{"collection":"myth-cosmogony","full_text_available":true,"graph_url":"https://unchartedknowledge.5gfusion.net/v2/api/page/gutenberg_57258/graph","html_url":"https://unchartedknowledge.5gfusion.net/v2/page/gutenberg_57258","id":"gutenberg_57258","license":"Public Domain (US)","rights_basis":"gutenberg_metadata_copyright_false","source":"gutenberg","source_url":"https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/57258","summary":null,"tags":["Category: Mythology, Legends & Folklore","Category: Nature/Gardening/Animals","Category: Travel Writing","Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (Hawaii)"],"text":"Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed\nProofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net\n\n\n\n\n\n\n _Copyright 1959 by the_\n HAWAII NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION\n\n UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR\n NATIONAL PARK SERVICE\n\n [Illustration: NATIONAL PARK SERVICE]\n\n PUBLISHED IN COOPERATION\n WITH THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE\n\n Covers: Silversword in bloom\n\n\n\n\n HAWAII NATIONAL PARK\n _A Guide for the\n Haleakala Section\n Island of Maui, Hawaii_\n\n\n by\n George C. Ruhle\n _illustrated by Donald M. Black_\n\n [Illustration: HAWAII \u00b7 NATURAL \u00b7 HISTORY \u00b7 ASSOCIATION]\n\n PUBLICATION OF THE\n HAWAII NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION\n JUNE, 1959\n\n [Illustration: On the Sliding Sands Trail]\n\n\n\n\n _Preface_\n\n\nMost of us yearn to travel, and the preliminary to travel is to choose a\nplace that others, people or books, say is interesting, then find out\nmore about it.\n\nThis guide is to help you find out more about Haleakala. It is neither a\nreference book nor a treatise. It sums up what many have studied and\nobserved. It skims over the myths that the mountain itself created in\nthe imagination of old Hawaiians. It reflects also the labor and thought\nof the compiler. Its aim is to satisfy your interest while you are here\non the brim, or at some other point. For some of you it may be the start\nof a deeper curiosity, to be satisfied by further reading elsewhere.\n\nThink of this booklet as a chatty companion along the way, and a ready\nreminder after you have left, of your pleasant experience at Haleakala.\n\n\n\n\nThe system of 29 National Parks contains areas of superlative scenic and\nscientific grandeur essentially in the primitive state. The National\nPark Service of the Department of the Interior administers these, as\nwell as 152 other areas of outstanding national significance. The law of\nthe land enjoins us to use them in such manner that they may be passed\nunimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations.\n\nThe story of HAWAII NATIONAL PARK is the story of active volcanism\nsingularly marked by eruptions of very fluent lava. The park is in two\nsections; that on the island of Maui, discussed in this guide, includes\nthe great eroded crater of Haleakala Volcano; that on the island of\nHawaii embraces the summits of Mauna Loa and Kilauea Volcanoes.\n\n\n\n\n HALEAKALA\n\n\n [Illustration: The silversword is the pride and distinction of\n Haleakala.]\n\nHaleakala _is a great volcano, 33 miles long and 10,025 feet high.\nDuring a long period of inactivity, stream erosion cut two deep valleys,\nKeanae and Kaupo, into its sides. These joined near the summit. When\nvolcanic activity once again resumed, flows of aa and blankets of\ncinders were spread on the valley floors. A multicolored cover,\nemphasized by symmetrical cones, formed the new floor of the depression,\nnow loosely called Haleakala Crater._\n\n_The well chosen name, Hale-a-ka-la, means House of the Sun. Old\nHawaiians associated Maui, a trickster demi-God, with the mountain. He\nwas a legendary figure throughout Polynesia long before a few of its\ninhabitants discovered and settled in Hawaii, bringing their gods with\nthem._\n\n_How Maui brought down or ensnared the sun has several versions. Maui's\nmother, Hina, had trouble drying bark cloth, kapa, because the day was\ntoo short, its warmth insufficient. The sun just sped too fast across\nthe sky. So Maui fashioned a strong net to snare it in its course. A\nslight variant, possibly less used, appeals more strongly. In early\ndawn, one can watch strong streamers of light from the rising sun break\nthrough the clouds and stalk across the crater. With these spidery legs\nthe sun progresses through the heavens. As one by one they were placed\nover Koolau Gap, Maui seized them and bound them with strong thongs to\nan ohia tree. Thus captured, the sun pleaded for release. This Maui\ngranted on promise of a slower gait, for which Hina as well as the rest\nof us can be eternally thankful._\n\n\n\n\n _Table of Contents_\n\n\n Page\n Preface iii\n Haleakala iv\n PART I\n Your Vacation in the Haleakala Section 1\n Access 1\n What to do and see 1\n Hosmer Grove Campground and Picnic Area 2\n The Trail System 4\n Park Cabins 4\n Suggested Hiking Trips 5\n An Outfit for Hiking in Haleakala Crater 7\n Horseback Crater Trips 7\n Numbered Points of Interest on the Map 8\n PART II\n Haleakala Hawaiiana 16\n Maui Legends 16\n The Legend of Kihapiilani 18\n The Tradition of Kaoao 21\n Archeological Study 22\n The Historical Background 24\n Important Dates 36\n Geology 42\n The Origin of the Scenic Features 42\n The Geological Interpretation 46\n Haleakala Plants 49\n Plant Notes 55\n The Ferns 55\n The Native Grasses 56\n The Sedges--Fig. 1 56, 71\n Rush 57\n Painiu 57\n Mauu-laili 57\n Orchids--Fig. 2 58, 71\n Alaalawainui 58\n Sandalwood--Fig. 3 58, 72\n Sheep Sorrel 58\n Hawaiian Buttercup 59\n Hoawa 59\n Hawaiian Hawthorn 59\n Hawaiian Raspberry--Fig. 5 59, 73\n Mamane--Fig. 4 60, 72\n Nohoanu--Fig. 6, 7 60, 74\n Hawaiian Holly 60\n Olomea 61\n Aalii--Fig. 8 61, 75\n Begonia 53, 61\n Tarweed 61\n Ohio Lehua--Fig. 9 62, 75\n Evening Primrose 62\n Apeape 54, 62\n Olapa--Fig. 10 62, 76\n Ohelo--Fig. 11 62, 76\n Pukiawe--Fig. 12 63, 77\n Kolea--Fig. 13 63, 77\n Selfheal 63\n Puaainaka 63\n Groundcherry 63\n Plantain 64\n Kukaenene--Fig. 15 64, 79\n Pilo--Fig. 14 64, 78\n Manono 64\n Catchfly--Fig. 16 65, 79\n Oha 65\n Naupaka 65\n Maui Wormwood--Fig. 17 65, 80\n Kookoolau 66\n Kupaoa--Fig. 18, 19 66, 81\n Pamakani 67\n Hairy Cat's Ear 67\n Wood Groundsel 68\n Tetramalopium--Fig. 20 53, 68, 82\n Silversword Cover, iv, 47, 68\n Summary Lists 70\n The Birds and Mammals 83\n The Insect Life 85\n Hawaiian Words and Place Names 89\n Hui O Ahinahina 93\n Additional Help 93\n Mileages Inside back cover\n Map Center Pages\n\n\n\n\n YOUR VACATION\n\n\nAnticipate a restful, invigorating interlude. Islanders consider\nvacation on the cool mountain an inexpensive, pleasant variant from a\nmainland trip.\n\nSilversword Inn at an elevation of 6,800 feet is popular with luncheon\nguests and with those staying overnight to view sunset or sunrise from\nthe summit of the great mountain. Attractive, friendly, comfortable, it\nis the loftiest hostelry in the islands. There is no formal atmosphere:\nwarm, casual clothing is worn; it is strictly \"come in as you are.\"\n\nHiking and riding in the vicinity of the inn are favorite pastimes.\nAdjacent groves of trees of the Temperate Zone impart an aspect novel to\nthe islands. A visit is highlighted by trips into the crater and to the\nsummit, less than thirty minutes distant by car. The cup runneth over\nfor photographers and nature enthusiasts. You can enjoy cool, restful\nnights between daytime drives to the many points of interest on Maui.\nFor further details, reservations, and rates, consult the Manager,\nSilversword Inn, R.R. 53, Waiakoa, Maui, Hawaii, or Mr. William S.\nEllis, Jr., 900 Nuuanu Ave., Honolulu 17, Hawaii.\n\n\n ACCESS\n\nThe Haleakala road climbs through plantations and ranchland from Kahului\nHarbor and Kahului Airport to the park entrance at an elevation of 6,740\nfeet. The distance by the shortest route is thirty miles. The highway\ncontinues eleven miles further to the Park Observatory on the western\nrim of Haleakala Crater and to the 10,025-foot summit. No bus service\nexists, but taxis and U-drive cars are hired at the airport and in the\ntowns of Kahului and Wailuku. The sole access into the crater is over\ngood trails for travel on foot or by horse.\n\n\n WHAT TO DO AND SEE\n\nThe start of a drive to the park is made by one of three paved routes.\nThe shortest is Pukalani Road. The other two turn inland at Paia or\nHaiku and traverse more interesting country. The three routes converge\nat Pukalani Junction ten miles up the mountain. PUKALANI means a hole in\nheaven, which picturesquely describes the fact that the sun breaks\nthrough at this place despite a general overcast elsewhere.\n\nAs the road rises up and ever up, it unfolds distant views of fields of\nsugar cane and pineapple, of West Maui Range, 6,000 feet high, and of\nMolokai, Lanai, Kahoolawe, and Molokini Islands beyond channels of blue\nsea. 100 miles southward, the tops of the snowy volcanoes on the Island\nof Hawaii float on billowy clouds. 10,000 feet below, the aquamarine\nPacific fringes Maui with white surf.\n\nThree viewpoints along the road overlook the great crater: Leleiwi, at\nthe 9,000-foot switchback; Kalahaku, two miles below the summit: and the\nPark Observatory, near the top. The roadway extends along the crest one\nmile southwestward to a scenic point beyond the park boundary and a\ncommunication station of the Civil Aeronautics Administration.\n\nJust above the park entrance, Silversword Inn, a National Park\nconcession, offers meals, rooms, souvenirs, horseback riding and guided\nhorseback trips into the crater. Across from the inn, a paved spur road\nleads a half mile to Hosmer Grove Campground and Picnic Area.\n\nHaleakala Crater is a favorite with those who like the back-country; its\ninspiring scenery and restful solitude are great reward for time and\neffort. The National Park Service maintains three cabins on the crater\nfloor and 30 miles of well-marked trails for hikers and horseback\nparties.\n\n\n HOSMER GROVE CAMPGROUND AND PICNIC AREA\n\nA quarter mile above the park entrance, opposite the driveway to the\ninn, a paved lane, one-half mile long, leads to the Hosmer Grove\nCampground and Picnic Area. It has a shelter for rainy weather that\ncontains two tables and two charcoal burners. Four additional tables\nwith adjacent charcoal burners are in an open site below the road.\nRunning water, parking space for eight cars, and sites for pitching\ntents are provided. Charcoal may be purchased at the inn. A self-guiding\nnature trail leads through the grove.\n\n [Illustration: HOSMER GROVE\n CAMPGROUND AND PICNIC AREA]\n\nThe grove was named for the first Territorial forester, Dr. Ralph S.\nHosmer, who experimented with planting temperate trees at high altitudes\non Haleakala and Mauna Kea. Trees, planted here in 1910, include the\ndeodar, _Cedrus deodara_ from the Himalayas; the tsugi, _Cryptomeria\njaponica_ from Japan; eucalypti from Australia; and from the mainland a\ncypress, _Cupressus arizonica_; a juniper, _Juniperus virginiana_;\nDouglas fir, _Pseudotsuga taxifolia_; incense cedar, _Libocedrus\ndecurrens_; two spruces, _Picea canadensis_, _P. excelsa_; and seven\npines: lodgepole, _Pinus contorta_, Coulter or big-cone, _P. coulteri_,\nJeffrey, _P. jeffreyi_, longleaf, _P. palustris_, ponderosa or western\nyellow, _P. ponderosa_, white, _P. strobus_, and Scotch, _P.\nsylvestris_. Many of these have survived and have borne fruits. The huge\nkeeled cones of Coulter pines are cherished as ornaments in some homes.\n\nNative plants associated with the area are the shrubs: Haleakala\nsandalwood, mamane, pukiawe, aalii, mountain pilo, ohelo, silver\ngeranium, kupaoa; two or three ferns; two sedges; and three native\ngrasses.\n\nTwo thirds of the distance to the grove, the crater trail from the inn\nstarts up the mountain to the left. This is a connecting link, 1\u00be miles\nlong, to the Halemauu Trail which it joins a half mile below its start\non the highway. _See Numbered Points of Interest, No. 9._\n\n\n THE TRAIL SYSTEM\n\nThe Sliding Sands Trail, the popular route into the crater, starts from\nthe parking area at the Observatory. It is constructed along the south\nside of the crater to Kapalaoa Cabin six miles away. Connecting trails\ngo to Paliku Cabin, four miles farther. The Halemauu Trail has two upper\nends, at the 8,000-foot elevation on the highway and on the Hosmer Grove\nCampground Spur near Silversword Inn. Halemauu Trail goes down Leleiwi\nPali, the west wall, to Holua Cabin, four miles from the road or six\nmiles from the lodge. The trail continues easterly from Holua for six\nmiles along the north side of the crater floor to Paliku. Branch trails\nare built to points of interest. The Kaupo Trail through Kaupo Gap\nleaves Paliku Cabin and the crater to make a rapid descent of the\nsouthern, sun-drenched slope.\n\n\n PARK CABINS\n\nEach of the three visitor cabins within the crater, Kapalaoa, Paliku,\nand Holua, is equipped with running water, a wood-burning cookstove,\nfirewood, kerosene lamps, cooking and eating utensils, twelve bunks,\nmattresses, and blankets. Use of these cabins by hikers on a priority\nreservation basis is granted free of charge by the Park. In\nconsideration for their use _cabins should be left clean and in order_\nby each party. The following arrangements are necessary: write the Park,\ngiving an outline of your proposed trip, number in the party, exact\ncalendar dates, and names of specific cabins which you wish to use each\nnight. The address is: \"Hawaii National Park, Haleakala Section, P. O.\nBox 456, Kahului, Maui, Hawaii.\" Cabin reservations can also be made by\ntelephoning the Park. When you arrive in the Park, stop at the\nAdministration Building for your permit, cabin key, and orientation.\n\n\n SUGGESTED HIKING TRIPS\n\n_For safety reasons, all visitors are required to obtain permits from\nthe rangers for all trips into the crater, other than those with\nSilversword Inn guides._\n\n\n_Short Walks for the Day Visitor_: (1) Along Halemauu Trail from the\nhighway to the Crater Rim, three-quarters of a mile. Views down Keanae\nValley, across Koolau Gap to Hanakauhi, and of Halemauu Trail. (2) A\nshort distance down the Sliding Sands Trail. _Be careful not to travel\ntoo far down._ The return climb is exhausting at this high altitude. (3)\nTo the top of White Hill. The trail winds among ancient Hawaiian\nstonewalled encampment sites.\n\n_One-day hikes into crater_: (1) Down Halemauu Trail to Holua Cabin and\nreturn to the highway, a scenic trip of eight miles that can be taken by\nany reasonably good hiker. It is not recommended when clouds blanket the\npali and Koolau Gap. Allow a half-day for hiking. (2) Down Sliding Sands\nTrail to the crater floor, across Ka Moa o Pele Trail to Halemauu Trail\nat Pele's Paint Pot or Bottomless Pit, and return to the highway via\nHolua and the Halemauu Trail. This colorful, spectacular twelve-mile\ntrip is recommended only for good hikers. Allow eight hours of hiking\ntime. _At your risk_, rangers can often arrange to move your car for you\nto the place at which the Halemauu Trail emerges on the highway.\n\n_Overnight crater hikes_: Hike down Sliding Sands Trail; spend the night\nat either Paliku, Kapalaoa, or Holua Cabin; return via Halemauu Trail.\nThe choice overnight hike to Paliku, a 20-mile round-trip, is\nrecommended for good hikers only. The trip with an overnight stop at\nKapalaoa is 14 miles long. The shortest route from the foot of Sliding\nSands Trail to Holua via Ka Moa o Pele leaves only the four-mile climb\nvia Halemauu Trail for the second day. _The Sliding Sands Trail is not\nrecommended for return from a crater trip._ The long climb to an\nelevation of 10,000 feet is too exhausting for most people.\n\n_Two and three day crater hikes_: Entry via the Sliding Sands and return\nvia Halemauu Trail is recommended. A three-night trip stopping at\nKapalaoa, Paliku, and Holua allows leisurely enjoyment of the crater.\nGood health and fair walking ability are all that are required for these\nlonger trips.\n\n [Illustration: 1. Koolau Gap; 2. Waikau; 3. Hanakauhi Peak; 4.\n Paliku; 5. Puu Maile; 6. Kaupo Gap; 7. Haleakala Peak; 8. Puu Kumu;\n 9. Puu Naue; 10. Ka Moa o Pele; 11. Puu o Maui; 12. Kamohoalii; 13.\n Ka Lua o ka Oo; 14. Puu o Pele.]\n\nNo guide service is available or necessary for parties hiking or riding\ntheir own stock into the crater. However, a permit is required before\nyou start your trip within the crater. For details, consult the section\nlabelled \"Park Cabins.\"\n\n\n AN OUTFIT FOR HIKING IN HALEAKALA CRATER\n\nClothing should consist of hiking shoes, slacks, shirt, jacket, hat, and\npreferably a light raincoat. Basketball shoes or keds are preferred by\nsome. Because of the chill climate at elevations of seven to ten\nthousand feet, warm clothing is advisable. In climbing, temperature goes\ndown as you go up. The top of Haleakala averages thirty degrees cooler\nthan sea level. You should bring your food for the trip, a knapsack,\nsunburn lotion, soap, hand towel, dish towel, matches, and simple first\naid. As cooking facilities in the cabins are adequate, food need not be\nprecooked.\n\n\n HORSEBACK CRATER TRIPS\n\nSilversword Inn provides horseback trips on good stock with a competent\nguide. Food is provided, cooking is done by the guide, and sleeping\naccommodations are arranged by the management. A guest need only concern\nhimself about personal effects and clothing suitable for riding in a\ncool climate. For rates and trip reservations, telephone or write to the\nManager, Silversword Inn, R.R. 53, Waiakoa, Maui, Hawaii, or to Mr.\nWilliam S. Ellis, Jr., 900 Nuuanu Ave., Honolulu 17, Hawaii.\n\n_If you have your own horses_ make the same arrangements as hikers for\nentry into the crater and for cabin use. You may travel on any of the\ncrater trails. Fenced horse pastures are adjacent to each of the cabins.\n\n\n\n\n NUMBERED POINTS OF INTEREST ON THE MAP\n\n\n_Basic data for this section was compiled by the park staff and\nsubmitted by Eugene J. Barton, Assistant Superintendent in charge of\nHaleakala from 1949-1955. The map is in the center of the booklet._\n\n\n1. _Park entrance_ (elev. 6,740') _and inn_: The park entrance, marked\nby a rustic sign, is on the slope of Puu Nianiau, an ancient cinder\ncone. _Nianiau_ is Hawaiian for swordfern. One quarter mile above the\nentrance turn right to the Silversword Inn for meals, lunches, overnight\naccommodations, color pictures, slides, and souvenirs of the park. The\ninn arranges guided trips through Haleakala Crater.\n\n\n2. _Ralph S. Hosmer Grove_: Across from the lodge, a paved spur road\nleads to the Hosmer Grove Campground and Picnic Area.\n\n\n3. _Headquarters of the Haleakala Section of Hawaii National Park_: Stop\nat the Administration Building beside the road for information, permits,\ncabin keys needed on crater trips, and for assistance in case of trouble\nor accident. The park maintenance area is located behind the station. As\nyou drive toward the summit, note the small native trees and shrubs\ngrowing along the road. This elfin forest was all but destroyed by goats\nand cattle; it has recovered under National Park protection. The book,\n\"Plants of Hawaii National Park,\" and the section on plants in this\nguide may help you identify the different species. These and other\npublications of the Hawaii Natural History Association may be purchased\nat the inn or at Park Headquarters.\n\n\n4. _Leleiwi Overlook_; _Kalahaku Overlook_: At the switchback near the\n9,000-foot contour, a parking space has been constructed that is\nlabelled LELEIWI OVERLOOK. This is above Holua and the Halemauu Trail,\nso that parties can be watched as they go down Leleiwi Pali. On clear\ndays, the whole length of Keanae Valley can be seen through Koolau Gap.\nThe lateral view extends from Hana Airport across the big isthmus to\nKihei on Maalaea Bay. On afternoons, clouds roll into the gap, making\nthis a good place to see the Brocken Specter. One's shadowy image\nappears within a circular rainbow, projected against the bank of cloud.