\nand Adams glaciers (p. 104). Like the other path, its grade is at first\neasy; but its last half mile of elevation is achieved over a slope even\nsteeper, and ending in a longer climb over the snow. Neither route,\nhowever, offers so hard a finish as that which ends the Mount Hood\nclimb. From the timber-line on either side, the ascent requires six or\nseven hours.\n\n[Illustration: Snow cornice above the bergschrund at head of Klickitat\nglacier, with another part of the same crevasse.]\n\nThe summit ridge is nearly a mile long and two-thirds as wide. It is the\ngathering ground of the snows that feed Klickitat, Lyman, Adams and\nWhite Salmon glaciers. (See map, p. 87.) Mazama, Rusk, Lava, Pinnacle\nand Avalanche glaciers lie beneath cliffs too steep to carry\nice-streams. Their income is mainly collected from the slopes, and if\nthey receive snow from the broad summit at all, it is chiefly in the\navalanches of early summer. Nearly all the glaciers, however, are thus\nfed in part, the steep east and west faces making Mount Adams famous for\nits avalanches.\n\n[Illustration: Mount Adams, seen from the northeast, with the Lyman\nglaciers in center, Rusk glacier on extreme left, and Lava glacier,\nright. The ridge beyond Lava glacier is the north-side route to the\nsummit. The Lyman glaciers, like Adams glacier on the northwest side,\nare noteworthy for their cascades of ice.]\n\nFrom the summit on either side, the climber may look down sheer for half\na mile to the reservoirs and great ice cascades of the glaciers below.\nIt is seen that with the exception of the Rusk and Klickitat, which\nare deeply embedded in canyons, the glaciers spread out, fan-like, on\nthe lower slopes, and are held up by their moraines. Most of them end at\nelevations considerably above six thousand five hundred feet. The\ndifference in this respect between Adams and Hood is due, no doubt, to\nlighter rainfall.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, ASAHEL CURTIS\n\nMount Adams from Sunnyside, Washington, with irrigation \"ditch\" in\nforeground.]\n\n[Illustration: Crevasse in Lava glacier, north side of Mount Adams.]\n\nOf the two glaciers just mentioned the Klickitat is the larger and more\ntypical. The Rusk, however, is of interest because it flows, greatly\ncrevassed, down a narrow flume or couloir on the east slope. Its bed,\nReid suggests, may have been the channel of \"a former lava flow, which,\nhardening on the surface, allowed the liquid lava inside to flow out;\nand later the top broke in.\" The Klickitat glacier lies in a much larger\ncanyon, which it has evidently cut for itself. This is one of the most\ncharacteristic glacial amphitheaters in America, resembling, though on a\nsmaller scale, the vast Carbon glacier _cirque_ which is the crowning\nglory of the Rainier National Park. The Klickitat basin is a mile wide.\nInto it two steep ice-streams cascade from the summit, and avalanches\nfall from a cliff which rises two thousand feet between them. (See pp.\n98 and 99.)\n\n[Illustration: North Peak of Mount Adams, with The Mountaineers\nbeginning their ascent, in 1911. Their route led up the ridge seen here,\nwhich divides Lava glacier, on the left, from Adams glacier, on extreme\nright.]\n\nThe glacier is more than two miles long. It ends at an elevation of less\nthan six thousand feet, covered with debris from a large medial moraine\nformed by the junction of the two tributary glaciers. Like the other\nMount Adams glaciers, and indeed nearly all glaciers in the northern\nhemisphere, it is shrinking, and has built several moraines on each\nside. These extend half a mile below its present snout, and the inner\nmoraines are underlaid with ice, showing the retreat has been recent.\n\nSouth of the Klickitat glacier, a part of the original surface of the\npeak remains in the great Ridge of Wonders. Rising a thousand feet above\nthe floor of Hellroaring Canyon, which was formerly occupied by Mazama\nglacier, now withdrawn to the slope above, this is the finest\nobservation point on the mountain. \"The wonderful views of the eastern\nprecipices and glaciers,\" says Reid, \"the numerous dikes, the well\npreserved parasitic cone of Little Mount Adams, and the curious forms of\nvolcanic bombs scattered over its surface entirely justify the name Mr.\nRusk has given to this ridge.\"\n\n[Illustration: Snow Bridge over Killing Creek, north of Mount Adams.]\n\nAdams glacier, upon the northwest slope, with a length of three miles,\nis the largest on the mountain. This and the two beautiful ice streams\non the northeast, named after Prof. W. D. Lyman, are notable for their\nice-falls, half-mile drops of tumbling, frozen rivers.\n\nThe naming of the mountain was a result of the movement started by Hall\nJ. Kelley, the Oregon enthusiast, in 1839. The northwestern snow-peaks,\nso far as shown in maps of the period, bore the names given by\nVancouver as part of his annexation for George III. The utility, beauty\nand historic fitness of the significant Indian place names did not occur\nto a generation busy in ousting the Indian from his land; but our\ngrandfathers remembered George III. Kelley and other patriotic men of\nthe time proposed to call the Cascades the \"Presidents' Range,\" and to\nchristen the several snow-peaks for individual ex-presidents of the\nUnited States. But the second quarter of the last century knew little\nabout Oregon, and cared less. The well-meant but premature effort\nfailed, and the only names of the presidents which have stuck are Adams\nand Jefferson. Lewis and Clark mistook Mount Adams for St. Helens, and\nestimated it \"perhaps the highest pinnacle in America.\" The Geological\nSurvey has found its height to be 12,307 feet. Mount Adams was first\nclimbed in 1854 by a party in which were Col. B. F. Shaw, Glenn Aiken\nand Edward J. Allen.\n\n[Illustration: North-side Cleaver, with Lava glacier on left. This sharp\nspine was climbed by The Mountaineers and the North Yakima Y. M. C. A.\nparty in 1911.]\n\n\nMOUNT ST. HELENS.\n\nThe world was indebted for its first knowledge of Mount St. Helens to\nVancouver. Its name is one of the batch which he fastened in 1792 upon\nour Northwestern landmarks. These honored a variety of persons, ranging\nfrom Lord St. Helens, the diplomat, and pudgy Peter Rainier, of the\nBritish Admiralty, down to members of the explorer's crew.\n\n[Illustration: Looking across Adams glacier, northwest side of Mount\nAdams, from ridge shown above.]\n\n[Illustration: \"The Mountain that Was 'God',\" the great peak which the\nIndians reverenced and named \"Tacoma,\" seen above the clouds of a rainy\nday, from the summit of Mount Adams, distant forty miles.\n\n      \"This,\" said a well-known lecturer, as the picture was\n      thrown upon his screen, \"is the scene the angels look\n      down upon!\"]\n\nThe youngest of the Cascade snow-peaks, St. Helens is also the most\nsymmetrical in its form, and to many of its admirers the most beautiful.\nUnlike Hood and Adams, it does not stand upon the narrow summit of one\nof the Cascade ranges, but rises west of the main ridges of that\nsystem from valley levels about one thousand feet above the sea.\nSurrounded by comparatively low ridges, it thus presents its perfect and\nimpressive cone for almost its entire height of ten thousand feet.\n\n[Illustration: Northwest slope of Mount Adams, with Adams glacier, three\nmiles long, the largest on the mountain. It has an ice-fall of two\nthousand feet. The low-lying reservoir of Pinnacle glacier is on extreme\nright, and the head of Lava glacier on left.]\n\nThe mountain is set well back from the main traveled roads, in the great\nforest of southwestern Washington. It is the center of a fine lake and\nriver district which attracts sportsmen as well as mountain climbers. A\nlarge company visiting it must carry in supplies and camp equipment, but\nsmall parties may find accommodation at Spirit Lake on the north, and\nPeterson's ranch on Lewis River, south of the peak. The first is four,\nthe second is eight, miles from the snow line. Visitors from Portland,\nTacoma or Seattle, bound for the north side, leave the railway at Castle\nRock, whence a good automobile road (forty-eight miles) leads to the\nsouth side of Spirit Lake. Peterson's may be reached by road from\nWoodland (forty-five miles) or from Yacolt (thirty miles). Well-marked\ntrails lead from either base to camping grounds at timber line. The\nmountain is climbed by a long, easy slope on the south, or by a much\nsteeper path on the north.