{"collection":"myth-cosmogony","full_text_available":true,"graph_url":"https://unchartedknowledge.5gfusion.net/v2/api/page/gutenberg_59099/graph","html_url":"https://unchartedknowledge.5gfusion.net/v2/page/gutenberg_59099","id":"gutenberg_59099","license":"Public Domain (US)","rights_basis":"gutenberg_metadata_copyright_false","source":"gutenberg","source_url":"https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/59099","summary":null,"tags":["Category: History - American","Category: Mythology, Legends & Folklore","Eureka Springs (Ark.) -- History"],"text":"Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed\nProofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n                        The Eureka Springs Story\n\n\n                                   BY\n                          Otto Ernest Rayburn\n\n\n                        DIAMOND JUBILEE EDITION\n                                  1954\n\n\n                    Drawings by Gloria Morgan Bailey\n\n\n                          Original Printing by\n                          THE TIMES-ECHO PRESS\n                        Eureka Springs, Arkansas\n\n\n                       Second Printing, 1982, by\n                         Wheeler Printing, Inc.\n                        Eureka Springs, Arkansas\n\n\n                              To my friend\n                              SAM A. LEATH\n                     who has served Eureka Springs\n                         as guide and historian\n                            for more than a\n                             half century.\n\n\n\n\n                                   I\n                  LEGENDS OF THE MAGIC HEALING SPRINGS\n\n\nLegendary lore concerning the visitation of northern Indian tribes to\nwhat is now Eureka Springs, Arkansas is badly mixed and it is difficult\nto separate truth from fiction. It is difficult to prove the\nauthenticity of a legend. The stories we hear may have original pedigree\nor they may be mere fabrications by imaginative writers. In history, we\nhave something to tie to, but this is not always the case with\ntraditional lore that is handed down by word of mouth from generation to\ngeneration. It may be true or it may be a hoax. Tribal lore from the\nIndians themselves is usually accepted as authentic for the redman was\nnoted for his veracity and had the habit of repeating the tale without\nvariation, but in recent years numerous legends have been \"cooked up\" by\nwhite men and passed off as legitimate tradition. Stories are told that\nthe Indians never heard of. The reliable legends are those that come\nfrom the Indians themselves, properly documented.\n\nThere are at least three legends of visits of redmen to the \"Magic\nHealing Springs,\" as they called them, before white men settled the\nregion. They go back about four hundred years and each of the stories\nhas similar motif. The beautiful daughter of a famous chief, living in\nthe cold north, is stricken with some dreadful disease or has lost her\neyesight. The chief tries all the medicine men available but without\nsuccess. He hears of the healing springs far to the south and treks\nthousands of miles through the wilderness to get his daughter to the\ncoveted spot. The girl bathes in the water and is healed. Sometimes she\nfalls in love with a handsome brave of the local tribe and marries him.\nIn one case the girl is Mor-i-na-ki, daughter of a Siouian chief.\nAnother story features her as the daughter of Red Cloud, a Delaware.\nStill another gives Noawada of the Dakotas as the chief and his daughter\nis Minnehaha (Laughing Water). Each of these legends runs about the same\ngamut of hardship and privation and ends with the same climax of\nhealing. It is easy to assume that they all originated from the same\nsource, but this may not be true. The historian finds in them sufficient\nevidence to conclude that the northern Indians did make long trips to\nthe springs, and that the water was widely known for its curative\nproperties and healing powers. But there is no way of separating the\nchaff from the whole grain except from documented material.\n\nW. W. Johnson, M. D., who began his practice of medicine at Eureka\nSprings in 1879, the year the town was named, says, \"The traditional\nhistory of the springs dates back to the days of Ponce de Leon, who had\nsought for a fountain of youth where he and his followers might bathe\nand quaff the waters and their age disappear, and they be clothed with\nthe habiliments of youth.\" He goes on further to say: \"The Cherokee\nIndians, when in their southern home--previous to their removal to the\nIndian Territory--had a tradition that in the mountains far to the west\nof their country, and to the west of the Father of Waters, there were\nsprings that their fathers visited and drank of their waters, and were\nhealed of their maladies. This tradition was handed down from one\ngeneration to another. After the removal of the Cherokees to their\npresent home in the Territory, many visited these springs, camped here,\nand drank these waters. Since the discovery by the white men the writer\nhas conversed with members of the Cherokee tribe, and learned that these\nwere the springs referred to in the tradition.\"[1]\n\nOne basic legend that appears to be a part of most of the traditional\naccounts is that of the carving of the basin at the Indian Healing\nSpring, now called Basin Spring. J. M. Richardson in a letter to Powell\nClayton of Eureka Springs, dated May 18, 1884 at Carthage, Missouri,\nsays:\n\n\"It was in the summer of 1847 when a conversation took place between\nWhite Hair, principal chief of the Great and Little Osage Indians, and\nmyself at the office of the agency on Rock Creek (now Kansas) relative\nto lead in Missouri and a celebrated spring in the mountains. The chief\nsaid when he was a boy the Osages took lead out of the bottom of the\ncreek and smelted it with dry bark, and then run it into bullets. He\nstated that where the lead was found was in the prairie and in Missouri\nand two days' travel from that place in the mountains was a spring the\nIndians visited for the purpose of using the waters and getting cured.\nHe said he never knew an Indian 'go there with sore eyes and drink the\nwater and wash in it for a whole moon but what was cured.'\"\n\n\"The chief said Black Dog's father, when a boy, scoured out a smooth\nhole in the rock out of which they would dip the water with cups; that\nthe hole was about the size of the tin basins the white people washed\nin. The Indians, supposing the spirit of the great Medicine Man hovered\nround the spring, never camped near it, and never had any fighting near\nit. In considering Black Dog's age, I conclude the basin was scoured out\nseventy years previous to the conversation. The chief said the water\nspread out over the rock and the hole was scoured in the rock to\nconcentrate the water, and at times it was used to pound corn in to make\nmeal, and that I would know the spring by the hole in the rock. The\ncircumstance had entirely faded from my memory, but in visiting Eureka\nSprings in 1880, the conversation with the chief recurred to my mind. I\nfelt sure that was the great Indian spring.\"[2]\n\nThe vast amount of legendary lore about Eureka Springs proves at least\none thing. The spring water was highly rated by the Indians for its\ncurative properties. Their numerous trips from various parts of the\ncountry to visit this mecca is sufficient evidence that they found what\nthey were looking for.\n\n\n\n\n                                   II\n                        THE STORY OF MOR-I-NA-KI\n\n\nThe tradition, that great healing springs existed far to the south of\nthe land in which they lived, appears to have been wide spread among the\nIndians of the North in early times. Travelers, who visited these redmen\nin the early part of the nineteenth century, discovered legends that\ntold of these springs and their miraculous cures. One of these\ntravelers, Colonel Gilbert Knapp of Little Rock, Arkansas, while on an\nexploring expedition in the copper-mining region of Lake Superior, met a\nFrench half-breed who told him an interesting story. The exploring party\nwas camped on an island near Cape Kenewaw, collecting agates and other\nbeautiful gems which were found in abundance. One night, as they sat\naround the camp fire telling tales, the French half-breed, Jean Baptiste\nby name, told a story which Colonel Knapp thought referred to Eureka\nSprings. Here is the story:\n\n\"My mother, whose name was Mor-i-na-ki, or the beautiful flower, was the\ndaughter of the greatest of the Sioux chiefs. My father, Louis Baptiste,\nwas an agent of the Hudson Bay Company, whose duties required him to\ntravel with the sledge trains to the encampments of the Indians to\npurchase furs and peltries. On one of these excursions he met my mother,\nwith whom he became enamoured. He induced her, with the consent of her\nfather, to accompany him to a trading post of the company, where they\nwere married by a Catholic priest. My mother has told me of many of the\ntraditions of my people. One of these relates to the journey of a large\nnumber of the tribe to the far-distant south-land. It was many years\nago, when one of the winters was so prolonged and severe that many of\nthe tribe died of cold and starvation. One of the chiefs induced the\nremainder of the people to go with him to the south in search of food.\nAfter traveling at great distance they reached the forks of a\nrapid-flowing river, where the climate was mild and the game abundant.\nThe country was in possession of a tribe who cultivated corn and many\nkinds of vegetables. These Indians had large quantities of food and\ngrain stored and were friendly to the visitors of the north-land, and\nsupplied them abundantly from their stores. With all the advantages of\nthis beautiful region, the Sioux were not happy, because the daughter of\ntheir chief, who had brought them to this country, was stricken with\nblindness and lameness and could not walk. When the medicine-men of the\ntribe who possessed this country heard of the sickness of the\nstranger-chief's daughter, they came to his lodge and told him of a\nspring of water flowing from the side of a mountain, only two days'\ntravel distant, whose water being drank would remove the sickness and\nrestore sight to the blind. They said the water passed through great\nbeds of flint, and in its passage it drew the fire from the rocks, and\nit was this fire in the water which killed the pain and disease. On\nreceiving this information he had his afflicted daughter, with all his\npeople, moved to the vicinity of the wonderful spring. They camped near\nwhere the spring was situated, and at this spring was a basin in the\nrock where they got the water that cured the chief's daughter. The chief\nand his people stayed at the spring six moons, when the sick maiden was\nrestored to sight and health. After her recovery the chief returned to\nhis northern home, and ever afterwards the tradition of the south-land\nspring was carefully preserved in the tribe.\"[3]\n\nL. J. Kalklosch, reporting on this legend, gives this interesting\naddition:\n\n\"When the chief of the tribe who possessed the country learned that the\nSioux had camped at the healing spring, he sent a number of his braves\nwith stone hatchets to cut out basins in the rock at the spring for the\nconvenience of the Sioux and his people. These men with their flint\nhatchets cut one basin below the spring to hold the water for drinking,\nand another just below for the purpose of bathing. The basins they\ncovered with bark tents. After bathing in the waters and drinking great\nquantities of it, the chief's daughter's limbs were restored to their\nnatural condition, and her blindness was entirely removed, her eyesight\nbeing as bright and strong as ever.\"[4]\n\nA booklet on \"The Eureka Springs\", published by the Matthews, Northup\nand Company of Buffalo, New York in 1886 says that the Basin Spring was\nso called because of a peculiar bowl-shaped cavity in the rock. Twelve\nfeet farther down the hillside was originally another basin about five\nfeet in diameter, which was used for bathing purposes. According to this\naccount, this basin was destroyed by overhanging rocks falling upon it.\nThe two basins in the rock, which were present when the town was first\nsettled, are without doubt the ones referred to in the extract of the\nlegend given above.\n\nA slightly different version of the legend of Mor-i-na-ki is given in\nAllsopp's \"Folklore of Romantic Arkansas.\" This version goes into detail\nregarding the habits and customs of the Osage Indians who inhabited the\narea at that time. In this version, the Sioux knew of the tradition of\nthe healing spring before they left their northern homeland and made the\ntrip specifically to bring the princess to it.[5]\n\n\n\n\n                                  III\n                        \"THE FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH\"\n\n\nLegend says that healing springs in a far-away land were known in Asia\n2,000 years ago and that the tradition was later carried to Europe where\nit captured the imagination of certain gentlemen in Spain. L. J.\nKalklosch gives a report from contemporary writers as follows:\n\n  \"Before the Christian era, one Ferdinand Levendez, who was in the\n  Roman service for a time, made the acquaintance with a barbarian\n  prisoner by the name of Malikoroff, from whom, in the course of their\n  chats, he learned the story of a fountain, the virtue of whose waters\n  would restore old age to the vigor of youth and of which, if anyone\n  drank continually, he would never die. He (Malikoroff) had it from a\n  Tartar Chieftain under whom he once served.\n\n  \"The chief told him the fountain was far off in the interior of a\n  great island almost inaccessible on account of the snow and ice to be\n  encountered in reaching its shore, but which, on being reached, it\n  spread out into a vast world, most of which had a pleasant climate.\n\n  \"Levendez told many of his friends this wonderful story upon his\n  return to Spain and the tradition lived in the fancy of many an\n  aspiring and ambitious Castillian, even to the time of Christoval\n  Colon when it received a new impetus in the mind of Ponce de Leon when\n  he heard the same story told to him by the Mobilian Indians, on his\n  first visit of exploration in Florida. This Indian chief said that he\n  had the story from a Shawnee prisoner taken in battle, and that the\n  fountain was far to the northwest, and after crossing a great river.\n  Says the credulous Mobilian:\n\n  \"'I have not seen the fountain myself; I only know that the Shawnee\n  told me so, and he said that his father had drunk of the water, and\n  that he was restored to perfect health and activity after being almost\n  double with pains in his bones for six moons, and he proposed to guide\n  me to the spot for his liberty, but the voice of the other chiefs was\n  against me, and he was put to death. The story may have been true: I\n  found all else true that he told me.'\n\n  \"Ponce de Leon set out in search of this fountain but he did not even\n  reach as far as the Great River the Shawnee said must first be crossed\n  (its width four times as far as he could shoot with an arrow); being\n  wounded by the natives, he died in the summer of 1512, the remnant of\n  his forces returning to Cuba.\n\n  \"Now, is there not corroborating evidence of these stories, though\n  reaching back 2,000 years, to convince us that the same spot and the\n  famous fountain lately discovered in Carroll County, Arkansas is the\n  identical fountain of the ancient tradition? Though it may not do all\n  the Tartan chief claimed for it, it does seem to do what the Shawnee\n  asserted it would do, and even more, restoring hair to bald heads, and\n  the gray hairs of age to the color they bore in youth.\"[6].\n\n\n\n\n                                   IV\n               THE DISCOVERY OF THE INDIAN HEALING SPRING\n\n\nThe man largely responsible for the starting of a town at \"the springs\"\nin Carroll County, Arkansas was a pioneer doctor named Alvah Jackson. He\nwas a man of many talents. He not only practiced medicine but was also a\ngreat hunter and trader. In 1834 he was shipping bear oil down the White\nRiver from Oil Trough in Independence County, Arkansas. The town of\nJacksonville was named in his honor.\n\nDuring his hunting trips and trading expeditions into the hills, the\ndoctor contacted many Indians. They told him of a healing spring hidden\ndeep in the mountains that was a sacred spot to the redmen. Jackson\nbegan searching for that spring. From the information secured the spring\nflowed through a basin carved in a table of rock and was located near\nthe head of a small creek with two prongs which flowed into White River\neight miles away.\n\nDr. Jackson spent twenty years looking for this spring. In 1854 he\ndecided that he had found it in what is now known as Rock Spring in\nnorth central Carroll County near Kings River. He immediately moved his\nfamily there. But he was not satisfied that he had found the coveted\nspot.\n\nOne day in 1854 while hunting in the mountains with his twelve-year-old\nson, his dogs \"treed\" a panther in a rock cliff near the head of Little\nLeatherwood Creek. The boy was afflicted with sore eyelids and while\nhelping dig for the panther, got dirt in his eyes. The doctor told him\nto go down the hillside to a spring, to rake the leaves away, and wash\nhis eyes. The boy did as he was told and returned to tell his father\nthat the spring flowed through a basin apparently carved by hand. The\ndoctor hurried down to take a look. He recognized it as the Indian\nHealing Spring he had been searching for these twenty years. (This is\nthe Basin Spring with its carved basin in the Basin Circle at Eureka\nSprings.)\n\nEach day following the discovery Dr. Jackson rode horseback from his\nhome at Rock Spring and filled his saddlebags with bottles of water from\nthe healing spring. His son bathed his eyes in this water and they\nhealed rapidly. Then the doctor began peddling the water to neighboring\ntowns in Arkansas and Missouri, selling it under the label, \"Dr.\nJackson's Eye Water.\"\n\nWhen the Civil War broke out Dr. Jackson refused to take sides. He\nestablished a hospital in the Old Rock House that had been a hunter's\nrendezvous for many years, and built a crude cabin on the bluff above\nit. It was open to all who needed treatment, but patronized largely by\ndisabled Confederate soldiers. When the battle of Pea Ridge was fought\ntwenty miles away in March 1862, this rustic hospital was overcrowded.\n(The Old Rock House may be seen today at the rear of Ray Harris' Feed\nStore at the junction of Spring and Main Streets, Eureka Springs. The\nEverett Wheeler home is at the site of Jackson's cabin.)\n\nThe old Rock House was both hospital and bath house. The doctor took\nhogsheads and split them into halves for bath tubs. He ordered his\npatients to drink the spring water until it ran out of their mouths.\n\nCora Pinkley Call, in her book \"Stair-Step Town,\"[7] tells how the\ncurative waters of the old Indian Healing Spring were heralded to the\nworld and how it brought thousands of people from all parts of the\nUnited States to use the water for drinking and bathing. Judge L. B.\nSaunders, of the Indian Territory, had moved his family to Berryville in\nthe seventies in order that his son, Burton, might attend Clark Academy.\nThe judge had a leg sore that doctors had pronounced incurable. He was a\nfriend of Dr. Alvah Jackson and frequently hunted with him. The doctor\ninvited the judge to try the water at the Indian Spring for his leg. A\ncabin was erected at the site and the Saunders family spent several\nweeks there. The judge's leg was healed and he was so enthusiastic about\nit that he spread the news to other parts of the country. Health seekers\nbegan to arrive at the wilderness mecca, living in their covered wagons\nor putting up tents. By July 1, 1879 there were about twenty families\ncamping near the healing spring.\n\n    [Illustration: Health Seekers Camped at the Basin Spring in July,\n    1879]\n\n\n\n\n                                   V\n                      THE STORY OF MAJOR COOPER[8]\n\n\nMajor J. W. Cooper was a plantation pioneer in Texas. He had taken part\nin the Revolution of the forties and then settled down to grow cotton\nand raise cattle on his vast acreage. Sometime before the mid-century he\nmade a trip to northwest Arkansas and spent some time exploring a\nsection of what is now Benton and Carroll counties. He liked the\ncountry, observed the vast stand of virgin timber, and decided to locate\nthere. In 1852 he sold his Texas holdings and started the long trek\nnorth.\n\nThe trip from south Texas to northwest Arkansas occupied ten years. He\nhad a large strongly built wagon with heavy wheels made of bois d'arc\nwood which was pulled by giant oxen. He owned sixteen head, eight being\nused to pull the wagon and eight in reserve. The yokes used on these\nsteers were of immense size. About a dozen Negro slaves accompanied the\nbachelor Major on this trip.\n\nThe reason for the long time occupied in travel was due to sickness of\nthe slaves. They were plagued with malaria; several of them died.\nBecause of this condition the major traveled slowly and camped for long\nperiods along the way.\n\nOn March 8, 1862, the Cooper caravan reached Elkhorn Tavern, Benton\nCounty, Arkansas. The Battle of Pea Ridge opened that day and the\nMajor's party was caught in the midst of it. The Major joined the\nCherokee Brigade of the Confederate Army and ordered the slaves to\nbutcher the steers for meat. Early in the battle this veteran officer\nreceived a wound and was carried from the field. Dr. Alvah Jackson had\nset up a crude hospital near the Indian Healing spring twenty miles to\nthe east and the Major reported there for treatment. After a few weeks\nhe was dismissed and returned to his command.\n\nMajor Cooper returned to Dr. Jackson for treatment in 1863, but was soon\nreleased. His last visit, near the end of the war, is reported by L. J.\nKalklosch as follows:\n\n\"It was in February, 1865, and the 'Yankees' were numerous in the\ncountry, so that the 'Johnnies' were compelled to make themselves scarce\nor fall into the hands and care of the enemy. Major Cooper did not care\nto have 'Uncle Sam' issue rations to him, so he, with four of his men,\nwere piloted to a secret cave, (the Old Rock House shelter) by his\nmedical advisor (Dr. Alvah Jackson), near the now famous Basin Spring,\nand visitors find it one of the objects of interest during their rambles\nover the city. Here he remained for about two months and used freely of\nthe healing waters. But eventually their secret hiding place was\ndiscovered by the 'Boys in Blue' and they thought it best to find\ndifferent quarters. The conclusion was not reached, nor steps taken too\nsoon as they narrowly escaped being captured by the Federals. One\nbeautiful feature in the Major's escape was that he was fully able to\nmeet the emergency as the water had fully relieved him of all his\ntroubles.\"[9]\n\nAs the war neared its close, the Major bought a tract of land bordering\nthe present City of Eureka Springs on the west. He secured fresh oxen\nand drove to St. Louis to get saw mill equipment. He built his mill in\n\"Cooper Hollow\" and constructed a log house for his home. At the end of\nthe war his slaves were freed, but he succeeded in getting white labor\nthat had been \"fired\" from Mrs. Massman's saw mill on Leatherwood Creek.\nFor several years he operated this mill, hauling the lumber to market at\nPierce City, Missouri.\n\n\"Cooper Hollow,\" half a mile northwest of the city limits of Eureka\nSprings is now owned by Mr. and Mrs. J. R. Woolery. Their modern home is\non the same site as Major Cooper's log cabin. The barn stands on the old\nmill site. The beautiful spring continues its abundant flow as it did in\nthe sixties and seventies when it supplied water for Cooper's pioneer\nmilling enterprise.\n\n    [Illustration: The Old Rock House was a haven for hunters in the\n    early days. It was the site of Dr. Alvah Jackson's hospital during\n    the Civil War.]