\nKALAHAKU OVERLOOK (elev. 9,325') is a remarkable view point on the\ncrater rim that is reached by a short spur off the main park road. It is\nthe site of the Old Rest House, in which travellers on foot or horseback\nstayed overnight before the road was built. Silversword plants may be\nseen just below the main parking area. KALAHAKU is the name of the\nrugged pali forming the crater wall at this point. The name means\n\"meeting place of the headmen or chiefs.\"\n\n\n5. _The Observatory_ commands a spectacular view of the crater near the\nsummit of Haleakala. It was erected in 1937 by the National Park Service\nfor your comfort and convenience. The observatory is the main objective\nof most visitors to Haleakala. Besides being a welcome shelter during\ninclement weather, it has a large relief map and interpretive\norientation devices. Modern rest rooms are located to the rear of the\nbuilding.\n\n\n6. _White Hill, Pakaoao_ (elev. 9,865'); _start of Sliding Sands Trail_:\nThe rocky hill, just above the observatory, is capped with andesite, a\nvolcanic rock lighter in color and different in composition from the\ncommon basaltic lava of Hawaii. The southwest slope, up which the trail\nleads, is covered with Hawaiian sleeping shelters consisting of oval\nstone-walled enclosures. These gave protection against the wind, fog,\nand cold that is common here. They may have been used long ago by\nwayfarers or by sentries and groups of warriors stationed at this\ncommanding site. They may also have served as ambush for professional\nrobbers, _aihue_, who waylaid travellers in lonely places. Refer to the\ntopic, \"The Tradition of Kaoao\" in \"Haleakala Hawaiiana\" for more of the\nstory.\n\n\n7. _Red Hill, Pakaoao, Summit of Haleakala_ (original English name,\nPendulum Peak; elev. 10,025'): To drive to the summit take the paved\nroad, turning sharply left below the observatory parking area. Red Hill\nis the highest of the three prominent recent cinder cones. Early morning\nis a good time to view extended panoramas and distant seascapes, before\nstreaks of clouds form shelves along the sides of the mountain. But\nafternoon is better for viewing the crater, as its features appear in\nexcellent light and color at that time. A pointer table by the road\nindicates the names of islands and peaks seen. An Army radar and radio\ncommunication station was located on Red Hill during World War II.\n\n [Illustration: Halemauu Trail on Leleiwi Pali.]\n\n\n8. _Skyline Drive_: An improved driveway to the Civil Aeronautics\nRepeater Station leaves the park at the pass between Red Hill and\nKolekole. Views stretch down the vast, precipitous southwest outer slope\nof Haleakala to the Lualailua Hills and a desert seashore, ten thousand\nfeet below. Morning will most likely yield the cloud-free views. The\nAeronautics Station is open to visitors. A parking area is just outside\nthe gate to the station. Kolekole is the site of television relays and a\nsatellite tracking station. It is a mile from the Observatory to the\nsummit of Kolekole. It is 1.7 miles from the Observatory at the FAA\nStation. Magnetic Peak is across the road from Red Hill. A huge\ncuriously shaped bomb on its skyline has a silhouette that looks much\nlike a sitting duck.\n\n [Illustration: Volcanic bomb on Magnetic Peak.]\n\n\n9. _The Halemauu Trail_ starts from a curve on the park road at the\n8,000 foot elevation. It leads down a gentle slope for eight-tenths of a\nmile to the crater rim. An alternate start is on the driveway into\nHosmer Grove Campground, near Silversword Inn. Built by the National\nPark Service in 1937, the trail drops with a gentle grade down the\n1500-foot Leleiwi Pali to the crater floor. It suggests thrilling trails\nin Glacier National Park and other rugged mainland areas as it swings\nand clings to the vertical cliffs. Hike to the crater rim for\nspectacular views of Windward Maui and Keanae Valley in fair weather; if\nclouds are rolling up Koolau Gap in the evening, you may possibly be\ngreeted by the Specter of the Brocken. Silver geraniums, Hinahina, small\nspherical shrubs peculiar to Haleakala, grow along the upper trail and\nroad. HALEMAUU, grass house, is said to be derived from one formerly\nlocated near the head of the trail.\n\n\n10. _Holua Cabin_ rests in a grassy plot at the foot of the towering,\n3,000-foot Leleiwi Pali. Introduced grasses grow in the meadow near it.\nThe pale \"moss\" on the rough lava flow is _Stereocaulon_, actually a\nlichen, that strange combination of an alga and a fungus growing\ntogether to appear as one plant. This pioneer on barren new lavas is\nsometimes called Hawaiian Snow. The comparatively recent flow in front\nof the cabin contains lava tubes or caves. These are rough and\ndangerous, and should not be entered except by especially equipped\nparties. Holua Cave, above the cabin, was used as a night shelter before\nthe cabin was built.\n\n\n11. _Silversword Loop_, a quarter-mile long, deviates from Halemauu\nTrail past several clumps of silversword. Hollows and slopes of the old,\nweathered, red lava flow in this area have favorable conditions for\ntheir growth. Near the east end of the loop, the main trail passes among\nmany piles of stones, ahus, markers, and platforms built by the\nHawaiians. This place, known as KEAHUOKAHOLO, appears to have had\nspecial or sacred significance. State law, as well as Hawaiian customs\nand ethics, strictly forbids disturbing or damaging any of these ancient\nstructures.\n\n\n12. _Kihapiilani Road_: From a black, cinder-covered flat, an old\nHawaiian pathway crosses the rough shoulder of the small cone on Halalii\nto smoother surface between Mamane Hill and Puu Kumu. It is six to eight\nfeet wide and is paved with flat stones. The start, difficult to locate,\nis to the right of a small, horned spattercone seen from the trail as\nyou look toward Hanakauhi Peak. A chief, Kihapiilani, built the trail\nover Mauna Hina along the North Rim to a pond, Wai Ale, probably the\npresent Wai Anapanapa on the exterior slope. Refer to \"The Legend of\nKihapiilani\" in \"Haleakala Hawaiiana\" for the story.\n\n\n13. _Bottomless Pit_ is a yawning black well, ten feet in diameter,\nrimmed with colored lava spatter a few feet high. _Use caution\napproaching its edge._ Baseless legend claims that it sinks to sea\nlevel. Although no bottom can be seen, debris chokes the opening sixty\nor seventy feet below. It is a vent, through which superheated gases\nwere emitted in an eruption of long ago. The rim around the throat\nindicates that a little lava sputtered out with the gas. During the\nflank eruptions of Mauna Loa and Kilauea similar vents exhale columns of\nblue, incandescent gases at intervals. Old Hawaiians at Kaupo say that\nthe pit was used for disposition of umbilical cords of babies. Various\nreasons are assigned to the custom, such as to make the child strong, or\nto prevent its becoming a thief.\n\n\n14. _Ka Moa o Pele Trail_ branches from the foot of the Sliding Sands\nTrail to join the Halemauu Trail across the crater. It is a scenic route\nbetween silverswords on Ka Moa o Pele, a red cinder cone. Flowering\nplants can usually be seen from June to September. Pa Puaa o Pele,\nPele's Pig Pen, is the rim of a spatter cone, now buried, in the low\npass between Halalii and Ka Moa o Pele. Hikers from Sliding Sands to\nHolua should go around the right or east side of Halalii to see the\nBottomless Pit and Pele's Paint Pot, a colorful pass just a short\ndistance beyond.\n\n\n15. _Bubble Cave_ is a large, collapsed bubble with heavy walls. It was\nblown by gases in ancient molten lava. Only a small segment collapsed in\nthe center of the roof, which serves as entrance and smoke-hole;\nold-timers were wont to camp in this natural shelter. It was the rest\nstop now supplanted by Kapalaoa Cabin.\n\n\n16. _Wailuku Cabin_, outside the park, was built by the State Board of\nAgriculture and Forestry for the use of hunters. Arrangements for its\nuse must be made at the Maui Office of the Board in Kahului. Trails to\nit are not of park standards and are not recommended to sightseers.\n\n\n17. _Old and New Volcanics_: Dikes that protrude as slabs of\nlight-colored rock from slopes of the ridge toward Hanakauhi mark part\nof the ancient divide between Koolau and Kaupo Valleys, the great\nerosional canyons worn into the mountain during an age of quiescence.\nThis divide is deeply buried inside the crater under the cinders and\nflows of renewed eruptions that form the present floor. Adjacent Mauna\nHina and Namana o ke Akua, green with shrubs, grass, and scrub mamane,\nare cinder cones from ancient eruptions. Puu Nole, a garish, black\nyoungster in the community, has only silverswords on its barren slopes.\nTowards Paliku the trail is flanked by some of the most recent lava\nflows, only a few hundred years old. Their source vents are visible on\nthe slopes of Hanakauhi and the north wall of the crater.\n\n\n18. _Lauulu Trail_ is plainly visible as it zigzags up the north wall.\nAlthough not maintained at present, it is passable and allows rugged\nenthusiasts to climb the rim for views of the crater. On the outer\nslopes, moist grassy plots, often fog-bound, blend into jungle that\ndrops to the Hana Coast, 8,000 feet below. Kalapawili Ridge extends from\nthe summit of Hanakauhi Mountain eastward around the head of Kipahulu\nValley to the tiny lake, Wai Anapanapa. It is readily traversable for\nthe good hiker.\n\n\n19. _Paliku_ is very different from the desert wastes in the other parts\nof the crater. Lush grass and ferns, overhanging forest trees, and a\nverdant cover on a towering pali result from abundant clouds pushed by\nthe trade winds over the east wall. AKALA, the giant Hawaiian raspberry,\nripens abundantly back of the cabins in July. It is excellent for pie,\nconserves, or dessert. Native Hawaiian trees include: MAMANE, far larger\nthan the scrubby growth in the crater; OHIA, with gray-green leaves and\nred lehua flowers; KOLEA, with thick magnolia-like leaves four inches\nlong; OLAPA, with leaves that tremble in the slightest breeze, like\nthose of quaking aspen. The conifer above the Ranger Cabin is a\ncryptomeria, a Japanese evergreen planted early in this century.\n\n\n20. _Kipahulu Valley_, beyond the eastern rim, is a remote, jungle\nwilderness walled in by loftiest cliffs; a no man's land, it has barely\nbeen explored, let alone touched or altered by civilization. Look from\nthe cabin at Paliku across the pasture to the lowest notch in the sheer\neastern pali. For a view into Kipahulu, a good climber can follow an old\ngoat trail, steep and tortuous, that leads up the left side of the draw\nto this notch. A chorus of bird songs rises from the primeval forest in\nKipahulu. With them you may hear complacent squeals of wild pigs that\nhave been undisturbed for generations.\n\n\n21. _Kaupo Trail_ is a good trail that winds down Kaupo Gap, across\nlittle meadows, through groves of small AALII trees, and under spreading\nKOA trees to the park boundary which is below the 4,000-foot contour.\nWild goats may be heard on the pali or on the lavas in the gap. Kaupo\nRanch extends below the park. From the redwood water tanks, a jeep trail\ndescends through pastures to ranch headquarters. It is 8 miles from\nPaliku to ranch headquarters, which can be hiked in a half day. Kaupo\nVillage on the belt road around Haleakala is 1\u00bd miles further. The route\nis interesting, but arrangements must be made in advance to be met by\ncar either at the ranch or the village. It is fifty miles from Central\nMaui by the shortest road. Although Kaupo Trail crosses private\nproperty, advance permission is not required to use it; but, in due\nconsideration, please use care to close gates and do not molest or\ndamage any property. _The reverse trip from Kaupo Village into the\ncrater is not recommended_ because of the long, arduous climb up the\nunsheltered, south-facing mountain slope.\n\n [Illustration: Paliku Cabin.]\n\n\n\n\n HALEAKALA HAWAIIANA\n\n\n MAUI LEGENDS\n\nThus starts the story of Maui, beloved demi-god of all Polynesia in the\nnever-never land of long ago. Not wanted as a babe, for he was scrawny\nand deformed, his mother, Hina, wrapped him in a lock of her hair and\ncast him into the sea. But jellyfish rescued and mothered him, and the\ngod, Kanaloa, gave him protection. For all that, the growing youngster\nyearned for his own, so that one day he crept back and stealthily\nmingled with his four brothers. He was accepted in the family circle\nonly after much pleading by the eldest boy.\n\nMaui-of-a-thousand-tricks is the favorite nickname given this\ndelightful, oft thoroughly human scamp. Throughout his escapades he was\never faithful to man, so frequently fickle and unworthy. Maui made the\nbirds visible, for at first they could only be heard as they sang and\nfluttered through the air. Maui invented spears and barbed fishhooks.\nHis greatest catch, so runs his fish story, was with a huge hook of\npowerful magic made from the lifeless jawbone of his grandmother, who\nwas remarkable, for only one side of her body was alive. He tricked his\nbrothers into the task of manning the paddles while he, equipped with\nhis potent tackle, fished up the Hawaiian Islands from the depths of the\nocean. Maui first had strictly admonished the brothers not to watch him,\nbut only to look straight ahead. When curiosity overcame the belabored\npaddlers, they disobeyed. The line parted as they looked back, leaving\nthe land only partly emerged, a chain of islands instead of a continuous\nwhole.\n\nThe story of the island of Maui thus begins and--so runs one\nversion--Maui lived in plain fashion on simple fare in a humble grass\nhut at Kauiki, the famous foothill of Haleakala in the district of Hana.\nHawaii at the time was covered by darkness and fog, so Maui pushed the\nheavens to their present position far above the highest mountains,\nHaleakala, Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa, and Hualalai. Before this feat, man had\nto stoop and crawl, pressed closely to the ground, for the skies were\nlow, and were held up by the plants whose leaves became flattened by\ntheir burden, even as they remain today. Yet even now, when Maui is\nasleep, the heavens rush back as somber clouds and darken the country\nwith storms. From Kauiki, Maui made his important journey to the crater\nto capture the sun and force it to move slowly through the heavens that\ntapa may be dried and fruits can mature. Also there are more daylight\nhours for fishing and ceremonial preparations in the _heiau_. This\nlegend, the most pertinent to this guide, is sketched in the\nIntroduction to Part I.\n\nMost Hawaiian legends place Maui's home in the black lava bank of the\nWailuku River above Hilo, while his mother chose the dark cave behind\nRainbow Falls. His exploits, so often capricious, more frequently\nreflect a benefactor's concern for mankind. Maui disclosed the art of\nmaking fire by rubbing sticks together. Previously, man was dependent on\nPele's volcanic furnace or on embers carefully nurtured to kindle his\nfires. Maui wrung the secret from Alae, the reluctant mud-hen, who alone\nknew it and guarded it with greatest care. Exasperated by repeated\nfrustration and deception, Maui, once he had gained her secret, punished\nthe stubborn bird by rubbing her head with a stick so roughly that all\nthe feathers came off and raw flesh appeared, which is how it remains\ntoday.\n\nMaui in his noblest moment gave his all for man, whose frailty brought\nabout the downfall of both. For Maui, too, was doomed to die some day,\nsince his father, like Achilles' nurse Cynosura, had neglected a part of\nthe proper ceremony to make him immortal. Maui abhorred the fact that\nman must die, for he regarded death as degrading and an insult to the\ndignity of man. The secret of life was hidden within the heart of\nHina-nui-kepo, the dread ogress of death. To win immortality one had to\nsteal through her jaws, which had sharp basalt teeth, enter into the\ninky blackness of the stomach, and tear out the heart. This could only\nbe done while Hina slept. First, Maui turned man into a little bird, and\nadvised him to keep very quiet, lest he awaken the fearful goddess from\nher slumber. Then he went stealthily about his fearsome task, speedily\nand alone. All went well until the return journey; alas! poor, weak man\ncould not restrain himself, but burst into uncontrollable laughter as he\nwatched the plight of the demigod within the ugly, gaping fish-mouth of\nHina. The great jaws closed with a snap that crushed Maui and left Death\never after the victor. Greater love hath no man!\n\n\nIt would seem that the crater so high in the sky, so remote in location,\nso difficult in access, so desolate in appearance, so dread in origin,\nshould have been shunned by the early native. Quite the contrary, many\nmarks of frequent and varied use may be discovered in the crater. A\ntrail through it connected the busy sites on West Maui and the isthmus\nwith Kaupo and Hana near the eastern shore. This direct route avoided\nthe wet heavily forested northern slopes of the mountain as well as the\nprecipitous, arid, rough terrain on the southwest. It was easily\ntraversed, in spite of the climb involved.\n\n\n THE LEGEND OF KIHAPIILANI\n\n\"Kihapiilani was one time King of Maui. It was he who caused the road\nfrom Kawaipapa to Kahalaoaka to be paved with smooth rocks, even to the\nforests of Oopuloa in Koolau, Maui. He also was the one who built the\nroad of shells on Molokai.\" \"And,\" the great Hawaiian antiquarian,\nAbraham Fornander, might have continued, \"he caused the trail across the\ncrater of Haleakala to be paved with water-worn stones, to the foot of\nHanakauhi of the mists.\" Kihapiilani was the great public works king of\nthe islands.\n\nBecause of Kihapiilani a most remarkable event of ancient Hawaiian\nhistory came to pass, the expedition of numberless canoes.\n\nThree and a half centuries ago, Piilani, a king of Maui, had four\nchildren: two sons, Lonoapii who was the eldest child, and Kihapiilani,\nthe youngest; and two daughters, Piikea, who became the wife of King Umi\nof Hawaii, and Kihawahine, now regarded as the lizard god. When the old\nking was dying, he adjured his successor, Lonoapii, to take his place as\nfather and to be kind to the younger brother. But alas, the young prince\nwas neglected and treated with contempt. One day at Waihee, two\ncalabashes of small fish, _nehu_, still wet with sea water, were brought\nto Lonoapii. These he gave to everybody except the younger brother, who,\ntherefore, reached out and helped himself. This angered the king so that\nhe hurled the calabash and its contents into Kihapiilani's face. Without\na word, Kihapiilani arose and travelled to Kula. After some time, he\ntold his story to the _kahuna_ Apuna and asked what he should do. Apuna\nreplied that he should seek advice at Keanae from a _kahuna_ named\nKahoko. Kahoko sent him to Hana, and from there to Hawaii, following a\ncertain dark object as guide. Kihapiilani and his retinue travelled the\nwindward side of Kohala on foot, swimming through shark-infested waters\naround the bold headlands. Everywhere people gathered to him, for he was\nhandsome and brave. When he reached Laupahoehoe, in Hamakua, he found\nhis sister, Piikea, living with her husband, Umi. Umi had already become\na great chief for he had overthrown his tyrant brother, Hakau, but his\ngreatest deeds were yet to follow. These include the union of all of the\nisland of Hawaii under his rule.\n\nWhen Kihapiilani explained that he was seeking someone to avenge him,\nfor Lonoapii had thrown salt water into his face, Piikea goaded Umi to\nhelp him, for he had crossed the seas. So Umi sent messengers with\norders that _koa_ be felled and many canoes made ready for the crossing\nto Maui. These were so numerous that when the first canoe reached\nKauiki, the last were still in Waipio. The sea was covered with canoes.\nUmi ordered the canoes to be fastened bow to stern by twos, and in this\nway the men walked across instead of sailing, the canoes being a\ndependable road. This is known in legend as the sailing of numberless\ncanoes.