\n\nLike Mount Adams, St. Helens is largely built of lava, but the outflows\nhave been more recent here than upon or near the greater peak. The\nvolcano was in eruption several times between 1830 and 1845. The sky at\nVancouver was often darkened, and ashes were carried as far as The\nDalles. To these disturbances, probably, are due the great outflows of\nnew lava covering the south and west sides of the mountain, and much of\nthe country between it and the North Fork of Lewis River. The molten\nstream flowed westward to Goat Mountain and the \"Buttes,\" of which it\nmade islands; threw a dike across a watercourse and created Lake\nMerrill; and turning southward, filled valleys and overwhelmed good\nforest with sheets of basalt. Upon the slope just north of Peterson's, a\ngreat synclinal thus buried presents one of the latest pages in the\nvolcanic history of the Columbia basin.\n\n[Illustration: Mount Adams from the southwest, with White Salmon glacier\n(left) and Avalanche glacier (right) flowing from a common source, the\ncleft between North and Middle Peaks. The latter, however, derives most\nof its support from slopes farther to right. Note the huge terminal\nmoraines built by these glaciers in their retreat. Pinnacle glacier is\non extreme left.]\n\n[Illustration: Mount St. Helens, elevation 10,000 feet.]\n\nMany hours may be spent with interest upon this lava bed. It is an area\nof the wildest violence, cast in stone. Swift, ropy streams, cascades,\nwhirling eddies, all have been caught in their course. \"Devil's Punch\nBowl,\" \"Hell's Kitchen,\" \"Satan's Stairway\" are suggestive phrases of\nlocal description. The underground galleries here are well worth\nvisiting. Tree tunnels and wells abound. Most important of all, the\nstruggle seen everywhere of the forest to gain a foothold on this iron\nsurface illustrates Nature's method of hiding so vast and terrible a\ncallus upon her face. It is evident that the healing of the wound began\nas soon as the lava cooled, and that, while still incomplete, it is\nunceasingly prosecuted. (See p. 111.)\n\n[Illustration: Scenes in the canyon of the North Fork of Lewis River,\nfed by the glaciers of Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, B. A. GIFFORD\n\nColumbia River and Mount Adams, seen from Hood River, Oregon.\n\n    \"And forests ranged like armies, round and round\n          At feet of mountains of eternal snow;\n    And valleys all alive with happy sound,--\n          The song of birds; swift streams' delicious flow;\n    The mystic hum of million things that grow.\"--Helen Hunt Jackson.]\n\nThe first volcanic dust from the uneasy crater of St. Helens had no\nsooner lodged in some cleft opened by the contraction of cooling than a\nspore or seed carried by the wind or dropped by a bird made a start\ntoward vegetation. Failing moisture, and checked by lack of soil, the\nlichen or grass or tiny shrub quickly yielded its feeble existence in\npreparation for its successor. The procession of rain and sun encouraged\nother futile efforts to find rootage. Each of these growths\nlengthened by its decay the life of the next. With winter came frost,\nscaling flakes from the hard surface, or penetrating the joints and\nopening fissures in the basalt. Further refuge was thus made ready for\nthe dust and seeds and moisture of another season. The moss and plants\nwere promoters as well as beneficiaries of this disintegration. Their\nsmallest rootlets found the water in the heart of the rocks, and growing\nstrong upon it, shattered their benefactors.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.\n\nSouthwest side of Mount Adams, reflected in Trout Lake, twelve miles\nsouth of the mountain.]\n\n[Illustration: Scenes on great lava field south of Mount St. Helens. The\nlodgepole pine thicket above shows struggle of forest to gain a foothold\non the rich soil slowly forming over new volcanic rock. The peak itself,\nwith stunted forest at its base, is seen next; and below, one of many\n\"tree tunnels,\" formed when the lava flowed over or around a tree,\ntaking a perfect cast of its bark.]\n\nSoon more ambitious enterprises were undertaken. Huckleberry bushes,\nfearless even of so unfriendly a surface, started from every depression\namong the rocks. The first small trees appeared. Weakling pines, dwarf\nfirs and alders, shot up for a few feet of hurried growth in the spring\nmoisture, taking the unlikely chance of surviving the later drought.\nHere and there a seedling outlasted the long, dry summer, and began to\nbe a real tree. Quickly exhausting its little handful of new earth, the\ndaring upstart must have perished had not the melting snows brought\nhelp. They filled the hollows with wash from the higher slopes. The\ntreelets found that their day had come, and seizing upon these rich but\nshallow soil beds, soon covered them with thickets of spindling\nlodgepole pines and deciduous brush. Such pygmy forests are at length\ncommon upon this great field of torn and decaying rock, and all are\nmaking their contributions of humus year by year to the support of\nfuture tree giants. These will rise by survival of the fittest as the\nforest floor deepens and spreads.\n\n[Illustration: Lava Flume south of Mount St. Helens, a tunnel several\nmiles in length, about twenty feet high and fifteen feet wide.]\n\n[Illustration: Entrance to Lava Cave shown above. Note strata in roof,\nshowing successive lava flows; also ferns growing from roof.]\n\n[Illustration: Telephotograph of Mount St. Helens, from the lower part\nof Portland, with the summit peaks of Mount Rainier-Tacoma in distance\non left, and the Willamette River in foreground.]\n\nSt. Helens, although much visited, has not yet been officially surveyed\nor mapped. Its glaciers are not named, nor has the number of true\nice-streams been determined. Those on the south and southwest are\ninsignificant. Elsewhere, the glaciers are short and broad, and with one\nexception, occupy shallow beds. On the southeast, there is a remarkable\ncleft, shown on page 115, which is doubtless due to volcanic causes\nrather than erosion, and from which the largest glacier issues. Another\ntypical glacier, distinguished by the finest crevasses and ice-falls on\nthe peak, tumbles down a steep, shallow depression on the north slope,\nwest of the battered parasitic cone of \"Black Butte.\" West of this\nglacier, in turn, ridges known as the \"Lizard\" and the \"Boot\" mark the\ncustomary north-side path to the summit. (See p. 118.) Beyond these\nlandmarks, on the west side of the peak, a third considerable glacier\nfeeds South Toutle River. The ravines cut by this stream will repay a\nvisit. (See p. 116.)\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, JAS. WAGGENER, JR.\n\nMount St. Helens, from Chelatchie Prairie on Lewis River, distance\ntwenty miles. Shows a typical farm clearing in the forest.]\n\n[Illustration: Mount St. Helens, seen from Twin Buttes, twenty miles\naway, across the Cascades. View shows the remarkable cleft or canyon on\nthe southeast face of the peak.]\n\nThe slopes not covered with new lava sheets and dikes exhibit, below the\nsnow-line, countless bombs hurled up from the crater, with great fields\nof pumice embedding huge angular rocks that tell a story not written on\nour other peaks. These hard boulders, curiously different from the soft\nmaterials in which they lie, were fragments of the tertiary platform on\nwhich the cone was erected. Torn off by the volcano, as it enlarged its\nbore, they were shot out without melting or change in substance. On\nevery hand is proof that this now peaceful snow-mountain, which\nresembles nothing else so much as a well-filled saucer of ice cream, had\na hot temper in its youth, and has passed some bad days even since the\ncoming of the white man.\n\nThe mountain was first climbed in August, 1853, by a party which\nincluded the same T. J. Dryer who, a year later, took part in the first\nascent of Mount Hood. In a letter to _The Oregonian_ he said the party\nconsisted of \"Messrs. Wilson, Smith, Drew and myself.\" They ascended the\nsouth side. The other slopes were long thought too steep to climb, but\nin 1893 Fred G. Plummer, of Tacoma, now Geographer of the United States\nForest Service, ascended the north side. His party included Leschi, a\nKlickitat Indian, probably the first of his superstitious race to scale\na snow-peak. The climbers found evidence of recent activity in two\ncraters on the north slope, and photographed a curious \"diagonal\nmoraine,\" as regular in shape as a railway embankment, which connected\nthe border moraines of a small glacier. The north side has since seen\nfrequent ascents.\n\n[Illustration: Canyons of South Toutle River, west side of St. Helens.\nThese vast trenches in the soft pumice show by their V shape that they\nhave been cut by streams from the glaciers above, rather than by the\nglaciers themselves, which, on this young peak, have probably never had\na much greater extension.]