\n\n\n\n\n                                   VI\n                   THE COW TRIAL ON LEATHERWOOD CREEK\n\n\nDuring the half century before Eureka Springs was settled and named in\n1879, settlers trekked in and built homes in the valleys and along the\nstreams of the western district of Carroll County. The region was\npopular with hunters because of the abundance of game. The virgin timber\nattracted men who set up peckerwood sawmills to supply the pioneers with\nbuilding material. It was a rugged environment of hills and hollows and\nthe settlers matched the mountains in which they lived. Many stories are\ntold of bizarre happenings during this early period and one of them is\nabout the cow trial in a paw paw thicket on Leatherwood Creek four miles\nnorth of the present location of Eureka Springs.\n\nIt was in the lusty Carpetbagger Days of the late seventies or early\neighties. The Leatherwood and White River country was sparsely settled\nwith hunters and timber workers who did a little farming to supply the\ntable. The Arkansas-Missouri state line divided the settlement and\neverything went well until two men got into a dispute over the ownership\nof a cow. One of them was a farmer living in Missouri, the other was a\ndoctor living across the line in Arkansas. The bovine brute in question\nhad no respect for fences or the state line. If the grass was greener in\nMissouri, she pastured there, but occasionally she wandered into\nArkansas to feed on the luscious provender of the hillsides and creek\nvalleys. When in the \"Show Me State\" the Missouri farmer claimed\nownership, but when she came to Arkansas the doctor \"replevined\" her and\nput her in his cowpen. She was a good cow and her milk flowed as freely\nin one state as it did in the other.\n\nThere was no Interstate Commerce Commission in those days to regulate\nsuch matters so the right of ownership in this particular case became\nthe talk of the neighborhood. No blood was shed over the controversy,\nbut there were fist fights from time to time when the argument went too\nfar. At last the people of the community got tired of the uncertainty of\nthe situation and petitioned the local justice of the peace to handle it\naccording to law as it was written down in the book.\n\nThe Squire agreed to consider the matter and rode over to Boat Mountain\nto consult a constable who frequently worked with him. They talked the\nmatter over and decided to hold a trial \"according to law\" although they\nfelt that the cow belonged to the Missourian. They figured the trial\nwould draw a big crowd, if 'norated around considerable, and it would\nprovide a good opportunity to sell a barrel of liquor. This would\ncompensate judge and constable for their efforts in upholding law and\norder in the community.\n\nCabins were few and far between in the hills in those days and none were\nlarge enough to serve as a courthouse. The Squire had his own seat of\njustice under a cliff at the edge of a paw paw thicket on Leatherwood\nCreek. Numerous trials were held here during the reconstruction period\nfollowing the Civil War and justice was dispensed to the satisfaction of\nthe people of the hills.\n\nA day was set for the trial and the constable began making the rounds,\ngiving summons to witnesses and jurors. He hinted that the cow should go\nto the Missourian. The late Louis Haneke, who was sixteen years of age\nat that time, was one of the jurors. Mr. Haneke was a highly esteemed\ncitizen of Eureka Springs in later years and operated a hotel at the\nspa. The cow trial was one of his best stories. The summons read by the\nconstable to Louie was as follows:\n\n\"Louie Haneke, you are hereby summoned as a juror in the case of the cow\ntrial to be held in the Bluff Dweller Courthouse on Leatherwood Creek.\nYou are selected and appointed because of your good citizenship and your\ngreat knowledge of the law.\" Louie felt greatly complimented.\n\nOn the morning of the day set for the trial, men began arriving early on\nfoot, horseback and in wagons. Some of them brought their dogs and guns,\nhunting along the way. They hung their game in trees at the edge of the\npaw paw patch and stacked their guns, as the Squire ordered, in a corner\nof the rock shelter. A hillbilly minstrel was in the crowd with his\nguitar and he sang old ballads to entertain the men before court \"took\nup.\" Even during the trial the judge would frequently declare a recess\nand call on the ballad singer to give his version of \"Barbara Allen\" or\n\"The Butcher Boy.\"\n\nThe rock shelter that served as a courthouse was under an overhanging\nledge of rock that provided floor space about ten by thirty feet. The\nfront was covered with rough boards with a wide opening for a door at\none end. Near the door sat the barrel of moonshine whiskey which the\njudge used as a seat while conducting the trial. In front of him were a\ncouple of two by four scantlings, resting on wooden boxes, which served\nas both a bar of justice and a bar for serving liquid refreshments.\nSeveral tin cups were on the improvised bar for the convenience of\ncustomers.\n\nThe Squire arrived early at the \"courthouse,\" put a spigot in the\nbarrel, set out his tin cups, and opened for business. As the men\narrived, he wrote their names on the barrel with a piece of chalk. When\nthe men ordered drinks, he marked a tally opposite the name for each\ndrink served. Payment was to be made when the trial was over. Then each\nman paid according to the chalk marks opposite his name.\n\nPromptly at nine o'clock the judge rapped for order and the trial began.\nThe men who claimed the cow were present with their attorneys. The\nfarmer's attorney had brought a statute from Missouri while the doctor's\nlawyer produced one from Illinois, none from Arkansas being available.\nThe judge decided to use the Illinois statute, to favor the doctor and\navoid suspicion. He appointed a foreman of the jury and the trial got\nunder way. At intervals during the course of proceedings he would\ndeclare a recess for music and refreshments.\n\nThe whiskey diminished rapidly as cup after cup was passed over the bar\nand by mid-afternoon the barrel was empty. The judge immediately called\na halt to the proceedings and instructed the jury to go to the paw paw\npatch and find a verdict.\n\nAfter an hour in the thicket, the members of the jury discovered that\nthey could not agree. Both the plaintiff and defendant were called in\nand questioned, but that didn't help matters. Either the jury was\nputting on a show or some of its members were not following the court's\ninstructions.\n\nThe Arkansas doctor was a sly man and had provided additional\nrefreshments, hidden in a brush pile in the center of the thicket. At\nthe opportune moment, he produced a couple of jugs and the contents were\nserved complimentary to the jury. No one remembered what happened in\nthat paw paw patch after the jugs were emptied.\n\nMost of the jurors were sawmill workers employed at Mrs. Massman's saw\nmill. When news of the party in the paw paw thicket reached the mill,\nMrs. Massman sent a man with a wagon to pick up the men that belonged to\nher outfit. Some of them had crawled to the stream for water and they\nwere piled like cordwood in the wagon, hauled to the mill and lodged in\na corncrib to sober up. A few of the men remained in the paw paw\nthicket.\n\nWhen these jurors woke up the next morning they found themselves marked\nwith scratches, black eyes and bumps on the head. One of them had a\ncouple of broken ribs. But none could recall what had happened the night\nbefore or how the trial ended.\n\nThe men \"washed up\" at the creek and proceeded to the courthouse to pay\nfor the liquor they had purchased during the trial. There sat the Squire\non top of the empty barrel, sound asleep. They awoke him and paid their\nbills according to the tallies chalked up on the barrel against them.\n\n\"How did the trial come out, Squire?\" asked one of the men. \"Did the\nMissourian get the cow?\" \"Gosh no,\" answered the judge. \"You drunken\nidiots gave her to the doctor.\" \"Well,\" said the juror, \"he had the most\nwhiskey.\"[10]\n\n\n\n\n                                  VII\n                         THE NAMING OF THE TOWN\n\n\n\"A rose by any other name would smell as sweet,\" wrote Shakespeare, but\nwe doubt if any other name for Eureka Springs would fill the bill. It\nwas old Archimedes of ancient Greece who first used the word EUREKA as\nan exultant expression and started it on the road to fame. The story\ngoes that King Hiero assigned Archimedes the job of finding out the\namount of alloy in his golden crown. The old mathematician was puzzled\nabout how to do it for his laboratory was rather inadequate for\nscientific research. But he was a good observer and one day as he was\nstepping out of his bathtub he noticed the water running over the sides.\nThis gave him the clue he was looking for and he rushed unclothed\nthrough the streets of Syracuse, shouting in his enthusiasm, \"Eureka,\"\nwhich means, \"I have found it.\" The result is known as the principle of\nArchimedes which states that a body surrounded by a fluid is buoyed up\nby a force equal to the weight of the fluid it displaces. Since that\ntime the word has been used in many parts of the world as an exulting\nexclamation. California adopted it as a motto in reference to the\ndiscovery of gold there. Nineteen states have towns or post offices\nnamed Eureka, but there is only one Eureka Springs, named on July 4,\n1879.\n\nThe basin of the old Indian Healing Spring, now called Basin Spring, is\nlocated at the bottom of the Wishing Well in the Basin Circle Park.\nMounted on the railing above the basin is this plaque:\n\n\"Directly beneath this sign is the original rock basin after which the\nspring was named. It was here on July 4, 1879 that Dr. Alvah Jackson and\nabout twenty-five families met and adopted the name suggested by C.\nBurton Saunders, Eureka Springs.\"\n\nC. Burton Saunders was the son of Judge J. B. Saunders, and was about\nfifteen years of age at that time. He was a student at Clark's Academy\nin Berryville and it is possible that he had read of the discovery of\nArchimedes in his science books. But it is still a matter of dispute as\nto who suggested the name for the town. L. J. Kalklosch says:\n\n\"When the discovery of the Healing Spring was a certainty, the virtue of\nthe water beyond dispute, and a village was springing up, the necessity\nof a name suggested itself to the citizens and visitors as they were.\nSome suggested that it be named Jackson Springs; others that it be\ncalled Saunder's Springs; but a Mr. McCoy, who had no doubt read of the\ndiscovery of Archimedes, said to name it Eureka, 'I have found it!' This\nwas agreed upon and the young mountain queen was christened 'Eureka\nSprings.'\"[11]\n\nI know not what the truth may be regarding the naming. I tell these\ntales as told to me.\n\n\n\n\n                                  VIII\n                           THE CITY IN EMBRYO\n\n\nEureka Springs was named on July 4, 1879 and it was a boom town from the\nstart. Within a year there were an estimated 5,000 people living near\nthe springs. L. J. Kalklosch tells about this phenomenal growth in the\nbook he published in 1881.\n\n\"Little did Judge Saunders think in May, 1879, when he went with his\nwife and son to camp in the wilderness, miles from anything in the form\nof a permanent dwelling place, where the wild animals dwelt unmolested\nexcept when disturbed by an occasional pioneer hunter, and among hills\nseemingly intended for light footed animals, instead of man and domestic\nanimals accompanying him, that ever a city, possibly the first in the\nstate, should spring up in so short a time.\n\n\"After his cure was an established fact, the news soon spread, passing\nfrom tongue to tongue, and other afflicted mortals, hearing the good\nnews in the wilderness, at once turned their eyes and footsteps in the\ndirection of the star of gladness; and soon other cases of almost\nmiraculous cures were creditably established.\n\n\"The news spread like wildfire. Poor afflicted mortals were soon seen\ndrifting in from all directions. Rejoicing, over the cures effected, was\nconstantly rising in the wilderness. Many heard of the wonder, went to\nsee, as did the Queen of Sheba, whether what they heard was true, and\nthey could exclaim with her that the half had not been told. Others with\nan eye to speculation, soon found their way 'through the woods' to the\nmodern Siloam so that by July 4th there were about 400 people assembled\nin the gulch at the spring to celebrate the National holiday. As yet the\ngreat discovery had not been noticed by any of our Journals, but had\nbeen conveyed from lip to lip, and the visitors were principally from\nthe surrounding country and villages of northern Arkansas and southern\nMissouri. By the incredulous it was denounced as a 'humbug' and the more\ncredulous with having foolish delusions, the effect of the water being\nattributed to the power of the imagination only. But as the doubting\nThomases went one by one to see if what they heard be true, on their\nreturn they reported about as follows:\n\n\"'I don't know; there seems to be something to it. I never had water act\nso on me. People may get well, but I don't know whether it is the water\nor not; they are swarming like bees and it is hard to tell what it will\ndo.'\n\n\"The writer resided at Harrison, Arkansas, forty-five miles east and\nheard all the reports that went abroad, but believed it all to be a kind\nof excitement that would abate with the coming of winter frost. He had\nnot thought enough of it to 'go and see' as did many of his fellow\ntownsmen.\n\n\"About the first of July, 1879, Judge Saunders erected the first\n'shanty' for the better protection of his family. Some people now\nventured the opinion that a village would grow up here, but no one was\n'silly' enough to predict a city of tens of thousands. Even a year later\nthe absurdity of building a city in such a place, with no inducement but\nthe water, was talked of by many. The water has, however, proved to be\nquite sufficient to induce the building of a city.\n\n\"In August (1879) it presented the appearance of a camp meeting ground\nand everybody was at the height of enjoyment. People were camping in\nsheds, tents, wagons and all manner of temporary shelters; some were\nliving in the open air with nothing but the canopy of heaven to shelter\nthem. There was nothing to do but to eat, drink and pass the time away\nin social chat, telling, perchance of the ancient legends of the\n'Fountain of Youth,' the late discovery, their afflictions and, the most\nimportant, their delivery from disease.\n\n\"To give it still more the appearance of an old time camp meeting,\nministers of the gospel were here, and preaching was not uncommon. The\npreacher's stand was frequently a large rock, and the gravelly hillsides\nanswered for seats to accommodate the audience. The hillsides were\nspotted with camp fires to warm the usual 'snack' or to bake the 'Johnny\ncake,' as up to that time there were no boarding accommodations and each\nvisitor brought his provisions with him. One of these fires had burned a\ntree partly off at its base, and while nearly all were engaged in the\nnoon-day repast, a tree fell and struck the wife of Professor Clark of\nBerryville, causing her death in a short time. This was the first death\nat the famous springs, and a very sad one. The remains were taken to\nBerryville and interred there, to rest until it shall so please the\nAlmighty Being to give all mortals power to put on immortality.\n\n\"Judge Saunders' shanty was soon followed by another, and another, until\nthe idea of a grocery suggested itself to Mr. O. D. Thornton. People\nwere coming in daily and when their provisions failed they were\ncompelled to go out for a new supply. This Mr. Thornton decided to\nremedy, at least in the line of groceries. Soon a rough plank house was\nerected near the spring and the first stock of groceries brought to\nEureka Springs, amounting possibly to $200. People began to rush in and\nplank or box houses were soon scattered over the hillsides and across\nthe gulches, all trying to get as near the spring as possible without\nthought or regard of system or anything.\"[12]\n\nMr. Kalklosch continues about the growth of the town and mentions the\nimportance of the saw mills operated by Mrs. Massman and Mr. Van Winkle.\nThe first boarding house was set up by a Mrs. King from Washburn,\nMissouri. She could accommodate only five or six boarders and was always\nfull to capacity. Then the Montgomery Brothers put in a stock of\nmerchandise and did a thriving business.\n\n\n\n\n                                   IX\n                       JOHN GASKINS--BEAR HUNTER\n\n\nAmong the pioneers who settled in the vicinity of the Indian Healing\nSpring before the town of Eureka Springs was founded was the Gaskin\nfamily who located on Leatherwood Creek in 1856. \"Uncle Johnny\" as he\nwas affectionately called by his friends, was one of the famous bear\nhunters of the Ozarks and he left a record of his hunting adventures in\na booklet entitled, \"Life and Adventures of John Gaskins in the Early\nHistory of Northwest Arkansas.\" This little book, published at Eureka\nSprings in 1893, tells the Gaskin story from the time the family moved\nfrom Washington County, Indiana to Carroll County, Arkansas in 1839, up\nto and beyond the founding of Eureka Springs half a century later. Most\nof it consists of his hunting escapades (he killed 200 bears in thirty\nyears), but there are some references to his neighbors and the economic\nset-up of that day. In the introduction he tells about the discovery of\nthe springs and the community's early development.\n\n\"As I was one of the first settlers in the country, living along the\ncreek three miles below Eureka Springs for thirty-eight years, I will\ntell something about the discovery of that place.\n\n\"I had hunted all over these mountains--killed bears and panthers and\nmany other wild animals in nearly every gulch and cave in that vicinity.\nI have killed nine bears in the hollow near the Dairy Spring and many\ndeer, for that was a good place for them. My regular stopping place was\nthe Rock House, or cave, above the Basin Spring in which Alvah Jackson\ncamped on his hunting trips. We often camped there, using the Basin\nwater for our coffee and never imagining it was more than pure water,\nuntil Uncle Alvah camped there with them. They simply dipped the water\nup from the little basin.\n\n\"Then Uncle Alvah began to use the water for other diseases, finding\nthat it was beneficial. He induced Judge Saunders and Mr. Whitson to go\nthere in the summer of '79. Then others began to come and were cured and\nbenefitted; the whole sides of the mountains were covered with tents.\n\n\"I was there every day, watching and wondering. The people crowded\naround the Basin Spring (that was the only spring at first, though in a\nshort time others were discovered) dipping up the water that poured down\nover the rock into the little basin, one waiting on the other.\n\n\"I would watch for hours, wondering how it could be that I had used the\nwater so long and now to see the crowds gathering there for the cure of\nall kinds of diseases. Many who were not able to walk would use the\nwater and be able in two or three weeks to climb the mountains, at that\ntime steep and rugged and without roads. Wagons would turn over in\ntrying to drive too near the springs. Once on the bench of the mountains\nthey would take off the wheels, and let the axles rest on the ground.\nThen tents and afterwards houses were erected.\n\n\"One incident that happened that summer impressed me with solemn\nthoughts. For lack of a house a great many people gathered under the\ntrees one Sunday to hear the preacher. A rain came up and we all retired\nto the rock house. As I listened to a good sermon and saw the preacher\nlaying his book on the rock where I had so often set my coffee pot, my\nmind ran back to the many times I had camped here, to times when the\nscream of the panther or the growl of the bear mingled with that of my\ndogs in the fight. Little did I think that afterwards I would sit here\nand hear the voice of the man of God echoing among those rocks. I was\nconvinced that the all-wise Creator had not made these mountains and\nvalleys merely for the wild beasts.\n\n\"People kept pouring in, and in the fall and winter of 1879 my house was\nalways full of sick and helpless people who had no shelter. We could\nnever turn them away, and many times my wife and I had to give up our\nown bed.\n\n\"One miraculous cure I remember was that of a young man who was brought\nhelpless to my house by his father. He had rheumatism and had to be\ncarried in from the wagon. He drank freely from the keg of Basin water\nwe had at the house, and then his father took him to town the next day\nand bathed him in the water two or three times a day. In one week they\ncame driving back and the boy was sitting up in the seat and could get\naround very well. The old gentleman started on to his Missouri home with\nhis son and a barrel of Basin water....\n\n\"The town built up rapidly without much form or improvement of streets\nuntil after Governor Clayton located here, and through his influence and\nenergy the town soon had a railroad and passable streets, and then the\nsprings were improved and the streets fixed, adding much to the looks\nand comfort of the place. Now it is one of the most picturesque towns to\nbe found in the state, and is visited both for health and pleasure. The\ntown has many magnificent buildings and substantial enterprises,\nincluding the Sanitarium Company, which has grounds near Eureka Springs\nand is doing much in the way of improvements. The beautiful scenery in\nevery direction fills the visitor with astonishment not to be described\nwith the pen.\"[13]\n\nOne story is told about John Gaskins and his encounter with a bear near\nOil Spring on the outskirts of Eureka Springs. Some say it was another\nhunter who killed the bear, but the incident is usually credited to\nUncle Johnny.\n\nThe White Elephant rooming house was located near where Mount Air Court\nnow stands. It was in the early eighties and Eureka Springs had no water\nsystem such as we have today. Water was carried from the springs for\ndrinking water and household use. \"Aunt Min\" who operated the White\nElephant was worried. It was customary to send a couple of girls to Oil\nSpring down under the hill for water, but a bear had been seen in the\nvicinity of the spring and the girls were afraid to make the trip. Water\nwas needed at the White Elephant so \"Aunt Min\" sent for Uncle Johnny\nGaskins, a famous bear hunter, who lived on Leatherwood Creek north of\ntown.\n\nUncle Johnny arrived at the White Elephant early one November morning,\nhis trusty double-barrel muzzle loader in the crook of his arm. He would\nget the bear if it had not already taken to its den for the winter.\n\n\"Take a bucket and bring back some water,\" said \"Aunt Min.\"\n\nThe hunter took the wooden pail in one hand and his gun in the other and\nstarted down the hill, his eyes alert for bear tracks. It was a cold\nmorning and he put his hands into his pants pockets, carrying the bucket\nin the crook of his left arm, the gun in the crook of his right. Two\nhundred yards down the hill the trail makes an abrupt turn to the cliff\nfrom which flows the Oil Spring. At this point Gaskins came face to face\nwith a large black bear followed by a half-grown cub.\n\nHe had killed many bears in close quarters and seldom got excited about\nit. But this occasion called for quicker action than he had ever\nexperienced. Before the hunter could get his hands out of his pockets\nthe bear had the end of the barrels of the gun in her mouth, chewing\nlike mad. There was no time to get the gun to his shoulder so he fired\nfrom the hip, pulling the triggers of both barrels with his left hand,\nthe bucket still on his left arm. It stopped the bear all right, almost\nblowing the animal's head from its shoulders, but it did more than that.\nThe end of the barrels in the bear's mouth caused the gun to explode.\nGaskins got a severe wound on his right forearm from the \"kick\" of the\ngun. The end of the barrels were twisted out of shape by the explosion.\nYou may see the twisted barrels of this old gun at the Ozark Museum,\nHighway 62 West, Eureka Springs. Go and see for yourself.... Oh, yes,\nthey had bear steak and spring water for dinner at the White Elephant\nthat day.