\n\nAt Kauiki fortress the leader, Hoolae, fought bravely from the top of\nthe hill in daytime, but at night he set a huge wooden image of a man\nwith a bristling war club at the head of the ladder up which the\nattackers had to climb. The trick frightened away all approaching\nenemies, while the defenders slept in peace. One night, however,\nPiimaiwaa took his war club and approached the giant. He hurled insults\nat him from a safe distance. As his taunts drew no response or movement,\nPiimaiwaa twirled his war club, threatened with gestures, and gradually\ncrept closer to discover the clever ruse that had fooled the forces of\nUmi. With that obstacle gone, Umi's men surprised and slew the enemy.\nHoolae was captured and killed on the eastern side of Haleakala. War\nspread over all of Maui, until Lonapii was slain at Waihee and\nKihapiilani became king of the island. It could well be that during this\ncampaign Kihapiilani became acquainted with our crater, across which he\nlater constructed the paved trail, another monument to his reign.\n\nSome believe that the trails paved with waterworn rocks were built by\n_menehune_, the dwarf race supposed to work secretively at night.\nActually, the commoners performed the labor, being pressed into service\nfor the task. They formed an endless chain from the coast, so that rocks\ncould be passed from hand to hand until carefully fitted into place on\nthe walkway. The spaces between the larger stones were often filled with\nsand or gravel.\n\n\nThe early Mauians had many names for different parts of the crater. Some\nplaces had two names; sometimes one name served more than one place.\nThus there is duplication of use of the name Haleakala, for besides\nbeing the name of the whole volcano, it is also applied to the peak on\nthe rim west of Kaupo Gap. Or could _haole_ confusion have given rise to\nuse for the whole mountain a name that once applied only to a prominence\non the rim?\n\n [Illustration: White Hill, Pokaoao.]\n\n\n THE TRADITION OF KAOAO\n\nWhite Hill, Pakaoao, (see Numbered Points of Interest, topic 6) is of\npale gray andesitic basalt that splits into slabs. On the leeward side\nare many enclosures built of stone, 3 or 4 feet high, which are believed\nto have been erected as shelters or bivouacs by the men of Kaoao, a\nquarrelsome chieftain who sought refuge on the mountain after he was\ndriven out of Kaupo, early in the 18th century. Dr. Kenneth Emory of\nBishop Museum has an unpublished manuscript, in Hawaiian, of a legend\ngiven to him on June 22, 1922 by Joseph V. Marciel, an old native of\nMaui. Copy of the translation by Maunupau of Honolulu was graciously\ngiven to me so that the story could be told here.\n\n [Illustration: The South Wall: Haleakala Peak on left, Puu Kumu on\n right.]\n\nThe _heiau_ of Keahuamanono on Haleakala Peak was built by Kaoao,\nyounger brother of Kekaulike, great king of Maui. The brothers were not\nfriends. Kaoao lived on the mountain, but Kekaulike and his men lived by\nfishing and raising crops in Nuu, the district west of Kaupo Valley. One\nday Kaoao sent his men north to find food from Keanae to Hana. After\nthey had departed, Kaoao journeyed to his brother's house, which he\nfound deserted since Kekaulike had gone fishing. Kaoao proceeded to pull\nand destroy all of his brother's crops, and then returned up the\nmountain.\n\nKekaulike was very angry when he discovered all his crops had been\ndestroyed. As he knew whom to blame, he ordered his men to wrap _'ala_,\nsling stones, in ti leaves as if they were potatoes. Armed with these\nthey marched up the mountain, and found Kaoao with his bodyguard only,\nfor his men had not returned from the foray for food. The defenders were\nsoon overpowered, but Kaoao jumped over a cliff in an attempt to escape.\nKekaulike found him dying, and quickly put an end to him. When Kaoao's\nmen returned from Koolau they found that their leader had been dead many\ndays.\n\n\n ARCHEOLOGICAL STUDY\n\nDr. Kenneth Emory made an extensive archeological survey of Haleakala\nCrater in 1920. He records 58 stone terraces and platforms, 9 groups of\nopen stone shelters, hundreds of _ahu_, and the paved trail of\nKihapiilani.[1] (See Numbered Points of Interest, topic 18.)\n\nThe huge structure built by Kaoao, as mentioned earlier in this chapter,\nstands in the saddle above Kapalaoa, due south of Puu Maile. This is\nwest of the highest point on Haleakala Peak. It measures 57 x 36 feet\nand has an eastern supporting wall 18 feet high. This has the appearance\nof a _heiau_, possibly used for the worship of Pele. As such, it\nresembles Oalalauo which was located on the rim of Kilauea Iki in the\nKilauea Section of Hawaii National Park. Oalalauo, seen in ruins in\n1823, was described by the missionary William Ellis, who, probably the\nfirst European to go to Kilauea Crater, has given us the first record of\na visit.[2]\n\nSince the crater is a place of restricted access, it was used for burial\nsites, which is quite in keeping with practice elsewhere in the Hawaiian\nIslands. A curious local custom was the deposit of umbilical cords of\nKaupo babies in certain localities, principally in the Bottomless Pit\n(Numbered Points of Interest, topic 13), and in Na Piko Haua, a pit 15\nfeet in diameter and 10 feet deep that is located northeast of Halemauu\nTrail, less than a half mile east of Holua Cabin. The cord was wrapped\nin a small piece of tapa, or, in recent days, in a scrap of gay calico\nand tied with string. Sometimes it was placed in a bottle or other\ncontainer. This was then carefully stowed in crevices or cast into\nBottomless Pit. Reasons given for the practice vary. It was believed\nthat if the cord were destroyed or eaten by rats the child would become\na thief. Some claimed that proper disposition made a child strong. Some\naver that the custom persists to this day, showing, like belief in the\nexistence of Pele, the durability of ancient superstitions.\n\nOn the north wall above Paliku is a rock, Pohaku Palaha or Broad Rock,\nwhich is called the \"hub of East Maui.\" Boundary lines radiating from it\nmark off the pie-shaped land divisions, _ahupuaa_, that extend in all\ndirections to the shores of the ocean.\n\nIt is quite natural that legends, traditions, and superstitions should\nbe woven in and about such a great natural feature as this crater. All\nprominent places had original Hawaiian names, although some were changed\nwith time and some are now lost. Ka Lua o ka Oo was the residence of\nKamohoalii, the brother of Pele and the king of vapor. Between Halalii\nand Ka Moa o Pele is the rim of a spatter cone, Pa Puaa o Pele, which is\n30 feet square with an opening on the northwest side. It protrudes only\n10 feet above later volcanic deposits. This was a place of highest\n_kapu_ (taboo). Merely to disturb a single grain of sand within it will\nbring fog and rain, possibly death. Emory discloses the local belief\nthat a stone structure, 9 x 5 feet, located 45 feet east of the rim,\nholds the bones of two men and a woman who had violated this _kapu_ and\nwho had perished in the ensuing fog. His investigation failed to reveal\nany burial within the structure. In vaguer vein, it was held that a\nsimilar fate would be meted to those disturbing a silversword. Were the\nNational Park committed to a policy of nature protection through fear,\nthis belief would be helpful indeed.\n\n\n\n\n THE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND\n\n\nCaptain James Cook discovered Maui on November 26, 1778, as he sailed\nsouthwestward from Alaska on his last voyage. His record for the day\ngives us the first description of Haleakala: \"An elevated hill appeared\nin the country, whose summit rose above the clouds. The land, from this\nhill, fell in a gradual slope, terminating in a steep, rocky coast; the\nsea breaking against it in a most dreadful surf.... On the 30th ...\nanother island was seen to the windward, called, by the natives,\n_Owhyhee_. That along which we had been for some days, was called\n_Mowee_.\"[3]\n\nAfter sailing along the eastern and southern coasts of the island of\nHawaii in its two armed ships, _Resolution_ and _Discovery_, the\nexpedition landed at Kealakekua Bay on January 17, 1779. Captain Cook\nwas worshipped as the incarnation of the god Lono, but he overstayed his\nwelcome, ill-will and violence taking its place. A climax was reached\nover the theft of a ship's cutter, which was broken up merely for its\nnails and ironware. On February 14, Cook tried to seize the aged king\nKalaniopuu to hold as a hostage until reparation was made. In the\nscuffle that ensued, the Great Mariner was killed by an _alii_, who\nthrust quite through his back an iron dagger, a chief article of trade\nof the Expedition. Upon departure toward the northwest, the survivors\nreached Maalaea Bay on February 24, on which date the journal remarks\nabout Maui: \"This side of the island forms the same distant view as the\nnorth-east; ... the hilly parts, connected by a low flat isthmus,\nhaving, at the first view, the appearance of two separate islands.\"\n\nThe ill-fated French explorer, Count Jean Francois de Galaup de la\nPerouse, arrived with his two frigates on May 28, 1786, in the bay\nsouthwest of Haleakala that today bears his name. He recorded: \"At every\ninstant we had just cause to regret the country we had left behind us;\nand to add to our mortification, we did not find an anchoring place well\nsheltered till we came to a dismal coast where torrents of lava had\nformerly flowed like the cascades which pour forth their water in other\nparts of the island.\"[4] This reference is to the latest flows of\nHaleakala. See page 37.\n\nOn Vancouver's first exploring expedition to the islands, Edward Bell\nmade the following entry for March 6, 1792 in the log of the _Chatham_:\n\"... the south shore ... had by no means a very inviting appearance,--it\nwas remarkably high and seemed extremely barren;--from the top of the\nMountains to the waters edge are deep Gullies or ruts form'd I suppose\nby the water running down,--and there appeared but little wood on this\nside (except towards the Top) and as little Cultivation, here and there\nwe saw a few Huts and a small Village, several of which appeared half\nway up.\"\n\nOn Vancouver's next visit, Thomas Manby recorded in the journal for\nMarch 10, 1793: \"... south side of the island which presented a prospect\nnot very grateful to the eye as the land was high and rugged with\nfrequent mounds of Cinders caused by volcanic eruptions.\" On March 14,\n1793, the botanist A. Menzies, with some of Vancouver's crew, climbed a\nvalley back of Lahaina and made botanical observations.\n\nWhen the first missionaries from New England came to Hawaii, Elisha\nLoomis, a printer, remarked in his journal for March 30, 1820: \"As we\ndouble the northern extremity of Owhyhee the lofty heights of Maui are\non our right.\" The spelling, Maui, is evidently a correction made later,\nas the original spelling appears elsewhere in early missionary usage.\nAlready by 1822, the members of this expedition had adopted the five\nvowels and seven consonants of the Romance languages used today in\nreducing the Hawaiian language to writing and printing. Thus, the\nconfusion of earlier English writers was dispelled.\n\nLorrin Andrews and Jonathan F. Green, ordained missionaries, and Dr.\nGerrit P. Judd, physician, were with the third mission from New England.\nThey arrived in Honolulu on March 30, 1828. They visited Rev. William\nRichards in Lahaina and toured Maui the following summer. Extracts\nconcerning the trip of Dr. and Mrs. Judd were published in 1880 with an\nintroductory note by Albert Francis Judd, a son. In the preface, dated\nMay 1861, Mrs. Judd states that the sketches were \"culled and abridged\nfrom a mass of papers\" without pretense of writing a history. Under the\ndate of July 1828, the narrative relates a Fourth of July excursion and\nincludes: \"The mountain on the east division is Haleakala (house of the\nsun), and is the largest crater in the world, but is not in action.\"[5]\nUnfortunately, the original notes have been lost, and the reference to\nthe mountain by name must have been inserted at a much later date in\npreparing the manuscript for publication. It would be hard to believe\nthat Mrs. Judd could possibly have started the fiction, \"largest crater\non earth,\" at the early date of 1828. The Judds did not climb the\nmountain during their visit, and Hawaiians were not in a position to\nmake comparisons among craters of the world.\n\nOn August 21, 1828, Richards, Andrews, and Green made the first recorded\nascent of Haleakala. They could not have known a name for the mountain,\nfor they refer to it only as \"the highest land on Maui\" and as \"an\nextinct volcano.\" Not until six years later was their account published.\nThe following quotations relate to their trip:[6] \"Mr. Richards had for\nyears been particularly desirous of making the tour of this island for\nthe purpose of examining and improving the schools, etc., but having\nbeen alone, it has hitherto been impracticable for him to leave his\nfamily for a sufficient length of time. During the present season this\nobject has been accomplished.\" Mr. Richards had arrived in Hawaii in\n1823, and had taken over the mission in Lahaina shortly afterwards at\nthe request of Queen Keopuolani. He had not mentioned the big mountain\nin previous correspondence and reports.\n\n\"Here (at 'Kaalimaile,' perhaps the Haliimaile of today) we tarried\novernight, intending, in the morning, to ascend the mountain, near which\nwe were, and sleep on the highest land on Maui. We were told by the\nnatives, that the way was long, but the ascent very easy. We suppose no\nEnglish travellers had ever ascended this mountain.\n\n\"21. We rose early, and prepared for our ascent. Having procured a\nguide, we set out; taking only a scanty supply of provisions. Half way\nup the mountain, we found plenty of good water, and, at a convenient\nfountain, we filled our calabash for tea. By the sides of our path, we\nfound plenty of ohelos, (a juicy berry, very palatable,) and,\noccasionally, a cluster of strawberries. On the lower part of the\nmountain, there is considerable timber; but as we proceeded, it became\nscarce; and, as we approached the summit, almost the only thing, of the\nvegetable kind, which we saw, was a plant which grew to the height of\nsix or eight feet, and produced a most beautiful flower. It seems to be\npeculiar to this mountain, as our guide and servants made ornaments of\nit for their hats, to demonstrate to those below, that they had been to\nthe top of the mountain.\n\n\"It was nearly 5 o'clock, when we reached the summit; but we felt\nourselves richly repaid for the toil of the day, by the grandeur and\nbeauty of the scene, which at once opened up to our view. The day was\nvery fine. The clouds, which hung over the mountains on West Maui, and\nwhich were scattered promiscuously, between us and the sea, were far\nbelow us; so that we saw the _upper side_ of them, while the reflection\nof the sun painting their verge with varied tints, made them appear like\nenchantment. We gazed on them with admiration, and longed for the pencil\nof Raphael, to give perpetuity to a prospect, which awakened in our\nbosoms unutterable emotions. On the other side, we beheld the seat of\nPele's dreadful reign. We stood on the edge of a tremendous crater, down\nwhich, a single misstep would have precipitated us, 1,000 or 1,500 feet.\nThis was once filled with liquid fire, and in it, we counted sixteen\nextinguished craters. To complete the grandeur of the scene, Mouna Kea,\nand Mouna Roa lifted their lofty summits, and convinced us, that, though\nfar above the _clouds_, we were far below the feet of the traveller who\nascends the mountains of Hawaii. By this time, the sun was nearly sunk\nin the Pacific; and we looked around for a shelter during the night. Our\nguide and other attendants we had left far behind; and we reluctantly\nbegan our descent, keeping along on the edge of the crater.\n\n\"After descending about a mile, we met the poor fellows, who were\nhobbling along on the sharp lava, as fast as their feet would suffer\nthem. They were glad to stop for the night, though they complained of\nthe _cold_. We kindled a fire, and preparations were made for tea and\nlodgings. The former we obtained with little trouble. We boiled part of\na chicken, roasted a few potatoes, and, gathering round the fire, we\nmade a comfortable meal; but the place of lodging, we obtained with some\ndifficulty. At length, we spread our mats and blankets in a small yard,\nenclosed, probably, by natives, when passing from one side of the island\nto the other. We were within twenty-feet of the precipice, and the wind\nwhistled across the valley, forcibly reminding us of a November evening\nin New England. The thermometer had fallen from 77 to 43* (*The next\nmorning, the thermometer stood at 40.), and we shivered with the cold.\nThe night was long and comfortless.\n\n\"22. Early in the morning, we arose, and reascended the mountain, to its\nsummit, and contemplated the beauties of the rising sun, and gazed a\nwhile longer, on the scenery before us. There seemed to be but two\nplaces, where the lava had found a passage to the sea, and through these\nchannels, it must have rushed with tremendous velocity. Not having an\ninstrument, we were unable to ascertain the height of the mountain. We\npresume it would not fall short of 10,000 feet.* (*This, I believe, is\nthe height at which it has generally been estimated.) The circumference\nof the great crater, we judged to be no less than fifteen miles. We were\nanxious to remain longer, that we might descend into the crater, examine\nthe appearance of things below, and ascend other eminences; but as we\nwere nearly out of provisions, and our work but just commenced, we\nfinished our chicken and tea, and began our descent.\n\n\"Nothing remarkable occurred, on our way down....\"\n\nThe United States Exploring Expedition under the command of Lieutenant\nCharles Wilkes, USN, visited Hawaii in 1840 and 1841. On February 15,\n1841, Wilkes dispatched Messrs. Pickering, Drayton, and Breckenridge\nfrom Hilo to explore Maui. They were joined at Lahaina by Rev. Andrews,\nhis son, four students of the seminary, and six _kanakas_ to carry their\nfood. At Wailuku they were joined by Mr. Bailey (see page 40). They\nspent the night at an elevation of 1,692 feet on the sugar plantation of\nLane and Minor, two Bostonians. The story of their ascent, which is the\nsecond recorded, is told by quoting from their report:[7]\n\n\"The next day, the party set out at an early hour, in hopes of reaching\nthe summit, but it began to rain violently, in consequence of which they\ntook shelter in a large cave, at an altitude of eight thousand and\nninety feet. Here many interesting plants were found, among which were\ntwo species of Pelargonium, one with dark crimson, the other with lilac\nflowers; the Argyroziphium began to disappear as they ascended, and its\nplace was taken up by the silky species, which is only found at high\naltitudes. From the cave to the summit they found shrubby plants,\nconsisting of Epacris, Vaccinium, Edwardsia, Compositae, and various\nrubiaceous plants.\n\n\"On their arrival at the edge of the crater, on the summit, the clouds\nwere driving with great velocity through it, and completely concealed\nits extent. The height, as ascertained by the barometer, was ten\nthousand two hundred feet. The driving of the sleet before the strong\ngale soon affected the missionaries and native students, the latter of\nwhom for the first time, felt the effects of cold. The limit-line of\nwoods was ascertained to be at six thousand five hundred feet.\n\n\"Some sandalwood bushes were noticed about five hundred feet above the\ncave. Above the cave the ground assumed a more stony appearance, and the\nrock became now and then more visible, which had not before been the\ncase. Where the rock was exposed it was found to be lava more or less\nvesicular, but no regular stream was observed. The surface of the lava\nappeared to be more thickly covered with earth than that of Mauna Kea,\nand consequently a greater proportion of soil existed, as well as a\nthick coating of gravel. Near the summit, bullock-tracks were observed,\nand likewise those of wild dogs, but no other animals were seen except a\nfew goats.