\n\nThe Mazamas, who had climbed St. Helens from the south in 1898, again\nascended it in 1908, climbing by the Lizard and Boot. This outing\nfurnished the most stirring chapter in the annals of American\nmountaineering.\n\n[Illustration: Lower Toutle Canyon, seen on left above. Note shattered\nvolcanic bomb.]\n\n[Illustration: Northeast side of Mount St. Helens, from elevation of\n6,000 feet, with Black Butte on the right.]\n\n[Illustration: The Mazamas on summit of St. Helens shortly before\nsunset. The rocks showing above the snow are parts of the rim of the\nextinct crater. Mount Adams is seen, thirty-five miles away, on the\nright, while Rainier-Tacoma is forty-five miles north. Photograph taken\nat 7:15 p. m. The party did not get back to their camp till long after\nmidnight.]\n\nThe north-side route proved unexpectedly hard. After an all-day climb,\nthe party reached the summit only at seven o'clock. The descent after\nnightfall required seven hours. The risk was great. Over the collar of\nice near the summit, at a grade of more than sixty degrees, the\ntwenty-five men and women slowly crept in steps cut by the leaders, and\nclutching a single fifty-foot rope. Later came the bombardment of loose\nrocks, as the party scattered down the slope. I quote from an account by\nFrank B. Riley, secretary of the club, who was one of the leaders:\n\n      The safety of the entire party was in the keeping of\n      each member. One touch of hysteria, one slip of the\n      foot, one instant's loss of self-control, would have\n      precipitated the line, like a row of bricks, on the\n      long plunge down the ice cliff. Eight times the party\n      stood poised on its scanty foothold while the rope was\n      lowered. When, after an hour and a half, its last\n      member stepped in safety upon the rocks, there yet lay\n      before it five hours of work ere the little red eyes\n      below should widen into welcoming campfires.\n\n      Over great ridges, down into vast snowfields, for\n      hours they plunged and slid, while scouts ahead\n      shouted back warning of the crevasses. On, out of the\n      icy clutch of the silent mountain, they plodded. And\n      then, at last, the timber, and the fires and the hot\n      drinks and the warm blankets and the springy hemlock\n      boughs!\n\n[Illustration: North side of St. Helens in winter, seen from Coldwater\nRidge, overlooking Spirit Lake. Shows the long ridge called \"the\nLizard,\" because of its shape, with \"the Boot\" above it. On the\nnortheast slope is \"Black Butte,\" probably a secondary crater.]\n\n[Illustration: St. Helens, north side, seen from one mile below snow\nline. Note the slight progress made by the forest upon the scant soil of\nthe pumice ridges; also, how greatly the angle of the sides, as viewed\nhere at the foot of the peak, differs from that shown in Dr. Lauman's\nfine picture taken on Coldwater Ridge, five miles north. Both show the\nmountain from the same direction, but the near view gives no true idea\nof its steepness. Black Butte is on the left.]\n\n[Illustration: Glacier scenes, north side of Mount St. Helens, east of\nthe \"Lizard.\"]\n\nEven this was not the most noteworthy adventure of the outing. One\nevening, while the Mazamas gathered about their campfire at Spirit Lake,\na haggard man dragged himself out of the forest, and told of an injured\ncomrade lying helpless on the other side of the peak. The messenger and\ntwo companions--Swedish loggers, all three--had crossed the mountain the\nmorning before. After they gained the summit and began the descent, a\nplunging rock had struck one of the men, breaking his leg. His friends\nhad dragged him down to the first timber, and while one kept watch, the\nother had encircled the mountain, in search of aid from the Mazamas.\n\nImmediately a relief party of seven strong men, led by C. E. Forsyth of\nCastle Rock, Washington, started back over the trailless route by which\nthe messenger had come. All night they scaled ridges, climbed into and\nout of canyons, waded icy streams. Before dawn they reached the wounded\nlaborer. Mr. Riley says:\n\n      It was impossible to carry the man back through the\n      wild country around the peak. Below, the first cabin\n      on the Lewis River lay beyond a moat of forbidding\n      canyons. Above slanted the smooth slopes of St.\n      Helens. Placing the injured man upon a litter of\n      canvas and alpine stocks, they began the ascent of the\n      mountain with their burden. The day dawned and grew\n      old, and still these men crawled upward in frightful,\n      body-breaking struggle. Twelve hours passed, and they\n      had no food and no sleep, save as they fell\n      unconscious downward in the snow, as they did many\n      times, from fatigue and lack of nourishment. At four\n      o'clock, Anderson was again on the summit. Then,\n      without rest, came the descent to the north. Down\n      precipitous cliffs of ice they lowered him, as\n      tenderly as might be; down snow-slopes seared with\n      crevasses, shielding him from the falling rocks; over\n      ridges of ragged lava, until in the deepening darkness\n      of the second night they found themselves again at\n      timber. But in the net-work of canyons they had\n      selected the wrong one, and were lost. Here, at three\n      o'clock, they were found by a second relief party, and\n      guided over a painful five-mile journey home.\n\n[Illustration: Finest of the St. Helens glaciers, north side, with Black\nButte on left. It is proposed to call this \"Forsyth glacier,\" in honor\nof C. E. Forsyth, leader in a memorable rescue.]\n\nIt was day when camp was reached. In an improvised hospital, a young\nsurgeon, aided by a trained nurse, both Mazamas, quickly set the broken\nbones. Then they sent their patient comfortably away to the railroad and\na Portland hospital. Before the wagon started, Anderson, who had uttered\nno groan in his two days of agony, struggled to a sitting posture, and\nsearched the faces of all in the crowd about him.\n\n\"Ay don't want ever to forget how you look,\" he said simply; \"you who\nhave done all this yust for me.\"\n\nIt is fitting that such an event should be commemorated. With the\napproval of Mr. Riley and other Mazamas who were present at the time, I\nwould propose that the north-side glacier already described, the most\nbeautiful of the St. Helens ice-streams, be named \"Forsyth glacier,\" in\nhonor of the leader of this heroic rescue.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, ASAHEL CURTIS\n\nRoad among the Douglas Firs.]\n\n\n\n\n[Illustration: Ships loading lumber at one of Portland's large mills.]\n\n\n\n\nIII.\n\nTHE FORESTS\n\nBy HAROLD DOUGLAS LANGILLE\n\n      As the lowlander cannot be said to have truly seen the\n      element of water at all, so even in his richest parks\n      and avenues he cannot be said to have truly seen\n      trees. For the resources of trees are not developed\n      until they have difficulty to contend with; neither\n      their tenderness of brotherly love and harmony, till\n      they are forced to choose their ways of life where\n      there is contracted room. The various action of trees,\n      rooting themselves in inhospitable rocks, stooping to\n      look into ravines, hiding from the search of glacial\n      winds, reaching forth to the rays of rare sunshine,\n      crowding down together to drink at sweetest streams,\n      climbing hand in hand the difficult slopes, gliding in\n      grave procession over the heavenward ridges--nothing\n      of this can be conceived among the unvexed and\n      unvaried felicities of the lowland forest.--_Ruskin:\n      \"Modern Painters.\"_\n\n\n[Illustration: Outposts of the Forest. Storm-swept White-bark Pines on\nMount Hood.]\n\nSTAND upon the icy summit of any one of the Columbia's snow-peaks, and\nlook north or west or south across the expanse of blue-green mountains\nand valleys reaching to the sea; your eyes will rest upon the greatest\nforest the temperate zone has produced within the knowledge of man. Save\nwhere axe and fire have turned woodland into field or ghostly \"burn,\"\nthe mantle is spread. Along the broad crests of the Cascades, down the\nlong spurs that lead to the valleys, and across the Coast Range, lies a\nwealth of timber equaled in no other region. The outposts of this great\narmy of trees will meet you far below.\n\n[Illustration: Alpine Hemlocks at the timber-line on Mt. Adams. Mt. Hood\nin distance.]