[14]\n\nVance Randolph gives this tale under the title \"Uncle Johnny's Bear\" in\nWho Blowed Up the Churchhouse? (New York, 1952), pp. 72-73. In his notes\n(p. 200) he says:\n\n\"Told by a resident of Carroll County, Arkansas, March, 1934. This\nindividual credited it to Louis Haneke, who used to run the Allred Hotel\nin Eureka Springs. Sam Leath, secretary of the Chamber of Commerce at\nEureka Springs, told an almost identical story in 1948, and showed me\nthe remains of a shotgun which he said was used in killing the bear.\nOtto Ernest Rayburn wrote a story based on Leath's account. It was\npublished in the Eureka Springs Times-Echo (April 20, 1950) and\nreprinted in Ozark Guide (Spring, 1951, p. 53). Rayburn says 'the\ntwisted barrels of the old gun may be seen at the Ozark Museum,' which\nis on Highway 62, west of Eureka Springs. Both Leath and Rayburn give\nthe name of the hunter as Johnny Gaskins, who killed more than two\nhundred bears and wrote a book (Life and Adventures of John Gaskins,\nEureka Springs, Ark., 1893, pp. 113) describing his hunts in great\ndetail. But Gaskins does not mention this adventure. Some old residents\nthink it was Johnny Sexton who killed the bear at the 'White Elephant.'\nCora Pinkley Call (in Pioneer Tales of Eureka Springs, Arkansas. 1930,\np. 24) prints a photograph of Sexton with a shotgun in one hand and a\nwildcat in the other without any reference to the White Elephant.\nConstance Wagner tells the story in her novel Sycamore (1950, pp.\n151-52), but doesn't mention the bear-slayer's name.\"\n\n    [Illustration: The Basin Spring as it appeared in the early days.]\n\n\n\n\n                                   X\n                          \"WATER PACKIN' DAYS\"\n\n\nThe first settlers at Eureka Springs considered the water from the Basin\nSpring to be a potent agency for healing and rejuvenation. Judge J. B.\nSaunders, one of the first to try the water, gave this report:\n\n\"In five weeks I lost thirty-three pounds in weight and forty odd pounds\nduring my stay, and felt that I had been fully renovated, or made new,\nand was as active then and now as I ever was in my life. I will also add\nthat from the frequent bathing of my head in its waters, and the\nimproved condition of my health, portions of my hair changed from a\nyellowish white to black, its original color. The color of the hair then\ngrown was not changed, but a new crop grew out from the scalp, the color\nof my hair in my younger days.\"[15]\n\nJohn Gaskins, the old bear hunter, seemed to think the water from this\nspring might influence the mental as well as the physical life of those\nwho used it. He wrote:\n\n\"I want to add that I believe we are raising boys here at Eureka Springs\non this pure water who will have the brains for presidents. I often tell\npeople that I have made it possible for them to raise children here by\nkilling the bears and other wild animals. Now in my old days I have the\npleasure of seeing so many nice healthy children that I feel repaid for\nall that I've gone through, and sincerely hope that my efforts have not\nbeen in vain.\"[16]\n\nThe late Amos J. Fortner was brought to Eureka Springs by his parents in\n1882. He was a young lad with his body twisted with infantile paralysis.\nHere is his story:\n\n\"Life in Eureka Springs, Arkansas, was almost unbelievably crude in the\nearly days of 1882 and 1883, three or four years after the 'healing\nsprings' were discovered by white men, and the place became a mushroom\ncity of five or six thousand people almost overnight. No water works, no\nsewer system, no paved streets, no street cars and, of course, no\nautomobiles.\n\n\"My first memories of the town that was destined to become the leading\nhealth resort of the Ozarks are of gangs of men drilling and blasting on\nthe side of the mountain to change Spring street in the vicinity of\nSweet and Harding springs. Previous to that time Sweet Spring was in a\nlittle hollow far below its present location and almost exactly\nunderneath a high foot-bridge which spanned the ravine. The bridge\npermitted a short cut from the Crescent Springs district to the\ndown-town area. Somehow they were able to locate the underground flow of\nwater and bring it out to the present street level. Then, of course, the\noriginal Sweet Spring went bone dry. I rather believe they relocated the\nHarding Spring also, but I am not sure of this. So it happens that the\nconvenient locations of some of the springs on Spring street are not\nentirely the work of nature.\n\n\"In after years I often saw crowds of people waiting their turns to fill\ntheir pails with the good water from Sweet, Harding and Crescent\nSprings. These scenes would give a new and vivid meaning to a picture on\none of the cards I received at Sunday School: 'Women waiting at the\nwell.' I would use my childish imagination and wonder if an angel was\nhidden in some dim corner by the bath house to 'trouble the water' so\nthat the people who came to bathe could receive miraculous healing.\n\n\"Property values in those days were based considerably on the proximity\nto some good spring. Consequently the homes of the well-to-do people\nwere not located on the hill-tops but on the lower levels where water\nwas plentiful and easy to obtain. We poor folks lived higher up on the\nhill where rent was cheaper. Generally, we didn't have to pay any rent\nat all, but, of course, we had to carry our water a long ways and up the\nsteep hillside.\n\n\"I recall that my brother, who had an inventive turn of mind, built a\nrolling water keg so that he could 'horse' the water up the mountain\nside and not have to carry it. My sister and I would frequently help him\npull the keg up the steep places on the trail. But living that way on\nthe very tip-top of Eureka's sun-kissed hills had its compensations. We,\nthe poorest of the poor, did actually 'look down' on the poor rich\npeople on the lower levels.\n\n\"Another advantage of living high up on the hill was the wonderful view.\nMy brother some how got hold of an old Civil War telescope about three\nfeet long and we would look through it and count the chickens in the\nyards on East Mountain. I would sometimes lie for hours on my stomach in\nour little yard and travel far away among the pines and cedars growing\non the distant ridges. One time I saw a boy and girl sitting together on\na distant hillside with their arms around each other and when they\nkissed I almost passed out for I was only seven or eight years old at\nthe time. I saw other things through that old telescope that I should\nnot have witnessed at my age, but let's skip that. Many happy hours did\nI spend with the old 'seeing eye' and I am quite sure that my passionate\nlove for Nature stems from the beautiful things I saw through it from\nCrescent Hill.\n\n\"The city of Eureka Springs owes a great deal of its picturesque and\nrugged beauty to one man--Powell C. Clayton. He had a vigorous program\nof creating beauty out of a medley array of tumbledown shacks that\ndotted the hillsides. Of course, he made enemies with some property\nowners. Property values were certainly low at that time. My father\nbought one of the old-time houses and three city lots for $100, paying\n$5 down and $2 a month. Previous to that time we had lived in at least\nten different houses during a five year period. Not one of these houses\nhad a stone or cement foundation except along one edge which rested on\nthe hillside. Usually the building was supported by spindly wood posts,\nthe length determined by the steepness of the hillside. Some of these\nhouses were so high from the ground that we could walk around underneath\nwithout bumping our heads. One of them had a southern exposure and it\nwas so high off the ground that the sunshine would reach back far\nunderneath. My mother took advantage of this spot for early spring\ngarden, planting radishes, onions and lettuce. A little later cornfield\nbeans were planted and trained up the posts that supported the house.\nThat year we were eating garden vegetables some weeks earlier than any\nother family living in northern Arkansas.\n\n\"We had to move frequently. The house we lived in would be condemned and\nan official city demolition crew would tear it down. But always Mr.\nClayton would tell my parents of some other house in which we could\nlive, rent free, until it came time to tear it down, then we would move\nagain. At one time when my father was out of town, Mr. Clayton even paid\nthe expenses of our moving. But he was in a hurry that time. He wanted\nto immediately start clearing the ground for the erection of the\nCrescent Hotel and our shack was on the spot where the hotel was to be\nbuilt. Oh how I hated to leave that hilltop!\n\n\"The lumber salvaged from the town was not wasted. Many car-loads of\nused lumber were shipped to western Kansas to build houses and barns for\nthe pioneer families of that region. Many a woman, I have been told,\nstood at the door of her sod-shanty and wept tears of joy when she saw\nthe 'old man' coming with a big wagon load of second-hand pine lumber\nfrom Eureka Springs.\n\n\"Why a lad of six or seven years should remember these things I will\nnever understand but, nevertheless, they are true.\n\n\"I have always thought that the building of the street car system was a\ncivic blunder, but I may be wrong. And I am even more positive in my\nopinion that the coming of the automobile age was a great calamity to\nEureka Springs.... Now, wait a minute before you call me crazy!\n\n\"In 1879 the 'Healing Spring Country' was a vast uninhabited wilderness\nwhere timber wolves prowled and howled and froze the blood in the veins\nof their waiting victims, and foxes had their dens in the caves and\ncrevices along the hillside. Many a 'big bad wolf' slacked his thirst at\nBasin Spring and perhaps cured himself of his mangy ills. (Some 'wolves'\ndo that now, I am told.) In just two years the wild animals had to take\nto the bushes to make room for five thousand people who had poured in to\nmake their homes at the springs.\n\n\"There was a reason for the spectacular growth of Eureka Springs,\nprobably several reasons. The people believed in the water as a cure for\ntheir ailments. Practically every family had some member who had been\nbrought back from the brink of the grave to health again through (so\nthey thought) the 'magic power' of the healing springs.\n\n\"I feel that I owe my life to Eureka Springs! My parents took me there\nin 1882, my body ravaged and my spine twisted with infantile paralysis.\nI had lost my sense of balance to the extent that I would fall headlong\nif my dragging feet so much as touched a rough spot on the floor. I fell\nperhaps thousands of times while I was learning to walk a second time.\nMy parents moved into a cabin in a lonely hollow not far from Basin\nSpring. Each day fresh water was brought from this spring for my dishpan\nbath. It wasn't long until I began dragging my feet along as I tried to\nfollow my brother when he would go to the spring for water. I even began\nto try to climb the hillsides by holding to bushes growing there. Each\nday I would go a little farther up the hillside. Then a great day came!\n\n\"I heard a church bell ringing sweet and clear on the hilltop high above\nour home. An intense longing entered my childish heart to answer that\npleading call in person. With wishful face I asked my father, 'Daddy,\nmay I go up there?' A moment's thoughtful pause and then his answer.\n'Why yes, Jesse, you may go. I think you can make it and no harm to try\nanyway.' So I got out all alone to climb that rugged hill. So steep the\nway, so painful the going that I often had to touch the ground with both\nmy hands as though I were climbing a ladder.\n\n\"After many rests I made it to the top of the hill and entered the\nlittle unpainted church where I sat through the service. Then at the end\nI heard those people sing! Most of them were in Eureka Springs to keep\nfrom leaving this 'vale of tears.' They not only sang, they shouted the\nwords:\n\n  \"My heavenly home is bright and fair,\n      I feel like traveling on!\n  No pain nor death can enter there,\n      I feel like traveling on....\"\n\n\"If ever I have gotten religion in my entire life, it was in that very\nhour in the little church on the hilltop, and I was only six years old.\nYou say a kid of that age can't 'get religion.' That's what you think. I\nknew the facts of life and death far better than most children of my\nage. My ears were sharp and I had overheard my mother and father discuss\nmy probable death in broken tones of grief and despair. They already had\nsix precious children sleeping in early graves scattered through the\nOzark hills where they had lived. And I would be the next to go. This\ntalk did not frighten me. I didn't care.\n\n\"But when I heard the people in that little church sing that great song\nof inspiration I knew that I wasn't going to die so soon and, child that\nI was, my courage was amazing and before the song was ended I was\nvoicing that one line--\n\n  \"I feel like traveling on....\"\n\nAnd I meant it, too! That's how I \"got religion\" at the age of six and\nit is with me yet at three score and ten plus. I still \"feel like\ntraveling on...!\"\n\n\"Coming down the hill wasn't hard at all. I slid most of the way. And\nwhen I entered the cabin my mother's face was happier than I had ever\nseen it before in all my life.\n\n\"In no time at all, I was climbing all over the hills, ever eager to see\nwhat might be in the hollow just beyond. I picked huckleberries and\nblackberries, caught minnows in the creeks and lived the life of the\naverage boy in the hills. If I had been taken to Eureka Springs on soft\ncushions and whizzed over paved highways in an automobile, I wonder if\nit would have been the same.\n\n\"The thing that happened to me happened to thousands both young and old\nduring the two or three decades while Eureka Springs was at its height\nas a health resort. When such folks arrived in Eureka Springs over the\ncrooked railway their 'cure' began immediately. The bumpty-bump-bump and\nthe ceaseless sway of the old horse-drawn vehicles that met them at the\ndepot started their livers into unprecedented activity even before they\narrived to register at the Perry House or the Southern Hotel.\n\n\"Collapsible tin cups were very popular in those days and the health\nseekers would go from spring to spring, rest awhile in the cool shade,\nsample the water and argue the respective merits of Basin and Magnetic\nor Sweet and Crescent. They would keep on going to Dairy Spring and\nGrotto and some walked as far as Oil Spring to bring back a jug of\nwater. A program of strenuous exertion like that, plus the copious\ndrinking of pure water, induced an active patronage of the rest rooms\nprovided at strategic points along the way and it worked wonders. Try it\nand see.\n\n\"As I write these lines I hear a great choir singing on the radio:\n\n  'I love Thy rocks and rills,\n  Thy woods and templed hills,\n  My heart with rapture thrills....'\n\n\"Gosh-all-hemlock, they're singing about old Eureka Springs.\"[17]\n\n\n\n\n                                   XI\n                       THE COMING OF THE RAILROAD\n\n\nThe \"CASEY JONES\" legend of railroad lore does not tie up with the\nturbulent history of the North Arkansas Line, but the two episodes do\nhave a far-fetched parallel. If trouble is a weld of incident there is a\nconnection between the two. The wreck of No. 382 of the Cannon Ball\nExpress at Vaughn, Mississippi, on May 1, 1900 brought Casey into\nrailroadana's hall of fame, but the North Arkansas Railroad, now the\nArkansas and Ozarks Line, experienced almost continued trouble during\nits first 60 years of history. The ballad makers have missed a good bet\nin ignoring the harrowed tale of this mechanical step-child of the\ncentral Ozarks. Time will probably weave the story into a legend, but\nthat day has not yet arrived.\n\nThe Ozark region has had many ups and downs since the \"Arkansaw\nTraveler\" tuned his fiddle in the Pope county hills. Most of the\nfrustrations, however, were of short duration. But the North Arkansas\nRailroad as a problem child of industry is written large in Ozark\nhistory. Two sections of the line have been reopened for service after a\ntense struggle for survival. The following historical outline will\nexplain the difficulties the line has had:\n\n1881. The Frisco Railroad, headed toward Oklahoma and Texas, reached\nSeligman, Missouri, this year. Eighteen miles to the southeast was the\nbooming resort town of Eureka Springs, Arkansas, which had been settled\nand named two years before. The traveling public tired of the slow stage\ncoach service, and the local business men wanted a branch line from the\nFrisco to the Spa. St. Louis capital got busy and a twelve-mile line\nfrom Seligman to Beaver, Arkansas, on White River was built. It was\nnamed the Missouri and Arkansas Railroad.\n\n1882. The road was extended six miles, from Beaver to Eureka Springs,\nunder a different company which was organized by Powell Clayton, then a\nresident of Eureka Springs. The two short lines consolidated as the\nEureka Springs Railway. A schedule of nine trains a day, most of them\nwith pullman service, filled the resort town with health seekers.\n\n1899. A company was organized to extend the road into the hill country\nto the south and east. It was financed by business men of Little Rock,\nSt. Louis and New York.\n\n1901. The line was completed to Harrison and named the St. Louis and\nNorth Arkansas Railroad.\n\n1902. An extension was built from Harrison to Leslie giving the line a\ntrackage of 120 miles.\n\n1905. The road had financial difficulties which ended in a foreclosure,\nbut the stockholders started a program of expansion, determined to keep\nthe road and make it pay.\n\n1909. The road was extended from Leslie to Helena on the south, and\nSeligman to Joplin on the north, making an interstate railroad 369 miles\nlong.\n\n1911. The Shops at Eureka Springs and Leslie were abandoned. Harrison\nput up a donation of $25,000 and the shops were located there.\n\n1914. On August 5th there was a disastrous wreck at Tupton Ford between\nJoplin and Neosho when the M. & N. A. motor coach was struck by a Kansas\nCity Southern passenger train. Forty-three people were killed and many\ninjured. Payments made to families of the victims almost depleted the\nalready low treasury.\n\n1917-1919. The M. & N. A. was operated by the government during World\nWar I.\n\n1921. On February 1 wages of employees were reduced by 20 per cent. This\nwas followed by a walkout which became a strike that lasted nearly two\nyears, causing much ill feeling and hardship. On July 31, operations on\nthe road were suspended.\n\n1922. Service on the road was reopened under new management but they had\nserious difficulties in operating the line.\n\n1927. Into the hands of the receiver again.\n\n1935. The road was sold at auction and bought by the Kell family of\nWichita Falls, Texas, for $350,000. The name was changed to the Missouri\nand Arkansas.\n\n1941-42. Offices and shops at Harrison were destroyed by fire.\n\n1945. A disastrous flood destroyed much track.\n\n1946. On September 6 there was a walkout of employees which led to an\napplication for the abandonment of the property.\n\n1948. Movement was started to reorganize and resume operations.\n\n1949. The line was purchased and reorganized. The section between Cotton\nPlant and Helena was revived as the Helena and Northwestern Railroad. It\nstarted operations early in the year. The trackage between Harrison,\nArkansas and Seligman, Missouri became the Arkansas and Ozarks Railway.\nTwo Diesel engines were purchased for this 65-mile line. Trains carry\ncarload shipments only and the amount of business regulates the size and\nfrequency of trains. The sections between Joplin and Seligman in\nMissouri and from Harrison to Cotton Plant have been junked.\n\nThat is a brief history of the \"turbulent\" North Arkansas Railroad. Few\nrailroads in our history have taken the severe beatings this road has\nsuffered. But the business men and farmers of the central Ozarks are\ndetermined that this section have a railroad. When abandonment was\napparent in 1947-48, they arose like the embattled farmers of Concord\nand Lexington and began a fight that has saved the road. Now it is in a\nmodified form with freight service only and over only a fraction of the\noriginal 369 miles of trackage, but residents of the state are well\npleased with the service and the line appears to be doing well.\n\nThe best historical narrative on the North Arkansas Railway is included\nin Jesse Lewis Russell's history of northwest Arkansas, Behind These\nOzark Hills (published in 1947). Pages 116 to 156 are devoted to the\n\"turbulent career\" of this line.\n\nIn 1901 there was great excitement when the stretch of road from Eureka\nSprings to Harrison was completed. People at the Spa hired rigs to drive\nthem forty-five miles to Harrison in order to ride the first train back.\nIt was a time for celebration and on the streets and in the shops and\nhotel lobbies this verse was sung:\n\n  \"A rubber-tired surrey,\n  A rubber-tired hack\n  We're going down to Harrison\n  To ride the Booger back.\"\n\nWe now have the \"Booger\" back and it is a pleasure to hear him comin'\n'round the mountain, bell ringing, siren tooting, with car-loads of\nlumber, mineral ore and Eureka Springs water for the outside world.\n\nAbout the time of the opening of the new Arkansas and Ozarks line, Clyde\nNewman of Harrison had an article in the Arkansas Gazette which gave\nmost of the above data and some additional information.\n\n    [Illustration: Railroad track.]\n\n\n\n\n                                  XII\n                     THE JAMES BOYS ON PLANER HILL\n\n\nLegend connects Frank and Jesse James with this locality in a humorous\nepisode that is not mentioned in the biographies of these famous\noutlaws. These men sometimes rode into Arkansas and it is reported that\nthey had an uncle who operated a tavern at the stage stop on Planer\nHill, before the town of Eureka Springs was started. It is quite\nprobable that they sometimes \"put up\" with their uncle when they\nconsidered it safe to do so. We have no historical records about their\nvisits here for outlaws seldom keep diaries and prefer to keep their\nmovements secret.\n\nSeveral years ago an aged man visited Eureka Springs and asked Sam A.\nLeath, who was the town's leading guide, to show him to a place on the\nold stage trail two or three miles south of the city. Finding the spot\nhe was looking for, just off State Highway 23, and not far from Lake\nLucerne, the old man told the following story:\n\n\"'Twas in the 70's when I resigned my parish at Ozark, Arkansas, to take\nover a church at Pierce City, Missouri. With four other men I traveled\nnorth on the stage, which was the only transportation available at that\ntime. My companions were strangers but congenial fellows and I\nthoroughly enjoyed the ride through the Boston Mountains. At this spot,\njust south of the stage stop, we were halted by two bandits who proved\nto be Jesse and Frank James. They ordered us from the coach and stripped\nus of our money and valuables. Placing the loot in his hat, one of the\nhighwaymen called me aside and asked me if I were not a minister of the\ngospel. I answered in the affirmative.\n\n\"'Your companions are notorious gamblers,' said the bandit, 'and we have\na special reason for robbing them. But with you it is different. We\nnever take from preachers, widows, or orphans.' With these words, he\npoured a generous portion of the booty into my coat pocket and warned me\nnot to return it to the gamblers. The bandits then mounted their horses\nand disappeared in the woods.\n\n\"There was an ominous silence among my four companions while riding to\nthe tavern. I couldn't understand it. They made no complaint about being\nrobbed and gave no indication of reporting the incident to the law. Even\nthe driver of the stage seemed unconcerned about the affair.\n\n\"Upon arrival, I secured a room at the tavern for the night. As I was\nabout to retire, I heard two men talking in an adjoining room. I\nrecognized the voices as belonging to the two men we had encountered on\nthe road. They were occupying the room next to me.