\n\n\"The crater of Haleakala, if so it may be called, is a deep gorge, open\nat the north and east, forming a kind of elbow: the bottom of it, as\nascertained by the barometer, was two thousand seven hundred and\neighty-three feet below the summit peak, and two thousand and\nninety-three feet below the wall. Although its sides are steep, yet a\ndescent is practicable at almost any part of it. The inside of the\ncrater was entirely bare of vegetation, and from its bottom arose some\nlarge hills of scoria and sand: some of the latter are of an ochre-red\ncolour at the summit, with small craters in the centre. All bore the\nappearance of volcanic action, but the natives have no tradition of an\neruption. It was said, however, that in former times the dread goddess\nPele had her habitation here, but was driven out by the sea, and then\ntook up her abode on Hawaii, where she has ever since remained. Can this\nlegend refer to a time when the volcanoes of Maui were in activity?\n\n\"The gravel that occurred on the top was composed of small angular\npieces of cellular lava, resembling comminuted mineral coal. The rock\nwas of the same character as that seen below, containing irregular\ncavities rather than vesicles. Sometimes grains of chrysolite and\nhorn-blende were disseminated. In some spots the rock was observed to be\ncompact, and had the appearance of argillite or slate: this variety\noccurred here chiefly in blocks, but was also seen in situ. It affords\nthe whetstones of the natives, and marks were seen which they had left\nin procuring them.\n\n\"Of the origin of the name Mauna Haleakala, or the House of the Sun, I\ncould not obtain any information. Some of the residents thought it might\nbe derived from the sun rising from over it to the people of West Maui,\nwhich it does at some seasons of the year.\n\n\"Having passed the night at the cave, Mr. Baily (_sic_) and young\nAndrews preferred returning to the coast, rather than longer to endure\nthe cold and stormy weather on the mountain.\n\n\"Our gentlemen made excursions to the crater, and descended into it. The\nbreak to the north appears to have been occasioned by the violence of\nvolcanic action within. There does not appear any true lava stream on\nthe north, but there is a cleft or valley which has a steep descent:\nhere the soil was found to be of a spongy nature, and many interesting\nplants were found, among the most remarkable of which was the\narborescent Geranium.\n\n\"The floor of the crater, in the north branch, is extremely rough and\nabout two miles wide at the apex, which extends to the sea. In the\nravines there is much compact argillaceous rock, similar to what had\nbeen observed on Mauna Kea, retaining, like it, pools of water. The\nrock, in general, was much less absorbent than on the mountains of\nHawaii.\n\n\"Mr. Drayton made an accurate drawing or plan of the crater, the\ndistances on which are estimated, but the many cross bearings serve to\nmake its relative proportions correct. Perhaps the best idea that can be\ngiven of the size of this cavity, is by the time requisite to make a\ndescent into it being one hour, although the depth is only two thousand\nfeet. The distance from the middle to either opening was upwards of five\nmiles; that to the eastward was filled with a line of hills of scoria,\nsome of them five or six hundred feet high; under them was lying a lava\nstream, that, to appearance, was nearly horizontal, so gradual was its\nfall. The eastern opening takes a short turn to the southeast, and then\ndescends rapidly to the coast.\n\n\"At the bottom were found beds of hard gravel, and among it what\nappeared to be carbonate of lime, and detached black crystals like\naugite, but chrysolite was absent.\n\n\"From the summit of the mountain the direction of the lava stream could\nbe perceived, appearing, as it approached the sea, to assume more the\nshape of a delta.\n\n\"From the summit the whole cleft or crater is seen, and could be traced\nfrom the highest point between the two coasts, flowing both to the\nnorthward and eastward. Volcanic action seems also to have occurred on\nthe southwest side, for a line of scoria hills extends all the way down\nthe mountain, and a lava stream is said to have burst forth about a\ncentury ago, which still retains its freshness. The scoria hills on the\ntop very much resemble those of Mauna Kea, but the mountain itself\nappears wholly unlike either of the two in Hawaii, and sinks into\ninsignificance when compared with them.\n\n\"Although I have mentioned lava streams on this mountain, yet they are\nnot to be understood as composed of true lava, as on Mauna Loa; none of\nthe latter were seen except that spoken of on the southwest side, and\nnone other is believed to exist. No pumice or capillary glass was at any\ntime seen, nor are they known to exist on this island. On the wall of\nthe crater, in places, the compass was so much affected by local\nattraction as to become useless.\n\n\"Near the summit is a small cave, where they observed the silkworm eggs\nof Mr. Richards, which were kept here in order to prevent them from\nhatching at an improper season. The thermometer in the cave stood at\n44\u00b0; the temperature at the highest point was 36\u00b0, and in the crater\n71\u00b0. After three days' stay, the party returned to the establishment of\nMessrs. Lane and Minor, and thence to Wailuku. They were much gratified\nwith their tour.\"\n\nThe name Haleakala can thus be regarded as having been formally\nintroduced by members of the Wilkes Expedition. As the fame of the\nbeauties and wonders of the mountain spread, visitors from all parts of\nthe globe came to make the arduous climb to the summit. Most found\nshelter from the elements in natural caves. Big Flea and Little Flea\ncaves, a quarter of a mile from the summit, are often mentioned in early\naccounts. That their accommodation was not highly relished can be seen\nfrom a description by Damon in 1847: \"... which did not hold out many\nattractions, and I have good reasons for believing it already possessed\ntenants that would sharply contend for occupancy with any way-faring and\nluckless wight.\"[8] In tales of early visits, literature--especially the\nBible--was gleaned for phraseology that might help portray emotions\nfelt; fantastic similes and metaphors were drawn to transmit\ncomprehension of the scene. On a visit in 1853, G. W. Bates mentioned:\n\"From the point where I stood a huge pit, capable of burying three\ncities as large as New York--opened before me.\"[9] True, New York then\nlacked its present colossal stature, but a milder expression, \"could\nhold the whole of New York City\" still is in use today. For information,\nthe following areas are given from _Thrum's Annual_ and the _World\nAlmanac_: area of Haleakala \"crater,\" 19.0 sq. mi.; area of Maui, 728\nsq. mi.; area of Manhattan borough, 31.2 sq. mi.; area of New York City,\n381 sq. mi. Discomforts, silversword, sandalwood, wild dogs, cattle,\ngoats, the weather, and personal impressions form much of the subject\nmatter of early essays.\n\nThe early residents of Maui recognized the value of the mountain as a\nscenic feature and tourist attraction. Their first move was for better\novernight shelter on the mountain. C. W. Dickey in 1894 raised $850 by\npopular subscription for material with which to build a simple shelter\nat Kalahaku Lookout. H. P. Baldwin and the sugar plantations furnished\nlabor and pack animals. The long trip of 25 miles to the location had to\nbe made on foot or by saddle, and required a full, tiring day; all\nbuilding material except rock had to be transported by pack stock. In\npainfully characteristic manner, many of those for whose benefit the\nsweat and toil were expended proved unworthy since they roughly abused\nthe structure. Windows were broken, timber in the floor and walls was\nripped out and used for firewood, and garbage and filth accumulated. A\ntropical storm added to the damage by unroofing the house; Worth Aiken\nraised $1,500 for its renovation and repair. In 1914-15, the cabin was\nimproved with a concrete floor, metal doors, and metal shutters. Two\nadditional dormitories were added in 1924-25 at a cost of $11,000 and\noperation of the building was turned over to E. J. Walsh, manager of the\nGrand Hotel, Wailuku. Usefulness dropped with the opening of the\nHaleakala Road, so that on September 24, 1934 its custodian, the Maui\nChamber of Commerce, transferred ownership to the National Park Service.\nThe structures were razed in 1957, but plans are underway to replace\nthem with a modern observatory in which people may look at the scene in\nglass-enclosed comfort.\n\nIn the movement to create a National Park in Hawaii in the early part of\nthe 20th century, the idea developed that it should consist of the\ncraters of Kilauea, Mauna Loa, and Haleakala. The citizens of Maui gave\nfull approval for including their beloved mountain. Hawaii National\nPark, composed of these three sections, was established by Act of\nCongress on August 1, 1916, but formal dedication was delayed until\n1921. Following improvement of Halemauu Trail in 1929, a permanent\nranger position was set up for continuous attention to the area. Today\nit is administered by an assistant superintendent who has a staff of two\nrangers and a naturalist.\n\nThe building of a road to the summit was fulfillment of a promise to the\npeople of Maui when the park was created. The first step had to be\nconstruction by the Territory of a highway from Pukalani Junction to the\npark boundary near Puu Nianiau. This was completed at a cost of $504,000\nin April 1933 after 39 months of work. As with similar projects\nelsewhere in Hawaii, superstitions of long-ago reappeared. Although not\nantagonistic to progress, Hawaiians raised a cry that all effort was\nfutile; the chicken god, Kalau-heli-moa, would conspire and never permit\nthe project to be completed. Every mishap was attributed to this\nnemesis.\n\nThe Park Service completed its commitment soon afterwards at the cost of\n$376,000. The road was armor-surfaced in the fall of 1935. Extensive,\nappropriate dedication ceremonies were held for the opening.\n\nWith the establishment of a Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) camp in\nKilauea, a strip camp of 25 men was set up near Puu Nianiau cinder cone.\nPart of the time, a tent camp was also established within the crater.\nMany improvements became possible through this undertaking. The\nobservatory building on the summit was constructed in 1936; the three\nshelters within the crater, Kapalaoa, Paliku, and Holua, were built a\nyear later. Prior to their completion, overnight shelter was sought in\ncaves, the best known being Bubble Cave (see Numbered Points of\nInterest, topic 15) and Holua Cave which is in the pali wall behind the\ncabin.\n\nThe CCC camp was abandoned in April 1941, and its structures were turned\nover to the Army that greatly improved them. During the period of its\noccupancy, the Army constructed for radar installation the ugly concrete\nblock house that still protrudes on the summit of Red Hill. With\nevacuation of the military, the CCC quarters were adapted for the\nservice of a concessioner to supply meals and lodging within the park.\n\nNormal travel to Haleakala was interrupted for a year when the section\nwas closed following the attack on Pearl Harbor, December 7, 1941.\nAnnual travel had passed the 25,000 mark in 1939. Travel for the year\n1958 reached a high of 56,940 visitors.\n\nThe summit of Haleakala attracted early consideration as a site for\nvarious scientific studies. It is a prime target for many scientific\nplanners, because the high mountain is situated in the middle of a broad\nocean, yet the summit is readily accessible by road. Often this\neagerness has obscured possible use of other suitable sites and has\nclashed with the basic purpose of the area as a National Park. The\nNational Park Service strives to keep the scene as primitive as\npossible, assiduously blending buildings and structures into the\nlandscape, whereas the non-conformist gives no thought to this but\nfollows the easiest way. Too often economy of construction and\noperation, together with careless housekeeping, invert an attraction to\na repulsion which even the splendor of the scene cannot offset. Skyline\nbuildings, obtrusively strung wires, thoughtlessly gouged land, and\nabandoned debris are not conducive to aesthetic experience, whatever\ntheir purpose or whoever the offender.\n\n [Illustration: Haleakala holiday.]\n\nThe earliest scientific study associated with the mountain concerned\nweather. It is said that the Hawaiian Islands are situated near a\ncritical area in the Pacific which is a birthplace of weather. The\nsummit offers an ideal place for detection and observance of the\nformation of high clouds. Much additional research is needed to provide\na steady flow of data for successful and safe operation of air\ntransportation. Many crashes have been blamed on lack of weather data.\nThe task is not always simple, as statistical readings may be confusing.\nThose made on Red Hill, for example, are influenced by local circulation\nset up by the heating of several square miles of black, barren lava and\ncinders.\n\nThe Federal Aeronautics Administration maintains a station a mile beyond\nRed Hill. In the earlier fifties cosmic radiation was studied with a\nhuge revolving truss located back of Red Hill. The military has set up\napparatus and teams from time to time for experiments with radio, radar,\nand radiation. Finally, for the International Geophysical Year,\nHaleakala summit was chosen for one of the important satellite tracking\nstations supervised by the Smithsonian Institution of Washington.\n\n\n IMPORTANT DATES\n\n500 A. D., ca.--Hawaii discovered by Hawaii-loa, Polynesian\n fisherman-navigator who, tradition says, came from Kahiki\n (Tahiti?), an island to the south. He made several round trips,\n bringing with him a large company of retainers.\n\n1100 ca.--After a wave of navigation, intercourse with Tahiti ended.\n\n1300 ca.--According to an ancient chant, _mele_, Kalaunuiohua, _moi_ of\n Hawaii, conquered Maui. _Moi_, in 19th century Hawaiian, signifies\n the supreme ruler or head chief, now usually termed _king_.\n\n1500--Piilani, king of Maui. He was succeeded by Lonoapii who in turn\n was overthrown by his brother Kihapiilani and his brother-in-law,\n King Umi of the Big Island. Bloody battles stretched from Kauiki\n to the sands of Waihee.\n\n1555--Possible discovery of Hawaii by Juan Gaetano, Spanish navigator.\n He prepared a manuscript chart now in the Spanish archives which\n contains a group of islands in the latitude of Hawaii but whose\n longitude is 10 degrees too far to the east. What corresponds to\n Maui is called _La Desgradiada_, the unfortunate. The largest,\n most southerly island, which should be the present Hawaii is\n labelled _La Mesa_, the table. Three other islands, appearing to\n be Kahoolawe, Lanai, and Molokai, are called _Los Monjes_, the\n monks.\n\n1736--King Kekaulike died and was succeeded by Kamehamehanui.\n\n1737--Alapainui, _moi_ of Hawaii, invaded Maui via Kaupo. He took with\n him two young princely half-brothers, Kalaniopuu and Keoua. Keoua\n was father of Kamehameha I. Since Alapainui found his adversary,\n Kekaulike, dead, he made peace with the nephew, Kamehamehanui. The\n two joined forces to repel the invader, Kapiiohokalani of Oahu, in\n bloody, obstinate battles that ended in the rout of the Oahu army\n at Kawela, Molokai.\n\n1738--At Keawawa, West Maui, Alapanainui and Kamehamehanui decisively\n defeated Kauhi, the latter's brother and usurper of power.\n\n1750 ca.--The calculated date of the most recent activity of Haleakala,\n the Keoneoio flow above La Perouse Bay. The flow originated at\n Kaluaolapa at an elevation of 575 feet, and from vents one mile\n further northeast at an elevation of 1,550 feet. The method of\n dating is interesting. In 1841, Rev. Edward Bailey of Wailuku\n inquired about the eruption and was informed by Hawaiians that it\n happened at the time of their grandfathers. In 1906, Lorrin A.\n Thurston was told by a Chinese-Hawaiian cowboy, Charles Ako, that\n his father-in-law's grandfather at the time of the event was just\n old enough to carry \"two\" coconuts 4 or 5 miles from the sea to\n the upper road at an elevation of 2,000 feet. Since Hawaiians\n counted coconuts by fours, \"two\" probably refers to a total of\n eight nuts. Mr. Bailey was told that a woman and child were\n trapped by the flow but escaped after it cooled. By 1922, 80 years\n later, this tale had grown into a neo-myth about a husband and\n wife with their two children. The mother and her young daughter\n fled _mauka_, but were seized by Pele, and turned into the two\n lava columns that stand beside the vent at Kaluaolapa. The father\n and son, plunged into the sea and started swimming toward\n Kahoolawe. Pele cast rocks after them and turned the two to stone.\n The two rocks, a big and a little one, can be seen today rising\n out of the sea several hundred feet out from shore as proof of the\n tale. Mr. Thurston's estimate of the date of the eruption is 1750\n while J. F. G. Stokes, Hawaiian ethnologist, favors a later date,\n possibly 1770.\n\n1754--Kalaniopuu, warlike king of Hawaii, captured the fortress Kauiki\n and held it successfully for more than 20 years.\n\n1765--Kamehamehanui died and was succeeded by his brother, Kahekili.\n\n1768--Queen Kaahumanu was born at Kauiki. She became the favorite wife\n of Kamehameha I.\n\n1775--Kalaniopuu was defeated by Kahekili at Kaupo.\n\n1776--Kalaniopuu invaded Maui at Maalaea; his army was annihilated on\n the sand hills near Wailuku.\n\n1777--Kalaniopuu took Lanai but again was repelled when he tried to\n invade Maui.\n\n1778, November 26--Captain James Cook, Royal British Navy, discovered\n Maui.\n\n1781--Kahekili reconquered East Maui. He recaptured the fort at Kauiki\n by cutting off the water supply. To show contempt, he baked the\n bodies of the defenders in earth ovens.\n\n1786--Kamehameha I sent an expedition to recapture East Maui. It was\n defeated at Kipahulu by Kalanikapule, the son of King Kahekili.\n\n1786, May 28--La Perouse visited Maui and camped on Keoneoio lava flow.\n\n1790--Olowalu massacre. The snow, _Eleanor_, under Captain Simon\n Metcalf, treacherously opened fire on native boats following a\n truce made after one white sailor had been murdered. More than a\n hundred natives were slaughtered.\n\n1790--Conquest of Maui by Kamehameha I after landing at Hana. He\n decisively defeated Kalanikapule, in the Battle of Iao Valley or\n Kepaniwai.\n\n1793--Vancouver visited Maui on his second expedition. He tried to bring\n about an end to the wars and to establish a lasting peace between\n Maui and Hawaii.\n\n1795--Maui was subdued by Kamehameha I without a battle.\n\n1819--Kamehameha I, king of all Hawaii, died. Abolition of the _kapu_\n system by Kamehameha II, incited by his guardian, Queen Kaahumanu.\n\n1823--The Christian mission at Lahaina was founded by Rev. William\n Richards and A. S. Stewart. On September 16, Queen Keopuolani, a\n wife of Kamehameha I and a devout Christian, died at Lahaina. She\n was buried with services by Rev. William Ellis.\n\n1824--At Lahaina, Queen Regent Kaahumanu orally proclaimed a law\n forbidding desecration of the Sabbath, fighting, murder, and\n theft.\n\n1825--The English frigate _The Blonde_ anchored off Lahaina with the\n bodies of King Liholiho (Kamehameha II) and his queen, Kamamalu.\n They had died from measles while on a visit to London.\n\n1825--The crew from the Whaler _Daniel_ attempted to demolish the home\n of Rev. Richards, Lahaina.\n\n [Illustration: Sliding Sands Trail.]\n\n1826--Mosquitoes from Mexico were introduced at Lahaina by the SS\n _Wellington_.\n\n1827--The Whaler _John Palmer_ fired on the home of Rev. Richards.\n\n1829--Ascent of Haleakala by a missionary party.\n\n1834--First Hawaiian newspaper _Lama Hawaii_ was published at\n Lahainaluna Mission School.\n\n1839--An Hawaiian \"Bill of Rights\" was signed at Lahaina by Kamehameha\n III. It afforded protection to all people and their property while\n they conformed to the laws of the kingdom.\n\n1841--Haleakala Crater was visited by Pickering and Breckenridge of the\n United States Exploring Expedition under Captain John Wilkes, U.