\n\nRimming about your peak, braving winds and the snows that drift in the\nlee of old moraines, and struggling to break through the timber-line,\nsix thousand feet above the sea, somber mountain hemlocks (_Tsuga\nmertensiana_) and lighter white-bark pines (_Pinus albicaulis_) form the\nthin vanguard of the forest. They meet the glaciers. They border the\nsnow-fields. They hide beneath their stunted, twisted forms the first\ndeep gashes carved in the mountain slopes by eroding streams. Valiant\nprotectors of less sturdy trees and plants, their whitened weather-sides\nbear witness to a fierce struggle for life on the bleak shoulders of the\npeaks.\n\n[Illustration: Mazama Party resting among the sub-alpine firs in a\nflower-carpeted \"park\" at the foot of Mount St. Helens]\n\nMake your way, as the streamlets do, down to the alpine glades, on the\nhigh plateaus, where anemone, erythronium and calochortus push their\nbuds through lingering snow-crusts. The scattered trees gather in their\nfirst groups. Just within their shelter pause for a moment. Vague\ndistance is narrowed to a diminutive circle. The mystery of vastness\npasses. Sharp indeed is the division between storm-swept barren and\nforest shelter.\n\n[Illustration: A Lowland Ravine. Cedars, Vine Maples, Devil's Club and\nFerns, near Mount St. Helens.]\n\nHere ravines, decked with heather, hold streams from the\nsnowdrifts--streams that hunt the steepest descents, and glory in their\nleaps from rock to rock and from cliff to pool. If it be the spring-time\nof the mountains--late July--the mossy rills will be half concealed\nbeneath fragrant white azaleas that nod in the breezes blowing up with\nthe ascending sun and down with the turn of day. Trailing over the\nrocks, or banked in the shelter of larger trees, creeping juniper\n(_Juniperus communis_), least of our evergreens, stays the drifting\nsands against the drive of winds or the wash of melting snows.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER\n\nThe \"Noble\" Fir.]\n\nAlong the streams and on sunny slopes and benches are the homes of the\npointed firs. Seeking protection from the storm, the spire-like trees\ncluster in tiny groves, among which, like little bays of a lake, the\ngrassy flowered meadows run in and out, sun-lit, and sweet with rivulets\nfrom the snows above. If you do not know these upland \"parks,\" there is\nrare pleasure awaiting you. A hundred mountain blossoms work figures of\nwhite and red and orange and blue in the soft tapestry of green. In\nsuch glades the hush is deep. Only the voice of a waterfall comes up\nfrom the canyon, or the whistle of a marmot, the call of the\nwhite-winged crows and the drone of insects break the stillness.\n\n[Illustration: Dense Hemlock Forest, lower west slope of Mount Hood.]\n\n[Illustration: Mount Hood from Ghost-tree Ridge. Whitened trunks of\ntrees killed by forest fires.]\n\n[Illustration: An Island of Color in the Forest. Rhododendrons and Squaw\nGrass on the west slope of Mount Hood.\n\n    \"The common growth of mother-earth\n          Suffices me,--her tears, her mirth,\n    Her humblest mirth and tears.\"--Wordsworth.]\n\nThe outer rank of hemlock and fir droops its branches to the ground to\nbreak the tempest's attack. Within, silver or lovely fir (_Abies\namabilis_) mingles with hardier forms. Its gray, mottled trunks are\nflecked with the yellow-green of lichen or festooned with wisps\nof moss down to the level of the big snows. And here, a vertical\nmile above the sea, you meet the daring western hemlock (_Tsuga\nheterophylla_), which braves the gale of ocean and mountain alike,\nindifferent to all but fire. It is of gentle birth yet humble spirit. It\naccepts all trees as neighbors. You meet it everywhere as you journey to\nthe sea. But on the uplands only, in a narrow belt like a scarf thrown\nacross the shoulders of the mountain, sub-alpine fir (_Abies\nlasiocarpa_) sends up its dark, attenuated spires, in striking contrast\nwith the rounded crowns of its companions.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, ASAHEL CURTIS\n\nGroup of Red Cedars, five to eight feet in diameter.]\n\n[Illustration: On the road to Government Camp, west of Mount Hood.\nBroadleaf Maple on extreme right; Douglas Firs arching the roadway, and\nWhite Fir on left.]\n\nA little lower, the transition zone offers a noteworthy intermingling of\nspecies. Down from the stormy heights come alpine trees to lock branches\nwith types from warmer levels. Here you see lodgepole pine (_Pinus\nmurrayana_), that wonderful restorer of waste places which sends forth\ncountless tiny seedlings to cover fire-swept areas and lava fields with\nforerunners of a forest. Here, too, you will find western white pine\n(_Pinus monticola_), the fair lady of the genus, whose soft, delicate\nfoliage, finely chiseled trunk, and golden brown cones denote its\ngentleness; and Engelmann spruce (_Picea Engelmannii_) of greener blue\nthan any other, and hung with pendants of soft seed cones, saved from\npilfering rodents by pungent, bristling needles.\n\nHere also are western larch or tamarack (_Larix occidentalis_); or,\nrarely, on our northern peaks, Lyall's larch (_Larix Lyallii_), whose\nnaked branches send out tiny fascicles of soft pale leaves; and Noble\nfir (_Abies nobilis_), stately, magnificent, proud of its supremacy over\nall. And you may come upon a rare cluster of Alaska cedar (_Cham\u00e6cyparis\nnootkatensis_), here at its southern limit, reaching down from the\nCoast range of British Columbia almost to meet the Great sugar pines\n(_Pinus lambertiana_) which come up from the granite heights of the\nCalifornia sierra to play an important role in the southern Oregon\nforests.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, WEISTER\n\nWhere man's a pygmy.\n\nA Noble Fir, 175 feet to first limb.]\n\nAcross the roll of ridge and canyon, you see them all; and when you come\nto know them well, each form, each shade of green, though far away, will\nclaim your recognition. Yonder, in a hollow of the hills, a cluster of\nblue-green heads is raised above the familiar color of the hemlocks.\nCross to it, and stand amidst the crowning glory of Nature's art in\nbuilding trees. About you rise columns of Noble firs, faultless in\nsymmetry, straight as the line of sight, clean as granite shafts. Carry\nthe picture with you; nowhere away from the forests of the Columbia can\nyou look upon such perfect trees.\n\n[Illustration: Firs and Hemlocks, in Clarke County, Washington.]\n\nWestward of the Cascade summits the commercial forest of to-day extends\ndown from an elevation of about 3,500 feet. Intercepted by these\nheights, the moisture-laden clouds are emptied on the crest of the\nrange. Eastward, the effects of decreasing precipitation are shown both\nin species and in density. Tamarack, white fir and pines climb higher on\nthese warmer slopes. Along the base of the mountains, and beyond low\npasses where strong west winds drive saturated clouds out over level\nreaches, western yellow pine (_Pinus ponderosa_) becomes almost the only\ntree. Over miles of level lava flow, along the upper Deschutes, this\nspecies forms a great forest bounded on the east by rolling sage-brush\nplains that stretch southward to the Nevada deserts. Beyond the\nDeschutes drainage, where spurs of the Blue mountains rise to the levels\nof clouds and moisture, the forest again covers the hills, spreading far\nto the east until it disappears again in the broad, treeless valley of\nSnake river. North of the Columbia the story is the same. From the lower\nslopes of Mt. Adams great rolling bunch-grass downs and prairies reach\nfar eastward. Here and there, over these drier stretches, stand single\ntrees or clusters of western juniper (_Juniperus occidentalis_).\n\n[Illustration: Fifty-year-old Hemlock growing on Cedar log. The latter,\nwhich was centuries old before it matured and fell, was still sound\nenough to yield many thousand shingles.]\n\nBut on the west slope of the Cascades, and over the Coast range, the\ngreat forests spread in unbroken array, save where wide valleys have\nbeen cleared by man or hillsides stripped by fire. Here, in the land of\nwarm sea winds and abundant moisture, the famous Douglas fir\n(_Pseudotsuga taxifolia_), Pacific red cedar (_Thuja plicata_) and\ntideland spruce (_Picea sitchensis_) attain their greatest development.\nThese are the monarchs of the matchless Northwestern forests, to which\nthe markets of the world are looking more and more as the lines of\nexhausted supply draw closer.\n\n[Illustration: Sawyers preparing to \"fall\" a large Tideland Spruce.]\n\nDouglas fir recalls by its name one of the heroes of science, David\nDouglas, a Scotch naturalist who explored these forests nearly ninety\nyears ago, and discovered not only this particular giant of the woods,\nbut also the great sugar pine and many other fine trees and plants. As a\npioneer botanist, searching the forest, Douglas presented a surprising\nspectacle to the Indians. \"The Man of Grass\" they called him, when they\ncame to understand that he was not bent on killing the fur-bearing\nanimals for the profit to be had from their pelts.