\n\n\"'Do you suppose that man was telling the truth when he said he was a\npreacher?' said one of the men.\n\n\"'I think so,' replied the other, 'but to make sure we will test him out\nat the breakfast table in the morning.' He continued by outlining the\n'third degree' they would give me.\n\n\"I heard every word of the plan and prepared to meet it. Far into the\nnight I prayed for strength to meet the ordeal. Then I fell asleep and\ndid not awake until called for breakfast.\n\n\"The brothers were waiting for me when I reached the dining room. When I\ntook a place at the table, the one I decided was Frank sat down beside\nme. Immediately I felt the pressure of steel against my ribs. Jesse sat\nacross the table in front of me. He asked me to say grace.\n\n\"Never before did such a fervent prayer fall from my lips. I thanked the\nLord for the food, for guidance on the journey, for the welfare of my\nold parish, for the people of my new pastorate, and, lastly, for the\ncompanionship of the two men who were with me. I concluded by asking\nthat richest blessings reward them all through life.\n\n\"All through the prayer I could feel the gun pressing against my side\nand could sense the piercing eyes of the bandit leader from across the\ntable. When I concluded the prayer, we ate the food set before us and\nconversed in a congenial manner. At the conclusion of the meal, Jesse\ncalled me aside.\n\n\"'You're all right, parson,' he said. 'Luck to you in your new parish.\nIf you travel this way again you may depend upon our protection.'\n\n\"I continued my journey and took up the pastorate at Pierce City. But I\nnever saw the James brothers again.\"[18]\n\n\n\n\n                                  XIII\n                   HIGHLIGHTS OF HISTORY AND FOLKLORE\n\n\nJudge Saunders of Berryville completed a cabin near the Basin Spring on\nor about July 4, 1879. A grocery store with a $200 stock was opened by\nO. D. Thornton on July 6th. By the end of July there were twelve crude\ndwellings perched on the hillsides near the Basin Spring. The population\nincreased slowly during the first few weeks after the naming of the\ntown. A count was made on August 10 and it totaled 180 permanent\nresidents. People began coming in large numbers during the late summer\nand this immigration increased during the fall and winter. By July 4,\n1880, an estimated 5,000 people were living in the community and the\nsound of hammering could be heard day and night as new buildings were\nput up.\n\nDuring the first few weeks, the Basin Spring was the center of\nattraction, but it was not long until the other springs in the vicinity\nwere discovered and used. Streets had to be laid out and the first\nproject was Main Street. H. S. Montgomery, with the help of twenty men,\nopened up the valley in August, 1879. Business openings during the first\nyear included: Van Winkle, lumber yard; A. D. Mize, hardware; Dr. Hogue,\ndrug store; Jefferson, saloon; Walquist, tailor shop, William Conant,\nlivery stable. Dr. McCarthy was the first resident physician and lived\non the site now occupied by the Rock Cabin Courts. The first\nmanufacturing business was a cane factory operated by a fellow named\nCook. The first postmaster was T. M. Johnson. Hugo and Herman Seidel\nowned and operated the first produce house which stood at the mouth of\nMill Hollow.\n\n1880 and 1881 were boom years for the new town. Cora Pinkley Call in her\nPioneer Days in Eureka Springs says that in 1881 there were fifty-seven\nboarding houses and hotels, one bank, thirty-three groceries, twelve\nsaloons, twenty-two doctors, one undertaker, and twelve real estate\nagents. Earl Newport, whose father, J. W. Newport, was one of the early\nbusiness men of the city, showed me a picture of about fifty boys who\nwere \"boot blacks\" in the early days of the town. Earl was one of the\nboys who carried a portable outfit and gave a shine for a nickel. Mrs.\nAnnie House, the oldest newspaper woman in Arkansas, was a small girl\nwhen she came to Eureka Springs in 1879. She has been a resident of the\ntown during the entire seventy-five years and spent forty years working\non local newspapers. Charley Stehm, artist in wood and stone, came to\nthe town as a boy in the early eighties and lived here until his death,\nSept. 22, 1954.\n\nTransportation was a problem in the early days. Pierce City, Missouri,\neighty-four miles to the north, was the nearest railroad point. In 1880,\nthe Eureka Springs liverymen established a stage line that connected\nwith the Butterfield stage at Garfield.\n\nEureka Springs was incorporated February 14, 1880. Elisha Rosson was the\nfirst mayor, but he did not remain in office but a few months. The\nsecond mayor, Mr. Carroll, took a census in May, 1881, and the\npopulation to said to have exceeded 8,000. In 1882, Eureka Springs was\ndeclared a city of the first class and ranked as one of the six largest\ncities of the state. Goodspeed, writing of this \"Crazy Quilt\" town about\n1885, said:\n\n\"Everywhere that an abode can be constructed, houses of every\ndescription, tents and shelters, sprang up all over the mountain tops,\nhanging by corners on the steep sides, perched upon jutting boulders,\nspanning gulches, or nestling under crags in the grottoes. It is a most\npeculiar looking place, presenting an apparent disregard to anything\nlike order and arrangement.\"\n\nThe town had two disastrous fires in the eighties. The first one came\nearly in the morning of November 3, 1883, destroying the business\nsection on Mountain and Eureka streets. A fine drug store was located in\nthe V-junction of Mountain and Eureka, a livery stable where the\nChristian Science church now stands, and a bakery across the street. The\nsecond big fire came in 1888 and burned the business section along\nSpring Street from Calip Spring to the Presbyterian Church. 480 houses\nwere destroyed. Only four frame houses were left standing in the area.\n\nAccording to Goodspeed, T. J. Hadley brought a printing press from\nOlathe, Kansas in November, 1879 and established the first newspaper.\nThe date of the first issue of the Echo is given as February 21, 1880.\nWithin two or three years, the town had two additional newspapers, the\nDispatch and the Herald.\n\nEureka Springs has had its full share of legend and folklore and some of\nthe fabulous tales are told with tongue in cheek. Take the marital swap\nof \"Uncle\" Adam and \"Uncle\" Dick. A couple called \"Adam and Eve\" lived\nin a rock shelter across the road from Johnson Spring. Dick and his wife\noccupied an adjoining shelter to the south. One day Adam traded Eve to\nDick for his wife and got a horse and buggy and a dog to boot. Dick and\nhis newly acquired wife left the country soon after the swap, but it is\nreported that the woman came back later and lived with Adam. This\nhappened, according to the old timers, about the turn of the century.\n\nVance Randolph, in Who Blowed Up the Church House?,[19] gives a\ndifferent version of the wife-trading story. He heard the anecdote from\nan old timer in Eureka Springs about 1950. Here is his version:\n\n\"One time there was two old men lived up Magnetic Holler, right close to\na little branch they call Mystic Spring nowadays. One of these fellows\nwas Uncle Adam, and he had a wife. The other one was knowed as Uncle\nDick, and he didn't have no wife, but he had two cows. They got to\ntrading jackknives and shotguns, and finally Uncle Adam swapped his wife\nfor one of Uncle Dick's cows. Folks used to trade wives pretty free in\nthem days, and nobody said much about it. Lots of them wasn't really\nmarried anyhow, so there wasn't no great harm done.\n\n\"But it wasn't long 'till word got around that Uncle Adam's woman had up\nand left him, and moved her stuff over to Uncle Dick's cabin. The next\ntime Uncle Adam came into town, somebody asked him if Uncle Dick had\nstole his wife. 'Hell no,' says Uncle Adam, 'it was a fair swap, all\nopen and above board. Dick give me his best cow for the old woman, and\ntwo dollars to boot.'\n\n\"Folks got to laughing about it, and one day the sheriff stopped Uncle\nAdam in the street. 'This here trading wives is against the law\nnowadays,' says he, 'And everybody knows a woman is worth more than a\ncow, anyhow.' Uncle Adam laughed right in the sheriff's face. 'Don't you\nbelieve it, Sheriff,' he says, 'Don't you believe it! Why, that there\ncow of mine is three-fourths Jersey!'\"\n\n    [Illustration: That there cow is three-fourths Jersey!]\n\n\n\n\n                                  XIV\n                       THE CAPTURE OF BILL DOOLIN\n\n\nIt was during the winter of 1895-96. Bill Doolin, the Oklahoma outlaw\nwas spending his \"vacation\" in Eureka Springs, taking the baths and\nhiding out from the law. He had allegedly killed three marshals at\nIngalls, Okla., a short time before and committed other crimes over a\nperiod of several years of outlawry, and the law was hot on his trail\nwhen he disappeared at the first of the year, 1896.\n\nBill Tilghman, United States marshal, knew Doolin personally and set out\nto capture him. At a boarding house in Ingalls he learned that the\noutlaw had gone to some resort in Arkansas for his health and safety.\nThe marshal selected Eureka Springs as the most likely place for\nDoolin's hideout.\n\nTilghman arrived in Eureka Springs disguised as a preacher, wearing a\nPrince Albert coat and a derby hat. He registered at a hotel and left\nhis baggage. He then walked to a little park in the center of town. A\nman was stooped over the spring, filling a jug with water. When he\nraised up the marshal saw that it was Doolin.\n\nTilghman knew the outlaw was quick on the draw and did not attempt to\narrest him. Instead, he dropped into a nearby shop and watched him\nthrough the window. Doolin walked across the park, crossed a bridge that\nspanned a little stream, and ascended a flight of steps leading to a\nhotel.\n\nTilghman went back to the park, sat down and began thinking. He had left\na shotgun at his hotel and his first thought was to get the gun, hide\nbehind a tree and get his man as he came down the steps. But he wanted\nto take him alive. Then he devised what he thought was a better plan. He\nwent to a nearby carpenter shop and ordered a box made long enough to\nhold his shotgun. It was to be hinged and easy to open. With this\ncontraption he could sit in the park without attracting attention and\nget Doolin as he approached. The carpenter promised to have the box\nready by late evening. He would polish it and make it look like a\nmusical instrument case. That would mean another day in Eureka Springs.\nHe would lay for Doolin early in the morning as he came from his hotel.\n\nTilghman ate lunch at a cafe and then having time to kill, decided to\ntake one of the famous Eureka Springs baths. He noticed the Basin Spring\nBath House across the bridge from the Basin Circle. He walked into the\nhallway and opened a door at the left to enter the lobby. His eye took\nin everything in the room at a glance. There was a desk in the corner\nwith a man sitting behind it. Several men were in the room, playing\ncheckers or reading. One of them sat behind a pot-bellied stove at the\neast end of the lobby, his face behind a newspaper.\n\nWhen Bill entered the room this man lowered his paper for an instant.\nThe marshal saw that it was Doolin.\n\n\"I want a bath,\" said Tilghman and stepped quickly into the hall,\nwalking in the direction of the room marked \"Baths.\" Half way down the\nhall he stopped in front of a door that opened directly into the east\nend of the lobby; Doolin was sitting within a few feet of that door.\n\nWhat if he had recognized him and was awaiting his entrance? He must\ntake a chance. He pulled his .45 from its holster and opened the door.\nThere sat Doolin still reading.\n\n\"Put up your hands, I've got you covered,\" said the marshal as he\nstepped around the stove.\n\nThe outlaw's eyes opened wide in surprise as he recognized Tilghman. He\nreached for his gun but Tilghman grabbed for his wrist, missed and\ncaught his coat sleeve. The sleeve ripped, but he held on.\n\n\"Doolin, I don't want to kill you, but I will if you don't get your\nhands up.\"\n\nDoolin saw that he was trapped and obeyed. Tilghman asked the clerk to\nget the outlaw's gun, but the man was so nervous that he made several\nattempts before he succeeded in getting it out of the holster. The other\nmen in the lobby had run like quail when the trouble started.\n\nTilghman put handcuffs on Doolin and took him to his hotel to get his\nbelongings. Among the items on the dresser was a silver cup the outlaw\nhad bought for his baby boy. Tilghman put it in the suitcase along with\nother things and they were on their way to the depot to catch the 4\no'clock train. A boy was sent to the carpenter to tell him the box would\nnot be needed.\n\nWhen they got on the train, Doolin promised to make no attempt to escape\nand the handcuffs were removed. They arrived in Guthrie, Okla., at 10 p.\nm., and Doolin was placed in the federal jail to await trial. But that\ntrial never came. He made a jail break in July, hid out on a Texas ranch\nfor several months, and was killed by officers when he attempted to\nreturn to Oklahoma to get his wife and baby.\n\n  (Credit for source material on the capture of Bill Doolin goes to the\n  late Charley Stehm, an article in the Eureka Springs Times-Echo by\n  Annie House, \"Eureka Springs: Stair-Step Town\" by Cora Pinkley Call,\n  and \"Marshall of the Frontier--Life and Stories of William Matthew\n  (Bill) Tilghman\", written by his wife, Zoe Tilghman and published by\n  Arthur H. Clark and Company, Cleveland in 1949. The incidents of the\n  capture are somewhat similar in all these accounts but Mrs. Tilghman\n  goes into greater detail in reporting the story.)\n\n\n\n\n                                   XV\n                            STORIES IN STONE\n\n\nAccording to the information on the pictorial sign board in the Basin\nCircle Park, Eureka Springs has fifty-six miles of retaining walls.\nSeveral years ago an old-timer told me he figured that the walls of this\ntown, if put end to end, would reach a distance of forty miles. No one\nhas taken the trouble to measure these walls so one guess is as good as\nanother. In addition to the walls, a large amount of stone has been used\nin the construction of hotels, homes and business buildings. 60,000\ncubic yards of stone in the walls and buildings of the city is a\nconservative estimate. In comparison with the Great Pyramid of Cheops in\nEgypt, the only survivor of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world, this\nmass of stone-work is comparatively small, but it is a lot of stone to\ngo into the make-up of one small town. It would make a single wall four\nfeet high, one foot thick, and approximately sixty-six miles long.\n\nThe great Egyptian Pyramid consists of 3,150,000 cubic yards of stone or\nabout fifty times as much material as used in the building of Eureka\nSprings. The pyramid is about 450 feet high and covers 13\u00bd acres of\nland. It is made of 2,300,000 limestone blocks each weighing 2\u00bd tons.\nAccording to ancient historians, it took 100,000 men twenty years to\nbuild it. At Eureka Springs, workmen in Powell Clayton's time, \"the\nroaring eighties,\" put up most of the walls and buildings in a period of\neight or ten years. The Crescent Hotel was built in the mid-eighties and\nseveral business buildings were constructed of stone after the big fire\nof 1888.\n\nThe stone work of Eureka Springs may be only 1/50th of that of the great\npyramid, but the labor involved was immense. The weight of 60,000 cubic\nyards of limestone is approximately 132,000 tons. The stone was quarried\nnear Beaver six miles away. It had to be transported in wagons or on\nrailroad flat cars to the townsite. If brought by rail it was handled\nthree or four times before it reached its destination. The mere lifting\nof the stone required at least three hundred million foot-pounds of\nwork. If we knew how many foot-pounds a man can do in a day, we could\nfigure the labor potential. The stone had to be cut and laid by skilled\nworkmen. Most of this stone, laid seventy years ago, is in excellent\ncondition today.\n\nBoth limestone and sandstone are used for building material in northwest\nArkansas, but the sandstone must be of the harder varieties to be useful\nfor this purpose. Limestone is preferred, either of the Boone variety or\nmarble. Marble limestone is found in Carroll County, but it is not as\nplentiful as other grades. The block of marble sent from Arkansas to be\nplaced in the national Washington monument, was quarried near the corner\nof Carroll and Newton counties.\n\nOnyx marble is found in this section and at one time Eureka Springs had\nan onyx factory which used the stone in manufacturing jewelry. Great\nslabs of it were taken from the caves in the vicinity. It is a stone of\nmany colors--white, cream, dull red, and yellowish brown, with the\ncolors usually in alternate stripes. It takes a brilliant polish.\n\nThe agate, found in our hills, is a crystal formation, but the particles\nare so minute that they are discernable only under the microscope. It is\nshaped by the cavity in which it is formed. The colors depend upon the\nmineral matter it contains; iron producing reds, saponite the greens,\nchalcedony the grays, and caladonite the blues. The agate is classed as\na gem but it is also used in the manufacture of bowls, vases, signet\nrings, and for rollers in the textile industry.\n\nWilliam Cullen Bryant in his poem \"Thanatopsis\" spoke of the earth as\n\"rock ribbed and ancient as the sun.\" Perhaps he was wrong in his\nconjecture that the earth is as old as the sun, but we leave that to the\nastronomers. It is true that the rock-ribbed earth is very old and each\nof the \"ribs\" gives testimony of antiquity. One of the interesting\nfossilized remnants found in our Ozark country is the crinoid, commonly\nreferred to as a sea lily stem.\n\nHad old Father Neptune decided to pick a bouquet of sea lilies for his\nwife, the lovely Amphitrite, he could have found them in abundance--on\nthe floor of the sea where Eureka Springs now stands. According to the\ngeologists, there were two periods, each millions of years long, and\nseparated by millions of years, when this region was the bottom of the\nsea. The Ozark Mountains are the oldest range on the North American\ncontinent and were at one time higher than they are now. They rose from\nthe sea, grew old and weathered to a mere plain, and then sank for a\nsecond inundation. During the millions of years that followed, which\ngeologists call the Mississippian Period, a class of sea lilies, called\nCrinoids, lived in the warm waters of this vast sea.\n\nThese Crinoids were fixed to the bottom of the sea, preferring a depth\nof about 150 fathoms. They were attached permanently, or temporarily,\nmouth upward, with a jointed stalk. At the top of the stem there was a\nmuscular body that had both motor and sensory qualities. It lived upon\nminute protozoa and other animalcules, which it absorbed from the sea\nwater.\n\nWhen the sea receded from the North American continent these Crinoids\nwere preserved by nature's chemistry. They were fossilized into the\nBoone Limestone. These fossils are found in abundance in the Ozarks,\nespecially at Eureka Springs, and in Benton county near Sulphur Springs,\nArkansas. Some of the stems held together and appear as screw-like\nformations in the rock. Sometimes they were broken up and the discs or\nsegments of the stem are scattered through the rock strata. Two hundred\nseventy-five million years of the earth's past lie buried in this Ozark\nlimestone.\n\nI sometimes take tourists on hikes at Eureka Springs and one of my\nfavorite trails is over East Mountain that rises abruptly from the\nvalley floor of this famous stairstep town. Near Onyx Spring I point out\nthe Crinoids in the rock strata which give mute evidence that this\nregion was once the bottom of the sea. Some of these sea lily fossils\nare almost perfect, others are broken into fragments.\n\nOne need not be a geologist, or even a student of geology, to observe\nand enjoy the rock formation of the Ozarks. The region is an open book\nand even he who runs may read and enjoy it.\n\nThere are stories in the stones at Eureka Springs. Tourists who visit\nCork, Ireland usually go out to the village of Blarney, four miles\ndistant, and take a look at the medieval castle built by Cormac McCarthy\nin 1449. On the summit of the castle tower is the famous Blarney Stone\nwhich has been kissed by thousands of people from all parts of the\nworld. It is an age-old superstition that to kiss this stone endows one\nwith the gift of coaxing, wheedling, flattery and blarney. Eureka\nSprings does not have a \"Wheedling Stone,\" but it does have the Sliding\nRocks at Little Eureka Spring which tradition has marked with special\npurpose. The name, Sliding Rocks, has a double meaning. In the first\nplace, two large flat rocks, each about twenty feet in diameter, stand\ntilted against the mountain side at an angle of forty-five degrees. They\nslid down the mountain, ages ago perhaps, to their present location.\nThat was long before the white man came to drink the \"Wonder Water\" from\nthe near-by spring. An oak tree a foot in diameter now stands in the\npath which the rocks took in making the descent to their present\nposition. Putting the rocks in this position was the work of Nature; to\nwrap them in a halo of tradition called for the ingenuity of man.\n\nSome person who liked to have fun noticed the Sliding Rocks and started\na custom that developed into a ritual. They became initiation stones for\nnewlyweds as a part of the charivari ceremony. In the Ozarks, newly\nmarried couples are usually \"shivareed\" by their friends. They are\nserenaded with bells and shotguns and other racket making devices and if\nthe groom refuses to \"treat\" with candy and cigars, he is given an\nunconventional bath in the river. In some communities the bride and\ngroom are driven around town in a horse-drawn vehicle or an old jalopy.\n\nAt Eureka Springs, it became a practice to have the newlyweds slide down\nthe perpendicular rock near the spring. It developed into a tradition\nand even today honeymooners, others too, try the daring slide to prove\ntheir courage. The surface of the stone is covered with scratches made\nby shoe heels that dug-in during the sliding operation. The most\ndisastrous potential about this fun-making ordeal is the disruption of\nthe seat of the pants.\n\n\n\n\n                                  XVI\n                              THE SPRINGS\n\n\nThere are forty-two springs within the corporate limits of Eureka\nSprings. Most of these belong to the city and are included in the\nmunicipal park system. A few are privately owned such as Ozarka in Mill\nHollow, Congress, Lion, Carry Nation and Cold Spring on East Mountain.\nSam A. Leath has counted and named sixty-three springs within a one-mile\nradius of the center of town and it is said that there are about 1200\nsprings in the Western District of Carroll County.\n\nThe Basin Spring, so called because of the peculiar depression in the\nlimestone rock, was first called the Indian Healing Spring and\ndiscovered by a pioneer hunter, Dr. Alvah Jackson, in 1854. It comes\nfrom a cave in the cliff-side and in the early days made a cataract down\nthe mountain to the valley floor where it joined Little Leatherwood\nCreek. About one hundred feet below the cave that houses the spring is a\nflat rock, now covered with a deep layer of concrete. In this rock, the\nIndians cut two basins, one about eighteen inches in diameter and twelve\ninches deep, the other, twelve feet farther down, about five feet in\nlength and ten inches deep. The larger basin was partially destroyed by\nfalling rock before the spring was discovered by white men. The smaller\nbasin is still in existence at the bottom of the Wishing Well. The\nfountain from this spring is surrounded by the Basin Circle Park with\nband stand, and seats for those who like to loiter in a restful,\npicturesque environment.\n\nSweet Spring is on Spring street around the corner from the post office.\nIts original position was in the hollow about two hundred yards below\nits present site. When Spring Street was laid out by Powell Clayton and\nother city officials in the early eighties, the stream of water was\ntapped and a stone pit erected with steps leading down to the fountain.