\n S. Navy.\n\n1841-1849--Peak of whaling industry in Hawaii. Lahaina was visited by\n 596 Whalers in 1846.\n\n1850--David Malo, Hawaiian antiquarian and teacher at Lahainaluna\n School, Lahaina, conducted Rev. William P. Alexander and Curtis\n Lyons from Kaupo through Haleakala Crater, to Makawao, \"a trip\n never before undertaken by white men.\"\n\n1876--S. F. Alexander and H. P. Baldwin started construction of the\n Hamakua Ditch, first big irrigation project in Hawaii.\n\n1890--First pineapples were planted at Haiku.\n\n1893--Overthrow of the monarchy and establishment of the Republic of\n Hawaii. Queen Liliuokalani was the last reigning sovereign.\n\n1898, August 12--Hawaii was annexed to United States by joint\n legislation of Congress. President Dole was appointed first\n governor.\n\n1916--Hawaii National Park was established by Act of Congress on August\n 1 with Haleakala Crater forming the Section on Maui.\n\n1921--Hawaii National Park was formally opened.\n\n1929, November 11--Establishment of commercial air service between the\n islands.\n\n1930--First permanent park position (ranger) was established to give\n continuous service at Haleakala.\n\n1931--First permanent park naturalist was appointed for Hawaii National\n Park, although temporary, summer interpretive services were\n started in the late twenties by the employment of Otto Degener,\n formerly botanist at the University of Hawaii. Dr. Degener,\n presently writing Book 6 of his \"_Flora Hawaiiensis_,\" kindly\n supplied many of the scientific plant names for this guide.\n\n1935 February 23--Dedication ceremonies of Haleakala Road in Hawaii\n National Park.\n\n1937--Kapalaoa, Paliku, and Holua cabins were constructed.\n\n1941--Haleakala closed to travel for military reasons.\n\n1952-3--Present exhibits were installed in Summit Observation Station.\n\n1958--Permanent naturalist position established for Haleakala.\n\n1959--Hawaii becomes the 50th state in the Union.\n\n\n\n\n GEOLOGY\n\n\n THE ORIGIN OF THE SCENIC FEATURES\n\n_The Island of Maui_ was built by two volcanoes. That forming West Maui\nis deeply dissected into several high peaks. The old summit crater now\nis encompassed by the head of Iao Valley. Mt. Kukui, the highest point,\nhas an elevation of 5,788 feet.\n\nEast Maui is built of three series of lava products from Haleakala\nVolcano whose flows extended westward across the present isthmus to come\nto rest against the base of West Maui Volcano. These represent three\ngreat periods of activity, the latter two being separated by a long\ninterval of quiescence that was characterized by intense erosion and\nmild, if any, eruptions. Geologists designate these three periods by the\nnames Honomanu, Kula, and Hana. The mountain was built over three rifts,\nnortherly, easterly, and southwesterly, each extending about fifteen\nmiles.\n\nIn earliest (Honomanu) time, about the beginning of the Ice Ages, a\nsymmetrical shield like Mauna Loa was built of pahoehoe and aa basalts\n8,500 feet above present sea-level. During the next (Kula) cycle,\neruptions were more explosive in nature; flows were composed of more\nviscous andesite between which layers of ash and soil accumulated. Big\ncinder cones and extensive ash beds were formed at this time. Like Mauna\nKea today, the Honomanu dome was capped by a craterless mound of\ncinders, 2,500 feet high, that was studded with many lesser cones. The\nsummit was a mile east of the present top on Red Hill and a thousand\nfeet higher than it is today.\n\nAs Kula eruptions declined and grew less frequent, running water cut\ndeeply into the sides of the mountain and excavated four great valleys,\nKeanae, Kaupo, Kipahulu, and Waihoi, that had broad heads, thousands of\nfeet deep. Numerous lesser valleys were later to be buried more or less\nby lava flows. Most of the eastern summit ridge was worn away; Kaupo and\nKeanae Valleys met near the summit and fused into a great depression\nlike that near the head of Iao Valley today. At one time, a great flow\nof mud, probably triggered by an earthquake, swept all before it as it\nmoved down Kaupo Valley into the sea. Its remnants today are 350 feet\ndeep at Puu Maneoneo near the coastal road. A similar mass movement of\nrock on soft mud was started by an earthquake on April 2, 1868 at Wood\nValley, west of the Kilauea Section of Hawaii National Park; the flow,\nin its precipitous descent, buried a village with 31 people and more\nthan 500 head of stock.\n\nIn recent times, volcanism again quickened at Haleakala, giving the\nthird (Hana) series of volcanics. This veneered the east and west slopes\nof the volcano, covered the floor of the depression, and pushed great\nlava flows through Koolau and Kaupo Gaps to the sea. Large flows and\ncones mask the divide that delimited the two great valleys. During Hana\ntime, the northern rift alone remained inactive. The most recent\nactivity, dated by Hawaiian legend as 1750, is represented by two bare,\nblack flows above La Perouse Bay, the southwest corner of the island.\n\n [Illustration: The Recent Cinder Cones.]\n\nHaleakala Crater, 7 miles long and 2\u00bd miles wide, is locally proclaimed\nthe largest extinct crater on earth, but the claim like the name is\ninaccurate. Nevertheless, it possesses a most unusual geological origin\nand beauty that give it a worthy place among the National Parks.\n\n [Illustration: HAWAII NATIONAL PARK\n HALEAKALA SECTION]\n\n NUMBERED POINTS\n 1. PARK ENTRANCE; SILVERSWORD INN\n 2. HOSMER GROVE CAMPGROUND AND PICNIC AREA\n 3. ADMINISTRATION BUILDING, HAWAII NATIONAL PARK, HALEAKALA SECTION\n 4. KALAHAKU OVERLOOK; SILVERSWORD PLANTS\n 5. OBSERVATORY\n 6. WHITE HILL, START OF SLIDING SANDS TRAIL\n 7. RED HILL; SUMMIT OF HALEAKALA\n 8. SKYLINE DRIVE\n 9. START OF HALEMAUU TRAIL\n 10. HOLUA CABIN\n 11. SILVERSWORD LOOP\n 12. ANCIENT HAWAIIAN TRAIL\n 13. BOTTOMLESS PIT\n 14. KA MOA O PELE TRAIL\n 15. BUBBLE CAVE\n 16. WAIKAU CABIN\n 17. VOLCANIC DIKES; ANCIENT DIVIDE BETWEEN KOOLAU AND KAUPO RIVER\n VALLEYS\n 18. LAUULU TRAIL\n 19. PALIKU CABIN\n 20. KIPAHULU VALLEY\n 21. KAUPO TRAIL\n KIPAHULU FOREST RESERVE\n KOOLAU FOREST RESERVE\n HALEAKALA RANCH\n\n\n THE GEOLOGICAL INTERPRETATION\n\nThe summit depression of Haleakala stimulates speculation, and competent\ngeologists have come up with widely differing hypotheses regarding its\norigin. In the account of their visit (see The Historical Background, p.\n29), the first foreign visitors naturally used the term \"crater,\" which\nhas been in vogue ever since. Pickering and Drayton of the Wilkes\nExpedition remark, \"The crater of Haleakala, if so it may be called, is\na deep gorge.\"[10]\n\nDrayton's sketch was the first published map of the crater. James Dana,\nthe great geologist with the Expedition, sailed past the mountain and\nlater wrote a physiographic description based on notes made by Pickering\nand Drayton. In the official report, he expressed the idea, suggested by\nthe crude map, that the mountain has been ripped apart by mighty\nconvulsions that attended the most recent activity, so that the\nnortheastern (Hana) part was separated along a zigzag crack from the\nrest of the mountain by the width of Keanae and Kaupo Valleys.[11]\nDuring the great eruptions that attended the rending, lava covered the\nfloor and poured in great floods through Koolau and Kaupo Gaps.\n\nW. D. Alexander, who surveyed the crater in 1869, believed: \"... this is\na real terminal crater, and not merely 'a deep gorge open at the north\nand east' or a caldera. I have indeed heard the theory proposed that the\nmountain is but a wreck of a complete dome with a small terminal crater,\nthe whole top of which has fallen in and been carried away, as is\nsupposed to have been the case with some of the volcanoes of Java, and\nthe caldera of Palma.\"[12]\n\nC. E. Dutton, volcanologist of the United States Geological Survey,\nobjected to Dana's explanation and wrote that the depression is\n\"strictly homologous\" to Kilauea Crater, that is, a collapsed\ncaldera.[13] He assumed that this had been tapped by the upper ends of\nKeanae and Kaupo drainages. In 1887, Dana had opportunity to make a\nquick trip through the crater and down Kaupo Valley, so that he tempered\nhis earlier opinion and decided that Keanae and Kaupo valleys might be\ngraben.[14] Reginald Daly of Harvard rejected the hypothesis that the\ndepression was like Kilauea Crater, since arcuate faults so prominent at\nKilauea are apparently absent at Haleakala.[15] In his paper on\npetrography, Whitman Cross stated, \"What is commonly called the crater\nof Haleakala appears to me to be, in some part at least, a result of\nerosion.\"[16] At about the same time, Sidney Powers stated his belief\nthat Kipahulu and Waihoi Valleys are graben, but he based his opinion on\n\"authentic reports\" and does not claim that he saw the valleys.[17]\n\n [Illustration: Ahinahina (silversword).]\n\nH. T. Stearns analyzed carefully all the supporting evidence and\nobjections to the various viewpoints.[18] Of all of his profession, he\nmade the most thorough field surveys, with the conclusion that the\n\"crater\" is chiefly erosional, affected by the recession of two great\namphitheater-headed valleys, instead of by collapse, sliding away of the\nside of a cone, or explosion. Small craters may have existed at the\ntime, but not a large one resembling the present depression. He believed\nthat the big size results from the fact that the heads were offset and\nnot in a straight line. The shape of the depression is what would result\nupon the fusion of two amphitheater heads similar to those of Waikoi,\nKipahulu, and Manawainui valleys of today. Each of these is a typical\nHawaiian valley, narrow at the base, but with a broad amphitheater at\nthe head. Kipahulu is separated from Waihoi and from Kaupo Valleys by\nnarrow divides. It can be assumed that a similar divide once separated\nthe amphitheaters at the heads of the early Kaupo and Keanae drainages.\nStearns further believes that once the rift zone was reached, stream\nerosion was greatly accelerated because of the loosely knit structure,\nthe presence of many weak cinder cones, and the dike complex. This\ncomplex, as in other places in Hawaii, must have yielded perennial\nspring water to accelerate erosion. His summary is as follows:\n\n\"No stratigraphic or constructural evidence was found to support the\nhypothesis that Haleakala Crater is a true caldera, that it was formed\nby renting, or that Keanae and Kaupo valleys tapping this depression are\ngrabens. Instead, detailed mapping and the examination of water tunnels\nshow that Haleakala dome has been eroded by a number of great valleys.\nThe hypothesis is presented that the so-called \"crater\" of Haleakala is\nchiefly, if not entirely, the result of the coalescence of the\namphitheater heads of Kaupo and Keanae valleys and that renewed volcanic\nactivity has partly masked their former divide and partly filled these\nvalleys with lava flows.\"\n\n\n HALEAKALA PLANTS\n\nHaleakala rises above the belt of warm trade winds into the cold, dry\nclimate of the Alpine Zone. Temperatures at night may drop below\nfreezing even in the warmer part of the year; the growing season is\nshort and life is severe. The sparse plants that can live here crouch\nclosely to the ground, diffusing or forming compact rosettes. All they\nhave in which to grow are porous rocks and loose cinders that cannot\nhold moisture, lack organic matter, and do not yield a firm base for\nrooting. Species extending to lower elevations are here depauperate from\nwind and cold, although elsewhere they may attain a sturdy stature, even\ntree-size. Few seedlings are seen; individuals whose life span has\nfinished remain conspicuous in death. Neither trees nor mats of shrubs\nare seen, but mosses and lichens find this Alpine desert to their\nliking. Oddly enough, one looks in vain for brilliant blossoms, such as\none has come to expect in the high Sierra and the Rockies. The summit is\na biological island on an oceanic island which, geological evidence\nindicates, never was part of a continent. The Hawaiian Chain was never\nnear land of appreciable height and size.\n\nHow the Alpine plants came to Hawaii is uncertain since they have\ndescended from ancestors so remote that past relationships are vague.\nThe great Swedish botanist, Carl Skottsberg, believes that they are\nderived from a flora that grew on summits higher than any that exist\ntoday. Such assumption adds to the problem, as little else leads one to\nbelieve that elevations ever significantly exceeded 14,000 feet, i.e.,\nthe highest that exist today. In a report for the Fifth International\nBotanical Congress (Proceedings, pp. 91-97, Cambridge, 1931), Skottsberg\nlisted 13 species found exclusively in the Alpine Zone, all of which are\nendemic, native to no other place than Hawaii's highest volcanoes. Three\nother species listed as occurring in the Alpine Zone extend their range\ndownward into the next lower Subalpine Zone, for which he has listed a\ntotal of 23 species, 20 of which he labels endemic. These adjoining\nzones are not sharply delimited, but blend into each other at 9,000\nfeet.\n\nAs elevation decreases and conditions for growth become better, the\nnumber of plant species increases. The Subalpine Zone with lower limits\njust above the park entrance has some of the most interesting plants\nfound in the islands. Trees are absent but some of its shrubs extend\ntheir range to lower elevations and grow big, sometimes even to\ntree-size. Most Subalpine plants have small leaves or leaflets,\nindicating that lasting moisture is still scant. Occasional snowfall\nseldom remains long and never piles into drifts, which would conserve\nmoisture.\n\nMost of the interior of the crater is bare or thinly covered with\nvegetation. The uncongenial climate of the summit spills into it and\nextends throughout its length, though the elevation is much lower.\nExtensive aa flows, ash, and cinder cones cover the floor. Yet the\ncrater has perhaps become best known through the presence of one of its\nplants, the silversword. Also, the lips of Koolau and Kaupo Gaps are\nbotanically distinctive in contrast to the barreness elsewhere. This\nresults from the fog and rain that sweep through them in late morning,\nonly to dissolve upon mixing with the warmer air inside. As the day\nprogresses, clouds push further and further inward, until, rarely, the\nwhole depression may become filled. Koolau especially is a\ntreasure-trove for the plant-lover. Below 6,000 feet, quite outside the\npark, it becomes impenetrable jungle surpassed only by that in Kipahulu\nValley, a few miles east. Kaupo Cap is comparatively dry, but it\nsupports a sparse scrub cover of great interest. The lower parts of\nKaupo Valley are grazing land. Paliku is the only place within the park\nin which vegetation is lush. As it climbs Leleiwi Pali, Halemauu Trail\nis bordered by OHELO and ferns, among them AMAUMAU which is pleasing to\nthe weary hiker's eye.\n\nIn the northwestern angle of the park not far from the inn, Nianiau\nCrater has had a renowned floral character and history. Today it is\novergrazed and drab. Dr. Joseph Rock, Hawaii's famed dendrologist,\ndiscovered a curious tree _lobelia_, _Clermontia haleakalensis_, growing\nwithin it. He happily described the plant as \"antediluvian in\nappearance.\" This most primitive member of a distinctive Hawaiian floral\ngroup had a robust trunk from which clumsy, stubby branches shot off,\neach crowned with a feather-duster of long, thick, strap-shaped leaves\nlike some pompous dictator's headdress. MAMANE and AKALA grew thickly\naround it; rarer associates included tree geraniums, _Neurophyllodes\nsp._, with flowers like violets, tree _Railliardia_, shrubby Hawaiian\nbuttercups, and greensword, _Argyroxiphium virescens_, that is\nthreatened with extermination by grazing to an extent greater than of\nits relative, the silversword.\n\n [Illustration: BISHOP MUSEUM, J. F. ROCK COLLECTION\n Clermontia Haleakalensis.]\n\nEven though they are outside the park, some plant communities on the\nouter slopes of the mountain should be mentioned, because they are\nrelated to park forms and carry a compelling interest. The trail from\nOlinda to Waikamoi is through a transition forest between the wet and\nthe dry that once drew botanists from many parts of the globe. It is now\novergrown with foreign weeds, so that native shrubs survive only here\nand there. The mountain forests above Olinda have all been destroyed and\nare replaced by plants from faraway lands.\n\nAlthough it now lies devastated by change, one of the richest botanical\nregions in Hawaii comprises the forbidding lava fields of Auwahi on the\nsouthwest slope of Haleakala. Fifty species of native trees once thrived\nin its fabulous mixed forests. The only known specimen of Maui\nhibiscadelphus, _H. wilderianus_, a relative of the hibiscus, was found\nhere. It had a curved corolla that opened only slightly at the top. Its\ncongener, _H. giffardianus_, once equally rare, still survives in Kipuka\nPuaulu at Kilauea, where a few vigorous plants, started by air-layering,\nreceive tender care from the National Park. The last known Maui specimen\nof MAHOE, _Alectryon macrococcus_, grows in an Auwahi gulch. This tree\nhas large double fruits (_mahoe_ means _twins_) that split open to\nexpose a shiny, chestnut-brown seed clasped in a brilliant scarlet aril.\nThe ALANI, _Pelea multiflora_, of the lava fields is festooned with a\nlichen, _Usnea australis_, that appears to prefer it to all other trees.\nHaleakala sandalwood, _Santalum haleakalae_, with attractive red flowers\ngrows to be a tree 25 feet tall. Other famous native trees include\n'OHE'OHE, _Tetraplasandra kauaiensis_; 'OHE, _Tetraplasandra meiandra_;\nA'E, _Fagara_ sp.; 'ALA'A, _Planchonella auahiensis_, with golden\nfruits; HO'AWA, _Pittosporum terminalioides_; OLOPUA, _Nestegis\nsandwicensis_; A'IA'I, _Pseudomorus sandwicensis_; MEHANE, _Antidesma\npulvinatum_; and KAUILA, _Alphitonia ponderosa_, whose hard and durable\ntimber was used in sacred structures.\n\nMany unusual plants occur in the steep valleys to the north and east\noutside the park. Since the dense jungles in which they grow are\ninaccessible except to hardiest botanists, they are seldom seen. Here\ngrow 'APE'APE, _Gunnera petaloidea_, a plant with geranium-like leaves\nthree or more feet in diameter; a delicate, rare, native begonia,\n_Hillebrandia sandwicensis_; several exquisitely flowering lobelias. The\nsummit bogs on Kukui and Mt. Eke in West Maui have a curious,\ndistinctive flora that includes three species with origins ascribed to\nthe Antarctic: _Orebolus furcatus_, a sedge; _Acaena exigua_ of the Rose\nFamily; and _Lagenophora mauiensis_, a composite.\n\n [Illustration: BISHOP MUSEUM, J. F. ROCK COLLECTION\n Tetromalopium.]\n\n [Illustration: BISHOP MUSEUM, J. F. ROCK COLLECTION\n Begonia.]\n\nThe Haleakala road is the easiest way to reach elevations above 7,000\nfeet in Hawaii. The lower mountain slopes up which it winds were once\nclothed with fern jungles that yielded with altitude to dry forest. All\nis now altered. Extensive grasslands and eucalyptus groves today leave\nthe lasting impression on the visitor. Even on the heights, cattle,\ngoats, introduced plants, insects, and other agents have wrought\npermanent change. Rare and interesting forms of native life have been\nexterminated or are well on the way to extinction. The National Park is\ntrying hard to save what is left of the native cover within its\nboundaries and to restore the former scene wherever it is possible to do\nso.\n\n [Illustration: BISHOP MUSEUM, J. F. ROCK COLLECTION\n 'Ape'ape.]\n\nPlants of the distinctive Haleakala environment show differences, some\nslight, some considerable, from close relatives elsewhere. Examples are\nthe OLAPA at Paliku, the silversword, and the KUPAOA. The differences\nhave been fashioned by combinations of factors. The unstable, permeable\nash and cinders have scant soil and little available mineral matter.