\n\n[Illustration: Sugar Pine, Douglas Fir, and Yellow Pine.]\n\nThe splendid conifer which woodsmen have called after him is one of the\nkings of all treeland. The most abundant species of the Northwest, it is\nalso, commercially, the most important. Sometimes reaching a height of\nmore than 250 feet, it grows in remarkably close stands, and covers vast\nareas with valuable timber that will keep the multiplying mills of\nOregon and Washington sawing for generations. In the dense shade of the\nforests, it raises a straight and stalwart trunk, clear of limb for a\nhundred feet or more. On the older trees, its deeply furrowed bark is\noften a foot thick. Trees of eight feet diameter are at least three\nhundred years old, and rare ones, much larger, have been cut showing an\nage of more than five centuries.\n\nTo these areas of the greatest trees must come all who would know the\nreal spirit of the forest, at once beneficent and ruthless. Here nature\nselects the fittest. The struggle for soil below and light above is\nrelentless. The weakling, crowded and overshadowed, inevitably deepens\nthe forest floor with its fallen trunk, adding to the humus that covers\nthe lavas, and nourishing in its decay the more fortunate rival that has\nrobbed it of life. Here, too, with the architectural splendor of the\ntrees, one feels the truth of Bryant's familiar line:\n\n    The groves were God's first temples.\n\nThe stately evergreens raise their rugged crowns far toward the sky,\narching gothic naves that vault high over the thick undergrowth of ferns\nand vine maples. In such scenes, it is easy to understand the woodsman's\nsolace, of which Herbert Bashford tells in his \"Song of the Forest\nRanger:\"\n\n    I would hear the wild rejoicing\n        Of the wind-blown cedar tree,\n    Hear the sturdy hemlock voicing\n        Ancient epics of the sea.\n    Forest aisles would I be winding,\n        Out beyond the gates of Care;\n    And in dim cathedrals finding\n        Silence at the shrine of Prayer.\n\n           *       *       *       *       *\n\n    Come and learn the joy of living!\n        Come and you will understand\n    How the sun his gold is giving\n        With a great, impartial hand!\n    How the patient pine is climbing,\n        Year by year to gain the sky;\n    How the rill makes sweetest rhyming\n        Where the deepest shadows lie!\n\n[Illustration: Yellow Cedar, with young Silver Fir.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, GIFFORD\n\nOne of the Kings of Treeland--A Douglas Fir.]\n\nFir, spruce and cedar you will see along the slopes of the Cascades in\nvarying density and grandeur, from thickets of slender trees reclaiming\nfire-swept lands to broken ranks of patriarchs whose crowns have swayed\nbefore the storms of centuries. Among the foot hills, the pale gray\n\"grand\" or white firs (_Abies grandis_) rear their domes above the\ncommon plane in quest of light, occasionally attaining a height of 275\nfeet, while the lowly yew (_Taxus brevifolia_), of which the warrior of\nan earlier time fashioned his bow, overhangs the noisy streams. In the\nsame habitat, where the little rivers debouch into the valleys, you may\nsee the broad-leaf maple, Oregon ash, cottonwood, and a score of lesser\ndeciduous trees on which the filtered rays of sunshine play in softer\ntones.\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, JAS. WAGGENER, JR.\n\nFirs and Vine Maples in Washington Forest.]\n\nHere and there in the Willamette valley you meet foothill yellow pine\n(_Pinus ponderosa var. benthamiana_), near relative of the western\nyellow pine. Oregon oak (_Quercus garryana_) occurs sparingly throughout\nthe valleys, or reaches up the western foothills of the Willamette,\nuntil it meets the great unbroken forest of the Coast Range.\n\n[Illustration: Towing a log raft out to sea, bound for the California\nmarkets.]\n\nThe dense lower forests are never gaily decked, so little sunlight\nenters. But in early summer, back among the mountains, you may find\ntangles of half-prostrate rhododendron, from which, far as the eye can\nreach, the rose-pink gorgeous flowers give back the tints of sunshine\nand the iridescent hues of raindrops. Mingled with the flush of \"laurel\"\nblossoms are nodding plumes of creamy squaw grass, the beautiful\nxerophyllum. Often this queenly upland flower covers great areas,\nhiding the desolation wrought by forest fires. Its sheaves of fibrous\nrootstocks furnish the Indian women material for their basket-making;\nhence the most familiar of its many names. The varied green of\nhuckleberry bushes is everywhere. They are the common ground cover.\n\n[Illustration: A \"Burn\" on the slopes of Mount Hood, overgrown with\nSquaw Grass. Such fire-swept areas are quickly covered with mountain\nflowers, of which this beautiful cream-colored plume is one of the most\nfamiliar. Its roots yield a fiber used by the Indians in making\nbaskets.]\n\n[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, GIFFORD\n\nA Noble Fir.]\n\nIn valley woodlands, the dogwood, here a tree of fair proportions,\nlights up the somber forest with round, white eyes that peer out through\nbursting leafbuds, early harbingers of summer. The first blush of color\ncomes with the unfolding of the pink and red racemes of flowering wild\ncurrant. Later, sweet syringa fills the air with the breath of orange\nblossoms; and spirea, the Indian arrowwood, hangs its tassels among the\nforest trees or on the bushy hills. But the presence of deciduous trees\nand shrubs, as well as their beauty, is best known in autumn, when\nmaples brighten the woods with yellow rays; when dogwood and vine maple\npaint the fire-scarred slopes a flaming red, and a host of other\ncolor-bearers stain the cliffs with rich tints of saffron and russet and\nbrown.\n\nComing at last to the rim of the forest, you look out over the sea,\nwhere go lumber-laden ships to all the world. Close by the beach,\ndwarfed and distorted by winds of the ocean, and nourished by its fogs,\nnorth-coast pine (_Pinus contorta_) extends its prostrate forms over the\ncliffs and dunes of the shore, just as your first acquaintance, the\nwhite-bark pine, spreads over the dunes and ridges of the mountain. They\nare brothers of a noble race.\n\n[Illustration: Western White Pine.]\n\nYou have traversed the wonder-forest of the world, and on your journey\nwith the stream you may have come to know twenty-three species of\ncone-bearers, all indigenous to the Columbia country. Of these, one is\nDouglas fir, nowise a true fir but a combination of spruce and hemlock;\nseven are pines, four true firs, two spruces, two hemlocks, two\ntamaracks or larches, two cedars, two junipers, and the yew.\n\n[Illustration: A Clatsop Forest. On extreme right is a Silver Fir,\ncovered with moss; next are two fine Hemlocks, with Tideland Spruce on\nleft.]\n\nSo many large and valuable trees of so many varieties can be found\nnowhere else. A Douglas fir growing within the watershed of the Columbia\nis twelve feet and seven inches in diameter. A single stick 220 feet\nlong and 39 inches in diameter at its base has been cut for a flagpole\nin Clatsop county. A spruce twenty feet in diameter has been measured.\nSuch immense types are rare, yet in a day's tramp through the Columbia\nforests one may see many trees upwards of eight feet in diameter. One\nacre in the Cowlitz river watershed is said to bear twenty-two trees,\neach eight feet or more at its base. Though no exact measurements can be\ncited, it is likely that upon different single acres 400,000 feet, board\nmeasure, of standing timber may be found. And back among the Cascades,\nupon one forty-acre tract, are 9,000,000 feet--enough to build a town.\nManufactured, this body of timber would be worth $135,000, of which\nabout $100,000 would be paid to labor.\n\n[Illustration: A Carpet of Firs; 300,000 feet, cut on one acre in a\nColumbia forest.]\n\nAlong the Columbia you will hear shrill signals of the straining engines\nthat haul these gigantic trees to the rafting grounds. Up and down the\nbroad river ply steamboats trailing huge log-rafts to the mills. Each\nyear the logging railroads push farther back among the mountains, to\nbring forth lumber for Australia, the Orient, South America, Europe and\nAfrica. Many of our own states, which a few years ago boasted\n\"inexhaustible\" forests, now draw from this supply.\n\n[Illustration: Winter in the forest. Mount Hood seen from Government\nCamp road. Twenty feet of snow.]\n\nSince 1905 Washington has been the leading lumber-producing state of the\nUnion, and Oregon has advanced, in one year, from ninth to fourth place.