\nThe spring itself was imprisoned in stone for sanitary reasons. No one\nseems to know the origin of the name Sweet for this spring. Benches\nbeneath the hard maple and ginkgo trees surround this spring and it is a\ncool spot for summer loafing.\n\nIn the early days, Harding Spring ranked next to Basin in importance. It\nhas supplied the Palace Bath House with water for bathing for almost a\nhalf a century. It flows from a picturesque cliff on Spring Street with\na rock projection called Lover's Leap a few feet away. It is one of the\nmost photographed spots in Eureka Springs.\n\nCongress Spring at the rear of the Congress Spring apartments is \"honey\nout of the rock\" for those who like top quality aqua pura. It comes from\na cave and is said to have been discovered by workmen while blasting\nrock on Spring Street. Standing at the spring one may look skyward and\nobserve a street seventy feet directly above. The rock formation at this\npoint is a miniature Gibraltar.\n\nCrescent Spring, between the Carnegie Library and Presbyterian Church,\nderived its name from the large crescent-shaped ledge of rocks over\nwhich it originally flowed for a distance of fifteen feet. It is now\nwalled in stone and sheltered with a pointed roofed pagoda.\n\nContinuing on Spring Street, Grotto Spring \"on the boulevard\" is next.\nIt has a picturesque position in the mountain side, fronted with a lane\nof sycamore trees. The spring was named because of its location in a\nnatural stone grotto.\n\nOn East Mountain there is water almost everywhere. Some of the best\nknown springs, each with its individual scenic setting, are: Cave,\nLittle Saucer, Big Saucer, Little Eureka, Onyx, Carry Nation, Soldier\nand Cold. Cave spring, near the home of Mr. and Mrs. Glenn Ward\nDresbach, flows a stream of pure cold water from a narrow cave. Little\nEureka has a small stream and never goes dry. This spring is known for\nthe purity of its waters (5\u00bd grains of solids to the gallon) and many\npeople swear by it. It is said that Little Eureka water won second place\nin a world wide contest at the St. Louis World's Fair in 1904. Water\nfrom a spring in Switzerland won first.\n\nThe Carry A. Nation spring flows from a cave which the crusader used as\nan \"ice box\" during her sojourn in Eureka Springs (1908-11). This cave\nhas a constant temperature the year 'round and is an ideal natural\nrefrigerator. In the days preceding artificial refrigeration, the East\nMountain folks made use of Carry's cave for storing milk, butter and\nother perishables. The water from the cave spring has been piped across\nthe street to Hatchet Hall, which is now a museum and art center, owned\nby the artists, Mr. and Mrs. Louis Freund.\n\nOnyx Spring comes from a cave in which onyx was once secured for making\njewelry. It was formerly called Laundry Spring because of its popularity\nas a place for washing clothes. A sarvis tree now grows from the rock\ndirectly over the spring.\n\nSoldier Spring is at the entrance of a small cave at the west end of Nut\nStreet on East Mountain. According to legend, two bushwackers were\nkilled at the entrance of this cave by federal soldiers during the Civil\nWar. A bushwacker is an outlawish fellow who hides behind a bush and\ntakes a \"whack\" at you with his rifle gun. In this instance, the\nsoldiers got the first whack and the stream from the cave was named\nSoldier Spring. For several years the large oak tree across the road\nfrom the spring was a natural bee tree and a swarm of honey-makers\noccupied it each season. Not many modern towns can boost of a bee tree\nwithin the city limits.\n\nIn Mill Hollow we have the famous Ozarka Spring, the only Eureka Springs\nwater that is commercialized. It is shipped in glass or enamel-lined\nrailway cars to many cities in the mid-west. Ozarka is a liquid treasure\nfrom nature's vast laboratory. Other springs in the vicinity are Little\nOzarka, Minnehaha with its Indian legend, and the Bancroft Springs.\n\nMagnetic Spring is one of the most popular springs in the city. The\nwater was once thought to be radio-active and old-timers claimed it\nwould magnetize a knife blade. It is a popular place for picnickers and\nthe city has provided a shelter-house with tables, barbecue pit and\nother facilities. Magnetic Hollow has other springs such as Mystic,\nwhich flows from a picturesque cliff, and Bell Spring which makes a\nmusical sound like the tinkling of a bell. An iron and sulphur spring\nwas once located near the railway depot, but is not now flowing.\n\nTo the west and south of the city, within walking distance, are the\nfamous Oil and Johnson springs and sixteen springs that feed the city\nlake that supplies the municipal water system. A bathhouse once stood\nunder the cliff between Johnson and Oil Springs. The oil spring is\npeculiar in that the waters have an oleaginous feeling when rubbed\nbetween the hands. It was once considered beneficial in diseases of the\nscalp.\n\nLion Spring flows from the cliff near the back door of the home of Mr.\nand Mrs. Everett Wheeler, publishers of the Eureka Springs Times-Echo.\nFor many years the Lion Spring Hotel, operated by \"Mother\" Belden, was\nlocated on this site. A stone Lion's head is set up as a dispensary and\nthe water flows through its mouth. This spring once supplied a stream of\nwater for Dr. Alvah Jackson's primitive bathhouse in the rock shelter\nfifty feet below. A wash-tub was secured from a sugar camp on Keel's\nCreek and this, with half-a-dozen canteens, constituted the outfit of\nthe first water-cure establishment in this part of the state.\n\nCalip Spring is on South Main Street near the Elk's Club. It supplied\nthe community watering trough in the early days of the town. Fishermen\nnow use this trough as a depository for minnows. Gadd Spring is farther\nnorth on Main Street and is housed in a rock edifice made from crystal\nand other odd-shaped rocks.\n\nIn regard to the springs at Eureka, L. J. Kolklosh wrote in 1881:\n\n\"No other springs in the world have had so many cures and such a\nreputation in so short a time as the Eureka Springs of Arkansas. History\ndoes not record an equal.... Eureka had made a name that has been heard\nthroughout Christendom.\"\n\n\n\n\n                                  XVII\n                          THE LAY OF THE TOWN\n\n\nA crazy quilt is made up of pieces arranged without pattern or order.\nEureka Springs is like that. It is an architectural labyrinth unique\namong cities. The recently built annex of the Penn Memorial Baptist\nChurch has a home for the minister on the third floor. You may enter at\nthe street-level door on Mountain Street, walk through the rooms--a\ndistance of about forty feet--and look down upon Owen Street, thirty\nfeet below. This sounds like an architectural fairy tale, but it is\ntrue. Houses are built like that in this Switzerland of America. In many\nhomes the street entrance is on the second or third floor, or the house\nmay be reached by a stairway clinging to the mountain side. One business\nhouse is surrounded by streets like a moat 'round a castle and it has\nfour street addresses each on a different level. In the early days when\nthe town was thronged with health seekers who wanted homes near the\nsprings, terraces were built and hemmed-in with massive stone walls.\nHouses were constructed on these terraces with stairways leading from\none level to the other. Frequently a natural cave opens at the backdoor.\nThe yards and gardens have the appearance of \"The Hanging Gardens of\nBabylon,\" built by Nebuchadnezzar for his hill-loving queen. Some\nresidents may step from their gardens to the roof of the house while\nothers must climb stairways to their patch of vegetables.\n\nThe first lawsuit in Eureka Springs, according to the old-timers, was\ncaused by a woman who lived in one of these terraced homesites. She\ncarelessly threw dishwater out of the backdoor and down a neighbor's\nchimney, damaging the furniture.\n\nVance Randolph tells about a drunken farmer who was found in the streets\nof the town one Saturday night. The pavement is not level by any means\nand the poor farmer was walking with one foot on the sidewalk and one in\nthe gutter. A woman came along and the fellow called on her for help.\n\"You're just drunk,\" she told him. \"Is that it?\" he said, much relieved,\n\"My gosh, I thought maybe I was crippled.\"\n\nEureka Springs is laid out with 238 named streets with no direct cross\nintersections. (One or two right-angle crossings have been found since\nRipley featured this item in his \"Believe It or Not.\") On the map the\nstreets look like a bewildered maze with the letters U and V formed\nfifty-one times, the letter S thirteen times, O, seven times, and\nperhaps other alphabetical curiosities in this labyrinth of streets.\nThere are five street levels on West Mountain from Main Street in the\nvalley to the Crescent Hotel on Prospect Avenue.\n\nMany exaggerated tales have been told about this \"crazy quilt\" town.\nThere is the fellow, for instance, who doesn't need a picture window in\nhis house to observe the scenery. He merely looks up the chimney and\nwatches his neighbor drive the cows home from the pasture. And don't\nforget the well digger who was digging a well on East Mountain. When\ndown about forty feet the bottom of the well fell out and he landed (on\nhis feet) right in the middle of Main Street. They had to change their\nplans and dig the well up instead of down in order to strike water.\n\nEureka Springs has only two business thoroughfares, Main Street in the\nvalley from Planer Hill to the railroad station, and Spring Street which\nbranches off of Main at the City Auditorium and winds around the\nmountain to the Crescent Hotel. Once, in the early days, a feud\ndeveloped among the merchants on Main (then called Mud Street) and they\nbuilt a high board fence right down the middle of the street. This made\nthe traffic lanes so narrow that a wagon could barely squeeze through.\nThe fence was soon removed by order of the city authorities. Spring\nStreet is lined with flowing springs--Sweet, Harding, Congress,\nCrescent, Grotto, and Dairy on the Harmon Playgrounds, once the site of\nthe old auditorium. This street was engineered by Governor Powell\nClayton (they always called him \"governor\") who helped dress up the town\nin the early eighties. Sweet spring was \"moved\" from the hollow behind\nthe post office to its present location on the Spring Street level.\n\nIn addition to the street layouts, other believe it or nots in the city\nare the Basin Park Hotel, \"eight floors and every floor a ground floor,\"\nthe St. Elizabeth's Church, \"entered through the steeple,\" and Pivot\nRock, sixteen inches in diameter at the base and thirty-two feet across\nat the top. The hotel stands against the side of the mountain with its\nstreet level door on Spring. It is bridged from the rear to paths on the\nmountain side at four different levels. The \"steeple\" of the church is\nin reality a detached bell-tower. It is on the Crescent Grade level and\nsteps lead down to the church which is set on a terrace held in place by\na twenty-foot wall. A rock can be tossed from this terrace to the roof\nof the Carnegie Library about one hundred feet below on another street.\nThe travel distance between the two locations is about one-fourth mile.\n\nThe numerous stairways of wood and stone, connecting street levels, have\ngiven rise to the name, \"Stairstep Town.\" Cora Pinkley Call used this\ntitle for her book on Eureka Springs, published in 1953. Some of the\nleading stairways are: Jacob's Ladder, Sweet Springs, Magnetic Spring\nSkyway, and the \"upway\" from Spring Street to Eureka Street. Jacob's\nLadder is a series of wooden steps up East Mountain from the Main Street\nlevel to the Skydoor residential district on the mountain side. Rest\nstops are provided along the way in the form of seats where the old may\nrest and the young, perchance, do a little courting. The Sweet Spring\nsteps are of stone and they lead from the spring, through the tree tops,\nto the terminus of two streets three hundred yards above. The Magnetic\nSpring stairway is at the junction of Main street with Magnetic Drive,\nreaching up to Hillside (Depot Grade). These steps are now covered with\nmoss and seldom used. It was once a popular walk-way from the Sanitarium\non the hill to Magnetic Spring. The winding \"up way\" from the foot of\nMountain Street at the Baptist Church is a short cut to a private home\ncalled Mount Air. Taking this stairway reminds us of the tourist who\nasked a native Ozarker if he was on the right road to Springfield.\n\"Well, not exactly,\" he replied, \"This road just moseys along for a\nspell, then it turns into a pig trail, then a squirrel track, and\nfinally runs up a tree and ends in a knot-hole.\" If you take this\nstairway and path to the upper street, turn to the left and follow the\npath around the mountain, you end up at the rear entrance to the fourth\nfloor of the Basin Park Hotel.\n\n    [Illustration: Airplane View of the City]\n\n\n\n\n                                 XVIII\n                         THE STREET CAR SYSTEM\n\n\nEureka Springs at one time had the most unique street car system in the\nnation. It began as a mule car line in 1891, but was electrified seven\nyears later. It remained in operation until 1923 when it was crowded out\nby jalopies which invaded the town. The streets were not wide enough to\naccommodate both the street car and the Model T. The total length of the\nline was about three miles, but the two terminals of the main line were\nonly half a mile apart. The entire system was a single track with three\npassing switches. The track was standard gauge and placed near the curb\nat one side of the street, as the streets were too narrow for center\ntracks.\n\nJohn T. Brown, writing in \"Trolley Sparks,\" says that the Citizens\nRailway Company of Eureka Springs had a total of twelve cars, five of\nwhich were closed cars operated by one man, six two-man open cars, and\none work-car which was also used as a party car. Except for two of the\ncars, all were originally mule-drawn cars purchased second hand from\nHouston, Texas. These cars were motorized with second hand electrical\nequipment purchased from the Detroit Street Railways. In 1904, two new\nsummer cars were obtained from the St. Louis Car Company.\n\nThe Daily Times-Echo in the twenty-fifth anniversary issue of April 24,\n1905, says:\n\n\"In no other city on the continent can there be found a street railway\nthat leads such a winding course around and up and down the\nmountain-sides as does the Citizens Electric Railway of Eureka Springs.\nAs you alight at the depot of the St. Louis and North Arkansas Railway\nyou find a well-equipped street car there in waiting, and presently you\nare swung up and around the mountain side along what appears to be a\nledge or precipice, and to the timid, it seems that in each instance\nthere is danger of the car being hurled to the valley below. But really\nsuch a possibility is very remote, for during all the years the line has\nbeen in operation there has never been a serious accident. To make\nsafety doubly sure, the far-seeing management has had guard rails laid\nall along this section of the line. From the depot up the mountain side\nto the intersection with the main line at the Crescent Spring, a little\nmore than half a mile, the ascent amounts to a fraction over 101 feet,\nor a little more than 200 feet to the mile. The main line, which circles\naround West Mountain, traversing the most popular thorofare of the city\nand passing most all the famous springs and principal institutions, is\nnot without its grades and wondrous curves.... At the Auditorium (now\nthe Harmon Playgrounds), the track commences a most charming and\ntortuous ascent, and a feat of engineering that has challenged the\nadmiration of many scientific men who have visited the resort. A roadbed\nhad to be graded around the mountain side at angles that would seem\nridiculous were it anywhere else than in this unusual mountain range.\nOne car will be only a few yards from and above the other, and\napparently going in the same direction when actually, they are headed\ntoward opposite ends of the line. These ends, however, are only 300\nyards apart, one end resting in the valley while the other is at the\nmountain's peak. From the Crescent Hotel to the Auditorium there is a\ndescent of 140 feet.\n\n\"The equipment and service on this street railway is better than can be\nfound in many cities of far greater population than Eureka Springs, and\nthe entire system is a source of gratification and pride to our people.\nVisitors make the valley echo with their merry shouts as they are\ncarried around its course in the beautifully decorated and lighted\ntrolley party cars, and the bands and orchestras of the city are\nfrequent participants in these festivities.\"\n\n    [Illustration: Trolley car.]\n\n\n\n\n                                  XIX\n                            CARRY A. NATION\n\n\nCarry A. Nation was a militant voice in the \"wilderness of sin\" at the\nturn of the century. Her three hatchets, which she named \"Faith, Hope\nand Charity,\" cut deeply into the liquor industry. Not that the liquor\nshe destroyed in her attacks on bars and saloons amounted to a great\ndeal, but her influence in fostering nation-wide prohibition was far\nreaching. She spent considerable time in jail and paid numerous fines,\nbut this did not lesson her enthusiasm for the cause to which she\ndevoted her life. Carry hated liquor, tobacco, rouge, lip-stick, and\nimmorality in all its phases. She operated under the unwritten law\nwhich, she thought, superseded man-made legislation. Even some of the\nchurches did not condone her radical ways and closed their doors to her.\nBut she organized her own.\n\nCarry married twice; first to a young fellow in Cass County, Missouri,\nwho called himself \"doctor.\" He was addicted to drink and Carry could\nnot reform him so she left him and returned to the home of her parents.\nHe died shortly after their baby was born. Her second marriage was to\nDavid Nation, a lawyer, newspaper man, and later, a Campbellite\npreacher. This marriage fared better than the first one but it was not a\nhappy affair. Carry cut the swath for the family and David had to string\nalong as best he could.\n\nCarry Nation's militant crusades against the liquor traffic began at\nKiowa, Kansas about 1900. After \"cleaning up\" the town to her\nsatisfaction she turned her face toward Wichita. She met with\nconsiderable opposition in the big town and her raids landed her in\njail, but friends paid her out. At Topeka she used the hatchet for the\nfirst time in her raids.\n\nAfter a few years of raiding and smashing she went into chautauqua to\nlecture on temperance. She made a speaking tour in Europe in 1908 and\nlanded in jail in Scotland where she had to serve the full sentence.\n(The Scotch did not like to see their whiskey spilled). In 1909, at the\nage of sixty-three, she bought a little farm near Alpena in Boone\nCounty, Arkansas where she spent a part of her time during the year that\nfollowed. Then she selected Eureka Springs as her retirement home and\npurchased a two-story frame house on Steele Street which she named\nHatchet Hall. She decided to start a college at Eureka Springs for the\nteaching of temperance. She called it the Carry A. Nation College and\nerected a frame building near her home for class rooms. But the college\ndid not last long for in 1911, while making a temperance speech from a\nbuggy in the street in front of the Basin Circle, she had a stroke, and\ndied a few days later. Her body was taken to her girlhood home at\nBelton, Missouri for burial.\n\n\n\n\n                                   XX\n                       A BANK ROBBERY THAT FAILED\n\n\nOn the night of September 26, 1922, five men were camped in the woods on\nthe hill near where the Mount Air Court is now located, well hidden from\nthe traffic on U. S. Highway 62. Sitting around the camp fire were Si\nWilson, Marcus Hendrix, a 21-year-old Indian, a man named Cowan, and the\ntwo Price brothers, Charlie and George. They were desperate Oklahoma\noutlaws from the Cookson Hills, remnants of the old Henry Starr gang.\nTheir business at Eureka Springs was to rob the First National Bank.\n\nSitting around the bed of coals this September night, the outlaws\ndiscussed their plans. Charlie Price, the leader, did most of the\ntalking. He outlined the plan for the robbery on the morrow at 12:05\nP.M. when practically all business houses would be closed for the lunch\nhour. Hendrix was to remain in the car at the front of the bank, ready\nfor a quick getaway.\n\n\"I guess you fellers know what you're doing,\" said Wilson, who had\nrecently joined the gang. \"But don't forget what Sam Lockard and Henry\nStarr said. They warned you that Eureka Springs was a deathtrap.\"\n\nPrice laughed and said that it would be easy because everything was well\nplanned.\n\n\"We'd better hit the hay and get some sleep,\" said Charlie. \"Big day\ntomorrow.\" As he rolled into his blankets he remembered to wind his\nwatch. He turned the stem carefully in the darkness but fate took a hand\nand a little extra pressure sent the hands around one revolution without\nhis knowledge. His faithful old watch had played a trick on him.\n\nAt exactly 11:05 A.M., mistaken by the bandits to be 12:05 P.M., a car\ndrove up in front of the First National Bank on Spring Street. Hendrix\nremained at the wheel while the four others entered the bank. The story\nof the robbery and its tragic aftermath has been told in newspapers, by\nHorace H. Brown in Startling Detective Magazine, and by Cora Pinkley\nCall in her book \"Eureka Springs--The Stair-Step Town.\"\n\nMembers of the bank staff on duty on September 27, 1922, were: Tobe\nSmith, cashier, Fred Sawyer, teller, Mrs. Maude Shuman, Miss Loma Sawyer\nand Miss Jewel Davidson. Customers in the bank when the robbers entered\nwere: Sam Holland, Robert Easley, John Easley and Luther Wilson. Others\nwho walked in while the holdup was in progress were: John K. Butt,\nClaude Arbuckle and Bob Bowman, clerk at the Basin Park Hotel.\n\nTobe Smith saw the four men enter the bank and when they drew their guns\nhe stepped on the burglar alarm which had connections at the Bank of\nEureka Springs, a block up the street, and the Basin Park Hotel, the\nsame distance in the other direction. The robbers did not know this but\nlined up the occupants of the bank, face to the wall, and proceeded to\nscoop up all available cash and bonds. While doing this Charlie Price\nnoticed the clock on the wall. The hands stood at exactly 11:10 A.M.\nTime had played its trick.\n\nIn the meantime the alarm had caused a furor of excitement in town, and\nC. E. Burson of the Bank of Eureka Springs had sent a bullet from his\npistol that punctured a rear tire of the bandit's car. Young Hendrix,\ngetting excited, started the car slowly down Spring Street but a bullet\nstruck him as he reached the junction with Center Street and he turned\nthe car into a railing at the head of a stairway. He was captured\nwithout offering resistance.\n\nBy this time the four bandits had left the bank with the money in a\nsack, taking two of the bank employees as hostages. They knew they would\nhave to fight their way out and sought to escape down the stairway by\nthe Times-Echo office which leads to Center Street. Guns were popping\nand bullets flying everywhere. Si Wilson was killed instantly, George\nPrice died a few minutes after being taken to Dr. R. H. Huntington's\nhospital, Charlie Price died from his wounds a few days later.\n\nCowan was wounded. He and Hendrix were sentenced to terms in the state\npenitentiary.\n\nEureka Springs citizens who battled with the outlaws were: Ernie Jordan,\nJoe McKimmey, Jess Littrell, Robert Bowman, Homer Brittan and Sam\nHarmon. The story of their courage in defeating this desperate gang\nwithout loss of a man was told in newspapers throughout the country.\nNone of them were wounded except Ernie Jordan who received a powder burn\nin the face. F. O. Butt, Eureka Springs attorney, was president of the\nFirst National Bank at that time. He had his office over the bank\nbuilding. He was glad to see the sack of money and bonds returned\nwithout loss. It had been dropped on the Center Street stairway during\nthe fight.