\nThey cannot hold water nor do they yield secure anchorage. The effects\nof winds, isolation, exposure, and nature of terrain are reflected by\nthe distorted shapes. Silversword, _Artemisia_, _Bidens_, and many other\nplants well show adaptation to peculiar environment. Why are some\nspecies found nowhere else? How did the plants get here in the first\nplace and how have they changed with the passing of time? What has been\nthe impact of exotics? What use did the Hawaiians make of the plants? To\nthe hurried and casual visitor, the flora of Haleakala may appear drab\nand uninteresting. With better acquaintance, it becomes a stimulating\nstudy indeed.\n\n\n\n\n PLANT NOTES\n\n\nTHE FERNS. The Sliding Sands Trail drops from White Hill on bare slopes\nof red and gray Cinders. As it levels below Puu o Pele, a lush, green\ncarpet spreads along the south wall of the crater. It is a surprise to\ndiscover that ferns compose the verdure, for several kinds find the\nshelter of the cliffs agreeable. Haleakala's KA'UPU, _Polystichum\nhaleakalense_ Brack., a rather coarse, low plant with scaly stems, grows\namong the shrubs. The pellucid polypody, 'AE, _Polypodium pellucidum_\nKaulf., and the maidenhair spleenwort, 'IWA'IWA, _Asplenium\nadiantum-nigrum_ L., grow here, but they are common elsewhere as well.\nIwaiwa is a small plant with shiny, slender stems and stiff, triangular\nfronds that thrives in the brush. On Leleiwi Pali it is a tiny thing,\nclinging to the rocks. This fern is known in mountainous regions in many\ncountries. Another maidenhair spleenwort, 'OWALI'I, _Asplenium\ntrichomanes_ L., makes its home on barren lava above 5,000 feet on the\ninner slopes of the crater. Its small, opposite, rounded or ovate frond\nsegments, _pinnae_, grow on wiry stems that form dense clumps. Look for\nit along Halemauu Trail on Leleiwi Pali. It is found in the temperate\nzones and on high mountains in many parts of the world.\n\nBracken, KILAU, _Pteridium aquilinum_ var. _decompositum_ (Gaud.) Tryon,\na stiff cosmopolitan, is among the best-known ferns. It grows in grassy\nspots inside and outside the crater. Foraging pigs, seeking its tasty\nrootstocks, often uproot it in the forests. The young leaves of\nAMA'UMA'U, _Sadleria cyatheoides_ Kaulf., add a touch of red along\nHalemauu Trail on Leleiwi Pali. At Paliku, several moisture-loving ferns\ngrow on logs, rocks, and moss-covered trees. Large, dense ae are quite\nunlike the frail specimens on Leleiwi Pali. The following can be seen in\ndamp spots and on tree trunks: Maui's paddle, 'EKAHA, _Elaphoglossum\nreticulatum_ (Kaulf.) Gaud., with paddle-shaped blades 6-12 inches long;\n'EKAHA-'AKOLEA, _Pleopeltis thunbergiana_ Kaulf., a small fern with\ntough, pale, elliptico-oblong (paddle-shaped) fronds; and MOA, _Psilotum\ncomplanatum_ Sw., belonging to a small group of tropical plants,\nPSILOTALES, which reproduce by spores, but are distinct from true ferns,\nclubmosses, and the better-known orders.\n\nSwordfern, NI'ANI'AU or 'OKUPUKUPU, _Nephrolepis exaltata_ (L.) Schott.,\nis widely distributed at Haleakala as it is elsewhere in Hawaii.\nCliffbrake, KALAMOHO LAULI'I, _Pellaea ternifolia_ (Cav.) Link, grows\namong rocks in dry, sunny locations at higher elevations above the park\nentrance and inside the crater. It is common. The bluish-green pinnae of\nthis short, slender fern grow on opposite sides of the dark, wiry stems.\nThey are cleft into three linear segments.\n\n\nTHE NATIVE GRASSES. Several native grasses grow above the park entrance:\n_Trisetum glomeratum_ (Kunth) Trin., _Deschampsia australis_ forma\n_haleakalensis_ Skottsb., and _Agrostis sandwicensis_ Hillebr. The\n_Trisetum_, also common inside the crater, is called mountain pili, PILI\nbeing the lowland grass known in many tropical regions and used for\nthatching houses in Hawaii. The Hawaiian name for _T. glomeratum_ is\nPILIUKA, upland pili. In some places it is also called HE'U PUEO, the\nhoot of an owl.\n\nAll three grasses are tufted, i.e., bunch grasses. The _Deschampsia_ has\ntough, wiry blades (leaves) with shiny, open panicles of flowers and\nseeds. The _Agrostis_ has stiffly upright blades and culms (jointed\nstems) with spike-like panicles. The pili has flat blades usually\ncovered with soft hairs. The panicles are contracted or spike-like.\n\n\nTHE SEDGES. Fig. 1. Sedges are generally grasslike wind-pollinated herbs\nthat grow in tufts or bunches. They are often the dominant plants in\ncold marshes, especially in the Arctic. They have little economic value\nand grazing animals find them unpalatable. Some have tough, pliable\nstems that are woven into mats and baskets; some have fruiting spikes\nthat are attractive in dry bouquets. Most have 3-angled stems around\nwhich the blades are ranked. The inconspicuous, green flowers are\ncrowded in tight, flattened spikes, often grouped on top of a slender,\ngrasslike stem. Hawaii has a dozen or more native genera with many of\nits species widespread in the world.\n\nThe species common on the upper slopes of Haleakala and on the crater\nfloor, _Gahnia gaudichaudii_ Steud., bears shiny, ebony fruits. These\ncan dangle, suspended by the wilted, threadlike stamens for more than a\nyear from the fruiting stalk. Another sedge, _Carex macloviana subfusca_\n(W. Boott) Kukenth., grows in clumps along the south wall. The fruiting\nstalks bear cylindrical or ovoid clusters of 4-9 spikelets, each \u00bd-1\ninch long. This sedge grows from Lapland and Greenland to northern South\nAmerica, but in Hawaii it has been found only on Haleakala and Kohala\nMountains above 4,000 feet. The Hawaiian variety was first described\nfrom a specimen collected at Lake Tahoe, California. The interesting\n_Oreobolus furcatus_ H. Mann, mentioned as occurring on West Maui, also\ngrows in Koolau Gap.\n\n\nRUSH, _Luzula hawaiiensis_ (O. Ktze.) Buch. A visitor brought me a small\ntufted plant with grass-like leaves covered with soft, silky hairs. He\nwas all excited, believing he had found a young silversword on the\ncinder flats near the summit of Mt. Hualalai. The plant was the endemic\nrush that lives in wet places above 3,000 feet in the mountains of Maui,\nHawaii, and Kauai. In Haleakala Crater, I found it on Leleiwi Pali and\nnear Paliku, where others might mistake it for an immature silversword\nor greensword. The Hawaiian general name for grasses, sedges, and rushes\nis MAU'U.\n\n\nPAINIU, _Astelia degeneri_ Skottsb. This plant is reported by Degener to\nbe growing within the crater.[19]\n\n\nMAU'U-LA'ILI, _Sisyrinchium acre_ H. Mann. A native member of the Iris\nFamily with grass-like leaves that grows on old lava flows between\naltitudes of 3,500 and 7,500 feet on Maui and Hawaii. It is an\nattractive plant that rarely exceeds 12 inches high. In July and August\nit bears yellow flowers \u00be inch across that last only a few hours. In the\ncrater it may be found in Koolau and Kaupo Gaps. The leaves, bound\ntightly around the wrists and ankles, stain the skin a blue color that\nlasts several days. This stain was regarded as proof that a person had\nbeen to the crater. A number of other species of the genus are mainland\nwildflowers commonly called blue-eyed grass.\n\n\nORCHIDS. Fig. 2. The Orchid Family of over 15,000 species is second only\nto the Composite Family in size, yet only three species of three genera\nare native in Hawaii, a land connected in thought with an exuberance of\ngay orchids. Moreover, the three endemic species are characterized by\nsmall size, relative rarity, and inconspicuous flowers. Twayblade,\n_Liparis hawaiiensis_ H. Mann, grows in open woods on the ground and on\nmoss-covered trees on the flanks of the volcano and at Paliku. The\nrarest of the three natives, _Habenaria holochila_ Hillebr., has been\nfound growing 1-2\u00bd feet high in deep moss in fog-swept Koolau Gap. It\nbears its dull-greenish, inconspicuous orchids on a tall, many-flowered\nspike.\n\n\n'ALA 'ALAWAINUI, _Peperomia sp._ A small herb with succulent leaves\nfound at Paliku. It is a member of the Pepper Family, _Piperaceae_, to\nwhich AWA, _Piper methysticum_, belongs. There are many Peperomias\nnative to Hawaiian forests. Some have leaves with gay red undersides.\n\n\nSANDALWOOD, 'ILIAHI, _Santalum haleakalae_ Hillebr. Fig. 3. A small but\nstriking tree found above the park entrance, in Koolau Gap, and along\nthe Kaupo Trail below Paliku. It has leathery, dark green leaves so that\nit stands out in the vegetation and is readily distinguished from afar.\nIn mid-summer, corymbs of four-pointed, deep-red or vermillion flowers\nappear on the ends of branches. The dry heartwood has the fragrance\nwhich is associated with the name sandalwood. Degener tells the detailed\nstory of sandalwood trade that flourished in the islands for fifty years\nbeginning in 1790.[20]\n\n\nSHEEP SORREL, _Rumex acetosella_ L., an abundant, well-known, introduced\nweed found both inside the crater and out. A native species called\nPAWALE, _Rumex gigantius_ Ait., is more interesting. It grows as a\nstocky undershrub on barren lava flows and in rock crevices inside the\ncrater. In Koolau Gap, it becomes a sprawling vine. It is said that a\nmixture of an extraction from the boiled bark and AWA was used by\nHawaiians for skin diseases. This was tried in vain as a cure for\nleprosy when the disease first appeared in the islands in 1840.\n\n\nHAWAIIAN BUTTERCUP, MAKOU, _Ranunculus hawaiiensis_ A. Gray. Like the\nnative violets and geraniums, members of this genus, well-known on the\nmainland, either become bushy or spread as a woody vine in Hawaii. Two\nnative species occur on Haleakala, but the yellow-flowered, sprawling\n_R. mauiensis_ A. Gray is reported only outside the park. The larger\nflowered, erect Hawaiian buttercup, however, was reported by J. F. Rock\nto be abundant formerly in Puu Nianiau Crater. It is a coarse,\nhollow-stemmed, hairy herb with compound leaves divided into three\nsharply-toothed, irregular leaflets. Within Haleakala Crater it grows on\nmoist, grassy slopes in Koolau Gap.\n\n\nHO'AWA, _Pittosporum confertiflorum_ A. Gray. A small tree, sometimes\nbecoming 25 feet tall. The large leaves, shiny green on top, brown hairy\nunderneath, are crowded like whorls on the ends of the branches. In the\ncenters of these, dense clusters of fleshy, cream-colored flowers appear\nin late summer. Wrinkled fruits, resembling English walnuts, hang on the\ntrees throughout the year. Very few trees grow in the crater, but they\nare more numerous above 4,000 feet along the Kaupo Trail and at\nUlupalakua. The genus of some 200 species is widespread; it has many\nspecies native to Hawaii. Some kinds are well-known garden plants.\n_Pittosporum tobira_ (Thunb.) Ait., a native of China and Japan, is a\nfavorite shrub in California.\n\n\nHAWAIIAN HAWTHORN, 'ULEI, _Osteomeles anthyllidifolia_ Smith (Lindl). A\nspreading shrub with compound leaves and fragrant, small, white flowers,\nlike apple blossoms, that may appear throughout the year. The fruit is\nwhite and contains five stony seeds. Plants growing on ash flats are\nvery small. The strong but pliable wood of ulei was used for digging\nsticks, fish spears, and hoops to keep the mouths of fishing nets open.\n\n\nHAWAIIAN RASPBERRY, 'AKALA, _Rubus hawaiiensis_ A. Gray. Fig. 5. A shrub\nwith attractive pink flowers abundant at Paliku. It is found also in\nKoolau Gap at the foot of Leleiwi Pali and elsewhere. The fruit,\nagreeable but somewhat bitter, is remarkable for its large size. It\nripens about the Fourth of July or later. A trailing native, _R.\nmacraei_ A. Gray, sprawls in foggy Koolau Gap. Its large, dark fruits\nare bitter.\n\n\nMAMANE, _Sophora chrysophylla_ Salisb. Fig. 4. A common native shrub or\nsmall tree of the Bean Family both inside and outside the crater up to\ntree line. It is recognized by more or less downy, narrow, compound\nleaves, racemes of yellow flowers, and twisted pods that have four wings\nand are constricted between the seeds. Goats eat it greedily and quickly\nexterminate it in an area. The hard, durable wood was used by Hawaiians\nin many ways; today it is a principal firewood for the crater cabins. A\ntree in full bloom is a beautiful object. The height of the flowering\nseason is mid-spring.\n\n\nGERANIUM, NOHOANU, HINAHINA. Fig. 6, 7. _Neurophyllodes tridens_\n(Hillebr.) Degener & Greenwell is common above the park entrance and on\nthe south wall within the crater. It sometimes becomes three feet tall\nand is readily identified by its silvery leaves, each of which has three\nsmall teeth on the end. The white flowers have purplish veins especially\ntoward their centers. The blooming season is July to October. The\nsilvery aspect of the plant, like the silversword, is imparted by a mesh\nof fine white hair that reflects the light of a passing car as\neffectively as the glass-beaded paint of directional signs.\n\nTwo native geranium relatives grow in Koolau Gap, _N. ovatifolium_ (A.\nGray) Degener & Greenwell and its variety _superbum_. The latter is\ncommon on the trail to Waikau not far from the foot of Leleiwi Pali.\n\nOne of the common plants growing on the crater floor is the exotic\npink-flowered _G. carolinianum_ var. _australi_ (Benth.) Fosberg whose\npointed fruiting bodies give it the common name, _cranesbill_.\n\n\nHAWAIIAN HOLLY, KAWA'U, _Ilex anomala_ Hook and Arn. The forest growing\non the talus behind the Paliku cabins is the finest within the crater. A\nstriking tree of this association is the Hawaiian holly that has dark,\nshiny, oval leaves with conspicuous networks of slightly depressed veins\nthat make identification easy. Dense panicles of small, white flowers\nare followed by shiny, black drupes, like Christmas holly \"berries.\" The\ngenus is that of the English holly. Curiously, the scientific name has\nbeen locally corrupted to _ileck_.\n\n\nOLOMEA, _Perrottetia sandwicensis_ A. Gray. A native shrub or small tree\nbelonging to the same family as the bittersweet of the continent. The\nnumerous tiny, round, red fruits, borne in panicles, suggest the\nrelationship. The bright red venation of leaves and petioles make the\nplant easily recognized. I know of no plants within the park, but found\nmany trees a thousand feet below the park boundary in Keanae Valley.\n\n\nA'AL'II, _Dodonaea eriocarpa_ Smith. Fig. 8. This is a common shrub in\nseveral varieties along the highway and in the western end of the\ncrater. At Paliku and Kaupo Gap it becomes a tree up to 20 feet high and\n8 inches in diameter. Its flowers are inconspicuous but clusters of dry,\nreddish fruit-capsules contrast, flower-like, with the surrounding green\nfoliage. The fruits, abundant from July to September, are used for leis\nand dry bouquets. The hard brown heartwood was used for spears,\n_pololu_, daggers, _pahoa_, and other implements.\n\n\nBEGONIA--PUAMAKANUI, _Hillebrandia sandwicensis_ Oliv. (See illustration\np. 53.) The only native begonia, found in wet ravines often by\nwaterfalls. It grows profusely at Koolau a mile below Holua Cabin at the\nfoot of the rain-drenched _pali_. This succulent herb has a tuberous\nrhizome, unbranched, slender stems, and hairy, toothed leaves 4-10\ninches in diameter. From June to August it bears sprays of bright, pink\nand white flowers. This is one of the floral treasures of Hawaii.\n\n\nTARWEED. _Cuphea carthagenensis_ (Jacq.) McBride. A low, sticky, hairy\nperennial from tropical America widely spread at lower elevations in the\npark. It has red or green branches, small ovate leaves, and tiny but not\nunattractive pink flowers \u00bc inch across. Plants in rock crevices on\ncliffs are tiny; on the crater floor, they may become a foot high and\nform a dense shrubby mat over a sizeable area. The plant belongs to the\nLYTHRACEAE or Crepe Myrtle Family.\n\n\n'OHI'A LEHUA, _Metrosideros collina_ (Forst.) A. Gray. Fig. 9. This, the\ncommonest tree in the islands, consists of a swarm of hybrids of which\nthe parentage is still unknown. It is scattered within the park to tree\nline. It is abundant in the eastern end of the crater and at Paliku. The\nbeautiful flowers, mostly red, a few yellow, may appear throughout the\nyear. Here spring seems to be the best season for them.\n\n\nEVENING PRIMROSE, _Raimannia odorata_ (Jacq.) Sprague & Riley. A\nslender, erect, hairy South American herb introduced forty years ago. It\nis a prolific bloomer, is widespread, and, in blooming season, the most\nconspicuous flower both at Park Headquarters and within the crater. The\nlarge, sulphur-yellow flowers appear at night, but wilt within the\nfollowing day, turning reddish as they do so.\n\n\n'APE'APE--_Gunnera petaloidea_ Gaud. (See illustration p. 54.) A\nhuge-leaved forest perennial with a massive prostrate stem which stands\nerect 3 or 4 feet at the tip. In the center of the leaves a tall stalk\nrises that bears hundreds of small yellow-brown flowers. I know of no\nplants within the crater, but some grow within a mile of the park\nboundary below Koolau Gap, as well as in adjacent wet valleys.\n\n\nOLAPA, _Cheirodendron trigynum_ (Gaud.) Heller. Fig. 10. This tree\noccurs in several varieties. The variety _oblongum_ Sherff grows 30 feet\ntall around the cabins at Paliku, also at Ulupalakua. The variety\n_mauiense_ Levl. common at Olinda, also grows in Kaupo Gap. The genus is\nHawaiian but has a lone representative in the Marquesas. It is\nwidespread in deep soils in all of the islands. The leaves are compound\nwith 3 or 5 leaflets which, at Paliku, have reddish petioles. The\npanicles of small, green flowers are followed by black drupes. The\nleaves, bark, and fruit are said to have yielded a blue dye for staining\ntapa.\n\n\n'OHELO, _Vaccinium reticulatum_ Smith. Fig. 11. Hikers in the crater are\ngrateful for the widespread ohelo bushes that yield pleasant fruits to\nbe nibbled along the way. In areas rich in moisture, like Koolau Gap,\nlarge, maroon bell-shaped flowers droop from the axels of the leaves.\nThe berries found in the eastern end of the crater appear to be largest.\nThe bearing season appears at its height in mid-autumn. The plants along\nthe Halemauu Trail constitute a distinct species, _V. berberidifolium_\nSkottsb.\n\n\nPUKIAWE, _Styphelia tameiameiae_ (Cham.) F. Muell. Fig. 12. A most\nabundant shrub, both inside and outside the crater, but near the top it\nis replaced by a trailing shrub that has been classified as _S.\ndouglasii_ (A. Gray) Hochr. The berries of this plant are white, pink,\nred, or mahogany brown; they are most abundant in winter, but some may\nbe seen on the shrub throughout the year.\n\n\nKOLEA, _Suttonia lessertiana_ (A.DC.) Mez; syn. _Rapanea lessertiana_\n(A.DC.) Degener and Hosaka. Fig. 13. This variable tree grows up to 50\nfeet tall as one of the common trees around Paliku cabins. The thick\nleaves with short petioles, crowded near the ends of thick branches,\nhave a beautiful roseate hue when young. The branches are studded with\nspurs on which grow small 5-parted flowers in clusters of three or more\nthat are followed by dark, purplish-red or black fruits up to \u00bc inch in\ndiameter, often so numerous that the branch is completely hidden.\nHawaiians made a red dye for tapa from the sap and bark. The crimson sap\nbleeds freely from a cut made deeply into the bark of a living tree.\n\n\nSELFHEAL, _Prunella vulgaris_ L., a common weed of Eurasian origin, is\nwidespread in rocky, scrub cover, and at Paliku. A dense cluster of\nsmall, lipped, blue to purple flowers appears on the end of each upright\nstem.\n\n\nPUA'AINAKA, _Stenogyne rotundifolia_ A. Gray. This endemic long-branched\nshrub of the Mint Family is found only on Haleakala. Within the crater\nand on upper slopes it is trailing and is relatively rare, being most\nabundant in Kaupo Gap. The attractive, pale purple flowers in whorls of\nsix are 1\u00bd inches long and are covered with silky, white hair. They\nappear in late summer. Outside the crater, _S. haliakalae_ Wawra is\nabundant in forests as a large, diffuse shrub that often forms a dense\nmat over surrounding shrubs. Another mint, _Stenogyne crenata_ A. Gray,\nwas collected by Skottsberg among shrubs on the south wall of the\ncrater.\n\n\nGROUNDCHERRY, _Cape Gooseberry_, POHA, _Physalis peruviana_ L. A South\nAmerican perennial herb, widely scattered throughout Hawaii, well-known\nfor its round, orange, many-seeded, husk-enclosed fruits that are edible\nraw or preserved. It grows extensively in Kaupo Gap. The large yellow\nflowers with brownish spots near the center appear from June to late\nfall in this area.