\nThe 1910 production of lumber in these states was 6,182,125,000 feet, or\n15.4 per cent. of the total output of the United States. The same\nstates, it is estimated, have 936,800,000,000 feet of standing\nmerchantable timber, or a third of the country's total.\n\n[Illustration: Rangers' Pony Trail in forest of Douglas and Silver\nFirs.]\n\nThis is the heritage which the centuries of forest life have bequeathed.\nOnly the usufruct of it is rightfully ours. Even as legal owners, we are\nnevertheless but trustees of that which was here before the coming of\nour race, and which should be here in great quantity when our trails\nhave led beyond the range. Our duty is plain. Let us uphold every effort\nto give meaning and power to the civil laws which say: \"Thou shalt not\nburn;\" to the moral laws which say: \"Thou shalt not waste.\" Let us\nunderstand and support that spirit of conservation which demands for\ncoming generations the fullest measure of the riches we enjoy. For\nalthough the region of the Columbia is the home of the greatest trees,\ncenturies must pass ere the seedlings of to-day will stand matured.\n\n[Illustration: Forest Fire on east fork of Hood River. From a photograph\ntaken at Cloud Cap Inn five minutes after the fire started.]\n\nReforestation is indispensable as insurance. Let us see to it that the\nuntillable hills shall ever bear these matchless forests, emerald\nsettings for our snow-peaks. On their future depends, in great degree,\nthe future of the Northwest. As protectors of the streams that nourish\nour valleys, and perennial treasuries of power for our industries, they\nare guarantors of life and well-being to the millions that will soon\npeople the vast Columbia basin.\n\n[Illustration: Reforestation--Three generations of young growth;\nLodgepole Pine in foreground; Lodgepole and Tamarack thicket on ridge at\nright; Tamarack on skyline.]\n\n\n\n\nNOTES\n\n\n      =Transportation Routes, Hotels, Guides, etc.=--The\n      trip from Portland to north side of Mount Hood is made\n      by rail (Oregon-Washington Ry. & Nay. Co. from Union\n      station) or boat (The Dalles, Portland & Astoria Nav.\n      Co. from foot of Alder street) to Hood River, Ore. (66\n      miles), where automobiles are taken for Cloud Cap Inn.\n      Fare, to Hood River, by rail, $1.90; by boat, $1.00.\n      Auto fare, Hood River to the Inn, $5.00. Round trip,\n      Portland to Inn and return, by rail, $12.50; by boat,\n      $12.00. Board and room at Cloud Cap Inn, $5.00 a day,\n      or $30.00 a week. Accommodations may be reserved at\n      Travel Bureau, 69 Fifth street.\n\n      To Government Camp, south side of Mount Hood (56\n      miles), the trip is made by electric cars to Boring,\n      Oregon, and thence by automobile. Cars of the Portland\n      Railway, Light & Power Co., leave First and Alder\n      streets for Boring (fare 40 cents), where they connect\n      with automobiles (fare to Government Camp, $5.00).\n      Board and room at Coalman's Government Camp hotel,\n      $3.00 a day, or $18.00 a week.\n\n      Guides for the ascent of Mt. Hood, as well as for a\n      variety of side trips, may be engaged at Cloud Cap Inn\n      and Government Camp. For climbing parties, the charge\n      is $5.00 per member.\n\n      The trip to Mount Adams is by Spokane, Portland &\n      Seattle (\"North Bank\") Railway from North Bank station\n      or by boat (as above) to White Salmon, Wash.,\n      connecting with automobile or stage for Guler or\n      Glenwood. Fare to White Salmon by rail, $2.25; round\n      trip, $3.25; fare by boat, $1.00. White Salmon to\n      Guler, $3.00. Board and room at Chris. Guler's hotel\n      at Guler P. O., near Trout Lake, $1.50 a day, or $9.00\n      a week. Similar rates to and at Glenwood. At either\n      place, guides and horses may be engaged for the\n      mountain trails (15 miles to the snow-line). Bargain\n      in advance.\n\n      The south side of Mount St. Helens is reached by rail\n      from Union station, Portland, to Yacolt (fare $1.30)\n      or Woodland ($1.00), where conveyances may be had for\n      Peterson's ranch on Lewis River. To the north side,\n      the best route is by rail to Castle Rock (fare,\n      $1.90), and by vehicle thence to Spirit Lake. Regular\n      guides for the mountain are not to be had, but the\n      trails are well marked.\n\n\n      =Automobile Roads.=--Portland has many excellent roads\n      leading out of the city, along the Columbia and the\n      Willamette. One of the most attractive follows the\n      south bank of the Columbia to Rooster Rock and\n      Latourelle Falls (25 miles). As it is on the high\n      bluffs for much of the distance, it commands extended\n      views of the river in each direction, and of the\n      snow-peaks east and north of the city. Return may be\n      made via the Sandy River valley. This road is now\n      being extended eastward from Latourelle Falls to\n      connect with the road which is building westward from\n      Hood River. When completed the highway will be one of\n      the great scenic roads of the world.\n\n      From Portland, several roads through the near-by\n      villages lead to a junction with the highway to\n      Government Camp on the south side of Mount Hood (56\n      miles). The mountain portion of this is the old Barlow\n      Road of the \"immigrant\" days in early Oregon, and is\n      now a toll road. (Toll for vehicles, round trip,\n      $2.50.) Supervisor T. H. Sherrard, of the Oregon\n      National Forest Service, is now building a road from\n      the west boundary of the national forest, at the\n      junction of Zigzag and Sandy rivers, crossing Sandy\n      canyon (see p. 71), following the Clear Fork of the\n      Sandy to the summit of the Cascades, crossing the\n      range by the lowest pass in the state (elevation,\n      3,300 feet), and continuing down Elk Creek and West\n      Fork of Hood River to a junction with the road from\n      Lost Lake into Hood River valley. The completion of\n      this road through the forest reserve will open a\n      return route from Hood River to the Government Camp\n      road, through a mountain district of the greatest\n      interest.\n\n      Southward from Portland, inviting roads along the\n      Willamette lead to Oregon City, Salem, Eugene and\n      Albany. From Portland westward, several good roads are\n      available, leading along the Columbia or through\n      Banks, Buxton and Mist to Astoria and the beach\n      resorts south of that city. North of the Columbia\n      (ferry to Vancouver), a route of great interest leads\n      eastward along the Columbia to Washougal and the\n      canyon of Washougal River (45 miles). From Vancouver\n      northward a popular road follows the Columbia to\n      Woodland and Kalama, and thence along the Cowlitz\n      River to Castle Rock.\n\n      The tour book of the Portland Automobile Club, giving\n      details of these and many other roads, may be had for\n      $1.50 in paper covers, or $2.50 in leather.\n\n\n      =Bibliography.=--The geological story of the Cascade\n      uptilt and the formation of the Columbia gorge is\n      graphically told in _Condon: Oregon Geology_\n      (Portland, J. K. Gill Co., 1910). For the Columbia\n      from its sources to the sea, _Lyman: The Columbia\n      River_ (New York, G. P. Putnam's Sons, 1909) not only\n      gives the best account of the river itself and its\n      great basin but tells the Indian legends and outlines\n      the period of discovery and settlement. _Irving:\n      Astoria_ and _Winthrop: The Canoe and the Saddle_ are\n      classics of the early Northwest. _Balch: Bridge of the\n      Gods_, weaves the Indian myth of a natural bridge into\n      a story of love and war.\n\n      The literature of the mountains described in this\n      volume is mainly to be found in the publications of\n      the mountain clubs, especially _Mazama_ (Portland),\n      _The Sierra Club Bulletin_ (San Francisco) and _The\n      Mountaineer_ (Seattle). Many of their papers have\n      scientific value as well as popular interest. It is to\n      be hoped that the Mazamas will resume the publication\n      of their annual.\n\n      _Russell: Glaciers of N. Am._ p. 67; _Emmons:\n      Volcanoes of the U. S. Pacific Coast_, in _Bulletin of\n      Am. Geog. Soc._, v. 9, p. 31; _Sylvester: Is Mt. Hood\n      Awakening?_ in _Nat'l Geog. Mag._, v. 19, p. 515,\n      describe the glaciers of Mt. Hood. Prof. Reid has\n      published valuable accounts of both Hood and Adams,\n      with especial reference to their glaciers, in\n      _Science_, n. s., v. 15, p. 906; _Bul. Geol. Soc. of\n      Am._, v. 13, p. 536, and _Zeitschrift fur\n      Gletscherkunde_, v. 1, p. 113. An account of the\n      volcanic activities of St. Helens by Lieut. C. P.