\n\n\n\n\n                                  XXI\n                           INSPIRATION POINT\n\n\nThe Ozarks is a land of dreams. Some of them succeed, some fail.\nTraveling through the hill country we find numerous ruins of partially\nbuilt projects, that reveal the urge of man to build and perpetuate.\n\"Coin\" Harvey's Pyramid at Monte Ne, the Kingston Project in Madison\nCounty, the old Chautauqua Assembly at Sulphur Springs, the numerous old\nhotels at once-popular watering places, ghosts of a past era when the\nwater cure was a national fad, social and cultural colonies, the\nlengthened shadows of promoters or reformers, that existed for a few\nyears and then passed into oblivion. These are monuments to dreams that\nfailed or prospered for a season and then passed out.\n\nOn the other hand there are numerous active enterprises in the hills\nsuch as Ted Richmond's Wilderness Library in Newton County, and the\nfamed \"School of the Ozarks\" near Hollister, Missouri. Other projects\nhave been built with broad business perspective such as the town of Bull\nShoals. Churches have been successful in establishing permanent\ninstitutions such as the Sequoyah Assembly at Fayetteville and the\nSubiaco Academy in Logan County. Some projects with more than local\ninterest were started by one person and completed by others.\n\nThe unique stone building called \"The Castle,\" located at Inspiration\nPoint in Carroll County, on U. S. Highway 62, six miles west of Eureka\nSprings, was originally the dream of a Texas inventor and oil man. In\nthe 1920's, W. O. Mowers of Dallas selected this scenic point as the\nsite of a palatial country home because of its comparative isolation and\nthe view of White River 500 feet below. Being a world traveler, it\nreminded him of scenery on the Rhine River in Germany with which he was\nfamiliar, and he visualized the replica of an old German castle. The\nrock used in the construction of the building was quarried near the\nvillage of Beaver, five miles away. Each stone was cut to fit a certain\nplace in the structure and was put together like a jigsaw puzzle. The\nliving room was made 30 by 44 feet, with a huge fireplace at each end.\nPointed rock covered the exterior, following an Egyptian plan of\narchitecture.\n\nAfter spending about $80,000 on the project the Texas man was unable to\ncomplete it. In 1932, the building and several hundred acres of land\nwere purchased by Charles Reign Scoville, a noted traveling Evangelist,\nof the Christian Church. He completed the building and made it a\nregional center for evangelism and religious training. This scenic spot\noverlooking the river and the spacious valley was a great inspiration to\nthe preacher-evangelist, so he named it Inspiration Point. This name has\nnow become a permanent geographical feature. Mr. Scoville lived only a\nfew years to enjoy his dream.\n\nIn 1938, Mrs. Scoville gave the property to Phillips University of Enid,\nOklahoma, to be a Christian center where individuals and groups might\ncome for spiritual refreshment, and for study and training. The project\nhas made rapid growth during the fifteen years it has been operated as a\nservice institution. It now has an assembly hall and dormitories where\ngroups may come for a day or a week, or longer. As many as 100 persons\nmay be cared for at one time. Rev. and Mrs. George P. Rossman are\ndirectors and managers of the project.\n\nThe big attraction at the present time at Inspiration Point is the Fine\nArts Colony held for six weeks each summer. It is directed by Professor\nHenry Hobart, of Phillips University, and provides instruction in music\n(piano, organ, voice, theory, band and orchestra instruments), drama,\nspeech and painting. The opera workshop produces a light opera each\nsummer, which is taken on tour after having been produced locally.\n\nGroups begin coming to Inspiration Point in April and continue until\nNovember. Tourists are welcome at the Castle at all times of the year\nand they come by the thousands to see its unique construction and to\nview the articles of antique and historical interest left by Mr. and\nMrs. Scoville. The view of the White River Valley from \"The Point,\"\nwhich includes the ranch of Dr. and Mrs. Ross Van Pelt, is one of the\nfinest in America.\n\n    [Illustration: The Castle at Inspiration Point]\n\n\n\n\n                                  XXII\n                         DISTINGUISHED VISITORS\n\n\nEureka Springs has had many distinguished visitors during its\nseventy-five years of history. Some of them made only brief visits to\nour scenic city while others spent several weeks and returned from year\nto year. One of them who thought of Eureka Springs as an earthly\nparadise was the chewing gum king, William Wrigley, Jr.\n\nMr. Wrigley first visited Eureka Springs in 1902 and put up at the\nThatch Hotel where he spent most of the winter. He returned in the\nautumn of 1903 and spent about three months at the Chautauqua Hotel,\nlater moving to a cottage on Linwood Avenue. It has been said that no\ngreater admirer of scenic beauty ever came to the Ozarks than William\nWrigley.\n\nHis greatest pleasure was to get out on the trails on horseback with Sam\nLeath, then acting as guide in charge of the Eureka Springs Bureau of\nInformation and the Crescent stables. A canyon five miles west of the\ncity was named after him for this was one of the spots he especially\nenjoyed.\n\nThe chewing gum king, whose net income was $1,125,000 in 1904, took a\nliking to Eureka Springs and proposed to buy all the land within a\nradius of three miles of the city and make it into a public park if the\ncity authorities would agree to keep it policed and free from junk and\ngarbage. The hills and valleys were then covered with vast growths of\nvirgin timber which Mr. Wrigley wished to preserve. But the city\ngovernment turned him down and he went to Catalina Island, off the\nCalifornia coast, where he spent millions in development. Many noted\nwriters such as Zane Grey and Mary Roberts Rhinehart located on the\nisland as a result of his project.\n\nAnother famous visitor was the landscape artist, F. S. VanNess who came\nto Eureka Springs from Chicago in October, 1902. Sam Leath took him on\ntwenty-eight rides within two weeks, observing the splendor of the\nFlaming Fall Revue, but the artist did not paint a single picture. When\nMr. Leath asked him why he did not paint he replied that the color was\nbeyond his reach; that it would be an insult to the Creator to try to\nput it on canvas. Later, after the color had faded, he returned to the\nOzarks and Mr. Leath guided him over the same route. This time he\npainted profusely, both landscapes and items of human interest. Two of\nhis paintings may be seen today in the lobby of the Basin Park Hotel.\nOne portrays a group of gamblers seated around a table, the other is\nthat of old Dr. Messick on his burro which was painted in November,\n1902. Dr. Messick was a retired Chicago doctor who \"went native\" and\nspent his last days living and practicing medicine in the hills near\nEureka Springs.\n\n\n\n\n                                 XXIII\n                               HOG SCALD\n\n\nHog Scald, ten miles south of Eureka Springs is an undiscovered country,\nso far as tourists are concerned, but for riches of tradition and\nexcellence of scenic beauty it cannot be surpassed in the Ozark\nhighlands. It is a land of clear, gushing springs, laughing brooks and\ntumbling waterfalls; water everywhere, spilling over rocky ledges and\ntwisting happily through granite-lined canyons. It is a land of massive\noak, stately pine and verdant cedar, of purple grapes that cling to\nbroad leafed vines and red berries that tinge the cheeks of the hills\nwith romantic blushes. It seems a land of divine favor and it is indeed\nfitting that the early pioneers of the thirties and forties found here,\nin a temple not built with hands, the ideal place to worship God. Under\na giant ledge overlooking Hog Scald creek they held worship for more\nthan three-quarters of a century.\n\nThe sturdy people who trekked into these hills from Kentucky and\nTennessee were the salt of the earth in character. And like their\nPuritan and Cavalier sires, they did not forget to give thanks to God\nfor the Promised Land of the Ozarks. The visitor who loiters for a\nseason in this Eden of beauty will realize, a little, the influence of\nsuch an environment upon these sturdy pioneers who had their feet deeply\nset in the soil of mediocrity, so far as learning is concerned, but who\nsaw the thumb prints of God in every work of nature.\n\nThe spacious natural shelter below Auger Falls on Hog Scald creek\nattracted these settlers as a suitable place to hold religious services.\nHere was an auditorium on one side of the stream with pulpit of rock for\nthe minister, and choir stalls for the singers, in a convenient shelter\nopposite.\n\nBetween audience and minister was the immersion pool where the rites of\nbaptism could be administered without leaving the sanctuary. The drone\nof falling water from Auger Falls was just loud enough to be the grand\npiano divine, never out of tune, always doing its part to make the\nservice effective. When the minister prayed, these musical waters seemed\nto echo, \"Ho, everyone that thirsteth, come ye to the waters, and he\nthat hath no money, come ye and buy and eat--without money and without\nprice.\"\n\nIn later years Hog Scald became an active community center. It was a\nmeeting place of the settlers for such activities as butchering hogs,\ncanning wild fruits and making sorghum molasses. The idea originated\nduring the Civil War when the entire valley was a Confederate camp. The\ninviting springs and cozy shelters made it an ideal camp site. The\nshut-ins at the elbow of the falls now called Fern Dell offered\nopportunity to hem in herds of wild hogs and kill them in a cove\nconvenient to the butchering grounds.\n\nHog Scald creek secured its name from the practice of soldiers in\nscalding the wild hogs in the kettle-like holes in the rocky creek bed.\nThe water was diverted from its regular course into these holes, which\nare four or five feet deep and averaging six feet in width. The method\nof heating the water to the scalding point was done by dropping hot\nstones into the pits. The hogs were then immersed in the hot water until\ntheir hides were soaked sufficiently for the removal of the hair with a\nknife.\n\nWhen the war ended, natives of the community continued this practice and\nenlarged upon it. Families would drive many miles through the hills to\ncamp at Hog Scald, butchering hogs, canning wild fruits, and enjoying a\nfew days of social contact. And always there was church on Sunday. The\nyoung folks might play party games on the rocks Saturday night, but the\nfun ceased at midnight. Sunday was set aside for the good things of the\nsoul.\n\nIt has been said that the mills of the gods grind slowly, but the\nresults of grinding are sure. The customs of these sturdy pioneers of\nthe Ozark hills have borne fruit in a sober, righteous and contented\npeople. Who can doubt the influence of this quaint sanctuary of nature\nin the lives of these hillfolks?[20]\n\nA number of tall tales have been told about Hog Scald. An old-timer told\nVance Randolph that he lived near there in the early 1880's. He said\nthat there used to be a bramble thicket near the potholes, where the\nroad is now. \"We used to get the water good and hot,\" he explained, \"An'\nthrow the hogs in alive. They'd jump out a-squealin', an' run right\nthrough them bramble bushes. The thorns would take the bristles off\nslicker'n a whistle, so we didn't have to scrape 'em at all.\"\n\nAnother tale about Hog Scald was told to me recently. It is said to have\nhappened about the turn of the century. The lay of the land is pretty\nrugged in the Hog Scald neighborhood and one farmer had planted corn and\npumpkins on a steep hillside above the hollow. He said he did the\nplanting with a shotgun, shooting the seeds into the hillside. About the\ntime the planting was completed one of the farmer's brood sows wandered\naway and he didn't see her all that summer. When it came time to harvest\nthe crop that fall, the farmer climbed the hill, holding on to the corn\nstalks and pumpkin vines to keep from falling. The pumpkins were so big\nthat it took only about a dozen to cover an acre. In pulling himself up,\nhe accidentally tore a pumpkin loose from its bearings and it started\nrolling down the hill. At the foot of the hill it hit a low ledge of\nrock and burst open. Much to the farmer's surprise, out jumped the lost\nsow and thirteen pigs.\n\nI was telling that story down in the Basin Circle Park at Eureka Springs\none day. When I got through one of the old-timers asked me if I had ever\nheard of the big kettle the blacksmiths built at Eureka Springs in the\nyear 1901. I told him that I had never heard of it. \"Well,\" he said, \"it\nwas some kettle. It was so big that the men working on one side couldn't\nhear the men hammering on the opposite side.\" I pretended to be\nastonished and asked him what on earth they wanted with such a big\nkettle. \"Why,\" he said, solemn like, \"to stew them Hog Scald pumpkins\nin.\"\n\n    [Illustration:                                        Stafford Photo\n     Hog Scald Falls below the pits where the pioneers did the scalding]\n\n\n\n\n                                  XXIV\n                           BOUNTIES OF NATURE\n\n\n\"Never have I found a place, or a season, without beauty,\" wrote the\npoet, Charles Erskine Scott Wood.\n\nThe scenic charm of Eureka Springs is a challenge to the poet's pen and\nthe artist's brush. Each season has its own style of beauty that helps\nerase monotony from man's benighted world. Spring comes with myriad\nflowers. The lilac and the honey suckle spill their perfumes lavishly on\nthe hill and in the valley. Early summer spreads a carpet of sweet peas\nthat have escaped from gardens in years past. A little later the white\nclematis appears and wraps the whole town in beauty. Hundreds of\nvarieties of flowers, reflecting all the varied hues of Nature's prism,\nare here from early March until late November.\n\nThe tree lover in Eureka Springs has a wealth of beauty for his\nenjoyment. The elms and maples are the first heralds of spring to coax\nthe bees into action and open Nature's wooing season. Then comes the\nsarvis, wild plum, redbud, and dogwood to add perfume and color to the\nfantasia of spring. In early May the long, purple, bell-shaped flowers\nof the Paulownia trees hang from bare branches.\n\nThe Paulownia or Princess tree is a native of Russia and named for the\nPrincess Paulownia, daughter of the Czar, Paul I, who died in 1801. Its\nfruit is a green pod as large as a walnut which ripens in autumn and\nbursts open in winter to loosen the feathery seeds for the wind's\ndispersal. The broken pods cling to the tree until pushed off by new\ngrowths the following season.\n\nThe Ginkgo is one of our rarest trees. We have four of them in Eureka\nSprings, three on the Post Office grounds and one, a \"female\" tree\nproducing fruit, on the property adjacent to the Sweet Spring park. This\ntree, of Chinese origin, is said to be the oldest tree in history.\nBotanists tell us that the fern is older than the tree. The Ginkgo with\nits fern-like leaves appears to be a link between the two. The fruit\nmatures in late summer and has an offensive odor. The seed is bitter,\nbut it is said that the Chinese roast them as we do peanuts and use them\nfor food.\n\nOther interesting trees in Eureka Springs are the tulip with its\ncolorful bloom in May, the catalpas that flower in June, the magnolia\nand holly which retain their green leaves throughout the year, the cedar\nand pine, the mulberry with its artistic leaf, a buckeye or two, a lone\nfir on the Annie House property, a \"smoke tree\" at \"the Little House\nAround the Corner,\" and a dozen varieties of oaks. The black gum and\nhard maple wear gorgeous colors in the \"Flaming Fall Revue\" and have a\nhigh rating of popularity.\n\n\n\n\n                                  XXV\n                            \"UPS AND DOWNS\"\n\n\nGeographically, Eureka Springs is an \"up and down\" town. There are no\nlevel spots in the down-town area large enough for a baseball diamond or\na circus tent. This problem has been solved, however, by bulldozing off\nthe top of a mountain at the edge of town and building a stadium. We can\nnow play the great American game and hope for the visitation of a\ncircus.\n\nThe town has had its share of economic problems which it has managed to\nsolve satisfactorily. It has been temporarily down, but never out. One\nof the first blows to the local economy of the town was the removal of\nthe railroad shops in 1911. This stopped an important pay roll which the\ntown needed to balance its economy. No other industries have been\ndeveloped to take its place.\n\nFor a number of years Eureka Springs was the outstanding watering place,\nnot only in Arkansas, but throughout the entire midwest, but after the\nturn of the century other resorts became prominent and offered stiff\ncompetition. New scientific discoveries for combatting disease\ninfluenced the attitude of the people toward water as a cure-all and\nmany health resorts folded-up as a result of this policy. Eureka Springs\nheld on tenaciously but found it necessary to stress recreation along\nwith health in order to survive. As a combined health and pleasure\nresort it weathered the depression although business was at low ebb for\na number of years. Houses were torn down and the lumber shipped to\nwestern Kansas and other sections of the country. Crescent College\nclosed its doors in the early thirties and a few years later the\nCrescent Hotel was discontinued. The building was bought by Norman Baker\nin the late thirties and opened as a hospital. But this institution ran\ninto difficulties and was closed two or three years later. The Crescent,\nwhich had been opened as a hotel in 1886, remained closed during World\nWar II but in 1945 Chicago business men bought the property and\nremodeled the building. It opened as a hotel with Dwight Nichols as\nmanager in June, 1946. It is now one of the town's greatest assets.\n\nEureka Springs had a mild boom at the close of the war. Home-seekers\npoured in, bought homes, entered into business or went into retirement.\nA number of motels and other business enterprises were built and a\ncommunity began a new epoch as a resort. The population increased from a\ndepression low of about 1,700 to around 3,000 in 1954, counting the\nsuburban areas. Civic improvements included paving the streets, the\nvoting of bonds for revamping the sewer system, the sinking of a deep\nwell to secure an adequate water supply, and the erection of an ultra\nmodern public school building. Several of the churches of the town have\nrepaired their buildings, or built new additions, and improved their\nfacilities. Business buildings have been enlarged and improved and many\nnew homes built. The tourist season now opens in April and continues\nuntil November with a few winter visitors. It is estimated that about\n150,000 tourists visit Eureka Springs during the year. Some make only\nbrief stops, others stay two or three weeks for rest and recreation.\n\nEureka Springs has become a popular retirement city and the people of\nthis class add substantially to the town's economy, but the bulk of the\nrevenue is from the tourist trade. Since this business is seasonable, a\nfew small industries are needed to provide pay rolls and help balance\nthe economy. Writers, artists and craftsmen find this the ideal location\nfor their activities.\n\nEureka Springs has had its ups and downs through the years with a\nleveling off toward normalcy since the mild boom following the war. With\nTable Rock Dam on White River assured, and Beaver Dam farther up the\nstream a possibility, the outlook for the future is bright. The town\nwill continue as a combined health and pleasure resort, an art and\nretirement center, a literary mecca, and a haven for hobbiests. It is\ndeveloping a festival atmosphere which has the earmarks of permanency.\n\n    [Illustration: Modern public school building erected at Eureka\n    Springs in 1951.]\n\n\n\n\n                                  XXVI\n                        THE STORY OF BLUE SPRING\n\n\nI came, I saw, I concurred that Blue Spring is one of Mother Nature's\nmiracles. It was a quarter of a century ago when I first visited this\nlovely spot, located seven miles northwest of Eureka Springs. Since that\ntime I have been a frequent visitor to this liquid giant from the\nunknown.\n\nBlue Spring is the outlet of a subterranean river with a constant flow\nof about 38,000,000 gallons of pure water daily. It rises straight up\nfrom its mysterious bed, forming a circle about seventy feet in\ndiameter. The depth is unknown. Soundings have been made, once in the\nnineties, the old-timers say, with strong bed cord attached to a 125\npound anvil, and again near the turn of the century by a party of\nengineers who let a 16 pound hammer down 512 feet. Neither weight\nreached bottom. The pressure of the water was sufficient to defy\npenetration into the blue depths.\n\nThe water taken from this spring is clear, white and transparent as\nplate glass, but the water in the spring is blue in appearance.\nSometimes it is almost indigo in hue, but when taken out of the spring\nis white and transparent. A geologist who tested the water recently\nexpressed the opinion that it is glacial water similar to that of Lake\nLouise in the Pacific Northwest. It was the opinion of some of the\nold-timers who lived near the spring that the water came from Kings\nRiver twenty miles to the east. When this stream was on the rise, the\nspring had increased flow, so they said.\n\nMany legends have been handed down about this famous spring. One of them\nis that Spanish adventurers who supposedly invaded the Ozark country in\nthe latter part of the eighteenth century, sunk a mine shaft at the\npresent location of Blue Spring. They walled the shaft with logs.\nSeveral hundred feet down they struck an underground river and a\ngeyser-like eruption occurred. Then it settled down and became a\npeaceful river with the old mine shaft as an outlet. The pioneer English\nsettlers named it Blue Spring because of the blueness of the water.\n\nThis spring was once the site of an Indian encampment, according to Sam\nA. Leath who is an authority on Indian lore in the Ozarks. The cliffs\nhad hieroglyphics to tell the story, but most of them have been erased\nby the hand of time. Numerous arrow heads and Indian relics have been\nfound in the vicinity. The historic \"Trail of Tears\" over which the\nCherokees trekked, passed near Blue Spring.\n\nThe pioneers saw economic possibilities in this vast flow of water and\nbuilt a dam a few hundred yards below the spring near where the spring\nbranch enters White River. A flouring and saw mill, operated by a\nturbine, was built on that spot. But the mill is now gone and only the\nturbine remains. Plans were once made to pipe the water to the railroad\nsome three miles away and ship it for drinking purposes. No analysis of\nthe water is available, but it is said to be soft and pure.\n\nThe dam below the spring forms a moss-lined lagoon that is a picture out\nof the book. Rainbow trout sport in the crystal water to test the angler\nwho tempts them with his lure.\n\nBlue Spring with its 400 acres of enchanted woodlands in a horseshoe\nbend of White River is owned and operated by Mrs. Evan Booth, formerly\nof Chicago. She lives in a picturesque modern cottage overlooking the\nspring and lagoon and keeps the project open the year around as a\ntourist attraction.\n\n    [Illustration: Blue Spring.]\n\n\n\n\n                                 XXVII\n                           SCENIC ATTRACTIONS\n\n\nOne of the great attractions of Eureka Springs as a tourist resort is\nits scenery. In both the city and the adjacent countryside we have folds\nof hills that please the eye of the observer and captivate his fancy. \"I\nwill look unto the hills from whence cometh my help.