\n\n\nPLANTAIN, LAUKAHI, _Plantago_ sp. Plantain is a hardy, cosmopolitan,\nstemless weed forming a rosette of broadly oval leaves, 1-10 inches\nlong, near the ground. The tiny flowers and seed capsules are borne as\ncylindrical heads at the ends of tall stalks. The plant is widespread\nalong the side of the road as well as within the crater. Of several\nhundred species of _Plantago_, four or more are endemic to Hawaii. One\nof these, _P. princeps_ Cham. & Schl., is a shrub several feet high with\ntufts of long narrow leaves at the ends of the branches. It grows on\ncliffs at Kaupo Gap. Other plantains with thick leaves, silky\nunderneath, creep on the ground in Koolau Gap.\n\n\nKUKAENENE, _Coprosma ernodioides_ A. Gray. Fig. 15. A common woody shrub\nwith long trailing branches that send up short, erect, densely foliose\nbranchlets at each node. The awl-shaped leaves are rigid and dark-green.\nThe fruits are shiny black drupes which are a favorite food of the\nnative goose, _nene_.\n\n\nPILO, _Coprosma montana_ Hillebr. Fig. 14. One of the commonest shrubs\nthroughout the crater and from Park Headquarters to 9,000 feet outside\nthe crater. It is a small tree up to 20 feet tall in Kaupo Gap. As a\nshrub the ascending tips look like jets shot up from densely foliose\nbranchlets. The alternate, small, thick leaves have conspicuous nerves\nimpressed on the upper face. Below each pair of leaves is a pair of\ntriangular bracts, stipules, with cilia on the upper border. The\ngreenish, inconspicuous flowers are followed by showy, bright orange,\nyellow, or red fruits which make the plant a subject attractive to color\nphotographers in fall.\n\n\nMANONO, _Gouldia terminalis_ (H. & A.) Hillebr. A shrub or small tree\ngrowing on the talus above the Paliku cabins. It has shiny, opposite\nleaves and dense terminal clusters of greenish, four-lobed, cup-shaped\nflowers that are followed by small black berries. It blooms in late\nsummer. The genus is one of three in the Coffee Family that are endemic\nto Hawaii.\n\n\nCATCHFLY, _Silene struthioloides_ A. Gray. Fig. 16. A plant that is\ntypical only of arid Cinders and ash on East Maui and on the island of\nHawaii. With the silversword as its companion in Haleakala Crater the\nplants are found at the bases of barren cones. They show neat adaptation\nto their stark home. The Haleakala plants, as illustrated, are low and\ncompact, but those growing at Kilauea Crater bear only a few awl-shaped\nleaves and resemble dead twigs. The thick tap roots are sweet and\nedible. About 250 species belong to this genus, a member of the Pink or\nCarnation Family. A well-known introduced weed, the English catchfly,\n_Silene anglica_ L., was reported by Degener at 10,000 feet on\nHaleakala.\n\n\n'OHA, _Labelia grayana_ E. Wimm. A low plant with woody trailing stems\nwith knobby leaf scars and ending with a crowded arrangement of silvery,\nlinear leaves, 4-8 inches long and crowned with densely flowered\nracemes, 6-15 inches long. The flowers are lilac-blue with a satiny\nsheen. The plant is not uncommon on wet _pali_ from 5,000-7,000 feet at\nPaliku, Kaupo and Koolau Gaps, and in the northwestern end of the\ncrater. It is a glorious plant worth hunting for and going miles to see.\n\n\nNAUPAKA. _Scaevola chamissoniana_ Gaud. This shrub was noted only on the\neast side of Kaupo Gap. This is a varying species found up to the\n6,000-foot elevation. It is not common and blooms in summer. The white\nflowers with purplish streaks are slit to the base on the upper side.\nThey look like flower-halves rather than complete corollas. There are\nseveral legends about the peculiar flower, each dealing with lovers\nseparated from each other. In a song composed about it, the lovers were\nforceably parted, so the girl divided a perfect corolla, giving one half\nto her lover while keeping the other half herself. One of the lovers\ncarried the flower to the sea, _naupaka kahakai_, the other to the\nmountain, _naupaka kuahiwi_, where the plants are found today.\n\n\nMAUI WORMWOOD, _Artemisia mauiensis_ (A. Gray) Skottsb. Fig. 17. Typical\nof Maui and found only on Haleakala, this hoary ornamental shrub,\nusually 2-3 feet high, perches on cliffs usually above the reach of man.\nIt has a densely-branched crown with silvery leaves that are aromatic\nand bitter. The leaves are composed of thin segments that are covered\nwith a mat of cottony hair, giving the plant a silvery appearance. The\nsmall orange flowers are borne in terminal panicles.\n\nThe Hawaiians call the wormwood AHINAHINA, applied also to silversword,\ngeranium, and other gray plants. The basic word refers to the color of\nsilvery-gray hair, the connection being obvious. Hawaiians use the\npounded leaves to relieve asthma. The genus is large, having some 250\nspecies that are generally found in arid regions. The sagebrush of the\nwestern states, _A. tridentata_ Nutt., is the best known to most park\nvisitors.\n\n\nKO'OKO'OLAU, _Bidens_ sp. Like _Artemisia_, the genus is a huge one with\nover 200 species and belongs to the Composite Family which includes\ndandelions, daisies, and sunflowers. E. E. Sherff of the Chicago Museum\nof Natural History, a specialist on the genus, lists sixty species\nnative to Hawaii. Native KO'OKO'OLAU are shrubby and often of great\nbeauty. This is true of _B. campylotheca pentamera_ Sherff which sprawls\nover the vegetation in Koolau Gap. It has fern-like leaves and large,\npretty, yellowish flower-heads. Hawaiians use the tips of young plants\nfor tea, often in preference over imported tea.\n\nBesides the native varieties, three introduced species grow in the\nislands, including beggar ticks or Spanish needles, _B. pilosa_ L. It is\na nuisance, as the three-pronged fruits that give it the common name\nreadily attach themselves to clothing as well as to fur of passing\nanimals.\n\n\nKUPAOA, NA'ENA'E. Fig. 18, 19. Several kinds of composite shrubs are\ncalled by these names, both of which mean fragrance or perfume. They\nwere used for scenting tapa. They belong to the endemic genera\n_Dubautia_ and _Railliardia_, both of which have species found in the\npark. _Dubautia plantagiena_ var. _platyphylla_ Hillebr. Gaud., a shrub\nat 6,000 feet in Kaupo and Koolau Gaps, has linear leaves 4-8 inches\nlong, with 7-13 conspicuous nerves. It is a small tree below Nianiau\nCrater. It is a handsome sight when in flower; the flower-heads are\nyellow. In general appearance it is much like that of _Railliardia\nplatyphylla_ A. Gray which grows in cinders and ash, mostly inside the\ncrater. At 8,000 feet, _R. platyphylla_ becomes a straggling shrub. The\ncommonest member of this group, _Railliardia menziesii_ A. Gray, is a\nshrub in the crater and on the rim from 8,000-10,000 feet. Between 6,000\nand 7,000 feet it is a tree up to 20 feet tall. The dark green, pointed,\nlinear, fleshy leaves are ranked in vertical rows of four on upright\nstems and branches. Its dark yellow flower-heads are borne in panicles.\n_R. scabra_ DC., found in Kaupo Gap and on Leleiwi Pali, does not have\nthe regular leaf arrangement.\n\n\nPAMAKANI-HAOLE, _Eupatorium glandulosum_ HBK. _Eupatorium_ is another\nhuge genus of the Composite Family with several hundred species, mostly\nfrom tropical America. Five species have been introduced into Hawaii of\nwhich two are bad pests. _E. glandulosum_, a native of Mexico, spread\nrapidly on Maui, crowding out desirable plants and making pasturelands\nworthless. A parasitic insect, _Procecidochares utilis_ Stone, was\nintroduced in 1944 to combat it. This insect belongs to the order\nDIPTERA, the flies, gnats, midges, and mosquitoes, and to the family\nTRYPETIDAE, that includes the Mediterranean fruitfly and the common\n\"apple-worm\" which is actually the larva of a fly. The trypetids infest\nliving plants, frequently causing galls, and have piercing ovipositors,\noften prominent, with which females deposit eggs beneath the skin of\ntheir host.\n\nIt is not expected that the studied introduction of a parasite will\nresult in the extermination of a host, but rather that it will check\nunbridled increase and spread. The method is termed \"biological\ncontrol.\" It has been successfully adopted against several menaces, such\nas cactus, lantana, and a fern-weevil, _Syragrius fulvitarsis_ Pascoe,\nthat kills amaumau ferns in the Kilauea Crater area.\n\nPamakani abound throughout the crater, even clinging as tiny starvelings\nin small cracks in cliffs, like those along Halemauu Trail. Every plant\nshows swellings in which the little maggots live, and exit holes through\nwhich the new adults emerge. Many plants bear only few leaves and fight\ntenaciously for survival. Big plants may be seen along Kaupo Trail.\n_Pamakani_ means _wind-blown_, in reference to the method of seed\ndispersal.\n\n\nHAIRY CAT'S-EAR, \"Dandelion,\" _Hypochoeris radicata_ L. A common\ncomposite, native to the Mediterranean, found in abundance throughout\nthe park. Its narrow leaves with yellow hairs form flat rosettes. A\nbranching, leafless stalk up to a foot or more tall bears yellow\nflower-heads, an inch in diameter, that resemble the well-known\ndandelion, _Taraxacum officinale_ Weber, by which common name many call\nthe cat's-ear. The hairless, _H. glabra_ L. is a smaller plant with\nsmooth leaves and flower-heads \u00bc inch in diameter. The cat's-ear is a\nfavorite food of the Hawaiian goose, _nene_. _Gosmer_ is a common name\nused locally.\n\n\nWOOD GROUNDSEL, _Senecio sylvaticus_ L., a native of Europe, is a\nbranching, weedy herb, 1-2 feet high, abundant along the foot of\nKalahaku Pali. It has irregularly lobed leaves and small yellow flowers\nin a tight flower head, 1/3 inch long and \u00bd inch in diameter.\n\n\nTETRAMALOPIUM. Fig. 20, illustration p. 53. This endemic genus has a\ndozen species, two of which are a pride of Haleakala. The small leaves\nare narrow and crowded at branch ends. The showy flowerheads of white,\npinkish, or lavender ray florets surround a disk of purplish central\nflorets. _T. humile_ (A. Gray) Hillebr. is found inside and outside the\ncrater between 6,000-9,000 feet. It is a small, low, shrubby plant with\nnarrow, spoon-shaped leaves quite covered with sticky, curly hair. The\nplant growing in cracks between rocks at the very summit is stiffer and\nconsiderably different.\n\n\nSILVERSWORD, AHINAHINA, _Argyroxiphium sandwicense_ DC. Illustrations on\ncover and pages iv, 47. As famous as the crater itself, and almost as\nwell-known, the silversword is regarded as typical of Haleakala,\nalthough its natural range embraces Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea, and Hualalai\nfrom 7,000 to 12,000 feet. A lustrous silvery down thickly covers all\nleaves and makes the plant exceedingly beautiful. It is highly evolved\nto withstand the extreme dryness of cinder cones and the intense\nsunlight of lofty elevation. Surprising to most visitors on first\nacquaintance is the fact that it bears no relationship to the yucca of\nthe Lily Family, but belongs to the COMPOSITAE along with sunflowers,\nasters, and chrysanthemums. Like _Dubautia_ and _Railliardia_, it has no\nclose relatives outside of the islands. _Wilkesia_, endemic to Kauai, is\nso closely similar that some authorities class it in the genus\n_Argyroxphium_.\n\nThe Haleakala silversword has a short, simple, woody stem 2-3 inches in\ndiameter crowded with thick, dagger-like leaves arranged spirally around\nit. After growth from 7 to as much as 20 years, a foliose raceme 3-8\nfeet high develops on which 100-500 flower-heads nod. Each has a central\ndisk of hundreds of bright yellow florets surrounded by a score of short\nreddish-purple ray florets. The flowering season is from June through\nOctober. The whole plant dies after flowering but once.\n\nThe greensword, _A. virescens_ Hillebr., a much rarer plant with green\nleaves, once grew from 6,000 to 9,000 feet. Today it has all but\nvanished; a few plants are still to be found in Koolau Gap just outside\nthe park, and between rocks on the edges of cliffs at Kaupo Gap.\n\nVisitors once gathered specimens of silversword as evidence that they\nhad been up the mountain, even as the mountaineer gathers edelweiss in\nSwitzerland. Thoughtless people uprooted the silvery globes merely to\nwatch them tumble down the slopes. Goats eat the growing heart of the\nplant. Grazing stock are incompatible with its existence. It has many\ninsect parasites (see The Insect Life). All of these, singly and in\ncombination, threaten the existence of the species.\n\nThe outer slopes of the mountain had thousands of silverswords according\nto early accounts, while today they are rare. In the crater, some of the\ncones were so thickly covered that they appeared to be bathed in\nmoonlight. Except for strong, enlightened action, this beautiful plant\nmight have completely vanished from the mountain.\n\n\n\n\n SUMMARY LISTS\n\n\nThe following are incomplete lists of plants reported at various places\nwithin the park. They may serve as the start or a check for those\nwishing to know something of the plants in a certain area. The names\ngiven are those most commonly used locally or those used to head the\ncorresponding sections above.\n\nCOMMONEST SHRUBS ALONG THE HIGHWAY above Headquarters. Sandalwood,\nmamane, geranium (_N. tridens_), aalii, ohia, ohelo, pukiawe, mountain\npilo, kupaoa.\n\nWIDESPREAD below 8,500 feet. _Stereocaulon_ lichen (mostly on barren\nlava), pellucid polypody, maidenhair spleenwort, cliffbrake, swordfern,\nbracken, sedge (_Gahnia_), sheep sorrel or dock; ulei, mamane, aalii,\ntarweed, ohia, evening primrose, ohelo, pukiawe, selfheal, plantain,\nkukaenene, mountain pilo, kupaoa, pamakani, hairy cat's-ear, horseweed.\n\nSUMMIT FLORA (above 8,500 feet). Mountain pili (grass), trailing\npukiawe, _tetramalopium sp._, kupaoa, common dandelion.\n\nCRATER FLOOR on ash or barren lava. Mountain pili, sheep sorrel, ulei,\nmamane, bur clover, white clover, cranesbill, aalii, tarweed, ohia,\nevening primrose, ohelo, pukiawe, selfheal, common plantain, kukaenene,\nmountain pilo, catchfly, kupaoa, pamakani, hairy cat's-ear, Canadian\nhorseweed, _Tetramalopium humile_, silversword.\n\nKOOLAU GAP. Amaumau, rush, mauulaili, tree orchid, sandalwood, pawale,\nHawaiian buttercup, trailing _akala_, native strawberry, nohoanu,\napeape, highbush ohelo, trailing plantain, lobelia, wormwood, trailing\nkookoolau, greensword.\n\nPALIKU. Amaumau, ekaha, akaha akolea, twayblade, alaalawainui, hoawa,\nakala, kawau, olapa, kolea, manono, lobelia, naenae.\n\nKAUPO GAP. Rush, mauulaili, sandalwood, hoawa, puaainaka, poha, common\npotato (naturalized), Jerusalem cherry, tree plantain, lobelia, naupaka,\n_Dubautia sp._, _Railliardia scabra_.\n\n [Illustration: Figure 1--SEDGE, _Gahnia_]\n\n [Illustration: Figure 2--HAWAIIAN ORCHID, _Liparis_]\n\n [Illustration: Figure 3--SANDALWOOD, _Santalum haleakalae_]\n\n [Illustration: Figure 4--MAMANE, _Sophora chrysophylla_]\n\n [Illustration: Figure 5--HAWAIIAN RASPBERRY, _Rubus hawaiiensis_]\n\n [Illustration: Figure 6--HINAHINA, _Geranium tridens_]\n\n [Illustration: Figure 7--NOHOANU, _Geranium (Neurophyllodes)\n arboreum_]\n\n [Illustration: Figure 8--AALII, Seed capsules, leaf detail]\n\n [Illustration: Figure 9--OHIA LEHUA, Twig with flower beginning to\n open]\n\n [Illustration: Figure 10--OLAPA]\n\n [Illustration: Figure 11--OHELO]\n\n [Illustration: Figure 12--PUKIAWE, Twig, flower magnified]\n\n [Illustration: Figure 13--KOLEA, showing fruit]\n\n [Illustration: Figure 14--MOUNTAIN PILO. Twig, fruits, leaf shapes,\n magnified flower and leaf showing veination]\n\n [Illustration: Figure 15--KUKAENENE, fruiting twig, male and female\n flowers]\n\n [Illustration: Figure 16--CATCHFLY, _Silene struthioloides_]\n\n [Illustration: Figure 17--MAUI WORMWOOD, leaves, magnified flowers]\n\n [Illustration: Figure 18--NAENAE, _Dubautia plantaginea_]\n\n [Illustration: Figure 19--KUPAOA, _Raillardia menziesii_]\n\n [Illustration: Figure 20--TETRAMALOPIUM]\n\n\n\n\n THE BIRDS AND MAMMALS\n\n\nIt is a general rule that, as among plants, numbers and species of birds\ndecrease as one goes up a mountain. It is true also that native Hawaiian\nbirds are to be found mostly in upland forests. Of the members of the\nendemic nectar-sipping family, DREPANIDAE, _'apapane_ and _'i'iwi_ may\nbe seen up to 8,500 feet. They are associated with ohia which give them\ntheir food. _'Amakihi_ are fond of the mamane blossoms, so it is not\nsurprising to find them widespread although not numerous in the park.\nFar rarer is the little Maui creeper, _'alauahio_, which finds insects\nand spiders for food in the bark of trunks and branches of trees and\nshrubs. It follows the latter up to the Alpine Zone.\n\nExcept for migrants and sea birds, other natives nowadays are absent.\nOccasionally an Hawaiian owl, _pueo_, has been seen flying over\ngrasslands near the park entrance and at Paliku. Tropic birds, _koa'e_,\noccasionally soar around the cliffs inside the crater. The dark-rumped\npetrel, _'ua'u_, a vanishing species, is heard at night back of Holua\nand Kapalaoa cabins, and at Leleiwi Overlook. This pigeon-sized bird of\nthe ocean nests in burrows 4-6 feet deep, at the bases of cliffs in the\ncrater. Both young and adults were formerly hunted, often with nets,\nbecause they were highly prized as food. Bird catching was an important\noccupation of Hawaiians; at times one stumbles upon the remains of\nshelter caves and campsites used by them in a lonely mountain vastness.\nExcept the period from early May to mid-August while it is away on its\nmigration to Alaska, the golden plover, _kolea_, is a most conspicuous\nbird inside and outside the crater.\n\nIntroduced birds are everywhere. The Japanese white-eye or _mejiro_ can\nbe found in vegetation up to the Alpine Zone. It is especially common at\nPaliku, the most rewarding bird area in the park. The Pekin nightingale\nor Japanese hill robin, _sochi-cho_, goes all the way to the summit. I\nobserved a pair at the structure on Red Hill, and picked up a dead one\nabove the elevation of the Observatory. They sing in the trees around\nPaliku. Linnets and skylarks are often seen or heard anywhere up to the\nAlpine Zone. Commoner at low elevations, a mockingbird appears\ninfrequently above Park Headquarters, and mynahs visit the inn grounds\nin summer. They also appear at Paliku. English sparrows may linger\naround the horse barns, as expected.\n\nThe most conspicuous and commonest Haleakala birds are introduced\ngame-birds. Ringnecked pheasants are flushed or heard up to 8,500 feet,\nwhile Chukar partridges are numerous from 7,500 to 10,000 feet. Both of\nthese are abundant in the crater. The Chukar, only a newcomer here, is\nalready definitely at home. California quail scurry from the road or\ntrail at elevations up to 7,500 feet. In 1958, 27 Erchel's francolin\nwere released just below the park line near the inn, but success of\ntheir establishment is still a question.\n\nThe bat was apparently the only mammal living in Hawaii at the time when\nPolynesian navigators first visited here. They carried the pig, dog, and\ntramp rat along with them on their voyages. After Cook, many mammals\nwere brought in, some of which readily reverted to a wild state. These\ninclude sheep, goats, cattle, horses, burros, dogs, cats, and mongooses.\n\nThe feral goat is the problem child of the Haleakala area. Often a\nbeautiful creature, with long, black, flowing hair, it soon exterminates\nsilversword, mamane, and desirable vegetation wherever it is left\nuncontrolled. Upon being forceably separated from its mother, the\nterrified kid quickly becomes tame and attaches itself as closely to the\nhuman associate as it did to its natural parent. Occasionally a stray\ndog that has reverted to the wild is seen in the park area. It is only a\nreminder of the days of the past century when packs roamed the side of\nthe mountain and harassed visitors with their ferocity. Joining their\nmembers were wild bullocks that also constituted a threat. These were\ninevitably mentioned in all journals of early visitors. In the wet\nforested areas below Koolau Gap, on the fringe of upper Kipahulu Valley,\nand along the rim at Waianapanapa, pigs flourish in bliss that is broken\nonly occasionally by a local hunter who seeks them just outside the\nboundary of the park.