\n      Elliott, U. S. A., may be found in _U. S. Geog. Mag._,\n      v. 8, pp. 226, and by J. S. Diller in _Science_, v. 9,\n      p. 639.\n\n      The ice caves of the Mt. Adams district are described\n      in _Balch_: _Glacieres, or Freezing Caverns_, which\n      covers similar phenomena in many countries; by L. H.\n      Wells, in _Pacific Monthly_, v. 13, p. 234; by R. W.\n      Raymond, in _Overland Monthly_, v. 3, p. 421; by H. T.\n      Finck in _Nation_, v. 57, p. 342.\n\n      Dryer's account of the first ascent of Mt. St. Helens\n      may be found in _The Oregonian_ of September 3, 1853,\n      and his story of the first ascent of Mt. Hood in _The\n      Oregonian_, August 19, 1854, and _Littell's Living\n      Age_, v. 43, p. 321.\n\n\n      =The Mountain Clubs.=--For the following list of\n      presidents and ascents of the Mazamas, I am indebted\n      to Miss Gertrude Metcalfe, historian of the club:\n\n            PRESIDENTS.                    OFFICIAL ASCENTS.\n\n    1894   Will G. Steel                  Mt. Hood, Oregon.\n    1895   Will G. Steel--L. L. Hawkins   Mt. Adams, Washington.\n    1896   C. H. Sholes                   Mt. Mazama (named for the\n                                             Mazamas, 1896), Mt.\n                                             McLoughlin (Pitt), Crater\n                                             Lake, Oregon.\n    1897   Henry L. Pittock               Mt. Rainier, Washington.\n    1898   Hon. M. C. George              Mt. St. Helens, Washington.\n    1899   Will G. Steel                  Mt. Sahale (named by the\n                                             Mazamas, 1899), Lake\n                                             Chelan, Wash.\n    1900   T. Brook White                 Mt. Jefferson, Oregon.\n    1901   Mark O'Neill                   Mt. Hood, Oregon.\n    1902   Mark O'Neill                   Mt. Adams, Washington.\n    1903   R. L. Glisan                   Three Sisters, Oregon.\n    1904   C. H. Sholes                   Mt. Shasta, California.\n    1905   Judge H. H. Northup            Mt. Rainier, Washington.\n    1906   C. H. Sholes                   Mt. Baker (Northeast side),\n                                             Wash.\n    1907   C. H. Sholes                   Mt. Jefferson, Oregon.\n    1908   C. H. Sholes                   Mt. St. Helens, Washington.\n    1909   M. W. Gorman                   Mt. Baker (Southwest side),\n                                             and Shuksan, Washington.\n    1910   John A. Lee                    Three Sisters, Oregon.\n    1911   H. H. Riddell                  Glacier Peak, Lake Chelan, Wash.\n    1912   Edmund P. Sheldon              Mt. Hood, Oregon.\n\n      The organization and success of the Portland Snow Shoe\n      Club are mainly due to the enthusiastic labors of its\n      president, J. Wesley Ladd. Between 1901 and 1909, Mr.\n      Ladd took a private party of his friends each winter\n      for snow shoeing and other winter sports to Cloud Cap\n      Inn or Government Camp. Three years ago it was\n      determined to form a club and erect a house near Cloud\n      Cap Inn. The club was duly incorporated and a permit\n      obtained from the United States Forest Service. Mr.\n      Ladd, who has been president of the club since its\n      formation, writes me:\n\n      \"Our club house was started in July, 1910, and was\n      erected by Mr. Mark Weygandt, the worthy mountain\n      guide who has conducted so many parties to the top of\n      Mt. Hood. It is built of white fir logs, all selected\n      there in the forest. I have been told in a letter from\n      the Montreal Amateur Athletic Club of Montreal,\n      Canada, that we have the most unique and up-to-date\n      Snow Shoe Club building in the world. The site for the\n      house was selected by Mr. Horace Mecklem and myself,\n      who made a special trip up there. The building was\n      finished in September, 1910. It is forty feet long and\n      twenty four feet wide, with a six-foot fireplace and a\n      large up-to-date cooking range. The organizers of the\n      club are as follows: Harry L. Corbett, Elliott R.\n      Corbett, David T. Honeyman, Walter B. Honeyman, Rodney\n      L. Glisan, Dr. Herbert S. Nichols, Horace Mecklem,\n      Brandt Wickersham, Jordan V. Zan, and myself.\"\n\n      The Portland Ski Club was organized six years ago, and\n      has since made a trip to Government Camp in January or\n      February of each year. The journey is made by vehicle\n      until snow is gained on the foothills, at\n      Rhododendron; the remaining ten miles are covered on\n      skis. The presidents of the club have been: 1907,\n      James A. Ambrose; 1908, George S. Luders; 1909, Howard\n      H. Haskell; 1910, E. D. Jorgensen; 1911, G. R. Knight;\n      1912, John C. Cahalin.\n\n      The Mountaineers, a club organized in Seattle in 1907,\n      made a noteworthy ascent of Mount Adams in 1911.\n\n\n      =Climate.=--The weather conditions in the lower\n      Columbia River region are a standing invitation to\n      outdoor life during a long and delightful summer.\n      Western Oregon and Washington know no extremes of heat\n      or cold at any time of the year. The statistics here\n      given are from tables of the U. S. Weather Bureau,\n      averaged for the period of government record:\n\n      Mean annual rainfall: Portland, 45.1 inches; The\n      Dalles, 19 inches. Portland averages 164 days with .01\n      of an inch precipitation during the year, and The\n      Dalles 74 days; but the long and comparatively dry\n      summer is indicated by the fact that only 27 of these\n      days at Portland and 15 at The Dalles fell in the\n      summer months, June to September inclusive.\n\n      Mean annual temperature varies little between the east\n      and west sides of the Cascades, Portland having a\n      57-year average of 52.8\u00b0 as compared with 52.5\u00b0 at The\n      Dalles. But the range of temperature is greater in the\n      interior. Thus the mean monthly temperature for\n      January, the coldest month, is 38.7\u00b0 at Portland and\n      32.6\u00b0 at The Dalles, while for July, the hottest\n      month, it is 67.3\u00b0 at Portland and 72.6\u00b0 at The\n      Dalles.\n\n      While mountain weather must always be an uncertain\n      quantity, that of the Northwestern snow-peaks is\n      comparatively steady, owing to the dry summer of the\n      lowlands. During July and August, the snow-storms of\n      the Alps are almost unknown here. After the middle of\n      September, however, when the rains have begun, a\n      visitor to the snow-line is liable to encounter\n      weather very like that recorded by a belated tourist\n      at Zermatt:\n\n    First it rained and then it blew,\n    And then it friz and then it snew,\n    And then it fogged and then it thew;\n    And very shortly after then\n    It blew and friz and snew again.\n\n\n      =Erratum.=--On page 72, I have been misled by Dryer's\n      statement into crediting the first ascent of Mount\n      Hood to Captain Samuel K. Barlow, the road builder.\n      The mountain climber was his son, William Barlow, as I\n      am informed by Mr. George H. Himes, of the Oregon\n      Historical Society.\n\n\n\n\nINDEX\n\nFigures in light face type refer to the text, those in heavier type to\nillustrations.