\" The hills and\nhollows of the Western District of Carroll County have been a lure for\ntourists for three-quarters of a century. Combined with the springs of\npure water, this scenery is perhaps our greatest asset. No where in the\nOzarks do the hills lift their flinty shoulders to the sky in more\npicturesque form than in the vicinity of Eureka Springs.\n\nThis region is traversed by two crystal rivers, the White and the Kings,\nand numerous smaller spring-fed streams. It is interesting to know these\nstreams and visualize their scenic attributes on the calendar of the\nyear.\n\nThe Eureka Springs country has many scenic oddities. Pivot Rock, two\nmiles north of town, is a natural curiosity, featured in Ripley's\n\"Believe It or Not.\" It stands 15 feet high, is 30 feet in diameter at\nthe top, and has a stem or base that measures about 16 inches. Nearby is\na Natural Bridge, small but perfectly formed.\n\nIn the Hog Scald country, ten miles south of Eureka Springs, and\nPenitentiary Hollow, a few miles beyond, there are 16 beautiful\nwaterfalls, several of which are not seen by tourists because of their\nisolated location. Jim Oliver's Revilo Ranch south of town is a beauty\nspot in the sheltered hills which tourists enjoy. \"The Narrows\" and the\nvillage of Beaver on White River provide views that are worth going to\nsee.\n\nInspiration Point, six miles west on U. S. 62, is one of the most scenic\nviews in the Ozarks. Other views along the Skyline Drive have similar\nattraction. Blue Spring, a mile from the Point, is a beauty spot that\nalmost defies the pen of man to describe it. Onyx Cave is a must for the\ntourist who enjoys subterranean scenery. It is located 7 miles northeast\nof Eureka Springs and is open all year.\n\nThe town of Eureka Springs itself is a scenic attraction that never\ngrows old. The views from East Mountain, Trail's End and the top of the\nCrescent Hotel on West Mountain all help add to the town's reputation as\nthe \"Switzerland of America.\"\n\n\n\n\n                                 XXVIII\n                          THE BASIN PARK HOTEL\n\n\nThe Daily Times-Echo of Eureka Springs on April 24, 1905, carried the\nfollowing announcement:\n\n\"The first grand opening of the Basin Park Hotel, now nearing\ncompletion, will take place July 1, and the event promises to be one of\nthe grandest in the history of Eureka Springs. T. J. Brumfield, under\nwhose management the Hotel Wadsworth has been so successful, and who has\nearned the reputation of being one of the best caterers in the South,\nhas been selected as manager for this splendid hostelry, which is an\nassurance of a large patronage.\n\n\"This grand structure was built by W. M. Duncan and his associates, and\ncontains one hundred guest rooms in addition to spacious parlors and\ndens.... The hotel will be conducted strictly on the European plan, in\nconnection with a first-class cafe on the second floor, occupying the\nentire depth of the north end of the building on this floor.... A\nspecial feature and a most attractive one is the feasible plan of easy\nfire escapes, as from each story to the Basin Park reservation, back of\nthe hotel, iron bridges will be built so that in case of fire the entire\nhouse, were it crowded, could be emptied in three minutes. There is\ncomplete fire protection throughout the building, although it is\npractically fire-proof.... The cost of this hotel in its entirety,\nincluding furnishings, will exceed $50,000....\"\n\nThe grand opening mentioned above took place July 1, 1905, forty-nine\nyears ago and the hotel has been in continuous operation since that\ndate. If it were built today it would cost several times as much as it\ndid half a century ago.\n\nThe Basin Park occupies a central position in the down-town section of\nEureka Springs and is adjacent to the Basin Circle Park which contains\nthe famous Basin Spring. The structure has been featured in Ripley's\n\"Believe It or Not\" as \"An eight story hotel with every floor a ground\nfloor.\" Bridge-walks at the rear of the building lead to the Basin Park\nReservation, a wooded tract owned by the city and originally containing\ntwenty-eight acres. The top floor contains the popular Roof Garden and\nBall Room. The hotel is strictly modern throughout with automatic\nelevator and bath facilities.\n\nThe Basin Park changed ownership several times in the half-century, but\nthe man most closely associated with its operation through the years is\nClaude A. Fuller, attorney and former mayor and congressman. The hotel\nwas owned and managed by Joe Parkhill, nephew of Mr. Fuller, from 1945\nto 1954. Early this year it was purchased by Mr. and Mrs. Pat Mathews.\nMrs. Mathews is the former Dorothy Fuller, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. C.\nA. Fuller. The Mathews have added new furnishings and made other\nimprovements since assuming management.\n\n\n\n\n                                  XXIX\n                              THE CRESCENT\n\n\n  Although upon a summer day,\n  You'll lightly turn from me away,\n  When autumn leaves are scattered wide,\n  You'll often linger by my side.\n  But when the snow the earth doth cover,\n  Then you will be my ardent lover.\n\nThis homely verse, carved in stone above the fireplace in the spacious\nlobby of the Crescent Hotel, is a reminder that comfort is an\noutstanding feature in a hotel. In this \"Castle in the Air High Atop the\nOzarks\" we find comfort combined with convenience in a big way. This\nmagnificent hostelry requires but little introduction to people familiar\nwith Summer Resorts. It stands on a high point overlooking Eureka\nSprings and the view from the Lookout, a-top the hotel, is one of the\nfinest in the Ozarks. The Crescent is a five story stone, fire-proof\nbuilding with twenty-seven acres of grounds. It represents an investment\nof over $300,000 in 1884-1886 and would cost three or four times that\namount to build it today. It has large rooms, wide verandas, and sun\nparlors and can easily accommodate two hundred and fifty guests. It is\nequipped with swimming pool, tennis courts, shuffle board, horseshoe\ncourts, bowling alley, pool and billiard tables, recreational rooms, and\nprovides scenic bus trips, horseback riding, hay-rides, barbecues,\nwiener roasts, and dancing for the entertainment of guests. The food\nserved in the dining room has been famous for more than half a century.\nThe Crescent is popular with both convention groups and the general\npublic.\n\nThe Crescent Hotel was erected by the Eureka Improvement Company in\n1884-1886. The board of directors was composed of Powell Clayton, R. C.\nKerens, C. W. Rogers, Logan H. Roots, John O'Day, James Dunn, B. Baker\nand D. A. Nichols. Powell Clayton was president of the company, Logan H.\nRoots, treasurer and H. Foote, secretary. Isaac S. Taylor was the\narchitect. It had its grand opening May 1, 1886. In 1902 when the Frisco\nRailroad took it over it was remodeled with Guy Crandall Morimer as\narchitect.\n\nSome of the board of directors of the Crescent Hotel Company were\nstockholders in the Frisco Railroad and it was probably through their\ninfluence that the Frisco leased the hotel in 1902 for a period of five\nyears. One of the conditions of the lease was that at least $50,000 be\nspent on furnishings and improvements. This was done and the hotel was\nwidely advertised by the railroad company.\n\nDuring the first twenty-two years of its existence, the Crescent was\noperated as a year-round hotel but in 1908 the Crescent College for\ngirls was organized and the building became a school from September\nuntil June and continued as a hotel during the three summer months. A.\nS. Maddox was the first president of the college. R. R. (Dick) Thompson\nbecame president in 1910 and continued in this capacity until the middle\ntwenties. The institution was then taken over by Claude Fuller, Albert\nIngalls and W. T. Patterson and operated for a few years. A. Q. Burns\nbecame president of the college in 1929 and served for three or four\nyears. The college was closed permanently in 1933.\n\nIn 1936 the property was sold to Norman Baker who turned it into a\nhospital. This institution lasted about two years and when it folded up\nthe building remained vacant until 1946. In the spring of that year it\nwas bought by four Chicago men--John R. Constantine, Herbert E. Shutter,\nHerbert A. Byfield, and Dwight Nichols. It was reopened July 4, 1946\nwith Mr. Nichols as manager.\n\nThe Crescent Hotel now specializes in \"package tours\" from Chicago and\nother cities and remains open from April 1 to December 1. It is again\nassociated with the Frisco Railroad for most of the guests come to\nMonett, Missouri by train and are transported by Crescent buses through\nthe scenic hills to Eureka Springs. The regular \"package\" tour is of six\ndays duration and provides room, meals and entertainment.\n\nWe wonder why this hotel was named \"The Crescent.\" The word, crescent,\nrefers to the shape of the increasing or new moon when it is receding\nfrom the sun. It is often used as an emblem of progress and success. The\nsymbol was popular in heraldry and was used by at least three orders of\nknighthood, first instituted by Charles I of Naples and Sicily in 1268;\nthe second instituted at Angiers by Rene of Anjou in 1464; the third\ninstituted by Selim, Sultan of Turkey in 1801 in honor of Lord Nelson.\nIt is both a religious and military emblem of the Ottoman Turks. In\narchitecture, the word refers to a range of buildings in the form of a\ncrescent or half-moon. Some of the stone work of the Crescent Hotel is\nin the form of a crescent and this may have given the building its name.\nPersonally, we like to think of it as an emblem of progress and success\nin the hotel world.\n\n\n\n\n                                  XXX\n                             HOTEL HISTORY\n\n\nEureka Springs entertains 150,000 or more tourists annually and it has\nneed of numerous hotels, motels and courts to provide adequate housing\nfor these guests. During its seventy-five years as a resort, it has had\nmore than 100 establishments of this class. One of the first of these\nhotels was the St. Charles on North Main Street, opened by Powell\nClayton in 1882. It was first called the Clayton House. The Grand\nCentral was opened in 1883. Two years (1884-1886) were spent in building\nthe Crescent which opened May 1, 1886. The Palace opened in May, 1901.\nThe Wadsworth was dedicated February 14, 1902. The name was changed to\nThe Allred a few years later. In 1949 it was purchased by Cecil Maberry\nand renamed The Springs. In August, 1954, it was purchased by Gale\nReeves and many improvements made. The Basin Park Hotel was opened for\nguests May 5, 1905 and had its \"grand opening\" July 1. The site was\nformerly occupied by the Perry House, which was destroyed in the big\nfire of 1888. The building that housed the Lansing Hotel (Carthage\nHouse) still stand on Center Street. The Landaker is another of the\nolder hotels now used as an apartment house. The Southern, just south of\nthe Basin Circle, was destroyed by fire in 1935. The Thach, popular with\nTexans, was destroyed by fire in 1932. The Belden at Lion Spring was\nonce a popular hotel.\n\nOther hotels and boarding houses that once served the public, are: The\nAntlers, Barretts, Baker House, Crim House, Calef, Calohan, Corrs,\nCallender, Chautauqua, Crescent Cottage, Dieu, Davey, Drains, Dell Mont,\nGlenwood, Gable, Guffey's, The Gables, Holman, Hancock, Harvey House,\nHodges, Illinois, Josephine, Kimberlings, Lindell, Lawrence, Main,\nMountain Home, Maplewood, Magnetic, New National, New St. Louis,\nPhoenix, Piedmont, Pickards, Pence, Reynolds, Sweet Spring, Sweet\nSprings Home, Sweet Spring Flats, Silver, Swankey, Sawyer, St. Louis,\nTulsa, Tweely's, Valley, Vestal Cottage, White Elephant, Wards, Williams\nCottage, Washington and Waverly.\n\nEureka Springs visitors now have choice of hotels (European or American\nplan) or motels and motor courts. A big percentage of our tourists\npatronize the motels and courts of which there are twenty or more in\nEureka Springs and vicinity. They range all the way from comfortable\nmodern cabins to deluxe motels and resorts which are the last word in\ncomfort and convenience. Most of them are conveniently located on U. S.\nHighway 62.\n\n\n\n\n                                  XXXI\n                           \"BACKWOODS BARON\"\n\n\nIn my opinion, the man most closely associated with Eureka Springs in a\nbusiness and political way during the past half century is the Hon.\nClaude A. Fuller. He has always had the interests of his hometown at\nheart and his leadership is outstanding. Born in Springhill, Illinois\nJanuary 20, 1876, he came westward with his parents when a young lad\nand, at the age of fifteen, settled at Eureka Springs. His first job was\nwith pick and shovel at Sanitarium Lake, now Lake Lucerne. When the\nstreet car line was constructed from the Auditorium (now Harmon\nPlaygrounds) to the Basin Spring, he was employed as waterboy. He\ncarried all the spikes that coupled the rails. Upon completion of the\nline he became mule driver, then conductor. Later he was the attorney\nfor the road.\n\nClaude attended the Eureka Springs High School and graduated in the\nclass of 1896. He decided upon law as his profession, attended the Kent\nLaw School at Chicago and was admitted to the bar in 1898. On December\n25, 1899, he married Miss May Obenshain, his hometown sweetheart. The\nFullers have had three children; a son who died in infancy, and two\ndaughters, Ruth Marie (Mrs. John S. Cross), and Dorothy M. (Mrs. Pat\nMathews). They have five grandchildren.\n\nMr. Fuller began his official career as city clerk at Eureka Springs in\n1898 and served four years. He was then elected state representative for\nCarroll County and served from 1902 to 1906. In 1907, he was elected\nmayor of Eureka Springs by a handsome majority. He served in this\ncapacity until 1910, and again from 1920 until 1928. During his terms of\noffice many improvements were made in the city such as the building of\nthe municipal auditorium, the extending of the dam at the city\nreservoir, the erection of filter basins, and the extension of water and\nsewer mains. He served four years as prosecuting attorney (1910-1914).\n\nDuring all these years, Mr. Fuller was ambitious to represent his\ndistrict in Congress. He tried in 1914, but was defeated by a small\nmargin. In 1928 he was successful and served ten years as Congressman.\nHe was a member of the Ways and Means Committee which is one of the\npowerful committees of the House. Through his efforts Lake Leatherwood\nwas built as a government project. In 1938 he returned to his private\npractice of law at Eureka Springs and has kept his office open ever\nsince. He is one of the best known attorneys in Arkansas.\n\nClaude A. Fuller's rise in the business world was rapid. He was a good\ntrader and knew how to invest his money. He and his brother purchased\nthe Eureka Springs Railway which they held for one year and sold for a\nprofit of $10,000. In 1925, he purchased the Crescent Hotel which he\nheld for four years and sold. In 1926 he became owner of the Basin Park\nHotel but sold it when he went to Congress. In the banking business, he\nbecame president of the Bank of Eureka Springs, a position he still\nholds. His pet project is his ranch on White River where he raises\nthorobred white face cattle. Mr. Fuller is a member of the Baptist\nChurch, belongs to the Elks Fraternity, and is an active Rotarian.\n\nIn 1951, Frank L. Beals published a biography of Claude Fuller entitled,\n\"Backwood's Baron.\" Mr. Beals said: \"In Claude's realistic approach to\nlife, the law, and politics go hand in hand. He never aspired to purify\nany of the three, he just took them as he found them and bent them to\nhis own purposes. He never swam against the current, he floated with it,\ntaking advantage of the flotsam and jetsam that were going his way to\nmake secure his own passage.\"\n\nMr. Fuller has received many honors during his long, eventful life. One\nthat he is especially proud of is the Distinguished Citizenship Award\npresented to him by the Eureka Springs Chamber of Commerce on March 31,\n1951, in recognition of his efficient service as a director of the\norganization. The award is signed by the Awards Committee: Harry Wilk,\nDwight O. Nichols, Joe A. Morris, Paul Smart, Cecil Maberry and Richard\nThompson.\n\nAt the end of the book, \"Backwood's Baron,\" Mr. Beals says: \"Oliver\nWendell Holmes (Jr.) in a radio address on his ninetieth birthday, might\nwell have been speaking of Claude Albert Fuller when he said:\n\n'The riders in a race do not stop short when they reach the goal. There\nis a little finishing canter before coming to a standstill. There is\ntime to hear the kind voice of friends and to say to one's self, 'Thy\nwork is done.' But just as one says that, the answer comes: 'The race is\nover, but the work never is done while the power to work remains.' The\ncanter that brings you to a standstill need not be only coming to rest.\nIt cannot be, while you still live. For to live is to function. That is\nall there is in living.'\"\n\n\n\n\n                                 XXXII\n                       WRITERS AND ARTISTS' MECCA\n\n\nEureka Springs probably has more writers than any other town of its size\nin the nation. Since World War II an astonishing number of books have\nbeen authored by residents of the \"Stair-Step-Town.\" Some of these\nwriters have been producing novels, short stories, feature articles and\npoetry for a quarter of a century; others have appeared only recently on\nthe literary horizon.\n\nVance Randolph, Ozark folklorist, is the author of fifteen major books\nand hundreds of pamphlets and feature articles. His books on the Ozarks,\nas listed in \"Who's Who in America,\" are \"The Ozarks: An American\nSurvival of Primitive Society\" (1931); \"Ozark Mountain Folks\" (1932);\n\"From an Ozark Holler\" (1933); \"Ozark Outdoors\" (1934); \"The Camp on\nWildcat Creek\" (1934); \"The Camp-Meeting Murders\" (with Nancy Clemons)\n(1936); \"An Ozark Anthology\" (1940); \"Ozark Folksongs\" in four volumes\n(1946-50); \"Ozark Superstitions\" (1947); \"We Always Lie to Strangers\"\n(1951); \"Who Blowed Up the Churchhouse\" (1952); \"Down in the Holler: A\nGallery of Ozark Folk Speech\" (1935).\n\nGlenn Ward Dresbach is recognized as one of America's leading poets. He\nhas produced a number of books and contributed to leading national\nmagazines for a number of years. His latest book: \"Collected Poems,\n1912-1948,\" was published in 1950. Beverley Githens (Mrs. Glenn Ward\nDresbach) writes both poetry and prose. Her \"No Splendor Perishes\" won\nthe Dierkes Poetry award in 1946.\n\nMajor Frank L. Beals is author of \"The Ancient Name\" (1937); \"Look Away\nDixieland,\" a novel (1937); The American Adventure Series of books\n(1941-45); \"Boswell in Chicago\" (1946); The Famous Story Series\n(1946-50); \"Backwoods Baron\" (1951).\n\nMarge Lyon has produced four books on Arkansas and the Ozarks. They are:\n\"Take to the Hills\" (1942); \"And the Green Grass Grows All Round\"\n(1943); \"Fresh from the Hills\" (1945); \"Hurrah for Arkansas\" (1947). Her\n\"And So to Bedlam\" (1944) is set in Chicago. Mrs. Lyon has a column\nentitled \"Marge of Sunrise Mountain Farm\" in the Sunday Chicago Tribune.\n\nEverett and Olga Webber, a husband and wife writer-team, have authored\ntwo novels: \"Rampart Street\" (1948) and \"Bound Girl\" (1949). \"Rampart\nStreet\" sold more than a million copies in all editions. The Webbers\ncontribute short stories to a number of magazines, including the\nSaturday Evening Post. We expect a new book from them soon.\n\nFrances Donovan, retired school teacher from Chicago, writes on\nsociological subjects. Her books are: \"The Sales Lady\" (1929); \"The\nSchool Ma'am\" (1938) and \"The Woman Who Waits.\" At the present time she\nis working on a sociological study of Eureka Springs.\n\nCora Pinkley Call is author of \"Pioneer Tales of Eureka Springs\" (1930);\n\"Shifting Sands\" (1943); \"The Dream Garden\" (1944); \"From My Ozark\nCupboard\" (1950); \"Eureka Springs: Stair-Step Town\" (1952). Mrs. Call is\npresident of the Ozark Artists and Writers Guild.\n\nConstance Wagner is a short story writer and novelist. Her latest novel,\n\"Sycamore,\" came from the press in 1950. Dr. Bonnie Lela Crump writes\nfeature stories and has published a number of booklets. Morris Hull\nspecializes on confession and human interest stories and contributes to\nthe leading magazines in this field. He is the author of the novel,\n\"Cannery Annie,\" published several years ago. Bill Dierkes of the\nDierkes Press is author of three books of poetry: \"Gold Nuggets,\"\n(1928); \"The Man from Vermont,\" (1935); and \"Emerge with the Swallow,\"\n(1944).\n\nI began writing about the Ozarks in 1925 and have written and published\nabout one million words on the history and folklore of the region. My\nbooks, to date, are: \"An Ozarker Looks at Life,\" (1927); \"Dream Dust,\"\n(1924); \"Roadside Chats,\" (1939); and \"Ozark Country\" of the American\nFolkways Series (1941). Most of my writing has been for magazines and\nnewspapers and for my own Ozarkian publications: \"Ozark Life,\"\n(1925-30), \"Arcadian Magazine,\" (1931-32), \"Arcadian Life Magazine,\"\n(1933-42), and \"Rayburn's Ozark Guide,\" (1942 to the present time).\n\nIn addition to the authors who have produced books, there are a score or\nmore of writers in Eureka Springs who write for magazines and\nnewspapers. Some of them are professionals, others write for their own\npleasure. If all the stories, articles and poems produced in this town\nwere assembled into books and placed alongside the volumes already\npublished, it would make a sizeable library. Not many communities can\nboast of such a literary output.\n\nEureka Springs has been a mecca for artists for many years. Several\nyears ago, Louis and Elsie Freund bought Hatchet Hall, the old home of\nCarry A. Nation, and made it into an art center. For several years they\nconducted a summer art school. Other Eureka Springs artists, whose works\nI have observed are: William Farnum, Fred Swedlun, Glenn Swedlun, Lester\nM. Exley, W. F. Von Telligan, Mr. and Mrs. L. V. Orsinger, Verne\nStanley, Virginia Tyler, Art Foster and Bonnie Lela Crump. I am sure\nthere are others who deserve mention but I have not seen their work.\nMost of the above are professional artists who work with oils and water\ncolors. Some do pen sketches. Thousands of paintings and drawings have\nbeen made of the scenery and quaintness of Eureka Springs during its\nseventy-five years of history. If all of these creative products could\nbe placed on exhibition at one time it would make a row of pictures\nmiles long.\n\n\n\n\n                                 XXXIII\n                          THE OLD AND THE NEW\n\n\nTime marches on and not many of the men and women of the pioneer\neighties are with us today. Among those who are native born or who came\nin their youth when the town was a booming spa are: Mrs. Annie House,\nJim Bradley, Mrs. Fred West, Mrs. Wilma Jarrett Ellis, Mrs. C. A.\nFuller, Mrs. Louis Haneke, Mrs. May S. Miller, Mrs. Chrystal Lyle,\nWallace McQuerry, Otis McGinnis, Joe Hoskins, Mr. and Mrs. Joe Porch,\nSam Riley, E. A. Jordan, Tom Walker, Walter Burris, T. L. Hawley, Mrs.\nClaude Pike, Charlie Perry, Mrs. Maud Woodruff, Frank Pickard, Mrs.\nAlice Campbell, Mrs. Lida Mae Roberts, and perhaps a few others. Most of\nthese older residents now live in retirement, but a few are active in\nbusiness.\n\nEarly in the twentieth century we find F. O. Butt on the stage of action\nas a practicing attorney. Mr. Butt served his district as senator in the\nstate legislature, was mayor of Eureka Springs for two terms and\nnewspaper editor for a number of years. He is still on the job as a\npracticing attorney.\n\nR. R. (Dick) Thompson came to Eureka Springs in 1908 as a teacher in\nCrescent College and later became president of the institution. In the\nmiddle twenties he established his Lake Lucerne Resort and the Ozarka\nWater Company and now devotes his time to the management of these two\nconcerns.\n\nClaude A. Fuller began practicing law in 1898 and has been closely\nconnected with the business interests of the town since that date. Mrs.\nAnnie House, \"the oldest newspaper woman in Arkansas,\" came to Eureka\nSprings as a child in 1880. Sam A. Leath, our guide and historian, has\nhad an active part in civic affairs since 1898. He has been connected\nwith the Chamber of Commerce for many years. Jim Bradley, Joe Porch and\nTom Walker are all old-timers who continue in business.