\n\n\n\n\n THE INSECT LIFE[21]\n\n\nHawaii National Park is rich in insect life although, as is typical of\ninsular areas, insects are much more sparse than in continental regions.\nMost of our insects are endemic species, i.e., are found only in these\nislands; many are very limited in distribution. For the most part the\nendemic insects are associated with the native plants. Most of our\ninsects are comparatively small and inconspicuous; nevertheless, a great\nmany are strange and unusual so that our fauna is particularly\ninteresting to the scientist. We have none of the larger, showy\nbutterflies and other insects which the visitor often expects to find\nhere. No noxious or harmful species are present in areas used by park\nvisitors, but the large blowflies which breed in goat carcasses in\nHaleakala Crater sometimes become a nuisance, due to their presence in\nlarge numbers. These are mainland species which have been accidentally\nintroduced into Hawaii and which are now restricted to the highland\nareas where the climate is temperate. With the exception of lice and\ndomestic flies, which were brought here by the Hawaiians themselves,\nHawaii was free of pestiferous insects before the arrival of the\nEuropeans.\n\nOne of the best known endemic Hawaiian insects is the butterfly named\nafter King Kamehameha, _Vanessa tameamea_, a highly colored relative of\nthe painted lady, the tortoise shells, and the red admiral butterflies\nof the mainland. This species is highly prized by amateur butterfly\ncollectors since it is found no place else in the world. Its colors are\norange, brown, and black. The female has small white spots in the apical\nportions of the front wings; these spots are rosy colored in the male.\nThe caterpillars, green or purplish, feed on the leaves of the _mamaki_.\nAdults are found in forests throughout the islands. They are attracted\nto the native hydrangea, _kanawao_, to the introduced thimbleberry, or\nto the sap exuding from _koa_ or _naio_. This butterfly is a strong\nflier, and ranges from the seacoast to the top of Haleakala. The female\nof _Hodegia apetala_, an endemic genus of only one described species, is\nan Hawaiian moth unable to fly.[22] The male is unknown. This jumping\ninsect, related to the bollworm, lives in bunch grass near the summit.\nThe narrow, pointed, reduced, ashen-brown wings are \u00bd inch long; the\nabdomen, about as long as the wings, is brownish gray.\n\nAs one walks over open patches at higher elevations a brown moth, 1\u00bd\ninches wide, rises readily before one. This is _Agrotis aulacias_ that\npossesses great powers of flight.[23] The genus of 27 species is related\nto army worms, cut-worms, and a host of agricultural pests. _Fletcherana\ninsularis_ is a geometrid moth (inch worm, measuring worm, or looper)\nfound in late spring high above the forest belt near the park entrance.\nThe insect is an inch wide, its color is white, speckled with black. The\ngenus of 5 species is confined to Hawaii.\n\n_Nesophrosyne haleakala_ is a mottled, gray-brown leafhopper, 1/8 inch\nlong; the head and front part of the thorax are yellowish. In the park\nit is found in _pilo_ and _ohelo_ at 8,500 or 9,000 feet. The genus is\nendemic and contains over 60 forms distributed throughout the islands.\n\nAn undesirable pest has publicized its presence high above the park\nentrance by leaving its name on two caves which early visitors found\nconvenient for shelter. Big Flea and Little Flea Caves often appear in\naccounts of early trips, but never without mention of the annoyance that\nwas caused by their permanent occupants. Of the 7 different kinds of\nfleas recorded for Hawaii, only the so-called cat flea (_Ctenocephalides\nfelis_) annoys people to any extent. Several species of fleas infest the\nHawaiian rat and were presumably brought in when this rodent arrived\nwith the earliest Polynesian immigrants.\n\nBecause the beautiful silversword has no very close relatives, which\nmeans that its ancestors arrived in Hawaii in earliest time, any species\nof insects associated solely with it as a host plant draws particular\ninterest. Moreover, since the survival of silverswords is precarious in\nthis day of rapid change, all agents that threaten must be carefully\nscrutinized. Silverswords are specific hosts to a half dozen or more\nendemic species of insects.[24] Among Lepidoptera, the family of moths\nand butterflies, the larvae of a pyralid moth, _Rhynchephestia\nrhabdotus_, feeds in the flower-heads, destroying the seeds.\nCaterpillars of a noctuid, _Euxoa epicremma_, have been collected\nbeneath plants. The caterpillars of a tineid moth have been found among\ndead leaves. Of the DIPTERA, great numbers of yellow maggots of a gray\nfly, _Tephritis cratericola_, feed on the seeds and prevent their\ndevelopment. The larvae of one of the Coleoptera, a beetle described as\n_Aescheithmysus terryi_, feeds apparently only on old and dead stems. A\nrelative, _A. swezeyi_, similarly feeds on _Railliardia_. Great members\nof a leaf-hopper, _Iburnia argyroxiphii_, suck the sap of Haleakala\nsilverswords. It is preyed upon by a wasp, _Polynema sp._, so tiny that\nthe naked eye can hardly see it. The wasp lays its egg in the egg of the\nhopper. The larval wasp, upon hatching, feeds on the contents of the\nhopper egg, pupates within it, and emerges from it.\n\nThe Paliku area is very rich in insect life; many hundreds of species\nhave been recorded from here and many are apparently very restricted in\ndistribution and are known only from this locality. Species of\npomace-flies (DROSOPHILIDAE) and the long-legged flies (DOLICHOPODIDAE)\nare especially prevalent at Paliku. Two species of the native genus\n_Idiomyia_ are the largest members of DROSOPHILIDAE found any place in\nthe world; they measure approximately 7 mm. in length. Two species of\nflightless Neuroptera (_Pseudopsectra cookeorum_ and _lobipennis_) occur\non the vegetation (_Dubautia_, _Metrosideros_, and _Cyanea_) in\nHaleakala; these represent one of the strangest entomological\ncuriosities of the world.\n\nOver five thousand species of insects have been recorded from the\nHawaiian Islands and it is probable that several thousand more species\nremain to be described. In the past our knowledge of the insects was\nbased largely upon the monumental study, \"Fauna Hawaiiensis,\"[25]\npublished by a group of institutions including the British Museum\n(Natural History) and the Bernice P. Bishop Museum. A new faunistic\nstudy is now under way titled \"Insects of Hawaii.\"[26] This is an\nextremely valuable reference work and is indispensable to anyone\nstudying Hawaiian insects. It gives a complete review of the insects\nfrom the lowest orders through the butterflies and larger moths. Two\nvolumes on the DIPTERA are now in press. Volume one gives a most\ncomprehensive account of the mode of dispersal of our endemic fauna and\nflora to these islands. It is estimated that the 3,722 known endemic\ninsects developed from approximately 250 ancestral species.\n\n\n\n\n HAWAIIAN WORDS AND PLACE NAMES\n\n\nTHE HAMZA. During the centuries, changes occur in dialects. Hawaiian is\none of the dialects of the Polynesian language. A striking change in\nHawaiian is the dropping of the letter _k_ that once appeared in some\nwords. But instead of complete discard of the sound, its former\nexistence is revealed as a little catch in the throat, called a glottal\nstop. This is represented in print by a mark (') called _hamza_. The\nomission of this mark can spell a word of entirely different meaning.\nYet, without explanation, the hamza can be more bewildering than helpful\nto those unfamiliar with Hawaiian. Its use in this book therefore has\nbeen limited to this section and to the section on plants, because it is\nneeded if correct pronunciation is attempted. And who fails to want to\ntry Hawaiian on his tongue!\n\n These brief, literal interpretations are not mentioned in the text.\n Principal authorities are K. E. Emory and M. K. Pukui.\n\nAHU--Pile, cairn, altar, shrine. Often a small or large pile of stones\nerected as a trailmark or landmark. _Ahu_ were sometimes put up by\npassing parties as monuments or evidence that they had been there, even\nas mountain climbers do to this day. To be assured of a safe journey, an\n_ahu_ of three stones was made as tribute to the god of the locality.\n\nALII--_Ali'i_, chief, chiefess, sovereign, ruler. One of the upper\nclass.\n\nHALALII--_Hala-li'i_, fun-making, from the name of a traditional chief\nof Ni'ihau.\n\nHALEAKALA--_Hale-a-ka-la_ is usually interpreted as \"house of the sun,\"\na simple translation of the Hawaiian name given us for the mountain. It\nassumes vague reference to the Maui legend. An old explanation converted\nthe translation to \"house built by the sun.\" Rev. A. O. Forbes[27] says\nthat the name is a corruption of _Alehe-ka-la_, \"snarer of the sun,\" in\nreference to Maui's deeds. Still another version would have it\n_Ahale-ka-la_, to be interpreted as \"rays of the sun.\"\n\nHALEMAUU--_Hale mau'u_ is grass hut; _hale ma'u'u_ signifies damp house.\n\nHANA--Bay or valley, when used in a place name.\n\nHANAKAUHI--_Hana-ka-uhi_, the mist-maker; yam valley.\n\nHAOLE--A foreigner, one of foreign extraction; today, usually in\nreference to a Caucasian; adj., foreign.\n\nHEIAU--Pre-christian place of worship, hence, usually translated temple.\nThis was often a stone platform or an earth terrace.\n\nHOLUA--A course used for the ancient royal sport of sliding down steep\nslopes; also the sled itself.\n\nHONOKAHUA--_Hono-ka-hua_, joined foundation.\n\nIAO--_'I-ao_, high; into the clouds.\n\nKAHULUI--_Ka-hului_, a sea for drag-net fishing.\n\nKALAHAKU--The proclamation of the Lord.\n\nKALAPAWILI--_Ka-lapa-wili_, winding or twisting ridge.\n\nKALUAAWA--_Ka-lua-'awa_, the _'awa_ pit. _'Awa_ or _kawa_ is the\nwell-known traditional drink of Polynesia made from _Piper methysticum_.\n\nKALUAIKI--_Ka-lua-iki_, small pit or crater.\n\nKALUANUI--_Ka-lua-nui_, large pit or crater.\n\nKALUA O KA OO--_Ka lua o ka 'o'o_, the pit of the _'o'o_. The _'o'o_,\nnow extinct, was an endemic, black, nectar-sipping bird. It had tufts of\nyellow feathers under each wing and at the base of the tail, which were\nused in featherwork.\n\nKALUA O UMI--Umi's Cave.\n\nKAMOALII--_Ka moa li'i_, the little chicken.\n\nKA MOA O PELE--Pele's chickens or chicken coop.\n\nKANAKA--(_Haw. pl. kanaka_; _Eng. pl. kanakas_) human being, person,\nman.\n\nKAPA--Tapa, a cloth made from the bark of _mamaki_ or _wauke_; formerly,\nclothes of any kind; bedclothes.\n\nKAPALAOA--_Ka palaoa_, the _palaoa_ was a highly-prized pendant of\nwhale-tooth ivory, a symbol of royalty over the theft of which wars were\nwaged.\n\nKAUPO--_Kau po_, to land at night. A variety of banana is given this\nname, probably after the place name.\n\nKAWILINAU--_Ka wili nau_, literally, the twist of pain. This is the\nHawaiian place name for Bottomless Pit.\n\nKEAHUOKAHOLO--_Ke ahu o ka holo_, a heap resulting from a landslide.\n\nKEANAE--_Ke 'anae_, the large mullet.\n\nKEONEHEEHEE--_Ke one he'ehe'e_, the sliding sands.\n\nKIHEI--Shoulder covering; a rectangular fine mat or tapa used as a\nmantle.\n\nKIPAHULU--Worn-out soil.\n\nKOLEKOLE--Bright red, blood red.\n\nKOOLAU--_Ko'olau_, windward side.\n\nKUIKI--_Ku iki_, a moment's stop, a short halt.\n\nKUMUILIAHI--_Kumu 'iliahi_, sandalwood trunk.\n\nLAUULU--_Lau 'ulu_, leaf of breadfruit tree.\n\nLELEIWI--Carved figure on the bowsprit of a canoe or ship.\n\nLILINOI--Goddess of Haleakala.\n\nMAKAWAO--_Maka wao_, forest region.\n\nMAUI--Contrary to popular belief and despite the similar spelling, the\nisland does not bear the name of the demigod. The name of the island is\npronounced mow-ee. This almost rhymes with an enthusiastic \"WOWIE!\"\nespecially as a Virginian might pronounce it. The _au_ must be treated\nin the fashion for Hawaiian dipthongs, that is, the crisp vowels are\nmore loosely connected than in the English, and a slight accent is\nimposed on the leading one. The demigod's name has three syllables, with\naccent on the second, i.e., the _u_. Thus, Ma-u'-i.\n\nMAUNA--Mountain.\n\nMAUNA HINA--Gray mountain.\n\nMOI--_Mo'i_(A 19th Century word), King, queen, sovereign.\n\nNAMANA O KE AKUA--_Na mana o ke akua_, the miraculous power, _mana_, of\nDeity, gods, or spirits.\n\nNA PIKO HANA--The hiding place for navel cords.\n\nNIANIAU--_Ni'ani'au_, the sword fern.\n\nOILI PUU--_'O'ili pu'u_, hill appearing, hill shot out.\n\nPALIKU--_Pali ku_, upright cliff.\n\nPOHAKU PALAHA--Broad stone; wide stone.\n\nPUKALANI--_Puka lani_, heavenly entrance, chief's doorway.\n\nPUU--_Pu'u_, hill. This is contracted in some names to _pu_.\n\nPUU HELE--_Pu'u hele_, moving hill.\n\nPUU KAUAUA--_Pu'u ka uaua_, the stubborn hill; the tough hill.\n\nPUU KUMU--_Pu'u kumu_, stump hill.\n\nPUU MAILE--_Maile_ is a fragrant vine, _Alyxia oliviformis_, used and\nloved like the laurel of Europe.\n\nPUU MANEONEO--_Pu'u mane'one'o_, itching hill. _Maneoneo_ means\n_barren_.\n\nPUU NAUE--_Pu'u naue_, trembling hill; loose or insecure hill.\n\nPUU NOLE--Grumbling hill.\n\nWAIALE--_Wai'ale_, rippling water.\n\nWAI ANAPANAPA--_Wai 'anapanapa_, sparkling water.\n\nWAIHOI--_Wai ho'i_, water that returned.\n\nWAIKAU--_Wai kau_, water on a high place.\n\nWAIKEKEEHIA--_Keke'ehia_ means to twist and wind like a rivulet or\nstream, hence, the name is interpreted as crooked waters.\n\nWAILUKU--_Wai luku_, water of destruction.\n\n\n\n\n HUI O AHINAHINA\n\n\nThe exclusive Society of the Silversword (Hui o Ahinahina) invites you\nto become a member if you have visited the summit or the crater of\nHaleakala. Only one class of membership. Life: one dollar! By joining\nyou can help scientific study, interpretation, and display exhibits of\nthe Park. Exchange your dollar at the Park or at the office of\nSilversword Inn for a silvery, engraved certificate, suitable for\nframing. With pride you can hand it down to your grandchildren, a\nsouvenir of Haleakala.\n\n\n\n\n ADDITIONAL HELP\n\n\nThe following publications contain information on the two sections of\nHawaii National Park. They may be purchased at either Park\nAdministration Office, at Silversword Inn, Haleakala, and at the Volcano\nHouse at Kilauea.\n\n_Volcanoes of Hawaii National Park._ (pamphlet) by Gordon A. MacDonald\nand Douglas H. Hubbard.\n\n Hawaii Natural History Association, 1951. 50\u00a2\n\n_Ferns of Hawaii National Park._ (pamphlet) by Douglas H. Hubbard.\n\n Hawaii Natural History Association, 1952. 50\u00a2\n\n_Trailside Plants of Hawaii National Park._ (pamphlet) by Douglas H.\nHubbard and Vernon R. Bender, Jr. Hawaii Natural History Association,\n1960.\n\n_Plants of Hawaii National Park._ By Otto Degener, 1945. $4.00\n\n Illustrative of Plants and Customs of the South Seas.\n\n_The Land of Pele._ (pamphlet) by Nash Castro.\n\n A historical sketch of Hawaii National Park.\n Hilo Tribune Herald, Ltd., 1953. 85\u00a2\n\n\n\n\nCartons, cigarette butts, and other trash do not add to your enjoyment\nof the park. You can easily dispose of these so that they cannot become\nobnoxious to you and those who come after you. With the number of\nvisitors increasing each year, you can help protect and preserve the\nnatural scene by placing all paper and other refuse in containers\nprovided for this purpose and by refraining from picking or breaking\nflowers, plants, and natural specimens. _Won't you do your share?_ THANK\nYOU.\n\n\n\n\n MILEAGES\n\n\n Roads\n Park Boundary to: Miles\n Silversword Inn 1.0\n Hosmer Grove 1.5\n Park Headquarters 2.0\n Halemauu Trail 5.6\n Leleiwi Overlook 8.4\n Kalahaku Overlook 10.1\n Observatory 12.1\n Red Hill (Summit) 12.8\n CAA Station 13.8\n Halemauu Trail\n Silversword Inn to: Miles\n Halemauu Trail Junction 2.9\n Holua Visitor Cabin 5.9\n Haleakala Park Road to:\n Holua Visitor Cabin 3.9\n Holua Visitor Cabin to:\n Silversword Loop .9\n Bottomless Pit 2.3\n Bubble Cave 3.3\n Kapalaoa Visitor Cabin 3.8\n Paliku Visitor Cabin 6.3\n Kaupo Village 14.1\n Sliding Sands Trail\n Observatory to: Miles\n Holua Visitor Cabin 7.4\n Kapalaoa Visitor Cabin 5.8\n Bubble Cave 6.5\n Paliku Visitor Cabin 9.8\n Kaupo Village 17.5\n Miscellaneous Mileages:\n Holua Visitor Cabin to 3.8 Miles\n Kapalaoa Visitor Cabin\n Kapalaoa Visitor Cabin to 4.0\n Paliku Visitor Cabin\n Paliku Visitor Cabin to Holua 6.3\n Visitor Cabin (Direct Route\n via Halemauu Trail)\n White Hill 0.2\n Crater Overlook Trail 350 Feet\n\n\n\n\n A FEW STATISTICS\n\n\n Area of the Crater 19 Square miles\n Circumference of the Crater 20 Miles\n Extreme length of the Crater 7\u00bd Miles\n Extreme width of the Crater 2\u00bd Miles\n Elevation of the summit of Red Hill 10,005 Feet\n Elevation of Puu o Maui 8,133 Feet\n Elevation of Park Boundary, Kaupo Trail 3,847 Feet\n Elevation of Park Boundary, Koolau Gap 6,450 Feet\n Area of the Haleakala Section, Hawaii National Park 26.7 Square miles\n\n\n\n\n Footnotes\n\n\n[1]Emory, Kenneth P., An Archaeological Survey of Haleakala, Bernice P.\n Bishop Museum, Occasional Papers, vol. VII, No. 11. 1921.\n\n[2]Ellis, William, A Narrative of a Tour Through Hawaii, or Owhyhee;\n with remarks on the History, Traditions, Manners, Customs and\n Language of the Inhabitants of the Sandwich Islands, London 1825.\n\n[3]\"Voyages of Discovery of Captain James Cook,\" vol. II, page 958. Ward\n Luck, Bowden & Co., London.\n\n[4]L. A. Milet-Mureau, ed., \"Voyage de la Perouse Autour du Monde\"\n (Paris, an V) II, 110-129.\n\n[5]\"Honolulu; Sketches of the Life, Social, Political, and Religious in\n the Hawaiian Islands from 1828 to 1861,\" Laura Fish Judd; Honolulu,\n 1880.\n\n[6]THE MISSIONARY HERALD, v. XXV, August 1829, No. 8, pp. 246-251 (no\n author).\n\n[7]Narrative of the United States Exploring Expedition during the Years\n 1838, 1839, 1840, 1941, 1942. Charles Wilkes. U.S.N. v. IV, 1845,\n pp. 252-256.\n\n[8]Damon, S. C., Ascent of Haleakala, The Friend, vol. 5, pp. 116-117,\n 1847.\n\n[9]Bates, Geo., Sandwich Island Notes, pp. 116-117, New York, 1854.\n\n[10]Wilkes, Chas., Narrative of the U. S. Exploring Expedition, vol. 4,\n p. 254, 1845.\n\n[11]Dana, J. D., U. S. Exploring Expedition 1838-42, vol. 10, Geology,\n p. 228, 1849.\n\n[12]W. D. Alexander, On the Crater of Haleakala, Island of Maui,\n Hawaiian Group. Am. Jour. Sci. 2nd ser., vol. 49, No. 145, P. 48,\n Jan. 1870.\n\n[13]Dutton, C. E., Hawaiian Volcanoes, U. S. Geol. Survey, 4th ann.\n rept., pp. 81-219, 1874.\n\n[14]Dana, J. D., Characteristics of Volcanoes, New York, 1891, pp.\n 277-278.\n\n[15]Daly, R. A., Igneous Rocks and the Depths of the Earth, p. 171, New\n York, 1933.\n\n[16]Cross, Whitman, Lavas of Hawaii and their Relations: U. S. Geol.\n Survey Prof. Paper 88, p. 25, 1915.\n\n[17]Powers, Sidney. Geol. Soc. America Bull., vol. 28, p. 512, 1925.\n\n[18]Stearns, H. T., Origin of Haleakala Crater, Maui, Hawaii: Geol. Soc.\n America Bull., vol. 53, pp. 1-14, 1942.\n\n[19]Degener, O., Plants of Hawaii National Park, p. 101; Flora\n Hawaiiensis, Family 68, 1946.\n\n[20]Degener, O., Plants of Hawaii National Park, pp. 142-148.\n\n[21]Basic data for this section prepared under the supervision of D.\n Elmo Hardy, Entomologist, University of Hawaii, to whom grateful\n acknowledgement is made.\n\n[22]Perkins, R. C. L., Ent. Monthly Magazine, 32:195, 1896.\n\n[23]Myrick, E., Fauna Hawaiiensis, vol. 1, p. 145, 1899.\n\n[24]Swezey, O. H. and Degener, Otto. Insect fauna of the silversword and\n greensword. Proc. Haw. Ent. Soc., 7(1): 183-195, 1928.\n\n[25]Fauna Hawaiiensis; being the Land Fauna of the Hawaiian Islands.\n Edited by David Sharp. Vols. I-III. Cambridge, England. 1899-1913.\n\n[26]Zimmerman, Elwood C. Insects of Hawaii. Vols. 1-3, 1948-1959. Univ.\n of Hawaii Press, Honolulu.\n\n[27]Rev. A. O. Forbes, Hawaiian Almanac and Annual for 1881, p. 59,\n Thos. G. Thrum, editor, Honolulu.\n\n\n [Illustration: Silversword in bloom]\n\n\n\n\n Transcriber's Notes\n\n\n--Silently corrected a few typos.\n\n--Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook\n is public-domain in the country of publication.\n\n--In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by\n _underscores_.","title":"Hawaii National Park: A Guide for the Haleakala Section, Island of Maui, Hawaii","tradition":"myth-cosmogony","translated_text":null,"word_count":26045}