\n\n\n    Adams, Mt., Indian legend of its origin, 43;\n      routes to, 66, 67;\n      structure and glaciers, 89-104;\n      lava flows, 93-97;\n      tree casts, 94;\n      caves, 94-96;\n      routes to summit, 96-100;\n      name, 103;\n      height, 104;\n      first ascent, 104;\n      views of, =8=, =15=, =17=, =31=, =63=, =86-107=\n\n    Adams glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, =103=, 104, =106=\n\n    Alps, character and scenery, 60\n\n    Archer Mountain, =29=\n\n    Arrowhead Mountain, =29=, =31=\n\n    Astoria, 51, =16=, =21=\n\n    Automobile roads, 140\n\n    Avalanche glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, 107\n\n\n    Barlow, William, ascent of Mt. Hood, 72, 79, 142\n\n    Barlow road, 70, 142, =78=\n\n    Barrett Spur, 86, =57=, =69=, =75=\n\n    Bibliography, 141\n\n    Blue Mountains, 18, 24\n\n    \"Bridge of the Gods,\" Indian legend, 36-43; =21=, =35=\n\n    Bryce, James, on Northwestern mountains, 60\n\n\n    Cabbage Rock, =47=\n\n    Cape Horn, =19=\n\n    Carbon glacier, 102\n\n    Cascade locks, =39=\n\n    Cascade Mountains, 18, 24, 25, 28, 30, 58-66\n\n    Castle Rock (Columbia River), =28=, =29=, =31=\n\n    Castle Rock, Wash., 106\n\n    Cedars, group of red, =128=\n\n    Celilo Falls (Tumwater), =52=, =54=\n\n    Chelatchie Prairie, =114=\n\n    Chinook wind, Indian legend of its origin, 46-48\n\n    Climate, 142\n\n    Cloud Cap Inn, 15, 67, 78, =57=, =58=, =60=, =66=\n\n    Coast Range, 58\n\n    Coe glacier, Mt. Hood, 78, 80, 83-86, =69=, =72=, =75=\n\n    Columbia River, John Muir's description, 15;\n      dawn on, 15-23;\n      its gorge, 30;\n      Indian legends of its origin, 36-43;\n      its discovery by Capt. Gray, 51;\n      struggle for its ownership, 50-52;\n      its settlement, 52;\n      views of, =7=, =9=, =14-52=, =56=, =109=\n\n    Columbia Slough, =18=, =21=\n\n    \"Coming of the White Man,\" statue, =23=\n\n    Cooper Spur, Mt. Hood, 79, 80, 87, =57-60=\n\n    Crater Rock, 81, 87, =77=, =80=\n\n\n    Dalles, The, 18, 39, 96, 107, =46=, =47=, =49=\n\n    Douglas, David, 131\n\n    Douglas firs, 131, 132, =122=, =130=, =132=, =133=\n\n    Dryer, T. J., 72, 115\n\n\n    Eliot glacier, Mt. Hood, 15, 67, 78, 83-86, =17=, =58-67=, =73=, =92=\n\n\n    Forest, on lava beds, 94, 107-112, =111=\n\n    \"Forests, The,\" chapter by Harold Douglas Langille, 123-139, =122-139=\n\n    Forsyth, C. E., leader in rescue on Mt. St. Helens, 121\n\n\n    Glacieres, freezing caves, 95, 96, =87=\n\n    Glenwood, Wash., 68, 96\n\n    Goldendale, Wash., 68\n\n    Government Camp, 68, 70, 140, 142, =78=, =81=\n\n    \"Grant Castle,\" on the Columbia, =46=\n\n    Gray, Capt. Robert, 51\n\n    Guler, Wash., 68, 96, =89=, =90=\n\n\n    Hellroaring Canyon, 103, =95=, =96=, =97=\n\n    Hood, Mt., dawn on, 15;\n      Indian legend of its origin, 43;\n      John Muir on, 57;\n      routes to, 66-70;\n      first ascent, 72, 75;\n      height, 75, 76;\n      the Mazamas organized on summit, 75;\n      structure and glaciers, 75-89;\n      summit, 80, =6=, =55=, =70=;\n      crater, 81, 82, =77=;\n      lava bed, 89;\n      views of, =6=, =14=, =17=, =21=, =57-85=, =123=, =124=, =138=\n\n    Hood River, =43=, =85=\n\n    Hood River (city), Ore., 67, 140, =43=, =109=\n\n    Hood River Valley, 18, 63, 66, 67, =44=\n\n    Hudson's Bay Company, 51\n\n\n    Ice caves, 95, 96, =87=\n\n    Illumination Rock, 81, =77=, 79\n\n    Indians, legend of the creation, 32;\n      \"Bridge of the Gods,\" 36-43;\n      origin of the Chinook wind, 46-48;\n      value of their place names, 104;\n      Leschi, first Indian to scale a snow-peak, 115; =21=, =23=,\n          =26=, =30=, =44=, =50=, =52=\n\n\n\n    Japan current, 46\n\n    Jefferson, Mt., 104, =83=\n\n\n    Kelley, Hall J., 103\n\n    Klickitat glacier, Mt. Adams, 97-103; =94=, =97-100=\n\n    Klickitat River, 68, =144=\n\n\n    Ladd glacier, Mt. Hood, 78, 80, 83-86, =69=, =75=\n\n    Langille, Harold Douglas, \"The Forests,\" 123-139\n\n    Langille, William A., 80\n\n    Lava beds, tree casts, caves, etc., near Mt. Adams, 89-96, =86=, =87=;\n      near Mt. St. Helens, 107-112, =111=, =112=;\n      struggle of the forest to cover, 108-112, =111=\n\n    Lava glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, =101-104=\n\n    Lewis and Clark, exploration, 51\n\n    Lewis River, 106, 107, =108=\n\n    Lily, the Mt. Hood, =81=\n\n    Lone Rock, =19=, =29=\n\n    Loowit, the witch woman, 41-43\n\n    Lyle, Wash, 68, =9=, =45=\n\n    Lyman glaciers, Mt. Adams, 100, =101=\n\n    Lyman, Prof. W. D., 51, 82, 103\n\n\n    Mazama glacier, Mt. Adams, 97, 100, =94=, =96=\n\n    Mazama Rock, Mt. Hood, =70=\n\n    Mazamas, mountain club, organization, 75;\n      ascents of Mt. St. Helens, 116;\n      an heroic rescue, 120, 121;\n      presidents, 142;\n      ascents, 142; =80=, =82=, =93=, =117=, =124=\n\n    Memaloose Island, =42=\n\n    Mountains, importance in scenery, 59\n\n    \"Mountain that was 'God,'\" =105=\n\n    Mountaineers, The, 142, =103=\n\n    Multnomah Falls, =26=, =27=, =28=\n\n\n    Newton Clark glacier, Mt. Hood, 79, 87, =83=, =84=\n\n    Noble fir, 129, 130, =125=, =130=, =136=\n\n    North Yakima, Wash., 68\n\n\n    Oneonta gorge, =30=, =32=\n\n    Oregon, its geological story, 23-32;\n      its settlement, 50-54\n\n\n    Peterson's, near Mt. St. Helens, 106, 107\n\n    Plummer, Fred G., 115\n\n    Pinnacle glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, =106=, =107=\n\n    Portland, Ore., 57, 140, =7=, =22=, =61=, =113=\n\n    Portland Automobile Club, 70, 140\n\n    Portland Ski Club, 142, =81=\n\n    Portland Snow-shoe Club, 142, =57=, =62=, =66=\n\n    \"Presidents' Range,\" 104\n\n    Puget Sound, 27\n\n\n    Rainier, Mt. or Mt. Tacoma, and Rainier National Park, 83, 102,\n          =51=, =105=, =113=, =117=\n\n    Red Butte, Mt. Adams, =86=\n\n    Reforestation, =139=\n\n    Reid, Prof. Harry Fielding, 87, 103, =79=\n\n    Rhododendrons, 134, =127=\n\n    Ridge of Wonders, Mt. Adams, 103, =96=, =98=, =99=\n\n    Riley, Frank B., 120, 121\n\n    Rocky Mountains, 23\n\n    Rooster Rock, =25=\n\n    Rusk, C. E., 103\n\n    Rusk glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, 102, =98=, =101=\n\n    Ruskin, John, quoted, 59, 60, 123\n\n\n    \"Sacajawea,\" statue, =23=\n\n    Sacramento Valley, origin, 26\n\n    Salmon fishing, =16=, =25=, =33=, =36=, =48=\n\n    Sandy glaciers and canyon, Mt. Hood, 86, 87, =71=, =76=\n\n    Sandy, Ore., =51=\n\n    San Joaquin Valley, origin, 21\n\n    Shaw, Col. B. F., 104\n\n    Siskiyou Mountains, 24\n\n    South Butte, Mt. Adams, 96, =89=\n\n    Speelyei, the coyote god, 32, 47\n\n    Spirit Lake, 106, =4=\n\n    Squaw grass, 134, =135=\n\n    Steel's Cliff, 81, =91=\n\n    St. Helens, Mt., Indian legend of its origin, 43;\n      compared with Mt. Adams, 90, 94;\n      discovery and name, 104;\n      structure, 104-6;\n      height, 106;\n      routes to, 106;\n      recent eruptions, 106, 107;\n      lava beds, 107-112;\n      glaciers, 112-115;\n      routes to summit, 112-116;\n      volcanic phenomena, 115;\n      first ascent, 115;\n      the Mazamas on, 116, 120, 121;\n      an heroic rescue, 120, 121;\n      views of, =4=, =8=, =15=, =17=, =108-121=\n\n    St. Peter's Dome, =20=, =31=\n\n    Sylvester, A. H., 86, 87\n\n\n    Table Mountain, =31=, =35=, =36=\n\n    Toutle River canyons, Mt. St. Helens, 115, =116=\n\n    Tree casts, 94, 107, =111=\n\n    Trout Lake, 15, 62, 66, 76, =89=, =110=\n\n\n    Umatilla, Ore., 62\n\n    Umatilla Indian village, =50=\n\n\n    Vancouver, Capt. George, 72, 104\n\n    Vancouver, Wash., 106, =15=, =24=\n\n    Volcanoes, 27, 28\n\n\n    White River glacier, Mt. Hood, 81, =75=, =77=, =82=\n\n    White Salmon, Wash., 67, 140, =42=, =44=\n\n    White Salmon glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, =107=\n\n    White Salmon River, =41=\n\n    White Salmon Valley, 56, 89\n\n    Willamette River, 21, 57, =9=, =113=\n\n    Wind Mountain, =39=, =40=\n\n    Woodland, Wash., 106, 140\n\n\n    Yacolt, Wash., 106, 140\n\n    Yakima Indians, 48, =21=\n\n    Y. M. C. A., party on Mt. Hood, =76=;\n      on Mt. Adams, =86=\n\n    Yocum, O. C., 70\n\n\n    Zigzag glacier, Mt. Hood, 81, 87, =77=, =79=\n\n    Zigzag River and Canyon, 86, 87, =48=, =78=\n\n[Illustration: Klickitat River Canyon, near Mount Adams.]\n\n\n    ENGRAVINGS BY THE HICKS-CHATTEN CO.\n\n    COLOR PRINTING BY THE KILHAM STATIONERY AND PRINTING CO.\n\n    PORTLAND, OREGON\n\n\n\n\n       *       *       *       *       *\n\n\n\n\nTranscriber's note:\n\nObvious punctuation errors were corrected.\n\nPage 10, \"Moorhouse\" changed to \"Moorehouse\" (Lee Moorehouse 26)\n\nPage 51, \"monoply\" changed to \"monopoly\" (a foreign monopoly that)\n\nPage 54, \"descendents\" changed to \"descendants\" (pride of their\ndescendants)\n\nPage 60, illustration with caption beginning \"Cone of Mount Hood\",\n\"scoriae\" changed to \"scori\u00e6\" (ridge of volcanic scori\u00e6)\n\nPage 78, \"pretentions\" changed to \"pretensions\" (with very modest\npretensions)\n\nPage 81, \"scoriae\" changed to \"scori\u00e6\" (rocks and the scori\u00e6 which)\n\nPage 83, \"tripple\" changed to \"triple\" (and even triple border)\n\nPage 97, double word \"to\" removed from test. Original read (stairway\ntilted to to forty)\n\nPage 141, italics added to \"U. S. Geog. Mag.\" and \"Science\" to follow\nrest of usage (in _U. S. Geog. Mag._, v. 8, pp. 226, and by J. S. Diller\nin _Science_)\n\nPage 142, Erratum, \"Captin\" changed to \"Captain\" (to Captain Samuel K.\nBarlow)\n\nPage 143, Indians, Leschi, only the first illustration is of Leschi, the\nrest of the bolded page numbers are of other people.\n\nPage 143, Zigzag River and Canyon, bold text added to \"48\" as it is an\nillustration (Canyon, 86, 87, =48=, =78=)","title":"The Guardians of the Columbia: Mount Hood, Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens","tradition":"myth-cosmogony","translated_text":null,"word_count":28165}