\n\nIt would take many pages to list all the men and women, now dead or\nmoved away, who contributed to the building of the town. I name only a\nfew whom I have special reason to remember--Charley Stehm, Major J. W.\nTrue, Claude Pike, Harvey Fuller, Floyd Walker, W. N. Duncan, Dr. C. E.\nDavis, B. J. Rosewater, Dr. C. F. Ellis, Prof. C. S. Barnett, W. O.\nPerkins, Col. C. D. James, Mrs. Adelaide Wayland, Albert G. Ingalls, A.\nQ. Burns, William Kappen, H. T. Pendergrass, Dr. J. S. Porch, A. L.\nHess, Major W. E. Penn, Earl Newport, Louie Webber, Louie Haneke, Eaton\nCole, Dr. J. F. John, Dr. J. H. Webb, Dr. Charles Bergstresser, Dr.\nPearl Tateman, Arch Kimberling, George Hardy, Harry Wickham, Lucien\nGray, B. L. Rosser, Miss Nellie Mills, Mrs. Ida Wilhelm, A. J. Fortner,\nMr. and Mrs. George Hurt, Dr. J. H. Huntington, Herman and Hugo Seidel,\nL. E. Lines, John Jennings, Dr. R. G. Floyd and M. M. Chandler. This\nlist is very inadequate but, as stated above, it includes only those\nthat I have special reason to remember. In the books written on Eureka\nSprings by Nellie Mills and Cora Pinkley Call will be found more\ncomplete lists of the old residents.\n\nIt took World War II to start an influx of homeseekers toward the\nOzarks. This invasion came as an aftermath of the war and Eureka Springs\nreceived its share. At the opportune time, Marge Lyon and her genial\nhusband, Robert (\"the jedge\"), moved into the community and Marge began\ntelling the story of Eureka Springs and the Ozarks to a vast audience of\nreaders with her column, \"Marge of Sunrise Mountain Farm\" in the Chicago\nTribune. Marge was influential in starting thousands of people in quest\nof the fuller life of the countryside. Retirement people flocked to\nEureka Springs to buy homes; others came to go into business. By 1950,\nEureka Springs had been given the nickname, \"Little Chicago,\" because of\nthe large number of people from that area.\n\nThe town of Eureka Springs owes Marge Lyon a vast debt of gratitude. Her\nlucid lines have lured thousands of visitors to the hills, many of whom\ncame to stay and are now happily located far from the city's noise and\nconfusion. They have helped balance the town's economy and have added to\nthe culture and social life of the community.\n\nIn 1946, I located Ozark Guide magazine at Eureka Springs and have given\nthe community a national journalistic voice that has an influence in\nbringing both tourists and homeseekers. Eureka Springs is the only Ozark\ntown having an Ozark magazine with national spread. It lays the magic\ncarpet for exit from the confusion of the city to the land of Ozark\nenchantment.\n\nThe assimilation of the newcomers into the social and economic life of\nthe town has been successful. The ratio of newcomers to natives is now\nabout fifty-fifty. It is almost impossible to tell an old-timer from a\nnewcomer. The melting pot is doing its work.\n\n                            * * * * * * * *\n\nEureka Springs is one of the two cities in Arkansas having a commission\nform of government. The other city is Fort Smith. In 1918, this system\nwas adopted for our town. It provides for a commission of three persons,\none of whom is selected to act as mayor. The present commission is\ncomposed of Mayor A. J. Russell, Ray Freeman and Col. C. C. King. Mr.\nRussell has been mayor for fourteen years.\n\nEureka Springs is a city of churches with the following denominations:\nPresbyterian, Methodist, Baptist, Christian, Assembly of God Nazarene,\nEpiscopalian, Christian Science and Catholic. The Presbyterians have the\noldest church building. It was built in 1886 following the completion of\nthe Crescent Hotel. The same stone masons built both buildings.\n\nThe school system of the city is one of the best in the South. A modern\nbuilding was erected in 1951 and it is the last word in convenience.\nBoth the elementary and high schools have \"A\" ratings.\n\nEureka Springs has a full quota of civic, fraternal and patriotic\norganizations such as: the Masons, Elks, I.O.O.F., Rotarians, Lions,\nAmerican Legion, Chamber of Commerce, Tourist Council, Woman's Club,\nMusic Club, Ozark Artists and Writers Guild, home demonstration clubs,\nand others. The American Legion hut is one of the finest in the state.\nThe social life of the community is enriched with many cultural and\nrecreational activities throughout the year.\n\nWe have a modern post office building with Cecil Walker as postmaster.\nCarroll County is one of the nine or ten counties of Arkansas that have\ntwo county seats. It has courthouses both at Berryville and Eureka\nSprings. Our courthouse is secondary but represents the western district\nof the county and has offices for both county and city officials, a\ncourt room, and a jail which is vacant most of the time.\n\nModern comforts and conveniences make Eureka Springs a pleasant place to\nlive. Electricity is supplied at reasonable rates by the Southwestern\nGas and Electric Company. Natural gas was installed in the late forties\nby the Arkansas Western Gas Company. This fuel is both convenient and\ninexpensive and a great asset to the town. The municipal water supply is\nadequate for any emergency. The city lake is fed by sixteen springs, and\na deep well, dug recently. Bonds were voted a year or two ago for the\nrebuilding of the city's sewer system and the disposal plant. Most of\nthe streets of the city are paved. Telephones are available for both\nbusiness and home use.\n\nFor recreation, we have the Harmon Playgrounds, equipped with playground\nequipment and stage, and lights for night use. It has a playground\nsupervisor during the summer months. The city auditorium seats about\n1200 people and is the town's amusement center for shows, concerts and\nfestivals. The Basin Circle Park is equipped with seats and has a stage\nfor concerts and other entertainments. The New Basin Theatre, owned and\noperated by Cecil Maberry, is air conditioned and has a change of\nprogram three times a week. The American Legion sponsors square dancing\nat the city auditorium on Saturday nights. Throughout the week there is\ndancing at the Basin Park and Crescent hotels. Other recreation features\nof the community are: swimming at Lake Lucerne, Lake Leatherwood, the\nCamp Joy pool, and Kings and White rivers; fishing and boating at Lake\nLeatherwood and the rivers; White River float trips; golf at Lake\nLucerne; horseback riding, scenic motor drives, and hiking. Places of\ninterest to tourists include: Onyx Cave, Inspiration Point, The Castle,\nBlue Spring, Quigley's Castle, Pivot Rock and Natural Bridge, the Ozark\nMuseum, Hatchet Hall, Birdhaven, the Bracken Doll Museum, the Old Rock\nHouse, the springs (63 of them), the Basin Circle Park, Harmon\nPlaygrounds, St. Elizabeth Church, the views from East Mountain and the\ntop of the Crescent Hotel, the Narrows, Beaver, White River, Kings\nRiver, Hog Scald, Penitentiary Hollow and Revilo Ranch.\n\nEureka Springs has two bath houses and a modern hospital. It has two\nprinting plants, one of which publishes the Eureka Springs Times-Echo\nand prints Rayburn's Ozark Guide. The volunteer fire department has a\nnew truck and modern equipment, and the city police force is adequate\nfor local needs. The town has modern motels and cafes, most of which\nremain open through the year. Outstanding antique and gift shops are\nlocated here. Practically all lines of mercantile business and services\nare represented at Eureka Springs. We have one bank, four lawyers, three\ndoctors, one optometrist and one undertaker.\n\nIn 1948, Eureka Springs had its first Ozark Folk Festival, directed by\nRobert Serviss. Mr. Serviss got the backing of a number of local\nbusiness men and formed the Folk Festival Association. Serviss directed\nthe festival again in 1949. During the next two years, the late Harry\nWilk, who was president of the Chamber of Commerce, and Ned Bailey,\nsecretary of the organization, put on the festival and extended it from\nthree days to a full week. In 1952, the Festival Association was\nincorporated and Grover Roark elected president. I directed the\nfestivals in 1952, 1953 and 1954. In 1954 people from twenty-seven\nstates attended this event. The festival, held in mid-October, has\ndeveloped into an immense jamboree and attracts thousands of visitors.\n\n\n\n\n                                 XXXIV\n                          UNUSUAL ENTERPRISES\n\n\nOne of the treasured thoroughfares of Old Eureka Springs was the foot\nbridge which spanned the canyon at the rear of the stone building, now\nthe Sweet Spring Apartments. The south terminus of this unusual\nstructure was at the rear of Jim Black's shoe shop. It was a short cut\nto the business section on Spring Street in the vicinity of Sweet,\nHarding and Crescent Springs. The original Sweet Spring was in the\nhollow at the rear of the post office to the left of the bridge. This\nspring was tapped higher up on the bluff when Spring Street was laid\nout.\n\nAnother unusual structure was the \"Bridge Studio\" built by Sam A. Leath\nand Steele Kennedy in 1931. The site of this covered bridge, built for\nartists and writers, was at the tourist court owned by these two\nmen--Camp Leath, now Mount Air. It was built across a ravine at the rear\nof the court and was a little more than 100 feet in length. Leath and\nKennedy were the sole builders of this structure and their methods stand\nunique in the annals of engineering. The two ends of the bridge were\nbuilt alternately, section by section, coming together in the center.\nAfter building one end, the opposite position was accurately located by\nKennedy with a small bore rifle. A board was held by Leath at the north\nend of the bridge, indicating where the top deck at that point would be.\nKennedy placed the shot at the exact point desired. The trueness of the\nshot was later proved with a level when the two approaches were closed\nwith the central span.\n\nThe \"Bridge Studio\" was built for the artists and writers of the Ozarks.\nThe lower deck had five compartments fitted with chairs, tables and\nlights. The doors were never locked.\n\nA large crowd attended the dedication of the \"Bridge Studio\" on May 3,\n1931. Dr. Charles H. Brough, World War I governor of Arkansas, was the\nspeaker. The story of the unique bridge and its idealistic purpose was\ntold in newspapers throughout the land. But it was a dream that soon\nfaded. When Sam Leath sold his court in the middle thirties and became\nmanager of the Chamber of Commerce at Harrison, the \"Bridge Studio\" was\ntorn down.\n\nA unique business enterprise in the early days at Eureka Springs was the\nC. H. McLaughlin grocery, said to be one of the cleanest, best equipped\nand best arranged groceries in the United States. Mr. McLaughlin built\n\"a better mouse trap\" and the world made a beaten path to his door.\n\nAnother interesting project, located four miles north of Eureka Springs,\nwas Elk Ranch, operated by Gen. Geo. W. Russ and the Riverside Land and\nLivestock Company from 1902 to about 1917. This ranch contained about\n1,500 acres and the principal enterprise was the breeding of blooded\nhorses. It received its name from the herd of elk that had the run of\nthe ranch. This herd numbered about 130 at one time.\n\nA recent project, built by Mr. and Mrs. A. W. Quigley on their farm four\nmiles south of Eureka Springs is \"Quigley's Castle.\" It has been called\nthe Ozarks' strangest dwelling. It is a large stone house with the outer\nwalls covered with great flat stones set on edge and held together with\ncement. These walls are covered with small, colorful picture rocks and\nfossils which Mrs. Quigley picked up over a period of years. She\nengineered the building of the house and placed the rocks in position.\nThese walls are a geological treasury.\n\nThe inside of Quigley's Castle is a botanical garden and family home.\nThe light enters through eight large picture windows. The rooms are\nbuilt independent of the outer walls with the first floor three feet\nfrom the ground and a four foot space between wall and room. In this\nspace grow many varieties of both tropical and Ozark plants such as\nrubber trees, rose bushes, oleanders and a banana tree. Some of these\nplants grow to a height of twenty-five feet, extending almost to the\nroof. The second floor has a waist-high railing built around the rooms\nto prevent stepping off into space. Small bridges permit passage across\nthe chasm at points of entry.\n\nThe iron dog which once stood on the pedestal in the Basin Circle where\nthe soldier monument now stands is a missing link in the Eureka Springs\nstory. Photographs made from about 1907 to the early thirties show this\ndog. According to the old timers, this iron monster, which weighed 400\npounds, once belonged to a family named Squires and was an ornament in\nthe yard of their home on the hillside at the rear of the Basin Park\nHotel. One Halloween night about 1907 the boys moved the iron dog to the\npark and set it on the pedestal. In bringing it down the path back of\nthe hotel they broke off its tail. The city authorities let it remain on\nthe pedestal until in the thirties, when it disappeared and the soldier\nmonument took its place. No one seems to know what became of the dog,\nbut it is reported that it may be seen in the yard of a home at\nSpringfield, Missouri.\n\nOld-timers will remember \"Old Chapultepec,\" the cannon which was\ncaptured by United States troops during the battle of Chapultepec in the\nMexican War and brought to Eureka Springs by General Powell Clayton when\nhe located here in the early 1880's. In 1933 J. Rosewater had an article\non this old relic in an Arkansas newspaper. Quote:\n\n\"In the yard of the Missouri and North Arkansas railway at Eureka\nSprings, the wood in its once sturdy wheels so decayed they provide a\nvery wobbly support, stands a muzzle-loading cannon, so old that few in\nthis community know its history, or how it came to be in the depot yard.\n\n\"Old-timers said the cannon was called 'Old Chapultepec,' and that it\nwas captured by United States troops during the war with Mexico at the\nbattle of Chapultepec in 1847. It saw service during the Civil war and\nwas left at Little Rock, where Gen. Powell Clayton, Reconstruction\ngovernor of Arkansas after the Civil war, obtained it and brought it to\nEureka Springs in 1882, while making his home here after he ceased to be\ngovernor.\n\n\"For years it was displayed at public places in the city and at one time\nstood on the lawn of the Crescent Hotel. General Clayton gave it to the\ncity and it was moved to the depot, Clayton being interested in the\nMissouri and North Arkansas railway, which was known then as the St.\nLouis and Eureka Springs railway and terminated at Eureka Springs.\nSeveral years later a group known as the Civic Improvement Association\nbuilt an inclosure and a pedestal for the cannon.\n\n\"The cannon stands on a carriage about 3\u00bd feet high. The barrel is\nalmost five feet long and about six inches in diameter at the muzzle.\nNear the breech is a small touch hole where powder was used to fire the\npiece. The cannon can be moved up or down on the carriage, but to aim it\nright or left it is necessary to turn the carriage. Apparently the gun\nwas fired in the general direction of the enemy during battle.\n\n\"Eureka Springs citizens used to pull it to a mountain top and fire it\non July 4 or to celebrate some political victory, but this custom has\nlong since ceased.\"\n\n\"Old Chapultepec\" was sacrificed for scrap metal during World War II and\nat the close of the war the government sent the city a captured German\nhowitzer which was placed in the Basin Circle where it now stands.\n\nOne of the highly prized memorials of our \"Stair-Step-Town\" is the\nKerens Chapel and the St. Elizabeth's Church which is widely known as\n\"the church entered through the steeple.\" This is misleading as the\nentry is through a detached belfry and then down a stone corridor and\nsteps to the chapel and church. The chapel was built as a family\nmemorial in 1907 by Richard Kerens, a St. Louis capitalist, who was one\nof the owners of the Crescent Hotel. Mr. and Mrs. Kerens and their\nchildren, Vincent, Richard, Jr., and Gladys, spent three or four months\nof each year at the Crescent. Mr. Kerens' mother sometimes accompanied\nthem.\n\nOne day Mr. Kerens and his mother were on the promenade at the south end\nof the hotel talking. As they talked a boy approached Mr. Kerens with a\ntelegram. It was a notification from Washington that he had been\nappointed ambassador to Austria. He immediately packed his bags and took\na carriage to the railroad station. As the vehicle crossed the spot\nwhere the chapel now stands he waved good-by to his mother who was\nstanding on the promenade. That was the last time he saw her for she\ndied while he was abroad.\n\nWhen Mr. Kerens returned to this country he began making plans for a\nmemorial to his parents. He wanted it located on the exact spot where he\nlast saw his mother. He secured the land and had the hillside properly\nterraced with a thirty foot reinforcement wall. This wall was set eight\nfeet in the ground and was five feet thick at the base in order to give\nit a solid foundation. The foundation of the chapel went down eighteen\nfeet to make it secure. The structure was dedicated in 1907. Two years\nlater, Mr. Kerens financed the building of St. Elizabeth's Church\nadjacent to the chapel, combining the two buildings. It is one of the\nmost beautiful little churches in America and is visited by thousands of\ntourists each year.\n\nPerhaps the most unusual enterprise in Eureka Springs is the lay-out of\nthe town itself. Was it built haphazardly or with definite plan? Powell\nClayton and other city fathers probably knew, but they long ago passed\nto their rewards. They were inspired men and had great faith in the\nfuture of the fabulous City of Springs.\n\n    [Illustration: St. Elizabeth's Church]\n\n\n\n\n                                  XXXV\n                              THE OUTLOOK\n\n\nWe have had a long look at the past and a peep at the present. What of\nthe future? In my opinion, the outlook for Eureka Springs is good. We\nhave a problem, but its solution is not impossible if we have faith in\nthe town as the founders had. The big problem of Eureka Springs is to\noperate successfully on a strictly tourist income and meet the\ncompetition of other Ozark resorts. We hear complaints that the season\nis too short and the tourist patronage too light. The town was\noriginally intended as a health resort, based upon the curative\nproperties of the water from the springs. This slant is now secondary to\nrecreation. Our chief difficulty is in providing sufficient attractions\nto hold tourists more than a day or two. This problem must be solved or\nwe will gradually fade out of the picture.\n\nThe building of two dams on White River, at Table Rock and at Beaver,\nwill have a great influence on Eureka Springs' economy. These dams will\nprovide large lakes for recreational purposes. They will be within a few\nminutes drive of our city. We now have approximately 150,000 visitors a\nyear but the average stay is only a day or two. When the lakes are\ncompleted, we should have 500,000 or more tourists a year and they\nshould remain an average of five or six days. These figures are based on\nwhat has happened at the Lake of the Ozarks and at Norfork and Bull\nShoals. Of course, it will require extensive advertising to meet\ncompetition. Our facilities for housing and entertaining tourists will\nhave to be enlarged. The population of Eureka Springs should gradually\nincrease during the next few years. With the most scenic location in the\nOzarks, with flowing springs such as other towns do not have, with\nnearness to two lakes with the best of fishing and water sports, it is\nnot extravagant to visualize the population of Eureka Springs as doubled\nwithin a few years.\n\nAppropriations have been made to start Table Rock Dam and the contract\nhas been let. Work started on November 2nd and will continue four or\nfive years. It is estimated that the building of this structure will\nboost the region's economy at least $50,000,000. Of course, Branson,\nMissouri will profit most for the dam will be located eight miles above\nthe town, but other communities of the region will benefit also. The\nheadwaters of the reservoir will reach within a few miles of Eureka\nSprings.\n\nBeaver Dam has been approved by both houses of Congress, but\nappropriations have not yet been made. If these appropriations are made\nnext year, work should get started by 1956 and the structure completed\nabout the same time as Table Rock. The Beaver Dam will be located about\nten miles southwest of Eureka Springs and it will be a big factor in\npromoting the growth of the community.\n\nFor a balanced economy a resort town needs a few small industries. With\nthe coming of the lakes it should be possible to locate a few factories\nhere that will provide substantial pay rolls. These industries should\nharmonize with the recreational background. Homecrafts should be\nencouraged.\n\nThe unofficial reports of the population of Eureka Springs in the 1880's\nand 1890's range from 5,000 to 15,000. Old-timers say that the\npopulation peak was reached about the year 1888. The official census\nrecords at the Bureau of Census in Washington do not agree with these\nunofficial reports, being considerably less. It is possible that the\nunofficial count took in people who lived outside the city limits, or\nwho were not permanent residents. At any rate, here is the report from\nthe Bureau of Census:\n\n1880, 3,984--1890, 3,706--1900, 3,572--1910, 3,228--1920, 2,429--1930,\n2,276--1940, 1,770--1950, 1,958.\n\nThese figures show that the town had its largest official population in\n1880, its first year, and gradually decreased, reaching an all-time low\nat the end of the depression in 1940. Then an increase began. The city\nlimits have been extended and a conservative estimate of the population\nat this present time is around 2,100. This increase should go to 3,000\nby 1960, and to 4,000 by 1970. When the town reaches its Centennial in\n1979, it should have a sound economic basis and a population about\ndouble what it is now.\n\n\n\n\n                                FOONOTES\n\n\n[1]The Eureka Springs (Eureka Springs, Arkansas, May 15, 1884) Page 5.\n\n[2]Ibid., Page 8.\n\n[3]The Eureka Springs by W. W. Johnson, M. D., Eureka Springs, Arkansas,\n    1884, pages 6-8.\n\n[4]The Healing Fountain: Eureka Springs, Ark.: A Complete History.\n    Eureka Springs, Arkansas, 1881, page 4.\n\n[5]Volume 1, pages 163-167.\n\n[6]The Healing Fountain: Eureka Springs, Ark. 1881. Pages 3 and 4.\n\n[7](Eureka Springs, Arkansas) 1952 pp. 18-20.\n\n[8]We acknowledge credit to Mr. Sam A. Leath for the historical data of\n    this narrative.\n\n[9]The Eureka Springs, (1881), pp. 10-11.\n\n[10]The material for this story was supplied by the late Louis Hanecke,\n    Sam A. Leath and Steele Kennedy. Mr. Kennedy and others wrote\n    feature articles about it which appeared in Sunday newspapers a few\n    years ago.\n\n[11]The Healing Fountain, Eureka Springs (1881), p. 12.\n\n[12]The Healing Fountain: Eureka Springs, Ark. pp. 22-24.\n\n[13]Pp. V-VIII.\n\n[14]Rayburn's Ozark Guide, No. 33, Summer, 1952, p. 31.\n\n[15]The Healing Fountain: Eureka Springs. p. 7.\n\n[16]Life and Adventures of John Gaskins. p. XII.\n\n[17]Rayburn's Ozark Guide, No. 15, Spring, 1947, pp. 7-10.\n\n[18]See my Ozark Country. pp. 283-286.\n\n    (Note. The tavern operated by the uncle of the James boys was\n    located at the spot now occupied by the Phillips 66 station and\n    grocery on U. S. Highway 62.)\n\n[19](New York), 1952. pp. 42-43.\n\n[20]Compare with the chapter on Hog Scald in my Ozark Country, pp.\n    244-246.\n\n\n\n\n                          Transcriber's Notes\n\n\n--Silently corrected a few palpable typos.\n\n--Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook\n  is public-domain in the country of publication.\n\n--In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by\n  _underscores_.","title":"The Eureka Springs Story","tradition":"myth-cosmogony","translated_text":null,"word_count":33430}